CHAPTER XXXII.

DAMASCUS TO BEYROOT.--THE RUINS OF BAALBEC.--FAREWELL. 425

ILLUSTRATIONS.

A Scene in Egypt. _Frontispiece._ Coast of the Red Sea. 13 View in Jeddah, on the Red Sea. 17 Captain Burton in Native Dress. 19 Encampment of Pilgrims at Mount Arafat, near Mecca. 20 View of Medina (from a Drawing by a Native Artist). 21 Scene near Suez. 22 Travelling in the Sinai Desert. 23 A Shop in Suez. 25 The Northern End of the Gulf of Suez. 26 "Ayoon Moosa"--the Wells of Moses. 28 Preaching in a Mosque. 29 A Landing-place on the Fresh-water Canal. 31 Oriental Ships of Ancient Times. 32 Ferdinand De Lesseps. 34 Suez Canal and Eastern Egypt. 35 Night Scene on Lake Menzaleh. 37 Camel and Young. 38 Desert Scene in Eastern Egypt. 40 The Modern Shadoof. 41 An Ancient Shadoof. 42 A Sakkieh, or Water-wheel. 42 A Ploughman at Work. 43 An Ancient Plough. 44 An Egyptian Thrashing-machine. 45 Ancient Process of Treading out the Corn. 45 Egyptian Lentils. 46 The Pyramids. 47 A Question of Backsheesh. 48 A Street in Cairo. 50 A Projecting Window. 51 A Caliph of Egypt on his Throne. 53 Part of Old Cairo. 54 A Peddler of Jewellery. 56 A Lady in Street Dress. 57 A Woman Carrying Water. 57 The Fountain of a Mosque. 58 A Beggar at the Way-side. 59 A Man Carrying his Keys. 60 An Oriental Band of Music. 61 The Nay (Flute) and Case. 62 Ancient Egyptian Playing the Nay. 62 The Tamboora. 63 A Darabookah. 63 Coffee-pot and Cups. 64 Oriental Shopkeeper Examining his Books. 65 Interior of a Caravansary. 66 Gate-way of a Caravansary. 67 A Street in a Bazaar at Cairo. 68 Shopping Scene in the Hamzowee. 70 Eastern Necklaces. 71 Weighing Gold in the Jewellers' Bazaar. 71 Kitchen Utensils. 73 Basin and Ewer. 74 Bottle for Rose-water. 75 Oriental Guns. 75 Bab-el-Nasr. 76 Street Scene near the Bab-el-Nasr. 77 The Mosque of Tooloon. 78 Mihrab, Pulpit, and Candlestick in a Mosque. 79 A Begging Dervish. 81 A Whirling Dervish. 82 Performance of the Whirling Dervishes. 83 A Whirler in full Action. 84 Arabic Writing, with Impression of a Seal. 85 Scene in a Primary School. 86 Instruction at Home. 87 Entrance to the El-Azhar. 88 Professors of the El-Azhar. 89 The Citadel, Cairo, with Mosque of Mohammed Ali. 90 View from the Citadel, Cairo. 92 The Tombs of the Caliphs. 94 The Tomb of Keit Bey. 95 The Ferry at Old Cairo. 96 The Dress of an Egyptian King. Form of Crown and Aprons. 98 Menes. 99 Rameses II., from an Inscription. 99 Meneptah, the supposed Pharaoh of the Exodus. 100 The Name of Egypt in Hieroglyphics. 101 Ptolemy in Hieroglyphics. 101 The Rosetta Stone, with Specimen Lines from the Inscription. 102 Specimens of the Three Forms of Writing Used by the Egyptians. 102 Dedication of the Pylon of a Temple. 103 Egyptian Sculptors at Work. 104 Wooden Statue Found at Sakkara. 105 Wooden Dolls. 106 Children's Toys. 107 Positions in Playing Ball. 107 Balls of Leather and Porcelain. 108 Playing Ball Mounted. 108 Playing Checkers. 109 Sand-bag Exercise. 109 A Bull-fight. 110 Goddesses of Truth and Justice. 110 The Name of Apis, an Egyptian God, in Hieroglyphics. 111 King and Queen Offering to the Gods. 111 Different Forms of Mummy Cases. 112 Transporting a Mummy on a Sledge. 112 Goddess of Truth, with her Eyes Closed. 113 Lady's Head-dress on a Mummy Case. 113 Rings, Bracelets, and Scarabæi. 114 Stone Scarabæus with Wings. 114 Jeweller with Blow-pipe. 115 Egyptian Goldsmiths (from a Painting at Thebes). 115 Golden Baskets (from the Tomb of Rameses III.). 116 Dresses of Women of Ancient Egypt. 116 Camels and their Burdens. 117 Old Mode of Transport on the Nile. 118 Near View of the Pyramids. 119 The Battle of the Pyramids.--"Forty centuries look down on you". 121 Egyptian Captives Employed at Hard Labor. 122 Removing Stone from the Quarries. 123 Cutting and Squaring Blocks of Stone. 124 Section of the Great Pyramid. 125 The Sphinx. 126 The Sphinx by Moonlight. 127 Egyptian Captives Making Bricks. 128 Ploughing and Sowing. 129 Taking it Easy. 129 A Hunting Scene. 130 Bronze Figure of Apis. 131 Huntsman with Dogs and Game. 131 An Arched Tomb at Sakkara. 132 Central Room of the Bath. 134 The Man who didn't Like it. 135 The Barber. 137 The Bath among the Ancient Egyptians. 138 A Khatibeh, or Marriage-broker. 140 Preparing for the Wedding. 141 A Marriage Procession at Night. 142 Unveiling the Bride. 143 Blind Musicians among the Ancient Egyptians. 144 View on the Nile near Cairo. 145 Ancient Boat on the Nile. 146 A Village on the Bank of the River. 148 General View of an Eastern City. 149 A Plague of Flies. 151 A Kangia. 151 The Captain. 152 A Gourd Raft. 154 The Raft seen from Below. 154 View on a Sugar Plantation. 156 Interior of a Sugar-mill. 158 A Secure Point of View. 159 Interior of a Tomb at Beni-Hassan. 161 Section of a Tomb. 162 Spinning and Weaving. 163 Artists at Work. 164 Fishing Scene at Beni-Hassan. 164 An Ancient Donkey. 165 A Respectable Citizen. 165 An Old Inhabitant. 166 A Scene near Sioot. 167 A Scene in the Bazaars. 168 Room in an Oriental House. 170 An Oriental Gentleman. 170 An Egyptian Lamp. 171 Pigeon-houses. 173 The Oriental Pigeon. 173 A Watchman's Booth. 174 Inflated Skin Raft (from Assyrian Sculpture). 174 An Ancient Life-preserver. 175 Modern "Keleks," or Skin Rafts. 176 Girgeh. 177 Scene during the Inundation. 178 A Camel on his way to Pasture. 179 Heads of Captives of Rameses II. 180 A Lunch-party of Other Days. 181 Ancient Potters at Work. 183 Ancient Vases, Cups, and Water-jars. 184 Date-palms, near Keneh. 185 Ancient Dancers and Musicians. 186 A Modern Musician. 186 An Egyptian King on his Throne. 187 Front of the Temple at Denderah. 188 Egyptian Prince Carried in a Palanquin. 189 A Complete Egyptian Temple. 191 A "Baris," or Funeral-boat. 192 An Egyptian War-chariot of Ancient Times. 194 Luxor from the Water. 195 Entrance to the Temple of Luxor. 197 Approach to Karnak from Luxor. 198 The Great Hall of Karnak. 199 Grand Court-yard of the Temple. 200 A Body of Archers. 201 Making a List of Captives. 201 Obelisk and part of Grand Hall at Karnak. 202 Egyptian Soldiers. 203 Dry Footing. 204 Ruins in Old Thebes. 205 Grand Hall of the Memnonium. 206 View in the Memnonium, with Ruined Statue of Rameses the Great. 207 The Phalanx of the Sheta. 208 Medinet Aboo. 209 An Egyptian War-boat. 210 The Colossi during an Inundation. 211 Egyptian Priests clad in Leopard-skins. 212 Rear View of the Colossi, with Luxor in the Distance. 213 Sacred Musicians, and a Priest Offering Incense. 214 Valley of the Tombs of the Kings. 215 View in Belzoni's Tomb. 216 An Egyptian Harper. 219 A Chair from Bruce's Tomb. 220 Section of Papyrus. 222 Coffin and Mummy of a Royal Princess. 223 Coffin of Queen Nofretari. 224 Coffin of Rameses II. 225 An Oriental Lady at Home. 226 Eastern Ladies Listening to Music. 228 An Oriental Dancing Girl. 230 An Eastern Story-teller. 231 A Reception in a Harem. 233 Sculptures Mutilated by the Persians. 234 A Thing of Beauty. 235 View in the Temple of Edfoo. 236 Hagar Silsilis. 237 The Foot of the First Cataract. 238 The Ship of the Desert. 241 Bedouin Arabs with their Camel Herds. 242 Camels (from an Assyrian Sculpture). 243 A Bactrian Camel in Good Condition. 243 Foot and Stomach of the Camel. 244 Head of a Camel. 244 The Dromedary Regiment of Napoleon I. 245 View of Philæ from the Head of the Cataract. 247 The Bank of the River below Philæ. 248 Pharaoh's Bed and the Ruins of the Temple. 249 View from Philæ, looking Up the River. 250 The Papyrus Jungles of the Nile. 251 An Ancient Poultry-shop. 253 An Arab and his Camel. 255 Colossal Heads in Front of the Temple of Abou Simbel. 256 Public Square at Khartoom. 258 Egyptian Soldiers on Camels. 259 The Barrage of the Nile. 262 General View of Alexandria. 262 Cleopatra's Needle at Alexandria. 264 Pompey's Pillar. 265 View of Alexandria from the Sea. 266 Front of an Eastern Summer-house. 268 One of the Dragomen. 269 Joppa. 271 A Second-class Horse. 272 The City Gate of Jaffa. 273 Women at a Well. 275 Public Fountain at Jerusalem. 276 One of the Wells of Beersheba, with its Watering-troughs. 277 Interior of a Cistern. 278 Cistern Under the Temple of Jerusalem. 278 A Syrian Horseman. 280 The Tower of Ramleh (from Thomson's "The Land and the Book"). 282 Road in the Foot-hills. 284 View of Jerusalem from the East. 285 Plan of Jerusalem. 287 The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 290 Ground-plan of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 291 The Holy Sepulchre. 292 Ancient Arch in Jerusalem. 295 Arms of Jerusalem. 297 Knights of St Catherine. 297 The Via Dolorosa. 298 The Damascus Gate. 299 View of the Mosque of Omar and the Mount of Olives. 301 Wall at South-east Corner of the Temple Area. 303 Wailing-place of the Jews. 304 The Pool of Bethesda. 306 The Pool of Siloam. 307 Quarries Under Jerusalem. 308 View on the Mount of Olives. 311 Gethsemane. 312 A Sycamore-tree. 313 The Road from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. 315 The Tomb of Rachel. 316 Entrance to Bethlehem. 317 View in Bethlehem. 319 Interior of the Church of the Nativity. 321 The Place of the Nativity. 322 The Manger. 323 Adoration of the Wise Men. 323 The Flight into Egypt. 324 An Arab Encampment. 327 A Bedouin Sheik. 328 Modern Bedouins of Mount Sinai. 329 Scene in the Wilderness. 330 An Arab Guard in Palestine. 331 Mar Saba (from Thomson's "The Land and the Book"). 332 Russian Pilgrims in the Holy Land. 334 Road to the Dead Sea. 334 The Dead Sea from the North. 335 Map of the Dead Sea. 337 Lynch's Expedition to the Dead Sea. 338 Lynch's Levelling Party. 339 The Cavern of Usdum. 340 Reeds and Rushes on the Jordan. 342 An Arab Skirmish in the Land of Moab. 343 Bathing-place of the Pilgrims (from Thomson's "The Land and the Book"). 345 Source of the Jordan. 347 Passage of the Israelites. 347 Map of the Jordan. 348 Recent Aspect of the Plain of Jericho. 350 Ain-es-Sultan, or Fountain of Elisha (from Thomson's "The Land and the Book"). 351 The Village of Bethany. 353 The Hotel-keeper. 355 Scene on the Overland Route from Jerusalem. 357 By Babel's Stream. 358 The Grapes of Eshcol. 359 Hebron. 360 Street Scene in Bireh. 362 A Native Group at a Fountain. 363 Beasts of Burden. 365 Roof of a House in Nabulus. 366 The Woman of Samaria. 367 View of Nabulus. 369 An Ancient Olive-press. 370 Women Working an Olive-press. 370 Ancient Lamps (Matt. xxv. 1). 371 Modern Lamps. 371 Samaritans Bearing Tribute--an Assyrian Sculpture (2 Kings xvii. 3). 372 Sebustieh, the Ancient Samaria. 374 View of Jenin, the Ancient Engannim. 376 Map of the Valley of Esdraelon. 377 The Plan of Nazareth. 378 View of Nazareth. 380 The Annunciation. 382 The Country near Nazareth, with the Town in the Distance. 383 Home of a Cave-hermit in Palestine. 386 Mount Tabor. 387 Distant View of Kefr Kenna. 388 The City and Lake of Tiberias. 390 Map of the Sea of Galilee. 392 Magdala and Plain of Gennesaret. 393 Herod's Plan of Attack. 394 Battle with the Robbers. 395 A Galilee Fishing-boat. 396 Ruins at Tell Hum. 397 View of the Lake from the Western Shore. 398 The Rock Partridge. 399 The Plain of Huleh. 400 Huts near Lake Huleh. 401 An Army of Kedesh. 402 Head-spring of the Jordan near Hasbeiyah. 405 Map of the Sources of the Jordan. 406 Terebinth-tree at Banias. 406 Substructions of the Castle of Banias. 407 View from the Castle of Banias. 409 A Street in Damascus. 410 General View of Damascus. 411 Interior of a House in Damascus. 413 Bedouin Camp near Damascus. 416 A Scene in Damascus. 419 Portrait of Abd-el-Kader. 420 Sword-blades of Damascus. 421 Damask Goods. 422 Attack on the Citadel of Damascus before the Invention of Gunpowder. 423 Paul Led into Damascus. 424 A Caravan near Damascus. 425 The River among the Rocks. 426 The Fijeh Source of the Abana. 427 The Ruins of Baalbec. 429 Modern Wine-press. 431 Bridge Over the Litany. 432 The Cedars of Lebanon. 433 View of Beyroot, looking toward the Harbor. 435 Mission School in Syria. 436 Fountain at Beyroot. 437 Lebanon. 438 MAP OF EGYPT. _Front Cover._ MAP OF THE HOLY LAND. _Back Cover._