CHAPTER XXXIV.

CENTRAL AMERICA AND THE REPUBLICS COMPOSING IT; A SKETCH OF THEIR HISTORY; AREA AND POPULATION.--SNAKES, LIZARDS, AND OTHER CREEPING THINGS.--COSTA RICA AND ITS REVOLUTIONS.--A PRESIDENT WHO COULDN'T READ.--HONDURAS AND ITS RESOURCES.-- VISIT TO TEGUCIGALPA.--YUSCARAN AND ITS MINERAL WEALTH.-- UNFORTUNATE FINANCIERING.--INTERESTING SOCIAL CUSTOMS.-- INTEROCEANIC CANALS; THEIR PRESENT STATUS.--THE NICARAGUA CANAL; SURVEYS, ESTIMATES, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE; PROBABLE ADVANTAGES TO THE WORLD'S COMMERCE; TERMS OF THE CONCESSION; ESTIMATED COST, REVENUES, AND SAVING OF DISTANCES.--FAREWELL TO MEXICO.--THE END. 530

ILLUSTRATIONS.

View of Popocatepetl _Frontispiece._ Map of Mexico with its Railways _Front Cover._ Route of the Boy Travellers in Mexico _Back Cover._ A Next-door Neighbor 1 The Mexican Frontier 3 Scene on the Pennsylvania Railroad 4 Street in El Paso 5 Bridge over the Mississippi at St. Louis 7 The Alamo Mission, San Antonio 8 General Sam Houston, Liberator of Texas 9 "G. T. T." 11 Mexico, showing Present and Old Frontier 12 A Group of Texan Hunters 13 View in San Antonio, Texas 14 On the Banks of the Rio Grande 15 Indian Water-carriers 17 An old Mexican Chapel by Moonlight 19 View in Nuevo Laredo 20 Watching the Frontier 21 Landscape near the Border 22 A Mexican Muleteer 23 A Solid Silver Spur 23 A Group of Adobe Houses 25 The Land of Mañana 26 The Threshing-floor 27 Saddle Mountain, Monterey 29 View of the Sierras 30 View of Monterey 31 The Plaza de Zaragoza 32 General Taylor's Attack on Monterey, September 21, 1846 33 The Bishop's Palace 35 Z. Taylor 36 Officers' Uniforms in 1860 39 Mountain Scene near Monterey 41 The Alameda, Monterey 42 Native Pottery 43 A Scene in the Market 44 A Court-yard in Monterey 45 A Window in Monterey 46 View of Sierras from Bishop's Palace 47 Santa Caterina, near Monterey 49 The Organ Cactus 50 Varieties of Cactus 51 In the San Juan Valley 52 A Solid Citizen 53 On the Road to Buena Vista 55 A Servant at the Hacienda 56 Near the Kitchen 57 Making Tortillas 58 A Primitive Kitchen 59 The Guide on the Battle-field 61 The Battle of Buena Vista 63 Boll of Mexican Cotton Plant 64 Picking Cotton 65 Departure of the Diligence 67 On the Road 68 Fight between Brigands and Soldiers 69 Encampment of Brigands 71 A King of the Road 72 Cavalry Pursuing a Band of Robbers 73 Hotel by the Way-side 75 Street Scene at Jaral 77 El Real de Santa Eulalia 78 The Ravine where the Outcasts Lived 79 On the Edge of the Cotton Field 80 "Cotton is King" 81 View in the Mining Region 83 Convent and Fountain 84 A Silver-producing Valley 86 Cactus Growths near Zacatecas 87 Field with Adobe Walls 88 A Mexican Arastra 89 Carrying Ore to the Reduction-works 90 A Mexican Crusher 91 Bringing Ore from the Mines 93 Mexican Bellows 94 Mexican Smelting-furnace 95 An Old-fashioned Plough 96 Farm-laborer in a Grass Cloak 97 Hacienda near the City 98 Prisoners at Work in the Jail 99 Of Spanish Blood 100 Indian Girls at a Spring 101 A Dry Barranca 103 Church of San Diego, Guanajuato 104 Court-yard of a Mexican Tenement-house 105 Superintendent's House at Silver Reduction-works 106 A Ton of Silver 107 A Mexican Beggar 108 Old Convent now used as Barracks 109 A Leading Citizen 110 Prisoners Breaking Ore 111 Sloping Ladders in a Silver-mine 112 Opening a New Mine 113 Entrance of a Mine Not in Operation 114 A Cotton Factory, Queretaro 115 Aqueduct of Queretaro 116 Queretaro 118 A Mexican Cavalry Soldier 120 A Mexican Infantry Soldier 121 Line of Defence held by Maximilian during the Siege of Queretaro 123 First Protestant Church in Mexico 125 Pueblo at Taos, New Mexico 126 Garden of a Mexican Convent 127 Interior of the First Methodist Episcopal Church, City of Mexico 128 Rev. John L. Stephens, a Martyr Missionary 129 In the Cathedral 130 Mexican Priests 131 Comparative Level of Lakes 132 The Great Spanish Drainage-cut 133 Young Girls of Tula 135 Environs of Mexico 137 A Member of the Church Party 139 Transcontinental Profile of Mexico 140 Interior Court-yard of a Mexican Hotel 141 Street View in the Capital 142 On the Way to Morning Mass 143 A Modern Street Front 144 Mexican Lottery Ticket 145 Flower-girl 146 The Cathedral, City of Mexico 148 Moonlight View of Plaza and Cathedral 149 Augustin de Iturbide, Grandson of the Liberator 151 Granting Absolution in the Cathedral 153 Ready for Mass 154 Old Spanish Palace in the Calle de Jesus 154 Church built by Cortez 155 The Aztec Calendar-stone 156 Indian Picture-writing 157 Tenochtitlan, A.D. 1517 158 First Cavalry Charge by Cortez 158 A Flower-show in the Zocalo 159 How the Mantilla is Worn 160 The Trogon 161 Near the Plaza 162 Wax Model of Water-carrier 163 Ancient Indian Pottery 164 Mexican House-maid and Children 165 The Sacrificial Stone 166 One Form of Sacrificial Stone 167 Sacrificial Collar 167 The Form of Sacrifice 168 Sculptures from Tizoc's Stone 169 Gladiatorial Stone--from an Aztec Drawing 170 Huitzilopochtli, the God of War 171 The National Palace 173 Gen. Manuel Gonzales, former President of Mexico 174 Collateral in the Monte de Piedad 175 To the Pawn-shop 176 Occasional Patrons of the Monte de Piedad 177 A Gift to Fred 179 "My house and all it contains are yours" 181 Seeing and Being Seen 182 The Market-place, City of Mexico 184 Interior of a House near the Market-place 185 Mexican Bird-sellers 186 View on the Canal 187 Residence on the Banks of the Canal 188 Sunday Diversions at Santa Anita 189 Crew of a Cargo-boat 190 Chinampas, or Floating Gardens 191 Peon's House on a Chinampa 192 Cactus Growths near the Hill of Estrella 193 Rock Inscriptions made by Ancient Aztecs 194 Home Scene near the Lake 195 A Dead Fly 196 Ruins of a Toltec House 197 A Fortunate Bear 198 Mexican Courtship 199 Code-signalling with the Fan 200 "There he is" 201 A Student of "El Secretario" 202 Mexican Wedding in the Country 203 Flowers for a Lady 204 Funeral of General Doblado, Guanajuato 205 Soldiers' Monument in the American Cemetery 207 Taking Things Easy 209 A Charcoal Peddler 210 A Mexican Wash-house 211 The Landing of Columbus 212 Mexican Sculpture--Door-way of Church of San José 213 Las Casas Protecting the Aztecs 215 The Death of Atala 217 A Successful Artist at Work 218 Maguey Plant 219 The Tlachiquero 220 Extracting Aguamiel 222 A Glass of Aguardiente 223 "Not caught yet" 224 A Magistrate 225 An Old Offender 226 Scene of the Capture 228 A Corner of Chapultepec 229 Montezuma's Tree 230 Statue of Columbus on the Paseo de la Reforma 231 San Cosme Aqueduct 233 Montezuma's Bath 234 Chapultepec and its Gardens 235 El Salto del Agua 236 An Aztec Relic 237 The Valley of Mexico, from the American Official Map 239 View of the Fort of San Juan de Ulloa from Vera Cruz 240 Battle of Cerro Gordo 241 General Santa Anna 242 Battle of Churubusco--Charge of the "Palmettos" 243 Storming of Molino del Rey 244 General Scott's Entrance into Mexico 245 Captured at Chapultepec 246 A Scene of Peace 247 The Noche Triste Tree 248 Departure of Cortez from Cuba 249 The First Mass in the Temples of Yucatan 250 Battle with the Indians 251 First View of the Mexican Capital 252 The Meeting of Cortez and Montezuma 253 The Battle upon the Causeway 255 The Capture of Guatemozin 256 Ponce de Leon 257 The Church of Guadalupe 258 Statuette of the Virgin Mary 259 Making a Pilgrimage Comfortably 261 The Penitentes Walking on Cactus-leaves 262 San Franciscan Mission 263 Indian of Northern Mexico 264 A Mestizo Woman 265 Indian Girl Spinning Cotton 267 Peddler of Wooden Trays 268 Charcoal Vender 269 Of the Old Aristocracy 270 A Creole Residence 271 Group of Mexican Horsemen 272 A Society Belle 273 A Mexican Grandee 274 A Sermon in the Church 275 Church of San Domingo 276 Torture Chamber 277 Prisoners of the Inquisition 278 A Residence in the Foot-hills 279 The Valley of Amecameca 280 Iztaccihuatl, the White Woman 282 Along the Trail 284 Dwarf Pines at a High Elevation 285 The Dome of Popocatepetl from Tlamacas 286 Mexican Saw-mill 287 Hacienda of Tomacoco 288 Volcaneros (Miners) 289 In the Pine Region 291 El Pico del Fraile 292 Not a Good Climber 294 "No mountain for me!" 295 "Hurrah for the top!" 296 The Crater of Popocatepetl 297 Bringing Ice from the Mountain 299 Pack-train from Tlamacas 301 An Improved Refinery 303 Looking from the Top of Popocatepetl 304 A Dangerous Place 305 Ruins of Tlalmanalco 307 Burial-ground of Tenenepanco 308 Vases Found at Tenenepanco 309 Caricature of an Aztec Warrior 310 Ancient Aztec Vases 311 Wants a Souvenir 312 Ruins of San Lazero 313 On the Way to Church 314 Monks at their Musical Exercise 315 A Belle of the Opera 316 A Stage Brigand 317 Tivoli Garden, San Cosme 319 Teasing the Bull 320 Picadores 320 The Matador's Triumph 320 The Final Blow 321 Scenes at a Bull-fight 322 A Bull-ring of the Highest Class 323 A School on the Old Model 324 Figure of Joseph (Procession of the Posada) 325 The Railway Judas 327 Warrior's Profile, found at Tula 329 Church and Part of Plaza at Tula 330 Toltec King and his Throne 331 Ruins of a Toltec Palace 332 The Pyramid of the Sun at Tula 333 Parts of a Column, Tula 335 Toltec Caryatid, Tula 336 Native Hut on a Sugar Estate 337 Henequin Plant 338 Fight between Regulars and Insurgents 339 Railway Crossing a Barranca 340 A Product of Cuautla 341 Travellers Resting 342 Over the Hills 343 A Scorpion of Cuernavaca 343 A Church Going to Decay 344 Mexican House with Tiled Roof 345 Climbing the Heights 347 A Way-side Shrine 348 On the Road to Acapulco 349 A Country Hotel 350 Galleon of the Sixteenth Century 351 Town and Castle of Acapulco 353 A Scene on the Diligence Road 354 An Interior Town 355 At the Hacienda 356 A Corner of the Market-place 357 Court-yard of a Private House 359 In the Poor Quarters 360 Mexicans Planting Corn 361 A Rodeo 362 Driving a Herd 363 President Porfirio Diaz 365 View in Oajaca 366 Saved from the Sea 367 House with Tile Front 369 American Residents of Mexico 371 A Military Post 372 A Country Post-office 373 Compositor for _The Two Republics_ 374 Surveying under Difficulties 376 Ruins of the Covered Way to the Inquisition 377 Cathedral of Puebla 378 Street Scene in Puebla 379 Part of Puebla 380 Pyramid of Cholula 382 View from the Top of the Pyramid 383 Sport at Cholula 384 Local Freight Train 385 A Relic of the Past 386 Indian Farm Laborers 387 An Aztec Relic 388 Interior of an Old Church 389 First Christian Pulpit in America 390 Old Baptismal Font, Tlascala 391 Ancient Bells 392 A Native Ploughman 393 The "Portales," or Covered Walks 394 Map of Railway between City of Mexico and Vera Cruz 395 Double-ender Locomotive on Mexican Railway 397 View of Orizaba 398 The River at Orizaba 399 Hill of El Barrago 401 Orange Grove in Cordoba 402 Coffee-drying 403 Bridge of Attoyac 405 In Tierra Caliente 406 Vera Cruz, looking seaward 407 After the Vomito 409 A Coffee-carrier 410 Fountain at Vera Cruz 412 The Governor's Palace 413 On the Way to the Fort 414 The National Bridge.--Robbing a Coach 416 Sketched at Rinconada 417 Part of Jalapa 418 A Narrow Street 419 Exterior of a Church 421 A Tourist 422 On the River's Bank 423 A Steamship on a Platform Car 424 Plane and Elevation of Terminus 425 Tank Carriage 426 Section of Part of Cradle Carriage 427 Map of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec 429 Mahogany Hunters 430 Travelling in Tabasco 431 Plan of Part of the Palace at Palenque 433 Medallion Bass-relief 434 Idol in Temple at Lorillard City 435 The Cross of Palenque 436 Grand Hall at Mitla 437 Exterior of Temple at Mitla 438 In the Forest 439 John L. Stephens 440 Seeking the Mysterious City 441 Campeachy Tobacco 443 The Quezal 444 Difficulties of Travel in Campeachy 445 Map of Yucatan 447 Tropical Railway Train and Station 448 Flock of Pelicans 449 Sisal-hemp 450 Indians of Yucatan 451 Retreating from Hostile Indians 453 In the Outskirts 454 The Calesa.--Entrance of a Merida House 455 House built by Montejo 457 Musical Instruments 458 Municipal Palace and Square, Merida 459 Dancing Scene 460 Native Village in the Interior 461 Fruit-sellers in the Market-place 463 Sitting for her Portrait 464 In the Market-place 465 No more "Loteria" 467 Hammock Lodgings in the Country 468 View on a Back Street 469 Scene in a Ball-room 471 Indians Dancing 473 Preparing for the Ball 475 A Volan Coché 476 A Street in Merida 477 A Primitive Sugar-mill 479 Railway-station in the Henequin District 480 Storehouse at the Hacienda 481 A Morning Run 482 A Corner of the Hacienda 483 An Underground Walk 484 Formation of Stalactites 485 At a Noria 487 At Home in Merida 489 Scene of the Heetzmek 490 Garden of the Hacienda 491 Native Village near Uxmal 493 Hunting the Iguana 494 What Perfumes the Honey 495 The Sierra from the Garden of the Hacienda 496 Side of Ancient Altar 497 Archway of Las Monjas, Uxmal 498 Hacienda of Uxmal 499 Dwarf's House and East Wing of the Casa de las Monjas 501 Façade of West Wing of Casa de las Monjas 503 Ground-plan of Las Monjas 504 Casa del Gobernador 505 Ground-plan of Casa del Gobernador 506 Statue of Double-headed Dog, Uxmal 507 Decorations over Door-way of Casa del Gobernador 509 An Unwelcome Visitor 510 Statue of Chac-Mool 511 Maya Arches 512 Yucateo Sculpture 513 Great Mound at Mayapan 514 Circular Edifice at Mayapan 515 Sculptured Head of Yucatan 517 Pillars of Great Gallery, Aké 519 Head of Incense-burner 520 Maya Sculpture (Profile) 520 Ruined Arch at Kabah 521 Façade of El Castillo 522 Bass-relief, Chichen-Itza 523 Door-posts in Tennis-court 524 Casa Colorada 525 Head of War-god, from Copan 526 Idol of Copan (from Stephens) 527 Decoration over Door-way 528 Map of Central America 529 In a Central American Forest 530 Government Palace, San José 531 Central American Lodgings 533 Banana Plantation in Costa Rica 534 Don Bernardo de Soto, President of Costa Rica 535 Gen. Luis Bogran, President of Honduras 536 Tegucigalpa, Capital of Honduras 537 Street in Yuscaran 538 Old Bridge at Tegucigalpa 539 Statue of Morazan, Tegucigalpa 540 Bird's-eye View of the Nicaragua Canal 541 Profile of Nicaragua Canal 542 A Section of the Canal 543 River San Juan at Toro Rapids 544 Street in Greytown 545 El Castillo, San Juan River 546 View of Lake Nicaragua 547 Mozo in Full Dress 548 Fort San Carlos 549 Native Boats, Lake Nicaragua 550 Central American Hacienda 551 Birds of Nicaragua 552

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN MEXICO.