Chapter 4

Take a Calves head, cleane it and wash it very well, put it a boyling till it be three quarters boyled, then cut off the flesh from the bones, and cut it in peices as big as Walnuts. Blaunch the Tongue and cut it in slices, take a quart of Oysters parboil'd and bearded, take the yolks of twelve Eggs, put some thin slices of bacon among the meat, and on the top of the meat, when it is in the Pye cut an Onion small, and put it in the bottome of your Pye, season it with Pepper, Nutmeg, Mace, and Salt, make your Coffin to your meat what fashion you please. Let it bake an hour and a half, put butter on the bottome and on the top of your Pye before you close it, put a little water in before you put it into the Oven, when you draw it out take off the Lid, and put away all the fat on the top and put in a leer of thick butter, Gravy of Mutton, a Lemon pared and sliced with two or three Anchoves dissolved. So stew these together, and cut your Lid in handsome peices, and lay it round the Pye, so serve it.

_To make Creame with Snow._

Take three Pints of Creame, and the whites of seven or eight Eggs and strain them together, and a little Rose-water, and as much Sugar as will sweeten it, then take a sticke as big as a childs Arme, cleave one end of it a crosse, and widen your peices with your finger, beat your Cream with this sticke, or else with a bundle of Reeds tyed together, and rowl between your hand standing upright in your Creame, now as the Snow ariseth take it up with a spoon in a Cullender that the thin may run out, and when you have sufficient of this Snow; take the Cream that is left, & seeth it in the Skellet, and put thereto whole Cloves, stickes of Cinnamon, a little Ginger bruised, and seeth it till it be thick, then strain it, and when it is cold put it into your Dish, and lay your Snow upon it.

_To make minced Pies._

Take a large Neats tongue, shread it very well, three pound and a halfe of Suet very well shread, Currans three pound, halfe an ounce of beaten Cloves and Mace, season it with Salt when you think't fit, halfe a preserved Orange, or instead of it Orange Pils, a quarter of a pound of Sugar, and a little Lemon Pill sliced very thin, put all these together very well, put to it two Spoonfull of Verjuyce, and a quarter of a Pint of Sack, _&c_.

_To dry Neats Tongues._

Take Bay salt beaten very fine, and Salt-Peeter of each a like, and rub your Tongues very well with that, and cover all over with it, and as it wasts put on more, and when they are very hard and stiffe they are enough, then rowle them in Bran, and dry them before a soft fire, and before you boyle them, let them lie one night in Pompe Water, and boyle them in the same sort of water.

_To make Jelly of Harts Horn._

Take six ounces of Hart-Horn, three ounces of Ivory both finely carped, boyle it in two quarts of water in a Pipkin close covered, and when it is three parts wasted, you may try it with a Spoon if it will be jelly, you may know by the sticking to your Lips, then straine it through a jelly bag; season it with Rose-water, juyce of Lemons and double refined Sugar, each according to your Taste, then boyle altogether two or three walmes, so put in the Glasse and keep for your use.

_To make Chickens fat in four or five dayes._

Take a pint of French Wheat and a pint of Wheat flower, halfe a pound of Sugar, make it up into a stiff Paste, and rowle it into little rowles, wet them in warme Milk, and so Cram them, and they will be fat in four or five dayes, if you please you may sow them up behind one or two of the last dayes.

_To make Angelot._

Take a Gallon of Stroakings and a Pint of Creame as it comes from the Cow, and put it together with a little Rennet; when you fill, turne up the midst side of the Cheese-fat, fill them a little at once, and let it stand all that day and the next, then turn them, and let them stand til they will slip out of the Fat, Salt them on both sides, and when the Coats begin to come on them, neither wipe nor scrape them, for the thicker the Coat is the better.

_A Persian Dish._

Take the fleshly part of a Leg of Mutton stript from the fat and sinews, beat that well in a Morter with Pepper and Salt, and a little Onyon or Garlick water by it selfe, or with Herbs according to your taste, then make it up in flat cakes and let them be kept twelve houres betweene two Dishes before you use them, then fry them with butter in a frying Pan and serve them with the same butter, and you will find it a dish of savory meat.

_To roast a shoulder of Mutton in blood._

When your sheepe is killed save the blood, and spread the caule all open upon a Table that is wet, that it may not stick to it; as soone as you have flead your sheepe, cut off a shoulder, and having Tyme picked, shred and cut small into some of your blood, stop your shoulder with it, inside and outside, and into every hole with a Spoone, put some of the Blood; after you have put in the Tyme, then lay your Shoulder of Mutton upon the caule and wrap that about it, then lay it into a Tray, and pour all the rest of the blood upon it; so let it lie all night, if it be in Winter, you may let it lie twenty foure hours, then roast it.

_To roast a Leg of Mutton to be eaten cold._

First take so much Lard as you thinke sufficient to Lard your Leg of Mutton withall, cut your Lard in grosse long Lardors; season the Lard very deep with beaten Cloves, Pepper, Nutmeg, and Mace, and bay salt beaten fine and dryed, then take Parsley, Tyme, Marjoram, Onion, and the out-rine of an Orange, shred all these very small, and mix them with the Lard, then Lard your Legge of Mutton therewith, if any of the Herbs and Spice remaine, put them on the Legge of Mutton; then take a silver Dish, lay two stickes crosse the Dish to keepe the Mutton from sopping in the Gravy and fat that goes from it, lay the Legge of Mutton upon the stickes, and set it into an hot Oven, there let it roast, turne it once but baste it not at all, when it is enough and very tender, take it forth but serve it not till it be throughly cold; when you serve it, put in a saucer or two of Mustard, and Sugar, and two or three Lemons whole in the same dish.

_To roast Oysters._

Take the greatest Oysters you can get, and as you open them, put them into a Dish with their own Liquor, then take them out of the Dish, and put them into another, and pour the Liquor to them, but be sure no gravell get amongst them; then set them covered on the fire, and scald them a little in their owne Liquor, and when they are cold, draw eight or ten Lards through each Oyster; season your Lard first with Cloves, Nutmeg beaten very small, Pepper; then take two woodden Lard Spits, and spit your Oysters thereon, then tye them to another spit, and roast them. In the roasting bast them with Anchovy sauce, made with some of the Oyster Liquor, and let them drip into the same dish where the Anchovy sauce is; when they be enough, bread them with the crust of a roul grated on them, and when they be brown, draw them off, then take the sauce wherewith you basted your Oysters, and blow off the fat, then put the same to the Oysters, wring in it the juyce of a Lemon, so serve it.

_To make a Sack Posset._

Take a quart of Cream and boyle it very well with Sugar, Mace, and Nutmeg, take half a pint of Sack, and as much Ale, and boyle them well together with some Sugar, then put your Cream into your Bason to your Sacke, then heat a pewter dish very hot, and cover your Bason with it, and set it by the fire side, and let it stand there two or three houres before you eat it.

_Another Sack Posset._

Take eight Eggs, yolks and whites, and beat them well together, straine them into a quart of Cream, season them with Nutmeg and Sugar, put to them a pint of Sack, stir them altogether, and put them into your Bason, and set them in the Oven no hotter then for a Custard, let it stand two hours.

_To make a Sack Posset without Milk or Cream_.

Take eighteen Eggs wites and all, taking out the treads, let them be beaten very well, take a pint of Sack and a quart of Ale boyled, and scum it, then put in three quarters of a pound of Sugar and a little Nutmeg, let it boyle a little together, then take it off the fire stirring the Eggs still, put into them two or three Ladle-fulls of drink, then mingle all together and set it on the fire, and keepe it stirring till you finde it thick, then serve it up.

_To make a stump Pye._

Take a Leg of mutton, one pound and a half of the best Suet, mince both small together, then season it with a quarter of a pound of Sugar, and a small quantity of salt, and a little cloves & mace, then take a good handful of Parsly half as much Tyme, and mince them very small, and mingle them with the rest; then take six new laid Eggs and break them into the meat and worke it well together, and put it into the past; then upon the Top put Raisins, Currans and Dates a good quantity, cover and bake it, when it is baked, and when it is very hot, put into it a quarter of a Pint of White wine Vinegar, and strow Sugar upon it, and so serve it.

_To make Mrs._ Leeds _Cheese Cakes._

Take six quarts of milk and ren it prety cold, and when it is tender come drayn from it your Whey in a strainer, then hang it up till all the Whey be dropt from it, then presse it, change it into dry cloaths till it wet the cloth no longer, then beat it in a stone Morter till it be like butter, then straine it through a thin strayner, mingle it with a pound and a halfe of butter with your hands, take one pound of Almonds, and heat them with Rosewater till they are like your Curd, then mingle them with the yolks of twenty Eggs and a quart of Cream, two great Nutmegs, one pound and a half of sugar, when your Coffins are ready and going to set in the Oven; then mingle them together, let your Oven be made hot enough for a Pigeon Pye, and let a stone stand up till the scorcthing be past, then set them in, half an hour will bake them well, your Coffins must be made with Milk and Butter as stiffe as for other Past, then you must set them into a pretty hot Oven, and fill them full of Bran, and when they are harded, take them out, and with a Wing, brush out the Bran, they must be pricked.

_To make Tarts called Taffaty Tarts._

First wet your Past with Butter and cold Water, and rowle it very thin, also then lay them in layes, and between every lay of Apples strew some Sugar, and some Lemon Pill, cut very small, if you please put some Fennell-seed to them; then put them into a stoak hot Oven, and let them stand an hour in or more, then take them out, and take Rose-water and Butter beaten together, and wash them over with the same, and strew fine Sugar upon them; then put them into the Oven again, let them stand a little while and take them out.

_To make Fresh Cheese._

Take three pints of raw Cream and sweeten it well with Sugar, and set it over the fire, let it boyle a while, then put in some Damask-Rose-Water, keep it still stirring least it burn too, and when you see it thickned and turned, take it from the fire, and wash the strainer and Cheesefat with Rose-water, then rowl it too and fro in the Strainer to draine the Whey from the Curd, then take up the Curd with a spoon and put them into the Fat, let it stand till it be cold, then put it into the Cheese Dish with some of the Whey, and so serve it up.

_To make Sugar Cakes or Jumbals._

Take two pound of flower, dry it and season it very fine, then take a pound of Loaf Sugar, and beat it very fine, and searce it, mingle your Flower and Sugar very well, then take a pound and a halfe of sweet Butter and wash out the Salt, and breake it into bits with your Flower and Sugar, then take yolks of foure new laid Eggs, and four or five spoonfuls of Sack, and four spoonfuls of Creame; beat all these together, then put them into your Flower, and knead them to a Past, and make them into what fashion you please, and lay them upon Paper or Plates, and put them into the Oven, and be carefull of them, for a very little thing bakes them.

_For Jumbals you must only adde the whites of two or three Eggs._

_To hash a Shoulder of Mutton._

Take a Shoulder of Mutton and slice it very thin till you have almost nothing but the Bone, then put to the meat some Claret wine, a great Onion, some Gravy of Mutton, six Anchoves, a hand full of Capers, the tops of a little Tyme, mince them very well together, then take nine or tenne Egges, the juyce of one or two Lemons, to make it tart, and make leere of them, then put the meat all in a Frying-Pan over the fire till it be very hot; then put in the leere of Eggs and soak altogether over the fire till it be very thick; then boyle your bone, and put it on the top of your meat being Dished, Garnish your Dish with Lemons, serve it up.

_To dresse Flounders or Playce with Garlick and Mustard._

Take Flounders very new, and cut all the Fins and Tailes, then take out the Guts and wipe them very clean, they must not be at all washt, then with your Knife scorch them on both sides very grosely; then take the Tops of Tyme and cut them very small, and take a little Salt, Mace, and Nutmeg, and mingle the Tyme and them together, and season the Flounders; then lay them on the Grid-iron and bast them with Oyle or Butter, let not the fire be too hot, when that side next the fire is brown; turn it, and when you turn it, bast it on both sides till you have broyl'd them brown, when they are enough make your sauce with Mustard two or three Spoonfull according to discretion, six Anchoves dissolved very well, about halfe a pound of butter drawn up with garlick, vinegar, or bruised garlick in other vinegar, rubb the bottome of your Dish with garlick. So put your sauce to them, and serve them, you may fry them if you please.

_A Turkish Dish._

Take fat of Beefe or Mutton cut in thin slices, wash it well, put it into a pot that hath a close cover, then put into it a good quantity of clean pick'd rice, skim it very well; then put into it a quantity of whole Pepper, two or three whole Onyons; let all this boyle very well, then take out the Onyon and dish it in Sippets, the thicker it is the better.

_To dresse a Pyke._

Cut him in peices, and strew upon him salt and scalding vinegar, boyle him in water and White wine, when he is boyling put in sweet Herbs, Onyon, Garlick, Ginger, Nutmeg, and salt; when he is boyled take him out of the Liquor, and let him drayn, in the mean time beat Butter and Anchoves together, and pour it on the fish, squeezing a little Orange and Lemon upon it.

_To dresse Oysters._

Take Oysters and open them, and save the Liquor, and when you have opened so many as you please, adde to this Liquor, some White-wine, wherein you must wash your Oysters one by one very clean, and lay them in another Dish; then strain to them that mixed wine and Liquor wherein they were washed, adding a little more Wine to them with an Onion divided with some Salt and Pepper, so done, cover the Dish and stew them till they be more then halfe done; then take them and the Liquor, and pour it in to a Frying-Pan, wherein they must fry a pretty while, then put into them a good peice of sweet butter, and fry them therein so much longer; in the mean time you must have beaten the yolks of some Eggs, as four or five to a quart of Oysters; These Eggs must be beaten with some Vinegar, wherein you must put some minced Parsly and Nutmeg finely scraped, and put therein the Oysters in the Pan, which must still be kept stirring least the Liquor make the Eggs curddle, let this all have a good warme on the fire, and serve it up.

_To dresse Flounders._

Flea of the black skin, and scowre the Fish over on that side with a Knife, lay them in a dish, and poure on them some Vinegar, and strew good store of Salt, let them lie for halfe an houre; in the mean time set on the fire some water with a little White-Wine, Garlick, and sweet Herbs as you please, putting into it the Vinegar and Salt wherein they lay, when it boyles put in the biggest fish, then the next till all be in; when they are boyled, take them out and drain them very well, then draw some sweet butter thick, and mix with it some Anchoves shred small, which being dissolved in the Butter, poure it on the fish, strewing a little sliced Nutmeg, and minced Oranges and Barberries.

_To dresse Snails._

Take Snailes, and put them in a Kettle of water, and let them boyle a little, then take them out, and shake them out of the shels into a Bason; then take some Salt and scoure them very well, and wash them in warme water, untill you find the slime cleane gone from them; then put them into a Cullender and let them draine well, then mince some sweet hearbs, and put them into a Dish with a little Pepper and Sallet-Oyle together, then let them stand an hour or two; then wash the shels very well and dry them, and put into every shell a Snail, and fill up the shell with Sallet-Oyle and herbs, then set them on a gridiron upon a soft fire, and so let them stew a little while, and dish them up warm and serve them up.

_To dresse pickle fish._

Wash them well while they are in the shell in salt water, put them into a Kettle over the fire with out water; and stirre them till they are open, then take them out of their shels, and wash them in hot water and salt, then take some of their owne liquor that they have made in the Kettle, a little white wine, butter, vinegar, Spice, Parsley; let all these boyle together, and when it is boyled, take the yolk of three or four Eggs and put into the broth. Scollops may be dressed on this manner or broiled like oysters with Oyle or juyce of Lemons.

_To fricate Beefe Pallats._

Take Beefe Pallats after they be boyled very tender, blaunch and pare them clean, season them with fine beaten cloves Nutmeg, Pepper, Salt and some grated bread; then have some butter in a frying Pan, put your pallats therein, and so fricate them till they be browne on both sides, then take them forth and put them on a dish, and put thereto some Gravy of Mutton, wherein two or three Anchoves are dissolved, grate in your sauce a little Nutmeg, wring in the juyce of a Lemon, so serve them.

_A Spanish Olio._

Take a peice of Bacon not very fat, but sweet and safe from being rusty, a peice of fresh beefe, a couple of hoggs Eares, and foure feet if they can be had, and if not, some quantity of sheeps feet, (Calves feet are not proper) a joynt of Mutton, the Leg, Rack, or Loyne, a Hen, halfe a dozen pigeons, a bundle of Parsley, Leeks, and Mint, a clove of Garlick when you will, a small quantity of Pepper, Cloves, and Saffron, so mingled that not one of them over-rule, the Pepper and Cloves must be beaten as fine as possible may be, and the Saffron must be first dryed, and then crumble in powder and dissolved apart in two or three spoonfuls of broth, but both the Spices and the Saffron may be kept apart till immediately before they be used, which must not be, till within a quarter of a houre before the Olio be taken off from the fire; a pottle of hard dry pease, when they have first steept in water some dayes, a pint of boyl'd Chesnuts: particular care must be had that the pot wherein the Olio is made, be very sweet; Earthen I thinke is the best, and judgement is to be had carefully both in the size of the Pot, and in the quantity of the Water at the first, that so the Broth may grow afterwards to be neither too much nor too little, nor too grosse, nor too thin; thy meat must be long in boyling, but the fire not too fierce, the Bacon, the Beef, the Pease, the Chesnuts, the Hogs Eares may be put in at the first. I am utterly against those confused Olios into which men put almost all kinds of meats and Roots, and especially against putting of Oyle, for it corrupts the Broath, instead of adding goodnesse to it. To do well, the Broth is rather to be drunk out of a Porringer then to be eaten with a spoon, though you add some smal slices of bread to it, you wil like it the worse. The Sauce for thy meat must be as much fine Sugar beaten smal to powder, with a little Mustard, as can be made to drink the Sugar up, and you wil find it to be excellent, but if you make it not faithfully and justly according to this prescript, but shall neither put Mace, or Rosemary, or Tyme to the Herbs as the manner is of some, it will prove very much the worse.

_To make Metheglin._

Take all sorts of Herbs that are good and wholesome, as Balme, Mint, Fennell, Rosemary, Angelica, wilde Tyme, Isop, Burnet, Egrimony, and such other as you think fit; some Field Herbs, but you must not put in too many, but especially Rosemary or any strong Hearb, lesse then halfe a handfull will serve of every sort, you must boyle your Herbs and straine them, and let the Liquor stand till to Morrow and settle them, take off the clearest Liquor, two Gallons and a halfe to one Gallon of Honey, and that proportion as much as you will make, and let it boyle an houre, then set it a cooling as you doe Beere, when it is cold take some very good Ale Barme, and put into the bottome of the Tubb a little and a little as they doe Beere, keeping backe the thicke setling, that lyeth in the bottome of the Vessell that it is cooled in, and when it is all put together, cover it with a Cloth, and let it worke very neere three dayes, and when you mean to put it up, skim off all the Barme clean, put it up into the Vessell, but you must not stop your Vessell very close in three or four dayes, but let it have all the vent, for it will worke, and when it is close stopped, you must looke very often to it, and have a peg in the top to give it vent; when you heare it make a noyse, as it will do, or else it will breake the Vessell; sometime I make a Bag and put in good store of Ginger sliced, some Cloves and Cinnamon, and boyl it in, and other times I put it into the Barrel and never boyle it, it is both good, but Nutmeg and Mace do not well to my Tast.

_To make a Sallet of Smelts._

Take halfe a hundred of Smelts, the biggest you can get, draw them and cut off their Heads, put them into a Pipkin with a Pint of White wine, and a Pint of White wine Vinegar, an Onion shred a couple of Lemons, a Race of Ginger, three or foure blades of Mace, a Nutmeg sliced, whole Pepper, a little Salt, cover them, and let them stand twenty foure houres; if you will keep them three or four dayes, let not your Pickle be to strong of the Vinegar, when you will serve them, take them out one by one, scrape and open them as you do Anchoves, but throw away the bones, lay them close one by one, round a Silver dish, you must have the very utmost rind of a Lemon or Orange so small as grated bread and the Parsley, then mix your Lemon Pill, Orange and Parsley together with a little fine beaten Pepper, and strew this upon the dish of Smelts with the meat of a Lemon minced very small, also then power on excellent Sallet Oile, and wring in the juyce of two Lemons, but be sure none of the Lemon-seed be left in the Sallet, so serve it.

_To Roast a Fillet of Veal._

Take a Fillet of Beefe which is the tenderest part of the Beast, and lieth only in the inward part of the Surloyne next to the Chine, cut it as big as you can, then broach it on a broach not too big, and be carefull you broach it not thorow the best of the meat, roast it leasurely and baste it with sweet butter. Set a Dish under it to save the Gravy while the Beefe is roasting, prepare the Sauce for it, chop good store of Parsley with a few sweet Herbs shred small, and the yolks of three or foure Eggs, and mince among them the pill of an Orange, and a little Onyon, then boyle this mixture, putting into it sweet butter, Vinegar, and Gravy, a spoonfull of strong broth, when it is well boyled, put it into your beef, and serve it very warm, sometimes a little grosse Pepper or Ginger into your sauce, or a pill of an Orange or Lemon.

_To make a Sallet of a cold Hen or a Capon._