Part 3

is extensive and beautiful. In this place iron-works are carried on by Mr. Pitchcock. About a mile from Lidney, the Old Passage.—King’s Road, with the merchant ships lying off Bristol,—Glocestershire and Somersetshire hills, studded with gentlemens’ seats, churches, and half-seen cottages, form a cheerful landscape.

CHEPSTOW.

The weather prevented our seeing the celebrated walks of Piercefield, but we promised ourselves the pleasure of visiting them on our return down the Wye. The castle of Chepstow, called Cagwent, or Castell Gwent, stands on a rock washed by the river Wye, near its influx into the Severn. Topographical writers differ in their accounts concerning the antiquity of the castle, but it is generally supposed to have been built at the same time with the town, appearing at that period to have been a kind of citadel to Chepstow. {24} The castle was formerly of great extent, as, according to Leland’s account, the “waulles began at the end of the great bridge over Wy,” yet, “in the castel ys one tower, as I have heard say, by the name of Langine.” Little now remains of its former grandeur: but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we ascended the decayed steps of the tower, from whence the eye traced with pleasure the windings of the Wye, till it was at last lost in conjunction with the Severn. We examined the apartments in which Henry Marten, one of the regicides, who sat to condemn King Charles I., was confined twenty years.

Grand views of the Bristol Channel still continued to form interesting objects from the road; but about three miles from Chepstow, we turned into some fields on the right, to examine the ivy-mantled walls of

CALDECOT CASTLE.

On our first entrance, we gazed with that rapt astonishment, which fears to disturb, or be disturbed, by the mutual communication of thought. Mr. Warner, in his survey of this ruin, was much disappointed; but I cannot help allowing, although the view from it was inferior to Chepstow, that its antiquated walls wear a nobler appearance; and the gloom that reigns around it forces a sigh, and evinces the transitory nature of sublunary greatness. The antiquity of the building is very obscure. Passing through the village of Caldecot, we soon entered

CAERWENT,

on the western side, through the broken fragments of its walls, of which one immense mass has recently fallen. This ancient town is now a village, with a few scattered cottages, but was formerly celebrated, under the auspices of Agricola, for its temples, theatre, porticoes, and baths; few vestiges of its former splendour are now extant. A few fragments of loose stones only remain to point out its former extent. In an orchard, adjoining a farm-house belonging to Mr. Lewis, is the beautiful tesselated Roman pavement, discovered in the year 1777. The tesseræ or dies, about an inch in breadth, and half in depth, are nearly square, consisting of four colours, red, yellow, blue, and white, {25} which are still in great preservation; the whole is surrounded with a border, much resembling a Turkey carpet. The daily depredations on these curious remains of antiquity are greatly to be lamented.

In the road from Caerwent, amongst other objects for admiration, the mansion of Sir Robert Salusbury, on the left, commanding an extensive view, attracted our notice. Passing through the neat village of Christchurch, animated with white-washed cottages, and graced with its simple church, which stands on an eminence, we left the turnpike-road at the thirteenth mile-stone; and following a footpath through some fields, near the banks of the Usk, soon entered the ancient city of Caerleon.

CAERLEON

has been celebrated in all ages of British History. It was a Roman city of great power, strength, and importance, under the name of _Isca Silurum_, and their chief station in the country of the _Silures_; and equally, and perhaps still more known, for having been King Arthur’s seat of government: a prince, equally renowned in history, chivalry, and poetry. This city was formerly a metropolitan see, but Saint David, the national saint of Wales, thinking the noisy intercourse of a populous city, like Caerleon, ill adapted for contemplation, or the solitary cast of his mind, removed it to Minevia, which from that period has been called Ty Dewi by the Welsh, and Saint David by the English. {26} The remains of its ancient grandeur are still discernible. Whilst tracing the extent of its amphitheatre, surrounded by a circular entrenchment, we took a retrospect on the exertions of man, the fate of kingdoms, and of rulers; and, marking the grand destruction of ages, it seemed to convince us of the transientness of human worth and happiness!

Reascending Christ-church hill, we had a fine view of the county of Monmouth like a map beneath us. Near

NEWPORT

a new stone bridge has been erected by contract for ten thousand one hundred and sixty-five pounds, by Mr. Edwards, son to the Edwards, who built the famous Pont-y-pridd. It consists of five arches.

The commerce and population of this town are greatly increased of late years. As a sea-port it is safe; its chief trade is in iron and coal. The Monmouthshire Canal communicates here by a basin with the Usk river, and by that means with the Bristol Channel; and as the Monmouthshire Canal again communicates with the Brecon Canal and the Avon, Ebwy and other rail roads, Newport becomes the grand depôt for the heavier articles of trade of that part of the interior of South Wales. The Crumlin bridge branch is eleven miles five furlongs, its falls, three hundred and sixty-five feet. Pontypool, eleven miles, falls four hundred and forty-seven feet. Brecknock, thirty-seven miles seven furlongs.

A circuitous, but more romantic route from Chepstow to Newport, is recrossing the Wye, passing over the forest of Deane, through Saint Briaval’s to Monmouth. The road is not bad, but narrow; if travelling with a carriage, it will be necessary to be provided with a horn, which, upon your sounding, if you find answered, you must wait till the party so answering comes past.

The views to the right over the Severn and Glocestershire are most rich and extensive, and those from the summits of the overhanging rocks of the Wye, awful and terrific: before you reach Monmouth the country becomes thickly inhabited, which the beautiful situations it affords readily accounts for; and from Monmouth to Ragland and Usk, the same continues to be the case.

RAGLAND CASTLE,

one of the finest ruins in Wales, (for although Monmouthshire is now an English county, it formerly was Welsh,) stands near the village of that name: it may be pleasantly and leisurely viewed in the day, with Usk and Caerleon, affording time to reach Newport.

The first view of it is considerably impeded by the surrounding trees, but the closer inspection presents such a mass of ruin as well proves its ancient strength and grandeur. From the citadel, which lies to the south of the main building, the communication was by a drawbridge over the moat, by which it was surrounded; it was a hexagon, apparently five stories high, and of much strength, with bastions.

Round the citadel were raised walks, and in the walls are small recesses. A stone staircase still remains, leading to the top of one of the towers, from which not only the ruins, but the adjacent country, are viewed to much advantage. The two courts of the castle both communicate with the terrace.

The main entrance is magnificent, much overhung with ivy; the gothic portal is defended by two massive towers, and the building being faced with hewn free-stone, exhibits a less desolate aspect than it would otherwise do. The whole range of offices and apartments appears to have been on a splendid scale, and the building shows various specimens of architecture, from the time of Henry the Fifth to that of Charles the First.

The large banquetting hall divides the two courts; it still retains the arms of the Marquis of Worcester, with the motto “Mutare vel timere sperno.”

During the civil wars, Henry, first Marquis of Worcester, several times afforded a refuge to Charles the First, but at length, when that monarch’s fortune was past retrieving, Ragland Castle, after having been various times summoned by detachments of the Parliamentary forces, was regularly invested and taken by Sir Thomas Fairfax; a window is still shewn, through which a girl in the garrison, by waving a handkerchief, introduced his troops. The aged Marquis was sent prisoner to London, where he died in the 85th year of his age, and his property having been confiscated, and the castle dismantled, it became a prey to his own tenantry, who pulled it down for the sake of the materials, but more particularly for the staircases, of which they removed above twenty.

At the Restoration, this with other estates was restored to the family, but in such a state of ruin, that being considered unworthy their repairing, it was left as an object of pillage to the vicinity, which it has but lately, since its ruins have become venerable, ceased from being. It appertains to the noble house of Beaufort.

The library, which was here destroyed by the mad fanatic soldiery of Cromwell, is greatly to be regretted, as it possessed Welsh manuscripts of great importance; the collection was very large, and the loss not to be estimated, many being unique.

The domain appertaining to this princely residence was very extensive and well arranged, and in Ragland Church are still to be seen the vestiges of splendid memorials erected for Marquisses of Worcester, and other noble personages.

USK, or CASTRUM ISCA,

which is the next place of note on the route, is believed to be the Burrium of the Romans. It was formerly a place of much note; its situation is low, but capable of being rendered most beautiful, its surrounding scenery holding forth the most tempting lures to improve nature by art, at a trifling expense.

The Usk is here become a noble river, and its fish, particularly its salmon, are held in the highest estimation. Along the river is a beautiful walk to the ruins of the castle, from which you gain a fine view of the town, and the surrounding slopes and heights, and in few places is to be seen so large a body of clear water, in so expanded and rapid a stream. When I visited it, it was not the season for fishing, but I must confess, I sighed to leave it behind me. To the flyfisher few places hold forth such inducements to settle as Usk. I fancied myself in a Swiss valley where I could cultivate my vines, my lavender, and my roses, supply my table with exquisite fish and game, enjoy pure air, and a fine climate.

The best and pleasantest road to Caerleon is over the bridge to Llanbaddock, three furlongs; by Llangibby castle, and Llangibby, one mile two furlongs; to Llanhenock, three miles; Caerleon, two miles seven furlongs; Newport, five miles.

CAERLEON

boasts numerous inducements to stay the progress of the antiquary; it is by some called the Isca Augusta, or Isca Colonia of the Romans, and was a principal garrison, being the head quarters or main station of the second Augustan legion, having under it numerous other stations.

Mr. Cox states the shape of this ancient city to be an oblong square, three sides straight, the fourth curved; the south angle is near the end of the Round Table field, where the walls are nearly twelve feet thick; the south-west side passes the amphitheatre parallel to the Usk; the walls are again to be traced by the Broadway along the Benhouse field; the west angle runs alongside the Malpas road; on this flank a gateway leads to Goldcroft common; the north angle forms part of a stable in the New Inn yard, is again visible in the Castle yard, and turns the east angle near a rail-road by the Castle ditch; hence the line curves again, touches on the foss of the Castle, passes through gardens, &c. and is lost in a lane near the quay till it again becomes discernible near the south angle. The circumference of the walls, in which there appear to have been four gates, one in the centre of each flank, was about 1800 feet.

It was a station of the Prætor, and its splendid palaces, its stately edifices and gilded roofs, might, according to Giraldus Cambrensis’ exaggerated account, have vied with those of Rome itself; its baths, its aqueducts, its stoves, and proofs of ancient grandeur, were even in his time amply displayed in their ruins; numerous are the coins that have been here collected and the riches this spot has afforded to the cabinets of the curious.

Between Caerleon and Newport is St. Julians, once the residence of Lord Herbert of Cherbury: the walk to it in fine weather is pleasant, and although now converted into a farmhouse, traces of its former respectability are evident. In a small barn near to it are likewise to be seen the remains of St. Julian’s abbey. According to some accounts, such was the extent of Caerleon in the days of its grandeur, that it extended as far as Christ Church and this place, and covered a tract of country nine miles in circumference.

Ascending the Gam, the ships in the Bristol Channel, with the islands Flat and Steep Holmes rising in the midst of the sea, and the shores of Somerset and Devon, formed pleasing objects in the distant view, whilst the mellow green of nearer woods and meadows, watered by the Usk, made a combination of views gay and beautiful.

Newport Castle, standing on the bank of the river Usk, is a small distance from the bridge: it evidently appears to have been once a place of considerable extent, and built for the defence of the passage over the river; three strong towers commanded the Usk, but towards the town, a common wall, without any flanks, seems to have been its sole defence. Some of the windows still remain, the relics of Gothic architecture, and appear to have been elegantly decorated. From the tower is a fine view of the Usk. Between Newport and

CARDIFF

we crossed the little stream of Ebwith, near the Park of Tredegar House, belonging to Sir Charles Morgan. The grounds are well planned, and command the hills of Machen and Twynbarlwm, with the Church of Bassaleg rising in the centre, on an eminence. The whole valley, indeed, lies prettily. Passing through the villages of Pediston and Castletown, we soon reached the bridge of two arches, over the river Romney, which divides England from Wales.

The situation of Cardiff is on a low flat, near the mouth of the Taff, over which is a bridge, built by Mr. Parry, in the year 1796: it consists of three large and two smaller arches. The tower of the Church is very light, and of elegant workmanship; but there is nothing in the inside worthy of notice.

The Castle derives its name from the river Taff, which washes its walls; Caertaph signifying the town or castle upon Taff. Robert Fitzham, on having conquered Glamorganshire, divided the country into different portions, among the twelve Norman knights, as a reward for their service, and took for his own share the town of Cardiff; and erected, in the year 1110, this Castle, in which he generally resided, and held his court of chancery and exchequer. In the beginning of May, 1645, during the troubles under King Charles I., it was in the possession of the Royalists, but it was surrendered to the Parliament before August, 1646.

We entered the Castle by two strong gates, which still remain in great preservation, but we were displeased with the modern architecture of the new-built mansion; the neat shorn grass and the gravel walk were circumstances that ill accorded with the mutilated walls of an ancient ruin, which has braved the storms of so many centuries. The circumstance which tends to ensure this castle a melancholy place in history, is the unjust confinement of Robert, Duke of Normandy, brother to William Rufus, and King Henry I. The accounts, however, of his confinement have been greatly exaggerated by historians; but a dark vaulted room beneath the level of the ground, measuring nearly a square of fifteen feet and a half, is still pointed out as the place of his confinement; a small crevice in the top, about half a yard in length, and three inches wide, was the only place to admit the air. In this situation he died, after an imprisonment of twenty-six years, and was buried in Glocester Cathedral, where his effigy as large as life, carved in Irish oak, and painted, is yet shown.

The Keep, which is still very perfect, of an octagon shape, stands on an eminence in the centre of a large square. Having walked round the ramparts, which command extensive views of the adjacent country, we visited the castle itself, which has within these few years, been repaired, but still remains in an unfinished state.

In the dining-room are some portraits, in length, of the Windsor family: the most striking are, Sir William, who first raised forces for Queen Mary. Sir Edward, who first entered the breach, at the taking of St. Quintin, in Flanders, where the famous constable De Montmorency was taken prisoner.

In the breakfast parlour is a family piece, consisting of seven figures: it was painted in the year 1568. Holbein, I rather imagine, was the painter: it consists of two sisters playing at cards, and two brothers at drafts, with Edward, Earl of Windsor, and his lady looking on. The style is stiff, with ruffs, small black caps and feathers.

Andrew Windsor, to the right of the fire-place; general _Kneller_. in the reign of Queen Anne, serving in the twenty-eighth regiment of foot Thomas Windsor, to the left, who served in several wars _Kneller_. of William and Queen Anne, and was colonel of the third regiment of Dragoon guards, in the reign of King George I. Lady Ursula Windsor _Ibid_. Hon. Master Windsor _Unknown_. A good painting of Ursula, Countess of Windsor, with _Kneller_. her grand-daughter Ursula Windsor Thomas, Lord Windsor, governor of Jamaica _Vandyke_. Hon. Charlotta Windsor _Dahl_. Hon. Ursula Windsor _Ibid_. Hon. Dixia Windsor, storekeeper of the ordnance, and for six successive parliaments member for Cambridge.

This Castle belongs to the Marquis of Bute. In this place, Robert, Earl of Glocester, founded a priory of White Friars, and another of Black, which continued till the reign of King Henry VIII. Only the shell of the White Friars is now extant, and the ruins of the Black Friars are inhabited by fishermen. It has only one church, which is of Norman architecture, with a rich and handsome west door, and an elegant tower.

The races at Cardiff, in October, are very good, and with the balls, are frequented by a brilliant display of beauty and fashion; the ordinaries are likewise well attended by the principal nobility and gentry of the country, and are very good.

From Cardiff we walked to inspect the remains of the once celebrated city of

LANDAFF.

The ruins of the old Cathedral are very beautiful; the door-cases are all Norman architecture, elegantly moulded; two of which, on the north and south sides, are fine specimens of that æra. All the other parts are Gothic: the nave is unroofed. Within these ruins we entered the Cathedral, which carries with it more the appearance of a modern theatre than a place of divine worship, so erroneous was the taste of the architect, in combining with the sacred Gothic a fantastical work of his own. Among several ancient monuments, are two very elegant ones of the Mathews family, {35a} whose descendants own the site of the bishop’s castle, of which only the gate remains: the rest, with the archdeacon’s house, was destroyed by Owen Glendour. {35b} There are likewise the monuments of two Bishops, with another, and the figure of Lady Godiva, full length, carved in marble on it.

The present cathedral was built by Bishop Urban, about the year 1107: its length is two hundred and sixty-three feet and a half, breadth sixty-five feet, and height one hundred and nineteen feet; like Bangor, it has no cross aisle.

Near this city is the rural village and the castle of St. Fajans, celebrated for a sanguinary battle, fought in its vicinity between the Royalists and Republicans during the Protectorate of Cromwell, in which the former were defeated with the loss of nearly the whole of their troops. Landaff, although it ranks as an episcopal city, and was one of the first places in the British dominions in which a religious establishment was founded, boasting the erection of its first church A.D. 186, is now little better than a village dependant on Cardiff for its supplies: even its clergy find few inducements to draw their attention to it, beyond what duty requires: they possess a chapter-room, kitchen, and office for the Proctor-general, yet seldom meet more than once a year for the audit.

Landaff stands on a small eminence, commanding a view of Cardiff and the surrounding country.—We returned again to Cardiff, and the first six miles of our road to

CAERPHILY

were not very interesting, till ascending Thorn Hill, the beauties of the vale below, with the Flat and Steep Holmes rising in the distant prospect, the ruins of Cardiff Castle, and the ivy-mantled walls of Landaff cathedral, amply compensated for the trouble of climbing this eminence. A little farther on, Caerphily Castle burst upon our sight, and

—“seemed to frown In awful majesty on all around.”

The founder, and the time of its erection, are very uncertain; but I refer my readers to the first volume of the _Archæologia_; to an ingenious Dissertation, by Daines Barrington, where it is satisfactorily proved to have been the work of King Edward I. This castle is one of the noblest ruins of ancient architecture now remaining in the kingdom, and exceeds all in bigness, except that of Windsor. The hall and the chapel may still be traced; the former measures about seventy feet in length, thirty-four in breadth, and seventeen in height. The roof is vaulted about eight feet high, and supported by twenty arches. On the north side is a chimney ten feet wide, with two windows on each side, extending down to the floor, and carried above the supposed height of this room. At each angle was originally a round tower of four stories, communicating with each other by a gallery. On the west side of the hall stairs is a low round tower, of one story, called the Mint-house, with three painted arches on the south side, and a square well on the west. The leaning tower, towards the east end, more particularly engaged our notice: it is divided into two separate parts by a large fissure, which runs from the top down almost to the middle. Its lineal projection is supposed to be on the outer side about eleven feet and a half. On the west and north are visible vestiges of a draw-bridge.

The east wall, on the south side of the principal entrance, is fluted between the buttresses, with battlements on their tops, to protect the intermediate walls.

This castle was that to which the Spensers retired in the reign of Edward II. but being taken, there were discovered within the walls, 2,000 fat oxen, 12,000 cows, 25,000 calves, 30,000 fat sheep, 600 horses, 2,000 fat hogs; besides 2,000 beeves, 600 sheep, and 1,000 hogs salted: 200 tons of wine, 40 tons of cider, and wheat for 2,000 men for four years.

We now came to the celebrated

VALE OF GLAMORGAN,