Part 13
“Their courtships, marriages, &c. differ in nothing from what is practised on these occasions among the lowlanders or other Welsh people; but as there are some distinct and local customs in use in North Wales, not adopted in other parts of Great Britain, I shall, by way of novelty, relate a few of them:—When Cupid lets fly his shaft at a youthful heart, the wounded swain seeks for an opportunity to have a private conversation with the object of his passion, which is usually obtained at a fair, or at some other public meeting; where he, if bold enough, accosts her, and treats her with wine and cakes. But he that is too bashful will employ a friend to break the ice for him, and disclose the sentiments of his heart: the fair one, however, disdains proxies of this kind, and he that is bold, forward, and facetious, has a greater chance of prevailing; especially if he has courage enough to steal a few kisses: she will then probably engage to accept of his nocturnal visit the next Saturday night. When the happy hour arrives, neither the darkness of the night, the badness of the weather, nor the distance of the place, will discourage him, so as to abandon his engagement. When he reaches the spot, he conceals himself in some out-building, till the family go to rest. His fair friend alone knows of and awaits his coming. After admittance into the house a little chat takes place at the fireside, and then, if every thing is friendly, they agree to throw themselves on a bed, if there is an empty one in the house; when Strephon takes off his shoes and coat, and Phillis only her shoes; and covering themselves with a blanket or two, they chat there till the morning dawn, and then the lover steals away as privately as he came. And this is the bundling or _courting in bed_, {168} for which the Welsh are so much bantered by strangers.
“This courtship often lasts for years, ere the swain can prevail upon his mistress to accept of his hand. Now and then a pregnancy precedes marriage; but very seldom, or never, before a mutual promise of entering into the marriage state is made. When a matrimonial contract is thus entered into, the parents and friends of each party are apprised of it, and an invitation to the wedding takes place; where, at the appointed wedding-day, every guest that dines drops his shilling, besides payment for what he drinks: the company very often amounts to two or three hundred, and sometimes more. This donation is intended to assist the young couple to buy bed-clothes, and other articles necessary to begin the world. Nor does the friendly bounty stop here: when the woman is brought to bed, the neighbours meet at the christening, out of free good-will, without invitation, where they drop their money; usually a shilling to the woman in the straw, sixpence to the midwife, and sixpence to the cook; more or less, according to the ability and generosity of the giver.
“MODE OF BURYING.
“When the parish-bell announces the death of a person, it is immediately inquired upon what day the funeral is to be; and on the night preceding that day, all the neighbours assemble at the house where the corpse is, which they call Ty Corph, i.e. ‘the corpse’s house.’ The coffin, with the remains of the deceased, is then placed on the stools, in an open part of the house, covered with black cloth; or, if the deceased was unmarried, with a clean white sheet, with three candles burning on it. Every person on entering the house falls devoutly on his knees before the corpse, and repeats to himself the Lord’s prayer, or any other prayer that he chooses. Afterwards, if he is a smoker, a pipe and tobacco are offered to him. This meeting is called Gwylnos, and in some places Pydreua. The first word means Vigil; the other is, no doubt, a corrupt word from Paderau, or Padereuau, that is, Paters, or Paternosters. When the assembly is full, the parish-clerk reads the common service appointed for the burial of the dead: at the conclusion of which, psalms, hymns, and other godly songs are sung; and since Methodism is become so universal, some one stands up and delivers an oration on the melancholy subject, and then the company drop away by degrees. On the following day the interment takes place, between two and four o’clock in the afternoon, when all the neighbours assemble again. It is not uncommon to see on such occasions an assembly of three or four hundred people, or even more. These persons are all treated with warm spiced ale, cakes, pipes and tobacco; and a dinner is given to all those that come from far: I mean, that such an entertainment is given at the funerals of respectable farmers. {170a} They then proceed to the church; and at the end of that part of the burial service, which is usually read in the church, before the corpse is taken from the church, every one of the congregation presents the officiating minister with a piece of money; the deceased’s next relations usually drop a shilling each, others sixpence, and the poorer sort a penny a-piece, laying it on the altar. This is called offering, and the sum amounts sometimes to eight, ten, or more pounds at a burial. The parish-clerk has also his offering at the grave, which amounts commonly to about one-fourth of what the clergyman received. After the burial is over the company retire to the public-house, where every one spends his sixpence for ale; {170b} then all ceremonies are over.”—Mr. W. then proceeds to explain the good and ill resulting from the prevalence of Methodism, and those fanatics termed Ranters, &c., and states, that “the mountain-people preserve themselves, in a great measure, a distinct race from the lowlanders: they but very seldom come down to the lowlands for wives; nor will the lowlander often climb up the craggy steeps, and bring down a mountain spouse to his cot. Their occupations are different, and it requires that their mates should be qualified for such different modes of living.
“I will not scruple to affirm, that these people have no strange blood in their veins,—that they are the true offspring of the ancient Britons: they, and their ancestors, from time immemorial, have inhabited the same districts, and, in one degree or other, they are all relations.”
The vale of Llanberris is bounded by the steep precipices of Snowdon, and two large lakes, communicating by a river. It was formerly a large forest, but the woods are now entirely cut down. We here dismissed our Cambrian mountaineer, and easily found our way to Dolbadern (pronounced Dolbathern) Castle, situated between the two lakes, and now reduced to one circular tower, thirty feet in diameter, with the foundations of the exterior buildings completely in ruins: in this, Owen Gôch, brother to Llewellin, last prince, was confined in prison. This tower appears to have been the keep or citadel, about ninety feet in height, with a vaulted dungeon. At the extremity of the lower lake are the remains of a British fortification, called Caer cwm y Glô: and about half a mile from the castle, to the south, at the termination of a deep glen, is a waterfall, called Caunant Mawr; it rushes over a ledge of rocks upwards of twenty yards in height, falls some distance in an uninterrupted sheet, and then dashes with a tremendous roar through the impeding fragments of the rock, till it reaches the more quiet level of the vale. Returning to the lakes, you have a fine view of the ruins, with the promontory on which they are situated; and that with greatly heightened effect, if favoured by their reflection on the glassy surface of the waters, to which you add the rocky heights on each side; Llanberris church, relieving the mountain scenery, and the roughest and most rugged cliffs of Snowdon in the back-ground topping the whole, which give together a grand and pleasing coup d’œil.
In this vicinity are large slate quarries, the property of Thomas Asheton Smith, Esq.; and a rich vein of copper ore. These afford employ to great numbers of industrious poor: to the men, in obtaining the ore and slates, and the women and children in breaking, separating, and preparing the different sorts for exportation, or for undergoing farther preparatory processes to fit them for smelting. From hence a rugged horse-path brought us to the Caernarvon turnpike-road, about six miles distant; the high towers of the castle, the very crown and paragon of the landscape, at last pointed out the situation of
CAERNARVON;
and having crossed a handsome modern stone bridge thrown over the river Seiont, and built by “Harry Parry, the modern Inigo, A.D. 1791,” we soon entered this ancient town, very much fatigued from our long excursion.
The town of Caernarvon, beautifully situated and regularly built, is in the form of a square, enclosed on three sides with thick stone walls; and on the south side defended by the Castle.
The towers are extremely elegant; but not being entwined with ivy, do not wear that picturesque appearance which castles generally possess. Over the principal entrance, which leads into an oblong court, is seated, beneath a great tower, the statue of the founder, holding in his left hand a dagger; this gateway was originally fortified with four portcullises. At the west end, the eagle tower, remarkably light and beautiful, in a polygon form; three small hexagon turrets rising from the middle, with eagles placed on their battlements; from thence it derives its name. In a little dark room {173a} in this tower, measuring eleven feet by seven, was born King Edward II. April 25, 1284. The thickness of the wall is about ten feet. To the top of the tower we reckoned one hundred and fifty-eight steps; from whence an extensive view of the adjacent country is seen to great advantage. On the south are three octagonal towers, with small turrets, with similar ones on the north. All these towers communicate with each other by a gallery, both on the ground, middle, and upper floor, formed within the immense thickness of the walls, in which are cut narrow slips, at convenient distances, for the discharge of arrows.
This building, founded on a rock, is the work of King Edward I., the conqueror of the principality; the form of it is a long irregular square, enclosing an area of about two acres and a half. From the information of the Sebright manuscript, Mr. Pennant says, that, by the united efforts of the peasants, it was erected within the space of one year.
Having spent near three hours in surveying one of the noblest castles in Wales, we walked round the environs of the town. The terrace {173b} round the castle wall, when in existence, was exceedingly pleasing, being in front of the Menai, which is here upwards of a mile in breadth, forming a safe harbour, and is generally crowded with vessels, exhibiting a picture of national industry; whilst near it a commodious quay presents an ever-bustling scene, from whence a considerable quantity of slate, and likewise copper, from the Llanberris mine, is shipped for different parts of the kingdom.
Caernarvon may certainly be considered as one of the handsomest and largest towns in North Wales; and under the patronage of Lord Uxbridge promises to become still more populous and extensive.
In Bangor-street, is the Uxbridge Arms hotel, a large and most respectable inn; where, as well as at the Goat, the charges are moderate and the accommodations excellent.
Caernarvon is only a township and chapelry to Llanbeblic. Its market is on a Saturday, which is well supplied and reasonable; and with the spirited improvements made to the town and harbour, has been the means of greatly increasing its population: according to the late returns it contains 1008 houses, and 6000 inhabitants. The church, or rather chapel, has been rebuilt by subscription. Service is performed here in English, and at the mother church at Llanbeblic {174} in Welsh.
The Port, although the Aber sand-banks forming a dangerous bar, must ever be a great drawback upon it, has not only been wonderfully improved, but is in that progressive state of improvement by the modern mode of throwing out piers, that vessels can now, of considerable tonnage, lie alongside the quay, and discharge or take in their cargoes in perfect safety; this bids fair, as may be seen by the rapid increase of its population and tonnage, to make it a place of trade and considerable resort: yet still it only ranks as a creek, and its custom-house is made dependent on that of the haven of Beaumaris; to the comptroller of which its officer is obliged to report: this must be a considerable hindrance to its trade, particularly in matters out of the customary routine. The county hall, which is near the castle, is a low building, but sufficiently commodious within to hold with convenience the great sessions. Caernarvon possessed such great favour with Edward the 1st. as to have the first royal charter granted in Wales given to it. It is by that constituted a free borough: it has one alderman, one deputy mayor, two bailiffs, a town-clerk, two serjeants-at-mace, and a mayor; who, for the time, is governor of the castle, and is allowed 200_l._ per annum to keep it in repair; it, jointly with Conway, Nevin, Criccaeth, and Pwllheli, sends a member to parliament; for the return of whom, every inhabitant, resident or non-resident, who has been admitted to the freedom of the place, possesses a vote.
It is allowed to have a prison for petty offences independent of the sheriff. Its burgesses likewise were exempt throughout the kingdom from tollage, lastage, passage, murage, pontage, and all other impositions of whatever kind, with other privileges, too numerous to insert.
The county prison is likewise near the castle. It was erected in the year 1794. The new market-house, containing the butchers’ shambles, &c. is a well-contrived and convenient building, affording good storage for corn and other articles left unsold.
The site of the ancient town of Segontium, which lies about half a mile south of the present one, will be found worthy the attention of the traveller; it was the only Roman station of note in this part of Cambria, on which a long chain of minor forts and posts were dependent. It is even maintained, and that by respectable authorities, that it was not only the residence, but burial-place of Constantius, father of Constantine the Great; but most probably this arises from confusing Helena, the daughter of Octavius, duke of Cornwall, who was born at Segontium, and married to Maximus, first cousin of Constantine, with Helena his mother, whom these authorities assert to have been the daughter of a British king. A chapel, said to have been founded by Helen, and a well which bears her name, are amongst the ruins still pointed out.
Since the numerous late improvements have been going forward, at and near Caernarvon, new and interesting lights have been thrown on the ruins in its vicinity, which will form a rich treat to the antiquary.
Near the banks of the Seint, from which Segontium took its name, and which runs from the lower lake of Llanberris, are the remains of a fort, which appears to have been calculated to cover a landing-place from the river at the time of high-water: it is of an oblong shape, and includes an area of about an acre; one of the walls which is now standing is about seventy-four yards, and the other sixty-four yards long, in height from ten to twelve feet, and nearly six feet in thickness. The peculiar plan of the Roman masonry is here particularly discernible, exhibiting alternate layers, the one regular, the other zig-zag; on these their fluid mortar was poured, which insinuated itself into all the interstices, and set so strong as to form the whole into one solid mass; retaining its texture even to the present day, to such a degree, that the bricks and stone in the Roman walls yield as easy as the cement.
English history has spoken so fully on this place, as connected with Edward the 1st., on the title, which he, from his son being born in this castle, so artfully claimed for him, and the future heirs apparent to the British throne, as affording to the Welsh a prince of their own, agreeable to their wishes, and the quiet annexation of the principality to his dominions, which Edward by this means obtained, that it appears superfluous to enlarge upon it in this work.
Several excursions may be made from Caernarvon, with great satisfaction to the tourist; the principal of which is a visit to
PLAS-NEWYDD,
the elegant seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, situated in the Isle of Anglesey, and distant about six miles from Caernarvon: if the wind and tide prove favourable, the picturesque scenery of the Menai will be viewed to great advantage by hiring a boat at the quay. {178} But if this most advisable plan should not be approved of, the walk to the Moel-y-don ferry, about five miles on the Bangor road, will prove highly gratifying: the Menai, whose banks are studded with gentlemen’s seats, appearing scarcely visible between the rich foliage of the oak, which luxuriates to the water’s brink, is filled with vessels, whose shining sails, fluttering in the wind, attract and delight the observing eye; whilst the voice of the sailors, exchanging some salute with the passing vessel, is gently wafted on the breeze.
Crossing the ferry, we soon reached the ancient residence of the arch-druid of Britain, where was formerly stationed the most celebrated of the ancient British academies: from this circumstance, many places in this island still retain their original appellation, as Myfyrim, the place of studies: Caer Idris, the city of astronomy; Cerrig Boudin, the astronomer’s circle. The shore to the right soon brought us to the plantations of Plâs-Newydd, consisting chiefly of the most venerable oaks, and noblest ash in this part of the country:
. . . “Superior to the pow’r Of all the warring winds of heaven they rise; And from the stormy promontory tower, And toss their giant arms amid the skies; While each assailing blast increasing strength supplies.”
BEATTIE’S MINSTREL.
Beneath their “broad brown branches,” we discovered several cromlechs, the monuments of Druidical superstition; several stones of enormous size support two others placed horizontally over them. {179} For what purpose these ancient relics were originally erected, it is not for us puisne antiquarians to discuss; and with eager impatience we hurried to visit the noble mansion, which has not yet received the finishing stroke of the architect; sufficient, however, is accomplished to form a conjecture of its intended splendour and magnificence. The whole is built, stables included, in a gothic castellated form, of a dark slate-coloured stone: on entering the vestibule, we, for a short time, imagined ourselves in the chapel, a mistake, though soon discovered, to which every visitor is liable; the ceiling having gothic arches, with a gallery suitable to it, and several niches cut in the side walls: we were next conducted through a long suite of apartments, the design of them all equally convenient and elegant. The landscape from the Gothic windows is both beautiful and sublime: a noble plantation of trees, the growth of ages; the winding strait of the Menai, gay with vessels passing and repassing: and, beyond this tranquil scene, the long range of the Snowdon mountains shooting into the clouds, the various hues of whose features appear as beautiful as their magnitude is sublime. The house is protected from the encroachment of the sea, by a strong parapet embattled wall; in fine, this magnificent seat of the gallant Marquis seems to possess many conveniences peculiar to its situation: the warm and cold baths, constantly filled by the Menai, are sequestered and commodious, and every part of the house is abundantly supplied with water.
Since the last edition of this work was published, this splendid residence has been finished in a style corresponding to the promises it held forth, and now ranks amongst the first in the principality.
The park, though small, is well-wooded, and laid out with taste; and the woods extending along the bold cliffs of the Menai, with the parapeted bastion wall, which supports the terrace at the bottom of the lawn, cause this elegant edifice, with its turrets and gilded vanes, surrounded by its venerable groves, to be viewed to great advantage from the water or opposite shore. The front is composed of a centre nearly semilunar, with two wings semioctagonal; these receive a bold and happy finish from octagonal turrets rising from the basement of each angle of the front and wings, several feet above the embattled parapet, finishing in small spires surmounted by gilt vanes.
Behind the house are two of the largest cromlechs; the upper stone of one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick, supported by five upright ones; the other is close to the first, and is only about five feet and a half square.
Not far from these is a carnedd, part of which is destroyed; within was found a cell, about seven feet long and three wide, covered with two flat stones. On the top of the stones were two semicircular holes, for what purpose intended I leave to others to determine; some conceive they were places of confinement, and these holes served as stocks, in which to secure the victims of the Druidical sacrifices; but let us rather hope not; for as the learned of those days here for a period found a shelter, and as these woods
“Were tenanted by bards, who nightly thence, Rob’d in their flowery vests of innocent white, Issued with harps, that glitter to the moon, Hymning immortal strains:”
MASON’S CARACTACUS.
we may as reasonably conceive that learning, poetry, music and religion, would soothe and soften the angry passions of the soul, as that they would rouse to the horrid immolation of human sacrifices.
Being unavoidably prevented at this time from visiting the celebrated Paris mountain, the property of the Marquis of Anglesea and the Rev. Mr. Hughes, we again returned to the hotel at Caernarvon; purposing to stay the following day (Sunday), for the purpose of making a strict enquiry into the religious sect, settled here, and in many parts of Wales, called Jumpers. {181}
The account we had received from our landlord, we imagined was exaggerated; and this more strongly induced us to visit the chapel, that we might be enabled, in future, to contradict this ridiculous report.