CHAPTER XXVII.
FROM JERUSALEM TO NABULUS.--HISTORIC PLACES ON THE ROUTE.
During the night after the incidents described in our last chapter the storm cleared away, and the sky at sunrise was without a cloud. Everybody had slept well and recovered from the fatigue of the journey, and the exposure to rain and snow. Frank and Fred were quite ready to make a fresh start, and laughed over the troubles of the previous day as the merest trifle in the world.
Doctor Bronson had a long conference with the dragoman and the keeper of the hotel, together with the American consul, who happened to be stopping in the house. It resulted in an announcement that the party would start the following morning for Damascus.
Of course the decision gave great delight to the youths. The Doctor made the following explanation of the plan for the new journey:
"Ali tells me that the heavy storm we have just passed through will be in our favor, as there is a good prospect of fair weather to follow it for a week or ten days. It is not the right season for the 'long route,' as the ride from Jerusalem to Damascus is called, and the majority of travellers at this time of year prefer the 'short route.'
"Perhaps I may as well say here that if we followed the latter we would return to Jaffa and take steamer for Beyroot. There we land, and proceed by carriage-road to Damascus, and when we have done with that famous city we go back to Beyroot the way we came, and are through with Syria. I had thought of taking the short route, but as we are now well accustomed to the ways of travel, and have proved our abilities to endure the severities of a winter storm, I am inclined to the long one. Our American companions have left the whole arrangements in my hands, and I have decided that we will go through to Damascus by the overland way."
Frank asked how much time they would take on the journey.
"The ordinary time consumed in it," the Doctor answered, "is seventeen days; it may be extended as much as we choose, since we hire the dragoman by the day, and he is to provide us with everything; and it may be shortened three or four days. I have arranged that he is to get us through in fourteen or fifteen days, and he will do so if we are not delayed by storms or accidents.
"The best time of the year for this journey is in spring, between 'the early and the latter rain' which the Bible mentions. The country is then in its best condition, the climate is delightful, and the chance of fine weather far better than now. But as we cannot suit the season to ourselves we will run the risk; with stout hearts and plenty of water-proof clothing we ought to go through without difficulty."[8]
[8] The author begs to inform the reader that the incident of the storm between Jericho and Jerusalem was his own experience in a visit to the Holy Land. He did not make the overland journey between Jerusalem and Damascus, and consequently the description of the route followed by Frank and Fred is not given from personal observation.
The afternoon was devoted to making a few purchases of articles likely to be needed on the journey, the completion of letters, and a few sights that had not been made during the first visit to the city. Doctor Bronson engaged a trusty man, who was recommended by the consul, to go to Jaffa and take the baggage of the party to Beyroot, where he would deliver it to the proprietor of the hotel to await their arrival. This was thought to be safer than ordering it sent forward as ordinary freight, and trusting to the agents of the steamer to deliver it. Steamship agents in the Levant are not worthy of the fullest confidence, as the writer of this book can bear witness. Travellers are advised to look carefully after their own affairs, and be wary of the oleaginous tongues of those from whom they purchase tickets.
As soon as the arrangements had been completed Ali disappeared from the hotel, and was not again seen till evening. He was busy with his preparations for the journey, as it was necessary for him to hire additional horses, and secure a stock of provisions sufficient to carry them through to Damascus with what he could purchase on the route. The pack-train, with the tents and provisions, was sent away in advance. The party had a long ride before it for the next day, and before nine o'clock everybody was in bed.
They were off by daybreak, leaving the city by the Damascus Gate, which we have already seen in their company. They passed near the tombs of the kings, and descended into the Valley of the Brook Kedron, which is here much smaller than where they crossed it at Mar Saba. They met a few natives on their way to the city, with trains of donkeys laden with vegetables and grain for sale in the markets of Jerusalem, and in one place they were crowded against a rough wall by a line of camels that kept the road to themselves in the manner for which those animals are famous. The road, though used for centuries, is impassable for wheeled vehicles, and the beasts of burden that traverse it follow in the footsteps of those who preceded them ages and ages ago.
In several places the route was over rocky ridges, where all the earth had been swept or washed away, leaving the ledges entirely bare. Frank observed that the feet of the camels had worn broad holes in the rock; the Doctor recalled to him the proverb hitherto quoted, that a continual dropping will wear away stone, and said the feet of the camels had dropped for hundreds of years in the same places, so that it was no wonder the stones were worn away.
From Jerusalem to Nabulus is a ride of eleven hours; it is customary for travellers to pass the night at Bireh or Ramallah, as the majority of tourists are unwilling to make the entire journey in a single day. But our party had tested its ability to endure fatigue, and determined without hesitation to reach Nabulus before night if possible. It was for this reason that an early start was made, and the halts along the road were few and short.
The farewell view of the Holy City was taken from the side of the Hill of Scopus, which was reached by ascending from the Valley of the Kedron. Its domes and minarets stood out clear and distinct under the deep-blue sky of Palestine, and every member of the party was reluctant to turn away his eyes from the place which is sacred in the thoughts of every Christian, and familiar to his ears since he first heard the stories of the Crucifixion and the Resurrection of the Saviour of mankind. Frank called to mind the words of the Israelite by Babel's stream: "If I forget thee, O Jerusalem, let my right hand forget her cunning. If I do not remember thee, let my tongue cleave to the roof of my mouth."
From the crest of Scopus they looked down upon a broad plain or plateau, where the first view seemed to be one of desolation. Limestone rocks were spread in ridges, one beyond the other, until they appeared to leave but little space for arable land. Close observation showed that between every ridge and its neighbor there was a strip of soil which might be made productive with a little care and industry, and the sides of the hills and valleys were terraced till they sometimes resembled a series of broad steps.
"This land is full of promise," one of the boys remarked.
"Yes," responded the Doctor, "and by cultivation it can be made to answer the scriptural description. The Land of Promise was a land of 'vines, and fig-trees, and pomegranates; a land of oil-olive, and honey,' as we read in the eighth chapter of Deuteronomy.
"Observe what this land might be rather than what it is. The fig-tree and the olive would grow and bear fruit in the spaces between the ridges of rock, and the vines might clamber up the sides of the terraces, and be as luxuriant as they were in the days when the spies visited Eshcol, and brought back the famous grapes described in the Bible and represented in the books of our infancy."
Fred asked if such grapes were found at present, and where Eshcol was supposed to be.
"There is some doubt on that score," was the reply, "but it is generally believed that the Brook of Eshcol was in the neighborhood of Hebron. There are extensive vineyards at Hebron, and their grapes are larger and finer than in most places in the Holy Land. The clusters are often very long, but nobody in these modern days has ever seen them so large that it would require the strength of two men to carry one of them.
"The Bible does not say that it required their strength to carry this burden. Read the passage in Numbers xiii. 23, and you will find it says, they 'cut down from thence a branch with one cluster of grapes, and they bare it between two upon a staff; and they brought of the pomegranates, and of the figs.' Remember that a bunch of grapes cannot be carried in a sack like pomegranates and figs, but must be suspended, so as to preserve the fruit from injury. The spies had a long way to travel, and there was no other mode of transporting the fruit of the vines of Eshcol than the one described."
The guide called attention to the village of Shafut, a little distance from the route, and said it was supposed by some to occupy the site of the ancient Mizpeh. A little farther along on the other side of the road was a rounded hill, which has been identified by some writers as the site of Nob, mentioned several times in the Old Testament. Beyond it is Tuliel-el-Ful (Hill of Beans), where once stood Gibeah, the scene of several important incidents described in Judges, Samuel, and other books of the Bible. Doctor Bronson said it was quite probable that the meeting of David and Jonathan took place in the valley between these two points, and the scriptural account certainly carries out his theory.
They passed Er-Ram, which corresponds to the Ramah of Benjamin (1 Kings