CHAPTER VII.

DESCRIPTION OF QUITO.--VISIT TO THE VOLCANO OF PICHINCHA.--THE DEEPEST CRATER IN THE WORLD.--ROUTE OVER THE ANDES TO THE AMAZON.--RETURN TO THE COAST.

The journey from Bodegas to Quito had exhausted the strength of our friends, and they were quite willing to rest in the hotel during the first evening of their stay in the capital. The time was improved by a study of the history of the city, and when they started out the next morning they were well stocked with information.

"Nobody now living can tell how old Quito is," said the Doctor; "it was founded many centuries ago by the Quitas or Quichas, and its early history is buried in obscurity. According to some traditions it is nearly two thousand years old. It is positively known to have existed about 1000 A.D., when it was captured by the Cara nation, who were more civilized than the Quitas.

"About the year 1475 it was conquered by Peru, and was made the capital; it retained that honor until captured by Pizarro in his famous conquest, and the glory of Atahnalpa, then its ruler, was extinguished forever. If you wish to know in detail of the romantic history and tragic fate of Atahualpa, the son of Huayna-Capac, you can find it in Prescott's 'Conquest of Peru.'"

"I remember, in my school history," said Fred, "it was said that Atahualpa was imprisoned by Pizarro, and offered to fill with gold the room where he was confined, on condition of receiving his liberty. He filled the room as agreed, but was afterwards put to death by order of Pizarro."

"The story does not rest on very good authority," said the Doctor; "but the conduct reported of Pizarro is quite in keeping with the character of the Spanish conquerors of the New World. Pizarro's biographer says he was guilty of the greatest cruelties and perfidies in the acquisition of gold, but he distributed it freely among his followers, and spent most of the vast treasures obtained from the Incas in the erection of public buildings and other improvements for the general benefit. That he was a brave man is shown by the fact that the conquest of Peru was undertaken, and successfully accomplished, with a force of three vessels, one hundred and eighty men, and twenty-seven horses."

"And all this country was captured with such a mere 'handful of men!'" exclaimed Frank.

"Yes," replied Dr. Bronson, "that was the force with which Pizarro left Panama, though it was afterwards increased by the arrival of recruits. Pizarro received a royal commission from the King of Spain, with a title of nobility. His descendants may now be found at Truxillo, in Spain, and they point with pride to their great ancestor, whose education was so neglected that he was unable to read or write.

"Quito was a more magnificent city under the Incas of Peru than it has ever been since the Spanish conquest. The extent of its population is not known, but it was certainly larger than to-day. The palace of Atahualpa was one of the finest in South America, and its roof is said to have been covered with gold. All the gold of the city was seized by the Spaniards, and the palace was destroyed. A convent now occupies its site, and we will look at its gloomy walls to-morrow. The magnificent Temple of the Sun is reduced to a few stones which mark the spot where it stood."

With a running conversation concerning the history of Ecuador the evening went on until it was time to go to bed. All retired early, and were up betimes to inspect the wonderful city they had toiled so hard to see.

"We are not in the highest city of the globe," said Fred in his note-book, "but we are two thousand feet farther above the sea than is the Hospice of St. Bernard, the most elevated spot in Europe which is inhabited all the year round. According to our barometers, and those of other travellers, we are 9520 feet above the beach of the Pacific Ocean at its nearest point, or only 1040 feet less than two miles.

"Cooking is performed under difficulties, as water boils at 194 deg. Fahrenheit; potatoes, beans, and similar things require much longer time for cooking than in the lowlands, and somebody says it is an excellent provision of nature that the potatoes are small. Frank suggests that when a traveller among mountains has no thermometer or barometer he can ascertain his elevation by observing how long it takes to boil a potato of a given size.

"We started out of the hotel escorted by a guide who was to show us the sights of Quito. The streets are not crowded, and nobody seems to be in a hurry; there are many beggars, and some of them were very persistent, as is generally the case with beggars all over the world when strangers come within their reach. The water-carriers seem to form quite a class, and we were forcibly reminded of the same professionals of Cairo. There was this difference, however, that the latter transport their merchandise in skins, while those of Quito carry enormous jars on their shoulders or backs. They fill these jars at the public fountains, and then start off at a slow trot to supply the houses that employ them. We met a great many monks and priests, whose calling could be recognized at a considerable distance by their peculiar robes and the enormous hats which covered their heads. Quito is eminently a city of priests, and is liberally provided with churches and convents for its population of forty or fifty thousand.

"Donkeys and mules are the beasts of burden, and occasionally some of them brushed against us with their loads, that projected far on each side. But they do not have a monopoly of the carrying trade, as we saw a good many Indians laden with baskets of vegetables and fruit from the neighboring country, and they appear to be as strong as the donkeys, if we may judge by their great loads. Many of these porters are women, and in some instances we saw men, without burdens, walking by the side of women carrying baskets large enough to be a load for two persons. Evidently the aborigines of Ecuador are no believers in the exemption of women from hard work.

"There is probably little resemblance between the Quito of to-day and that of Atahualpa and the Spanish conquest. The city had suffered much from earthquakes, and was partially destroyed by fire; the Spanish conquerors founded a new Quito in 1534, and laid out the streets on lines of their own, and, since their advent, the earthquakes have again shaken it to its foundations. There were severe and destructive shocks in 1797 and 1859, and another in 1868. In the one last mentioned many lives were lost, numerous buildings were thrown down, and, according to the official report, every house in the city was so shaken and weakened that not one was fit to live in. Half a dozen churches, the government buildings, and the archbishop's palace were wholly or partially demolished, such of them as were not thrown down being so weakened as to render their removal necessary.

"In almost every street there are piles of ruins, and it is a wonder people will continue to live here with the effects of the earthquake so constantly before them. Nearly all the houses are of but a single story, and the most ambitious of the edifices rarely exceeds two stories. Most of the streets are narrow and have channels in the centre, through which streams of water flow during and after a rain. We observed a great variety in the costumes of the people, and were told that every district had its distinct way of coloring its garments, so that its inhabitants could be distinguished from others. Occasionally we saw people with hardly any clothing whatever; but the absence of wardrobe was made up by a free use of paint. The natives thus decorated were from the eastern slopes of the Andes, but they did not appear to be numerous.

"The common houses have no fireplaces or chimneys; fires are built almost anywhere on the earthern floor, and the smoke is allowed to get out the best way it can. Even in our hotel the kitchen is little more than a dark hole, where the pots and kettles are so indiscriminately assembled that the cooks are liable to mix things up fearfully, while preparing a meal. Neatness is not fashionable, and there is no country in the world where the appetite would suffer more discouragement than here by a revelation of the culinary mysteries.

"Our guide called attention to the distinction among the men on the streets, some of them wearing cloaks and others _ponchos_. No gentleman would wear a poncho in public any more than a Frenchman of the middle or upper classes would don a blouse for a promenade. The poncho is far the more picturesque of the two garments, and I am inclined to think its wearers are more comfortable than the genteel part of the population. Ladies wear the _panuelon_, which corresponds to the Spanish mantilla, and they eschew hats and bonnets altogether. The only head-covering beyond the hair is a lace veil or a fold of the panuelon; but its use is by no means obligatory. It is said that when the daughter of an American minister-resident wore a bonnet in the cathedral on the Sunday following her arrival, she was criticised as severely as she would be for wearing a masculine 'stove-pipe' in a New York church.

"A gentleman who has lived here for some time says there are about eight thousand people of Spanish origin in Quito, ten or twelve thousand Indians of pure blood, and perhaps twenty thousand _cholos_ or mixed races. Then there are a few foreigners and negroes, and other few who cannot be readily classified. The whites are the aristocracy or ruling race, and, owing to the numerous revolutions which have reduced the male population, women outnumber the men. For a white man to work would be degrading, and many a gentleman will not hesitate to beg for a dinner or a cup of coffee, though he would scorn to earn the money to pay for it. The poverty-stricken hidalgo of Spain is no more proud of his lineage than is the Spanish-descended resident of Quito, who wraps his tattered cloak around him, and comforts himself with reflections upon the past glories of his family.

"In the course of our wanderings we came to the bank of the river which flows past Quito. It is an insignificant stream, ordinarily, but swells to a torrent at certain seasons of the year, when the rains fall in the neighboring mountains. Laundresses were at work at their trade, and from the way the linen of Quito is washed, it is certain to need frequent renewal. The garments are dipped in the river, and then spread on the rocks, where they are pounded with mallets or bowlders until the desired condition of cleanliness is attained. It reminded us of the way the Bengalee _dhobies_ at Madras washed our clothing, and accounts for the large importation of cotton goods into Ecuador in proportion to the population.

"While we were passing a potato-field Dr. Bronson reminded us that we might consider ourselves near the birthplace of an intimate friend.

"We tried to think what friend of ours was born in Quito, but could not remember any. We said so to the Doctor, and he then explained that the one he referred to was the potato.

"'Certainly,' exclaimed Frank, 'I remember, now you mention it, that the potato was found at Quito by the Spaniards and taken by them to Europe early in the sixteenth century. From Spain it was carried to Germany, France, Belgium, and Italy, and last of all to Ireland, where it was introduced by Sir Walter Raleigh on his estate near Cork.'

"'You are quite right,' said the Doctor. 'The so-called "Irish potato" is really a native of South America.'

"'The descendant is worthier than the parent,' Frank remarked, as he pointed to the potato-field we were passing. 'The potato of Ireland and of the United States is much larger and finer than that of Ecuador. Cultivation in a foreign land has done a great deal for this vegetable.'

"We both agreed with him, as we had already remarked the diminutive size of the potatoes of Quito. The same comment applies to the cherries, pears, peaches, strawberries, and tomatoes, which do not seem to enjoy the climate, but there are other fruits and vegetables that get along better. The finest fruit here is the _chirimoya_; its name comes from _chiri_ (cold), and _moya_ (seed). It grows in Peru and other parts of South America as well as in Ecuador; the fruit often reaches a weight of sixteen pounds, and has a thick green skin enclosing a snow-white pulp, in which about seventy black seeds are imbedded. Professor Orton says its taste is a happy admixture of sweetness and acidity; Hamke calls it 'a masterwork of nature;' and another traveller describes it as 'a spiritualized strawberry.' We have tried to find a description of it, but must fall back upon that of our predecessors. Dr. Holmes says all the pens in the world cannot tell how the birds sing and the lilacs swell; no more can we give in words a satisfactory account of this prince among fruits.

"But all the time, during our walk through and around Quito, we find ourselves every few minutes fixing our eyes on the great peaks of the Andes and Cordilleras that rise around us. We are in the centre of the most volcanic region of the globe; there are fifty-one volcanoes in the chain of the Andes, and out of this number no less than twenty surround the valley where Quito stands. Three of the twenty are active, five are dormant, and twelve are extinct; they are all in a space two hundred miles long and thirty wide, and in addition to these volcanoes there are many other peaks not strictly volcanic. There are twenty-two mountains whose tops are covered with perpetual snow, and fifty that are each more than ten thousand feet high. Do you wonder that while looking at the city our thoughts are drawn towards the mountains in whose midst it is built?"

In the evening our friends arranged to visit the summit of Pichincha, the volcano which towers above Quito, and is easily reached. Mules can be ridden to the very edge of the crater, but there are not a dozen gentlemen of Quito who have ever made the journey to it; they are intending to do so at some future time, and this future never comes. Apart from the guides, it is probable that the mountain has been ascended more frequently by strangers than by native-born residents of the city.

Our party started from Quito in the afternoon, accompanied by two guides, and rode to a Jesuit monastery in the valley of Lloa, where they passed the night. Rising at daybreak the next morning, they rode through the forest which surrounds the mountain, up to the timber line, twelve thousand feet above the sea; the path was intricate and very difficult, as it was frequently blocked by fallen trees and obstructed by huge stones, which it was necessary to pass around. From the timber line they passed into a belt of stunted bushes, and then reached the point where vegetation ceases.

Here it was less laborious travelling, but by no means easy. By nine in the forenoon they were at the foot of the cone, where they left the mules in the care of one of the guides and finished the ascent on foot.

Frank and Fred were of different opinions; the former declared the cone easier of ascent than that of Vesuvius, while the latter thought it was not. But they agreed that there was less of it than of the cone of Vesuvius, and therefore it was preferable; it was little more than two hundred feet high, and covered with sand and cinders at an incline of about thirty-five degrees. They had many slips and falls, but nothing of consequence; Frank was a few feet in advance of Fred when they reached the edge of the crater, and both gave a loud hurrah by way of encouragement to the Doctor, who was lagging behind.

They wanted to descend into the crater, but the guide refused to accompany them, and the Doctor counselled prudence, as the crater of Pichincha is the deepest in the world, and the descent is dangerous. Humboldt pronounced it inaccessible, from its great depth and precipitous descent, but since his time it has been explored. The first who ventured there were Garcia Moreno and Sebastian Wisse, in 1844; and next after them was Professor Orton, in 1867. The latter says he was obliged to use the greatest caution, and a single misstep would have sent him tumbling to the bottom of the abyss. At times he was almost paralyzed with fear, and felt that death was staring him in the face.

"To give you an idea of the crater of Pichincha," said the Doctor, as they stood on its edge and watched the clouds of smoke and steam curling upwards, "let me give you some figures. This crater is 2500 feet deep; that of Kilauea, in the Sandwich Islands, is 600; Orizaba is 500; Etna is 300; and Hecla 100. Professor Orton says Vesuvius is a portable furnace by comparison with this crater, which is a mile wide and half a mile deep. We are standing nearly 16,000 feet above the level of the sea, 5000 feet higher than Etna, almost four times the height of Vesuvius, and five times that of Stromboli, the 'lighthouse of the Mediterranean.'"

"I cannot do better," said Fred, afterwards, in describing the view from the summit of Pichincha, "than quote the words of Professor Orton in 'The Andes and the Amazon.' Here they are:

"'Below us are the smouldering fires, which may any moment spring forth into a conflagration; around us are the black, ragged cliffs--fit boundary for this gateway to the infernal regions. They look as if they had just been dragged up from the central furnace of the earth. Life seems to have fled in terror from the vicinity; even lichens, the children of the bare rocks, refuse to clothe the scathed and beetling crags. For some moments, made mute by the dreadful sight, we stood like statues on the rim of the mighty caldron, with our eyes riveted on the abyss below, lost in contemplating that which cannot be described.

"'The panorama from this lofty summit is more pleasing, but equally sublime. Towards the rising sun is the long range of the Eastern Cordilleras, hiding from our view the great valley of the Amazon. To right and left are the peaks of another procession of august mountains, from Cotocachi to Chimborazo. We are surrounded by the great patriarchs of the Andes, and their speaker, Cotopaxi, ever and anon sends his muttering voice over the land. The view westward is like looking down from a balloon. Those parallel ridges of the mountain chain, dropping one behind the other, are the gigantic staircase by which the ice-crowned Chimborazo steps down to the sea. A white sea of clouds covers the peaceful Pacific, and the lower parts of the coast. But the vapory ocean, curling into the ravines, beautifully represents little coves and bays, leaving islands and promontories like a true ocean on a broken shore. We seem raised above the earth, which lies like an opened map below us; we can look down on the upper surface of the clouds, and, were it night, down too upon the lightnings.'"

After an hour had been passed in contemplation of the awful crater, and the grand view from the summit of the mountain, the Doctor suggested that it was time to descend. Finding a place where the cinders were unbroken from top to bottom of the cone the youths slid quickly downward, as they had done at Vesuvius, years before. They were followed by the Doctor, and then the trio sat down to a dinner, which had been left in care of the guide who remained with the mules. It was seasoned with the best of sauces, hunger, which had been developed by the exertions of the morning, and the pauses in the progress of the meal were brief indeed.

Dinner over, they mounted, and returned by the road which they followed in the ascent. Evening found them again in Quito, and in the wretched _posada_ which is the only hotel of the capital of Ecuador.

During the evening conversation naturally turned to volcanoes and earthquakes; one writer has said facetiously that earthquakes are the principal productions of Ecuador, and he certainly is not far out of the way. Most of the South American earthquakes appear to have their origin in Ecuador, as the shocks are generally felt there first, and with the greatest severity. The great disturbance of 1868 was an exceptional occurrence, as it had its commencement in Peru, on the 13th of August, causing great loss of life and destruction of property. The shock in Ecuador was three days later; it was more fatal to life than in Peru, but less destructive to property. The Peruvian earthquake occurred in the afternoon, and was preceded by premonitory shocks, while the Ecuadorian one was in the night, and gave no warning of its approach.

"According to the accounts," said the Doctor, "the first shock of the earthquake in Quito was felt a little after midnight on the 16th of August, another at four in the morning, and two others in the course of the day. One, in the afternoon, was accompanied by a shower of rain and hail, which fell with great violence; there had been a similar shower on the afternoon of the 15th. It was noticeable that for two months before the earthquakes there were serious disturbances of the atmosphere, and a catarrhal fever had prevailed, which swept off thousands of people. The whole country was in mourning for those who had died of the pestilence, when the earthquake came, to cause additional sorrow.

"The amount of the destruction in Quito has been mentioned already. The earthquake was more severe in the northern provinces of Ecuador, where the ground sank, cliffs were thrown down, lakes appeared, great chasms opened in the earth, and the whole face of the country was changed. The province of Imbaburu, which was the most fertile and productive in the republic, as well as the most populous and prosperous, suffered more than any other. It contained several towns and small cities, and the rural districts were in an excellent state of cultivation for this part of the world. The earthquake totally destroyed several of these places, as it came in the night, when most of the inhabitants were asleep in their houses. Two towns in the canton of Catuchi were completely wiped out of existence, and no sign was left to show where they stood. Not five per cent. of the people escaped with their lives!

"In another town seven tenths of the inhabitants were killed by the falling of the buildings, and the sinking of the earth into a great chasm, which opened beneath the place. The city of Ibarra, the capital of the province, was beautifully situated in the centre of a fertile plain; it was surrounded by orchards, gardens, and fields, so that the place only became visible on a very near approach, or from the distant hills. It had a population of about ten thousand, though generally estimated at a higher figure. Nearly one half of its inhabitants lost their lives in the earthquake, and it was said that hardly a dozen houses remained standing after the shocks were ended.

"The subject is an unpleasant one," continued the Doctor, after a pause. "Let us turn to something else.

"To-morrow we will prepare for our return to the coast. The guide has been trying to persuade me to go over the Andes to the head-waters of the Amazon, whence we can descend to the Atlantic. I have told him our plans would not permit our doing so, but he desires to talk further on the subject. Let us call him, and hear what he has to say; at any rate, we can learn something about the country to the east of us."

Francisco, the guide, was waiting in the court-yard of the hotel, and came promptly when told that he was wanted. He was an intelligent native of a village near Quito, and had been several times over the mountains, between the capital and the Napo River, one of the tributaries of the Amazon. He spoke Spanish fluently, and told his story without a moment's hesitation. We will render it into English, and give it as it was remembered by our friends.

"The journey from here to the Napo will take about fifteen days," said Francisco, "and down the Napo to where the steamers come on the Maranon, or Upper Amazon, will take fifteen or twenty more. You will need to carry the most of your provisions, as game cannot be relied on, and the people are scattered, and have very little to sell. Professor Orton had three persons in his party, the same number that you have, and he calculated his provisions so closely, that when he reached the first village on the Maranon he had just enough left for one grand farewell dinner."

Fred asked what the Professor carried in the way of provisions. Francisco drew from his pocket a faded and crumpled paper, and read as follows:

"One hundred pounds each of flour and crackers; ninety pounds of sugar; fifty pounds each of rice and dried beef; thirty each of corn-meal, pea-flour, and chocolate; fifty of _mashka_ (roasted barley-meal); ten each of salt, lard, and ham; one hundred and seventy eggs; and one or two pounds each of tea, _mate_, soda, and cream of tartar. They bought eggs, chickens, rice, syrup, and other things from the Indians, whenever they had the opportunity, and when they reached the river they occasionally obtained fish, game, and turtles' eggs.

"All these things were sealed up in tin cans," continued the guide; "partly as a precaution against injury from the dampness of the climate, and partly to save them from theft by the Indian porters. The atmosphere of the Napo is like a steam bath, and keeps everything wet, and the Indians have a fondness for helping themselves when they have a chance. You can't get along without the Indians, as they are your only porters. From here to the foot of the mountains you can go on horseback, but the rest of the way to the Napo you must travel on foot, and the Indians carry your baggage."

This announcement caused a shake of the head on the part of the trio of listeners, and it became very evident that they were not inclined to make the journey from Quito to the Amazon in that way.

"You will cross the Andes at an elevation of fifteen thousand feet," said Francisco, not noticing the sign of disapproval; "and, therefore, must carry thick clothing to shield you from the cold, and rubber ponchos to keep off the rain in the day and spread on the ground at night as a foundation for your beds. You want two suits of clothes; one to wear in the daytime, and the other to put on dry at night. When you go into camp you must remove the suit you have worn since morning, as it will generally be wet through by the rain, or by fording streams and passing through marshy ground."

"How many pairs of boots will be wanted for each of us?" inquired Fred. "It seems to me there will be a fearful destruction of foot-gear."

"Yes," replied the guide, "but your American boots will not answer for the journey. Buy plenty of _alpargates_, or native sandals made from the fibre of the aloe plant, and be sure and have enough of them, as a pair will not last more than two days. They are better than boots, as they do not keep the feet uncomfortably warm, and no leather boots can keep out the moisture through which you will constantly travel.

"Then you want a stock of _lienzo_, or cotton cloth, which is the currency of the Indians, just as it is of the wild people of Africa. Then add knives, fish-hooks, thread, beads, looking-glasses, and some other trifles, and you will have an outfit for the trip. Of course you will suit yourselves about guns, pistols, cooking utensils, scientific apparatus, and the like, and remember to have no package weighing more than seventy-five pounds, which is the load of an Indian porter. Professor Orton had thirteen horses to carry himself and party as far as the horses could go, and from there to the Napo he had twenty Indian porters, which is probably what you would need. The whole expense for horses and porters will be about one hundred and fifty dollars; at Napo you will hire canoes to descend the river, and the hardships of your journey will be over.

"There are many rapids in the Napo River, and the voyage will be an exciting one; the rapids look very dangerous, but the Indians are excellent boatmen, and, if you let them alone, they will carry you safely along with the current. At Pebas, on the Maranon, it may be necessary to wait a few days for a steamboat, as the navigation is not regular, but you can be reasonably sure of no further trouble on your way down the Maranon and Amazon to the Atlantic."

The Doctor thanked Francisco for his information, and told him they would think the subject over, and have a further talk with him the next morning.

When he appeared again before them Dr. Bronson reiterated his previous assertion, that they could not change their plans, but the guide was rewarded for his information by a present of money that put him immediately in good-humor. He assisted them in their preparations for the return to the coast, and accompanied them as far as Guaranda, where new animals were engaged to Bodegas.

We will now seat our friends on the enchanted carpet of the Arabian Nights' Entertainment, and with the swiftness of thought place them on board a steamer leaving Guayaquil for Callao.