Part 6

From the general high state of perfection and transparent clearness of the sea-water at Tenby, it has become a place of that fashionable resort, that both hot and cold sea-water baths became requisite for the comfort and infirmities of its numerous genteel visitors: these Sir William has likewise caused to be erected on the most convenient plans, with extensive reservoirs, dressing, and lounging-rooms, &c. under the superintendence of Mr. Cockerell. The bath-house is beautifully situated outside the harbour, adjoining the Castle Hill: an excellent carriage-road leads to it; and a large vestibule is allotted for servants to wait in: lodgings and refreshments are likewise provided for such as require them. The dressing-rooms for the warm and vapour baths are raised to any temperature by warm air; and there is a cupping-room, provided with all necessary apparatus, for such as require that operation.

The principal inns and hotels are Shaw’s, Jenkins’s, the Lion and the Bull; there is a theatre, bowling-green, assemblies, billiard-rooms, library, &c. &c. Horses are to be hired: and both rides and walks, in the vicinity, are beautiful and abundant.

This place, from the vast quantity of fish caught near the coast, is called Tenby-y-Piscoid. The Church of Tenby is a large, handsome, and antique edifice, and contains several monuments, bearing an ancient date, worthy of notice. On the left of the altar is one to William Risam, with the following inscription.

Two hundred pounds And 50 more He gave this towne to help the poore.

The use of one on cloth and coles bestowe For twelve decrepid mean and lowe.

Let 50 pounds to five Be yearly lent The other’s use on Burges’ sonne’s be spent.

On the same side is a monument to the memory of John Moore, Esq., who, at the age of fifty-eight, and having by his first wife six sons and ten daughters, fell desperately in love, which not being returned, he died of a consumption at Tenby. The following epitaph is very allusive to his unfortunate catastrophe:

He that from home for love was hither brought, Is now brought home, this God for him hath wrought.

Another monument to Morgan Williams:

Igne probatur En animus rursus clare in corpore MORGAN WILLIAMS, descended from the heiress of Robert Ferrar, Bishop of St. David’s, Burnt alive by bigots under Q. Mary; was lately chief of Gargam, and senior in council at Madras. Where Oct. 27, 1690, aged 49 years, he resign’d the President’s chair and his breath together. An employment of full thirty years chronicles the continual approbation of his conduct, particularly as chief commissioner of the circuit.

To the south of Tenby are some insulated rocks, in which are many curious excavations, and several islands, the principal of which is Caldy Island, consisting of about 600 acres, 200 of which are in a state of cultivation. The tower of its ancient priory is still standing.

If the Tourist has leisure and opportunity, many excursions may be made during his stay at Tenby. The first and most important is, to Pembroke and Milford Haven. The road affords many grand and extensive sea views, with a faint prospect of Lundy Isle. About four miles from Tenby stand the ruins of Mannorbeer castle, {72a} supposed to have been erected about the time of William Rufus. A little farther on, the ivy-mantled walls of Carew Castle {72b} burst upon us; and, about three miles from Pembroke, the decayed and broken walls of Llanfeth, or Lantphey Castle, attracted our notice, once the residence of the Bishops of St. David’s, but now a monument of desolation. The three buildings of Swansea Castle; Lantphey Court; and King John’s Hall, St. David’s; are very similar in their workmanship. We now arrived at

PEMBROKE.

Mr. Wyndham has so minutely delineated the present state of this castle, that I cannot do better than transcribe his account:

“The approach to Pembroke from the river shows the town and castle to the most beautiful advantage. The town is situated upon the ridge of a long and narrow rock, gradually ascending to the highest point, on which stands the castle, at the brink of the precipice. If I may compare small things with great, it much resembles the situation of Edinburgh.

“The castle is of Norman architecture, mixed with early Gothic. The principal tower, which is uncommonly high and perfect, has even its stone vaulted roof remaining. The walls of this tower are fourteen feet in thickness, the diameter of the space within is twenty-five, and the height, from the ground to the crown of the dome, is seventy-five feet; but visible marks appear within, that its height was originally divided by four floors.

“King Henry VII. was born in the present castle. The natural cavern, called the Wogan, lies immediately under the chapel, and opens with a wide mouth towards the river. A communication from the cavern to the castle was made by a staircase, on the outside of the rock; the entrance was barricaded with a strong wall, partly remaining, through which there is now a large door-way opened to the shore of the river. The cavern appears nearly circular; its diameter is fifty-three feet, and its height is proportionable to the diameter.

“In the civil war this castle was a garrison for the crown; and, being besieged, made a gallant defence.” In a cavern under this castle is a remarkable echo.

Pembroke is by many still considered the next town, in South Wales, to Caermarthen; but, although the situation is fine, and the main street good, still the residue of the town shows evident symptoms of decay, and that it lacks that trade and notice which Haverfordwest is deriving from its downfall. It gives the title of Earl to the Herbert family.

The two churches within the walls are ancient. St. Michael’s is of Norman architecture; it is at the east end of the town: St. Mary’s in the centre of it. The priory church has its nave vaulted with stone; it is paved with glazed bricks, with arms, flowers, &c. upon them. Near the church is the prior’s mansion, which still exhibits proofs of its former splendour and the large establishment of its possessors: it is now become a humble dilapidated farm-house; and, to trace its origin, you must go to the foundation. In 1811 Pembroke contained 501 houses, and a population of 2415 persons. From hence is a pleasant excursion, the account of which, as given by Mr. Fenton, in his work on Pembrokeshire, I subjoin:—

“Quitting the magnificent ruins of Pembroke, pass through Monkton, from the height of which an admirable view may be attained; reach Dry Burrows, a furzy moor, covered with tumuli. To the left stands Orielton. Here, turn to the right, passing Castleton, still you will observe various tumuli: from this height to the right, the navigation from Pennarmouth to the town of Pembroke. The coast here is famous for oysters of superior excellence, in inexhaustible quantities. Descend by Hênllan, anciently inhabited by the descendants of Gwynfard Dyfed: hence to Pwllcrochon church-yard, upon a small creek of Milford Haven, in which a memorable skirmish took place between the king’s and parliament’s forces. The parish church of Rhôscrowther is dignified with a handsome tower, and the interior contains some figures well sculptured: distant a quarter of a mile stands Iestingtown, or vulgarly Iseston, long the residence of the family of Meares; it appears to have been castellated. Not far from the church is a well, called St. Degmen’s, to which great virtues have been ascribed. Skirting the Bay of Nangle, reach the village of that name, so called from being somewhat placed _in angulo_. It bears marks of former consequence: in the church is a monument to Brigadier Ferrars. To the north of a brook, running behind the church-yard, are the remains of a considerable building, with a square tower, called the castle, said to have been the principal residence of the Sherbones, ancient Lords of the Vill; it is now an inn. Hence along the coast is a block-house, a singular building, reared upon the very edge of a horrid precipice overhanging the sea, fronting another upon the dale side of Milford. The masonry of these buildings is excellent; their origin is uncertain. Leaving Bangeston on the left, after passing over a sandy tract, you reach the village of Castle Martin, an ancient British post, part of the works of which are still remaining. A little further is Merion Court, belonging to Lord Cawdor; and, near to the village, to the north-east, a British circular camp. The road now passes the extremity of Lord Cawdor’s property at Brawnslade, farmed on the most improved principles. Still further along the coast is Bully Bear, where are the remains of a fortified camp. Hence to Linney Point, and the Head of Man, a promontory of great height, awfully overhanging its base: near this, a fine view of an insulated rock, called Pennyholt Stock, pass the Wash to a Danish camp; in which is that wonderful chasm called the Caldron: the entrance to the camp is by a winding ascent; it has been of considerable extent and great strength; and, with the Caldron and rock, most curious and worthy of observation. Bosherton Meer is occasionally agitated to such an extent as to be heard at a considerable distance—resembling thunder, and its foam rising many feet above the mouth of the pit. At a short distance to the east, is a fissure in the cliffs not discernible till nearly on its edge, called Penny’s and Adam’s Leap, over which these hunters were precipitated: thence you proceed to the Horse Block, and St. Govan’s Chapel and Well, to the latter of which great virtues are ascribed. The surrounding scenery is in the highest degree picturesque: the larger bay is surrounded by cliffs, in the form of an amphitheatre; that in which the hermitage is placed is truly romantic. In proceeding to Stackpool Court, after again gaining the height, you pass Buckspool, and from thence to Bosherton; below the village, pass under a tongue of land, on which are the remains of a strong encampment; near this is a small cavern, in the Limestone Rock, where human bones have been found. Harold is said to have infested this coast, and to have left marks of his predatory victories inscribed—

Hic Haroldus victor fuit.

Of three stones, the most east stands in Stackpool Park Warren, pitched upon one end; the second, surmounting a carnedd, is in a field called Horsestone Park, consisting of a great mass of limestone, six feet above the ground, five in breadth, and a foot in thickness; it is bedded in an almost circular mound of stones. The third stone is upon the same line, but more west; it is the tallest, almost incrusted with a minute lichen.”

Stackpool Court (from the broad rock at the mouth of Broad Haven) is the elegant seat of Lord Cawdor. It is on the west side of the pool, on a fine eminence, at the edge of a bold declivity. It bore originally a castellated form, but lost its ancient baronial character. In the civil wars it was fortified and garrisoned for the king. The walls were so strong, that the ordnance made little impression. The present mansion, which occupies the same site, is of wrought limestone; its architecture is heavy. Lady Cawdor has contributed to Mr. Fenton’s Tour, from her own pencil, a charming view of this vicinity, taken near the bridge, in crossing from the house to the park. The house has two fronts, the principal one facing the pleasure-ground, the other opening to a fine piece of water. You enter the latter front from a broad terrace, extending to the whole length; and, after descending, it continues to the extent of a spacious conservatory. The house is formed into many fine apartments, and the library is large. In one room, containing family pictures, is a whole length of Lord Cawdor, by Sir J. Reynolds, and another of Lady Cawdor, by Sir W. Beechey. The offices are well arranged, and the stables form a detached large quadrangular building. Of Stackpool, says Mr. Fenton, without straining a compliment, there are few places which display more magnificence without, or more sumptuous hospitality and elegant comforts within. But, to sum up the importance of this place, be it known that it stands in the midst of a property of fifteen thousand acres of most valuable land! Opposite is the park, well stocked with deer, deformed by some barren sand-banks, and at present deficient in wood. The borders of the lake and the pleasure-grounds are, however, richly wooded. Between the park and the sea there is a warren, formed of mountains of sand, and consolidated by that valuable plant môrhesg (juncus maritimus), sea or mat rushes. The lake is abundantly stocked with wild fowl, which collect at a call, and consent to be fed like barn-door poultry.

Passing along the park, enter the pleasant village of Stackpool, where the ancient lords’ vassals resided: hence descend to a vale on the right, where a private gate leads through a woody avenue to the church of Chereton, or Stackpool Elidur, so named from its founder. It stands at the head of a sequestered dell; is a plain building, with a tower; consists of a nave and chancel, having two small aisles on the south side. On the north side of the chancel, under a wrought canopy of stone, lies a cross-legged knight, said to represent Elidur de Stackpool, the first possessor of Stackpool; the same whom Giraldus mentions, who took the cross at the time that Archbishop Baldwin made his transit through the country. Ascend to St. Petroc’s, a rectory in the gift of Lord Cawdor: the church is small, but very light and neat. The only conspicuous monument is a handsome mural marble tablet, to a Lady Jane Mansell, wife first of Sir Roger Lort, and afterwards Sir Edward Mansell, of Muddlescombe, Bart. in the county of Caermarthen. The rectors of this place have been observed to live to a great age.

At a short distance from Stackpool stands the chapel of St. Gowen, situated in a fine amphitheatre of rocks, rising immediately over the sea. In respect to this scene, the Author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, thus expresses himself:—“As for you, my Lelius, never shall I forget your enthusiasm, when we visited the chapel of St. Gowen, situated among those stupendous rocks, which, forming a semicircular area towards the sea, commands a noble prospect of the coast of Devon. The language you employed on that interesting occasion, never can I be so base as to forget! ‘If our prayers are at one time more acceptable than at another, it must assuredly be in those moments when our souls are elevated by such scenery as this! Often have I been awed to devotion at Rome and at Loretto, in the presence of Canons, Bishops, and Cardinals; but here, in the rude simplicity of nature, I feel my spirit separate, as it were, from the tenement which has so long chained it to the earth, and wing its course directly up to heaven! The magnificent area, in which this small chapel is situated, is a temple more sublimely grand and affecting than all the mosques of Turkey, and all the cathedrals of France, Italy, or Spain.’”

At Pembroke we hired a boat, {80a} intending to sail round the extensive Haven of Milford; and, as we retired from the shore, we took a retrospect of the dilapidated walls of the castle, once the terror, and even in ruins, the pride of the scene. It is most advisable to make this excursion at high water, as it adds much to the picturesque scenery of the _tout ensemble_.

MILFORD HAVEN,

is justly compared to “an immense lake; for, the mouth not being at any distance visible, the whole haven seems land-locked. Though it is a mile and three quarters wide, it could not be defended against an enemy, nor is there a sufficiency of timber in the neighbourhood. {80b}

“This haven is formed by a great advance of the sea into the land, it being above ten miles from the southernmost point at Nangle to Pembroke, beyond which the tide comes up to and beyond Carew Castle. It is capable of holding the whole navy of England; and the same is said of Cork Harbour. {80c} The spring tides rise thirty-six feet, the neap above twenty-six. Ships may be out of this haven in an hour’s time; and in eight or ten hours over at Ireland, or the Land’s End; and this with almost any wind, by day or night.”

“In surveying the estuary of Milford Haven,” says a writer, whom we shall frequently have occasion to quote, “expanding into one of the finest harbours in all Europe, and wearing the appearance of an immense lake, sufficiently large to contain the entire navy of the British Crown, secure from winds and tempests, and where a large fleet might manœuvre with the greatest safety,—what ideas of power and magnificence are awakened in the mind! Then by a magic glance we traverse the tempestuous Channel to the Irish coast, and call to mind the various crimes and injuries which that ill-fated country has committed and received. Returning to the spot whence we had travelled, beholding the creeks and bays, the woods, and various agreeable accompaniments, which embellish this majestic estuary; who is there that does not derive the highest satisfaction in recalling to memory the beautiful scene in Cymbeline, where Imogen, in the character of Fidele, has flowers sprinkled over her grave, and a solemn dirge performed in honour of her memory?”

Our reception at the miserable place of

HUBBERSTON

did not induce us to stay longer than was sufficient to recruit ourselves. We found the dirty inn pre-occupied by unfortunate Irish refugees: their situation was indeed melancholy; driven from their country, their friends, and all most dear to them!—And wishing to forget their past sufferings, the following lines seem applicable to their situation:

“Oh! could oblivion’s friendly draught Soothe all our sorrows to repose; Nor that intruder, restless thought, Renew our agonizing woes!

“Then, all unconscious of the past, The present hour might calmly glide; Keen retrospect no more be cast O’er life’s tempestuous, changeful tide:

“Yet Heaven, to all its creatures kind, With peace can gild the deepest gloom; And, ’mid misfortune’s wrecks, the mind May sweet serenity assume.”

Having refreshed ourselves, we walked to

MILFORD,

a small village, opposite Hubberston: several comfortable houses are situated on the hill, commanding a delightful view of the haven. Such was Milford when originally described in this work: but it now ranks as a town of some consequence in Wales. The haven, from its extent and safety, held forth such great inducements to improve the vicinity, and gradually to raise it into consequence as a sea-port, that the Right Hon. Charles Greville, whose property it became on the death of Sir W. Hamilton, obtained an Act of Parliament for the building of the town, and the privileges it was to enjoy. After having selected the situation, which is one of the finest parts of the haven, Mr. G. laid down the ground-plan of the streets: the principal ones run in parallel lines east and west, and in the direction of the shore, with short streets of communication intersecting them at right angles. The houses are generally good, and many calculated for the residence of opulent families.

The church is near the haven, at the east end of the lowest street. The windows contain the arms of Hamilton, Barlow, and Greville. The tower, at the west end of the edifice, is very conspicuous in sailing up the haven. The custom-house is at the lower end of the town, by the water side. The dock-yards are immediately in front of the town: they are calculated for the building of line-of-battle ships, as well as frigates: it was formed after a plan by Lord Spencer. Packets are stationed here under excellent regulations, for the conveyance of the mails and passengers to Waterford.

The mail from London arrives here every evening, and departs in the morning. Markets are held on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

To the west of Milford is Priory Pill, on the opposite bank of which is Haking, or Old Milford. Wet docks were about to be established on this creek, but the design was abandoned. Between Haking and Hubberstone is the observatory and mathematical school. Being satisfied with our day’s excursion, we again returned to our comfortable quarters at Tenby, which we left with regret a few days afterwards.

We again pursued the Pembroke road; and, about two miles from Tenby, the neglected walls of

CAREW CASTLE

invited curiosity;—and,

“Deep struck with awe, we mark’d the dome o’erthrown, Where once the beauty bloom’d, the warrior shone: We saw the castle’s mouldering tow’rs decay’d, The loose stone tott’ring o’er the trembling shade.”

This castle, once the residence of the famous Sir Rhys ap Thomas, I imagine, was intended more for a noble residence than a place of defence. The walls of this building are very thick, and constructed with stones of a large size, strongly cemented with mortar. It is situated on a branch of Milford Haven, and consists of a range of apartments built round a quadrangle, with a circular tower at each corner. The south wall is entirely demolished; but the north consists of a spacious hall, measuring one hundred and two feet by twenty, supposed to have been built by Sir John Perrot: above and under this hall are noble apartments and extensive offices. This castle appears to have been erected at different times, if we may judge from the architecture. Every ledge of the walls of the towers, denoting the different stories, was embossed with vegetation, which seemed to grow from the solid stone. Over the gate-way, at the west side, are the arms of England, Duke of Lancaster, and Carew; and contiguous to this entrance is another spacious room, measuring eighty feet by thirty.

The village of Carew is poor: there is, by the side of the road, a cross, fashioned out of a single stone, fourteen feet high, and carved all over.

Leaving Carew, we crossed a small bridge over an arm of Milford Haven, and continued our route across a barren and uninteresting heath; till, descending to the village of

CRESSELEY,

the luxuriant plantation of firs, belonging to Sir William Hamilton, attracted our attention. Small vessels constantly frequent this quay, from whence a quantity of small coal is shipped to different parts. From hence the road is extremely barren and unpicturesque; but, about three miles from

LANDSHIPPING,

an arm of Milford Haven again burst upon our sight. Near it is situated the uninhabited house of Sir William Owen. In crossing the ferry, Picton Castle, the property of Lord Milford, formed a prominent feature in the gay scene; and Slebitch, the seat of Mr. Philips, standing at the end of the Haven, contributes considerably to this picturesque prospect. The grounds of

PICTON,