CHAPTER XXXII

THE END OF THE PILGRIMAGE

I CAN imagine no greater contrast to the quiet and peaceful valley of the Boyne than was Belfast that night. The Orangemen had already begun to celebrate King Billy's victory, and were practising for the great demonstration of the twelfth, when England was to be shown, once for all and in a manner unmistakable, that Ulster was in earnest.

As I came up on the tram from the station, we ran into a mob of people, marching along in the middle of the street and yelling at the tops of their voices, and we had to wait until they had passed. I asked a fellow-passenger what was going on, and he answered with a little smile that the Orange societies had all been given new banners that night and were flinging them to the breeze for the first time. I asked him who had given the banners, and he said he didn't know.

At the hotel, I found that Betty had sought the sanctuary of our room, and was watching the tumult from the window. She said it reminded her of the French Revolution, and the comparison was natural enough. The especial scene she had in mind, I think, was that draggled procession of shrieking fishwives which escorted the king and his family in from Versailles.

I do not know how many Orange societies there are at Belfast, but we saw at least a dozen march past that night, each of them headed by a band or drum-corps, and each with a bright new Orange banner flaunting proudly in the breeze. Each banner bore a painted representation of some Orange victory; King Billy on his white horse fording the Boyne being a favourite subject; and the banners were very large and fringed with gold lace and most expensive-looking; and before them and beside them and behind them trailed a mob of shrieking girls and women and ragamuffin boys, locked arm and arm half across the street, breaking into a clumsy dance now and then, or shouting the lines of some Orange ditty. There were many men in line, marching along more or less soberly; but these bacchantes outnumbered them two to one. They blocked the street from side to side, stopped traffic, and conducted themselves as though they had suddenly gone mad.

Presently all the societies, which had been collecting at some rendezvous, marched back together, with the mob augmented a hundred-fold, so that, looking down from our window, we could see nothing but a mass of heads filling the street from side to side--thousands and thousands of women and girls and boys, all vociferous with a frenzied intoxication--and in the midst of them the thin stream of Orangemen trudging along behind their banners.

I went down into the street to view this demonstration more closely, for it was evident that here at last was the spirit of Ulster unveiled for all to see; but at close quarters much of its impressiveness vanished, for the mob was composed largely of boys and girls out for a good time, and rejoicing in the unaccustomed privilege of yelling and hooting to their hearts' content. A few policemen would have been quite capable of dealing with that portion of it. But the men marching grimly along behind their banners were of different stuff; they were ready, apparently, for any emergency, ready for a holy war; and I wondered if their leaders, who had sown the wind so blithely as part of the game of politics, were quite prepared to reap the whirlwind which might follow.

A man with whom I fell into talk said there would be a procession like this every evening until the twelfth; but I should think the drummers would be exhausted long before that. I have described the contortions of the Dublin drummers, but they are nowhere as compared with the drummers of Belfast. And, though about a fourth of Belfast's population is Catholic, you would never have suspected it that night, for there was no disorder of any kind, except the wild disorder of the Orangemen and their adherents. I suspect that, in Belfast, wise Catholics spend the early evenings of July at home.

* * * * *

We went out, next morning, to Ardoyne village, to see one of the few establishments where linen is still woven by hand. A beautiful old factory it is, with the work-rooms grouped around an open court which reminded us of the Plantin-Moretus at Antwerp; and the Scotchman in charge of it took us through from top to bottom. I have forgotten how many looms there are--some thirty or forty; and it was most interesting to watch the weavers as they shot the shuttle swiftly back and forth with one hand and worked the heavy beam with the other, while with their feet they controlled the pattern. Nearly all the weavers were old men, and our guide told us it was growing more and more difficult to replace them, because hand-weaving had been so largely displaced by machine-work that it was rapidly becoming a lost art. Few young men were willing to undertake the long apprenticeship which was necessary before they could become expert weavers, and he foresaw the time when hand-weaving would cease altogether.

Then we went upstairs, where the pattern mechanism is mounted above each loom; and though I understood it, in a way, after long and careful explanation, I am quite incapable of explaining it to anybody else, except to say that the threads which run down to the loom below are governed by a lot of stiff cards laced together into a long roll, and cut with many perforations, so that the roll looks something like the music-rolls used in mechanical piano-players.

Last of all we were shown some of the finished product, and very beautiful it was, strong as iron--far stronger than machine-woven linen, for the shuttle can be thrown by hand more often to the inch than is possible by machine; and some of the patterns, too, were very lovely; one, in especial, from the Book of Kells, the interwoven Celtic ornamentation, the symbol of eternity.

Of course we talked about Home Rule, and our Scotch host, who was evidently a devoted Orangeman, was very certain Ulster would fight before she would acquiesce. If the fight went against her, he prophesied that no Protestant industry which could get out of Ireland would stay to be taxed out of existence by a Dublin Parliament, and he said that many of the great factories had already secured options on English sites, and were prepared to move at any time.

I remarked that it seemed to me the wiser plan would be to wait and see how Home Rule worked before plunging into revolution; then, if it was found that Ulster was really oppressed, it would be time enough for her army to take the field. And I told him something of what I had seen and heard in the south and west of Ireland--that, among all the people I had talked with, not one had expressed himself with any bitterness toward Ulster, and that many had said frankly that the leaders of the Irish people would be largely Protestant in the future, just as they had been in the past. But he was unconvinced, and very gloomy over the outlook.

We came away finally, and took a last look about Belfast--at the busy streets, the bright shops, the humming factories, the clattering foundries; and then the hour of departure came. The jarvey who drove us to the boat was a jovial, loquacious son of the Church, with good-natured laughter for Orange excesses.

"Why should we Catholics interfere wid them?" he asked. "We'd only be gettin' our heads broke, and all the papers would be full of the riots in Ulster. Sure, haven't I seen them before this treatin' a small fight at the corner as though it was a revolution? No, no; we'll just stay quiet and let them have their fun. It does good to them and no harm to us. They'll settle down again when the Home Rule bill is passed, and then we'll be Irishmen all, please God!"

From the bottom of my heart I said I hoped so. Indeed, I can think of no better watch-word to replace "No Surrender!" and curses on King Billy and the Pope than "Irishmen All!"

* * * * *

There are few busier ports than Belfast, and we made our way down to the quay through a tangle of drays that would have done no discredit to the New York water-front; and at last we found our boat and got aboard. And presently the ropes were cast off, and we steamed slowly down the river, between long lines of lofty scaffolding shrouding the hulls of scores of mighty ships, one day to play their part in the commerce of the world.

And then we were in Belfast Lough, with the grim keep of Carrickfergus looming on the western shore; and then the bay widened, the shores dropped away, and we headed out across the white-capped waters of the Irish Sea. For long and long in the distance, we could see the purple masses of the Antrim hills, growing fainter and ever fainter, until at last they merged into the purple of the western sky. And so we looked our last upon the Island of the Saints.

THE END

INDEX

Abbeys, 21-22, 99-102, 108-109, 110-112, 193-196, 199, 229-233, 266, 269-271, 280, 285-291, 346-347, 379-382, 405, 422-423, 442-443, 550-558

Adare, 226-236

Aghadoe, 180, 198-200, 201

Aideen, 23

Aileach, 465, 480

Allen, Hill of, 93

Allen, Lough, 242

Allingham, William, 428-430

Allua, Lough, 141, 144

America, Irish Idea of, 24, 170-174

Annals of the Four Masters, The, 442, 465

Antrim, County, 489, 521, 530, 534, 564

Antrim, Earl of, 489, 495-496

Antrim, Glens of, 491, 495, 499

Arbutus Island, 186

Archdeckan, John, 136

Architecture, see Irish Architecture

Ardilaun, Lord, see Guinness

Ardoyne, 561-563

Armada, The, 416, 485

Armagh, 103, 536, 550

Arran, Earl of, 441

Art, see Irish Art

Ashford House, 347-348

Assaroe, Abbey, 422-423, 429

Asylums, 180, 240, 266, 375, 526

Athenry, 266, 268-272, 292

Athlone, 207, 209, 252, 259, 265, 272-285, 292, 390, 454, 456

Auburn, see Lissoy

Avoca, Vale of, 61

Avonbeg, The, 60

Avonmore, The, 59, 60

Baedeker, Karl, 385

Baird, Sir David, 509-510

Baker, Henry, 450, 460

Balbriggan, 85

Ballina, 351

Ballintoy, 487

Ballintra, The, 432

Ballycastle, 486, 489-490

Ballysadare, 377

Ballyshannon, 419-431, 445

Balor of the Evil Eye, 384

Banishment to Connaught, The, 331-333

Bank of Ireland, 13

Bann, The, 447, 474, 536

Bantry Bay, 139, 151, 159

Barnesmore, Gap of, 444

Beggars, 109-110, 144, 173-174, 183-184, 186, 283-284, 310, 364, 375, 412, 426-427

Belfast, 89, 205, 427, 469, 479, 501, 502, 503-519, 530, 532-533, 534, 535, 536, 559-564

Belfast Lough, 502, 564

Bird Hill, 251

Birmingham, George A., see Hannay, J. A.

Black Lough, 184

Black Valley, The, 185

Blackrock, 100

Blackwater, The, 138, 164, 203

Blarney Castle, 115-127, 190, 205

Bogs, 93, 267-268, 315-316, 370, 490-491

Book of Kells, see Kells

Boru, Brian, see Brian Boru

Boycott, Captain Charles C., 346

Boyd, Hugh, 489-490

Boyne, The, 85, 221, 454, 537, 538-540, 549, 559

Boyne, Battle of the, 31, 85, 274, 453-454, 460, 534, 538-540

Bray, 59

Breffni, Prince of, see O'Rourke, Tiernan

Brian Boru, 18-20, 34, 41, 100, 103, 107, 204, 208, 251-259, 273, 288, 427

Bridge End, 461, 462

Brigid, see St. Brigid

Brooke, Sir Basil, 439-441

Brown Valley, The, 165

Bruce, Edward, 208, 269, 501, 502, 537

Brugh-na-Boinne, 540-550

Bundoran, 405, 412-419

Burgo, Richard de, 271, 293, 354, 447

Burial, Ancient Irish, 38, 540-544

Bushmills, 480

Cairns, 345-346, 377-78, 384, 392, 417, 536, 540-550

Callanan, Jeremiah, 149

Cannera, 248

Cape Clear, 161

Cappoquin, 138

Car, see Jaunting-car

Carleton, Will, 421

Carlingford, 21, 479

Carnach, Conal, 377

Carnlough, 500-501

Carrick-a-Rede, 487-488

Carrickfergus, 502, 564

Carrowmore, 384, 385

Carson, Sir Edward, 469, 471

Casey, John Keegan, 278-279

Cashel, Rock of, 49, 94, 102-112, 148, 178, 229, 253, 254, 279

Cashels, 103, 406-408, 461, 462-467, 536

Castlebar, 375

Castleconnell, 242-251, 263-264

Castlemaine, 191

Castles, 116-125, 207, 230-234, 243, 265, 268-269, 283-285, 353-354, 402-403, 438-441, 479-480

Catholic Emancipation, 218, 460

Cavan, 545

Celbridge, 92

Celtchair, 524

Celtic Crosses, see Crosses

Champneys, Arthur, 110

Charles I, 86, 441, 447, 449

Charles II, 86, 210, 448

Charleville, 113-114, 461

Children, 32, 98, 106, 109-110, 320-321, 358-360

Church of Ireland, 30, 75, 411

Churches, 21-22, 30-32, 34-37, 87, 131-132, 138, 200, 206, 213, 233-234, 255-257, 303, 459-460, 519-524

Ciaran, see St. Kieran

Civilization, Ancient Irish, see Irish Civilization, Ancient

Claddagh, The, 298-300

Clandonnell, see MacDonnell

Clanricarde, Earls of, 269

Clara, Vale of, 60

Clare, Abbey, 266

Clare, Richard de, see Strongbow

Clare, County, 209, 258, 265-266

Claremorris, 375-377, 535

Cleeve, The Messrs., 215, 236-239

Clew Bay, 371-372

Clifden, 324-325, 331, 370

Climate, 28, 60, 128, 161-162, 179, 358, 398, 415

Clonard, 406

Clonbur, 345

Clondalkin, 42-57, 67, 75, 92

Clonmacnoise, 274, 285-291

Clonmell, Lord, 16

Clontarf, 18-20, 107, 251, 252, 254, 288

Cloyne, 138

Coleraine, 447, 474-476

Colleen Bawn, 417, 420-422

Collooney, 377

Colman, Abbot, 289

Colman's Leap, 187

Columba, see St. Columba

Cong, 339, 345, 350-352, 354, 358

Cong, Abbey of, 39, 290, 346-348

Cong, Cross of, 26, 37, 39-40, 100, 204, 346

Congested Districts Board, 331-336

Conn the Hundred Fighter, 204, 291, 549

Conn, Lough, 351

Connaught, 17, 19, 27, 178, 258, 267, 269, 274, 293, 306, 314-369, 375, 493

Connell of the Hy-Nial, 427-428, 465

Connemara, 200, 292, 293, 300, 314-336, 346, 414, 463, 490

Connemara Marble, 306, 316-318

Constabulary, see Royal Irish Constabulary

Convent Schools, 133-134, 163

Cook's Tours, 177-178, 182, 382-383

Cork, 114-116, 128-138, 139, 147, 149, 151, 174, 205, 214, 331, 352, 454

Cork, County, 19, 162

Cork, Earl of, 32

Cormac, see MacArt or MacCarthy

Cormac's Chapel, 107-108, 148

Corrib, Lough, 39, 304, 314, 346, 347, 348, 350, 351, 352-354

Corrib, River, 298, 300, 303, 314, 347

Cottages, 88, 141-144, 181, 195, 225-226, 320-321, 354-355, 362-363, 384-385, 497

Craigmore, 536

Cratloe, 265

Crime, 55-56, 327-328, 344

Croagh Patrick, 372-373

Cromlechs, 23, 384, 385, 386, 388-392, 417

Cromwell, Oliver, 76, 86-87, 105, 116, 118, 190, 208, 231, 270, 293, 331-332, 448, 470, 538

Cross of Cong, see Cong, Cross of

Crosses, Celtic, 37, 288-289, 351-352, 523, 553-558

Crowe, O'Brien, 351-352

Cuchulain, 377, 537

Cullen, Joe, 434-436

Culmore, 473

Curran, John Philpot, 134

Cushendall, 490, 492, 495, 496, 498-500

Cushendun, 491

Dalcassians, 253

Danes, The 17, 18-20, 22, 33, 34, 44, 50, 65, 66, 130, 147, 199, 204, 207, 242, 252-254, 287-288, 446-447, 465, 522, 536, 541, 542, 555

Dargle, The, 59

Dark Rosaleen, 14-15

Darrow, Book of, 41

Day, Length of Irish, 23, 338, 456-457, 491-492

De Courcy, John, 522-523

De Dananns, The, 346, 384

De Lacy, Hugh, 545

De Vere, Aubrey, 259

Derg, Lough, 207, 219, 242, 252, 258-259, 406, 413

Derry, 76, 397, 443, 446-461, 466, 467-474, 535, 539

Derryclare, 319

Dervorgilla, 35, 219-221, 402, 405-406, 553

D'Esterre, 92

Devil's Bit, The, 94, 106

Devil's Mother Mountain, 340

Diarmuid, 389-391

Dillisk, 296-297, 299

Dollard, James B., 436

Donegal, 413, 431, 432-443, 465

Donegal, County, 388, 427, 428, 440, 444, 466, 486

Donnybrook, 470

Doon, Rock of, 440

Doonas, Falls of, 245-246

Down, County, 519, 530, 536

Downpatrick, 519-532

Dowth, 85, 534, 540-544, 546, 547

Dowth Castle, 544-545

Drogheda, 85-89, 449, 450, 454, 534, 537, 538

Dromahair, 403-406, 488

Druids, The, 44, 542, 543-544, 549

Drummers, 24-25, 561

Dublin, 4-41, 56, 58, 59, 85, 86, 89, 92, 102, 104, 114, 115, 128, 137, 173, 174, 193, 205, 229, 230, 418, 439, 446, 453, 454, 503, 531, 534, 535, 537, 538, 539, 561

Dublin Bay, 17-18, 21

Dublin Castle, 18, 32, 33-34, 74, 327

Dundalk, 537, 538

Dunleary, 137

Dunloe, Gap of, 165, 177, 181-186, 192, 201

Dunluce Castle, 479-480, 485, 488

Dunraven, Earl of, 229, 233-234

Eask, Lough, 444

Eask, River, 438, 444

Education, see Schools

Emigration, 131, 138, 330-331, 418-419, 443-444

Ennis, 265-266

Enniskillen, 412-413, 449, 453

Episcopal Church, see Church of Ireland

Erne, Lough, 413, 414, 420, 427

Erne, River, 414, 417-418, 420, 428-431

Established Church, see Church of Ireland

Eugenius, see St. Eugenius

Eyre, Jane, 303

Famine, 93, 131, 195, 351

Faughart, 501, 537

Ffolliotts, The, 417, 420-422

Fianna, The, 23, 106, 390, 492

Fin Barre, see St. Fin Barre

Fingalla, 443

Finn MacCool, 106-107, 184, 204, 275, 389-391, 483-484, 492

Firbolgs, The, 299-300, 346, 431

Fishing, 169, 178-179, 191, 242-245, 263-264, 303-306, 326, 431

Fitzgibbon, Lord, 237

Fitzstephen, James Lynch, 301-303

Flann, High King of Erin, 288-289, 290

Flax, 445, 488, 519, 535

Flesk, The, 167, 203

Flight of the Earls, The, 440, 447

Flowers, 43, 57, 60, 152, 154, 164-165, 418

Fogha, Fergus, 536

Formorians, The, 384

Foyle, Lough, 466, 472

Foyle, River, 446, 447

Fuchsias, 152-153, 326, 497

Funerals, 194-195

Gaelic, 161, 242, 363, 487, 489

Gaels, The, 293, 300, 384, 466, 540-544

Galtees, The, 106, 113

Galway, 102, 292-313, 314, 317, 331, 351, 352, 445, 455

Game Preserves, 61, 345, 348-349

George II, 14, 105

George IV, 137

George V, 396, 456

Geraldines, see Kildare, Earls of

Giant's Causeway, The, 477, 480-486

Gill, Lough, 219-220, 384, 398-412, 486, 494

Ginkle, Gen. Godert de, 209, 243, 274, 285

Glenaan, 491, 492-496

Glenariff, Vale of, 500

Glenarm, 501

Glendalough, 59, 62-84, 133, 248, 286, 556

Glendining Monument, The, 370-371, 372, 375

Glendun, 491

Glenealy, 62

Glengarriff, 139, 152-162, 174, 326, 382

Goldsmith, Oliver, 274-279

Goold's Cross, 105, 113

Gougane Barra, 139, 145-149

Government, The, 34, 54-55, 74, 79, 104, 327-328, 351, 372

Grainan of Aileach, The, 461, 462-467

Grainne, 107, 389-391

Grattan, Henry, 11

Graves, Alfred Perceval, 432-433

Grazing, 90-91, 93, 335, 419

Griffin, Gerald, 213

Guinness, Sir Benjamin, 30, 344, 345, 346, 347-349

Gwynne, Stephen, 110, 391, 437

Hannay, J. A., 170, 372, 373-374

Heather, 60, 399, 400, 402

Hen Castle, 353-354

Henry II, 33

Henry VII, 229

Henry VIII, 30, 230, 524

Hill of Howth, see Howth

Hinkson, Katherine Tynan, 57

Holy Cross Abbey, 98-102, 178, 440

Holy Wells, 147-148, 245-249, 262, 365, 410-411, 526-531

Home Rule, 12, 20, 56, 77, 82, 83, 89-91, 155-157, 216-218, 236, 404, 419, 467-469, 498, 505-510, 514-516, 529-530, 559-564

Hore Abbey, 110-112

Hospitality, 41, 45-46, 50-57, 95-96, 110, 154-155, 244, 305-309, 354-355, 551-552

Howth, 4, 16-18, 20-23

Howth, Lord, 22-23

Hy Many, 19

Hy-Nial, see Nial, Connell, Owen

Idioms, 46, 66-67, 368-369

Inagh, 319

Inchigeelagh, 141-144

Indian Corn, 154-155, 260, 309

Industrial Depression, 54-55, 212-213, 215-216, 371-372, 404-405, 419, 422-424, 489-490

Inebriety, 5-6, 33, 114, 196-197, 306-307

Inisfallen, 189, 199

Inishowen, 466, 474

Inis-Saimer, 431

Inns, 66-67, 94-98, 164-166, 174-175, 224, 228-229, 242-244, 315, 322, 326, 346, 371, 378-379, 415-416, 433-434, 480-481

Inny, The, 278

Insurance, Workman's, 52, 84, 222-223

Ireland's Eye, 21

Ireton, Gen. Henry, 208

Irish Architecture, 21-22, 101, 103, 107-108, 111-112, 193-196, 199, 231-233, 255-257, 261, 270-271, 285-290, 307-308

Irish Art, 26, 37-41, 288-289, 543, 547-548, 555-558

Irish Brigade, The, 210

Irish Character, 3, 37, 98, 114, 159-161, 196-197, 214-215, 386-389, 393-396, 404, 458-459, 470-471, 475, 532

Irish Civilization, Ancient, 18, 19, 38, 99-100, 204, 286-290, 525-526

Irish Girls, 41, 115, 124, 163-164, 214-215, 315, 323-324

Irish Sea, 1, 21, 35, 59, 220, 495, 500, 501, 564

Jails, 55-56, 240, 266, 375, 473, 525

James II, 36, 208, 210, 449-455, 534, 538-540

Jarvey, The, 29-30, 88, 129, 168, 274-275, 398, 399, 486, 488-489, 500, 563

Jaunting-Car, The, 8, 26-30, 60, 88, 98, 128-130, 400, 486

Johnson, Mrs. Hester, 30-31

Johnson, Lionel, 221, 495

Jones, John Paul, 502

Joyce's Country, 79, 339-357

Kathaleen Ny-Houlahan, 466

Kearney, Kate, 181-182

Keimaneigh, Pass of, 150-151

Kells, Book of, 26, 37, 40-41, 193, 204

Kenmare, 163, 200

Kenmare, Earl of, 198

Kenmare, River, 164, 384

Kenny, Donal, 278-279

Kerry, County, 19, 162, 197

Kevin, see St. Kevin

Kieran, see St. Kieran

Kilcrea Abbey, 140

Kildare, 522

Kildare, Curragh of, 89, 92-93

Kildare, Earls of, 229-231

Killaloe, 207, 242, 248, 250 251-263, 286, 556

Killarney, 138, 139, 165-203, 242, 319, 412, 481

Killary Bay, 326, 369

Killone Abbey, 266

Kilpatrick, 521

Kincora, 251-263, 273

Kingstown, 4, 21

Kinsale, 102, 440, 454

Knocknarea, 377-378, 384, 385, 392

Knocktow, 230

Kylemore, Pass of, 326

Labour Problem, 23-25, 54-55, 61-62, 83-84, 90-91, 281, 330-331, 332-333, 349-350, 468

Labourers' Cottages, 342, 408-410

Lace-making, 133-134, 163, 239

Land League, The, 344, 346, 352, 353

Land Problem, 90-91, 266-267, 330-336, 340-342, 348-350, 353

Landlords, 332-333, 334-336, 345, 349-350, 529

Larne, 499, 501, 502

Layd Church, 499

Leacht-Con-Mic-Ruis, The, 384, 398-402, 405

Leane, Lough, 165

Lee, The, 130, 132, 140, 141, 144, 146

Leenane, 325, 326-338, 339, 352, 357, 358-369, 445

Legends, 48-49, 62-65, 68-69, 70-71, 92-93, 94, 106-107, 117, 120, 126, 136, 146-147, 159-162, 184-185, 187, 188, 190, 194, 199, 219-221, 246-247, 248-249, 275, 286-291, 292-293, 301-303, 346, 351-352, 353-354, 372-373, 377-378, 389-391, 413, 465-466, 483-484, 485, 490, 494-495, 521-522, 549

Leinster, Province, 19

Letterfrank, 326

Lever, Charles, 214, 395, 476

Liffey, The, 5, 18, 33, 59

Limerick, 76, 106, 204-227, 236-242, 243, 251, 252, 254, 264, 265, 274, 402, 454, 531

Limerick, Treaty of, 208-210

Limerick Junction, 113, 204, 254

Limericks, 240

Linen, 518, 519, 561-563

Lir, Children of, 490

Lisbun, 535

Lissoughter, 306, 315-320

Lissoy, 274-279

Lloyd-George, David, 158-159, 474

Loe, The, 184

Londonderry, see Derry

Lord of the Isles, The, 439, 480

Loughs, see name of each

Lover, Samuel, 214

Loyalty, 396-397, 456, 532-533

Ludlow, Gen. Edmund, 190-191

Lundy, Robert, 450, 452

Lurgan, 535

Lynch, James, 301-303

Lyons Hill, 92

MacArt, Cormac, 106-108, 389, 549-550

MacCarthy, Cormac, 103, 116-117, 126, 204

McCarthy, Denis A., 94

McCarthy, Dermot, 117

MacCool or MacCumhal, Finn, see Finn MacCool

MacDonnell, Angus, 480

MacDonnell, Innen Dhu, 439

MacDonnells, The, 491, 499, 502

Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 165, 184, 185

McKeown, R. H., 326-327, 368

MacLiag, 251-252

MacMurrough, Dermot, 35, 219-221, 402

MacNatfraich, Aengus, 49, 107

Maam, 354-355

Maamturk Mountains, 314, 319

Macroom, 139, 140, 382

Magrath, Milar, 104

Mahon, King of Munster, 253-254

Mahony, Francis Sylvester (Father Prout), 118, 132, 136

Mail, 330, 337-338, 496-497

Mallow, 204

Mangan, James Clarence, 14-15, 251

Marconi, Guglielmo, 325

Margy, The, 490

Markets, 98, 200, 294-297, 311

Marriage Contract, 54, 395-396

Mask, Lough, 339, 343-345, 346, 347, 350, 351, 384

Matthew, Father, 206

Mattock, The, 550

Maynooth, 3

Mayo, County, 375, 377

Meath, 19, 543

Meave, 377-378, 392

Meeting of the Waters, The, 60-61

Mellifont, 85, 178, 221, 534, 538, 550-553

Milcho, 521

Milesians, The, see Gaels

Milliken, Richard, 116, 118

Minogue, John, 105-111, 173, 279

Moira, 535

Molua, see St. Molua

Monasterboice, 37, 85, 88, 178, 534, 538, 553-558

Monasteries, 18, 19, 21-22, 65-66, 99-102, 103, 108-109, 110-112, 230-234, 268-271, 285-291, 379-382

Monastic Schools, 19, 38, 104, 268-269, 285-291

Monk, Gen. George, 536

Monkey Trees, 201-202

Monkstown, 136

Moore, George, 374, 543

Moore, Thomas, 14, 19, 60-61, 63-64, 219-220, 221, 248, 406

Mount Melleray, 138

Mountmorris, Lord, 352

Mourne, Lough, 445

Mourne Mountains, 524, 536

Moytura, 346, 384

Moytura, Northern, 384

Muckross Abbey, 193-196, 231-232

Muckross Lake, 165, 201

Muiredach, 556

Munster, 19, 20, 103, 107, 116, 253, 254, 465

Murray, Adam, 450, 460

Murray's Guidebook, 348, 375, 381, 385, 399, 455-456, 461, 502, 525, 526

Nafooey, Lough, 343

Nally, John, 278

National Education Board, The, 74-82

National Gallery of Ireland, The, 15-16

National Museum of Science and Art, The, 15, 37-40, 373

National Schools, see Schools

National University of Ireland, The, 306-307

Nationalists, see Home Rule

Nelson, Horatio, 6, 8, 12, 16

Netterville Institution, The, 545

Newgrange, 85, 534, 546-550

Newry, 536

Nial Garv, 439-440, 442

Nial of the Nine Hostages, 427, 464

Normans, The, 22-23, 33, 35, 38, 65, 130, 199, 207, 208, 220-221, 274, 288, 293, 354, 379-382, 501, 520, 536

O'Brien, Donall, 206, 255

O'Brien, Murtagh, 256, 465

O'Brien, Smith, 11

O'Cahans, The, 476, 480

O'Connell, Daniel, 10, 12, 20, 92, 115, 205, 217, 218, 460

O'Conor, Rory, 39, 290

O'Conor, Turlough, 39, 40, 220

O'Dee, Bishop, 306-307, 352

O'Dohertys, The, 473, 476

O'Donaghue, The, 187, 188, 190

O'Donnell, Hugh, 439

O'Donnell, Hugh Roe, 438, 443

O'Donnell, Red Hugh, 102, 269, 379, 438-440, 442

O'Donnell, Rory, 440

O'Donnells, The, 428, 432, 438-439, 480

O'Duffy, Gilbert and Nicol, 351

O'Echon, Maelisu MacBraddan, 40

O'Flaherty, Rory, 325

O'Flaherty, The, 293, 314, 339, 353-354

O'Gillan, Enoch, 290

O'Hanlon, Redmond, 536

O'Hurley, Dermot, 104

O'Malleys, The, 79, 344, 353-354

O'Neill, Hugh, 208

O'Neill, Owen Roe, 86

O'Neill, Shane, 480

O'Neills, The, 428, 440

O'Reilly, John Boyle, 544-545

O'Reilly, William David, 545

O'Rourke, Tiernan, 35, 219-221, 405-406, 553

O'Rourke's Table, 403

O'Sullivan's Punchbowl, 188

Old Age Pensions, see Pensions

Ormonde, Earl of, 100

Orangemen, 197, 458, 469, 470-471, 475, 506-508, 511, 514-516, 528, 530, 534, 559-564

Oscar, 23, 390

Ossian, 23, 106, 204, 221, 390, 492-495

Oughterard, 323

Owen of the Hy-Nial, 427-428, 464, 465-466, 479-480

Owengarriff, The, 201

Parades, 23-24, 457, 504, 505, 559-560

Parknasilla, 164, 416

Parnell, Charles Stewart, 12, 60, 217-219

Patrick, see St. Patrick

Peat, see Turf

Pembroke, Earl of, see Strongbow

Pensions, 52-54, 196-197, 223

Perrot, Sir John, 480

Pettigoe, 413

Plantation of Ulster, The, 447-448, 476

Pleaskin, 485-486

Poor Relief, 363-368

Portadown, 535, 536

Portrush, 473, 476-477

Port Stewart, 476

Potheen, 181-182, 184

Presbyterians, 75, 486, 506-509, 510-511

Price, Archbishop, 104-105

Priests, 1-3, 56-57, 74-75, 77, 89, 155-161, 217, 305-309, 395

Prout, Father, see Mahony, Francis Sylvester

Queen's College, Galway, 306-307, 352

Queenstown, 115, 136, 137, 138

Quoile, The, 519, 524, 525

Race-meetings, 113-114

Rafferty, Mr., 316-318

Railroads, 42-43, 59, 88-89, 250, 272-273, 415-416, 461-462, 535-536

Rain, 28, 66-67, 73, 111, 161-162, 179, 180-183, 185, 192, 224, 227, 406-408, 431-432

Raleigh, Sir Walter, 16

Rathdrum, 59, 60, 84

Rathlin Island, 489

Raths, 103, 258, 407, 519, 522, 524-526

Recess, 315-325, 416

Red Bay, 500

Red Branch Knights, 524, 537

Red Hugh, 423

Redmond, John, 471

Ree, Lough, 207, 273, 275, 279, 286, 377

Reilly, Willy, 180-181, 417, 420-422

Religion, 75-77, 208-210, 216-217, 257-258, 332-333, 447-455, 458-459, 467-471, 475, 506-509, 510-511, 520-521, 539

Repartee, 58, 68, 278, 500, 539, 554

Roads, 28, 61-62, 158-159

Rock of Cashel, see Cashel

Roe, Henry, 35

Rolleston, T. W., 490

Roman Catholic Church, The, 30, 74-75, 155, 508-509, 520-521

Roscommon, 279

Rosnaree, 549-550

Ross Castle, 177, 186, 190-191

Rosshill, 345

Ross Island, 188-189

Round Towers, 42, 43-45, 65, 83, 103, 109, 199, 288, 553-555

Royal Irish Constabulary, The, 7, 10, 17, 88, 157, 184, 327-329

Ruins, 21-22, 65, 73, 76, 83, 99-112, 115-125, 193-196, 198-200, 229-234, 265-266, 268-271, 285-290, 346-347, 353-354, 379-382, 402-403, 422-423, 438-441, 442-443, 479-480, 499, 536, 550-558

St. Anne Shandon, 131-132

St. Brigid, 92-93, 108, 446, 519, 520, 522, 540

St. Columba, 436, 446, 460, 465, 519, 520, 522

St. Eugenius, 62

St. Fin Barre, 130, 139, 145-149

St. Finian the Leper, 199

St. Kevin, 62-84, 119, 248

St. Kieran, 286-291

St. Mary's Abbey, Howth, 21-22, 230

St. Molua, 259-262, 286

St. Patrick, 30, 34, 38, 39, 48-49, 62, 103, 107, 108, 115, 146, 150, 184, 221, 286, 372, 410, 427, 446, 465, 495, 519, 520-522, 528, 540, 543-544

St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin, 26, 30-32, 35

St. Patrick's Purgatory, 219, 413, 414

St. Petroc, 62

St. Senan, 245-249, 410

Saint-Gaudens, Augustus, 12

Salthill, 309, 311-313

Sarsfield, Patrick, 204, 207, 208-210, 213-214, 237, 258-259, 454, 539

Saul, 521-522

Scarva, 536

Scattery Island, 248-249

Scenery, 42, 43, 59, 60-62, 65-66, 92-94, 99, 106-107, 113, 116, 145-146, 150-152, 162-166, 183-187, 195-196, 243, 266-267, 314-322, 325-326, 343-345, 354, 398-399, 417, 444-445, 466-467, 479, 482-486, 490-492, 535-537

Schomberg, Gen. Frederick Herman, 31-32, 502, 538

Schoolbooks, 359, 360-362

Schools, 46-47, 74-82, 358-363, 510-511

Scotch-Irish, The, 458-459, 479-480, 487, 520, 562-563

Shamrock, The, 46, 47-50, 67, 103, 107, 498

Shannon, The, 106, 205, 207-208, 212-213, 215, 227, 236-237, 240, 242-265, 273, 284, 285, 332, 333, 390, 448

Sheela-na-gig, The, 279-283

Sheen, The, 162

Shrines, see Holy Wells

Side-car, see Jaunting-car

Silken Thomas, see Kildare, Earls of

Slane, 538, 543-544

Slemish, 521

Slievenamon, 94, 106-107, 389

Sligo, 378-385, 392, 396, 406, 411-412, 421, 442

Sligo, County, 377, 428

Sligo, O'Conor, 380

Slums, 9, 32-33, 132, 210-214

Smoking, 2-3, 194-195

Snakes, 111, 146, 184-185, 372-373

Statues, 10, 15, 35-36, 213-214

Stella, see Johnson, Mrs. Hester

Stone Circles, 384, 389, 392, 406-408, 492, 494-495, 546

Strabane, 445-446, 450

Strangford, Lough, 521

Stranorlar, 445

Stranrear, 501

Strongbow, 26, 33, 34, 35-36, 220-221, 288, 447

Struell, 526-531

Suir, The, 99

Sullivan, Timothy, 221-222

Swift, Jonathan, 26, 30-32, 34, 92

Swilly, Lough, 427, 461, 466

Tara, 41, 107, 389, 390, 540, 543-544, 549

Taylor, Jeremy, 524

Tenements, 9, 13, 33, 210-214

Thomond, 251

Thomond, Earl of, 206, 265

Thurles, 94-99, 174

Tillage, 140, 266-267, 340-342

Timony, John, 441-442

Tipperary, Vale of, 90, 93-94, 103, 106, 113, 204

Tomies, The, 184

Tone, Theobald Wolfe, 509

Tonna, Charlotte, 453

Tore Cascade, 201-202

Trams, 16, 17, 28, 309-310

Trinity College, 10, 14, 40-41, 193, 307

Tristram, Sir Almericus, 22-23

Tuam, 2

Tullymongan, 545

Turf, 98, 142, 267-268, 300-301, 355-357, 388, 490-491, 529

Twelve Pins of Bunnabeola, The, 318, 319, 325

Tyrconnell, Earl of, 423, 440, 454

Tyrconnell, Lady, 539

Tyrconnell, Province, 427-428, 447

Tyrone, 427-428, 446, 447, 464, 465, 479

Ulster, 36, 86, 87, 155, 157, 197, 216-217, 424, 448, 449, 453, 455, 458-459, 461, 468-469, 486, 498, 502, 506-518, 521, 522, 529-530, 537, 539, 559-564

Union, Act of, 13, 35

Unionists, see Home Rule

Vanessa, 92

Victoria, Queen, 137, 166, 201, 352, 517

Wages, 61, 84, 90-91, 98, 143, 222, 267-268, 281, 337, 409, 419

Walker, Rev. George, 450-451, 460, 538-539

Warbeck, Perkin, 131

Waterford, 454

Weather, see Climate and Rain

Westmeath, 277, 280, 284

Westport, 369, 370-375, 377, 382, 445, 536

Wicklow, 18, 21, 59, 62

Wild West Films, 24, 396, 532

William III of Orange, 12, 76, 208-210, 294, 449-450, 453-455, 460, 470, 475, 502, 534, 538-540, 559

Wilson, Woodrow, 377, 441-442

Workhouses, 54-56, 84, 87, 143-144, 180, 375, 473

Workman's Insurance, see Insurance

Wyatt, Henry, 16

Youghal, 138

* * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Inconsistent hyphenation has been retained. Obvious punctuation errors have been corrected.

Page 215, "enought" changed to "enough" (enough to meet one)

Page 298, "whereever" changed to "wherever" (have been built wherever)

Page 425, "celebate" changed to "celebrate" (forbidden to celebrate Mass)

Page 517, "visting" changed to "visiting" (which is worth visiting)

Page 576, "Tyrconnel" changed to "Tyrconnell" (Tyrconnell, Province)