Chapter 3
Roquefort cheese dressing, bottled _U.S.A._
Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika, mustard, flour and spice oil.
Roquefort de Corse _Corsica, France_
This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening.
Roquefort de Tournemire _France_
Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal Roquefort name.
Rougerets, les _Lyonnais, France_
A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically every variety is made with goat milk.
Rouennais _France_
This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten from October to May.
Round Dutch _Holland_
An early name for Edam.
Rouy, le _Normandy, France_
From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy.
Royal Brabant _Belgium_
Whole milk. Small, Limburger type.
Royal Sentry _Denmark_
Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who haven't yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as an American one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese spread puts its ingredients in finer type than any accident insurance policy: Samsoe (Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, non-fat dry milk solids, cheese whey solids and disodium phosphate.
Ruffec, Fromage de _Saintonge, France_
Fresh; goat.
Runesten _Denmark and U.S.A._
Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film.
Rush Cream Cheese _England and France_
Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are made, but from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses are wrapped and sewed up in to ripen. According to an old English recipe the curds are collected with an ordinary fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, covered with a cloth when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer and set this on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then increase the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily until the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow heart-shape baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as follows: Add one cup new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed cream. Dissolve in this one teaspoon of fine sugar and one tablespoon common rennet or thirty drops of Hauser's extract of rennet. Let it remain in a warm place until curd sets. Rush and straw mats are easily made by cutting the straw into lengths and stringing them with a needle and thread. The mats or baskets should not be used a second time.
S
Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost _Sweden_
Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with whiskey.
Saanen _Switzerland_
Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the finest cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also known as Hartkäse, Reibkäse and Walliskäse, it came to fame in the sixteenth century and has always fetched an extra price for its quality and age. It is cooked much dryer in the making, so it takes longer to ripen and then keeps longer than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds and the eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for ripening is six years, but some take nine.
Sage, or Green cheese _England_
This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is in the U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening to milk by the method described in Chapter 4.
Saint-Affrique _Guyenne, France_
This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of Roquefort, lives up to its reputation by turning out a toothsome goat cheese of local renown.
We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most of the host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped abroad.
Saint-Agathon _Brittany, France_
Season, October to July.
Saint-Amand-Montrond _Berry, France_
Made from goat's milk.
Saint-Benoit _Loiret, France_
Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to the salt rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It ripens in twelve to fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about six inches in diameter.
Saint-Claude _Franche-Comté, France_
Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a half pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before salting and is then eaten fresh or put away to ripen.
Saint-Cyr _see_ Mont d'Or.
Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or _see_ Mont d'Or.
Saint-Florentin _Burgundy, France_
A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July.
Saint-Flour _Auvergne, France_
Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses.
Saint-Gelay _Poitou, France_
Made from goat's milk.
Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint Gervais _see_ Pots de Crème.
Saint-Heray _see_ La Mothe.
Saint-Honoré _Nivernais, France_
A small goat cheese.
Saint-Hubert _France_
Similar to Brie.
Saint-Ivel _England_
Fresh dairy cream cheese containing _Lactobacillus acidophilus_. Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with _Bacillus Bulgaricus._
Saint-Laurent _Roussillon, France_
Mountain sheep cheese.
Saint-Lizier _Béarn, France_
A white, curd cheese.
Saint-Loup, Fromage de _Poitou and Vendée, France_
Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September
Saint-Marcellin _Dauphiné, France_
One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by 3/4 inches, weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to December. Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially a goat cheese.
Saint-Moritz _Switzerland_
Soft and tangy.
Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre _Auvergne, France_
Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses.
Saint-Olivet _see_ Chapter 3.
Saint-Pierre-Pouligny _see_ Pouligny-Saint-Pierre.
Saint-Reine _see_ Alise.
Saint-Rémy, Fromage de _Haute-Saône, France_
Soft Pont l'Evêque type.
Saint-Stefano _German_
Bel Paese type.
Saint-Winx _Flanders, France_
The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products.
Sainte-Anne d'Auray _Brittany, France_
A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks.
Sainte-Marie _Franche-Comté, France_
A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name.
Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine _France_
Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valençay.
Salamana _Southern Europe_
Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, to ripen. It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on bread, or to mix with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge.
Salame _France_
Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common in Italy, from Provolone down, and now--both as salami and links--it has became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout America.
Salers, Bleu de _France_
One of the very good French Blues.
Saligny _Champagne, France_
White cheese made from sheep's milk.
Saloio _Lisbon, Portugal_
An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short cylinder, 1-1/2 to two inches in diameter, weighing a quarter of a pound. Made near the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms.
Salonite _Italy_
Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago.
Saltee _Ireland_
Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The same as Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as white as its name implies.
Salt-free cheese, for diets
U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkäse.
Samsö _Denmark_
Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is the pet cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book.
Sandwich Nut
An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or Neufchâtel.
Sapsago _see_ Chapter 3.
Sardegna _Sardinia_
A Romano type made in Sardinia.
Sardinian _Sardinia, Italy_
The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy.
Sardo _Sardinia, Italy_
Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine. There is also a Pecorino named Sardo.
Sarraz or Sarrazin _Vaud, Switzerland_
Roquefort type.
Sassenage _Dauphiny, France_
Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a French trio of Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of which are made with the three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and sheep. A succulent fermented variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated.
Satz _Germany_
Hard cheese made in Saxony.
Savoy, Savoie _France_
Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy.
Sbrinz _Argentine_
Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type.
Scanno _Abruzzi, Italy_
Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened rind, deep yellow interior.
Scarmorze or Scamorze _Italy_
Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear from being made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied together to hang from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or in the home kitchen. Fine when sliced thick and fried in olive oil. A specialty around Naples. Light-tan oiled rind, about 3-1/2 by five inches in size. Imitated in Wisconsin and sold as Pear cheese.
Schabziger _see_ Chapter 3.
Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese) _Germany_
Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful.
Schamser, or Rheinwald _Canton Graubünden, Switzerland_
Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six pounds.
Schlickermilch
This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder, sour milk "waddle" cheese.
Schlesische Sauermilchkäse _Silesia, Poland_
Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on straw-covered shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open latticed sheds in summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to ripen in a cellar three to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week.
Schlesischer Weichquarg _Silesia, Poland_
Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100° for a short time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-four hours, then kneaded and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand cheese odor develops.
Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck _German_
This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a favorite of his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an aristocratic Limburger that served as a model for Liederkranz.
Schmierkäse
German cottage cheese that becomes smearcase in America.
Schnitzelbank Pot _see_ Liederkranz, Chapter 4.
Schoenland _German_
Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land."
Schützenkäse _Austria_
Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces and wrapped in tin foil.
Shottengsied _Alpine_
A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps.
Schwarzenberger _Hungary and Bohemia_
One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to ripen.
Schweizerkäse _Switzerland_
German for Swiss cheese. (_See_ Emmentaler.)
Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese _Denmark_
A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is nothing wonderful.
Select Brick _see_ Chapter 12.
Selles-sur Cher _Berry, France_
A goat cheese, eaten from February to September.
Sénecterre _Puy-de-Dôme, France_
Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1-1/2 pounds.
Septmoncel _France_
Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, goat and sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by some, and next to Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk triplets with Gex and Sassenage.
Serbian _Serbia_
Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a kettle of milk over an open fire. After the rennet is added, the curd stands for an hour and is separated from the whey by being lifted in a cheesecloth and strained. It is finally put in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it is salted, then covered each day with whey for eight days and finally with fresh milk for six.
Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. It is semisoft.
Serbian Butter _see_ Kajmar.
Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain Range) _Portugal_
The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in Portugal. Other milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. The milk is coagulated by an extract of thistle or cardoon flowers in two to six hours. It is ripened in circular forms for several weeks and marketed in rounds averaging five pounds, about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside is pleasantly oily and delightfully acid.
Sharp-flavored cheese
U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano Fecorino, Old Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval.
Shefford _see_ Chapter 2.
Silesian _Poland and Germany_
White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see Schlesischer.)
Sir cheeses
In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr means cheese. Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk and has small eyes or holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to both American Brick and Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France.
Sir Iz Mjesine _Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_
Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over an open fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, breaking up the curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by hand over the fire. Pressed into forms eight inches square and two inches thick, it is dried for a day and either eaten fresh or cut into cubes, salted, packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen.
Sir Mastny _Montenegro_
Fresh sheep milk.
Sir Posny _Montenegro_
Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also answers to the names of Tord and Mrsav.
Sir, Twdr _see_ Twdr Sir.
Sir, Warshawski _see_ Warshawski Syr.
Siraz _Serbia_
Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow.
Skyr _Iceland_
The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between Devonshire cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. It is very well liked and filling, so people are apt to take too much. A writer on the subject gives this bit of useful information for travelers: "It is not advisable, however, to take coffee and Skyr together just before riding, as it gives you diarrhea."
Slipcote, or Colwick _England_
Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is put in forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When firm it is placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or two, and when it is taken from the leaves the skin or coat becomes loose and easily slips off--hence the name. In the middle of the eighteenth century it was considered the best cream cheese in England and was made then, as today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire.
Smältost _Sweden_
Soft and melting.
Smearcase
Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used in America for cottage cheese.
Smoked Block _Austria_
A well-smoked cheese in block form.
Smoked Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella Affumicata.
Smoked Szekely _Hungary_
Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked.
Smokelet _Norway_.
A small smoked cheese.
Soaked-curd cheese _see_ Washed-curd cheese.
Sorbais _Champagne, France_
Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown rind. Full flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste and square shape, but smaller.
Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga
Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan.
Soumaintrain, Fromage de _France_
Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy.
Soybean _China_
Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often developed with a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a regular cheese. But our occidental kind with animal milk and rennet is never eaten by Chinese and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver.
Spalen or Stringer _Switzerland_
A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from the vessel in which five or six are packed and transported together.
Sperrkäse _see_ Dry.
Spiced _International_
Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice, to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes the name of the spice: Kuminost or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, Nokkelost and Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; whole black pepper Pepato, etc.
Spiced and Spiced Spreads _U.S.A._
Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less than 1-1/2 ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese.
Spiced Fondue _see_ Vacherin Fondu. _France_
Spitz Spitzkase _Germany_
Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced, Limburger-like. _see_ Backsteiner.
Sposi _Italy_
Soft; small; cream.
Spra _Greek_
Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made principally from sheep milk.
Stängenkase _Germany_
Limburger type.
Stein Käse _U.S.A._
Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after the old German original.
Steinbuscher-Käse _German_
Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms, reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at home but little known abroad.
Steppe _Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark_
German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and mellow, it tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for export, as well as in Germany and Austria for home consumption.
Stilton _see_ Chapter 3.
Stirred curd cheese _U.S.A._
Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed younger.
Stracchino _Italy_
Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, rich and pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, never grated. A fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading variety. See in Chapter 3. Also see Certoso Stracchino.
Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored member of this distinguished family.
Stravecchio _Italy_
Well-aged, according to the name. Creamy and mellow.
Stringer _see_ Spalen.
Styria _Austria_
Whole milk. Cylindrical form.
Suffolk _England_
An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet milk" cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular anywhere, it has stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its smell but for its flinty hardness.
"Hunger will break through stone walls and anything except a Suffolk cheese."
"Those that made me were uncivil For they made me harder than the devil. Knives won't cut me; fire won't sweat me; Dogs bark at me, but can't eat me."
Surati, Panir _India_
Buffalo milk. Uncolored.
Suraz _Serbia_
Semihard and semisoft.
Sveciaost _Sweden_
A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to match Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three qualities: full cream, 3/4 cream, and half cream. Soft; rich; ready to eat at six weeks and won't keep past six months. A whole-hearted, whole-milk, wholesome cheese named after the country rather than a part of it as most _osts_ are.
Sweet-curd _U.S.A._
Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and the curd cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. When ripe, however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual Cheddar made by the granular process.
Swiss _U.S.A._
In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New Galrus, Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch bugs gobbling their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have been at it ever since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic cheese, has been their standby, and only in recent years these Wisconsin Schweizers have had competition from Ohio and other states who turn out the typical cartwheels, which still look like the genuine imported Emmentaler.
Szekely _Transylvania, Hungary_
Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes smoked. This is the type of foreign cheese that set the popular style for American processed links, with wine flavors and everything.
T
Taffel, Table, Taffelost _Denmark_
A Danish brand name for an ordinary slicing cheese.
Tafi _Argentina_
Made in the rich province of Tucuman.
Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de _Périgord, France_
Very small and tasty goat cheese.
Taleggio _Lombardy, Italy_
Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type.
Tallance _France_
Goat.
Tamie _France_
Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced not far away.
Tanzenberger _Carinthia, Austria_
Limburger type.
Tao-foo or Tofu _China, Japan, the Orient_
Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This is then handled in the same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is.
Teleme _Rumania_
Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days.
Terzolo _Italy_
Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter.
Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure, Moor's Head _France_
Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam.
Tête de Moine, Monk's Head _France_
A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, summer Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called Bellelay.
Tête de Mort _see_ Fromage Gras for this death's head.
"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie" _Scotland_
Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the Scottish rhyme that exposes it:
The first love token ye gae me Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie. O wae be to the tempting cheese, The tempting cheese of Fyvie, Gat me forsake my ain gude man And follow a fottman laddie.
Texel
Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands.
Thenay _Vendôme, France_
Resembles Camembert and Vendôme.
Thion _Switzerland_
A fine Emmentaler.
Three Counties _Ireland_
An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most of the Irish cheese.
Thuringia Caraway _Germany_
A hand cheese spiked with caraway.
Thyme _Syria_
Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme--both French: Fromage Fort II, Hazebrook II.
Tibet _Tibet_
The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country Tibet, are of sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all sides, with holes to string them through the middle, fifty to a hundred on each string. They suggest Chinese strings of cash and doubtless served as currency, in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (_See under_ Money.)
Tignard _Savoy, France_
Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel.
Tijuana _Mexico_
Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track town.
Tillamook _see_ Chapter 4.
Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called Ragnit _Germany_
This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to American Brick. Made of whole milk, with many small holes that give it an open texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is stronger and coarser.
Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, and Canadian--even Swiss--imitations.
The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in flavor; a good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial dallying."
Tilziski _Yugoslavia_
A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter.
Tome de Beaumont _France_
Whole cow's milk.
Tome, la _Auvergne, France_
Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Rôche, Salers, etc.
Tome de Chèvre _Savoy, France_
Soft goat cheese.
Tome de Savoie _France_
Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane.
Tomelitan Gruyère _Norway_
Imitation of French Gruyère in 2-1/2 ounce packages.
Topf or Topfkäse _Germany_
A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it is flaky.
Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano _Tuscany, Italy_
Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a table cheese.
Toscanello _Tuscany, Italy_
A smaller edition of Toscano.
Touareg _Berber, Africa_
Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd is then dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried for ten days or placed by a fire for six, with frequent turning. Very hard and dry and never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber tribes.
Tour Eiffel _Berry, France_
Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque label and trademark for a brand of Camembert.
Touloumisio _Greece_
Similar to Feta.
Tournette _France_
Small goat cheese.
Tourne de chèvre _Dauphiné, France_
Goat cheese.
Trappe, la, or Oka _Canada_
Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its Canadian monastery.
Trappist _see_ Chapter 3.
Trappist _Yugoslavia_
Trappist Port-Salut imitation.
Trauben (Grape) _Switzerland_
Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine and so named for the grape.
Travnik, Travnicki _Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia_
Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and occasionally skim milk. More than a century of success in Europe, Turkey and adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and Vlasic.
When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type when aged is characteristically oily and sharp.
Traz os Montes _Portugal_
Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles nostalgically named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is oily, some of it a bit muttony, but none of it at all tallowy.
Trecce _Italy_
Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh.
Triple Aurore _France_
Normandy cheese in season all the year around.
Troo _France_
Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January.
Trouville _France_
Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of superior quality.
Troyes, Fromage de _see_ Barberey and Ervy.
Truckles _England_
No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety like Blue Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle or trundle bed. On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door to door singing for a handout:
Pray, dame, something, An apple or a dumpling, Or a piece of Truckle cheese Of your own making.
No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar put up in loaves.
Tschil _Armenia_
Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil.
Tuile de Flandre _France_
A type of Marolles.
Tullum Penney _Turkey_
Salty from being soaked in brine.
Tuna, Prickly Pear _Mexico_
Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by boiling and straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear fruit to cheeselike consistency. It is chocolate-color and sharp, piquantly pleasant when hard and dry. It is sometimes enriched with nuts, spices and/or flowers. It will keep for a very long time and has been a dessert or confection in Mexico for centuries.
Tuscano _Italy_
Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan.
Twdr Sir _Serbia_
Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste. Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to Brick or Limburger.
Twin Cheese _U.S.A._
Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay, Wisconsin.
Tworog _Russia_
Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese bread called Notruschki.
Tybo _Denmark_
Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk.
Tyrol Sour _German_
A typical Tyrolean hand cheese.
Tzgone _Dalmatia_
The opposite number of Tzigen, just below.
Tzigenkäse _Austria_
Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty; originated in Dalmatia.
U
Urda _Rumania_
Creamy; sweet; mild.
Uri _Switzerland_
Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds.
Urseren _Switzerland_
Mild flavored. Cooked curd.
Urt, Fromage d'
Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country.
V
Vacherin _France and Switzerland_
I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery rind, soft interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six by twelve inches in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. When fully ripe it is almost a cold version of the great dish called Fondue. Inside the hard-rind container is a velvety, spicy, aromatic cream, more runny than Brie, so it can be eaten with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on bread. The local name is Tome de Montague.
II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e."
Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced Emmentaler, for the original cheese is made, and ripened about the same as the Swiss classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin.
Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du _Andorra, France_
Sheep milk.
Valdeblore, le _Nice, France_
Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese.
Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay _Touraine, France_
Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to December. This was a favorite with Francis I.
Valio _Finland_
One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process Swiss cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export Association, Helsinki, Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real cheese is.
Valsic _Albania_
Crumbly and sharp.
Varalpenland _Germany_
Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and smell.
Varennes, Fromage de _France_
Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy.
Västerbottenost _West Bothnia_
Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent, almost bitter taste.
Västgötaost _West Gothland, Sweden_
Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty to thirty pounds.
Vendôme, Fromage de _France_
Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being ripened under ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold mostly in Paris.
Veneto, Venezza _Italy_
Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp.
Vic-en-Bigorre _France_
Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May.
Victoria _England_
The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford.
Ville Saint-Jacques _France_
Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May.
Villiers _France_
Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne.
Viry-vory, or Vary _France_
Fresh cream cheese.
Viterbo _Italy_
Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, _Cynara Scolymus_. Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino family.
Vize _Greece_
Ewe's milk; suitable for grating.
Void _Meuse, France_
Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger.
Volvet Kaas _Holland_
The name means "full cream" cheese and that--according to law--has 45% fat in the dry product (_See_ Gras.)
Vorarlberg Sour-milk _Greasy_
Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk.
Vory, le _France_
Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit Suisse.
W
Warshawski Syr _Poland_
Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland.
Warwickshire _England_
Derbyshire type.
Washed-curd cheese _U.S.A._
Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any abnormal flavors.
Wedesslborg _Denmark_
A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully ripened.
Weisschmiere _Bavaria, Germany_
Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four months.
Weisslacker, White Lacquer _Bavaria_
Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in cylinders and rectangles, 4-1/2 by 4 by 3-1/2, weighing 2-1/2 pounds. One of Germany's finest soft cheeses.
Welsh cheeses
The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the ages. Welsh "cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild Caerphilly was famous at one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same delicate melting sensuousness that is found in the poems of John Keats.
"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no longer available, at least under that name. This cheese was so called because it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old church that had fallen into ruins. Often enough the cheeses would be inscribed with such wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From _My Wales_ by Rhys Davies.)
Wensleydale _England_
I. England, Yorkshire. Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June to September. It is put up in the same cylindrical form as Stilton, but smaller. The rind is corrugated from the way the wrapping is put on.
II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from January through the Spring, skipping the season when the greater No. I is made (throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and winter.
Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse _West Prussia_
Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda.
West Friesian _Netherlands_
Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored antiquity of it is preserved in the anonymous English couplet:
Good bread, good butter and good cheese Is good English and good Friese.
Westphalia Sour Milk, or Brioler _Germany_
Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg yolk is mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. Then the richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls or rolls of about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours before being put down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is due partly to the seasonings and partly to the curd being allowed to putrify a little, like Limburger, before pressing.
This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It is so soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to Tilsit and Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" inn where it was perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well over a century ago.
The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the name Briol.
Whale Cheese _U.S.A._
In _The Cheddar Box, _Dean Collins tells of an ancient legend in which the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be milked; and he poses the possible origin of some waxy fossilized deposits along the shore as petrified whale-milk cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after milking the whales.
White, Fromage Blanc _France_
Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten fresh, with or without salt.
White Cheddar _U.S.A._
Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar. Green Bay brand is a fine example of it.
White Gorgonzola
This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (_See_ Gorgonzola.)
White Stilton _England_
This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag.
Whitethorn _Ireland_
Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except that it is colored.
Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch _Schleswig-Holstein, Germany_
Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at Itzehoe.
Wiltshire or Wilts _England_
A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (_See_ North Wilts.)
Wisconsin Factory Cheeses _U.S.A._
Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating by the age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or sharp." American Cheddar requires from eight months to a year to ripen properly, but most of it is sold green when far too young.
Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss.
Withania _India_
Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of rennet from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania berries. This names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately, it becomes acrid with age.
Y
Yoghurt, or Yogurt _U.S.A._
Made with _Bacillus bulgaricus_, that develops the acidity of the milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel.
York, York Curd and Cambridge York _England_
A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which are becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type is too rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which it is cured, for local consumption.
Yorkshire-Stilton _Cotherstone, England_
This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age a fine internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a general favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung.
York State _U.S.A._
Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars.
Young America _U.S.A._
A mild, young, yellow Cheddar.
Yo-yo _U.S.A._
Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped like a yo-yo.
Z
Ziegel _Austria_
Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months.
Ziegenkäse _Germany_
A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk. Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse.
Ziger
I. This whey product is not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are flavored with cider and others with vinegar. There is also a whey bread.
II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk instead of whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small cakes.
Zips _see_ Brinza.
Zomma _Turkey_
Similar to Caciocavallo.
Zwirn _see_ Tschil.
Index of Recipes
American Cheese Salad, 128 Angelic Camembert, 120 Apple and Cheese Salad, 130 Apple Pie à la Cheese, 119 Apple Pie Adorned, 119 Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, 119 Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, 110 au Gratin Eggs, 125 Potatoes, 125 Tomatoes, 125
Blintzes, 111 Brie or Camembert Salad, 128
Camembert, Angelic, 120 Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, 122 Cheddar Omelet, 135 Cheese and Nut Salad, 128 Cheese and Pea Salad, 130 Cheese Cake, Pineapple, 117 Cheese Charlotte, 133 Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, 119 Cheese Custard, 118 Cheese Pie, Open-faced, 118 Cheese Sauce, Plain, 131 Cheese Waffles, 112 Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, 137 Chicken Cheese Soup, 127 Cottage Cheese Pancakes, 112 Christmas Cake Sandwiches, 120 Cold Dunking, 133 Custard, Cheese, 118
Dauphiny Ravioli, 109 Diablotins, 135 Dumpling, Napkin, 112 Dunking, Cold, 133
Eggs au Gratin, 125
Flan au Fromage, 119 Fondue à l'Italienne, 84 All-American, 85 au Fromage, 90 Baked Tomato, 89 Brick, 92 Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, Quickie, 91 Cheddar Dunk Bowl, 93 Cheese, 92 Cheese, and Corn, 92 Cheese and Rice, 91 Chives, 88 Comtois, 88 Corn and Cheese, 92 Neufchâtel Style, 82 100% American, 90 Parmesan, 86 Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, 91 Rice, and Cheese, 91 Sapsago Swiss, 86 Tomato, 89 Tomato Baked, 89 Vacherin-Fribourg, 88 Fritters, Italian, 109 Fritto Misto, Italian, 137
Garlic on Cheese, 110 Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, 129 Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127
Italian Asparagus and Cheese, 110 Italian Fritters, 109 Italian Fritto Misto, 137 Italian-Swiss Scallopini, 108
Little Hats, Cappelletti, 108
Meal-in-One Omelet, A, 135 Miniature Pizzas, 107
Napkin Dumpling, 112 Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, 108
Omelet Cheddar, 135 Meal-in-One, 135 Parmesan, 135 Tomato, 136 with Cheese Sauce, 136 Onion Soup, 126 Onion Soup au Gratin, 126 Open-faced Cheese Pie, 118
Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, 112 Parmesan Omelet, 135 Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, 131 Pfeffernüsse and Caraway, 134 Pineapple Cheese Cake, 117 Piroghs, Polish, 137 Pizza, 106 Cheese, 107 Dough, 106 Miniature, 107 Tomato Paste, 107 Polish Piroghs, 137 Potatoes au Gratin, 125 Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, 137 Puffs Breakfast, 100 Cheese, New England, 100 Cream Cheese, 100 Danish Fondue, 100 Fried, 99 New England Cheese, 100 Parmesan, 99 Roquefort, 99 Three-in-One, 98
Rabbit After-Dinner, 55 All-American Succotash, 77 American Woodchuck, 63 Anchovy, 70 Asparagus, 68 Basic No. 1 (with beer), 49 No. 2 (with milk), 50 Blushing Bunny, 63 Border-hopping Bunny, 60 "Bouquet of the Sea," 69 Buttermilk, 76 Celery and Onion, 67 Chipped Beef, 66 Cream Cheese, 75 Crumby, 70 Crumby Tomato, 71 Curry, 76 Danish, 77 Devil's Own, The, 65 Dr. Maginn's, 54 Dried Beef, 66 Dutch, 72 Easy English, 78 Eggnog, 77 Fish, Fresh or Dried, 69 Fluffy, Eggy, 64 Frijole, 60 Gherkin, 71 Ginger Ale, 76 Golden Buck, 59 Golden Buck II, 59 Grilled Sardine, 69 Grilled Tomato, 65 Grilled Tomato and Onion, 65 Gruyère, 73 Kansas Jack, 66 Lady Llanover's Toasted, 52 Latin-American Corn, 67 Mexican Chilaly, 64 Mushroom-Tomato, 67 Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 Original Recipe, Ye, 57 Oven, 58 Oyster, 68 Pink Poodle, 74 Pumpernickel, 72 Reducing, 75 Roe, 69 Rum Tum Tiddy, 61 Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, 62 Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, 62 Running, 63 Sardine, Grilled, 69 Sardine, Plain, 69 Savory Eggy Dry, 75 Scotch Woodcock, 63 Sea-food, 68 Sherry, 73 Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 Smoked Cheddar, 70 Smoked fish, 70 South African Tomato, 61 Spanish Sherry, 74 Stieff Recipe, The, 51 Swiss Cheese, 73 Tomato, 61 Tomato and Onion, Grilled, 65 Tomato, Crumby, 71 Tomato, Grilled, 65 Tomato Soup, 62 Tomato, South American, 61 Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, 59 Yale College, 59 Yorkshire, 58 Ramekins à la Parisienne, 103 Casserole, 105 Cheese I, 101 Cheese II, 102 Cheese III, 102 Cheese IV, 103 Frying Pan, 105 Morézien, 104 Puff Paste, 105 Roquefort-Swiss, 104 Swiss-Roquefort, 104 Ravioli, Dauphiny, 109 Roquefort, Champagned, 122 Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, 130 Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, 129
Salad American Cheese, 128 Apple and Cheese, 130 Brie, 128 Camembert, 128 Cheese and Nut, 128 Cheese and Pea, 130 Gorgonzola and Banana, 129 Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese, 129 Swiss Cheese, 129 Three-in-One Mold, 128 Sandwiches Alpine Club, 141 Boston Beany, Open-face, 141 Cheeseburgers, 141 Deviled Rye, 142 Egg, Open-faced, 142 French-fried Swiss, 142 Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, 142 He-man, Open-faced, 143 International, 143 Jurassiennes, or Croûtes Comtoises, 143 Kümmelkäse, 143 Limburger Onion, or Catsup, 143 Meringue, Open-faced, 144 Neufchâtel and Honey, 144 Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, 148 Oskar's Ham-Cam, 144 Pickled Camembert, 145 Queijo da Serra, 145 Roquefort Nut, 145 Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, 145 Tangy, 146 Toasted Cheese, 148 Unusual--of Flowers, Hay and Clover, 146 Vegetarian, 146 Witch's, 147 Xochomilco, 147 Yolk Picnic, 147 Sauce Cheese, 131 Mornay, 131 Parsleyed Cheese, 131 Sauce Mornay, 131 Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, 108 Schnitzelbank Pot, 37 Soufflé Basic, 95 Cheese-Corn, 96 Cheese Fritter, 98 Cheese-Mushroom, 97 Cheese-Potato, 97 Cheese-Sea-food, 97 Cheese-Spinach, 96 Cheese-Tomato, 96 Corn-Cheese, 96 Mushroom-Cheese, 97 Parmesan, 95 Parmesan-Swiss, 96 Potato-Cheese, 97 Sea-food-Cheese, 97 Spinach-Cheese, 96 Swiss, 96 Tomato-Cheese, 96 Soup Chicken Cheese, 127 Onion, 126 Onion, au Gratin, 126 Supa Shetgia, 133 Spanish Flan--Quesillo, 136 Straws, 133 Stuffed Celery, 132 Supa Shetgia, 133 Swiss Cheese Salad, 129
Three-in-One Mold, 128 Tomato Omelet, 136 Tomatoes au Gratin, 125
Vatroushki, 111
Waffles, Cheese, 112
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
* * * * *
Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign lands and enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, returned to New York and summed them all up in this book.
Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School and entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment when a number of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy state began teaching their students how to hole an Emmentaler.
After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to Munich, Bob celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book called _Let There Be Beer!_ and then decided to write another about Beer's best friend, Cheese. But first he collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose on _The Wine Cookbook_, still in print after nearly twenty-five years. This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's dozen food-and-drink books, including: _America Cooks, 10,000 Snacks, Fish and Seafood_ and _The South American Cookbook_.
For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio de Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that, from 1907 to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories and serials under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of his first books, _What Happened to Mary_, became a best seller and was the first five-reel movie. This put him in _Who's Who_ in his early twenties.
In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of years spent in collecting books and bibelots throughout the Orient, he settled down in Paris with the expatriate group of Americans and invented the Reading Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his _Words_ and Harry Crosby printed _1450-1950_ at the Black Sun Press, while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own imprint Roving Eye Press, that turned out _Demonics; Gems, a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding_ and _Readies for Bob Brown's Machine_ with contributions by Gertrude Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell _et al._
The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade later he returned to Brazil that had long been his home away from home. There he wrote _The Amazing Amazon_, with his wife Rose, making a total of thirty books bearing his name.
After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed their mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New York where he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village of his free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working library in a score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis of a mail-order book business in which he specializes today in food, drink and other out-of-the-way items.
[Compiler's Notes: Moved what was page 1 of project past title page, removed publisher's copyright information from page 3. Removed references to Introduction, as it was omitted from the book project.]