Chapter 2

Many weak sugars burn on a clear fire before they come to a degree of crack. In this case sprinkle a little fresh fuel or ashes over the fire and replace the pan again. Should it again catch, repeat the operation nursing it up to the desired degree. Bad boiling sugar is very troublesome. A good plan is to make a rule of straining the batch just after it boils, through a very fine copper wire or hair sieve, this prevents foreign matter such as grit, saw dust or even nails, which is often mixed with the sugar getting into the goods. Keep thermometer when not in use in jar of water standing on the furnace plate by the side of the pan, wash out the jar and fill with cold water every morning; keep the thermometer clean, especially the top part, as the sugar which adheres to it becomes grainy, and might spoil a whole boil. After making many dark candies thoroughly wash the thermometer before putting into a light boil.

In using colors for drops and clear goods, use them in the form of a paste where practicable, then you can mix them in when the boil is on the slab, thus saving your pan; keep the colors damp in jars, look over them every night, and, where necessary, add a little cold water to keep them moist, or the top may get dry and hard, which would make the goods specky. Use a separate piece of stick for each color to rub in with, and be careful not to use too much color; a very little goes a long way with clear boiled goods. Goods are more often spoiled by using too much than too little; more can always be added if the shades are too light, but there is no remedy if you have added too much. When coloring taffies, this must be done in the pan; liquid colors are best; trouble will be saved if used in the following order. Suppose Raspberry, Everton and Lemon taffies were wanted, make the Lemon taffy first, add saffron just before the boil is ready, then the lemon, and pour out; make the Everton taffy next in the same way, add the butter before the lemon; then make the Raspberry. In this arrangement there is no necessity of steaming out the pan. Had the Raspberry taffy been made first, the pan would have to be cleaned out before the Lemon or Everton taffy could have been made, because it would have been red.

Measure the flavors in a graduated glass; wash out the glass frequently, or it will get rancid; weigh the acid and see that it is well ground; if it has become dry and lumpy, rub it down to a powder with a rolling pin or heavy bottle on a sheet of paper before using. In using fruit essences a little powdered tartaric acid throws up the flavor, half the essences will have a better effect. Put the acid on the boil after it has been poured on the slab in a little heap, and pour the essence over it, then thoroughly incorporate the whole.

Use the best oil for the slab with a clean flannel cloth; keep the cloth in a saucer, if it lies about it falls on the floor and picks up dirt and carries it to the pouring plate. When it gets hard or gritty burn it at once and get a new one, or it may be used by mistake and make a mess. We have seen the beauty of a boil spoilt scores of times by using dirty rags and rancid oil. A sugar boiler cannot be too careful in these little details, the success of his work largely depends upon it. It is easy to inaugurate a good system, and much more comfortable to work to it than a slovenly "what shall I do next" sort of a method. Know where to find and put your hand on everything; when the boil is hot there is no time to look for what you require. "A place for everything and everything in its place" should be a practical feature in every boiling shop.

STICKY CANDIES.

Perhaps there is nothing more annoying to the trade than sticky boiled sugars. All clear goods when exposed to the atmosphere will turn damp, especially in wet weather. It is a question of degree, some slightly and some will run almost to syrup; it is impossible to obviate the former but the latter can be prevented. Great care should be used in adding the lowering, whether cream of tartar or glucose, too much of either will cause the goods to run immediately after they are turned out. Weak or inferior sugars, or not sufficient boiling, has also this effect. We know of no reliable agent which will altogether prevent this result but we do know that a careful arrangement of the different proportions, using good sugar and well boiling greatly mitigate, if not altogether prevent the grievance. Goods intended for exposure should contain just sufficient lowering to prevent the boil from growing grainy and boiled right up to the standard. Of course different sugars will carry more or less lowering, but this can be easily tested by the workman. A few experiments will determine the exact quantity for each boil. There is no excuse for drops sticking in bottles when corked, this should not occur, if it does, the fault is in the making; the water has a great deal to do with causing the candies to be sticky. The writer has experienced this in several country places, where the only supply of this indispensable ingredient was drawn from the artesian wells. To look at it, it was all that could be desired--a beautiful, cold, clear and wholesome beverage. Of its chemical constituents I do not pretend to give an opinion, but the drops and other clear boils for which it was used got damp directly after they were exposed, and would have run to a syrup had they not been covered up. The goods keep all right in bottles, but it is very annoying, not to speak of the injury and loss to a business, when this is the position with regard to the water supply. The only remedy we could suggest, and which was very successful, was powdered borax. We used this in the proportion of a teaspoonful to every 14 lbs. of sugar adding it just as the sugar began to boil. Borax has been found useful with any water when making goods to be exposed in the window or on the counters, such as taffies, rocks and clear boiled sugars generally. Where the supply of water, as in most large towns is suitable, given good sugar, cream of tartar or glucose, in proper proportions, and careful boiling up to the standard, the addition of borax is unnecessary and should only be resorted to under special circumstances.

PLAIN TAFFY.

14 lbs. White Sugar. 2 quarts Water. 1/2 ounce Cream Tartar.

PROCESS.--This is an easy and capital recipe to begin with. The process is practically the same as for all other clear goods, but the ingredients being fewer there is little chance of their getting complicated. With a thermometer it is hardly possible to make a mistake, besides it will make the instruction more intelligible: should he not possess this appliance, we must ask that the instructions "How to boil sugar" should be committed to memory, as it would be tedious and a great waste of time and space to keep explaining how to tell the different degrees through which the sugar passes before it comes to the point required for the different goods given in this book. For this and other reasons I will assume the learner to be working with one.

Put the sugar and water in a clean pan, place it on the fire and stir it occasionally till melted; when it comes to the boil add the cream of tartar and put a lid on the pan; allow it to boil in this way for ten minutes, remove the lid and immerse the bottom part of the thermometer in the boiling liquid and allow it to remain in this position until it records 310 degrees, then quickly take out the thermometer, lift off the pan and pour contents into frames, tins, or on a pouring slab, which have been previously oiled. If on a pouring slab, mark the boil into bars or squares, while warm, with a knife or taffy cutter: when quite cold it is ready for sale.

LEMON TAFFY.

14 lbs. White Sugar. 1/2 ounce Cream Tartar. Saffron Coloring. 2 quarts Water. Lemon Flavoring.

PROCESS.--Proceed as directed for plain taffy. When the sugar reaches 305 degrees, add a few drops of saffron color; when it reaches 310 degrees, add a few drops of oil of lemon and pour out immediately into frames or tins; or if on pouring slab, mark out into bars or squares before it gets cold. The pouring slab should be level so that the sheet should be all the same thickness.

BUTTER SCOTCH.

8 lbs. White Sugar. 1 lb. Fresh Butter. Lemon Flavoring. 1/4 oz. Cream of Tartar. 1 quart Water.

PROCESS.--Melt the sugar in the water by an occasional stir when the pan is on the fire, then add the cream of tartar and boil up to 300, lift the pan on to the side of the furnace and add butter in small pieces broken off by the hand; slip the pan on the fire again, adding the lemon flavoring; let it boil through so that all the butter is boiled in then pour into frames; when partly cold mark with cutter into small squares; when cold divide the squares; wrap each in wax-paper; sold generally in one cent packages.

N.B.--There is good butter scotch and better butter scotch, but no bad butter scotch; this quality may be improved by the addition of a large proportion of butter: some makers would put 2 lbs. or even 3 lbs. to this quantity, but that would be regulated by the class of trade and the size squares. These frames are made to hold 144 squares; a boil this size will make each square weigh about 1 oz., but any weight of square may be arranged by the adding or deducting from the boil.

EVERTON TAFFY.

12 lbs. White Sugar. 2 lbs. Dark Sugar. 2 lbs. Fresh Butter. 1/2 oz. Cream of Tartar. 2 quarts Water. Lemon Flavoring.

PROCESS.--Melt the sugar in the water, add the cream of tartar and boil the whole to the degree of 300; lift the pan on the side of the fire put in the butter in small pieces, place the pan again on the fire and let it boil through; add the lemon and give it time to mix in, then pour out contents into frame, or on pouring plate to cut up into bars. Everton taffy and butter scotch are similar, except in color; same remarks as to quality will apply in both cases; if the fire is very fierce, do not put the pan down flat on it after adding butter; nurse it gently to prevent burning; little fresh coke shaken over the fire would assist.

RASPBERRY TAFFY.

14 lbs. White Sugar. 1/2 oz. Cream of Tartar. Raspberry Flavor. 2 quarts Water. Brilliant Rose.

PROCESS.--Bring the sugar and water to a boil, add the cream of tartar, put on the lid for ten minutes, then uncover and immerse the thermometer; continue to boil to 300; tinge a bright red with liquid, brilliant rose; add raspberry essence; pour out on frame or pouring plate and mark into bars or squares of convenient size; when cold the taffy is ready for packing and sale.

FIG TAFFY.

10 lbs Good Yellow Sugar. 2 lbs. Glucose. 3 lbs Figs Chopped Fine. 3 pints Water.

PROCESS.--Boil the sugar, water and glucose to a weak crack, 295; lift the pan partly off the fire, putting a piece of iron under it to prevent it burning; add the figs, gently letting the whole thoroughly boil through and mix; pour in oiled tins or on slab, and mark into squares. When adding the figs let them drop through the fingers, not in a heap.

WALNUT TAFFY.

5 lbs. Brown Sugar. 5 lbs. Crystal Sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. Glucose. 3 lbs. Walnuts. 2 quarts Water. Lemon Flavoring.

PROCESS.--Shell the walnuts, peel off the skin chop very fine. Boil the glucose, sugar and water as before directed to the degree of weak crack, 300. Lift the pan a little from the fire; add the prepared nuts by letting them run through the finger gently; let the whole boil through, then add a few drops of the oil of lemon; when thoroughly mixed in, pour out the boil and mark into bars before too cold. The flavor is improved by roasting the walnuts a little before putting in the boil.

PEANUT CANDY.

Boil to the crack, 1 quart best New Orleans Molasses, 1 lb. glucose and 1 quart water.

Prepare the meats by removing the thin reddish skin in which they are enveloped and fill a tray to about the depth of an inch. Pour over them the hot candy prepared as directed, stirring the meats till each one is covered. A little less candy should be used than will suffice to entirely cover the meats, though each separate one should be covered, the object being to use just enough of the candy to cause the meats to adhere firmly together, thus forming a large cake, which when nearly cold may be divided into squares or bars with a sharp knife.

Almonds and other nuts may be used in the same manner above described.

BARCELONA TAFFY.

5 lbs. Brown Sugar. 5 lbs. Crystal Sugar. 3 lbs. Barcelona Nuts. 2 lbs. Glucose. 2 quarts Water. Lemon Flavoring.

Prepare the nuts by chopping them fine, boil the sugar, glucose and water to the degree 300. Remove the pan a little from the fire add the nuts carefully; when thoroughly boiled through and amalgamated, add a few drops of lemon and pour out contents into frame or on pouring plate and mark into bars.

COCOANUT TAFFY.

6 lbs. Granulated Sugar. 2 lbs. Desiccated Cocoanut Unsweetened. 4 lbs. Brown Sugar. 2 lbs. Glucose. 3 pints Water. Lemon Flavoring.

PROCESS.--Melt the sugars in the water, bring it to the boil, add the glucose and continue to boil to the degree 300; lift the pan a little way from the fire; let the desiccated cocoanut run gently in the boil; continue to boil until the lot is well mixed through; add a few drops of oil of lemon and pour out in frames; use the lemon cautiously, too much spoils the flavor.

COCOANUT TAFFY OR STICK JAW.

6 lbs. Granulated Sugar. 4 lbs. Brown sugar. 3 pints Water. 2 lbs. Glucose. 4 Large Cocoanuts Sliced.

PROCESS.--Boil to crack 310 by the thermometer, the sugar, glucose and water; have the cocoanut freshly peeled and sliced ready; raise the pan two or three inches from the fire; slide in the nut, stirring gently with spatula to keep them off the bottom till well boiled through, then pour out in tins or frames.

N.B.--Stir gently only the one way or you may grain the boil.

EGGS AND BACON.

10 lbs. White Sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. Glucose. 3 pints Water. 1 lb. Nonpareils. 1 Cocoanut. Brilliant Rose Coloring.

PROCESS.--Cut a large cocoanut into slices, dry them and lay them on the pouring plate in rows about half an inch apart; sprinkle between them thickly some nonpareil of various colors (hundreds and thousands). Boil to crack the sugar, glucose and water; tinge with brilliant rose, and carefully and evenly pour the contents over the pouring plate, disturbing the nut and nonpareil as little as possible. A good plan is to have a small shallow ladle with an open spout, into which pour a little of the boil, run over the plate a small stream from the ladle first, this will bind the nut, etc., and keep them in their places while the bulk is being poured out.

ALMOND HARDBAKE.

10 lbs. Good Brown Sugar. 2 lbs. Glucose. Lemon Flavoring if desired. 3 lbs. Almonds. 3 pints water.

PROCESS.--Split with a sharp knife the almonds, lay them face downwards on an oiled plate, cover the plate as closely as possible; boil the glucose, sugar and water to the crack 305; remove the pan from the fire, and pour the contents carefully and evenly over the almonds; the addition of a little lemon or almond flavoring will improve it.

N.B.--See remarks re-ladle in previous recipe.

ALMOND ROCK.

10 lbs. Brown Sugar. 2 lbs. Glucose. 6 lbs. Sweet Almonds. 3 pints water.

PROCESS.--Clean your almonds by blowing out all the dust and grit, pick out the shells, dissolve the sugar water and glucose; boil the lot up to crack; pour the contents on oiled plate. Sprinkle the almond all over the boil, shake over the lot a few drops of oil of lemon; turn up the edges first, then the whole boil; mix and knead it like dough until all the almonds are well mixed in; no time must be lost in this process or the sugar will get too hard; when firm make a long roll of the entire boil, place it on a hard wood board, and cut it up into thin slices; it will have to be kept in shape while cutting, by turning over and pressing the sides as it becomes flat; a special large sharp knife is used for this purpose. A smaller boil than the above had better be tried by beginners, say half the quantity. This can be done by halving the ingredients. Needless to state these remarks apply to other recipes.

FRENCH ALMOND ROCK.

12 lbs. White Sugar. 3 lbs. Glucose. 6 lbs. Sweet Blanched Almonds. 4 pints water.

PROCESS.--Boil the sugar, water and glucose in the usual way to the degree of weak crack, 305 by the thermometer, then ease the pan a little way off the fire, and let the almonds gently slide into the mass. Use the spatula a little just to keep the almonds from sticking to the bottom, stirring lightly only the one way, then watch the boil carefully till it turns a light golden color; lift off the pan and pour the contents into the frames. The almond will come to the top better in tins than in pouring plates.

Of course a better quality is made by adding more almonds, or vice versa. The almond after being blanched should be spread on a tin and dried, either on the stove top or in the oven.

RASPBERRY CANDY.

12 lbs. White Sugar. 3 lbs. Raspberry Jam. 2 quarts water. Brilliant Rose Coloring.

PROCESS.--Melt the sugar in water, and boil to ball 250; add the raspberry jam, and stir it well in; remove the pan from the fire, add sufficient coloring to make bright raspberry; rub part of the mixture with spatula against side of pan until it changes a heavy opaque, then stir the whole mass until uniform. Pour the contents carefully on a slab, covered with greased paper; make the sheet about 1/2 inch thick, mark into bars with a sharp knife, and break up when cold.

APRICOT CANDY.

6 lbs. White Sugar. 2 lbs. Apricot Jam or Pulp. 2 pints water. Saffron Coloring.

PROCESS.--Melt the sugar in the water and boil to ball, 250, add the jam or pulp. Stir well until thoroughly mixed in, remove the pan, rub part of the contents against the side of the pan with spatula until cloudy and opaque; color with saffron a bright yellow, then stir the whole together until uniform cloudy; pour out in frames or on slab covered with oiled paper. A pinch of tartaric acid would improve the flavor, but often prevent candying, unless in the hands of an expert. In any case the acid should be added in a fine powder after the whole has been thoroughly grained. A pallette knife is a very useful knife for rubbing the sugar against the sides of the pan.

BROWN COCOANUT CANDY.

14 lbs. Brown Sugar. 6 large Cocoanuts Sliced. 3 pints water.

PROCESS.--Melt the sugar in the water, and boil to degree of ball, then add the sliced cocoanut, stir them in remove the pan from the fire and rub the sugar against the side of the pan until it becomes cloudy stir the whole together until the whole becomes cloudy and thick; turn out the batch into tins or on slabs; mark with a sharp knife into squares or bars. When cold break it up at marks. Prepare the cocoanuts by cutting them up into thin slices with a spokeshave or machine. The brown skin is seldom skinned off for this dark candy.

WHITE COCOANUT CANDY.

14 lbs. White Sugar. 6 Large Cocoanuts Peeled and Sliced. 3 pints Water.

PROCESS.--Peel off all the brown skin from the nuts with a sharp knife; wash them and cut into thin slices. Melt the sugar in the water and boil to ball 250, add the sliced nuts, keeping the boil well stirred. When thoroughly mixed, remove the pan from the fire and commence to grain with pallette knife or spatula until the whole mass turns an opaque white. Now turn out the batch into frames, or on the slab, which has been covered with paper; mark into convenient sized bars, break up when set hard.

CHOCOLATE COCOANUT CANDY.

10 lbs. Brown Sugar. 1 lb. Pure Block Cocoa. 4 Cocoanuts shredded. 3 pints water.

PROCESS.--When cracking the nuts, do so over a basin and save all the milk: peel all brown skin off and cut the nut into fine shreds with machine; dissolve the sugar in the pan with the water and cocoanut milk, boil up to ball, remove the pan a little off the fire, then add the nut together with the pure block cocoa, stir the whole together, grain on side of pan as before directed. Stir the whole well up and turn out into frames or on pouring plates.

N.B.--The pure cocoa should have been previously melted in a saucepan or chopped up in small pieces. In the latter case there is less waste, and the heat of the sugar would soon melt it.

FRUIT CANDY.

7 lbs. White or Brown Sugar. 1 lb. Currants cleaned and dried. 1/2 lb. Sultanas. 1/2 lb. Sweet Almonds. 2 pints water. Saffron Coloring.

PROCESS.--Mix together the fruits, which should have been freed from grit and dust; boil the sugar and water to the degree of ball, 250; remove the pan from the fire; gently grain the boil by rubbing a little of the syrup against the side of the pan until cloudy, then slide in the fruit and stir the whole together, adding a little saffron to color a bright yellow. See that the mass has changed to an opaque, then turn the lot out into frames or on a pouring slab.

CANDIES, VARIOUS.

Fruits green, dried or preserved, almonds and nuts of almost every description, as well as flavors and colors of a pleasant taste and pretty hue may be used in making candies. The process is exactly the same: the ingredients can be arranged to suit the fancy of the maker and the palate of his customers. The field to select variety from seems inexhaustible, so that new goods of this class should be introduced ad. lib. No good purpose could be served by giving a procession of these simple instructions, when with little thought and judgment anyone could invent a new candy for themselves. It might be as well to add that a little glucose or cream of tartar added will make the candies softer, and may be used, if preferred, in each formula in the proportion of 2 lbs. of glucose or a teaspoonful of cream tartar to every 10 lbs. of sugar.

BARLEY SUGAR DROPS.

14 lbs. White Sugar. 3 lbs. Glucose. 4 pints water. 1/4 oz. Oil Lemon. Saffron Coloring.