CHAPTER VI.

THE PARADISE OF EARTHQUAKES.--FROM GUAYAQUIL TO QUITO.--A RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS.--ALL CLIMATES UNITED IN ONE.--THE PLAINS OF ECUADOR.--CHIMBORAZO AND COTOPAXI.

The incident of the breakfast naturally drew their attention to the earthquakes that frequently shake the mountainous parts of South America, and render life and property more uncertain than in regions which are not subject to these disturbances.

"Ecuador may be considered the paradise of the earthquake," said the Doctor, "though it is not much ahead of Peru and Chili in that respect. To give a list of the earthquakes that have destroyed life and property in this country since it first became known to the Spaniards would be to recite a long series of dates; Guayaquil has been shaken up a great many times, but it has suffered less than the capital. Here, at the sea-coast, we are somewhat removed from the centre of the disturbance, but by no means out of its reach."

"We will hope," said Fred, "that the violent earthquakes will postpone themselves until our departure."

Dr. Bronson and Frank emphatically approved Fred's suggestion, and the Doctor proceeded with his comments.

"The central portion of Ecuador," said he, "is at an elevation of several thousand feet, and contains many active volcanoes. The valleys in which are the cities and cultivated part of the country are rarely less than 6000 feet above the level of the sea, and some of them rise to 10,000 or 12,000. The highest of the mountains is Chimborazo, 21,422 feet high; it was for a long time supposed to be the highest mountain of America, but modern surveys have shown that it has several superiors. It is the sixth in elevation of the chain of the Andes, and these in turn are surpassed, in the Old World, by several of the Himalayas. The best known of the active volcanoes is Cotopaxi, nearly 19,000 feet high, but there are others that rival it in destructive energy.

"We shall have opportunity to study these volcanoes quite nearly," continued the Doctor, "as we go to Quito and the region around it. There does not appear to be any danger of an eruption at present, and if we allow our minds to be constantly filled with dread of a catastrophe we shall not enjoy the journey. So we'll let the earthquakes take care of themselves, as they generally do."

In the afternoon they arranged for the storage of such baggage as they did not wish to take with them. Trunks were left behind, and the whole trio was reduced to light marching order, in accordance with their custom when making the excursions of which we have read in "The Boy Travellers in the Far East." Toilet bags, with a small stock of underclothing, an extra suit of clothes for a change in case of being drenched with rain, and overcoats, rugs, wraps, and blankets, for the cold weather at great elevations, comprised the equipment for the journey to Quito.

Travellers must carry their own bedding and provisions while journeying in the interior of Ecuador, and, in fact, in most of the South American countries. This was the custom adopted by the old Spaniards, and customs change here very slowly. Hotels are scarce, and the lodging-houses along the road give little more than a roof for shelter, and sometimes not even that. If a man ventures to travel without carrying his own supplies he will often go hungry; but, on the other hand, he may be sure of the most uniform kindness from the people of the country. They will give him the best they have, but very often they have literally nothing to offer.

The Guayas is navigable by small steamers from Guayaquil to Bodegas, a distance of seventy miles. Our friends took passage upon one of the steamers plying on the river, and were safely landed at Bodegas after a pleasant run of eight or nine hours. Frank recorded in his note-book that the river is not a swift one, and flows through a flat country in which there is not much of interest beyond the vegetation. "The banks," said he, "are lined with groves of bananas and plantains; the fruit of these trees forms an important article of food with the inhabitants, and it is no wonder they are not disposed to hard labor when they can supply themselves without it.

"The banana can be eaten raw, but the raw plantain is considered unhealthy. Both plantains and bananas are cooked in a variety of ways, baked, boiled, fried, or roasted; they can be formed into a paste after cooking, and then dried, and in this condition the article can be kept for a long time. Humboldt estimated that four thousand pounds of bananas can be produced in the same area as thirty-three pounds of wheat or ninety-nine pounds of potatoes. They are cultivated with very little labor, and there is nothing which the soil produces that gives so great an amount of food from a given area of land. If a man will live only on bananas he can take things very easily.

"In addition to the banana and plantain forests we saw many plantations where coffee and cacao are grown, and some of them were of great extent. Then there were orange and lemon groves, fields of pineapples, mango and bread-fruit trees, and great numbers of cocoa palms. There were many canoes and _balsas_ on the river; the balsas are nothing but rafts made of the trunks of the balsa trees. Half a dozen logs are lashed together with withes and cords, and braced with cross-pieces of wood so that there is no danger of separation. On the top of the raft a flooring of bamboos or split palms is laid, and on this flooring they build a hut in which the people live, often for weeks at a time.

"Some of these balsas are larger than others, in consequence of the logs being longer and more numerous. The huts on the larger rafts contain several rooms, and are equipped with conveniences for living quite equal to those of huts on shore. There are places for cooking, coops for fowls, pens for pigs, and nooks among the rafters where edibles can be stored, out of the reach of the four-footed inhabitants. A whole family will live comfortably on a balsa, and few of them are destitute of pets in the shape of monkeys and parrots. Some of the rafts carried such an abundance of monkeys and parrots that it was not easy to say if they were not the possessors of the establishment, carrying the men, women, and children to a market in Guayaquil. The monkeys and children appeared on the most familiar terms, and as the latter were unencumbered with clothing they were not to be readily distinguished from their tailed associates.

"Balsa wood is as light as cork, and remains a long time in the water without any tendency to absorption. The balsa raft was in use long before the visit of the Spaniards, and the craft we have seen are probably identical with those that met the eyes of Pizarro at the time of the conquest.

"Occasionally we saw monkeys among the trees on the shore, but they evidently did not like the steamer, and were careful to keep at a respectful distance. There were birds of brilliant plumage, but we did not hear a song from one of them; a gentleman who was our fellow-passenger says that most of the birds of this part of the world have no knowledge of music. There were plenty of alligators lying on the banks; we took several shots at them, but soon desisted, as we bagged no game, while the alligators seemed to enjoy the sport and the waste of our ammunition. Many of them were lying with their mouths open, waiting for the flies to settle in their throats; when they judged that a sufficient number had assembled they suddenly closed their jaws, swallowed the flies that were caught, and set themselves for more. They make splendid fly-traps, and Fred suggests that they should be introduced into New York and other cities to take the place of the many patent machines that are now in use for catching flies."

Down to quite recently the route from Bodegas to Quito was simply a mule path; a wagon road has been completed for a part of the way, and is ultimately intended to reach the capital. A railway is projected from Guayaquil to Quito, but for the present the mule path must be the reliance of travellers. A wagon was obtained, for carrying our friends and their baggage to the end of the road which traverses the level country up to the foot of the mountains. It was a rickety affair, but served its purpose, which is all that can be expected of a wagon under ordinary circumstances.

At the end of the road our friends were deposited in a village which is chiefly inhabited by _arrieros_, or muleteers, and their families, together with a sprinkling of other natives more or less interested in the traffic passing between the capital and the seaport. The arrieros are a very important part of the mountain population of Ecuador, as there is no travel or transportation away from the rivers and wagon roads without them.

Fred made the following note concerning the arrieros, and the journey towards Quito:

"The business is entirely in the hands of the natives or the half-breeds, as no genuine Spaniard would consider it high enough for his dignity. Some of the arrieros possess many mules, but the most of them have but half a dozen, or perhaps ten or twelve, and travel personally with their trains. The _peons_, or servants of the arrieros, are likewise of the native race, and accustomed all their lives to hardship and toil. Their wants are few, as they live on food that can be easily transported; their general outfit for the road is a cotton shirt and trousers, a straw hat, and a _poncho_, or blanket with a hole in the centre, through which the head is thrust. This poncho is striped with gay colors, and is very often quite attractive to the eye. Each arriero or peon carries his own food, which usually consists of a few red peppers, a bag of parched corn, and another of barley meal. With this slender nourishment they pass their lives on the rough roads among the mountains, and immediately on arriving from one hard journey they are ready for another.

"We were surrounded by half a dozen arrieros at once, and there was no difficulty in making a bargain, as several trains had just arrived from the mountains, and were anxious to return. We engaged five mules, three for ourselves, and two for our baggage; the owners endeavored to convince us that another animal was needed for the baggage, but as we had less than three hundred pounds of it altogether, we were not to be convinced. Our arriero promised to be ready to start early the next morning, but it was nearly noon before we got away. We tried to hurry him, but it was of no use; he was anxious enough before making the bargain, but now that it was settled, and competition was out of the way, his anxiety had ceased.

"The baggage was piled on the mules that were to carry it, and when all was ready we mounted our saddle animals. They were not very prepossessing in appearance, and looked as though the mountain journey would be too much for them, but they were the best in the train, and we concluded to be content with the situation. Mules are considered better than horses for this sort of work, as they are surer in their footing, and will venture in places where a horse refuses to go. Bulls and donkeys are also used here for carrying burdens along the mountain roads, but they are not equal to mules.

"We filed out of the village, accompanied by several travellers who were going in the same direction, so that altogether we formed a long cavalcade. As we ascended the hills the road became very rough, and frequently the path was blocked by trains going in the opposite direction. In spite of all the good-nature that the arrieros displayed towards each other, there were several serious detentions; we found the donkeys more obstinate about holding the track to themselves than the other animals, though none of the latter were to be praised for their courtesy.

"Some of the trains we met were laden with coffee and cacao on its way to the seaport, while others carried potatoes, barley, pease, fowls, and other produce intended for consumption in the country. The people were, without an exception, civil and obliging, but they could not always induce their beasts to follow their example. Many of the men were accompanied by their wives and daughters, but whether the latter were going for a pleasure-trip or formed a part of the working force I am unable to say.

"The road increased in roughness as we advanced; properly speaking, it was not a road, but simply a track worn in the rocks by the feet of the animals that had travelled there for hundreds of years, and by the water that sweeps down in torrents during the rainy season. In some places the way was a sort of rocky staircase, and our mules placed their feet in steps which had been worn to a depth of five or six inches. It was often so steep that if we had not leaned well forward we should have been in danger of a backward somersault, and the consequences of such a fall, especially if the man should carry his mule with him, are fearful to think of.

"Accidents are frequent here, and the great wonder is that there are no more of them. Fortunately, we did not meet any of the descending trains in the most dangerous spots, where the path wound around precipices or through narrow defiles; there are many places where it does not seem possible for two animals to pass in safety, and I can well understand that there is a foundation for stories about men engaging in fights for the right of way. The unprogressiveness of the Spanish people in Ecuador is shown by their being content to get along with this kind of road between their seaport and their capital city during three centuries!

"Night came upon us while we were climbing the hills, and as it is very dangerous to travel after dark, we halted where there were a couple of rude huts, not sufficient for sheltering our party. The arrieros and their peons slept outside with their animals, while the travellers were made as comfortable as their blankets would permit on the floor of the huts. There was the solid earth to sleep on, and we were relieved from monotony by the presence of innumerable fleas. In the morning, each of us felt sure he had been bitten at least three thousand times, and Fred thought he could count not less than four thousand distinct and well-defined bites. Fleas are even cheaper than bananas to cultivate and much more abundant to the acre; it is certain they are not destructive to life, for if they were there would be no living thing in Ecuador.

"Before going to bed we supped from some of our provisions, aided by a dish of stewed potatoes prepared by the owner of the hut where we slept. A favorite dish among the mountaineers is potato stew or soup, which is known as _locro_; sometimes it is prepared plain, while at others it contains chicken, beef, or any other obtainable meat. The presence of meat adds materially to the dish for European palates, and when well prepared a dinner of locro is not to be despised.

"Our surroundings were not conducive to late sleeping, and we were off soon after daybreak. The morning was very cold, but as the sun ascended in the heavens the air grew warmer, and we ceased shivering. In a little while we reached the summit of a ridge several thousand feet above the level of the sea, and had a magnificent view.

"There was a mist when we started, but it rolled away when we came to the top of the sierra; on one side we had the lofty mountains far above us, and on the other the country dropped away at our feet till it was lost in the distant shore of the Pacific. The great snowy peak of Chimborazo was in full view, and we longed to ascend to its summit and look out upon the wide stretch of land it commands. One traveller says the view from its top would embrace an area of fully ten thousand square miles, and I can readily believe him. Nobody has yet been there, and the name of the man who first ascends it is destined to be remembered.

"Humboldt and his companions endeavored, in 1802, to ascend to the top of Chimborazo, but were obliged to stop short when they had yet two thousand and more feet above them.

"They were stopped by an immense chasm that stretched across the line they were ascending, and by the inconveniences that are generally experienced at high altitudes. Blood spurted from their eyes and lips, and they breathed with great difficulty. According to barometrical observations, Humboldt was within 2138 feet of the summit when he turned back.

"Boussingault and Hall have since ascended to within 1729 feet of the top of the giant mountain, by taking a route different from that followed by Humboldt. They experienced the same difficulties in breathing and in the rush of blood to the lips and eyes; both of them were enfeebled for some time after making the journey, and their experiences were altogether such as to deter any but the hardiest of men from attempting the ascent of Chimborazo.

"But though we cannot climb to the top of this kingly mountain, we may look at it as much as we please, and very beautiful it is in the contemplation. It is a sharp cone, sharper and more pointed than Fusiyama or Etna, sharper even than Tacoma or Ranier in our own country, and sharper again than magnificent Avatcha, the great landmark of Kamtchatka. Its summit is covered with perpetual snow; it stands within less than two degrees of the equator, and the palm groves of the tropics are spread almost at its feet. Eternal winter wraps its head, but eternal summer smiles below. Standing where Humboldt stood, all the seasons of the year and all climates of the globe may be passed in review.

"But I'm stopping you on the sierra while telling you about Chimborazo. Well, the mules have had a chance to breathe, and we'll move on.

"From the top of the sierra we descended the slope to the valley of the Chimbo; the road is steep, and in many places slippery, and more than once we thought we would not get down without a serious accident. Here and there our mules put their feet together, and slid with a velocity that made our hair rise under our hats, and our teeth shut closely together; we shall hereafter have more respect for the intelligence of the mule than we ever had before. One of the baggage mules tumbled, and was pitched together in a heap, but he gathered himself together, and rose again as though nothing had happened.

"We passed many places that reminded us of the northern states of our own country; the valley is elevated eight or nine thousand feet above the sea, and the climate is quite unlike that of the region around Guayaquil. Wheat, barley, potatoes, and turnips are cultivated, instead of the tropical products which we saw along the banks of the Guayas; at a little distance the dwellings of the people have a substantial appearance, but a closer acquaintance shows that they are built of mud and are anything but attractive on the inside.

"We stopped for the night at Guaranda, which is on the west bank of the Chimbo River, and is said to be a healthy place of residence throughout the year. It has a population of about two thousand, but there is hardly a decent house in the place. The buildings are low huts of _adobe_, or sun-dried bricks; the streets are made lower in the centre than at the sides, and when the rains fall there is no danger that the foundations of the houses will be damaged by water.

"Dr. Bronson said that we were in the centre of the region which produces the celebrated _Chinchona_, or Peruvian bark, which has such a great reputation in curing fevers. It takes its name from the Countess of Chinchon, who was cured of intermittent fever by its use at Lima, about the middle of the seventeenth century. It was then taken to Europe, and the knowledge of it was spread through the civilized world."

"Quinine is produced from this bark, is it not?" Frank inquired, when Fred read the note quoted above.

"Yes," replied the latter, "quinine is an alkaloid, made from Peruvian bark, and was discovered in 1820. There are several other alkaloids in the bark, but none are as important as the one you have just mentioned. Any doctor can tell you of its qualities, and a great many people who are not doctors are familiar with its uses.

"No traveller will venture into a malarious region without a good supply of quinine, and in some countries it is almost as important to have it as to be provided with food."

Having answered Frank's interrogatory, Fred continued with his observations upon the trees that produce the valuable bark.

"There are no less than twenty-one varieties of trees producing the bark from which quinine is made," said Fred, "but some of the most valuable of them are extinct, owing to the reckless way in which they have been stripped. The trees grow on the slopes of the Andes, in Peru, Ecuador, and other countries; they have been successfully transplanted to India, Java, Algeria, and the United States; and the future supply of quinine for a feverish world will probably come from other countries than South America.

"The _cascarilleros_, or bark-collectors, are obliged to go far into the forests in search of trees, and they suffer many hardships and privations in pursuing their industry. The best of the trees have been destroyed; we asked if we could see one, and were told we must make a journey of several days to do so, as none now grow in the neighborhood of Guaranda. A gentleman who lives in Quito told us he had seen a chinchona tree sixty feet high, and six feet in circumference; it yielded two thousand pounds of green bark, or about one thousand pounds when dry. Another tree that he saw gave three thousand dollars' worth of quinine; but such trees are rare.

"We left Guaranda very early in the morning," Fred continued, "and when we jumped into our saddles we could hardly see where they were. There is a ridge to cross, after getting out of the valley of the Chimbo, which it is desirable to pass in the forenoon, as the wind blows violently there after the sun has passed the meridian, though it is quiet enough in the morning. We crossed the ridge, with the great mountain rising before us, and then descended to another valley to the city of Ambato, which has nothing in particular to recommend it.

"To describe the dreary road from here to Quito would be tedious reading. It passes through a region of volcanic origin, where the rocks are piled everywhere in great confusion, vegetation is restricted, and the miserable villages of the natives are repulsive in every aspect. It winds over hills and ridges, or through valleys and along the banks of streams; it rises in some places ten or twelve thousand feet above the sea-level, and nowhere is it less than eight thousand feet in elevation. The latter part of the journey is over a wagon road, passing in full view of the volcano of Cotopaxi, and crossing a ridge that suddenly brings us in sight of the capital city, nestling at the foot of Pichincha, the volcano which more than once has threatened to ingulf it in total ruin.

"The country improves as we approach Quito. There are farms in great number, and the fertile slopes of the hills appear to be well cultivated. Before we reach the ridge which reveals it, we traverse a valley that might be made far more productive than it is, and when we come to the banks of the Machangara, the river that flows past Quito, we can hardly realize that we are nearly two miles up in the air. But it is really so, as the elevation of the city is little less than ten thousand feet; and people afflicted with pulmonary complaints would do well to stay away from it."