CHAPTER XXX.

MUTINY AT SANDY POINT.--TIERRA DEL FUEGO.--MISSIONARY ENTERPRISES THERE.--CAPTAIN GARDINER.--CRUISE OF THE "WATEREE."--SIDE-WHEEL DUCKS.--UP THE PACIFIC COAST.--THE MEETING AT VALPARAISO.--THE END. 498

ILLUSTRATIONS.

At the Foot of the Andes _Frontispiece._ On the Sea Again 13 The Fog Clearing away 14 Sandy Hook Light-ship 15 A Stranded Ship 17 Weighing Baggage 18 The Shipworm and his Work 19 The Donkey's Descent 21 The Wharf at Aspinwall 22 Departure for Panama 23 Native Market, Aspinwall 25 Preparing for a Boat Excursion 26 Balboa taking Possession of the Pacific 28 The Isthmus of Darien 29 Rescue of the Survivors of Strain's Expedition 30 Strain's Arrival at the Coast 31 View on the Chagres River 32 Beach near Aspinwall 34 In the Rainy Season 35 A Hand-car Journey on the Panama Railway 36 Surveying under Difficulties 37 Native Village on the Isthmus 38 Native Idea of the Locomotive 39 The Espiritu Santo Flower 40 Gatun Station 41 A Tropical Harbor 42 Map of the Panama Railway 43 Crossing the Isthmus in 1849 45 A Bongo 46 Bridge Across the Chagres River at Barbacoas 47 Meeting a Train 48 The Humming-bird at Work 49 The Singing Hummer 49 The Iguana 49 A Centipede 50 A Scorpion 50 Exhibiting a Tarantula 51 Hills near the Railway 52 Map Showing how Ocean Routes are Shortened by the Panama Canal 53 Basaltic Cliff 55 Panama in the Distance 56 Station at Panama 57 Cathedral at Panama 58 Ramparts, with Old Cannon 59 Water-carrier and Native Woman 60 Gate of the Monks 61 Ruins of Church of San Domingo 62 A Remarkable Archway 63 Ruined Church 64 View from the Ramparts at Panama 65 On the Northeastern Beach 66 Watch-tower of San Jerome 68 A Hermit at Home 70 Making Chichi 71 Bridge at Old Panama 72 Slaughter of Priests by Buccaneers 74 Pirates' Rendezvous 75 Buccaneers Embarking on an Expedition 76 Morgan's Reception at Chagres 78 Morgan's Men Dining on Leather 79 Death of the Indian Chief 80 Moving Through the Forest 81 Capture of Old Panama by Morgan. (Fac-simile of an old print) 83 The Lucky Arrow 84 Bay of Panama, from the Southeastern Rampart 85 Coast Scene Below Panama 86 Cave Near Limon River 87 Vasco Nunez De Balboa 89 Balboa Carried on Shipboard 90 Balboa Makes his Appearance 91 Village on a River of Darien 93 Balboa and the Indian Princess 94 Quarrel for the Gold 95 Marching Through the Forest 97 Discovery of the Pacific 98 Cutting Timber for the Ships 99 Death of Balboa 100 Cathedral of Guayaquil 102 Street Scene and Ruins 103 In the Land of the Earthquake 104 The Central Part of Ecuador 106 Las Bodegas, Guayas River 107 A House in the Tropics 108 Cacao 109 Arriero and Traveller 110 In Holiday Costume 111 A Pack-train Under Way 112 A Mountain Cascade 115 Baron von Humboldt in 1802 116 Native Huts Near Guaranda 117 Among the Lava Beds 118 View of Cotopaxi 119 View of Quito and the Volcano of Pichincha 120 Inca Gateway and Fortress in the Andes 121 Crossing the Mountains 122 A Street in Quito 123 Palacio de Gobierno (Government House), Quito 124 Water-carriers 125 Priests and Monks 126 Laundresses of Quito 128 Balcony View of the Andes 130 The Crater of Pichincha 131 El Altar, Volcano, Ecuador 133 View of Ibarra, Ecuador 135 Napo Indian Porter 137 Descending the Napo 138 Mountain Pass in the Andes 139 Rapids in a Mountain Stream of South America 140 Water-carrier and Donkeys 141 Desert Scene 142 A Wolf Emigrating 143 Ships in a Fog 145 A Garden on the Rimac 147 A Claimant for the Sidewalk 148 View of Lima from the Steps of the Cathedral 149 Lima and the Surrounding Country 150 Wearing the "Saya y Manto" 151 A Lady of Lima 152 Interior Court, Lima 154 Bridge over the Rimac, Lima 155 One Use for Chickens 156 Ladies of Lima at Home 157 Peruvian Infantry and Cavalry 158 A Passage of Politeness 159 A Peruvian Cavalier 160 Horse-breakers at Work 161 Native Women of Lima 163 Ruins of Pachacamac 164 Head of Peruvian Statue 165 Terraced Space on a Hill-top 165 Peruvian Mummies 166 Sepulchral Tower 167 Golden Vase Found in a Tomb 167 Silver Vase 168 Peruvian Idol 168 Peruvian Copper Knives 169 Ruins on Titicaca Island 169 Part of Temple of the Sun, Cuzco 170 Outer Wall of Fortress of Cuzco 171 Stones in the Wall of Cuzco 171 Part of Wall of Fortress 172 Peruvian Vases 173 Ornaments of Peruvian Walls 174 Ancient Palace at Huanco 175 Doorway Cut Through a Single Stone 175 Central Figure over Doorway 176 Deep Cutting on a Railway 177 Among the Foot-hills 178 Guano Islands 181 Sea-birds at Home 182 Scene on a Coolie Ship 183 On the Edge of the Desert 185 Indians of Arequipa 186 Arequipa, and the Volcano of Misti 187 The Old Way of Travel 189 View of Lake Titicaca 190 The Nevada de Sorata, Crown of the Andes 191 View on Lake Titicaca 193 Peruvian Heads, Ancient and Modern 194 Cathedral of Puno 195 Quichua Woman (from a photograph) 196 Coca Plant 197 Llama 199 Ancient Gateway near Puno 200 The Vicuna 201 Indians and Llama Among the Ruins 202 Cattle Feeding on Rushes, Lake Titicaca 203 Tortora Bridge Over the Outlet of Lake Titicaca 204 Head-dress of Aymara Women 205 Aymara Men, Puno 205 Aymara Woman, Puno 206 A Ride on a Balsa, Lake Titicaca 207 Closed Doorway, Titicaca Island 207 Palace of the Inca 208 Bath of the Inca 209 Room in the Inca's Palace 210 The Sacred Rock of Manco Capac 210 Ground-plan of "Palace of the Inca," Titicaca Island 211 Bridge and Custom-house at the Frontier 212 Ruins on Coati Island 213 Indians Celebrating the Chuno, or Potato Festival 214 Head-dress of Indian Female Dancers 215 Plan of Part of Ruins of Tiahuanaco 216 The American Stonehenge 216 Front View of Monolithic Doorway 217 Symbolical Slab 218 Terrace Walls and Scattered Blocks of Stone 219 Remains of Palace at Cuzco 220 Inca Doorway, Cuzco 221 Old Bridge at Cuzco 221 Court of Convent, with Ancient Fountain 222 Church and Convent of Santo Domingo, Cuzco 223 Terra-cotta Figures, Cuzco 224 Ancient Stone Sculpture, Cuzco 224 Section of Walls of the Fortress 225 Salient Angle of Fortress 225 Road Leading to Fortified Hill 226 Ancient Dwelling-house 227 Specimen of Cyclopean Wall 227 Ancient Sun Circle, Sillustani, Peru 228 Tanatero (ore-carrier) 229 Section of a Silver Mine 230 A Primitive Mill 231 Arastra, with Mule-power 232 Breaking Ore 233 Indians Extracting Silver from Ore 234 Galleries in a Silver Mine 235 Caving in 236 Wild Indian of Bolivia 237 Limited Accommodations 239 Aymara Skull 240 Turf House near Lake Titicaca 241 Chulpas, or Burial-towers 241 Ancient Sepulchre 242 Manuel 243 Loading the Mules 244 The Start 245 A Mountain Trail 247 Hacienda among the Mountains 248 Travelling by Silla 250 Dead Whale on Shore 251 Shot at a Condor 252 Puma, Cougar, or American Lion 252 Capybara 253 Jaguar 254 Game for the Jaguar 255 Steamer Leaving Para 256 Head of Navigation 257 A Chance Acquaintance 258 A Landing-place 260 Humming-birds of the Andes 261 Humming-bird's Nest 262 Pair of Toucans and their Nest 263 Tanagers and Nest 264 Toucan 265 Parrots 265 An Amazonian Dwelling 266 Near the Village 267 Agave, or Sisal Hemp 269 Hunting with the Blow-gun 271 A Giant of the Forest 272 Turtle-shooting in South America 273 Turtle-turning 274 South American River Scene 276 South American Monkey with Prehensile Tail 277 Howling Monkey 278 A Monkey Robbing Birds'-nests 279 Hunting the Monkey 280 Amazonian Mosquitoes at Home 282 An Indian of Northern Bolivia 283 Breakfast Scene on the River Bank 285 Plaza and Church at Exaltacion 287 Mojos Indians Celebrating Mass 288 The Cherimbita 289 A Mojos Indian 289 The Agouti 290 Hunting the Tapir 292 Water-snakes at Home 294 Rattlesnake Disturbed by a Wildcat 295 Visiting the Caripunas 296 A Caripuna Indian 298 A Walk in the Forest 299 Branch of the India-rubber Tree 300 India-rubber Making on the Madeira 301 Leaves, Fruit, and Flowers of the Cow-tree 303 Milking the Cow-tree 304 Dragging a Boat Around Teotonio 307 Inscriptions on the Rocks at Ribeirao 308 Cuttings on Stones near the Rapids 308 Buried in the Tropical Forest 310 Banana in Blossom 311 Rubber Tree and Parasites 312 Station of a Rubber Collector 313 A River Town 315 Pira-rucu, a Fish of the Amazon 317 Deposits in the Amazon Valley 318 Wasp-nest, Showing Interior Construction 319 Leaves, Nut, and Flowers of Sapucaya, an Amazon Tree 320 Ferns, Trees, and Creepers 321 Natives on the Middle Amazon 323 In an Igaripe 325 Fruit Pedlers 326 Arrival at Manaos 327 Giant Fig-tree 328 Natives of the Banks of the Ucayali 329 A Brazilian Landing-place 331 The Ant-eater Asleep 334 The Mouths of the Amazon 335 Para, from the River 336 Environs of Para 337 A Tropical Plant 338 A Dealer in Monkeys 339 Street in Para with Silk-cotton Trees 340 Nazareth Square, Para 341 A Para Belle 342 The Market at Para 343 Theatre of Our Lady of the Peace 344 The Government Palace at Para 345 Sourre and Salvaterra 347 A Snake Merchant 348 Going Ashore in a Jaganda 349 Street Scene in Pernambuco 350 Pernambuco 351 Pack Horses Laden with Sugar 352 Ox-cart 353 View of Bahia 354 Diamond-washing in Brazil 355 "Star of the South" 356 Porters Asleep 357 Brazilian Humming-birds 358 Market Scene, Bahia 359 Porters and Cask 359 Sedan Chair 360 Frame of Sedan 360 Entrance to the Harbor of Rio 361 View of Rio Janeiro from the Sea 362 Front View of the City 364 Coffee-carriers 365 Coal-carriers 366 Modern Innovations 366 Pedlers of Dry-goods 367 Poultry Dealer 367 Fruit Vender 368 View in the Bay of Rio de Janeiro 369 An Imperial Palace 370 Statue of Pedro I. 371 Scene in a Brazilian Suburb 372 Votive Offerings in a Church at Rio 374 View in the Bay 374 Alms-box 375 Religious Festival in Front of a Church 376 Monk in a Procession 377 The Aqueduct 378 A Brazilian Forest, with Characteristic Mammalia 379 Coffin Closed 380 Coffin Opened 380 Cemetry of the Paula Church 381 View of Rio from Boa Vista 382 Hotel at Tijuca, near Rio 383 Cascade at Tijuca 385 The Armadillo 386 Road over the Serra, near Petropolis 387 The Palace at Petropolis 388 Religious Procession in Brazil 389 Negro Hut near the Railway 391 Entrance to a Coffee Plantation 392 Victims of the Famine 394 Dying for Lack of Food 395 A Tropical Railway Station 396 Mandioca Plant 397 Plantation Negro 398 Punishment 399 In the Fields 400 Slaves with Collars 400 Slave with Mask 401 Mask 401 Shackles 401 Household Servant 402 Slaves Gathering Sugar-cane 403 At Home with the Sugar-cane 404 Intrudo Sports Thirty Years Ago 406 Intrudo Balls and Bottles 407 Wooden Cannon 407 The Condor and the Bull 408 Embalmed Head 408 Ancient Musical Instruments 409 Ancient Comb 409 Brazilian Basin 409 Montevideo from the Sea 410 View in the Capital of Uruguay 411 Ox-cart of Buenos Ayres 412 Soldiers of the Argentine Republic 413 A Guacho 414 A Guacho on Horseback 415 Post-station on the Pampas 417 A Steamer on the River Plate 418 A Refuge from Mosquitoes 419 Branding Cattle on an Estancia 421 Use of the Lasso and Bolas 422 Costumes of Paraguay 424 Indians of the "Gran Chaco" 425 Battle with Chaco Indians 427 Indians of the Lenqua, River Plate 428 Indians Shooting Fishes 429 A River Port during the War 430 Headquarters of General Lopez 431 Paraguayan Mother and Daughters 432 A Landed Proprietor 433 Cups and Tubes for Mate 434 Paraguayan Cart 435 Carlo Antonio Lopez, former President of Paraguay 436 Olive Branch from the Banks of the Parana 437 Map of Chili, Argentine Confederation, and Uruguay 439 In the Strait of Magellan 440 Arrival of Travellers at a Guacho Village 442 A Dance at San Luis de la Punta 444 The Police-office at Mendoza 446 The Birlocha 448 The Pampa Coach 449 Ox-carts near Mendoza 450 Coming to Town 451 Exercising the Mules 452 A Start under Disadvantages 454 Pass of Uspallata 455 Near the Base of the Andes 457 A Dangerous Road in the Mountains 459 Peons at Rest 460 A Mountain Canon 462 Snow-slide on the Trail 463 Hanging Bridge in the Andes 465 Deep Chasm in the Mountains 466 A Victim of the Storm 467 A Chilian Ox-cart 468 The Condor 469 Travelling in the Snow 470 A Natural Highway 471 Cutting Steps Along the Mountain 472 Bridge of the Apurimac 474 Looking Across the Bridge 475 By the Roadside 476 Court-yard of the Posada 477 A Pedler of Forage 478 The Alameda 480 A Street Scene 481 Customs Guard-house, Valparaiso 483 Spanish-American Costumes 484 Seal of the Falkland Islands 486 Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego 487 The Penguin 488 The Home of the Sea-birds 489 The Cormorant 489 A Steamer Entering the Strait of Magellan 490 Chilian Settlement at Sandy Point 491 Patagonian Dress 492 A Patagonian Belle 493 The Guanaco 494 Seeking Safety 495 The Ostrich and his Hunters 496 Skeleton of the Ostrich 497 Captain Smiley 498 Mountains and Glaciers in Magellan's Strait 499 Jemmy Button's Sound 500 Fuegians Visiting a War Steamer 501 The "Allen Gardiner" at Banner Cove 502 Starvation Beach 503 A Fuegian and his Food 504 A Fuegian Feast 505 Ruins at Port Famine 506 Borgia Bay 507 Inscriptions at Borgia Bay 507 "H" Cliff, Wateree Bay 508 The Yankee Wood-dealer 509 Near the Coast of Patagonia 509 Map of South America, with Route of the Boy Travellers _Front Cover._ Physical Map of South America _Back Cover._

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN SOUTH AMERICA.