Part 8
Take 4 quarts of clear raspberry juice, add to it 8 pounds of sifted lump sugar, set it on a clear fire in your preserving pan, stir it with the spatter to keep it from burning; let it rise, then take it from the fire, skim it, set it on the fire again, and let it rise three or four times, skimming it each time. If, on taking out the skimmer, small flakes hang from it, it is of a proper consistency and may be put into jars. When cold cover it with writing-paper dipped in brandy, and bladder them over.
255.--Black Currant Jelly.
Pick black currants from the stalks as well and in as short a time as you can, then put them into strong earthen jars or stew pots, cover them well over and set them in a slow oven for one night; next morning put them into the jelly-bag, and as soon as drained, which will be in three or four hours, measure the juice. To each pint of juice take 1 lb. 4 ozs. of sifted loaf sugar, boil and skim it as before. You may if you think proper clarify the sugar, but this is a much easier way.
256.--Red Currant Jam.
Pick red currants until you have 7 lbs., then force the whole of them through a splinter sieve, to which add 7 lbs. of sifted lump sugar; boil this very well over a brisk fire for twenty minutes, stirring it all the time with the spatter. This is very useful for tartlets, cheaper than rasps, and a much better colour. Put it into jars, cover them with paper dipped in brandy and bladder them over.
257.--Apple Jelly.
Take codlin apples, cut them very thin across, fill your preserving pan nearly full, cover them with soft water and then with a sheet of paper, set them on a slow fire, let them simmer slowly for a considerable time to extract the jelly from the apple. They must not on any account be stirred about in the pan. When the virtue appears to be quite extracted from them pour them into a jelly-bag. Cut more apples as before, about half the quantity, put them into the pan, and pour over them the extract from the first apples, simmer them very slowly as before. When the essence is all extracted put them into a jelly-bag. This jelly is used in the putting up of all preserved fruits.
258.--Gooseberry Jam.
Take 7 lbs. of clean, picked, dry gooseberries, put them into your preserving pan with 1 pint of water and 7 lbs. of sifted loaf sugar. Boil over a clear fire from twenty minutes to half an hour; when they are boiled to the consistency required take them off, put them into jars and secure them from the air as the others.
259.--Orange Marmalade.
Take 12 Seville and 12 China oranges, pare the outer skin off as thin as you can, lay it in soft water and freshen it every two hours to take out the bitterness, then pull off the white skin from the pared oranges and throw it away; cut them across, squeeze the juice from them, and set them on the fire in the preserving pan with plenty of soft water, boil them until so soft as to pulp through a hair sieve. Then boil the outer skin equally soft. If it will not go through, beat it well in a mortar and then put it through; add to it the other pulp and the juice. Weigh it, and to each pound allow 1 lb. 2 ozs. of sifted loaf sugar. Boil this well together, stirring it all the time, until it will retain the mark of the scraper, when it will be ready to put into jars, which must be secured from air as before.
XV. CHOCOLATE.
260.--General Directions for Making Chocolate.
Provide yourself with an iron pestle and mortar, also a stone slab of a very fine grain about two feet square, and a rolling-pin of hard stone or iron. The stone must have an opening beneath in which to place a pot of burning charcoal to heat it. Warm the mortar and pestle by placing them on a stove, or charcoal may be used, until they are so hot that you can scarcely bear your hand against them. Wipe the mortar out clean, and put any convenient quantity of prepared nuts in it, which pound until they are reduced to an oily paste into which the pestle will sink with its own weight. Add fine powdered sugar to the chocolate paste. After it has been well pounded, the sugar must be in proportion of 3 lbs. to 4 lbs. of prepared cocoa. Continue to pound it until completely mixed; then put it in a pan and place it in the stove to keep warm. Take a portion of it and roll or grind it well on the stone slab with the roller, both being previously heated like the mortar until it is reduced to a smooth impalpable paste, which will melt in the mouth like butter when this is accomplished. Put it in another pan and keep it warm until the whole is similarly disposed of; then place it again on the stove, which must not be quite so warm as previously. Work it over again, and divide it into pieces of two, four, eight, or sixteen ounces each, which you put in tin mould. Give it a shake, and the chocolate will become flat. When cold, it will easily turn out.
261.--Chocolate Harlequin Pistachios.
In making harlequin pistachios, you warm some of the sweet chocolate by pounding it in a hot mortar. After it has been prepared in this manner, take some of it and wrap it round a blanched pistachio nut; roll it in the hand to give it the form of an olive, and throw it into nonpareils of mixed colours, so that it may be variously coloured, à la harlequin. Proceed with the remaining pistachio nuts after the same fashion, dropping them into the nonpareils so that the comfits will adhere to the pistachios. Fold them in coloured or fancy papers, with mottoes. The ends are generally fringed.
262.--Chocolate Drops with Nonpareils.
Prepare some warm chocolate as in the preceding recipe. When the chocolate has been well pounded and is a smooth impalpable paste, make it into balls the size of a small marble by rolling in the hand. Place them on square sheets of paper about one inch apart; having filled the sheet, take it by the corners and lift it up and down, letting it touch the table each time: this will flatten them. Completely cover their surfaces with white nonpareils, gently shaking off the surplus ones. After the drops are cold, they can be very easily removed from the paper. The drops should be about the size of a sixpence.
263.--Chocolate in Moulds.
It is usual now amongst confectioners to use the English unsweetened chocolate, as it saves much time and trouble, and is equally good. To form it into shapes you must have two kinds of moulds, made either of thick tin or copper tinned inside; the one sort is impressed with a device or figure, and with a narrow edge; the other is flat or nearly so, and the same size as the previous mould, with a shallow device in the centre. You put a piece of prepared chocolate into the first mould, and then cover it with the flat one; upon pressing it down the chocolate receives the form of both devices. After it is cold it can be easily taken out. It should have a shining appearance.
_Now Ready, uniform with the present Work, 124 pp., price 2s._
THE
PASTRYCOOK AND CONFECTIONER’S GUIDE
For Hotels, Restaurants, and the Trade in General. Adapted also for Family Use.
BY ROBERT WELLS,
AUTHOR OF THE “BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER’S AND SUGAR-BOILER’S ASSISTANT.”
_CONTAINING A LARGE VARIETY OF MODERN AND USEFUL RECIPES._
LONDON: CROSBY LOCKWOOD & SON, 7, STATIONERS’ HALL COURT.
INDEX.
Abernethy Biscuits, 39 ---- As made in London, 40 ---- Usual way of making, 40 Acid Drops, 76 Adulteration with Alum, Professor Vaughan on, 13 Albert Cakes, 31, 69 Almonds, Rock, 52 Almond Fruit Biscuits, 52 ---- Hardbake, 82 ---- Sponge Biscuits, 56 Alum in Bread, 13 ---- Liebig on Action of, 13 ---- Professor Vaughan on, 13 American Genoa Cake, 66 Apple Jelly, 97 Arrowroot Biscuits, 42 Art of Bread-making, Slow Progress in, 1
Baking, General Remarks on, 10 Balloon or Prussian Cakes, 29 Balmoral Cakes, 29 Barberry Drops, 79 Barley Sugar, 75 ---- Drops, 76 Bath Buns, 27 ---- Oliver Biscuits, 43 Bee-hive, to Ornament a, 85 ---- in Spun Sugar, 85 Biscuits, Fancy, Recipes for, 45 ---- Hard, Recipes for, 38 Bisque or Biscuit Glace, 93 Blue Colouring for Sugar, 87 Boiling Sugar to the degree called “Pearled”, 74 ---- to the degree called “Blown”, 74 ---- to the degree called “Feathered”, 74 ---- to the degree called “Ball”, 74 ---- to the degree called “Crackled”, 75 ---- to the degree called “Caramelled”, 75 ---- by the Thermometer, 75 Boston Chips, 82 ---- Lemon Crackers, 41 Brandy Snaps, 35, 69 Bread, Tea Cakes, Buns, &c., Recipes for, 17 ---- Good, Essentials of, 10 Bread-making by the Old Method, 17 ---- Modern way of, 18 ---- Process of, 5 ---- Scotch style of, 19 Bride Cakes, 62 ---- Almond Icing for, 63 ---- Icing Sugar for, 63 Brilliants, 91 Bristol Cake, 67 Brown Bread compared with White, 7 Buns, Recipes for, 27, 28, 29, 30 Burnt Almonds, 78, 81 Butter for Puff Paste, 57 Butter for Pastry and Cakes, 14
Cakes made with Butter, Directions for Mixing, 60 ---- London way of Mixing, 60 Captains’ Biscuits, 39 ---- Thick, 39 Carmine Colouring for Sugar, 88 Cast Sugar Drops, 78 Cayenne Drops, 77 Chelsea Buns, 28 Chemistry as applied to Bread-making, 2, 8 Chocolate, General Directions for Making, 99 ---- Drops, 79 Chocolate Drops with Nonpareils, 100 ---- Harlequin Pistachios, 100 ---- in Moulds, 100 Cinnamon Buns, 30 ---- Lozenges, 91 Citron Cake, 61 Clarifying Sugar, 73 Clove Lozenges, 91 Coarse Bread, 22 Cocoanut Cakes, 31 ---- Ice, 94 Coffee Biscuits, 42 ---- Drops, 79 Colouring Sugar, 87 Confections in Sugar Boiling, 73 Cracknel Biscuits, 48 Crimp or Honeycomb Biscuits, 49 Crumpets, 26 Currant Fruit Biscuits, 47 ---- Jam, Red, 97 ---- Jelly, Black, 97 ---- or Milk Scones, 68 Custard, 59 ---- Common, 59
Diet Bread, 21 Digestive Biscuits, 41, 42, 45 Drop Biscuits, Common, 54 Dundee Cake, 65
Eccles Cake, 58 Edinburgh Biscuits, 43 Engagement Favours, 82 Essentials of good Bread-making, 10 Exhibition Nuts, 47
Fermentation, 4 Flour, Judging between Good and Bad, 13 Flour, Patent, 31 Fruit Biscuits, 54 Fruit Cakes, Bride Cakes, &c., Recipes for, 60 ---- Cake, Common, 61 Fun Nuts, 34
Genoa Biscuits, 47 ---- Cake, 64 ---- ---- American, 66 Germ Flour Bread, 23 German Buns, 30 German Wafers, 49 ---- Yeast, 11 Ginger Cakes, 33 ---- Candy, 77 Ginger Drops, 77, 80 ---- Lozenges, 91 Gingerbread, Queen’s, 32 ---- German, 32 ---- Grantham or White, 34 ---- Halfpenny Squares, 35 ---- Light, 34 ---- Scarborough (for wholesale purposes), 33 ---- Spiced, 32 Gold Cake, 65 ---- Cup, 84 ---- Sugar Crocanth, 84 ---- Web, 83 Gooseberry Jam, 98 Graham, Professor, on Brown Bread, 8 Green Colouring for Sugar, 88 Gum Paste, 83
Halfpenny Lunch Cake, 70 ---- Queen Cake, 70 ---- Scotch Cakes, 69 ---- Sponges, 70 Hardbake, Almond, 82 Hermit Biscuits, 50 Hokey Pokey, 93 Home-made Bread, 17 Honeycomb Biscuits, 49 Hot-cross Buns, 28 Hunting Nuts, 36
Ice Creams, 92 Icing Sugar, 63 Imperial or Lemon Biscuits, 45
Jago, Professor, on Brown Bread, 7 Jubilee Buns, 30 ---- Cakes, 67 Judges’ Biscuits, 54 Jumbles or Brandy Snaps, 35, 69
Kent Biscuits, 45
Lafayette Cakes, 66 Laughing or Fun Nuts, 34 Lavender Drops, 81 ---- Lozenges, 91 Lemon Biscuits, 45 ---- Cake, 67 ---- Candy, 77 ---- Drops, 80 Liebig on Action of Alum in Bread, 13 ---- on Process of Bread-making, 5 London Buns, 30 Lord Mayor’s Biscuits, 54 Lozenges, Recipes for, 90 Lunch Cake, 70 Luncheon Biscuits, 41
Macaroons, common, 50 ---- French, 51 ---- Italian, 50 Machine Biscuits, 43 ---- made Biscuits, 38 Madeira Cakes, 64 ---- Cake (Scotch Mixture), 64 Making Bread, Liebig on, 13 ---- Modern Way of, 18 ---- Scotch Style of, 19 Marmalade, 98 Marseillaise Biscuits, 47 Meringues, 53 Milk Scones, 68 Millefleur Drops, 81 Mixing Cakes, London way of, 60, 61 Muffins, 25 Musk Drops, 81 Mystery Plum Cake, 66
Naples Biscuits, 56 Nelson Cake, 58 Nonpareil Biscuits, 69 Nursery Biscuits, 44 Nutmeg Lozenges, 91
Oatmeal Cake, 27 Orange Colouring for Sugar, 88 ---- Drops, 81 Orange Marmalade, 98 Orange-flower Drops, 79
Palais-Royal Biscuits, 55 Parisian Barm, 11 Parking Cake, 36 Parkings, 36 Paste for Baked Custard, 58 ---- Small Raised Pies, 58 ---- Tarts, 58 Pastry, Custard, &c., Recipes for, 57 Pear Drops, 81 Penny Albert Cake, Large Square, 69 ---- Queen Cakes, 31 ---- Rice Cakes, 31 Peppermint Candy, 77 Peppermint Drops, 80 ---- Lozenges, 90 Peruvian Biscuits, 47 Philadelphia Caramels, 81 Pic-Nics, 41 ---- Common, 41 Pineapple Drops, 76, 80 Pink Burnt Almonds, 81 Plum Cake (as made for best shops in Edinburgh), 64 Plum Cake at 6d. per lb. (as sold by Grocers), 65 ---- at 3d. per lb. (Mystery), 66 ---- at 4d. per lb., 66 Polkas or Halfpenny Sponges, 70 Pond Cake, 65 Poppy Drops, 76 Pound Cakes, 61, 62 Premium Drops, 49 Preserving Fruits, 95 Princess Biscuits, 51 Prussian Cakes, 29 Puff Paste, 57
Queen Cakes, 31, 70 Queen’s Bread, 24 ---- Drops, 48
Raspberry Jelly, 97 Ratafias, 51 Red Colouring for Sugar, 89 Rice Biscuits, 47, 55 ---- Cake (Scotch Mixture), 64 ---- Cakes, 31 Rock Almonds, Brown, 52 ---- Pink, 52 ---- White, 52 Rose Candy, 77 ---- Drops, 79 ---- Lozenges, 90 Rusks, 51 Rye Bread, 22
Saffron Buns, 29 Sally Luns, 24 Savoy Biscuits, 54 Scarborough Water Cakes, 56 Scones, 68 ---- Currant or Milk, 68 Scotch Cakes, 69 Seed Cakes, 61, 62 Shell Biscuits, 43 Ship Biscuits, 38 Shortbread, English, 37 ---- French, 37 ---- Scotch, 36 Shrewsbury Biscuits, 46 Silver Cake, 65 Silver Web, 83 Snowdrop Biscuits, 47 Soda Biscuits, 40, 44 ---- Cakes, 68 Spice Nuts, 34 Sponge Biscuits, 56 Spun Sugar Bee-hive, 85 ---- Pyramid, 84 Strawberry Ice Cream, 93 ---- Jam, 96 Strawberries, Preserving, 95 Sugar Biscuits, 68 ---- Boiling, 74, 75 ---- Clarifying, 72 ---- Testing, 74 ---- to prepare for Colouring, 87 ---- to Colour, 87
Tart Paste, Crisp, 58 ---- Sweet, 58 Tartlet, a Handsome, 58 Tea Cakes, 24 ---- Yorkshire, 24 Technical Training, Need of, 1 Testing Sugar, 74 Toulouse Biscuits, 47 Transparent Mint Lozenges, 91 Treacle, Prepared, 33 ---- for thick Gingerbread, 33 Twelfth Cake, 64
Unfermented or Diet Bread, 2
Vanilla Drops, 80 ---- Lozenges, 91 ---- Ice Cream, 92 Vaughan (Professor) on Adulteration with Alum, 13 Venice Biscuits, 46 Victoria Biscuits, 42 Violet Drops, 81
Walnut Biscuits, 48 Wedding Cake, 63 White Gingerbread, 34 White Spice Biscuits, 68 Whole Meal Bread, Home-made, 20 ----for Master Bakers, 21 Wine Biscuits, 40
Yeast, American, Recipe for, 12 ---- German, 11 Yellow Colouring for Sugar, 89 York Biscuits, 43 Yorkshire Cakes, 24
PRINTED BY J. S. VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITED, CITY ROAD, LONDON.
* * * * *
Transcriber’s Notes
Minor punctuation errors (such as missing periods) have been corrected.
Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained, except in cases where the index was made to match the main text.
Variations in the chapter headings and recipe names between the Table of Contents and the main text have been retained. However, the entry for recipe “57. Machine-made Biscuits” was incorrectly listed at the end of Chapter IV. in the original. It has been moved to its correct place under Chapter V.--Hard Biscuits.
The following apparent typographical errors have been corrected.
Page 3, “proteine” changed to “protein.” (consists of protein, compounds)
Page 39, “in to” changed to “into.” (crumbled into very small pieces)
Page 49, “8 ozs. eggs” changed to “8 eggs.” (in German Wafers recipe)
Page 56, “Biscuit” changed to “Biscuits.” (Sponge Biscuits)
Page 68, “pennypiece” changed to “penny piece.” (a little thicker than a penny piece)
Page 69, “vol” changed to “voil.” (in Halfpenny Scotch Cakes recipe)
Page 105, “Lunns” changed to “Luns.” (Sally Luns, 24)