CHAPTER XXXI.

SIGHTS AND SCENES IN CANTON. 408

ILLUSTRATIONS.

A Japanese Swimming-scene. Reproduced from a Painting by a Japanese Artist _Frontispiece_.

PAGE Mr. Bassett has Decided 17 Mary 18 Mary Thinking what she would Like from Japan 19 Overland by Stage in the Olden Time 20 Overland by Rail in a Pullman Car 21 Cooking-range in the Olden Time 24 Cooking range on a Pullman Car 24 Change for a Dollar--Before and After 25 Kathleen's Expectations for Frank and Fred 26 Effie Waiting for Somebody 28 Good-bye 29 Watering-place on the Erie Railway 30 The Course of Empire 31 Valley of the Neversink 32 Starucca Viaduct 33 Niagara Falls, from the American Side 34 Entrance to the Cave of the Winds 36 From Chicago to San Francisco 38 Omaha 39 Attacked by Indians 41 Herd of Buffaloes Moving 42 An Old Settler 43 "End of Track" 44 Snow-sheds on the Pacific Railway 45 View at Cape Horn, Central Pacific Railway 46 Seal-rocks, San Francisco 47 Departure from San Francisco 48 Dropping the Pilot 49 The Golden Gate 50 In the Fire-room 51 The Engineer at his Post 53 The Wind Rising 55 Spouts 57 Whale-ship Outward Bound 57 Captain Spofford Telling his Story 58 New Bedford 59 Sperm-whale 60 "There she blows!" 61 Implements Used in Whaling 62 Whale "Breaching" 63 In the Whale's Jaw 64 Captain Hunting's Fight 66 A Game Fellow 67 A Free Ride 68 Captain Sammis Selling Out 70 Shooting at a Water-spout 71 Frank Studying Navigation 73 Working up a Reckoning 75 View in the Bay of Yeddo 76 Japanese Junk and Boats 77 A Japanese Imperial Barge 78 Japanese Government Boat 79 Yokohama in 1854 81 A Japanese Street Scene 84 Japanese Musicians 86 Japanese Fishermen 87 "Sayonara" 88 Japanese Silk-shop 89 Seven-stroke Horse 90 Female Head-dress 91 The Siesta 91 A Japanese at his Toilet for a Visit of Ceremony 92 A Japanese Breakfast 95 Mutsuhito, Mikado of Japan 97 Landing of Perry's Expedition 98 The Last Shogoon of Japan 99 Third-class Passengers 102 Japanese Ploughing 103 Japanese Roller 104 Manuring Process 104 How they Use Manure 105 Mode of Protecting Land from Birds 106 Storks, Drawn by a Native Artist 106 Flock of Geese 107 Forts of Shinagawa 108 A Jin-riki-sha 109 Japanese on Foot 111 An Express Runner 112 A Japanese Coolie 113 Pity for the Blind 114 View of Tokio, from the South 115 Japanese Lady Coming from the Bath 116 Fire-lookouts in Tokio 117 Too Much Sa-kee 118 Sakuradu Avenue in Tokio 119 Japanese Children at Play 121 The Feast of Dolls ("Hina Matsuri") in a Japanese House 122 A Barber at Work 123 A Transaction in Clothes 124 Ball-playing in Japan 125 Sport at Asakusa 126 Spire of a Pagoda 127 Belfry in Court-yard of Temple, showing the Style of a Japanese Roof 128 Shrine of the Goddess Ku-wanon 130 Praying-machine 132 Archery Attendant 134 A Japanese Flower-show. Night Scene 135 A Christening in Japan 137 A Wedding Party 138 Strolling Singers at Asakusa 139 View from Suruga Dai in Tokio 140 A Child's Nurse 140 Lovers Behind a Screen. A Painting on Silk Exhibited at the Tokio Fair 141 Blacksmith's Bellows 142 A Grass Overcoat 143 A High-priest in Full Costume 145 A Japanese Temple 146 A Wayside Shrine 148 The Great Kosatsu, near the Nihon Basin 150 Blowing Bubbles 151 Father and Children 153 Caught in the Rain 155 A Village on the Tokaido 157 A Party on the Tokaido 159 Beginning of Relations between England and Japan 161 Pilgrims on the Road 162 Threshing Grain 163 Peasant and his Wife Returning from the Field 164 A Japanese Sandal 165 The Great Dai-Boots 166 Salutation of the Landlord 168 The Head Waiter Receiving Orders 168 A Japanese Kitchen 170 Boiling the Pot 171 Frank's Inventory 172 How the Japanese Sleep 173 A Japanese Fishing Scene 175 "Breakfast is ready" 176 Interior of a Tea-garden 178 The Path in Enoshima 179 A Group of Japanese Ladies 181 Specimen of Grotesque Drawing by a Japanese Artist 182 Bettos, or "Grooms," in Full Dress 185 A Japanese Loom 188 Artists at Work 189 Coopers Hooping a Vat 190 Crossing the River 192 Mother and Son 193 A Fishing Party 194 The Man they Met 196 Travelling by Cango 198 Japanese Norimon 199 Frank's Position 200 Hot Bath in the Mountains 201 A Japanese Bath 202 The Lake of Hakone 203 Antics of the Horses 206 A Near View of Fusiyama 207 In a Storm near Fusiyama 208 Ascent of Fusiyama 211 The Four Classes of Society 216 Two-sworded Nobles 218 A Samurai in Winter Dress 219 Beheading a Criminal 221 Japanese Court in the Old Style 224 Japanese Naval Officer 225 Japanese Steam Corvette 225 A Japanese War-junk of the Olden Time 226 A Japanese Wrestler 228 A Pair of Wrestlers and their Manager 230 The Clinch 231 Japanese Actor Dressed as a Doctor 233 The Samisen 234 Playing the Samisen 235 Scene from a Japanese Comedy.--Writing a Letter of Divorce 236 Scene from a Japanese Comedy.--Love-letter Discovered 237 Telling the Story of Bumbuku Chagama 238 Frank's Purchase 240 Japanese Pattern-designer 241 Fan-makers at Work 241 Chinese Cloisonné on Metal 242 Japanese Cloisonné on Metal 243 Japanese Bowl 243 Cover of Japanese Bowl 244 Chinese Metal Vase 246 Modern Japanese Cloisonné on Metal 247 Japanese Metal Cloisonné 248 Chinese Porcelain Cloisonné 248 Group Carved in Ivory 249 Japanese Pipe, Case, and Pouch 249 Japanese Artist Chasing on Copper 251 A Japanese Village.--Bamboo Poles Ready for Market 252 A Japanese Lady's-maid 254 Bride and Bridesmaid 255 Merchant's Family 255 Mysteries of the Dressing-room 256 Lady in Winter Walking-dress 257 A Girl who had never Seen a Dressing-pin 259 Ladies' Hair-dresser 260 Ladies at their Toilet 261 Japanese Ladies on a Picnic 262 Ladies and Children at Play 263 Flying Kites 264 A Village in the Tea District 266 Tea-merchants in the Interior 267 The Tea-plant 268 Firing Tea 269 Hiogo (Kobe) 270 The Junk at Anchor 271 The Helmsman at his Post 272 Japanese Sailors at Dinner 273 Junk Sailors on Duty 274 View from the Hotel 276 The Castle of Osaka 277 Vignette from the National Bank-notes 280 Imperial Crest for Palace Affairs 281 Imperial Crest on the New Coins 281 Old Kinsat, or Money-card 282 Ichi-boo 282 Vignette from Bank-note 283 Vignette from Bank-note 283 Men Towing Boats near Osaka 284 Mode of Holding the Tow-ropes 284 The Ferry-boat 285 The Hotel-maid 285 A Japanese Landscape 286 Dikes along the River 287 Night Scene near Fushimi 288 Women of Kioto 289 Ladies of the Western Capital 292 Restaurant and Tea-garden at Kioto 294 An Artist at Work 295 Lantern-maker at Kioto 295 A Japanese Archer 297 Temple Bell at Kioto 298 Reeling Cotton 298 Japanese Temple and Cemetery 299 Handcart for a Quartette 300 Horse Carrying Liquid Manure 301 The Paternal Nurse 301 Picnic Booth Overlooking Lake Biwa 302 A Maker of Bows 302 The Inland Sea near Hiogo 303 Approaching Simoneseki 304 Dangerous Place on the Suwo Nada 304 Pappenberg Island 305 Women of Nagasaki 306 A Christian Village in the Sixteenth Century 307 Monuments in Memory of Martyrs 308 A Path near Nagasaki 309 Hollander at Deshima Watching for a Ship 310 The Rain Dragon 311 The Wind Dragon 312 The Thunder Dragon 312 A Typhoon 314 Course of a Typhoon 316 Caught near the Storm's Centre 317 The Woosung River 318 Chinese Trading-junk on the Woosung River 319 Shanghai 321 A Coolie in the Streets of Shanghai 322 A Tea-house in the Country 324 Smoking Opium 324 Opium-pipe 325 Man Blinded by the Use of Opium 326 Chinese Gentleman in a Sedan 327 Canal Scene South of Shanghai 328 A Chinese Family Party 330 A Gentleman of Chin-kiang 331 Chinese Spectacles 332 Ploughing with a Buffalo 333 Threshing Grain near Chin-kiang 333 Carrying Bundles of Grain 334 A River Scene in China 335 A Nine-storied Pagoda 337 Little Orphan Rock 337 Entrance to Po-yang Lake 338 Tae-ping Rebels 340 General Ward 342 The Gate which Ward Attacked 343 General Burgevine 344 Fishing with Cormorants 347 A Street in Han-kow 349 Wo-chang 350 The Governor-general and his Staff 351 Attack on the Pei-ho Forts 353 Temple of the Sea-god at Taku 355 A Chinese Beggar 355 Signing the Treaty of Tien-tsin 356 Mode of Irrigating Fields 359 The Doctor's Bedroom 360 Part of the Wall of Pekin 361 A Pekin Cab 362 A Composite Team 363 A Chinese Dragon 364 A Pavilion in the Prohibited City 366 Temple of Heaven 367 Pekin Cash 367 Traditional Likeness of Confucius 368 God of War 368 God of Literature 368 God of Thieves 368 A Mandarin Judge Delivering Sentence 369 Squeezing the Fingers 371 Squeezing the Ankles 371 A Bed of Torture 372 Four Modes of Punishment 373 Standing in a Cage 374 Hot-water Snake 374 Carrying Forth to the Place of Execution 375 Just Before Decapitation 375 Military Candidates Competing with the Bow and Arrow 376 Walking on Stilts 378 Juggler Spinning a Plate 379 Gambling with a Revolving Pointer 379 Fortune-telling by Means of a Bird and Slips of Paper 380 Fortune-telling by Dissecting Chinese Characters 381 Chinese Razor 382 Barber Shaving the Head of a Customer 382 Bridge of the Cloudy Hills 383 The God of the Kitchen 384 A Lama 385 The Hills near Chan-kia-kow 386 Specimen of Chinese Writing 389 Four Illustrations of the Chinese Version of "Excelsior" 393 Barracoons at Macao 394 Coolies Embarking at Macao 395 Enraged Coolie 396 A Deadly Fall 396 Firing Down the Hatchway 397 The Writing in Blood 398 The Interpreters 399 Hong-kong 401 Fac-simile of a Hong-kong Mille, Dime, and Cent 403 Fort in Canton River 404 Gateway of Temple near Canton 406 Street Scene in Canton 410 Five-storied Pagoda 412 Horseshoe or Omega Grave 413 Presenting Food to the Spirits of the Dead 414 A Leper 414 A Literary Student 415 A Literary Graduate in his Robes of Honor 415 A Sedan-chair with Four Bearers 416 A Small Foot with a Shoe on it 417 Peasant-woman with Natural Feet 417 A Tablet Carved in Ivory 419 "Good-bye!" 421