PART II--A Netted Hammock
A good hammock should be about 12 ft. long, which includes 8 ft. of network and 2 ft., at each end, of long cords that are attached to rings. Seine twine, of 24-ply, is the best material and it will take 1¹⁄₂ lb. to make a hammock. The twine comes in ¹⁄₂-lb. skeins and should be wound into balls to keep it from knotting before the right time. Two galvanized rings, about 2¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, are required.
The equipment for netting a hammock consists of a wood needle, or shuttle, a gauge board for the long meshes at the ends, and a mesh stick for the regular netting of the main body of the hammock, all of which will be described in detail.
The shuttle is made of wood and is 12 in. long, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide, and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. The best material to use is maple or other hard wood, but very satisfactory ones can be cut from good-grained pine. The sketch, Fig. 1, shows the general shape of the shuttle, one end being pointed and the other forked. Lay out the pointed end before beginning to cut down to size. Place a compass at the center of the end, and with a radius of 1¹⁄₂ in. describe the arc AB. With the intersections of this arc and the side lines of the needle, C and D, as centers, and the same radius, 1¹⁄₂ in., cut the arc AB at E and F. With E and F as centers draw the curves of the end of the shuttle. The reason for placing the centers outside of the shuttle lines is to obtain a longer curve to the end. The curves can be drawn free-hand but will then not be so good.
The space across the needle at GH is divided into five ¹⁄₄-in. divisions. The centers of the holes J and K at the base of the tongue are 3¹⁄₂ in. from the pointed end. The opening is 2³⁄₄ in. long. Bore a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the right end of the opening, and just to the left three holes, as shown by the dotted lines. With a coping saw cut out along the lines and finish with a knife, file and sandpaper. Round off the edges as shown by the sectional detail. It is well to bevel the curve at L so that the shuttle will wind easily. The fork is ³⁄₄ in. deep, each prong being ¹⁄₄ in wide. Slant the point of the shuttle and round off all edges throughout and sandpaper smooth.
The gauge board, Fig. 2, is used for making the long meshes at both ends of the hammock. It is a board about 3 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. An eight-penny nail is driven into the board 1 in. from the right edge and 2 in. from the end, as shown by M, allowing it to project about 1 in. and slanting a little toward the end; the other nail N will be located later.
The mesh stick, Fig. 3, should be made of maple, 8 in. long, 1³⁄₄ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. Round off the edges and sandpaper them very smooth.
The making of the net by a specially devised shuttle is called “natting,” or netting, when done with a fine thread and a suitably fine shuttle. Much may be done in unique lace-work designs and when coarser material and large shuttles are used, such articles as fish nets, tennis nets and hammocks may be made. The old knot used in natting was difficult to learn and there was a knack to it that was easily forgotten, but there is a slight modification of this knot that is quite easy to learn and to make The modified knot will be the one described.
The shuttle is first wound by looping the cord over the tongue, as shown in Fig. 4, then bringing it down to the forked end and up to the opening on the opposite side; then the cord is again looped over the tongue and returned to the fork or place of starting. Continue winding back and forth until the shuttle is full. The shuttle will accommodate from 20 to 35 complete rounds. If the shuttle is too full it crowds in passing through the meshes and delays the work.
Attach one of the galvanized rings by means of a short cord to the nail in the gauge board, as shown in Fig. 2. At a point 2 ft. from the lower edge of the ring, drive an eight-penny finishing nail, N. Tie the cord end of the shuttle to the ring, bring the shuttle down and around the nail N; then bring it back and pass it through the ring from the under side. The cord will then appear as shown. A part of the ring projects over the edge of the board to make it easier to pass the shuttle through. Draw the cord up tightly and put the thumb on top of the cord O, Fig. 5, to prevent it from slipping back, then throw a loop of the cord to the left over the thumb and up over a portion of the ring and pass the shuttle under the two taut cords and bring it up between the thumb and the two cords, as shown. Draw the looped knot tight under the thumb. Slip the long loop off the nail N and tie a simple knot at the mark P. This last knot is tied in the long loop to prevent looseness. Proceed with the next loop as with the first and repeat until there are 30 long meshes.
After completing these meshes anchor the ring by its short cord to a hook or other stationary object. The anchorage should be a little above the level for tying the knots of the net. Tie the cord of the shuttle to the left outside loop and always work from the left to the right; and the first time across see that the long meshes do not cross over each other, but are kept in the order in which they are attached to the ring.
After tying the cord to the mesh 1, Fig. 6, bring the mesh stick into use. Pass the cord down over the mesh stick, drawing the lower end of the loop down until it comes against the upper side of the mesh stick and put the thumb down upon it in this position to prevent slipping. Pass the shuttle up through the loop 2 and draw that down to the mesh stick. Shift the thumb from the first position to the second. Throw the cord to the left over the thumb and about the loop 2, as shown in Fig. 7, and bring the shuttle under both of the cords of mesh 2 and up between the large backward loop and the cords of the mesh 2. Without removing the thumb draw up the knot very tight. This makes the first netting knot. Continue the cord around the mesh stick, pass it up through mesh 3, throw the backward loop, put the shuttle under and up to the left of the mesh 3 and draw very tight, and do not allow a mesh to be drawn down below the upper side of the mesh stick. Some of these cautions are practically repeated, but if a mesh is allowed to get irregular, it will give trouble in future operations.
Continue across the series until all of the long loops have been used and this will bring the work to the right side. Flip the whole thing over, and the cord will be at the left, ready to begin again. Slip all the meshes off the mesh stick. It makes no difference when the meshes are taken off the stick but they must all come off before a new row is begun. Having the ring attached to the anchorage by a cord makes it easy to flip the work over. Be sure to flip to the right and then to the left alternately to prevent the twisting, which would result if turned one way all the time.
The first mesh each time across is just a little different problem from all the others, which may be better understood by reference to Fig. 8. The knots Q, R, and S are of the next previous series. The cord is brought down over the mesh stick and up through mesh 1, and when the loop is brought down it may not draw to the mesh stick at its center; it is apt to do otherwise and a sideway pull is necessary, which is pulled so that the knots Q and R are side by side, then the knot at T may be tied. When the mesh 2 is drawn down it should pull to place without shifting, and also all the others of that row.
Continue the use of the mesh stick until a net 8 ft. long is made. When the cord gives out rewind the shuttle and tie with a small knot that will not slip. The weaver’s knot is good if known, or the simple square knot shown in Fig. 9 is very good. It is too easy to make to need direction, but unless it is thrown over just right it will slip. Let U, Fig. 8, represent the short cord and V the new piece to be added. Place the cord V back of U and give U a complete turn around V, Fig. 9, and bring them together at a point above U, then to the front. Repeat the complete turn of U about V, shown by the dotted line, and pull tightly. If analyzed, it consists of two loops that are just alike and linked together as shown in Fig. 10.
When the 8 ft. of netting has been completed, proceed to make the long loops as at the beginning. The same gauge board can be used, but the tying occurs at both ends, and since the pairs cannot be knotted in the center, two or three twists can be given by the second about the first of each pair. The long loops and the net are attached together as shown in Fig. 11. Slip one of the meshes of the last run over the nail N, and when the cord comes down from the ring, the shuttle passes through the same mesh, and when drawn up, the farthest point of the mesh comes against the nail. After this long loop has been secured at the ring, the first mesh is slipped off and the next put on. All of the long loops at this end will be about three inches shorter than at the other end, unless the finishing nail N is moved down. This will not be necessary.
With a piece of cord about six feet long, start quite close to the ring and wind all the cords of the long loops together. The winding should be made very tight, and it is best to loop under with each coil. This is shown in Fig. 12.
The hammock is now ready for use. Some like a soft, small rope run through the outside edges lengthwise, others prefer a fringe, and either can be added. The fringe can be attached about six meshes down from the upper edge of the sides. The hammock should have a stretcher at each end of the netted portion, but not as long as those required for web hammocks.
Gourd Float for a Fishline
A unique as well as practical fishing-line float can be made of a small gourd. After the gourd has dried sufficiently, wire loops, to hold the line, are inserted, or rather, a single wire is run through and looped at both ends. The contents of the gourd need not be removed. Dip the float in a can of varnish, or apply the varnish with a brush.
Homemade Arc Light
Those who wish to produce an arc light for experimental purposes, or for the brief periods required by photography, will find the method of construction shown in the sketch very simple and inexpensive. Using the short lengths of carbons discarded by moving-picture operators, there is no difficulty in maintaining a good arc for 15 minutes, or more, without once manipulating the adjusting screw at the top.
Only three pieces of wood are necessary besides the base, and in the preparation of these no particular care is necessary except to have the top arm swing freely up and down without any appreciable side movement. The carbon holders are merely strips of heavy tin, which need only be screwed up sufficiently tight to hold the carbons in place and yet permit their being pushed up when the top adjusting screw will no longer operate. This adjustment may be readily taken care of by means of a long, slender wood screw with the point filed off and a metal disk soldered to the top. Connections are made to the carbon holders either under a screw head or by soldering the wires to the metal.
In operating any arc light on the commercial 110-volt current some resistance must be placed in the circuit. An earthen jar of water with two strips of tin or lead for electrodes, will answer every purpose.
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¶A small leak in an oil or water pipe on an automobile can be temporarily stopped by melting a piece of rubber over the hole.
Ornamental Pencil and Pincushion Holder
A nicely polished animal horn may be turned into an article of utility instead of being merely used as a wall ornament, as shown in the illustration. An old lamp base, heavy enough to balance the horn, and secured to it with a bolt, is all that is needed to effect the transformation.
Knife to Trim Magazines for Binding
There has been a number of descriptions telling how to bind magazines, but none how to trim the edges after having bound them. Desiring to have my home-bound volumes appear as well as the other books, I made a trimmer as follows:
Any large knife with a straight edge will do for the cutter. I used a large hay knife. A ³⁄₈-in. hole was drilled in the untempered portion near the back of the handle end. Two U-shaped supports were made of metal and fastened to the top of an old table, between which the knife was fastened with a bolt. A piece of timber, 6 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and 2 in. thick, was used as a lever. One end of this piece had a U-shaped notch cut in it to straddle the supports under the projecting ends. A board was attached to the table top, having one straight edge set where the knife edge would just pass it.
If the knife has a good sharp edge it will do very satisfactory work. When the edges are trimmed the knife can be removed and used for its original work.--Contributed by E. S. Mundell, Lowpoint, Ill.
How to Repair Rubber Gloves
While making a bunglesome job of patching a pair of rubber gloves, which I used to keep the stains from my fingers while developing photographic plates, a physician friend happened along and told me how to do it properly. The method is as follows: Procure a piece of card, such as heavy Bristol board used for filing cards; spread it on one side, rather thick, with ordinary library paste and stick it to the rubber tissue, preferably dentists’ rubber dam of light weight; smooth it flat, and let the paste dry. When a patch is needed cut one out, rubber and card together, and fit it to the cut in the glove. Put the glove on the hand inside out, moisten the patch with cement, let it dry for a few seconds and then press it in place hard. If the tear is large, it is easier to lay the moistened patch down and fit the edges of the tear to it, then press hard in place. After the cement has thoroughly dried out, soak the patch in water and remove the bit of card. This gives a patch fastened securely to the extreme edges; flat, water-tight, and as fit to stand boiling as any patch, for sterilizing. After removing the card, the glove is dusted with talcum.--Contributed by J. S. Hogans, Uniontown, Pa.
Miniature Metal-Bound Chests
BY F. E. TUCK
Boys in a manual-training class became very enthusiastic over the making of small chestlike boxes, bound with ornamental metal, and adapted them to a great variety of uses. The boxes were designed to suit the taste of the maker and for use as glove, handkerchief, jewelry, toilet, treasure and other boxes, lined with silk, and finished in wax and varnish, in various stains. Oak was used for most of them, and the metals employed were largely copper and brass, although silver is suitable for small boxes. They are simple in construction, as shown in the working drawings, and can be made in the home workshop. The photograph reproduced shows a group of boxes, for various purposes, and in several styles of metal binding. The long box at the top is for gloves or ties; the larger ones are for the boys’ personal use, caring for collars, handkerchiefs, etc.; the smaller boxes are for the dresser, providing for the care of jewelry and similar small articles. The boxes proved great favorites as gifts, and the monogram of the recipient may be etched into the metal.
Well-seasoned oak is the most suitable material for the making of the boxes, as it harmonizes well with the plain metal trimmings. The quarter-sawed variety is preferable, being more ornamental, and less likely to warp or twist. For most of the boxes, stock ³⁄₈ in. thick is suitable, although this may be cut down to ⁵⁄₁₆ in. for the smaller boxes, if convenient. The method of joining the pieces is similar in all the varieties of boxes, and the jewel box illustrated in the working drawings will be taken as a specimen. The sides of the box are butted against the ends, lapping over them, flush, and nailed with small brads. The bottom is fitted between the sides and ends, and nailed so that the nails are concealed by the metal bands, at the four corners, and at other points, if bands are placed near the middle. The stock for the box is cut and finished on all sides to the following dimensions: all pieces to be ³⁄₈ in. thick; top, 4¹⁄₂ by 7¹⁄₂ in.; two sides, 1⁷⁄₈ by 7 in.; two ends, 1⁷⁄₈ by 4 in.; bottom, 3¹⁄₄ by 6¹⁄₄ inches.
All the pieces should be scraped carefully to a smooth finish, and the nails started with an awl, or a slightly flattened nail of the same size, fitted into a hand drill. Extreme care must be taken, in nailing, that the surface of the wood is not marred, which is likely to occur if the nails are driven into the wood too rapidly, or without starting holes for them. The feet are cut from a strip, ³⁄₈ in. thick and ³⁄₄ in. wide, the cut edges being sandpapered smooth without destroying the squareness and the sharp corners. They are nailed to the bottom of the box with brads, care being taken to have the end grain of each block at the end of the box, particularly if the metal trimmings do not cover the blocks.
The cover is fixed in place with small plain butts, countersunk into the wood, one leaf into the top and the other into the back of the box. A simpler method is to set both leaves of the hinge into the edge of the back. Care must be taken in fitting the hinges that they are set in line with the back of the box, and holes for the screws should be made before driving them into place. Too much care cannot be taken with the fitting of the hinges, as the proper fitting of the lid, both as to resting level and being in line with the edges of the box, depends on the fitting of the hinges.
After the construction work and nailing is completed, the box may be sandpapered carefully, rubbing in the direction of the grain, and being careful not to round off the edges unduly. The oversandpapering of woodwork marks the work of the careless novice. The box should be handled as little as possible while the metal trimmings are being fitted, and, before the finish is applied, should be gone over lightly with sandpaper to remove dirt. When the metal pieces are fitted, and ready to be fastened in place, the finish may be applied to the box. Warm browns or other dark-oak finishes, are best suited to the simple style of chest, and the metal fittings. A coat of stain should be applied, and this followed, when dry, by a coat of filler, rubbed well into the pores of the wood. The filler should be permitted to dry hard and the surface is then sandpapered very lightly with a fine grade of paper--No. 00 is best. Do not rub through the filler or stain, particularly at the corners. Wax is the most readily applied outer finish. Several coats may be used to give a substantial finish. A coat of shellac, followed by coats of rubbing varnish, dried well and rubbed between coats with No. 00 sandpaper may be applied for a high-gloss finish. This is a more involved process and requires that the varnish be rubbed down with pumice stone and water, and finished with an oil polish.
Copper or brass, of No. 20 gauge or lighter, is suitable for the making of the trimmings. The details of the handles are shown in the sketch, at the right. Cut a back plate, ⁷⁄₈ in. by 1¹⁄₄ in., and fit the handle of wire to it by means of a strap, bent from a strip of metal, ³⁄₈ in. by ⁷⁄₈ in. The other bands are merely strips, ¹⁄₂ to ³⁄₄ in. in width and fitted to the size of the box, where applied. Strap hinges of the same metal may be made, but the most convenient method for the amateur is to fit the metal strips into place at the hinges, merely as ornamental features. Various types of locks may be fitted into the box, and for the worker having the necessary skill, it is interesting to make a hasp, as indicated in the sketch.
The designing and making of the metal trimmings affords unlimited opportunity for originality, and a good plan is to fit the desired strips, cut from paper, to the box before making them of the metal. It is well to remember, in this connection, that the simple bands and forms are better suited to the plain box than ornate trimmings. Having determined upon suitable patterns for the metal strips, cut them from the sheet with snips, or tinner’s shears, care being taken to produce a smooth edge. A file may be used to remove roughnesses and to round the edges of the metal slightly. The metal is fastened with escutcheon pins, which add to the ornamental effect if properly spaced. Holes for them must be drilled, or punched, through the metal.
The metal may be left smooth and polished, or hammered with the round end of a ball-peen hammer, to produce the dented effect shown on several of the boxes in the group. This, as well as other finishing of the metal, must be done before it is fixed in place. Beautiful colors may be given to the metal by heating it, and observing the colors as they “run.” A trial will enable one to judge the proper heat for the various colors, which “run” from a light straw to a deep purple, with various reddish intermediate tones. A brown oxidized finish, or a verd-antique--greenish--finish may also be obtained. The metal should be polished with wax to preserve the finish if other than the latter type is used.
The boxes are lined with silk or other suitable material. The method is as follows: Cut cardboard pieces to fit against the inner sides of the bottom, sides, and ends. Pad one side of them with cotton batting, and cover with silk, gluing the edges of it on the back of the cardboard, as shown in the sketch. By bending the pieces slightly, they may be inserted and glued in place. Care must be taken in handling the glue, that the silk is not soiled. Pads of felt, or chamois skin, may be glued to the bottom of the feet of the box, so as not to mar the surface upon which it rests.
The most popular boxes, which are especially suitable for gift purposes, are the jewelry, glove, and handkerchief boxes. Their dimensions are: jewelry box, 2³⁄₄ by 4 by 7¹⁄₂ in.; glove box, 3¹⁄₄ by 5 by 13 in.; handkerchief box, 4 by 6 by 10 in. Other sizes suited to special purposes may, of course, be designed readily, and made in walnut, mahogany, or other cabinet woods.
A Piano or Reading Lamp
BY WILLIAM E. FINKERNAGEL
The lamp illustrated was designed for use in reading, the doing of hand work at which one is seated in a chair away from a table lamp, or for lighting a piano rack. It is light, readily moved about, easily made, and of pleasing design. It combines construction in wood and metal, is inexpensive, and within the range of a careful amateur craftsman. The pedestal is shown assembled at the left, and above are detailed sketches of the parts. The construction of the shade, which is 18 in. square, is shown at the right. The central post is 40 in. long and 2 in. square, and the base measures 16 in. on the arms.
The stock bill for the lamp is as follows:
1 piece, 2 by 2 in., oak, for post.
2 pieces, 1 by 3 by 16 in., oak, for base.
1 piece, 1 by 6 by 6 in., oak, for cap.
1 piece, 1 by 4 by 4 in., oak, for column base.
1 piece, 1 by 2 by 3 in., oak, for braces.
Copper or brass strip, 1 in. wide and ³⁄₃₂ in. thick, for shade frame. Wire braces for shade.
Make all the pieces, smoothing and finishing their surfaces with a scraper, before assembling the parts. The cap A may be made first. Square the piece to 6 in. and cut a ¹⁄₄-in. chamfer around the upper edge. Cut the 2 by 3-in. block on one of its diagonals and smooth it to form the braces B. Square the ends of the post C to a length of 40 in., and smooth up the sides. Square the column base D to 4 in. and cut a ³⁄₁₆-in. chamfer around its upper side.
Square up and smooth the cross arms E and F, for the base, to a width of 3 in. and a length of 16 in. Bevel the upper corners 1 in., at an angle of 45°. Bore holes with a ¹⁄₂-in. bit to form the rounded ends of the portions cut out from the lower sides of the cross braces. Chisel the wood away between the holes and smooth the resulting surfaces. The half-lap joint, by which the cross braces are joined, may then be made. It should not be made until the lower portions are cut out of the cross braces, and the remaining portions are made of exactly the same width, 2¹⁄₂ in., according to the drawing. The joint must be fitted tightly in what is termed a driving fit, or it will not be strong enough.
The construction may be assembled as follows, although several methods may be adopted that will prove satisfactory: Fix the cap A to the top of the post with glue and ¹⁄₂-in. dowels, bored not quite through the cap. Screws may be used for this purpose, but they mar the finish of the upper surface of the cap. Glue the braces B into the corners to support the cap. They should be warmed before applying the glue and rubbed slightly to bring them into place tightly and to distribute the glue evenly. Small brads may be used to nail them in place, but care must be taken not to mar the finish.
The column base D may be fixed to the bottom of the post in the same way that the cap was fixed at the upper end. The cross braces E and F, forming the base, should be glued in the half-lap joint and fixed to the column base with glue and dowels, or screws sunk into sockets from the lower side of the braces.
When the glue has dried, the pedestal should be scraped and cleaned preparatory to a final sandpapering before applying the stain and varnish.
The arms G for the shade holder are made of strips of brass or copper, 1 in. wide and 8³⁄₄ in. long, bent to the proper form, as shown in the sketch. The straight end, 2 in. long, is provided with two holes through which screws are fixed into the top of the cap.
The shade is constructed as follows: Make a 4-in. square, H, of brass strip, 1 in. wide, and solder or rivet it at the joint. Make the lower square J of the same material and in the same way, 18 in. on each side. Solder ¹⁄₈-in. wire, of a length that will give the desired slant to the shade, at the corners of the squares, forming a rigid frame for the covering. Cloth or silk may be used to cover the frame.
The braces for the shade may then be fastened to the top of the cap, as shown in the assembly sketch, and their ends shaped to hold the frame firmly. The pedestal should be smoothed off immediately preparatory to finishing, and the sharp edges removed slightly. Care should be taken in sandpapering, since rubbing across the grain is ruinous, as is too much sandpapering. The latter particularly smacks of the novice. A coat of stain, one of filler rubbed in thoroughly, a coat of shellac, and a finish coat of wax or varnish will give a satisfactory finish. The shellac and varnish coats should be permitted to dry thoroughly and should then be sandpapered lightly before applying other coats.
The electrical connections for the lamp may be made from a cord extension to a socket fixed in the center of the cap. In some instances it may be desirable to connect the cord from a floor socket. In that case the post should be built up of two pieces of 1-in. thickness, and a groove to admit the cord made in the center of it.
Sewing Rack Attached to Rocker
A rack like that shown in the illustration is convenient as a support for articles being sewed or repaired by the home worker. It was made by fastening two bars from a towel rack to the arm of the rocker by means of a bolt. When not in use, the bars are folded back under the arm of the chair. One of the bars may be provided with hooks so that scissors and other sewing requisites may be placed on them.--Mrs. J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.
Glass Bottle as a Candle Lamp
A candle may be carried in a glass bottle, as shown in the sketch, with little danger of setting fire to surrounding objects, and without permitting the melted wax to leak upon the floor. The bottom of the bottle is cut off and the candle inserted as shown, the neck affording a convenient handle.--Stanley Radcliffe, Laurel, Md.
A Folding Wall Desk
To provide an inexpensive desk in a shop, where space was quite limited, the folding wall desk shown in the sketch was devised. It was cut from a packing box and the hinged lid built up of boards of better quality. To give a good writing surface, a piece of heavy cardboard was fastened to the writing bed with thumb tacks and may be renewed whenever necessary. The inside of the desk was fitted with filing compartments arranged to care for a large variety of shop forms and stationery. An inkwell holder made of a strip of sheet metal was fixed to the end of the desk and the bottle suspended in it, there being space for additional bottles also. The hinged lid is provided with a hasp and padlock. When not in use the desk may be tilted upward and locked against the wall with small catches. By using a T-square against the left edge of the writing bed, a convenient drafting table for shop sketching is provided.
The detailed construction, for the making of the desk from stock lumber, by boys, or amateur workers with tools, may be carried out as follows: Determine upon the size of the proposed desk. Convenient dimensions are 30 in. long, 18 in. wide, 7 in. high at the back, and 4 in. high at the front. Use ⁷⁄₈-in. soft wood; pine and poplar are suitable. Cut and shape all the pieces before beginning the assembling of the parts. The wood should be planed smooth and may be sandpapered lightly when the construction is completed, before applying a finish. A simple arrangement of the pieces so they can be nailed together is that shown in the sketch, which was used in making the box. First shape the pieces for the sides, 5¹⁄₄ in. wide at the larger end, 2¹⁄₄ in. wide at the smaller, and 16¹⁄₄ in. long. Clamp the boards together, or tack them with two wire nails while shaping them, so that they will be exactly alike. Make a piece 5¹⁄₂ in. wide and 30 in. long for the back, and one the same length and 2¹⁄₂ in. wide for the front. Nail them to the ends, as shown, permitting the slight excess material to project over the upper edges of the sidepieces. Trim off this extra stock with a plane so that the upper surfaces of the front and back conform to the slant of the sidepieces. Make a strip 4 in. wide for the upper edge of the desk, to which the writing bed is hinged. Cut pieces for the bottom and nail them in place.
Before nailing down the upper hinge strip the interior fittings should be made. Use wood not thicker than ¹⁄₂ in., and fit the pieces into place carefully, nailing them firmly through the outer faces of the desk. A better method is to make the pigeonholes or compartments with a piece of the thin stock on the ends of the partitions, so that the compartments are built up as a unit and slid into the desk, no nails being necessary to hold them.
The lid should be made of sound, dry stock and glued up of strips about 3 in. wide, to prevent it from warping or twisting easily. If the person making the desk has the necessary skill, it is best to fix a strip, 2 in. wide, at each end of the writing bed, to hold the pieces together and to keep the bed in shape.
The holder for the inkwell is made of a 1-in. strip of metal, bent to the shape shown in Fig. 4, and drilled to fit small screws. A can is supported in the holder and the bottle rests in it.
The desk may be finished by painting it or giving it a coat of shellac and one of varnish, either after it has been stained to match adjoining woodwork, or in the natural color.
Sewing Stand with Workbag in Top
The stand shown in the sketch may be made by using part of a small table, or by building the framework especially for the purpose. It was made for use in connection with sewing and fancy work, and provides for the tools and incidental materials necessary. The stand is 28 in. high and about 15 in. square at the top. The bag built into the frame may be made of any strong, suitable material, and its color should match the finish of the wooden part. A row of nails are set in the top edge of the rails to provide for spools of thread and thimbles. Scissors and other tools are placed on the shoulder hooks fastened on the side of the rail.
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¶When paper sticks to a negative during printing remove it by soaking it in the hypo bath, sacrificing the print rather than the negative.
Toy Paper Warships
With a pair of scissors, pins, and a newspaper or two, a fleet of warships can be made to sail the seven seas of polished floors. Strips of paper, through which holes at opposite points have been cut, and pinned together at one end, as shown in Fig. 1, are used for the sides of the boat. Rolls of paper are slipped through the opposite holes, as shown at Fig. 2, and provide support for the deck, which is a flat piece of paper pointed at the end to fit between the sides of the craft. A second deck fitted with funnels and masts, as shown in Fig. 3, is made of a folded piece of paper with holes cut through it for the masts and funnels, which are rolls of paper. If plain paper is used, the warships may be made in several colors, which adds to the effect of rivalry between the fleets. Other types of craft may easily be devised, two of which are shown in Fig. 4. Not only the youngsters in the household, but their elders as well, may find not a little amusement and diversion in the making of a fleet of such warships, modeled after battleships, destroyers, battle cruisers, and other vessels.
Caster Board for Scrubbing and Floorwork
A board for use in work that requires tedious kneeling, as in scrubbing, repairing of sidewalk lights, and similar work, may be made as follows: Procure a board, ⁷⁄₈ by 10 by 14 in., and pad it with a section of carpet. Place three casters under it, two being set at the rear and one at the front edge. If desired, small strips may be nailed at the sides to prevent the knees from slipping off. Such a device enables the user to move along the floor easily without injuring the knees.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
A Lamp Cooker
An ordinary circular-wick kerosene lamp produces enough heat to do considerable cooking, provided the heat is properly utilized. A simple and practicable method of converting such a lamp into a cooker is as follows: Saw a hole, 12 in. square, in the top of a small table, or packing box of about the same height as a table. Cover this with a piece of sheet metal, having a 4-in. hole in the center. Place a 5-in. flowerpot over the hole in the metal, and plug up the hole in the bottom of the pot with fire clay or plaster of Paris. Vegetables in jars may be set around the flowerpot to cook slowly and a roast in a pan on top of it. A wooden box, or metal pail, large enough to cover the arrangement, should be placed over it. Air holes should be provided in the lower box and in the cover.
To operate the device light the lamp and when it is burning brightly, place it under the table, elevating it so that the top of the chimney is in the center and barely within the rim of the flowerpot. Use little water in the vegetables and keep the caps loosely on the jars. The roast, if well buttered, will brown nicely, and while the cooking will require considerably more time than it would in a range, the results will be as good, if not superior. The natural juices are preserved by the slow cooking at comparatively low temperature. The cover may be lifted to turn the meat occasionally. This device will appeal to campers, summer cottagers and others.--W. W. Baldwin, New York, N. Y.
Placing a Miter Box on the Workbench
In placing a miter box on a workbench considerable space is often wasted, and the workman is obstructed. By raising the miter box on the bench mounting it upon two blocks, about 6 in. high and set back about 18 in. from the front of the bench, small space is utilized, and the tool may be used as conveniently as otherwise. The space under the miter box and the open space in front of it are available for the disposal of ordinary tools, and there is no danger of the saw striking them. By making another stand, the height of the bearing surface of the miter box, and moving this about on the bench, long pieces may be handled with ease. This stand is removed from the bench when not in use.--Henry Simon, Laguna Beach, Calif.
A Book and Document Protector
A device for punching identification marks in the pages of books or papers, may be made easily by setting pins into a small box filled with sealing wax. The box should be large enough to accommodate the desired wording without crowding, leaving about ¹⁄₄ in. all around the edge. Cut the box, which may be of cardboard, to a height ¹⁄₁₆ in. less than the length of a common pin. Mark the words to be punched on a piece of cardboard which just fits into the box. Punch holes along the letters and transfer them to the bottom of the box. Insert pins from the outside through the bottom of the box and permit their ends to come out of the holes in the cardboard guide. Cut away enough of the guide piece so that the melted sealing wax can be poured in, setting the pins firmly. The guide piece is then removed, exposing the ends of the pins about ¹⁄₁₆ in. If the work is carefully done they will be of uniform length. Place heavy blotting paper or cardboard under the page when using the punch.--D. G. Stevenson, Chicago, Ill.
Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves Time
The annoyance of having to look for a misplaced blotter or to pick it up each time a signature is to be blotted, may be avoided by the use of the wrist blotter shown in the sketch. It is made by folding a piece of blotting paper, 6 in. wide and 12 in. long, into three sections. A rubber band is placed in the fold of the blotter and passed around the wrist, thus holding it in place until no longer needed. When one portion of the blotter becomes soiled, the folding may be reversed and a new surface exposed.--Frank W. Roth, Joplin, Mo.
Celluloid Cover for Road Maps
Road maps are easily soiled and torn unless properly protected, and a satisfactory case to hold them should provide for conveniently examining the map. A piece of transparent celluloid about twice the size of the map when folded can be made into a suitable cover. Fold the celluloid into an envelope form and rivet or sew the ends, leaving the fourth edge open. The map is inserted in the cover with the desired section uppermost, affording protection and ready access at the same time.
Shield for Heater in Chick Brooding House
A shield of sheet metal, having a small heater in the center of it, provides a good means of warming a brooding house for small chicks. The heat is radiated from the shield and the chicks remain at a distance, seeking a comfortable temperature. The device may be made easily by cutting a sheet of metal to form a cone-shaped hood and fitting it with a vent passing out through the roof of the house.--Samuel S. Snelbaker, York, Pa.
Kink for Removal of Wall Paper
Removing old wall paper, particularly from the ceiling of a room, is a disagreeable task at best, and the device shown in the sketch aids in the process. A board, about 15 in. long and 12 in. wide, was provided with strips at its edges and a pad of flannel was fitted into it. The device is used by moistening the pad and applying it to the wall paper. The paper is loosened thoroughly and may be removed in pieces of considerable size. This method has been found much quicker than that of soaking the paper with a moistened brush.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Canada.
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¶A clay pipe may be used as a crucible for melting small quantities of metal. The stem is broken off and a plug fitted into it.
A Secret Trinket Case for the Bookshelf
BY T. H. LINTHICUM
Practical use as well as the novelty of its construction makes the trinket case shown in the illustration well worth the time and effort necessary to make it. Various kinds of wood--preferably of the better cabinet varieties--are suited to the design shown, which was made of ³⁄₁₆-in. stock, like that used in cigar boxes. The size shown is that of a bound volume of a magazine like Popular Mechanics, and may be adapted to special needs. The back and the cover slide in grooves, which are not visible when the “book” is closed, making it difficult and interesting for one to discover how the case is opened. The back may be marked and lettered to resemble a bound volume closely, and if special secrecy is desired, it may even be covered with leather, in exact duplication of those on a bound set of magazines kept in the bookcase with it.
Make the pieces for the frame of the box first. If possible, make one strip of the proper width--2 in., in this case--and long enough for the two ends and the front. Make another strip 1³⁄₄ in. wide and long enough for the partition and false back of the tray. Cut these to the lengths indicated in the detailed sketches of the parts. Mark out the grooves in the end pieces carefully and cut them with a saw that cuts a groove ³⁄₃₂ in. wide. The grooves may be cut by clamping a straight strip of wood on the surface of the ends the proper distance from the top, and sawing cautiously along the strip to the proper depth. The grooves across the grain may be cut similarly, or in a miter box.
Glue the pieces of the frame together, taking care that the corners are square. If necessary, place blocks inside to insure that the clamping will not disturb the right angles of the box. Shape the bottom and cover pieces nearly to the final size before gluing them; then, if small nicks are made in the edge, they may be removed by a cut of the plane, when the case is complete. Glue the sliding pieces to the cover and to the back. This must be done carefully, and it is convenient to drive small brads part way into the second piece, from the inner side, to prevent the pieces from slipping while being glued. If proper care is taken, only a small amount of glue will be forced out, and this can be removed with a chisel when dry. The edges may be trimmed off to their exact size, and the entire construction given a final light sandpapering. It is then ready for the stain and shellac, or other finish. The parts that slide in grooves should not be shellacked or varnished, because this is apt to cause them to stick.
A Cylinder Reversing Switch
A cylinder reversing switch for small battery motors may be constructed cheaply, from a 3-in. length of broom handle and ¹⁄₂-in. boards, as shown. The four brushes are strips of copper. The contacts on the moving cylinder are eight brass tacks, connected as indicated in the diagram. The wires are insulated with paper where they cross. The handle is of heavy wire, and two tacks limit its motion, as shown. The method of connecting the switch is as follows, for either a series or shunt motor: Remove the two wires from the motor brushes, and connect the two middle brushes of the switch to the motor brushes. Connect the wires removed from the motor brushes to the outer brushes of the switch.--Claude Schuder, Sumner, Ill.
Summer Radiator Cover Serves as Cupboard in Winter
Because of the accumulation of dust on a kitchen radiator in the summer, a cupboard was built over it, and used at other seasons of the year for the storage of various articles, by fitting it with shelves. While in use as a radiator cover, the top of the cupboard provided a convenient seat. If properly made, cabinets of this type can be used in other parts of the home to advantage.
A Safety Spring for Porch Swings
It is often necessary to hang swinging porch seats fairly close to surrounding woodwork, which is marred by their swinging too far. To overcome this, procure a coil screen-door spring and cut it in two. Bend a hook on each cut end, and fasten one of the springs to the center of each end of the swing, and to the floor. This permits only gentle swinging.--F. C. Hayes, Niagara Falls, Canada.
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¶Proper ventilation of cellars makes it desirable to provide a screen door on the cellar entrance.
Frying Pan Made of Tin Cover
If you want an egg done to perfection try the frying pan made of a tin cover. It was intended for emergency use only, but proved so satisfactory that I kept it as a regular fixture. The wire handle was fitted to the rim through two holes, as shown and hooks under the bottom of the pan, the twisting of the wires giving the required strength.
Safety Cover for Valves on Gas Stove
In order to safeguard the valves of a kitchen gas stove with which children might occasionally meddle, I fitted a sheet-metal cover over the valves as shown in the sketch. The cover is wired to the feed pipe and is swung forward, as indicated by the dotted outline, when not in use. Small catches may be fixed at each end of the cover, if desired.--Leroy Schenck, Mount Vernon, N. Y.
A Come-Back Rolling Can
An interesting toy may be made by fitting a rubber band into a tin can and weighting it as shown. When the can is rolled on the floor it will return to its original place by reason of the weight which is supported on a string at the middle of the rubber band. The latter is passed through two holes at each end of the can, and when the can is rolled along the floor the elastic is wound at the middle. The weight reverses the direction of rolling.--Albert French, Hamilton, Ontario, Can.
Removable Paraffin Covers for Jars
To remove paraffin from the tops of glasses or jars of preserves, without getting bits of the covering into the contents, is difficult. When pouring the melted paraffin over the top, put a small cork in the center and let the paraffin harden around it, as shown. To remove the covering, dip the top of the glass in hot water. This sealing can be used again by placing it on the top of hot jelly, the paraffin melting and adhering to the glass.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
A Marble-under-Bridge Game of Skill
The object of this game is to pass a marble from one end to the other of the “roadway,” under the “bridges,” and over the “inclines,” without dropping it. A stop must be made at each hole. The device is made as follows: Cut two pieces of wood, ¹⁄₄ by 1³⁄₄ by 12 in., and join them to form a right angle. Cut pieces of cardboard, 4 each, 1³⁄₄ by 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, with a ³⁄₄-in. hole in the center, for inclines B, and 1³⁄₄ by 3 in., for bridges A; also two pieces 1³⁄₄ in. square for stops C. Fasten them with tacks as shown. The marble should be large enough so that it will rest in the holes at B.
Homemade toys and gifts, as well as the “treasure boxes” in which they are contained, have an added interest both to the one making and the one receiving them. The holiday season makes this work especially attractive, which affords opportunity for individuality in construction and design limited only by the skill of the worker. The decorated toys and the box described in detail in this article are suggestive only, and may be adapted to a large variety of forms and designs. The gorgeously colored parrot and the gayly caparisoned rider and horse suggest a host of bird and animal forms, those having possibilities for attractive coloring being most desirable. The decorated box shown in Fig. 7 may be adapted as a gift box, to be used where its decoration may be seen, in the nursery, for example, and may be made in many forms, in fact as various as cardboard boxes are. Plant, animal, or geometrical forms may be used to work out designs, and appropriate color schemes applied to them. A good plan in determining upon a color scheme is to use the colors of the flower or other motif. If the design is not associated with objects having varied colors--a geometrical design, for instance--harmonious colors should be chosen. These may be bright and contrasting, as red and green, violet and orange, or subdued in tone.
A design for a horse and rider, brightly colored, is shown in Fig. 1. The form is cut out of thin wood, the color applied, and the figure mounted on the curved wire, weighted at one end, as shown in Fig. 6. The toy adds a touch of color and novelty to a room, when suspended from the corner of the mantel, from a shelf, or other suitable place. Balanced in a striking attitude, forefeet upraised, even grown-ups can hardly resist tipping the rider to see his mount rear still higher. The parrot shown in Fig. 2 is made similarly, and is weighted at the end of the tail. The point of balance is at the feet, which may be fastened to a trapeze, or be arranged to perch on a convenient place, like that suited to the horse and rider.
The tools and equipment necessary for the making of such toys are simple, and available in most boys’ workshops or tool chests. A coping saw, like that shown at A, Fig. 3, is suitable for cutting the wood. A fretsaw, operated by hand, foot or power, may be used, and such a tool makes this work quite rapid. To use the coping saw to the best advantage, particularly if the work is to be done on a table which must not be marred, a sawing board should be made. In its simplest form, this consists of a board, as shown at B, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, and 6 in. long, with one end notched. This is clamped to the end of the table, as at D, with a clamp, an iron one of the type shown at C being satisfactory. Another form of sawing table especially useful when it is desired to stand up at the work, is shown at E in detail and clamped in the vise at F. It consists of a notched board, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, fixed at right angles to a board of similar width, 11 in. long, and braced at the joint with a block about 1³⁄₈ in. square. In using the coping saw with either of these saw tables, the wood is held down on the support, as shown in Fig. 5, and the saw drawn downward for each cutting stroke, thus tending to hold the board more firmly against the saw table. It is, of course, important that the saw be inserted in the coping-saw frame with the teeth pointing toward the handle, so that the method of cutting described may be followed. The wood must be sawed slowly, especially at the beginning of a cut. The operator soon learns the kinks in handling the saw and wood to the best advantage, and can then make rapid progress.
An outline drawing of the form to be cut out of the wood must first be made, to the exact size that the object is to be. There is much satisfaction if working out the form of the animal or other figure, especially for the boy or girl who has the time necessary to do good work. If desired, the figure may be traced from a picture obtained from a book, magazine, or other source. Cut a piece of wood to the size required for the design, and place a sheet of carbon paper over it; or if none is available, rub a sheet of paper with a soft pencil, and use this as a carbon paper, the side covered with the lead being placed next to the wood. The carbon paper and the sheet bearing the design should then be held in place on the wood with thumb tacks, or pins, and the transfer made with a pencil, as shown in Fig. 4. The design should be placed on the wood so that the weaker parts, such as the legs of the horse, will extend with the length instead of across the grain of the wood. In some instances, where a complicated form is cut out, it is necessary to use wood of several plies, and where this is available it is worth while to use it for all of this work. For smaller objects wood ³⁄₁₆ in. thick is suitable, and stock up to ¹⁄₂ in. in thickness may be used. Whitewood, basswood, poplar and other soft, smooth-grained woods are suitable.
When the design has been outlined satisfactorily, place the piece of wood on the saw table with the design on the upper side. Holding the wood down firmly, as shown in Fig. 5, and sawing in the notch of the saw table, cut into the edge slowly. Apply light pressure on the downstroke only, as the upstroke is not intended to cut, and turn the piece to keep the saw on the line and in the notch. It is important that the saw be held vertically so that the edge of the cut-out portion will be square. With proper care and a little practice, the edges may be cut so smoothly that only a light sandpapering will be required to produce a smooth edge. When the figure has been cut out, smooth the edges by trimming them carefully with a sharp knife, if necessary, and sandpaper them lightly to remove sharp corners. A fine sandpaper, about No. ¹⁄₂, is suitable for this purpose. The figure is then ready for painting. The white is put on first and the other colors applied over it, when dry.
Oil paints may be used, and a varnish or shellac applied over them to give a high grade of work, but this process requires much care, considerable skill, and long drying between coats to prevent “runs” in the colors.
Water-color paint, which can be purchased in powder form at paint stores, mixed with water to the consistency of cream is a satisfactory coloring material, and is easy to apply. Five cents’ worth of each of the colors used--yellow, red, blue, black, and white--will be sufficient for several toys. Mix each color in a separate saucer, and use a small water-color brush to apply the paint. In painting the horse and rider, the horse is first painted entirely white, and then the black spots are applied after the color is dry. The rider’s coat is painted red; the trousers blue; the hat and leggings buff, as indicated in Fig. 1. Mix a brushful of yellow with a brushful of red, and add about three brushfuls of white. A half brushful of black may be added to dull the color, if desired. The flesh tone for the rider’s face is made by mixing a little red with white. When the colors are dry, all edges are outlined with a heavy line of black, not less than ¹⁄₈ in. in width. This outline may be evenly applied with the point of the brush.
The method of making the parrot is similar to that described for the horse and rider, and the color scheme is suggested in Fig. 2.
It will be noticed that no attempt is made to secure a lifelike, or realistic, effect in painting these toy shapes. All colors are flat, that is, without light and shade. The toys are really decorative designs, and the maker is at liberty to use any colors desired, whether natural or not.
The horse and rider is balanced on the hind foot, as shown in Fig. 6, by using a lead weight, attached to a ¹⁄₁₆-in. wire, as a counterweight. The wire should be set into the body of the horse, behind the foreleg, to a depth of ³⁄₄ in. The weight of the metal and the curve of the wire should be adjusted to obtain the proper balance. The parrot is balanced in the same way, except that the weight is fixed to the end of the tail, which is curved like the wire.
These and other homemade toys or gifts may be sent or contained appropriately in boxes decorated to match them, as shown in Fig. 7. They may be made complete, or commercial boxes of suitable sizes may be covered and decorated. If good materials are used, such a box makes a pretty and useful gift in itself. The complete process of making a typical box is described for those who prefer to make one of special size. The dimensions given are thus only suggestive, and may be adapted to suit particular needs.
The materials necessary are: cardboard, cover paper, lining paper, bond paper, paste, and water colors. The latter should be of the opaque variety since white or other light shades may then be used on darker-colored paper. A sharp knife, a scissors, a metal-edge ruler, and bookbinder’s paste are also needed. Suitable substitutes for the various kinds of paper may usually be obtained in the home, if they are not readily available at local stationery stores or printing establishments.
The box is made as follows: Determine upon the proper size and select materials to carry out the design. An appropriate combination of colors and materials is suggested in Fig. 8. Cut out a square of the cardboard, having sides 12¹⁄₂ in. long, as shown in Fig. 9, at G, then mark it as indicated and cut on the full line to remove the square corners. Crease it on the dotted lines and fold to form a box. To hold the cardboard in box shape, strips of bond paper--ordinary writing paper--are cut, 3³⁄₄ in. long and 1 in. wide, then creased along their centers and pasted to the corners. The paste should be applied to the paper strip first, then on the corners of the box. Apply the piece of paper over the corner of the box on the outside, pressing it to make a snug fit. Repeat this operation on the other corners.
Lay off the dimensions given at H on the selected color of cover paper, which in this instance is plum, and score the lines indicated. Spread paste smoothly over the surface of the plum paper, between the lines drawn ³⁄₈ in. from the long edges, and then spread a thin layer of paste over the outer surface of one of the sides of the box. Apply the paper to the pasted surface and press it down, rubbing gently out from the center to remove air bubbles. Fold the ³⁄₈-in. laps at the top and bottom over the upper edge of the box and around the lower corner. Repeat this process, covering the four sides. To form a smooth fold at the corners, it is best to miter the paper as shown at J and K, before pasting it down. Then paste a square of the same paper 4⁷⁄₈ in. wide on the bottom of the box, taking care to match the edges evenly all around.
Line the box with a strip of lining paper, 20 in. long and 4 in. wide. Try the lining by folding it into the box so that its upper edge is about ¹⁄₈ in. from the edge of the box, and crease it carefully into the corners. Remove it, apply paste, and press it well into the corners when pasting it down. Paste a square of the same paper, 4⁷⁄₈ in wide, in the bottom of the box.
The cover is made by the same process as the main portion of the box. The dimensions of the cardboard are shown at L, and the covering at M. It should be observed that the cover is slightly wider than the box, so that it will fit easily.
When the box is thoroughly dry, it is ready to receive the decorations on the top and sides. The design may be adapted from a leaf, flower, or similar form, as well as from geometric or animal forms. The horse and rider, the parrot, and the animals shown in the headpiece of this article are all suggestive of animal forms that are available.
The design shown on the box in Fig. 7 was adapted from a flower form, two of the units being joined for the decoration on the top. To obtain a pattern for the design, fold a piece of paper, 2 by 4 in., as shown at N, and outline one-half of a leaf, flower or similar motif. Cut the folded paper as at O, and a pattern similar to that shown at P results. Trace around this to place the figure on the box. Outline the figure with black, about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, as at Q. The oval figures, suggestive of small pods on a flower, are also outlined in black, and joined to the main portion of the design by a black line. Thinner black lines are drawn vertically across the form, and small circles placed along them at intervals. The color scheme is shown in Fig. 8. The light background is yellow, the small circles are emerald-green, and the ovals red-orange. The rim of the cover is decorated with a border of white ovals, outlined in black. The corners are banded in black and white as shown in Fig. 7.
Care and Storage of Camp Equipment
A slovenly sportsman misses much of the joy of the man who takes pride in giving his outfit the proper care, not only during its period of use, but also during the winter, when occasional overhauling serves to keep one in touch with sports of other seasons. And a very real joy it is, each article recalling an experience as one examines it minutely for a possible rust spot, scratch, or injury.
Tents usually come in for much abuse, which shortens their life considerably. Cotton duck molds quickly, and rots if left rolled up damp. Care should be taken, therefore, to insure its perfect dryness before storing. Silk and silk-composition tents, being thoroughly waterproof, are almost as dry after a rain or dew as before, so may be packed for moving at any time. But all tents and tarpaulins should be washed and dried carefully after the season’s use.
Blankets absorb much moisture, and should be shaken and spread out over bushes to dry in the sun, at least once a week. In the cold nights of late summer, the increased warmth of blankets after drying is considerable.
Pack straps and ropes should not be left exposed to the weather. They speedily become hard or brittle; squirrels like the salt they can obtain by chewing the leather, and if left on the ground in a rabbit country, the straps are soon cut into bits. Hang the leather goods in the peak of the tent, keep them away from fire, and oil them occasionally.
A canoe should not be left in the water overnight, or at any time when it is not in use. Simply because use makes it wet, a canoe should not be left so any more than a gun should be left dirty, or an ax dull. If on a cruise with a heavy load, pile the stuff on shore at the night camp, and turn the canoe over it. If a canoe is permitted to remain in the water unnecessarily, or its inside exposed to rain, it soon becomes water-soaked and heavy for portage, besides drying out when exposed to the sun, and developing leaks.
Small punctures in the bottom of a canoe may be mended with spruce, tamarack, or pine gum, melted into place with a glowing firebrand, held close, while blowing at the spot to be repaired. Torn rags of canvas-covered bottoms may be glued with the softer gum of new “blazes,” gathered with a knife or flat stick.
While traveling on shallow streams the bottom of a board canoe develops a “fur” of rubbed-up shreds. Every night these should be cut short with a sharp-pointed knife, to prevent a shred from pulling out and developing into a large splinter. The paddles, and the setting pole, unless shod with iron, become burred at the ends and require trimming down to solid wood.
The track line, if in use, is wet most of the time, and unless dried frequently, becomes rotten. Every tracker knows the grave danger with a rotten line in a rapids.
During the winter the canoe should be scraped and sandpapered, bulges nailed down, permanent repairs made to the covering, and the canoe painted on the exterior and varnished on the interior.
The average fisherman is an enthusiast who needs no urging in the matter of caring for his outfit, and the user of firearms should profit by this example. Even if not a shot has been fired from a gun all day, moisture from the hands, or from the dampness in the woods, or marshes, may cause rust spots, or corrode the bore. Rub an oily rag through the bore and over the outside of the gun every evening, before laying it aside.
Cleaning rods are safer and more thorough in cleaning the bore than the common mouse string, which may break when drawing a heavy piece of cloth through, causing much difficulty. A wooden rod, preferably of hickory, is best, although the metal rod is stronger for use in small bores, but care must be taken not to wear the muzzle unduly. The hunting weapons should be carefully overhauled before storing them, and given a coat of oil to protect the metal parts from rust.--A. M. Parker, Edmonton, Can.
Useful Periscope Which a Boy Can Make
Mention of periscopes is quite common in the reports from European battle fields; such a device in a simple form can be made easily by boys who have fair skill with tools. The illustration shows a periscope which may be used for play, and has other practical uses as well. In a store or other place where a person on duty cannot watch all parts of the establishment, such a device is convenient in that it will reflect persons entering the door. As a toy or for experimental purposes the periscope shown has many possibilities, and will appeal to youngsters.
It consists of a square box, 18 in. long, open at the ends. It is 3¹⁄₂ in. wide and made of wood, ³⁄₈ in. thick. A mirror is fitted at an angle of 45° near one end of the box or tube, as shown in the sketch. The front of the mirror is opposite a three-cornered opening in the box which extends across one side. The opposite end of the tube is also fitted with a mirror in the same manner, except that the front of the mirror faces to the opposite side of the box at which there is also an opening. In using this device, the user sights from the point indicated by the eye. The image is reflected in the mirror at the top and thrown onto the lower mirror, where it may be seen without exposing the head above the level of the lower opening. It is this application of reflection by mirrors that makes it possible for soldiers to see distant objects without exposing themselves to fire, by the use of the periscope.
Trap for Coyotes
Two coyotes, resisting capture in a hole under a lava ledge, were hauled forth quickly when the device shown in the sketch was used, after other means had proved ineffective.
I made a snare of baling wire and attached it to a pole, 6 ft. long, running the wire down from the loop to the end of the handle. The loop was made about twice the size of the coyote’s head, and, by drawing on the wire at the handle, the animals were placed under control and held at a safe distance.--Contributed by Milton Barth, Geyserville, Cal.
Utilizing an Empty Paste Pot
The type of paste pot that contains a central well to hold the paste brush is not always cast aside when empty. A pincushion built to fit the outer ring, or paste-holding section, is added and the brush holder is used to hold pens and pencils.
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¶A magnet may be used to advantage in picking up tacks or small nails which have been scattered on a floor.
A Colonial Mirror Frame
Black walnut, or mahogany, is the most effective wood to use in making this simple but artistic frame. It requires a very small amount of stock and what is used should be of a good quality and carefully worked to the given dimensions with keen tools. The stock required for the frame is as follows:
Black walnut, or mahogany:
2 pieces, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick.
1 piece, 22 in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick.
1 piece 9¹⁄₄ in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick.
White holly:
1 piece, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick.
Picture board:
1 piece, 25 in. long, 9 in. wide, and ¹⁄₈ in. thick.
The dimensions for the walnut or mahogany pieces are rough sizes, oversize to allow for the planing to the dimensions given in the sketch. The white holly may be procured smoothly planed on both sides and of the exact thickness required. The picture backing may be purchased in almost any store that sells frames. It is usually rough pine and inexpensive.
The first operation is to plane the frame pieces on one side and edge, using great care to insure both being perfectly straight and the edge square with the face. Gauge for, and plane to the thickness required, although this need not be exactly ⁵⁄₈ in. as called for, but if the stock will stand ¹¹⁄₁₆ in. or ³⁄₄ in. do not take the time to cut it down to ⁵⁄₈ in. The little cross rail must be exactly ¹⁄₈ in. thick, as it is to be let ¹⁄₈ in. into the rabbet cut for the glass, which makes it come ¹⁄₈ in. back from the face of the frame when it is in place. Plane all of these pieces to the width, 1¹⁄₈ inch.
For cutting the rabbet, a plow, or a ³⁄₄-in. grooving, plane is the best tool to use, but if neither is available a rabbet plane can be used. Be sure to plane the rabbet square and to the lines gauged for the depth and width.
To groove the pieces for the holly strips a special tool is required. This may be made of a piece of soft sheet steel or iron, which must be of a thickness to correspond to that of the holly. A piece 2¹⁄₂ in. long, and of almost any width, will answer the purpose. File one edge of the metal straight, and cut saw teeth in it by filing straight across with a small saw file. Remove the burr raised by the filing by rubbing each side on an oilstone. Drill two holes in it for fastening with screws to a piece of hard wood. The wood serves as a fence, and if properly fastened to the metal, the teeth should cut a groove ¹⁄₁₆ in. deep and ³⁄₁₆ in. from the edge. The holly strip should fit the groove tightly so that it can be driven home with light taps of a hammer. It is well to try the tool on a bit of waste wood first to see if it cuts the groove properly.
The holly is cut into strips, ¹⁄₈ in. wide with a slitting gauge. An ordinary marking gauge, with the spur filed flat on each side to make a sharp, deep line, will do very well for this work. The gauging is done from both sides of the piece to make the spur cut halfway through from each side. Before the slitting is attempted, one edge of the piece is first straightened. This is readily accomplished with a fore plane, laid on its side and used as a shoot plane. The strip to be planed is laid flat on a piece of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock with one edge projecting slightly. This raises it above the bench and allows the fore plane to be worked against the projecting edge.
The strips should be applied to the groove to test the fit, and if found to be tight, they must be tapered slightly by filing or scraping the sides. If the fit is good, hot glue may be run into the grooves with a sharp stick, and the strips driven into place. They will project above the surface slightly, but no attempt should be made to plane them off flush until the glue has become thoroughly hardened; then use a sharp plane, and finish with a scraper and No. 00 sandpaper.
The miters are cut in a miter box, or planed to the exact 45° angle on a miter shoot board. Before gluing the corners, the recesses are cut for the cross rail, but it must not be put in place until the corners of the frame have been fastened and the glue given time to dry.
The frame may be given either a dull or bright finish. The dull finish gives a rich appearance and is very easy to apply. Give the completed frame one coat of white shellac, and when it is dry, rub the surface with very fine sandpaper until it has a smooth finish. Finish with any of the prepared waxes, being careful to follow the directions furnished.
Before putting the board back of the mirror, be sure to place two or three sheets of clean paper on the silvered surface. The picture board is fastened with glazier’s points, or with small bung-head wire nails. The back is finished by gluing a sheet of heavy wrapping paper to the edges of the frame. If the wrapping paper is moistened with a damp cloth before it is applied, it will dry out smooth and tightly drawn over the back.
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¶An emergency penholder may be made by fixing the pen on the end of a pencil with a clip, or small rubber band.
A Turntable Stand for Potted Flowers
Potted flowers, if kept in the house, tend to grow toward the light. From time to time the pot should be turned. To do this more readily, the turntable stand shown in the sketch was designed. It is made up of a low, four-legged taboret upon which a 12-in. disk of 1-in. wood is fixed with a screw. A thin wooden washer, sandpapered and shellacked, insures easy turning. Rectangular boxes or circular jars look equally well upon the stand, the beauty of which depends much upon its workmanship and finish.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.
Index for Popular Mechanics Magazine on Bookshelf
As it would be impossible to keep in one’s mind all the good ideas given in Popular Mechanics Magazine, I preserve my back numbers for reference, and, to reduce the amount of index and page searching, I have adopted a convenient plan of indexing any special article to which I expect to refer. I write, on one end of a strip of paper, the page and date of issue of the article. I place these slips at the proper pages in the magazine, so as to project at the top, as shown, making reference easy. If a slip drops out, it is quickly replaced. When articles are no longer needed for reference, the slips are removed. By keeping the magazines on an open shelf they can be reached handily, for reference as well as for removing them from the shelf.--J. E. McCormack, Haliburton, Ont., Can.
Trimming Board with Foot Control and Counterweight
A trimming board with the knife operated by a pedal, leaving both hands free to handle the work, is a device appreciated by photographers, commercial artists, and others who have more or less heavy paper or cardboard to trim. An ordinary trimming board is mounted on a packing box of suitable dimensions, as shown. A pedal is hinged to the bottom of the box, and a heavy cord, or wire, runs to the handle of the knife, so that pressure on the pedal operates the knife. The latter is returned by a weighted rope, passing over a pulley attached to a standard at the rear corner.--H. F. Blanchard, New York, N. Y.
Folding Card Table Handy for Invalid in Bed
When it is necessary to serve a meal to a patient in bed, and no invalid table is at hand, use an ordinary folding card or serving table. Unfold one end over the bed, and a splendid substitute table is provided, useful for reading, games, and other purposes. If the table rests too low on the bed, adjust it with cushions. This is far more convenient than using a tray.--John P. Rupp, Norwalk, Ohio.
Morris Chair with Newspaper Rack, and Smoker’s Trays
BY J. E. Bronson
A comfortable and novel after-dinner chair for the man in the household can be made by fitting a morris chair, or other armchair, with devices which appeal especially to a man. The chair shown is that of the ordinary mission morris type. It is of simple outline and can be made by the home mechanic of fair skill in furniture making. The details of its construction, while not essential to a description of the special fittings, are shown in the several working drawings. The joints used for the framework are of the common mortise-and-tenon variety. The back is a plain frame, fitted with vertical slats, and hinged to a shoulder in the back legs, as shown in the side view. For a substantial piece of furniture, oak or other hard wood should be used; as a piece of porch or summer-cottage furniture, the chair may be made of softer woods. The cushion can be made of various leathers, or upholstery fabrics. It is built over a wooden frame and is removable. The seat bottom may be paneled, and a loose cushion fitted into it, and a similar one bound with thongs to the back of the chair.
The drawer is slightly different from the standard construction in that the front is arranged as a blind rail. It fits snugly between the front legs and is suspended from strips fitted between the pairs of legs at the sides.
No handle is provided, as the drawer can be opened easily by grasping it underneath the front board. Pipes, smoker’s supplies, or a variety of other articles may be stored handily in it.
The newspaper rack, as detailed, is made up of strips forming a basket, which supported by a rod pivoted in wooden hangers, one on each of the side legs, adjoining the rack. When papers are not being taken out or placed in it, the rack is tilted back against the side of the chair arm. The ash and tobacco trays, which may be made large enough for cigars, are suspended under the right chair arm by means of rings made of strips of brass. These holders are pivoted on bolts, and the trays can be removed easily for cleaning. They are ordinarily swung out of the way, under the arm. The special features of the chair may also be adapted to the needs of nonsmokers.
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¶The nuisance of soiled fingers and pen grip in lettering, when using a deep ink bottle, can be avoided by filling a bottle up to the neck with cement, and using only the neck as an inkwell.
Homemade Talking-Machine Cabinet
An old six-foot folding screen, three-ply ¹⁄₄-in. panels from a packing box, and parts from secondhand talking machines, were used to make the cabinet shown in the photograph reproduced. The screen was cut down to form a framework of the desired height for the sides and back. Other parts of the screen were used for the frames of the doors on the front, and for the top. The panels were made from a good quality of three-ply stock, with a hardwood face, which was scraped, sandpapered, and brought to a very smooth finish. The material happened to have a pretty grain, and this added to the effect when it was stained and varnished. Pieces of this stock were used for the sounding horn and for other interior fittings, such as the shelves for records and the drawer below the horn. Space is provided for a large supply of records.
A secondhand two-spring motor, a turntable, and a sound arm from a disk machine were fitted into the cabinet, and gave excellent service. Care in staining the woodwork, shellacking, and varnishing it with several coats, gave the cabinet almost a commercial finish, and at a cost of $16.35 for all materials.
Eggshells as Flowerpots
A novel method of caring for small plants until they are ready to be set out in the garden is shown in the photograph reproduced. Holes were bored in the bottom of the till of an old trunk and eggshells fitted into them. Seeds were planted in the shells and the names of the varieties were marked on them. The arrangement is compact, and when the plants are ready for planting, the shells may be broken, and the plants set without disturbing the roots--Charles Darlington, Des Moines, Ia.
A Recording Annunciator Target
In rifle practice it is often desirable to provide a target which will indicate to the marksman when the bull’s-eye is struck. The device shown in the sketch, arranged behind an ordinary card target, has given satisfactory results on a private range, and can easily be adapted for other uses.
Referring to Fig. 1, A indicates a wooden base, 4 by 8 by ¹⁄₂ in., on which is mounted a strap hinge, B, 6¹⁄₂ in. long, by means of a block, 1³⁄₈ in. high. An opening, C, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, is provided in the base, and a plate, D 1³⁄₄ in. square, is riveted to the strap hinge opposite to the opening. An electromagnet, E, obtained from an electric bell, is mounted upon the base under the small end of the hinge. A standard, F, provided with a cross arm, G, is secured upon the base between the opening and the magnet. A thumbscrew with a locknut extends through the cross arm, engaging the rear side of the strap hinge, and permits an adjustment of distance between the core of the magnet and the surface of the hinge. A bell or buzzer, H, is connected as indicated, through the battery circuit. The electromagnet is connected through the battery and push button J.
The strap hinge normally rests against the electromagnet. The force of any projectile passing through the opening against the plate closes the bell circuit and indicates to the marksman that the bull’s-eye has been hit. By the closing of the magnet circuit, the strap hinge is drawn again into normal position and the bell circuit is broken. Figure 2 shows a front view of the circuit-closing device. The device may be mounted in any suitable box, as suggested in Fig. 3. The front of the box is covered with sheet metal, ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick, and the standard target card is mounted thereon.--John B. Brady, Washington, D. C.
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¶A convenient method of holding paper in a roll is to fasten a wire clip at each end near the edge of the piece.
Scraper for Tennis Court
In order to level and scrape a tennis court, which was in bad condition, the two-man scraper shown in the sketch was made. It is built of rough lumber, and a metal shoe is fixed to the lower edge of the scraping blade at the rear. The bearing at the front is on a flat-bottom sled of wood, and the depth of the cut is regulated by pressure on the handle. The scraping blade is set at an angle, as shown in the smaller sketch. By lifting the handle slightly, the operator is able to deposit dirt in holes so that when the court is rolled they are filled evenly. Where a large number of courts are to be smoothed, the device may be adapted and made large enough to be drawn by a horse.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.
Barrel Staves as Springs for Play Auto
I made springs for a small foot-power automobile by using barrel staves joined together in the shape of pointed oval wagon springs. Two strong staves were nailed together at each end and braced with a block where they were nailed. Two of these springs were placed over the rear axle and one of them was set over the front axle extending in the direction of its length. The wooden springs made the automobile ride comfortably.--Charles Delbridge, St. Louis, Mo.
Hall Seat with Storage Compartment
The illustration represents a simple design for an easily made and substantial hall seat, provided with a compartment for odds and ends. It is advisable to make it of wood to match its surroundings. The following material is necessary:
2 ends, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 28 in
2 rails, ⁷⁄₈ by 6 by 38 in.
1 seat board, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 36¹⁄₄ in.
1 bottom board, ⁷⁄₈ by 12¹⁄₄ by 36¹⁄₄ in.
2 seat cleats, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 12¹⁄₄ in.
2 bottom cleats, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 11¹⁄₂ in.
The two ends, A, are marked to the same outline and cut with a coping or scroll saw. If a fine-toothed saw is used, the edges of the boards can be easily smoothed with sandpaper, otherwise a file is necessary to remove the coarse saw traces. The rails B are cut to size and squared up at the ends, after which they can be placed at the proper places on the ends A, which may then be marked for the notches to receive the rails. In fastening the rails to the end pieces, 2-in. round-head screws can be used. The seat C is attached to the back rail by 2-in. butt hinges. To prevent the seat from sagging in the middle, it is supported on each side by cleats screwed to the end pieces A. If the seat is liable to warp it can be held straight by two cleats screwed underneath. The bottom board D may be held in place by means of screws through the rails, or by resting on cleats screwed to the end pieces. The seat, when assembled and thoroughly sandpapered, can be finished to suit.
Putting In Screw Hooks Neatly
To prevent a wire hook, when the last few turns are given, from marring or scratching the surface, special care must be taken. A splendid way to do the work neatly is to first lay a piece of stiff paper on the surface where the hook is to be attached and hold it in place while starting the screw hook. Turn the hook in the usual way through the paper. When the hook is in place the paper can be removed by tearing it off.--Contributed by Emile Parent.
A Window Ventilator
The illustration shows a ventilator I constructed to allow air to pass through between the upper and lower window sash. It consists of a board 8 or 10 in. wide, and as long as the window sash is wide. A short distance from one end it is marked and cut on a slant. The small piece removed is hinged to the main part so that it can be raised in taking the board from the window. When the sash rests on the board it cannot be removed from the window.--Contributed by David Hannigan, Orange, Connecticut.
The floor space in our high-school shop is somewhat limited, leaving no room on the floor for the gluing press, and during a large part of the year the temperature on the floor is too low for gluing. We met these conditions with the gluing press illustrated.
Three pairs, or sets, of steps, A, were made of pine, 2 in. thick, and fastened in a series by strips B, so that they all would move forward or backward between the guides C, which are nailed to the floor above the shop. On one of the steps--the corresponding one in each pair--rests a piece of wood, D, 4 in. wide and 2 in. thick, through which, near its ends, are bored holes to receive lengths of 1-in. gas pipe, E. Over these holes and screwed to the wood piece are 1-in. floor flanges, F. The pipes E are threaded at one end so that they will screw through the floor flanges about 3 in. On the other ends of the gas pipes are fitted pieces of material, 4 in. wide and 2 in. thick, G, resting on washers, which in turn rest on the locknuts H. The locknuts H prevent the tees J from unscrewing in operating the press. A rod is used through the tees as a handle for screwing the pipes E on or out of the floor flanges F. On top of the pieces G rests the floor K, on which are placed the pieces to be glued. On the under side of the ceiling joists, and directly over the floor K, is spiked the 2-in. piece L, between which piece and the floor K the material is pressed. For the sake of stiffness and lightness the floor K is built up of 1-in. material, as shown in the detail. This floor may be raised or lowered by the windlass M. The windlass is simply a ³⁄₄-in. gas pipe turning in bearings fastened to the under side of the ceiling joists.
Supposing the press to be standing as shown in the drawings, it is operated as follows: The pipes E are unscrewed so that their upper ends are flush with the top surface of the floor flanges F. The ropes N are wound up a trifle on the windlass M, thus raising the pieces D, the pipes E, and the floor K. Lifting D clear of the steps releases the latter so that the entire series may be moved to the right by pulling the rope O. In unwinding the ropes from the windlass, D is let down on the lowest step, which has just been drawn directly under it. This operation lowers the floor K to its lowest limit and the pieces to be glued are placed, one on the other, on this floor. If the total thickness of the material to be glued is sufficient to nearly fill the space between the floor and the piece L, a rod is thrust through J, and the pipes are screwed up, thus pressing the material between the floor K and the piece L. If, however, the material does not fill the space well, then the ropes N are wound up on the windlass M, thus raising the floor and its contents as far as possible, and by pulling the rope P the steps are drawn as far to the left as possible and D rests on a higher step, thus lessening the space to be taken up by the screws. The pipes are then screwed up tightly as in the first operation. Our press is operated from a mezzanine floor where all the gluing is done.
A Luminous-Minnow Fish Bait
Make a plug of light wood, preferably cedar or white pine, 1³⁄₄ in. long and ³⁄₄ in. in diameter at the large end, tapering to ¹⁄₄ in. at the small end. Finish it to the shape of a minnow and bore a ⁵⁄₁₆-in. hole, 1 in. deep, in the large end. Make a lead plug, with a hole through the center, to drive tightly into the hole in the head of the minnow, and finish the front end smooth and even with the wood. Run a wire through the minnow and form an eye at the tail for hooks, and another at the head for the swivel. A three-cornered piece of tin inserted ¹⁄₂ in. back of the head on each side and bent so that the water will cause it to turn gives motion to the lure.
Two coats of luminous paint will be sufficient for the illumination. Expose the minnow to the light for several hours, and it will give a luminous glow in the dark that makes it easily seen by the fish as it is drawn through the water. As most game fish are night feeders, it makes a very effective lure.--Contributed by Charles Carrol, Saint Cloud, Fla.
To Prevent Putty Sticking to the Hands
When purchasing putty buy a little whiting. This is one of the ingredients of the putty. Mix enough of it with the putty to absorb the excess oil. This will prevent it from sticking to the hands. It also gives the putty more body and makes it much easier to handle.
Signal for Lighted Lights in Basement
To avoid the loss of electric current by forgetting to turn out the light in the basement, I placed a 3-cp. lamp in the circuit near the switch at the head of the stairs. The small light is a signal that the light is still turned on in the basement.--Contributed by A. MacCunn, Toronto, Can.
Dies for Cutting Cardboard
An inexpensive, yet very efficient, die for cutting quantities of tin foil, sheet lead, paper, and cardboard can be made from a steel rule such as used by printers. Procure a rule, two points or about ¹⁄₃₂ in. thick, which comes in 2-ft. lengths. The rule can be readily bent without annealing. Bend it to the desired shape and solder, or weld, the ends together. To give it rigidity, fill in the space with melted lead to a depth of half the height of the die.
Place the material to be cut against the die and put both into a vise, or letter press. Apply pressure steadily until the die has cut through the last thickness of the material. As many as 5 pieces can be placed and cut at one time. When cutting designs for static machines, etc., from tin foil, this appliance does away with the tedious work of cutting one at a time, and then, too, they will all be uniform. In making the connection at the ends of the rule, be sure that they meet evenly and do not lap to make the joint.--Contributed by M. H. Granholt, Long Beach, Cal.
How to Make a Vacuum Pail
As a substitute for a vacuum bottle a very efficient pail can be made in the following manner: Procure a 1-gal. sirup pail for the outside and a ¹⁄₂-gal. size for the inside. Make a collar of tin, as shown, with projections; bend these down, inside and outside, then solder the collar to the inside of the larger pail, and the smaller pail to the inside of the collar. Be sure to make a perfectly air-tight joint in the soldering. This gives a double wall with an air-tight space all around the inner pail, or opening. To make vacuum covers for the pails, take two covers of each size and solder them together, as shown.
To produce a vacuum, make a small hole in the metal forming the collar, also one in each cover. Put a few drops of water in each vacuum compartment and set the parts on a heated surface. When the steam escapes, solder the holes. This will produce a partial vacuum in the space around the inner pail and in the covers. This will make a very efficient vacuum pail.--Contributed by John H. Spicer, Magnolia, Ark.
Ironing Board for Use on a Table
A handy ironing board for use on kitchen or dining-table top is made with a cleat to keep it from moving across the table top. The cleat, which is 1¹⁄₂ or 2 in. wide, is fastened to the board with screws. If desired, the board can be made as immovable as the table top by putting another cleat at one end, so that the two cleats will hold against one side and one edge of the table top.--Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford, Minn.
Combination Bookcase and Writing Desk
In planning a writing desk, much convenience can be added by providing it with a bookcase, in which may be stored those reference works most frequently used. The design illustrated furnishes ample room as a drawing desk, besides providing sufficient space in an inclosed cabinet for books or letter-filing cases.
The material required, figuring exact sizes, is as follows:
2 sides, ⁷⁄₈ by 16¹⁄₂ by 67 in.
1 bottom shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 12 by 32¹⁄₄ in.
1 top shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 9¹⁄₄ by 32¹⁄₄ in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 40 by 31 in., made of pieces of convenient widths.
1 desk board, ⁷⁄₈ by 16¹⁄₈ by 30 in.
1 lower bookcase shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 9¹⁄₈ by 30 in.
1 middle bookcase shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 8³⁄₈ by 30 in.
1 desk cover, ⁷⁄₈ by 15¹⁄₂ by 30 in.
1 upper back rail, ⁷⁄₈ by 5 by 30 in.
Bookcase Doors
4 stiles, ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 19 in.
4 rails, ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
2 mullions, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 17¹⁄₂ in.
2 mullions, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 13¹⁄₂ in.
1 pigeon-hole stock, ³⁄₈ by 7 by 72 in.
For Main Drawer
1 front, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 30 in.
2 sides, ³⁄₈ by 4 by 15¹⁄₂ in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ by 29¹⁄₂ in.
1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 15¹⁄₄ by 29¹⁄₂ in.
2 drawer slides, ⁷⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ by 15 in.
1 lower rail, ⁷⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ by 30 in.
1 molding strip, ¹⁄₄ by ³⁄₈ by 120 in.
As the main sides are of considerable width, it would be best to make them of two pieces glued together and, in order to obtain a strong and neat joint, to have this done by an experienced joiner, or in the mill. The back edges should be carefully planed, and rabbeted ³⁄₈ in. deep by ¹⁄₂ in. wide for the ³⁄₈-in. thick back. The bottom or foot piece of the sides should be squared up with the back edges, or the completed desk is liable to be winding, or warped. The bottom and top shelves or main cross braces should be marked and cut out, and, to be in harmony with the shape of the sides, the lower-shelf tenons are made wider than those on the upper shelf. The top shelf should be rabbeted ¹⁄₂ in. deep by ³⁄₈ in. wide, to fit the back boards which are nailed to it. The required mortises in the sidepieces are marked from the corresponding tenons of the shelves, and can then be cut out with a chisel. When finished, the four parts constituting the frame should be assembled, and may be held together with blind screws, or dowel pins, passed through the tenons.
The desk board and two library shelves should then be fitted, and fastened in place with blind screws through the sides, or with cleats from the inside. For a neat, finished appearance, the back boards should be carefully joined, exposing no cracks, and fastened with nails driven into the various shelves. The upper rail, resting on the bookcase, and the lower rail, forming part of the drawer support, can then be fitted and secured to the sides with blind screws, either from the outside or diagonally through the rails from the inside. Drawer slides are fitted in place flush with the top edge of the lower rail, and fastened to the sides with screws.
In making the drawer, the usual construction should be followed. The front piece should be rabbeted near its lower edge to fit the drawer bottom, and notched ¹⁄₂ in. at each end to fit the sides. The bottom and end pieces fit into grooves cut in the sides. Suitable drawer pulls or knobs should be provided.
For the doors of the bookcase, the best construction would be to tenon the rails into the stiles about ¹⁄₂ in. The glass panel fits in a notch, ¹⁄₂ in. deep and ¹⁄₄ in. wide, cut around the inside ledge of the door, and is held in position with molding strips. In order to give the door an appearance of being divided into four parts, mullions, or cross strips, are fitted on the outer side of the glass flush with the rails and stiles, and fastened to them with brads. The doors are attached with butt hinges.
In making the desk door, a specially selected board should be used, as the finished appearance of the desk will greatly depend on this. The ends and sides should be perfectly squared, and the lower or hinge end cut beveled corresponding to the edge of the desk board. Butt hinges are used to secure it in position, and hinged brackets or chains provided to support it when open. When closed, it rests against a strip fastened to the lower side of the bottom bookcase shelf.
In arranging the pigeonholes it is best to have the inside boards rest on the desk board, so that, when desired, the entire arrangement of the drawers and shelves may be withdrawn easily. When thoroughly sandpapered and finished to taste, a serviceable, handy and attractive piece of furniture is obtained, suitable for either office or home.--Contributed by James Gaffney, Chicago.
Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller Curtains
It frequently occurs, in adjusting spring-roller curtains, that the cord slips through the hand and the curtain not only winds up to the top but continues until the spring has spent its force, and the curtain and cord are rolled up out of reach. It is then necessary to use a chair, or stepladder, to readjust it. All this trouble and annoyance can be avoided if a small hollow rubber ball is obtained, and holes punched through so it may be threaded on the curtain string, and tied close to the stick. Should the curtain slip away with this attachment, the ball will jam up against the window frame, preventing further winding up.--Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago, Ill.
Spoon Attachment to Prevent Child from Using Left Hand
To discourage a child from using a spoon in the left hand, a projection was made of a piece of brass, filed into the shape shown in the illustration. After the projection was attached, the entire spoon was plated. This makes it impossible to use the spoon in the left hand, as the projection will prevent the bowl from entering the mouth.--Contributed by W. H. Hutchinson, Hamilton, Ont.
A High Chair
Where a high chair is not at hand or available, an ordinary solid-bottom kitchen chair can be used instead, if rigged up as shown in the illustration. The chair is reversed, and the back is used as one support, while two pieces of wood fastened to the sides form the other. A seat board is fastened to the upper side rounds, and a table board to the two lower side rounds. A small piece is nailed to the two back posts for a back.--Contributed by J. S. Fritzen, Minneapolis, Minn.
Blower for a Fireplace
Having considerable trouble with a smoky fireplace when trying to start a coal fire in the basket grate, I decided to make a blower of sheet iron. A blower covers the upper part of the fireplace and forces the draft through the basket grate until the fire gets a good start, then it can be removed. Before making the blower I again had trouble one morning when the chimney would not draw, and the whole room became filled with smoke; I then grabbed a newspaper and held it up against the upper part of the fireplace like a regular blower. To my surprise the suction of the chimney held the newspaper in place without any outside aid. In a few minutes the fire was roaring, and best of all, when it became hot, the newspaper caught fire and was sucked into the flames. This in reality became an automatic blower, as it removed itself when no longer needed.--Contributed by Charles F. Kopp, Amite, La.
An Ironing-Board Wall Fastening
One of the most useful and convenient articles for a household is an ironing board, one end of which is fastened to the wall by means of hinges to allow it to be folded up against the wall when not in use. Wood brackets are preferable to the metal hinges, as there must be some little space between the wall and the board to allow for the thickness of the covering. The brace which extends from near the end of the board to the base of the wall is best hinged with canvas strips, as they will last better than any other material for this joint. The hinges should be put in place when the board is in a vertical position to allow the brace to go in position without straining.--Contributed by J. H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.
Oars Flattened to Make Rowing Easier
When rowing a small boat, we were bothered by the turning of the oars in the locks, so that the blade of the oar was not in proper position to take the water. We overcame this by planing off slightly one side of the oar, so that when this surface was against the lock, the blade was in the correct position to catch the water. It is unnecessary to grip these oars tightly, as they fall naturally into place and save the novice a great deal of trouble. In locks where this method is undesirable, the handgrips may be cut as a guide.--H. D. Burnside, Madison, Wis.
A One-Piece Bracelet Cut from a Calling Card
A trick that will amuse and interest persons both old and young can be performed with a calling card, cigarette paper, or other similar material, cut with a scissors or knife, as indicated in the diagram. The card is shown, and the performer announces that he will pass his hand through the card, making a bracelet of it. He will, of course, be challenged, and proceeds as follows: He folds the card lengthwise and cuts through two thicknesses from 1 to 2, 3 to 4, etc.; then opens the card, and cuts from 1 to 13. By stretching the paper, as shown in the sketch, the hand may be passed through the card readily. The spectators are soon trying to duplicate the trick.--R. E. Jones, Velasco, Texas.
Device for a Finger Tug-of-War Game
Considerable pleasure and pastime was afforded by the tug-of-war game which I made. Two contestants, one at each end, take hold of the rollers with their forefingers and thumbs and endeavor to move the pointer to their respective ends. The game interests persons of various ages, and they all want to try it.
The device should be made strongly to stand the wear on it. The top and bottom are boards, ¹⁄₂ by 8 by 24 in., and four blocks, 3 in. high and 2¹⁄₂ in. square, are fastened between them at the corners with screws. The rollers are set in the blocks, and held by small nails passing through them and set against the inner faces of the blocks. The pointer is made of a strip of brass, bent to the shape shown. Cords extend from the pointer inside of the box and are tied to the rollers.--James E. Noble, Kingston, Ontario, Can.
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¶In applying a white paint over a dark, or mottled, surface, tint the first coat with a little black, making it gray; then the next coat will show solid white.
Window Frame and Table for Dark Room
BY JOSEPH LIMBRUNNER
The amateur photographer often has a poor dark room, sometimes made worse by the use of an evil-smelling lamp. If he wishes to use a room that has daylight, he finds it difficult to convert the room quickly for his purposes, especially if he desires to make use of the daylight for his work. Under these conditions, the arrangement described in this article was devised, and proved so satisfactory that I pass it on to the host of amateurs who find satisfaction in making part of their equipment. The table and window frame in place are shown in Fig. 1. The table is removed by withdrawing the rod, and bending up the hinged legs. The frame and window covering are removed by releasing the four small hooks. Ruby, yellow, or ground glass may be inserted in the sliding frame, as required, nearly all of the light being shut out, or light admitted without a glass, by sliding the frame.
The general arrangement of the parts is shown in Fig. 2. The dimensions are suggestive only, being suited to a small window in a bathroom, where the equipment was installed. The table is merely a board top supported by hinged legs, which are braced by a removable round wooden rod. A frame, C, as detailed in the section at A-B, Fig. 3, is fitted closely in the window casing. It is covered with heavy cardboard, tacked on. The ways J, in which the frame for the glass slides, are fixed to the lower rail of the frame C, and to a crossbar at its middle. A 5 by 7-in. opening is cut in the cardboard to admit the light, as shown in Fig. 2. Holes D are bored in the ways to receive pins which hold the frame at various positions, as indicated by the stop holes E, Fig. 4.
The sliding frame is detailed in Fig. 4. It consists of a back frame of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, sliding in the grooves of the ways J, and a frame of 1-in. stuff, mounted on the front of it. The openings may be made to suit the size of plate to be used, 5 by 7-in. openings being indicated. The openings are provided with rabbeted edges, as indicated by the width G, and the height H, in which frames of light weight, for the 5 by 7-in. glass plates, are fitted. The frames may be made, or plain, cheap picture frames may be used. The sliding frame is raised and lowered by means of the handle F. The cardboard covering the larger frame should be painted a dull black, and the wooden parts may be shellacked in the natural color.
When developing films or plates, the frames with the red and yellow glasses should be inserted in the sliding frame, and held in place by turn buttons. The red glass will ordinarily be satisfactory for developing, but on very bright days, with the sun shining directly on the glass, a layer or two of “post-office” paper is placed over it. The yellow glass may be used when fixing, and other work requiring a subdued light, but not when developing is done. For printing, put in the yellow and the ground glasses, the latter admitting sufficient light for the purpose. To use the dark room occasionally in the evening, I set a lamp on a well-protected shelf outside of the opening in the cardboard, and proceed as in the use of daylight.
Non-Blow-Out Cigar and Pipe Lighter
“It is a poor Irishman that cannot light his pipe when the wind is blowing,” but the sketch shows a device that will make a “Paddy” out of anyone, with a great saving of matches. It is made from a small piece of brass tubing, or drawn shell, ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, and about 1¹⁄₂ in. long. The open end is placed in the bowl of the pipe or over the end of the cigar, a match inserted through the slot, and a quick stroke on the threaded portion ignites the match. The small holes provide air. The top is soldered in place.--James H. Rodgers, Montreal, Canada.
Electric Counting Glass for Thread Fabric
The intelligent housewife and shopper, as well as persons professionally interested in the structure and quality of woven fabrics of various kinds, can make good use of a counting glass for close examination of such material. In its simplest form the device consists of a cigar box with a ground-glass top and a small electric light inside. Where larger pieces of goods are to be examined a small table with wooden legs and wooden frame for the glass may be made.
The diagrams at A and B represent the threads making up the cloth as stretched on the rollers of a loom. The lengthwise threads, or warp, are shown at A, and the cross threads, or weft, at B. By magnifying the material with a glass exposing an area of ¹⁄₂ or 1 in. square, the threads may be counted or closely examined and the quality determined. This also enables one to identify goods as being the same.--F. Ball Pinkus, La Crescenta, California.
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¶An inexperienced workman broke eight curved window panes on a lake steamer by attempting to cut them on the inside, instead of on the outside of the curve, in fitting the glass.
Clock Device to Record Time of Appointments and Other Events
An ordinary clock, fitted with an electrical device to record the length of telephone conversations or appointment hours, or indicate when a door is opened, is shown in the illustration. The record is made by the hands in contact with brass rings attached to the face of the clock, the front of the rings being covered with white paper, dipped in a chemical, on which black dots are caused to appear, at each contact. By examining the dots and noting the items corresponding to them on a memorandum, the length of conversations, etc., may be observed.
Two rings of ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass, one within the other, and having side arms, are mounted on the front of the clock, as shown in the illustration. The ring on arm A should be slipped under both hands, and should have spring enough to hold it in contact with the small clock hand. The ring fixed to arm B must be in contact with the large hand, but must be some distance from the small hand and the smaller ring, so that they will not come into contact when the hands cross each other. An offset in the arm A, and a piece of mica insulation, are provided where the larger ring crosses the bar A. On the surface of each ring, between it and its respective hand, is glued a piece of white paper, cut to conform with the ring, but ¹⁄₁₆ in. larger, so as to extend over the outer edge of the brass rings. The rings of paper are saturated in a solution of potassium chloride and permitted to dry, before being placed on the brass rings.
A high-tension current, passing through the coil D, enters the arm A, passes to the small hand, to the large hand, and out at the terminal on arm B. Black dots will appear on the prepared paper at the position of the hands, when the contact is made.
The primary wires E and F may be attached to a doorbell or to a contact on the door, indicating on the prepared paper the length of time the door was held open, as well as the time at which it was opened. The arms A and B must be well insulated from one another. For greater accuracy in recording time, to within ¹⁄₂ minute, prepared paper dials, with hour and minute marks, coming into contact with the hands at small projections punched in the hands from their upper surfaces, should be used. An ordinary secondary coil from an automobile may be used, and if the clock has a wooden case, the arms may be fastened directly to it.
Practical Memorandum for Odd Jobs
Not infrequently home or shop mechanics find that trifling odd jobs are neglected repeatedly, simply because they are not of sufficient consequence to warrant getting out the tools or materials necessary for the work. A convenient method of insuring that these small jobs are not overlooked is to make a memorandum of them and place it with the tools required for the work. For instance, if a small job of soldering is to be done, a memorandum placed with the soldering outfit will not easily be overlooked, and the work may be done while the coppers are hot for use in a larger job. Likewise with small painting jobs. Sometimes only a brushful of paint is needed and one does not care to mix a small quantity of paint nor clean the brush afterward. A memorandum of the job makes this unnecessary.--John Hoeck, Alameda, California.
A Homemade Vulcanizer
Tire tubes may be vulcanized satisfactorily in the home garage, or even on the road, with the simple device shown in the sketch. It is made as follows: Obtain a piece of sheet iron, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, 3 in. wide, and 5 in. long. Drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the middle of each end. Fit a strip of similar stock, 1 in. wide and 5 in. long, to the first piece with bolts, as shown. Procure a tin cover without embossing on the top, such as is used on baking-powder cans. Cut several disks to fit in the cover, from heavy cardboard; soak them thoroughly in a saturated solution of saltpeter, and dry them. Wrap each disk in oiled paper, and keep them in a water-tight container.
To use the vulcanizer, clean the area around the hole in the tube with sandpaper, and cut a piece of rubber of the proper size to fit over it. Slip one of the prepared cardboard disks into the tin cover, and clamp the cover and tire with patch into the iron frame, as shown. Touch a lighted match to the cardboard disk, which will burn rapidly, but without flame, supplying sufficient heat to vulcanize the tube.--Thomas W. Benson, Hastings on Hudson, N. Y.
Rudder for a Toboggan
Learning to steer a toboggan by means of the foot dragged behind it is an interesting feature of the sport, but this method is dangerous at times and results in much wear on shoes and clothes. The device shown in the illustration makes this method of steering unnecessary and gives the rider accurate control over the sled. It consists of a strip of ¹⁄₄ by 1-in. iron curved to form a rudder at one end and twisted at the middle to provide a flat piece for pivoting it on the rear cleat of the sled, as shown in the working drawing below. A handle is fastened to the front end of the strip with bolts. The rudder should not be curved too deeply or it will cut through the snow and be damaged, or ruin the track.--H. B. Mclntyre, Waterville, Me.
A Window Refrigerator
A simple method of constructing a window refrigerator that will not obstruct the light is shown in the illustration. A box was made the width of the window and was fitted to slides fastened outside the window on the side of the house. The exposed sides of the box were inclosed completely and the inner side was provided with two sliding doors. A handle was fitted to the side of the box so that, by reaching out of the window, the box could be drawn in front of the opening easily. Several shelves were fitted into it and the materials stored were not easily molested. Trunk casters attached to the bottom of the box improved the action on the lower rail.--Hubert Kann, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Toy Paper Glider Carefully Designed
A paper glider is an interesting and useful toy that can be made quickly; it may be used out of doors, but occasions when weather conditions make it necessary to remain indoors are especially good for this form of pastime. The glider shown in the sketch was worked out after considerable testing. With a toss it travels 20 to 30 ft., on a level keel, with a message slipped behind a pin, as shown in the upper sketch. The inventive boy may devise many play uses for the glider in tournaments, competitions, and for “military” flights, in which the “drivers” of the devices may “annihilate armies.” Practical use of the toy was made in a series of air-current tests.
The glider is made as follows: Fold a piece of paper, 10 by 15 in., lengthwise, and mark the outline shown at the left upon it. The dimensions should be followed carefully. Measure first from the end A to the point B, and then draw the slanting line to D, at an angle of 45°. Mark the width to E, and measure the other distances from A and at the middle, to determine the curve of the edge. Mark the dotted lines extending from D, which are guides for the folding of the paper to form the glider, as shown in the lower sketch. Curl the points under the side so that the line FD comes to the position DG, and pin them to the corners H, as shown in the lower sketch. The glider is tossed by holding it between the thumb and forefinger at the middle of the fold underneath it.--S. R. Edwards, Seattle, Wash.
Cleaning a Clock with Kerosene Fumes
A simple way of cleaning a clock is as follows: Remove the pendulum and procure a ball of cotton wool, about half the size of a fist. Saturate this with kerosene, and place it in a saucer, or a tin lid, in the case under the works of the clock. Close the case and leave the cotton for several days. It will then be found that the fumes from the kerosene have brought down the dust from the works; in fact, the cotton will be covered with black specks. It only remains to oil the bearings of the works, and the clock will be quite in order.--S. Leonard Bastin, Bournemouth, England.
A Reversible Photographic Developing Tank
BY LAWRENCE F. CAMPBELL
One of the chief difficulties in developing plates in a nonreversible developing tank is that irregular development takes place, because the developer tends to settle more or less, depending on the time necessary for complete development. The construction of a reversible tank is a simple matter, and the cost is slight. The tank described is 3¹⁄₄ by 4¹⁄₄, in. in size, but the dimensions can be varied for other sizes of plates. The tank is a box having grooves in opposite ends for the plates. By placing the latter back to back, 12 can be developed at a time. Sheet rubber is fitted between the cover and the body of the tank, and the cover, upon being screwed down, makes a water-tight compartment of the box. The asphaltum paint used is not affected by the developer, and preserves the wood. Fixing and developing may both be done in the one tank, but it is preferable to use the tank for developing only.
The two sides are plain pieces, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 4¹⁄₂ in. in size. The end pieces have ¹⁄₈ by ¹⁄₈-in. grooves, ¹⁄₄ in. apart and extending the length of the piece, which is ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. long. The grooves can be made either on a power saw, or by chiseling them out by hand. The bottom piece is ¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₂ by 5¹⁄₂ in. in size, with two ³⁄₈-in. holes bored to receive the bolts. The two bolt supports are ¹⁄₂ by ³⁄₄ by 1 in., and are also bored ³⁄₈ in. to receive the bolts, and are nailed to the end pieces. The cover is ¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₂ by 5¹⁄₂ in. long, with a slot in each end for the bolts, which are ³⁄₈ by 6-in. carriage bolts.
The parts are assembled with screws, and the tank is given two coats of asphaltum paint. Care should be taken, before assembling the parts, to insure that the plates fit the grooves.
Turned Cane with Snakes Inlaid
The making of a cane is a favorite job for the home craftsman, especially the veteran who finds himself in need of such a support and has the leisure to make it. A novelty in constructions of this kind is a turned cane built up of dark and light-colored woods with snakes inlaid. That shown in the illustration was made of black walnut and birch, with a walnut knob. It is made as follows: Glue up a piece of walnut and a piece of birch, ⁷⁄₈ by 1³⁄₄ by 3 ft. long, as shown at A. Mark out the snake on the birch surface, and cut it out very carefully on the band saw, or with a fine hand turning saw. The snake portion will drop out and is then separated into a walnut and a birch strip, making two similar snakes. Bore holes for the eyes and plug them with the opposite kind of wood. Replace the snakes in opposite positions, the one of birch in the walnut side, and the walnut one in the birch side. Glue them carefully into place, removing a small portion of the wood at the ends of the sawed pieces to make a close fit.
The stock then appears as at B, and is ready for turning in the lathe. If desired, circles may be laid out on the ends of the stock, and the piece planed down to the rounded and tapered form of a cane. This is a more tedious job, but if carefully done with sharp tools will give good results.
Turn down the shaft to the desired thickness, as shown at C, the upper end being about 1 in. and the lower end ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter. Turn a knob of walnut as suggested, and after sandpapering the work carefully, finish it with shellac. Tip the bottom of the cane with a suitable ferrule.--E. K. Wehry, Cedar Rapids, Ia.
An Inexpensive Dry-Plate Kit
Wishing to use some 2¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₄-in. plates in a 6¹⁄₂ by 8¹⁄₂-in. camera, I made kits that proved satisfactory, as follows, the method being adaptable also to other sizes: A piece of cardboard the size of the camera plate was procured. A rectangle, as at A, was cut in the center, ¹⁄₁₆ in. larger each way than the plate. Paste, over the back of the cut-out rectangle, a sheet of tough, thin paper, B, and glue two small pieces of cardboard, as at C. Cut cardboard pieces D, E, F, and G, proportioned as at H, and glue them into position, G being over the others, the piece E sliding. If a dry plate is placed in the rectangle and E is slid toward the plate, it will hold the latter in position. The plate holder is loaded with the kit, and to prevent warping, a couple of pins are driven into the plate holder, as at H. Figures J and K indicate the open and closed positions. The ground glass is marked to correspond with the rectangle, so that one can tell where to focus the image.--L. L. Llewellyn, Piedmont, Calif.
Photographic-Print Washing Machine
BY HARRY MARCELLE
Many amateur photographers have occasion to make a considerable number of prints and find the washing of them tedious, by the ordinary methods. In order to overcome this difficulty the print-washing machine shown in the sketch was made. It is simple in construction and performs the work quite satisfactorily at a saving of not a little time. Since the water in which the prints are washed must be agitated, a pivoted tray is provided. A unique feature is the water wheel through which the water supply passes, at the same time developing power to operate the rocker arm, by means of which the tray is agitated.
The frame for the large trough, which contains the tray and other apparatus, is made of 2 by 4-in. uprights, braced with 2 by 2-in. pieces. The trough is made of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock, joined at the ends with a water-tight grooved, or dado, joint. The top is fitted to form a cover and may be hinged or arranged as a lid, supported and held in place by cleats, fixed on its under side with screws. The trough and its fittings may be made of a size suited to individual requirements. The device illustrated is 4 ft. long, and has a trough 18 in. wide and 13 in. high. The interior of the trough is given a coat of tar to make it waterproof, and the exterior may be painted thoroughly to preserve the wood.
The rocking tray, in which the prints are placed, is made of ⁵⁄₈-in. stock. It is 5 in. high, 15 in. wide, and 28 in. long. Splash boards are fixed at its ends, as shown, and the bottom is made of muslin, reinforced with wooden strips, ¹⁄₂ in. wide. The tray is supported on a rod or pipe at its center, the ends of the support being set into the sides of the trough. A crank arm of wood or metal is attached to the center of one end of the tray, and operates through an opening in the top of the trough. The crank arm engages a crank fixed to the shaft of the water wheel, as shown in the sketch. The crank must be made not longer than 2 in., or the resulting action on the tray will pour out too much water, the prints being thus in danger of damage.
The water wheel is made of two round disks of sheet metal, 9 in. in diameter. Strips of wood are fitted between them so that the wheel is 3 in. wide on the face. Wooden blocks, grooved to fit the shaft of the water wheel, are used as bearings. They are fixed to the top with bolts. The water supply is provided through a pipe at one end. A cap is fitted over the end of the extension on the pipe and a small hole drilled through it. This forces the water against the blades of the water wheel rather than permitting it to drop under normal pressure. The flow of water is regulated by the valve on the supply pipe, and the excess water is drained off at the opposite end of the trough. The force of the water, as it leaves the water wheel, is lessened, and the water carried gently to the tray, by means of a board set between the top and the tray, at the wheel end of the trough.
A Washstand for the Baby
To make this washstand, I mounted a cheese box on a frame 20 in. from the floor, and fitted a shelf between the legs 9 in. from the floor. In the center of this shelf a hole was cut, with a compass saw, to hold a wash basin. Rods between the legs are handy for towels, washcloths, etc. Within the circular box are kept baby’s toilet and bath articles. The inside of the box is padded with cotton and lined with nainsook, the latter being used, also, for the cover. When the cover is on the box, the stand is used as a small table. White enamel gives the stand a neat finish.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, New York.
Carrying Strap and Lock for Hand Cases
The illustration shows how to make a locking device for hand cases or satchels, and providing, also, a strap for carrying. Cut two pieces of ⁵⁄₈ by 2-in. strap iron, and two pieces, 2¹⁄₂ in. long. Bend them, and fasten them with screws or rivets, as shown. When the case is carried, the strap holds the crosspieces firmly.
Disk Talking-Machine Records Played Eccentrically
A hole was bored about an inch from the center of a disk talking-machine record and the latter was placed on the machine with the new hole over the center pin of the table. When the record was played, the result was a reproduction extremely amusing and hardly recognizable as compared with the original one.
Safety Flue Stopper Made of Tin Pail
The usual method of covering stovepipe holes in chimneys with a tin disk is not as safe as it should be, especially adjoining nonfireproof material. A safer method is to fit a tin can, or a tin pail, into the chimney hole, as shown. Cut it off the right length, with a pair of tin shears, leaving projections as stops, and replace the disk stopper.--J. A. Raught, Janesville, Wisconsin.
Book Rest for Music Stand
The music-stand attachment shown in the illustration aids in the handling of music books, and is easily made. Some stands are provided with a supporting edge about 1 in. wide and will not properly carry larger music books, and the device is attached to this edge. The device is of wood, ³⁄₁₆ by 3¹⁄₄ in., and the length of the stand. On the bottom, two wood strips are fastened. They are beveled as shown in the sectional view, to wedge on the music rest.--L. R. W. Allison, Newark, N. J.
Uses for Worn Talking-Machine Needles
Among the uses made of discarded steel talking-machine needles are the following: as glazier’s tacks; as brads, where a headless nail or an inconspicuous one is desired; as pins for fastening papers together; and for the tacking in of the backs on picture frames.--William A. Martin. Jersey City, N. J.
Automatic Photo-Print Washing
A photographers’ automatic print-washing device may readily be made with the aid of an alarm clock, and a spool to which a piece of thread is attached as shown. The spool is fixed to the alarm-clock winder. An upright support, having a nail driven into the top and bent over to form a hook, carries the thread, to which the print is attached by a small clip. The alarm-clock mechanism is then set, and when released draws the print from the dish, the bell warning the operator.--George H. Holden, Chesterfield, England.
Portable Sectional Poultry Fencing
Sectional poultry fencing has several advantages over stationary fencing: It can be easily moved, the poultry yard being made larger, smaller, or shifted; an area may be planted to a crop and gradually included in the yard, furnishing greens for the poultry. Also, the tenant who does not care to put down permanent equipment, will find sectional fencing desirable.
Sections are practical to about 18 ft. long, and should be 7 ft. high for the lighter breeds of poultry. If the fencing is to be used for grown stock only, the fine-mesh wire below may be omitted, and 2-in. mesh used. Some sections should be fitted with gates, and the top batten should be set down about 1 ft., so as not to afford footing for the poultry. The sections are lashed together with wire, and supported by an occasional post, or guyed to buildings or supports.
Suitcase Holder for Running Board of Automobile
Two metal strips, ³⁄₁₆ by 1¹⁄₂ by 20 in., were used to make a strong and adjustable holder for suitcases carried on the running board of an automobile. One-inch slots were cut near the top of the strips, which were bent to form angles having an upright portion 12 in. long. The angles are adjusted at the bolts, as shown, and the suitcase is held in place by straps.--Lucien G. Baer, Los Angeles, Calif.
Wheelbarrow for Large Cans
Large cans for milk are awkward to handle and transport in the dairy or barn, and the cart shown in the sketch was made from an old wheelbarrow and sections of pipe, to make this work easy. The pipes were bent to the shape shown and strongly braced with iron rods. A board bottom was provided, and the barrow wheel was mounted between the forked ends of the frame. The cart may be used for numerous other purposes, and is especially convenient in that the load need only be lifted slightly.--Monroe Woolley, San Francisco, Calif.
Plain Butts Used as Double-Swing Hinge
By placing two ordinary plain butt hinges so that two of their wings overlap completely, they may be made to serve as a double-swing hinge. If the holes do not correspond in the adjoining wings, drill new ones, disposing them to give the best hold in the wood. Allowance must be made in applying the hinge, for the double thickness of the center portion.
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¶A rubber finger tip is convenient in counting sheets in that the paper is not soiled, since moistening of the finger is unnecessary.
Portable Skylight for Home Portraiture
BY W. W. IRVINE
Photographers who wish to construct a part of their equipment may be interested in a portable skylight, which I made and use with thorough satisfaction, for home portraiture. Covered with imitation leather, it is quite presentable in carrying it about. Figure 9 shows the case closed, with stand, flash lamp, box of flash powder, and a white-cloth reflector inside. The apparatus set up for work is shown in Fig. 5, and the details of construction in the other sketches.
First make the frames for the top and bottom of the case, A, of ³⁄₈ by 2¹⁄₂-in. wood, and B, of ³⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₄-in. stock, lengths and construction as shown in Fig. 3. Cut from extra-heavy mount board, two 21 by 28-in. pieces, C, and tack one to one side of each of the frames. Cut a similar piece, E, 15 by 26¹⁄₂ in., and hinge it with strong cloth, or thin leather, to the inner side of the thicker frame, to form the roof E, Fig. 5. Hinge the two frames with three butt hinges.
The frame is then ready for covering, and for this purpose imitation leather is economical and practical. Two yards of 36-in. material is needed. Use hot glue, first on the bottom half of the case, applying it smoothly, and press the fabric into place. Then cover the sides, the upper half, and the roof. The covering must be in one piece to prevent the smoke from escaping at the joints. Glue down the edges inside of the case, and set it aside for 24 hours to dry.
While waiting for the case to dry, the work on the bag can be done. Two yards of close-woven white muslin, or one yard of 60-in. sheeting, is required for the front. For the sides, closely woven black material should be used. Figures 1 and 2 show the dimensions, the white portions representing patterns, and the shaded portions material for hems and seams. The material is folded over the pattern, basted down, and hemmed at the dotted lines, 1¹⁄₂ in. from the edge. Sew the front to the curved sides. Allowance for shrinkage, when the bag is washed and fireproofed, has been made in these sizes.
For fireproofing the bag, the following formula is good: water, 60 oz., ammonium phosphate, 4 oz., ammonium chloride, 8 oz. Soak the fabric half an hour, wring it out slightly, and hang it up to dry.
Cut a hole, 6 in. square, in the lower half of the case for the door F, Fig. 5. The door is of galvanized sheet iron, 7 in. square, covered on one side with imitation leather and provided with a leather handle. The door slides in guides of mount board, or metal, as shown in Fig. 4. Figure 8 shows the notch below the door to allow play for the spring of the flash lamp, in place in Figs. 5 and 6. Mine was made for cartridges, but by attaching a pan of heavy tin, I use it for flash powder.
The leather socket, into which the top of the holder G, is slipped, is shown in detail in Fig. 7. Suitcase catches, D, lock the apparatus in open or closed position. The roof E, is supported by two folding desk slides.
To fasten the bag in place, slip a cheap yardstick, or strip, cut to the proper length, in each of the hems at the edges, and set them snugly inside and against the sides of the open case and under the edge of the roof. Fasten them with screws, as shown at the edges in Fig. 5. The bag is easily removed by withdrawing the screws and the strips, for washing and fireproofing it again. The front must hang away from the lamp before the charge is fired, or the bag may be burned. After firing the flash, the skylight is carried out and the smoke expelled.
Fuel Box in Seat Filled from Floor Trapdoor
A fuel box for the fireplace may be easily arranged so that it is unnecessary to carry the fuel through the living rooms, thus avoiding soiling floors and rugs. It may be installed, as shown, for a summer cottage, or even in the living room of a home. The fuel box is built under the seat of a comfortable settle, and the wood, coal, etc., are placed in the fuel compartment by passing it up through trapdoors in the floor at the center of the box. The fuel is piled at each side of the trapdoor behind a low partition, and the trapdoors are closed when not in use. The seat of the fuel box is divided at the middle and hinged to swing back. Suitable cushions should be provided for the seat.--M. P. Norton, Chicago.
Homemade Relay of Inexpensive Materials
A practical relay was made of odds and ends gathered in the workshop. The base is of wood, ³⁄₄ by 3 by 6 in. The magnets A are made of two wire nails driven into the base, the heads projecting 1¹⁄₂ in. They are wound with six layers of fine insulated No. 25 gauge wire, as shown in the small sketch. The ends of these magnet wires are carried to the two binding posts B and C, taken from dry-cell carbons.
The armature D is a piece of soft iron, ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ in., screwed to the armature lever E, which is a ¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂-in. piece of wood. A piece of tin is tacked to the opposite end F, and a ¹⁄₈-in. hole is bored through the lever, 2¹⁄₂ in. from the front end. Nail a wooden block, G, to the base, slotted to accommodate the lever, so that when the latter is pivoted in the slot, the armature will lie directly over the magnet heads. Fit a wooden stop, H, under the end of the lever, so that the armature is held ¹⁄₈ in. above the magnets, by a brass spring, J, connected to the tin, F, and the binding post, K, with copper wire. Arrange the brass hook, L, so it comes in contact with F when the armature bears down upon the magnets. Connect this hook to the binding post, M. When current flows through the magnets, the armature is pulled down and the contact of the hook, L, with the tin, F, completes a secondary circuit.--L. R. Hardins, Harwich, Mass.
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¶A nutcracker may be used as a substitute for a pipe wrench or pliers, and its toothed handles grip round objects quite firmly.
A Photographic Printing Machine
BY L. B. ROBBINS
A printing machine for “gaslight” papers, to be used in localities not equipped with gas or electricity and where printing is to be done after daylight, is shown in the sketch. The measurements given are only approximate, as conditions will determine its size. That shown is made as follows: First procure a 6¹⁄₂ by 8¹⁄₂-in. or 8 by 10-in. printing frame. Remove the brass clips from the pad and fasten one end of the pad to the frame, by a pair of small hinges, with the glass in the frame. Procure a box, about 12 by 15 in., by 8 in. deep, with one side open. Cut a rectangular opening through the 12 by 15-in. side a bit smaller than the printing frame, and secure the frame in place over the opening with screws. Saw a slot ³⁄₄ in. wide through the top of the box--the end nearest the hinged end of the printing frame pad--running it the full width and about 3 in. from the front.
Nail cleats along the inside of each side of the box, placing them vertical and parallel, and about ³⁄₄ in. apart, so as to form a slide groove in conjunction with the slot. This groove is to receive a frame or curtain constructed of stock, 2 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. The outside dimensions of the curtain are a trifle smaller than the inside measurements of the box itself. Cover the frame with orange paper, and when finished insert it through the slot in the top of the box. Build a frame as indicated, on the outside of the box. Along the inside of the uprights fasten cleats, thick enough to come flush with the ends of the slot. These serve to steady the curtain when raised. Make a suitable baseboard and secure the box to it. Then with sheet tin construct a lamp house extending from the back of the box and of sufficient size to accommodate a round-wick lamp. Leave an opening in the top to admit the chimney, provide holes for ventilation, and a door by which the lamp may be adjusted. When completed, paint the interior of the box and lamp house white, to intensify the printing quality of the light. Tie a piece of stout cord to a screw eye inserted in the upper end of the sliding curtain, lead it through two pulleys fastened as shown, and down to the hand lever. The latter is pivoted at the rear end by a bolt. Attach a spring to the lower end of the hinged pad on the printing frame. This holds the pad out of the way when not in use. A curtain-roller spring is suitable for this purpose.
To operate the machine, place the negative and paper in position, and, with the left hand, bring the pad down. Pull down the hand lever with the right hand, raising the orange curtain. When the required exposure is made, release the lever, shutting off the direct light. While nearly all light is shut out by means of the lamp house, the paper may be handled safely and easily by means of that admitted through the orange curtain. By systematic arrangement and handling of materials, it is surprising what an amount of work can be turned out by the aid of this machine, especially if one person attends to the exposing and another to the developing.
A Small Variable Condenser
The condenser shown in the diagram combines the large capacity of a fixed condenser with the gradual capacity variation of a variable one. It is suitable for a wireless receiving circuit, or to shunt around the vibrator of an induction coil, by making the units considerably larger. It is made up of several fixed condensers, connected in parallel, a lever being the means whereby the capacity is varied. Five or more units may be used, each being a small condenser, built up of 10 sheets of waxed paper and nine sheets of tin foil. A convenient size for the tin foil is 6 by 4 in., and for the paper, 5¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. The latter should be a good grade of very thin linen paper and should be carefully prepared by dipping it in hot paraffin. The sheets of tin foil and paper in each unit are piled up alternately, allowing about ¹⁄₂ in. on each tin-foil strip to project beyond the paper for making connections. The pile is covered with heavy paper, and a heated flatiron is passed on the top of each unit until the paraffin begins to melt. Upon cooling, the units are compact.
The connections necessary are shown in the diagram. The condenser units C, D, E, F, G, each have one side connected to a common terminal A. The other sides of the condensers are connected to the copper strips H, J, K, L, M. They are ¹⁄₂ in. wide and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick. A copper lever, ¹⁄₈ by ¹⁄₂ by 8 in., is pivoted on one end so that it will connect two or more of the condensers in parallel. The pivoted end is connected to the terminal B. The dotted line shows different positions of the lever. The apparatus is mounted in a wooden box.--Peter J. M. Clute, Schenectady, N. Y.
Lighting a Candle without Touching the Wick
A candle may be lighted without the match flame touching the wick, as follows: Light the candle, let it burn a bit; then blow it out. A small column of smoke will rise from the wick. Touch the match flame to this, a little above the wick, and it will ignite, travel down, and relight the wick from the burning oil gas.
Emergency Lifting Device of Rope and Lever
When block and tackle, chain hoists, or similar equipment are not at hand, the simple arrangement shown in the sketch is useful for lifting heavy loads. Make the lever A of a piece of 2 by 4-in. stuff, and cut notches into it for the ropes, as indicated. From a suitable support, B, fix the ropes C and D to the lever A at the proper notches, permitting the ends C-1 and D-1 to be drawn down and fastened to the floor or other support as required in raising the load. Fix the rope E to the load W, and suspend it from the lever A at the proper notch by means of a loop, E-1. To raise the load, bear down on the end of the lever when it is in its original position A-1, bringing it to the position A-2. This will bring the lower rope to position E-2. Draw up the slack in rope D, to bring the loop to position D-2, and fasten it. Then lift the lever A from its position A-2, to the position A-3, and draw up the slack in rope C to bring the loop up to position C-2. The lower rope will be brought to position E-3. By repeating this process, the load may be raised gradually. The ropes may, of course, be of various lengths within the range of the support and the operators.
Mucilage Brush and Container Made of a Test Tube
An ordinary test tube, about ⁵⁄₈ by 6 in. in size, may be made into a mucilage container and brush that economizes the material and does not get the fingers sticky. The end of the tube is covered with a piece of soft cloth after the tube is filled, as shown in the sketch. A convenient way to care for the device is to keep it in a small tumbler.--A. H. Carrington, Trenton, N. J.
Holder for Household Ice Pick
An ice pick is often a source of danger, if left lying about the home, and should be kept at a place convenient to the ice box, where it will not be likely to cause injury. The small bracket on which the ends of the roller curtain are supported is a satisfactory holder for the pick. It may be fastened to the wall with nails, or screws, so that the pick may be suspended in the center hole.--Robert J. Donnelly, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Swing Made of Hickory Sapling
A swing, so durable that it has become a virtual landmark, was made from a long, straight hickory sapling suspended from the limb of a tree. The sapling was split part of its length, as shown in the illustration, and a bolt put through it to prevent the upper portion from cracking. The lower end was smoothed off, so as not to injure the hands, and mortised through a slab of wood, as shown in the detailed sketch. A safe hook from which to suspend the swing is suggested. It is made from a bolt fixed through the limb and curled at the hook end so that the swing may be taken down in bad weather.--Hubert Kann, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Match Safe of Miniature Cannon Shell
The match safe shown in the sketch was made by a worker in a munitions plant. The container was shaped like a small cannon shell and was set into a bracket supported on a prettily grained board, stained and varnished, and supported by a chain.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Can.
Washing Bromide Enlargements
The difficulty of washing bromide enlargements of the larger sizes has always made the amateur hesitate to undertake much of this kind of work. The developing and fixing can be done with comparative ease, because of the facility with which the print can be kept moving in a tray that is smaller in size than the print itself, but washing is such a long process that one’s patience is exhausted before the hypo is completely eliminated. Continuous handling of a print for 30 minutes is tedious work. This objection can be overcome in the simplest and most efficacious manner, as follows:
Procure some large corks of the best quality and in each cut a groove completely around it, near one end, to serve as a retainer for a rubber band; then cut the cork lengthwise through the center, and cut a wedge-shaped piece from the center toward the end opposite the one where the groove was cut for the rubber band. After placing a band in the groove of the proper size the combination will work similarly to an old-fashioned spring clothespin.
If two of these are snapped on the edge of a bromide print, this can be dropped into a bathtub or laundry tub for washing. The corks will cause the print to float vertically in the running water. By this means a number of prints can be washed at a time without any danger of their sticking together or becoming wrinkled or cracked in the bath.--Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago.
Bench Support for a Miter Box
To make the most effective use of a miter box, it must be fastened solidly to a base, but if fastened to the workbench top it is in the way when not in use, and it is a nuisance to fasten and unfasten the box every time it is used. To avoid the changing, I mounted the miter box on two pieces of 1 by 3-in. stock, about 2 ft. long. These pieces were placed on the bench top, at right angles to the front edge and with their centers as far apart as the two pairs of legs on the box. The box was placed on the front end of the pieces, with the back parallel to the front of the bench, at right angles to the pieces, and was fastened to them with screws. The other end of each piece was fastened to the bench top with a hinge.
This fastened the miter box firmly to the bench top, but in such a way that I could tip it up and back against the wall, or other support, where it was out of the way but ready for use immediately. To stiffen the frame, I placed a cross brace between the two pieces, making it in the form of the letter H.--Contributed by L. C. Burke, Madison, Wisconsin.
A Blowpipe for Gas
Every experimenter who has a gas connection within convenient distance of the workbench should provide a 4 or 5-ft. length of ¹⁄₄-in. rubber tubing, terminating in a brass tube through which air may be blown in order that a clear blue flame may be available for either hard or soft soldering. The brass tube should be 4 or 5 in. long and fitted at one end with a removable nozzle having a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole in it. A hole is then drilled in the side and a piece of smaller brass tubing, bent as shown in the sketch, is soldered in place for the air supply. A piece of soft-rubber tubing about 1 ft. long is then provided and one end slipped over the projecting end of the air pipe and the other fitted to a hard-rubber, or amber, mouthpiece. By regulating the gas supply and blowing to the proper degree, a pencil of blue flame may be produced, anywhere from 1 to 4 in. long. For heating large surfaces, the nozzle tip should be removed.
This method of soldering not only makes a better connection than the usual copper, but is instantly available and does not disarrange the several pieces where, as is often the case, it is not practicable to pin or hold them in place.
Scraper for Dishes
Housekeepers will find the scraper shown to be silent and more rapid than a knife for cleaning dishes. It consists of a handle cut from a piece of straight-grained wood, with a kerf sawed in the wide end to a depth of ³⁄₄ in., into which a piece of sheet rubber is inserted. The rubber may be cut from an old bicycle-tire casing and is fastened with two or three brads driven through the handle. The ends of the brads are bent over or riveted. The edge of the rubber should be made straight.--Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford, Minn.
Protecting Lights in a Gymnasium
A public-school auditorium was used for playing basket ball, and the lights were protected as shown. Wire waste-baskets were fastened to pieces of board, which in turn were nailed to the ceiling around each lamp. As it was desired to provide a way to ventilate the room, an opening was cut in each board around the lamp base, providing fan-shaped cut-outs covered with galvanized metal of the same design, to make a way to open and shut the ventilator. The air passed up into an attic.
The goals, which were old blackboards, were fastened between the posts that supported the ceiling. Two iron rods, one above the other, were clamped with bolts to the posts, and the boards were bolted to the rods.--Contributed by Frank C. Svacha, McKees Rocks, Pa.
Shortening a Pasteboard Box
If a pasteboard box happens to be too long for a special purpose it can be shortened as shown. The sides are cut down to the bottom and the end removed. The bottom is then bent up on a line between the places where the sides were cut down, to form a new end for the box. The joining parts are then held with a thread or wire fasteners.
Repairing Shade-Roller Springs
Springs of window-shade rollers, which usually break at the tin cap by which they are fastened inside the rod, can be quickly repaired in the following manner:
Remove the ferrule and dogs from the end of the roller and pull out the stick to which the spring is attached. Measure the length of the stick A, Fig. 1, on the roller, and at C cut a small square hole through to the hollow center. Remove the metal cap thus exposed. Fix the cap on the end of the stick at B and fasten the spring around one point of the metal cap, Fig. 2. Insert the stick into the roller and tap it gently, driving the cap points in; then replace the ferrule and dogs, and the roller is in condition for use.
Drying Photo Films Rapidly
Waiting for photographic films to dry is often tedious, particularly when the photographer is in haste to see the results of his efforts at picture taking. The method of drying the films shown in the sketch will aid materially in the process. The films are held by small spring clips attached to the wire frame surrounding the fan, and when the current is turned on, the films are blown away from the fan and held suspended in a diagonal position.--Contributed by W. J. Clausius, Chicago, Ill.
Applying and Drying Bronze Powders
Surfaces may be coated readily with bronze powder by applying a thin coat of shellac and quickly dusting the powder over it. Speed is important in dusting on the powder, as if the shellac hardens it will not hold the bronze. Surfaces which have been bronzed in this way may be polished if additional coats of shellac or varnish are applied over them.
Forceps for Weeding Garden
Difficulty in removing small weeds around plants in the garden may be overcome by the use of a forceps made of a piece of wire, as shown in the illustration. The wire is formed into two loops by which the weeds are grasped, and the portion held in the hand is bent to form a circular spring. Its tension may be regulated so that the hand will not be tired in using the device.--Contributed by Irving McEwen, New Westminster, B. C., Canada.
Shielding Pictures from Damp Walls
Injury to pictures from dampness of walls may be prevented by fixing small disks of cork to the lower edge of the frame so as to form a contact with the wall only at the cork. This permits a current of air to pass between the wall and frame.
New Method of Developing Roll Films
BY T. B. LAMBERT
Many devices have been made for developing and fixing roll films. There is the simple wholesale method of the professional who hangs a weight on one end of the film and lets it down in a deep tank of developing fluid where it hangs submerged from an upper support until the development is complete. Then the support, the film, and attached weight are removed, dipped into a similar tank of running water, then to another tank of fixing solution, and subsequently washed and dried.
This is the only practical plan where there are many such films to be handled simultaneously, but the amateur who has only one or two rolls a week cannot afford the tanks, the space, nor the expense incident to such a method. The film is usually drawn back and forth through a developing solution placed in a tray, and after the development has proceeded far enough, the same process used in washing, then the hypo solution, and finally through the last washing for about 20 minutes, all making a tedious process.
Some amateurs and a few professionals who but occasionally develop roll film use a mechanical device that rolls the film into a light-proof package which is inserted in a metal tank for development and subsequent fixation. This is a standard process, the apparatus being on sale at all supply houses, but it has its drawbacks.
The following method is not only simple but perfect in its operation and requires no special apparatus, only a tumbler or lemonade glass, and an ordinary lead pencil for its operation. A glass rod is preferable to the lead pencil, and it is also convenient to have a deep tin cup, or similar device, to cover up the lemonade glass and make it light-proof, should it be desirable to turn on the white light in the dark room.
Pour enough developing solution into the glass tumbler to cover completely the roll of film when it is standing on end. In the dark room open the film roll, remove the backing paper and the paper ends on the film, run it through clear water until it is thoroughly and uniformly wetted from end to end, and drop it endwise into the tumbler of developer. Immediately insert the pencil or glass rod into the center of the roll, and with a rather quick circular motion, move the rod around so that it will quickly pass between the several convolutions of the film and thus distribute the developer all over its surface. Repeat this operation at once, then again in a few seconds, then in 15 or 20 seconds, then in 30 seconds, then in 1 minute, and so on, with greater intervals of time. If a 20-minute developer is used, it will only be necessary, at the latter part of the development, to separate the layers every 2 or 3 minutes.
When the development is complete, pour off the solution and rinse in the same glass by letting water run through it while passing the pencil or glass rod between the layers several times. The water may then be drained off, and the glass filled with the fixing solution. While the film is fixing, the glass rod should be passed between the layers several times to renew the solution in contact with the film.
It will be seen that at no time after the first washing is it necessary to handle the film, so that damage to the film and staining the fingers are entirely eliminated. Further than that, no apparatus is tied up in the operation, and if a light-proof cup is at hand, the developing tumbler may be covered between the operations of separating the layers of film, and the white light of the dark room can be turned on for further operations.
Swinging Bags on the Arms of a Scarecrow
The ordinary ragman used as a scarecrow can be made more effective by adding to it something to make it move, or some part that flutters in the wind. This can be accomplished in one way by blowing up paper bags to expand them to their full extent, tying the openings as if they were filled with some commodity for the household, and fastening them to the arms of the dummy as shown. These will swing and flutter about in a way that will materially aid in scaring away the birds that damage the crops.
An Artistic Card Tray
Serving and card trays can be made very beautiful and artistic with the use of butterflies, natural grasses, and the fluffy part taken from the milkweed pod, formed to make a natural scene beneath the glass bottom of the tray. If an old tray is to be used, remove the old panel, or painting, beneath the glass bottom, and clean the glass thoroughly. Lay it upside down on a flat table top and carefully place on it a cluster of grass, or weeds, or some botanical specimens, that are well dried. Arrange the dried butterflies in a natural way around the grasses with their backs, or tops of the wings, facing out, or on the glass.
The silky down of the milkweed seed, with the seed removed, is used to cover the specimens and grass, which forms the most delicate background possible. It is laid on quite thick at the bottom of the scene, gradually thinning it toward the top. Be careful to see that the fibers of the down are placed so that they will radiate from the bottom of the grasses to the outer edges. A piece of white, pearl, or gray cardboard is then placed on this background, and another glass or board back is sealed tightly over the whole with glue or wax.--Contributed by Joe V. Romig, Allentown, Pa.
Deodorizing Lard Buckets
Lard buckets are the most easily obtained and the most satisfactory of utensils in which to pack food, or cook for a small picnic or camping party, but it is very difficult to remove the odor of the lard. This may be easily accomplished by boiling the grounds from the coffeepot in the bucket with about one pint of water.
A Parlor Cue Alley
BY C. QUINCY IVES
Parlor cue alley is really a game of bowling except that it is played on a small raised board, and, instead of throwing the balls by hand, an ordinary billiard cue is used, the balls being about 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. The automatic feature of this new game saves the time usually required to set up the pins, and assures that they will be set absolutely true each time.
To build this alley, first procure three planed boards, hard wood preferred, though they are more difficult to work; two, 10 ft. long, 9 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and the other, 10 ft. long, 15 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. Place the first two boards side by side and fasten them with cleats, the first cleat being placed 18 in. from the end to be used for the pins. The cleats should be of ³⁄₈ or ⁷⁄₈-in. material and cut as long as the upper board is wide, or 15 in. These are placed on top of the lower boards, or between the two. By placing the first one 18 in. from the end, clearance is obtained for the trap A. The other board is placed on the cleats and fastened, after it has been centrally located, with screws from the under side. The screws must not come through or the surface of the upper board be marred in any way so that the balls cannot roll freely. The difference in width of the lower board and the upper one provides 1¹⁄₂-in. clearance on each side as grooves for the return of the balls.
Inclose the alley with boards, 3 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, to the point B, and from there around the pin end with boards, 6 in. wide. The upper board should be cut to such a length that a space of 2 in. at the end C will be provided. Into this space is fitted a block of wood, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, having its upper surface slightly pitched toward the sides of the alley to start the balls back to the front of the board. From the ends of this block two strips, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, are fitted into the side grooves, from D to E, on an incline, to return the ball after each shot.
The location of each pin is marked on the end of the upper board, and small holes are drilled just large enough to admit pieces of stout cord, like a fishline, to pass through freely. The pins are made of hard wood, carefully balanced, so that one end will not be heavier than the other. The lower end of each pin is drilled to make a recess, F, in which the cord is fastened with a screw or nail. Holes are bored through the bottom board, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, to correspond to the 10 small holes made through the upper one. Lead weights of about 2 oz. are fitted in the holes and attached to the strings from the pins. The ends of the weights should extend about ¹⁄₂ in. from the under side of the alley.
Attach a board, 18 in. square, with hinges to the end of the alley so that it will hang under the weights. A stout cord is run along the under side of the alley to the front end through screw eyes, and attached to the swinging board. By letting the board swing down the weights are released and they draw the pins into a standing position, accurately set for the next break. When set, the line is drawn, and the swinging board pushes the weights up and releases the pins.
The balls used are made of hard wood, and, if it is not desirable to make them, they can be purchased from a toy store. They are 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. Each player has three shots. The ball is placed on the spot G and shot with a billiard cue, the object being to knock down as many pins as possible; the score is kept as in bowling.
Horses can be made of metal and wood, as shown, for holding the alley at the proper height. The alley can be used on a large table, but horses are more convenient.
The Glass-and-Hat Trick
The effect of this trick is as follows: The performer first exhibits a small table, about 2 ft. square, the top of which is covered with black velvet. He requests the loan of a Derby hat and a handkerchief, then takes an ordinary glass, filled with water, and places it on the table top, covers it with the handkerchief, and sets the hat on top of the glass. He then withdraws a short distance, and at a command, the glass appears to pass slowly through both handkerchief and hat until the hat rests on the table top. The hat is then taken up and is handed to the owner, who finds the glass of water in the hat.
While this is seemingly impossible, the effect can be easily accomplished and the necessary apparatus can be made up cheaply if a table of suitable size can be had, although a kitchen table may be used if so desired, but a table about 2 ft. square is preferred, because it can be easily carried. The table is prepared as follows: Procure a block of wood, about 2 in. square and 1¹⁄₂ in. thick, and glue it to the under side of the table in the center. Bore a ¹⁄₄-in. hole through both the table top and the block of wood. The top of the table must be covered with some black cloth, such as velvet. Using the hole bored as a center, cut out a piece of the table top to correspond with the diameter of the glass to be used, and about ¹⁄₈ in. deep, fit into this depression a piece of round sheet brass. Procure a ¹⁄₄-in. rod, about 6 in. long, and fasten the brass disk to the end of it so that the disk will fit into the round depression when the rod is run through the hole in the table top and block. The other, or lower, end of the rod is filed flat, and a small hole is drilled through it, the edges being smoothed to receive a thread. The top of the brass disk is covered with the same material as is used for covering the table top. This will make it appear to be one piece covering the table top. Fasten a strong black thread to one corner of the table top on the under side, and run it through the hole drilled through the end of the rod, then over a small window-curtain roller fastened into the opposite corner of the table top, where the thread is run down a table leg and through another pulley out under a rug or the floor to an assistant where the thread will not be seen. The metal disk can then be controlled without any apparent power. If the rod extends under the table too far, tape some velvet or fancy cloth around the table edge to cover it.
To begin the trick, the performer exhibits the glass of water, then sets it on the table just back of the disk, and in placing the borrowed handkerchief it is put on the disk rather than the glass. As the handkerchief is held in front of the glass the assistant pulls the disk up; thus the handkerchief is placed on the disk and the glass of water is left uncovered just behind it. The performer then starts to put the borrowed hat on the glass, crown up, and when, seeing his mistake, he apologizes, turns the hat over, and in doing so picks up the glass of water and places it in the hat. The hat is then set on the disk with the crown down. In turning the hat the glass is taken up with the first two fingers of the right hand. When the hat is raised, the glass is also raised with it, and while doing this the hat is slanted so as to hide the glass. In turning the hat over, the glass is brought into it. This is quite hard to explain, but a little practice will enable the performer to make no mistake. When the hat is placed on the disk the assistant slowly lets the disk down. It is very necessary to let the hat down slowly, as a sudden jerk is apt to tumble the hat over and spoil it as well as the trick. When the hat comes to rest on the table top, it is removed and handed to the owner with the glass of water in it.
Wire-Mesh Support for Flower Centerpiece
Pansies, violets, or other short-stemmed flowers cannot easily be shown to advantage in a table centerpiece unless properly supported. By placing a frame of wire mesh in the dish, as shown in the sketch, the stems of the flowers may be set in the openings, giving a neat and effective display.--Victor Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.
False Bottom for Emptying Wastebasket
In order to avoid handling paper and other material which sometimes sticks in a wastebasket, I arranged a false bottom in the receptacle, as shown in the sketch. A hole was cut in the bottom of the basket and a square board, nearly as large as the bottom, was fitted over it, and a leather handle provided. The basket may be emptied quickly by forcing out the false bottom, without the hands touching the contents.--Harold Laughlin, Reading, Michigan.
Making Use of Refrigerator in Winter
By fitting a 3-in. pipe into the lower part of a refrigerator so that a draft of cool air from outdoors is available in cold weather, it may be used without ice for a considerable part of the year. The top is left open slightly, and a piece of cheesecloth is tied over the outside end of the pipe, to prevent dust from entering. A tin shutter is placed on the inside of the refrigerator to close the pipe in extremely cold weather. This arrangement has proved quite satisfactory for the winter storage of food.--R. R. Dowsley, Prescott, Canada.
Inkwell Base Made from Fuse Socket
Workers in the munitions industry frequently devise small useful or ornamental objects in imitation of, or from, discarded parts on which they work. The inkwell shown in the sketch was made from a rejected fuse socket of a shrapnel shell. It was fitted with a glass container and fastened into a wooden base.
Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping Water
An ordinary pail may be converted into a convenient device for dipping water by fitting a valve into the bottom, as shown in the sketch. Fasten a piece of soft leather to the bottom of a block, 3 in. square, and fix this to the bottom of the bucket by means of a small hinge. By pushing the bucket bottom down into the water, the latter rises up through the valve until the bucket is full. By lifting it the valve is closed. This device fitted to a tall milk pail is especially convenient.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
A Shoe-Polishing Strop
It is awkward to shine one’s shoes with a long strip of cloth as is done by a shoe shiner to produce a high polish. An effective substitute method is to suspend from the wall a strip of cloth, about 5 in. wide, doubled to a length of 30 in., and rub the shoes on it before putting them on.
A Magic Cabinet
The performer calls the attention of his audience to a cabinet mounted on short legs and having doors in the front, back, and top. The back door is opened, then the top and front, and an arm is thrust through to show that the cabinet is empty and without double doors or double walls. The performer also puts his wand beneath the box to show that there is no deception there. The doors are then closed, except the top, and reaching down, he takes out any number of articles, from handkerchiefs to rabbits, and then the front door is opened to show the box is empty, but upon closing the front door again, he is still able to produce articles until the supply is exhausted. Wonderful though this trick may appear, it is very simple, and if a person is handy with tools, it can be made from lumber taken from a packing box.
To make the cabinet, nail together, in the shape of a rectangle, two pieces, 16 in. long, 14 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and two pieces 14 in. square and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. To one of the latter pieces fasten four legs, one at each corner. In the opposite piece, or the top, make an opening in the center, 8 in. square. This opening is covered with a door 8¹⁄₂ in. square, supplied with a knob to open it easily. A piece, 16 in. long and 14 in. wide, with an attached knob, is hinged to the front, for a door; also another for the back hinged in the same manner and with a knob. In the back there is a cutout made, 9 in. long and 7 in. wide, in the center. In this opening a swinging box is hung to hold the articles taken from the cabinet. The swinging box is made of two pieces, 9 in. long and 7 in. wide, and two pieces about ¹⁄₂ in. larger each way, nailed together on ends, cut triangular. This box is hinged in the opening so that it will swing in or out as desired and show a panel on either side of the door. The front door should have a panel nailed on each side of equal size, to make both doors appear alike.
After loading all the things desired to be shown in the triangular box, start the trick by pushing this box into the cabinet and showing the outside; then open the back, and in doing so, push the triangular box out as the door swings back and away from the audience. This shows that there is nothing to be seen but the panel. Open the front door and top, and the cabinet will appear empty. Close both front and back doors, and in making this change, push the triangular box in, and begin to take the things out through the top door.
By careful construction the cabinet can be made so that the doors will open freely and the triangular box swing easily so that it will not be seen in operating it. With a clever performer this trick is without an equal, as many variations can be made in the performance.
Countersinking a Hole Smoothly
When a hole in a piece of steel, iron, or brass is being countersunk, the drill usually chatters, making the countersink rough. Where a smooth hole is required, it is best to make the countersink first and drill the hole afterward. By doing so the hole will be perfectly smooth.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
Receptacle for Shellac Varnish
A simple, inexpensive, and practical pot and cover for holding shellac varnish in the pattern shop, or at home, is shown in the sketch. It consists of a base made of wood having in the center a counterbore into which a glass tumbler, or other container, is fitted. For the cover an ordinary flowerpot is used, fitting down over a ring on the base. An accumulation of shellac around the top cannot come in contact with the cover. The brush extends through the hole in the bottom of the flowerpot and is held suspended by means of a leather washer resting on it.--Contributed by J. D. Roberts, Kenosha, Wisconsin.
Homemade Vaporizer
A simple vaporizer which can be used by designers to project their colors in a fluid spray, or by housekeepers to disinfect or perfume their apartments, can be made in the following manner: Two goose quills are forced through holes in a cork at right angles to each other, as shown. Place the vertical quill in a bottle containing the fluid to be sprayed and by blowing through the horizontal quill a very effective spray will be produced.--Contributed by Hazel Kolar, Maywood, Ill.
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¶Old wringer clamps, used for holding the wringer to the tub, are very handy around a workbench.
Tooth Powder Used on Tracing Cloth
Tooth powder is an excellent substitute for the powders which are sold for the purpose of preparing the glossy surface of tracing linen to receive ink. The gritty element removes the excess gloss which prevents the ink from taking hold. A second dusting with talcum powder makes a perfect surface for inking in.
A Small Gas Furnace
A small gas furnace for melting small quantities of gold, silver, or other metals, can be easily made as follows: Procure a cylinder of stovepipe iron of the desired size, say 4¹⁄₂ or 5 in. in diameter, and 6 in. long. Turn in the edge of one end so that it will hold loosely a disk of iron of the same thickness as the cylinder, to form the bottom. Punch ¹⁄₈-in. holes, about 1 in. apart, all over the cylinder and the bottom. This is to allow for the escape of moisture and air. Attach three legs to the sides with rivets, evenly spaced so as to raise the bottom 4 in. In the side of the cylinder cut a hole, 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter, its center being 1¹⁄₂ in. from the bottom. Select a glass bottle whose diameter is 1 or 1¹⁄₂ in. less than that of the cylinder.
Make a putty of fire clay, and add about five per cent of plaster of Paris, and also add about a teaspoonful of vinegar, to prevent a too rapid setting. Place a mass of the putty in the bottom of the cylinder and press in the bottle after its surfaces have been well greased. The bottle should be well centered in the cylinder. Press the bottle well down, so that its bottom is on a level with the lower edge of the hole in the side. Fill in the putty to form the sides, tamping it well all around the bottle, and build it up a little above the metal of the sides, carefully smoothing off the edge. With the fingers, or a spatula of some kind, cut out the putty in the hole to form an opening, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter. Allow the putty to set for more than an hour, and then with a circular, or twisting, motion remove the bottle. To prevent a vacuum in the bottom that will prevent removing the bottle easily, puncture the putty that lies on the disk with a hatpin, to allow the air to pass.
A few places will be found where the putty has not filled in properly, and these should be patched up while the filling is yet soft. The clay will probably shrink after standing for a time, and should be pressed out against the sides while in a plastic state. When dry, the furnace is ready for use.
In furnaces of this kind the jet of a large gas blowtorch is to be used. If a standard is rigged up to hold the blowtorch, it will be much easier for the operator. The jet from the pipe is thrown in the hole at the side and a crucible is placed in the furnace. It is well to make a cover similar to the body of the furnace with a hole in the center a little larger than the hole in the side.
A more efficient furnace can be made with two holes in the side, opposite each other, for using a double jet from blowtorches.--Contributed by James H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.
The Magic Clock Hand
The hand, or pointer, is the only working part needed to perform the trick. A clockface can be drawn on any piece of white paper, and a pin stuck in its center on which the hand revolves. The hand A is cut from a piece of sheet brass, and may be in any form or design desired, but it must balance perfectly on the axle, which passes through a ¹⁄₄-in. hole in the center, or else the magic part will fail. The illustration shows a good design with dimensions that will cause it to balance well; however, this can be adjusted by removing some metal from the end that is heavier with a file or tinner’s snips, or a bit of solder may be stuck to the lighter end.
A disk, B, is cut from a piece of sheet brass, 1¹⁄₈ in. in diameter, twelve ³⁄₃₂-in. holes are drilled at equal distance apart near the edge, and a ¹⁄₄-in. hole is drilled in its center. This disk is soldered to the hand where both ¹⁄₄-in. holes will coincide. It is necessary to procure two washers, C and D, that are embossed, or raised, in the center, and about 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. These can be purchased from a dealer in curtain rods, the rod parts wanted being the washers used on the ends. A careful mechanic can raise the center portion of a brass disk by beating it over a hole with a ball-peen hammer.
One of the washers, C, has a spring, E, soldered at one end, and the other carries a small projection that will engage the holes in the disk, B. The projection can be made by driving the metal out with a center punch, set on the opposite side.
The washer D is provided with a lead weight, F, and a ¹⁄₄-in. stud, G, is soldered in the center. The stud has a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole drilled through its center for the pin axle. The weight is made by filling the washer with melted lead, which when cold is removed and sawn in two. One piece is then stuck in the washer with shellac. The stud is ⁷⁄₈ in. long with the upper part, about ¹⁄₄ in. in length, filed, or turned down, smaller, and threaded. Just below the thread, or on the shoulder, the body is filed square to fit a square hole filed in the face washer C carrying the spring. This square hole and stud end are necessary in order that both washers may turn together.
The dial can be made of a piece of thick cardboard, or thin wood, with the numbers from 1 to 12 painted on, like a clockface. A pin, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter, or an ordinary large pin, is run through the center so that it will project on the face side on which the hand is to revolve.
The washer D with the weight is placed on the rear side of the hand with the fixed stud run through the hole in the center of the hand; then the washer C is placed on the square part of the stud, and the nut J, which should have a round, knurled edge, is turned on the threads. This will cause the projection on the spring E to engage one of the small holes on the disk B. In turning the two washers, C and D, with the thumb and first finger of the right hand, the projection snapping into the holes of the disk B can be felt. The hand is placed on the pin of the clockface, and the washers are turned so that the weight will make it point to 12. Scratch a mark on the hand at H, also mark a line on the front washer at this point. These lines are necessary, as they enable the performer to know how many holes to snap the spring over to have the hand point at any desired number.
By reversing the hand it will point to a different number; for instance, if set for 8 and put on the pin backward, it will point to 4, and so on, with other settings. The dial can be held in the hand, hung on a stand, or fastened to a wall, and can be used to tell the day of the week, time of day, cards selected, etc. The audience can call for any number on the clockface, and the setting of the disks is an easy matter while holding the hand, or pointer, in the hands, so that it cannot be detected.
Uses for Steel Wool
The use of steel wool in place of sandpaper when finishing off new or old work, when preparing it for varnishing or other finishes, will be found very helpful. It is put up in small packages and can be obtained in several grades of fineness. It is especially useful when removing old finishes, in and around moldings, etc., since it conforms to irregular shapes as sandpaper will not. Put on a pair of heavy canvas gloves when using steel wool. They will keep the fine slivers out of the skin. These gloves will also be found useful when varnishing and painting.
Turning Long Wood Rods
To turn a long wood rod of small diameter is not an easy job for the amateur, and a suitable tool for the purpose is seldom found in the amateur’s outfit. The tool illustrated can be easily made from materials that are always at hand. A block of hard wood, A, is first provided, and a hole, B, large enough to admit the square strip from which the rod is to be turned, is bored in the end, whereupon the hole C, which has the diameter of the finished rod, is bored through the block. The hole D is next bored at right angles to the axis of the hole C, and so placed that its edge just touches the outer edge of the hole C. This hole is to receive an ordinary gouge, and must be of such size as to receive the gouge snugly.
The gouge is ground back far enough on the under side to make the cutting edge level with its back, and then beveled off on the inside to a sharp edge. The gouge E is placed in the hole D with the cutting edge on the center line, as shown, and held in place with a wood plug, F. A little soap applied to the bore C will prevent binding.
To use the tool, a strip of wood is pointed sufficiently to allow it to enter the hole C a short distance. The strip may be rotated by holding it in the chuck of a lathe while the tool is held in the hand, using the handle of the gouge to prevent its turning with the stick.--Contributed by J. A. Brearley, Washington, D. C.
Hanging Ladder for a Hatchway
A handy ladder to swing from a hatchway can be made of a solid plank, as shown. Cut the plank to the length desired and saw notches on each side to form steps. With a solid hook to fasten it in a similar hook in the ceiling, at the edge of the opening, it makes a novel yet practical ladder.--Contributed by Victor Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.
An Oilcan Stopper
An empty cartridge shell makes an excellent stopper for an oilcan in case the original stopper becomes lost. The cap in the shell is removed and the hole enlarged with the tang of a file so that a leather thong can be inserted. A knot is tied in the thong on both sides of the base, to prevent the thong from slipping either way. The end of the thong is tied to the bail of the can.
Enamel for Steel Fishing Rods
Make a thin solution of shellac in alcohol and add a teaspoonful of Venice turpentine to each half pint, and the same quantity of lampblack for a black enamel. Scrape the bare spots on the rod and heat it slightly, to melt the shellac for the first coat. Use a fine brush and apply two or three coats, which will give a smooth, glossy, and elastic surface that will not scale or crack.
Bench Receptacles for Small Articles
When working with small, round articles, such as ball bearings, it often happens that they roll off the bench and are lost. To remedy this, I bored several holes, each 2 in. in diameter, in a convenient place in the workbench top, making them about ³⁄₈ in. deep, for the different articles. To make the small parts easily accessible the holes were filled in with thick paste made of plaster of Paris which was molded into a saucer shape. After the plaster became thoroughly dry the inner surface was painted over with white enamel. This made them easily cleaned with a damp cloth. Any article dropped into these depressions will roll to the center, and as the sides are curved it can be easily picked up when it is wanted.--Contributed by Frank L. Matter, Portland, Oregon.
Ruler with Round and Flat Edges
Picking up a smooth piece of ordinary wood molding, intending to use it as a ruler, I found that its shape, A, combined the properties of the round ruler and flat ruler, as well as assuming the third position D. A simple reverse changes the edge from a round to a sharp or flat, accommodating it to a pen or pencil, as shown. Such a piece of molding can be procured from a local lumber dealer.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
A Trouser Hanger
A wood frame, similar to a picture frame, is made up and hinged to the inner side of the closet door with its outer edge hung on two chains. The inside of the frame is fitted with cross bars. After hanging the trousers on the cross bars the frame is swung up against the door where it is held with a hook. Several pairs of trousers can be hung on the frame, and when flat against the door it takes up very little space. The trousers are kept flat so that they will hold their crease.
An Emergency Alcohol Stove
If a person starts on a picnic with a ketchup bottle full of wood alcohol placed in the lunch basket and suddenly discovers that the alcohol stove was left at home, it is not necessary to walk back to get it; just unscrew the cover of the ketchup bottle and bunch a piece of cloth large enough to fill the top, soak it thoroughly in the alcohol and light it. The metal top is just the right size to make a hot flame.
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¶A box 8¹⁄₄ in. square and 4 in. deep will hold one gallon.
Fireside Dissolving Views
BY SUSAN E. W. JOCELYN
To those interested in amateur theatricals the following method of showing dissolving views in the fire-light of pipe dreams and mind pictures will be appreciated.
A frame made of light material, A, Fig. 1, covered with red cloth and chalked to represent brick, is placed in the center of the stage. The central opening, representing the fireplace, must be rather large, about 12 ft. wide and 7 ft. high, because it is at the back of this opening that the pictures are produced. From the chimney back, 2¹⁄₂ ft. behind this opening, the sides, B, of the fireplace slope outward to the imitation brickwork. The walls of the fireplace are covered with sheet asbestos, for safety, and painted black; then ashes are rubbed on the chimney back and scattered over the hearthstone, to make the appearance more realistic.
The chimney back is removable, in fact it is one of a series of a half dozen screens, the others being behind it, the proper manipulation of which, together with changing lights, gives to the audience the effect of dissolving views of the dreams that are being acted out directly behind the screens.
The screens are carried in a light frame, the top of which is shown in Fig. 2, with position of runs. The runs are made of narrow strips of wood, fastened to the under side of two end pieces, for the screen frames to slide in. Corresponding strips are placed in a suitable position on the floor, to keep the screens steady in sliding. The frames holding the run pieces are longer than the chimney back is wide, and the upper one is placed as high as the brickwork, the shelf, or mantel, over the fireplace being an extension of the upper part, or frame. The screens are in pairs, as shown in Fig. 3, each one extending to the center of the fireplace. They consist of light frames covered with black mosquito netting. The upper and lower sides of the frames are sandpapered smooth so that they will move easily in the runs. The vertical sides of a pair of screen frames that meet in the center of the fireplace are made of one strand of wire, instead of wood, so that their motion will not be noticeable. To complete the apparatus, andirons and a gas log are needed in the fireplace, and whatever arrangements are necessary for the action of the views to be shown behind the screens.
If gas is available, an asbestos log is used in the fireplace, and it has a connecting pipe to the footlights, where four or five jets are located on the floor just back of the screens. A narrow board, painted black, is placed in front of the lights, which should be wide enough to conceal the lights from the spectators and reflect the light on the tableau. If the light is thrown above the imitation brickwork, then it should be made higher.
In most halls, and some houses, electric lights are used instead of gas, and in this case ordinary logs are piled in the fireplace on the andirons, and one or more red globes are introduced to produce the effect of glowing embers. The gas is more effective, however, because it is not easy to get a gradual rise and fall in the glow of electric lights. Four or five footlights are sufficient.
The working of the dissolving views can be best explained by an illustration from “Reveries of a Bachelor.” The gas log is turned low to make the stage dimly lighted, and the tableau to be shown is all arranged behind the chimney back and the screens. There should be barely sufficient light to reveal the bachelor on the hearthstone smoking in the gloaming. Then the chimney back almost imperceptibly parts, that is, the screens of the first pair are gradually pulled apart, the footlights and gas log are gradually turned on, and the tableau behind the fireplace, being more brightly illuminated, is dimly seen through the series of screens. Slowly the successive pairs of screens are drawn aside, and the tableau becomes quite distinct. Then the process is reversed, the screens are gradually replaced, the lights are lowered and the dream fades away; brightens and fades again; brightens and fades, till gone entirely. The screens are always slowly moving while the tableau is exposed, and this makes the illusory effect. It is evident that the success of this plan depends principally on the coördination with which the screens are operated. “Cinderella,” and many other tales based on the vagaries of the mind and having their source in glowing embers, can thus be presented.
Imitation-Celluloid Scales and Name Plates
Often the amateur turns out a very workmanlike piece of apparatus, which only lacks the addition of a scale or name plate to give it a truly professional appearance. I recently hit upon an excellent method of making these articles in a manner that will stand considerable wear and at the same time present a very good appearance. Simply take a piece of good Bristol board and letter it as desired with waterproof drawing ink, then apply a coat of clear varnish, such as is used on bird’s-eye maple furniture. After not less than 24 hours rub lightly with fine steel wool, wipe clean, and revarnish. Usually two coats are sufficient, and the last should be rubbed with a soft oily rag dipped in some abrasive material such as tooth powder, or one of the many powders used for metal polishing. Finally polish with a little oil, and the result will be a perfect imitation of celluloid.--Contributed by John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
Direct View Finder for a Box Camera
Disappointment in the taking of pictures with a small camera is often caused by the inability of the photographer to obtain an accurate view of what he is photographing. If, instead of the small view finder on the camera, the device illustrated is used, a view of the resultant photograph may be obtained, right side up, and of nearly the same size as the finished print.
The distance from the lens of the camera to the front surface of the plate or film must be determined. In the camera shown this was 4¹⁄₂ in. The distance from the small metal eyepiece, when it is in place on the box, to the inner side of the opposite end of the box must be made ¹⁄₂ in. shorter than this measurement. This will cause the box to be shorter than the camera.
The box is constructed so that the sides extend above the top and engage the camera. The view-finder eyepiece is made from a flat piece of sheet metal, laid out as shown, and bent into the desired shape. It is fixed over the center of the end of the box. The sight hole must be ¹⁄₃₂ in. in diameter. By sighting through the small opening in the eyepiece an unobstructed view of the prospective photograph is obtained.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont.
Checking a Rip in Tire Tubes
It is often difficult to prevent a small rip in an inner tube of a tire from becoming longer, even though a patch has been applied. An effective remedy is to punch a small round hole at each end of the rip before applying the patch. This stops the tendency to rip farther when pressure is applied.--Contributed by George H. Holden, Chesterfield, England.
Protecting Wall Back of Range or Sink
A simple and attractive protection for the wall back of the range or sink in a kitchen was provided by fixing a piece of plate glass to the wall by means of round-headed brass screws. The glass may be washed easily and can be removed when new wall covering is applied.--Contributed by Jennie E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.
Polishing with a Hand Drill
There are certain desired effects in polishing metal that can only be obtained with a true rotary motion. There is no amount of handwork that will produce a proper finish on the round head of a brass screw. Therefore, when small pieces of metal are to be shaped up with the file and polished, simply set them in a three-jaw chuck of a hand drill, and then clamp the drill in a vise, as shown in the illustration. Operate the drill with the left hand and hold the file, or emery paper, with the right, and a finish will be obtained that can in nowise be distinguished from lathe work. It is surprising how different round-head brass screws appear when treated in this manner.
Releasing a Parachute from a Kite
Parachutes may be released from suspended kites readily by providing tripping loops on the kite tail, as shown in the illustration. Form a loop on one end of a piece of cord, and tie the other end to the kite tail. Make a loop in one end of another piece of cord and tie the other end to the top of the parachute. Tie a piece of cord around a nail close to its head and fix this also to the kite tail. Pass one loop through the other and insert the nail, as shown in the sketch. To trip the parachute, pull in about a yard of string and release it quickly. The parachute will trip without fail. The end of the string may be fastened to a stake driven into the ground or it may be held in the hand.
A Trick Blotter
An ordinary blotter may be transformed easily so that it will remove ink completely when applied instead of leaving sufficient to recognize the script, by steeping it in a solution of oxalic acid. Permit it to dry after several applications of the acid. It will be the source of much amusement, and is useful as well.
Magic Candles Explained
BY CLIFFORD WAYNE
Clever and baffling though it may be, the magic-candle trick may be performed easily and with professional skill by a person who has made a few simple preparations. The illustration shows the candles arranged on a table made of a music stand.
Candles, cigars, or pencils may be used, but for the purpose of this description the former will be used. The candles are of different colors but of the same size and weight. The manipulation is as follows:
Exhibit a tube of brass, cardboard, or other suitable material, just large enough to contain a candle. Then retire from the room, leaving the tube on the table while one of the spectators selects one of the candles and places it into the tube, covering the end of the latter securely with a small cap. The other candles are hidden before the performer is permitted to return. The trick is to announce the color of the candle contained in the box by merely passing the hand over it several times. The box and candle are passed out for inspection and will bear it if properly prepared.
The secret of the trick is this: The first candle, for example, the white one, is unprepared. The second, a blue one, has concealed in it, ¹⁄₂ in. from the top, a small piece of magnetized steel. The third candle, a red one, has a similar bar concealed at the middle; the fourth, a magnetized bar ¹⁄₂ in. from the bottom, and the fifth candle has the bar at a point halfway between the middle and the bottom. The candles are made of wood and the magnets may readily be imbedded in them. They are made of two pieces glued together like a pencil.
The performer hides a small compass in his palm. It is held in place by a wire clip, gripped between the second and third fingers near the knuckles. A wave of the hand over the tube containing a candle will affect the compass if any candle other than the white one is used. Its needle will vibrate when approaching the concealed magnet, and by determining quickly the position of the magnet, the color may be announced.
Those who offer guesses usually insist that some electrical device is used.
Desk Slide in Top of Drawer
Placing a lock lid in the top of a desk drawer provided a writing board and also gave privacy to the drawer, as shown in the sketch.
A lady’s desk in a nicely furnished room was used for the telephone and as the desk was often locked there was no place on which to rest the instrument or to take notes. The drawer lid, locked with a chest lock, proved effective. The lid may be moved back so as to expose the contents of the drawer. It was finished to match the desk.--Contributed by Victor Labadie, Dallas, Tex.
Repairing a Broken Fly-Screen Frame
An old broken fly-screen frame was made quite rigid with the use of metal braces, cut as shown and fastened with nails to each corner. The brace was cut from sheet metal, and the edges A and B were cut and bent at right angles to the main part, with their extreme edges bent over the frame. These were sufficient to make the frame as rigid as a new one.
Raising the Temperature of a Room
The temperature of a room may apparently be raised several degrees with the same expenditure of heat, and greater comfort will result by the application of a simple principle. In summer a moist day seems warmer than a dry one though the thermometer registers the same. By permitting steam to escape from a radiator or keeping a kettle boiling on the stove, the air is moistened and feels warmer.
A Carbon Electric Water Heater
The water heater illustrated is for use on a 110-volt circuit without added resistance. It consists of two electrodes which are immersed directly in the water; and while it is not as artistic as the usual nickelplated heater, it is usually more economical and has the distinct advantage that it cannot be burnt out. It may be made as rapid in action as desired, is inexpensive and very convenient where water is required for experimental or industrial purposes.
For the electrodes, procure two ¹⁄₂-in. uncoppered carbons, and drill a hole in the top of each of these so that feed wires can be attached. The handle is shaped from a piece of hard wood. The lower end is hollowed out half round at either side, so that the carbons will fit in snugly. Four small holes are then drilled through from side to side for binding wires, and a large hole is made in the center for the feed wires. Two smaller branch holes are then drilled to join the center hole, so that the double feed cord may be branched out to reach both electrodes. The outer edge of the handle is neatly rounded off and boiled in paraffin so as to render it impervious to moisture.
Remove sufficient insulation from the feed cord to make a good connection with the carbons. Fish the wire through the handle from the upper end. Pull each of the two ends pretty well through, so that they can be securely threaded into the holes previously made in the carbons. Have the latter quite hot and run in as much solder as possible, forcing it in with the end of a match as it becomes plastic. Remove all traces of the flux, and paint the connection with some melted pitch, taken from the top of a discarded dry cell. The feed cord may then be pulled up tightly, which will draw the carbons in place. They are then bound by threading through several strands of copper wire. If the holes in the wood are slightly countersunk, and two small grooves filed around each carbon at the right places to let the holding wires in, the binding feature may be disposed of very neatly.
In some localities the water is so free from all mineral salts that it will not carry the current freely, which means that the electrodes must be placed closer together, or else a small pinch of common salt may be added to the water. Although, in sterilizing instruments, boiling eggs, or something of that sort, this would be of no advantage, the salt greatly hastens the boiling.
Preventing Looseness of Drawer Handles
Drawer handles frequently become loosened and sometimes cause further annoyance by falling to the floor or becoming lost, because the bolt fastening, as shown in the sketch, is not secure. This may be avoided by inserting a rubber band between the head of the bolt and the drawer front. When the knob is drawn up tightly the pressure of the rubber band prevents it from becoming loosened.--Contributed by O. F. Germaine, Akron, Ohio.
An Electrical Dancer
The modification of the well-known mechanical dancer shown in the illustration is based on the principle of the electric bell. While the amusing antics of the mechanical dancer are controlled by the hand, the manikin shown is actuated by the electromagnet.
The mechanism is contained in a box. It consists of an electromagnet with a soft-iron armature carried by a spring. A wire from the battery goes to the magnet. The other terminal of the magnet connects with the armature spring at L1. The spring is bent at a right angle at its other end, L2, and carries a platform, L3, strengthened by a smaller disk underneath. The dancer performs upon this platform.
A contact spring, S, is carried by the armature spring. A contact screw, C, is adjustable in its contact with the spring S. A wire runs from the contact screw to the binding post B, to which the other battery wire is connected.
The current keeps the platform in constant vibration, causing the dancer to “dance.” By means of the screw C, the action of the current may be varied, and the “dancing” will vary correspondingly.
The figure is made of wood with very loose joints and is suspended so that the feet barely touch the platform.--Contributed by Edward C. Connelly, Wilkesbarre, Pa.
Child’s Swing Built of Pipes in Narrow Space
A narrow space between two city houses was used to erect a swing, as detailed in the illustration. A piece of 2-in. iron pipe, A, was cut 1 ft. longer than the space between the walls. Two pieces of 2¹⁄₂-in. pipe and a 2¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₄-in. tee, as shown in the detail, was slipped over the 2-in. pipe, which was built into the walls. A 1¹⁄₄-in. pipe, B, 20 ft. long, bent as shown, was joined to the tee, and a seat, C, was attached. The construction of the seat is shown in detail, being fixed to the wooden part with washers, nuts, and a threaded nipple, D. A cushion and a removable safety bar, E, were also features. This swing is safer than one of rope, and will stand much greater wear.--James N. Reed, San Francisco, Calif.
Door Bumpers Raise Height of Chair
Four wooden door bumpers, of the rubber-tipped knob type, fastened to the lower ends of the legs of one of the kitchen chairs, make an almost indispensable high chair, which will bring the table work to a more comfortable height than the ordinary chair does. The young child also will appreciate such a chair at the dining table. When it is no longer needed, the knobs can be unscrewed quickly.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.
A Homemade Hawaiian Ukulele
BY S. H. SAMUELS
The one-string banjo, the cigar-box guitar, and similar vaudeville favorites are giving way to the tantalizing ukulele, and the home mechanic, to be up to date in his musical craftsmanship, must fall in line. The size of this instrument makes it especially suited to the cigar-box type of body construction, as detailed in the several sketches and shown in the photograph reproduced. This neat ukulele was made at a cost of 30 cents, by careful selection of materials from the shop scrap stock.
A cigar box of good-quality Spanish cedar, about 2¹⁄₂ by 6 by 9 in., as shown in Fig. 1, is used for the body. Remove the paper carefully, so as not to mar the surface, soaking it if necessary. Take it apart, and if the nail holes are too numerous, or broken out, trim off the edges. Fit the parts of the body together, as shown in Fig. 2, the top and bottom pieces resting against the side and end pieces, and the latter between the sides. Cut the 2¹⁄₂-in. hole in the top piece, as shown, 3³⁄₄ in. from the neck end. To reinforce the body make strips A, ¹⁄₄ in. square, and fit them to be glued into the corners at the top and bottom. Make strips B, ¹⁄₄ by ⁵⁄₈ by 4¹⁄₂ in., and glue them under the top and on the bottom as indicated in Fig. 2. The final assembling and gluing of these parts, using animal glue, should be done after the bridge C is in place, and the other parts are made. The bridge is of hard wood hollowed underneath the notched edge, as detailed, and is fitted with a metal string contact.
Spanish cedar or mahogany is suitable for the neck, detailed in Fig. 3. A single piece is best, but the extension for the pegs and the wider end at the body may be joined and glued to the main portion of the neck. Dowels should then be used to reinforce the joints. The outline of the parts of the neck are shown in detail in Fig. 3. In the sectional view at the right, the shape of the neck at the thinnest and thickest parts is shown by the two upper curved, dotted lines. The nut D is made of mahogany, walnut, or other hard wood, the grain extending lengthwise, and the notches for the strings spaced as shown.
The making and spacing of the frets must be done very carefully. They are of aluminum, brass and other metals being suitable also. Make the frets ¹⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₁₆ in. and cut grooves ¹⁄₈ in. deep for them. The spacing of the frets is determined as follows, a standard practice: The distance from the metal string-contact on the bridge to the nut should be measured carefully. The first fret, near the head, is ¹⁄₁₈ of this distance from the nut, the total length being in this instance, 13 in. The second fret is set ¹⁄₁₈ the distance from the first fret to the bridge; the third, ¹⁄₁₈ from the second fret to the bridge, etc. The frets must fit tightly in the grooves, requiring no special fastening. The tuning pegs may be bought or made.
In assembling the parts, fasten the end of the body to the neck, with glue, reinforced by screws. Set its upper edge parallel with the fingerboard, and so that the latter is flush with the top of the body, when fitted to it. Assemble the body, without the top, gluing it to the end, fixed to the neck. When this portion is thoroughly dried, fit the top into place finally, and glue it. The whole construction is then cleaned, sandpapered, stained, and shellacked or varnished. The stringing of the instrument is simple, and the strings may be purchased in sets.
Homemade Suitcase Extension
A handy addition to the traveler’s equipment is a suitcase extension that may be removed when not in use, and folded compactly, inside of the suitcase if desired. This latter feature is provided for by arranging the extension to be folded vertically at the middle. Heavy leather, cloth board covered with strong linen, or canvas of a suitable color may be used. If cloth board is used it should be cut the size of the side of the suitcase, and smaller sections hinged to it at the folds. The leather need not be reinforced if it is fairly strong. Cut the leather at A, B, C, and D, and arrange it to be folded on the dotted lines. Rivet guides for the straps, as at E. Fit the corners with buttons or snaps F, which are locked in position when the extension is in use. The device slides over the suitcase and may be drawn tightly against it when empty.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
Putty Deadens Glossy Surfaces in Photography
Attempts to make “close-up” photographs of machinery, or highly polished objects, often fail because the reflection of light upon the bright surfaces causes a blur in the photograph. Some photographers use putty to deaden the gloss. A lump of putty is rubbed over the surface gently where a brilliant reflection is visible, or the entire surface is rubbed so that it presents an even, dead finish on the ground glass of the camera, when focusing.--Ralph W. Tillotson, Erie, Pennsylvania.
Coop for Sitting Hens
When several hens are to hatch out settings at the same time, considerable space can be saved and much convenience afforded by making a coop as shown in the illustration. It consists of an outer frame of boards, 1 ft. wide and 6 ft. long, or as long as desired for the runway. The frame is divided into compartments by boards extending from end to end, each compartment being for one hen. The frame is placed on level ground and staked in place. At opposite ends of each compartment is a hinged cover. The intervening space is covered with wire netting, with shelter boards placed loosely over it. Under one of the hinged covers the nest should be placed on the ground, and at the opposite end food and water are provided. Each hen has plenty of space to exercise in, and must at least get up for food and water. The individual covers permit separate examination of the eggs, or feeding of the hens.--F. W. Buerstatte, Pullman, Wash.
Smoking of Lamp Overcome by Increasing Draft
While sitting in a room around a lamp, a group of workmen discussed the probable causes for the smoking of an oil lamp. By way of experiment, holes were punched in the perforated part of the burner, increasing the draft through the glass chimney. It was then possible to turn the light up much higher, without the usual deposit of smoke. As a result of this, several other troublesome lamps were soon remedied.--J. E. McCormack, Haliburton, Ontario, Can.
Pencil Sharpener Made of Wafer Razor Blade
This tool combines a knife and a file in one handle, of wood, 7 in. long. The knife is a single-edged safety-razor blade, clamped to the handle by two round-head screws. A space, ¹⁄₈ in. deep, under the blade is allowed for chips, and a piece of a fine file is recessed into the other end of the handle. To use this sharpener, hold it as a pocketknife is ordinarily held in whittling. The blade will keep its edge for a considerable time.--Ralph W. Hills, Madison, Wisconsin.
Device for Sharpening Fiber Phonograph Needles
A practical sharpener for fiber phonograph needles may be made as follows: A lever handle, A, is cut from heavy sheet metal. A safety-razor blade, B, is bolted to it, and the metal flap bent over as indicated. A block, C, is cut so that the upper face makes an angle of 30° with the base, is faced with a metal strip, E. A triangular groove is cut or filed for the needle G. The lever is hinged, as shown, by means of a screw. A base, D, may be added. To operate the sharpener, place a needle in the groove so that a very small portion of the playing end extends past the face of E, and shear off the end.--C. M. Hall, St. Louis, Missouri.
Canoe or Boat Stored in Pulley Slings
A canoe, or small boat, which is taken from the water when not in use, suffers damage if it is left unprotected in the open. A practical method of storing it so that it can be taken out quickly is to suspend it from the roof structure of a small shed, or a garage, by means of slings. The latter are made of double thicknesses of strong canvas, and are provided with rings where they join to the lower pulleys of the hoisting rope and tackle. The cushions, paddles, etc., may be left in the canoe.--Robert W. Jamison, Mitchell, S. D.
Clod Rake Protects Corn in Cultivating
Small corn is often injured by lumps of dirt being thrown on it when cultivating. If these are not removed the corn may grow to one side or may lie flat on the ground. In order that I need not get off the cultivator to remove such lumps, I made a rake out of an old fork. The tines were heated and bent, as shown. An iron rod may be used for the handle, but the wooden one is light and easy to hold.
Curious Support for Call Bell
Two highly polished horns fitted into a polished wooden base and banded with silver form the support for a call bell shown in the illustration. A tapper, which rests beside the stand, was made of a deer hoof.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Ordinary Pen Converted into Fountain Pen
An ordinary penholder and pen point may be easily converted into a fountain pen, with the aid of a brass paper clip of the kind shown. The cap is pried off and the prongs straightened. One of the prongs is cut to suitable length, and the end bent as indicated. It is then inserted in the penholder, and adjusted to ¹⁄₈ in. from the end of the pen point. The ink is placed between the bent clip and pen point, from where it feeds evenly as needed. This kink is helpful when using the heavier drawing inks, as well as with writing inks.--R. L. Templin, Champaign, Ill.
Screwdriver Made from Buttonhook
Losing a sewing-machine screwdriver, I easily made another by cutting off the hook end of a buttonhook with a chisel. The cut end was placed upon a piece of iron and, with a hammer, formed into a screwdriver in a few minutes. The rounded top of the buttonhook makes it convenient to handle or hang up.--E. M Bierwagen, South Bend, Ind.
Guarding a Camp Chest against Theft
Unless a camp chest is secured to the ground so that it is difficult for marauders to carry it away it cannot be left at unguarded camps without some danger of theft. By fitting the chest, A over stakes, B set into the ground with crosspieces, D a secure fastening is provided. Cleats, C, with holes for lag screws, are fitted into the bottom of the chest, making it easy to remove the fastening when desired. The cleats are kept in the bottom of the chest when not in use.--K. A. Thompson, Lexington, Va.
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¶By carefully piercing the small end of an eggshell with a large needle, a funnel for filling very small bottles is provided.
A Toy Horse That Walks
This toy, amusing for the youngsters, and their elders as well, will repay one for the making of it. Use a cigar box for the carriage, making it about 10 in. high, and shape it in the design shown. Nail a piece of wood, ¹⁄₈ by 2 by 4 in. wide, on each side of the carriage, and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes in them for the axle. For the horse, take a piece of wood, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 6 in. long, and draw an outline of the head, neck, and body. Cut this out and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes where the legs are attached.
Cut the legs as shown, about 3¹⁄₂ in. long. Attach them with small bolts, or rivets, allowing space to move freely. The wheels are made of pine, ¹⁄₂ in. thick and 3 in. in diameter. The axle is made of ³⁄₁₆-in. wire bent to the shape indicated, ¹⁄₂ in. at each offset. Fit the wheels on the axle tightly, so as not to turn on it, the axle turning in the pieces nailed to the sides of the carriage. The horse is attached to the top of the carriage by a strip of wood. A 3-ft. wooden handle is attached to the back of carriage to guide it. Wires are attached to the legs, connecting with the offsets in the axle.--Charles Claude Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.
Safeguarding Contents of Unsealed Envelopes
The gummed flaps on envelopes for first-class mail are generally short, and for sending photographs or second-class matter these short flaps do not stay tucked in. The solution is to lengthen the flap, by pasting on a sheet of paper, using the gum thereon.--G. N. Neary, New York, N. Y.
Revolving Outdoor Lunch Table
Picnic parties on one of the Maine lakes make much use of a large table, having a revolving top, so that the lunch may be placed on the center portion and the persons seated around the board may help themselves handily. The stationary top is supported on several cross braces of 2 by 4 in. stuff, and the revolving top, pivoted at the center, is carried on wooden roller bearings, fixed near its circumference. The lower portion of the table is in the form of cupboards which are padlocked, providing storage space for equipment left for the use of picnickers. The table is set under a pergola, which provides shade. Benches, curved to fit the table, may be used conveniently with it. A small table of this type is practical as a children’s play table, providing convenient storage space for toys and other articles.--E. E. Dickson, Holyoke, Mass.
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¶When, in papering a bathroom with the same tiled paper on sides and ceiling, the paper does not match in the ceiling corners, place a strip of quarter-round there, and color it to suit the paper.
A Penny-in-the-Slot Newspaper Stand
A silent, yet very successful “newsboy” is shown in the photograph reproduced. Each rack holds one of the daily newspapers. The passer-by puts a penny in the slot and selects his paper. The penny falls down a chute, striking a bell, as evidence that the customer has paid. Hundreds of papers are sold from this rack each day without the aid of the newsboy’s shouts. The slanting shelves make it unnecessary to provide weights for the papers.--M. F. Hall, St. Louis, Mo.
Pedals for Typewriter Space and Shift Keys Increase Speed
By attaching pedals to the space key and shift key I increased my typewriting speed about 20 words a minute. I made two pedals fast to the typewriter desk, as shown, then ran stiff steel wires up to the keys, connecting the latter to the wire with rubber bands. The pedals are adjusted so that a light tap operates them. If a light typewriter is used, it should be fixed to the desk. The wires can be unhooked quickly from the typewriter, and suspended on hooks under the edge of the desk.--W. J. M., Manila, P. I.
Timing Pointer on Watch Crystal
Working in a photo-print finishing plant where often several jobs need attention and accurate timing, all at the same time, I find a pointer on my watch crystal a great help. The crystal was loose enough to permit turning it. I glued a three-cornered piece of black paper to the under side of the crystal at the edge. When a batch of prints is placed in a bath, the pointer is set 15 minutes ahead of the minute hand. When the latter reaches the pointer, it reminds me to remove the prints. After placing a batch of films in the developing tank, I set the pointer ahead of the minute hand the required time for developing, placing the watch in view, to see readily when the time is up.--A. J. Viken, Waterloo, Iowa.
Portable Tent Made from an Umbrella and Paper Muslin
Picnickers desiring to go in bathing are often handicapped by the lack of a convenient place to change clothes. An umbrella and some paper muslin provides a light portable tent that is practical and inexpensive for such uses. Cut the dark paper muslin into as many 9-ft. lengths as there are sections of the umbrella. Sew these strips together. At each seam tie a string about a yard long and a stout cord 15 ft. long to the handle to hold up the tent. For use, open the umbrella, invert it, and to each rib tie one of the strings. Then tie one end of the cord to the handle of the umbrella and suspend it from a tree or other support as shown, weighting or tying down the other end.--Mabel Hubbard Birch, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Memorandum List for Camping and Outing Trips
Persons who occasionally take an outing or go camping will find a written list of articles needed on the trip a great saving of time and mental energy. This list should be made while making preparations, and again read shortly before the departure. It may be kept from year to year, and items added or withdrawn, as experience teaches. Classification is desirable, under heads such as camping gear, cooking utensils, tableware, foods, supplies, etc. Each member of a party can agree to furnish certain articles, avoiding duplication. Anyone who has gone on outings and left behind some much-needed article, will readily realize the help such a list can be, and by its use the amateur may profit from the experience of others.
A Homemade Trouble Lamp
By attaching a handle for carrying, and making suitable connections, a portable trouble light was made of a dry battery. A strip of iron was bent to the shape shown, for the handle, and fixed to the binding post on the carbon. A bell from an alarm clock was drilled and tapped to fit a small light bulb, and fastened at the zinc post. The upper edge of the bell was bolted to the extension of the handle, as shown, leather washers insulating it. A small switch, riveted loosely to the iron strip, controls the light.--Carl A. Haberlein, McPherson, Kan.
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¶Books to be stacked or carried should be arranged with the backs on alternate sides.
Pulley and Weight Exerciser Homemade in the Orient
Finding it difficult to obtain materials for the making of a gymnastic exerciser, I made one with makeshift parts, typical of this locality. Later I was able to get the necessary hardware and made an exerciser, as shown in Fig. 1, quite similar to those manufactured commercially. The original arrangement is shown in Fig. 2. I mounted a bamboo rod on two iron brackets fastened to the wall. Small pegs provided guides for the ropes, and the smooth surface of the bamboo caused little wear. Other bamboo rods were used for the handle and to support the weights. These were made by filling cans with sand, and tying them with cords. This arrangement was quite practical, but did not give the desired freedom of movement.--M. A. Laner, Hongkong, China.
Scoop on Painter’s Knife Catches Scrapings
By fitting a sheet-metal scoop to a painter’s putty knife or wall scraper, much of the dirt and refuse resulting is caught in the receptacle instead of falling to the floor and being tracked into other rooms. The scoop is a rectangular can, and is fastened into place by small bolts fitted through the scraper.
Gas-Hose Bracket for Ironing or Shop Use
In a home where it was customary to use an overhead gas fixture for the attachment of the gas iron for ironing clothes, it was found that mantles were frequently broken by the resulting jar. By making a bracket for the gas hose, which is fastened to the end of the ironing board or to the edge of the table, this trouble was remedied. The new arrangement gave much greater freedom in the use of the iron. The bracket can be removed quickly and fitted to a bench for use in the shop.--M. J. F. Schramm, Ridgewood, N. Y.
Homemade Guide for Photo and Paper Trimmer
Having an old but still serviceable photograph trimmer, with which it was difficult to trim prints uniformly and quickly, I made a guide for this purpose and fitted it to the board, as shown. The guide is a strip of wood, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, and is fastened to the cleat with a spring hinge, mounted on a block. Although it is not transparent, like the best commercial devices of this kind, it gives good service.--R. B. Manck, Nazareth, Pa.
Joining Broken Liquid Column in Thermometer
To reunite the particles of mercury or other liquid, which have become separated in a thermometer, raise it to the level of the extended arm, the bulb outward, and jolt the tube with a quick downward stroke. Repeat this, not too vigorously, until the liquid returns to its proper position.
Umbrella Used as a Clothes Drier
A clothes drier that can be carried in a purse or a vest pocket will appeal to travelers, and persons living in small quarters. An umbrella, four yards of strong wrapping twine, and several small brass rings are required. Knot the rings into the twine at intervals, measuring the distance between the rib points of the umbrella, and hook the twine to the points by the rings, as shown, providing considerable drying space for small articles. Hook the umbrella handle over a suitable support, or tie it carefully to the supporting pipe of a light fixture in the middle of the room, ready for the articles to be dried. The twine may also be wrapped around the points, but it is better to carry a line with rings attached.
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¶By reversing the handle on a dust brush which has been worn near the point, additional wear may be obtained.
Metal Band Stiffens Brush
In painting, and other work where a brush is used, it is often desirable to stiffen the bristles. This may be done readily by fixing a band of sheet metal over the brush, to slide tightly. By adjusting it, the length and stiffness of the part of the bristles used may be controlled.
Rubber Band Prevents Tangling of Telephone Cord
It is exasperating to pick up the telephone receiver to answer a call and find the cord twisted or wound around the telephone standard. A long receiver cord will not tangle if a rubber band is used to support it, as shown in the sketch. The elastics permits considerable play, and if the fullest extension of the cord is desired, it may be supported on several linked rubber bands, on the left of the standard.--K. M. Coggeshall, Webster Groves, Mo.
Improvised Trousers Hanger in Train Berth
The berth of a sleeping car is usually provided with a coat hanger, but if there is a rod on it for trousers, there is nothing to keep them from slipping off. By removing two of the curtain hooks, hanging the trousers over the curtain pole, and replacing the hooks over the trousers, a satisfactory hanger is obtained, which will not permit them to slip down no matter how rough the road.
Headrest for Porch Swing
Here is a “peach” of a homemade porch swing--a shock-absorbing species. The top board is attached with springy hinges, and affords an ideal headrest. It also tends to prevent children from climbing over the back.--H. W. Hart, St. Paul, Minn.
Fruit-Picking Pole with Gravity Delivery Chute
For picking fruit without bruising it, in the home garden, or for exhibition purposes, the fruit-picking pole shown in the sketch is useful. A wire ring is fixed to the top of the pole, and the bag, suspended from it, is fastened to the pole at intervals. The fruit is removed by means of the ring and drops to the bottom of the chute, which is held closed by the hand. For picking large quantities of fruit a receptacle is carried by the picker.--Mrs. Ella L. Lamb. Mason, Michigan.
A Set of Electric Chimes
A set of electric dinner chimes is a welcome and useful addition to many households, and may be made at a trifling cost by the average person handy with tools. The completed article is shown in Fig. 1, the details in Fig. 2, and the wiring diagram in Fig. 3. The woodwork is of ¹⁄₂-in. stock. The back A, Fig. 2, is 1¹⁄₂ in., by 9³⁄₄ in. long. The ends may be shaped to suit the builder’s fancy. The shelf B is 4 in. square, and is fastened to the back piece 2¹⁄₄ in. from the upper end. It supports the magnets C, which are made on cores, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter and ³⁄₄ in. long, with ends ¹⁄₁₆ in. by 1 in. in diameter. The spools are wound full of No. 28 silk-covered copper magnet wire. These coils mounted on the shelf by means brass straps D. Four magnets are used, the forward one being omitted in Fig. 2.
The supports E, for the tubes, consist of ¹⁄₂-in. lengths of ¹⁄₄-in. square brass rod. One end of the rod is drilled and tapped for an 8-32 screw which holds the support in place. Drill a small hole, ¹⁄₄ in. from the end, for the pin G, made of steel wire. The tapper H is made from a 4¹⁄₂-in. length of stiff iron wire; 1¹⁄₄ in. from one end a ³⁄₈-in. cube of iron, J, is soldered, the wire passing through it. The ends of the wire are fitted with balls as shown. A nickeled gong, K, covers the four magnets. The end of the tapper is passed through the hole in the gong and the ball riveted into place.
Four ³⁄₄-in. diameter tubes are used, respectively 3, 4, 5, and 6 in. long. When the apparatus is assembled as shown, and one of the magnets is energized, the latter will draw the iron cube J toward it, and the tapper will strike one of the tubes.
To control the current supplying the magnets, four small push buttons mounted on a wooden base are used. They are wired up with the battery and coils, as shown in Fig. 3. A wire from each of the coils runs directly to one terminal of the battery, the other wire from each coil being connected to a separate push button. The other sides of the push buttons are connected to the battery. By this means any of the magnets may be energized at will, the coils and corresponding push buttons being marked L and M, etc., alphabetically.
Tabs for Turning Sheet Music Quickly
Musicians sometimes have trouble in turning over sheet music quickly. Here is a simple way to turn the leaves quickly and easily: Paste a tab on the edge of each sheet, as shown. The first sheet is tagged at the top, the second in the middle, and the last sheet at the bottom, like a letter file. Where there are many sheets, it is easy to grasp the upper tab, on each successive sheet.--M. W. Meier, Chicago, Ill.
A Springy Hammock Support Made of Boughs
In many camping places, balsam branches, or moss, are available for improvising mattresses. Used in connection with a hammock, or a bed made on the spot, such a mattress substitute provides a comfort that adds to the joys of camping. A camp hammock, or bed of this kind, is shown.
To make it, cut four 6-ft. poles, of nearly the same weight and 1 in. in diameter at the small end. These saplings should have a fork about 2¹⁄₂ ft. from the lower ends, as resting places for the crossbars, as shown. Then cut two poles, 2 in. in diameter and 3¹⁄₂ ft. long, and two smaller poles, 3 ft. long. Also cut two forked poles, 4¹⁄₂ ft. long, for the diagonal braces. Place two of the long poles crossing each other, as shown, 1 ft. from the ground. Set up the second pair similarly. Fix the crossbars into place, in the crotches, the ends of the crotch branches being fastened under the opposite crossbar. The end bars are fixed to the crossed poles by means of short rope loops. The mattress is placed on springy poles, 7 ft. long and 2 in. apart, alternating thick and thin ends. The moss is laid over the poles, and the balsam branches spread on thickly. Blankets may be used as a cover.--J. S. Zerbe, Coytesville, N. J.
A Revolving Card, or Ticket, Holder
A holder which may be ornamented and trimmed with leather or other materials, was made of several disks of wood, joined at the center by a thumbscrew, and provided a neat place for calling cards, post cards, etc. The block A, which fits against the wall, is ³⁄₈ in. thick and 2 in. in diameter. The disk C is ¹⁄₄ by 7 in., the disk D, 6 in., and the metal disk E, 6 in. in diameter. The edge of the metal disk, which may be of ornamented or etched brass, or copper, is curled forward as shown. The thumbscrew B holds the disks together and fastens them to the wall.--James E. Noble, Portsmouth, Ontario, Can.
Testing Direct Current Polarity with Litmus Paper
Litmus paper laid on glass, and moistened with a weak solution of sodium sulphate can be used to test the polarity of a direct current. If the two conductors are touched on the moistened paper, the latter will turn red at the positive, and blue at the negative conductor.
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¶A berry stemmer made of a small pair of tweezers is useful for removing superfluous buds from garden flowering plants.
An Automatic Fishhook
The hook A is made of tempered brass or steel wire of a gauge sufficient for the size of the fish to be caught. A wire of No. 18 gauge is about right for ordinary fishing, with a No. 20 or 22 gauge for the trigger. Hooks, C C, can be soldered on the points to angle for larger fish. Barbs are not required for smaller fish.
Such a hook will catch the fish, even if they only nibble, and is especially good for fishing through the ice. Use a bob and a pole, and bait the short hook with a minnow or worm. The extreme length of a hook for catching a 1-lb. fish should be 3 in. Fasten the line as shown at B.--Contributed by Robert C. Knox, Waycross, Ga.
Temporary Binder for Magazines
The sketch illustrates an inexpensive temporary binder for periodicals, magazines, newspapers, etc. It consists of four parts, namely, two sheets of cardboard, A, the size of the magazine to be bound, and two pieces of linen or tape, B. A slot is cut in each corner of the cardboards about 1 in. from the edge. The tape is run through these slots in the manner shown.
The magazine numbers, as they are received, are placed on the back cardboard, building them up consecutively as they come. The ends of the tape are tied to hold them together. The backbone is open and the contents are readily seen.
The sliding of the tape in the slots provides a means of holding from one to as many copies as may be desired, and they are kept in good condition until a complete volume is compiled, when a more permanent binder can be made.
Instead of tape a leather strap can be used with a buckle. The tapes can be fastened to one of the cardboards, allowing one end only to be movable.
Combination Workshop Seat
A most practical and satisfactory way of using a stool in a small workshop is shown in the illustration. In much of my small work at the bench I find it an advantage to sit, and for that purpose I purchased a small stool. My lathe is operated by a geared foot motor provided with two foot levers which may be operated singly in a standing position or both at a time when sitting. The attachment shown converts the stool, the seat of which is too low except for bench work, into a comfortable and neat seat for working at a lathe. The sketch is self-explanatory.
A plate with a setscrew is mounted under the center of the stool seat, through which a hole is bored for the seat post. Two pieces of iron pipe, an elbow and an old bicycle saddle constitute the remaining parts of the device. Provision is made for adjustment as to height, and the position of the saddle may be changed in the ordinary way by using a wrench on the part which grips the horizontal length of pipe, just the same as the seat on a bicycle-seat post is adjusted.
Substitute for Rivets in Couches
The rivets in a couch come loose and work out quite often, leaving it loose and wobbly. To make rivets fit properly by hammering them into place is almost impossible and to repair the couch with stove bolts makes an unsightly job. A very good repair and one that will make a couch rigid and strong again is by the use of ordinary brass binding posts from old dry-battery cells instead of rivets. These can be easily placed without tools.--Contributed by G. H. Clemmons, Storm Lake, Iowa.
A Nonbinding Tool-Chest Slide Tray
The slide trays of a tool chest, especially if they are wider than they are deep, are apt to bind. To remedy this trouble, I procured four ordinary thread spools and inserted them in openings cut for them in the corners of the tray. Holes were bored through the corners for pins to hold the spools in place.--Contributed by J. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Indiana.
A Brooder
A very effective brooder can be made of an old feather duster hung in a box so that the tips of the feathers will come close to the bottom. The brooder consists of a wood box about 1 ft. high. The cover is removed and a hole cut in the center to receive the shank of the duster after cutting its handle off. This makes an excellent substitute for the feathers of the hen. Some finely cut hay, or sand, is placed beneath so as to bring the level up sufficiently for the chicks to run among the feathers. For ventilation, bore some holes in the sides of the box near the top and cut a small opening for an entrance. For convenience in cleaning, the cover should be hinged.--Contributed by Wm. T. Miller, Roslindale, Mass.
How to Make a Fancy Buttonhook
Procure a piece of ¹⁄₄-in. round steel, about 5 in. long, and file one end of it square for about one-third of the length, so that the diagonal of the square part is less than the diameter of the rod. Cut about 8 washers each, of brass and iron, from material, ¹⁄₈-in. thick. Make the hole in the washers square to fit the square on the rod. The washers can be cut out roughly on the outside, but they must be larger than the diameter of the rod. Place the brass and iron washers alternately on the rod, beginning with a brass and finishing with an iron washer, which latter is held in place by riveting the end of the rod on it.
The washers are then filed round, and the remaining end of the rod is tapered. The pointed end is bent into a hook. The whole length is then polished and buffed.--Contributed by H. W. Hankin, Trail, Can.
Hinge Lock for Horizontal Sliding Windows
A simple catch for fixing windows of the horizontal sliding type so that it is difficult to pry them open is shown in the sketch. It is made of an old hinge, one end of which is sharpened so as to engage the surface of the frame on which the sash slides. When not in use the hinge is folded up. It can be used to set the window at various points when it is desired to have it partly open.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis, Md.
Repairing a Brass Candlestick
A brass candlestick brought to me for repairs had lost a crownlike bit of ornamentation once fitting on the top of the grease cup. To make a finish at this point I soldered therein a heavy brass nose ring. The soldering being concealed on the under portion, the effect was very good, and strength was added to the thin brass cup, preventing possible denting of the edge.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Hand Guards for Motorcyclists
When riding my motorcycle in cool weather, my hands became very cold, and in order to overcome this, I had guards, like that shown in the sketch, made of oilcloth. A piece, tapered from 10 in. at one end to 4¹⁄₂ in. at the other, and 12 in. long, was formed into a cone, the smaller end being fitted, with an elastic band, over the handlebar. The guards keep the hands comfortable without gloves in cool weather, and, with gloves, are of great service in the winter.--George Westaway, Davenport, Ia.
Bicycle-Handle Grip on Rake Handle
By fitting a bicycle handle to the end of a rake handle a grip is provided that is comfortable in the hand when considerable raking is to be done. The sketch shows the grip attached. Several small brads were nailed through the handle and countersunk so as not to injure the hand. This prevented the grip from becoming loosened easily.
Removal Marker for Card Index
A marker which is adapted for use in files of various sizes is shown in the illustration. It may be made easily of medium-weight cardboard, cut to the shape shown in the diagram below and bent as indicated. The marker is inserted at a point in the index from which a card or other filed material has been removed. It is of such a size that, when in use, the tab projects only enough to be recognized, and the marker may be left in the drawer so as to be convenient for future use. The sketch shows the marker partly withdrawn. The small projections shown in the diagram are important in that they act as springs when the marker is in use.--John B. Wade, Wellington, Kan.
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¶Gaskets cut from old inner tubes are satisfactory for water connections.
Driving Nails to Prevent Splitting
A nail driven so that it crosses the grain, as shown in the sketch, is not likely to split the board through which it passes. The splitting often results when the nail is driven straight. The nail should be started at different angles according to the grain of the wood.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
Feeding Geese in a Poultry Yard
Having four geese in a yard with chickens, I found that the chickens would not allow the geese to pick up the food. To feed the geese I placed the corn in the bottom of a pan and filled it with water. The geese will easily pick up the corn from under the water, where the chickens would not attempt to touch it.--Contributed by Walter L. Kaufmann, Santa Ana, Cal.
Homemade Calipers
A good pair of calipers can be easily and quickly made by anyone in the following manner: Procure a piece of spring wire, about 15 in. long, and bend it as shown in the sketch, allowing the ends to point inward or outward as the style demands. A loop of heavy wire is fastened around the center so that it can be slid back and forth along the wire. This serves the purpose of an adjuster.--Contributed by Stanley Radcliffe, Laurel, Md.
Starting Garden Plants
In starting small plants to get them hardy and ready to plant in the early spring provide separate receptacles of paper, then the plant can be set out without trouble and it will grow as if it had never been moved. Procure some heavy paper and make the cups as shown in the sketch.
The paper is cut into squares, the size depending on the plant, and each square is folded on the dotted line AB. This forms a triangle of a double thickness. The next fold is made on the line CD, bringing the point E over to F. Then the paper is folded over on the line FG, bringing the point H over to C. This will leave a double-pointed end at J. The parts of this point are separated and folded down on the sides which form the cup as shown.
These cups are filled with earth and set into earth placed in a box. The seeds are planted within the cups. When it comes time for transplanting, the cup with the plant is lifted out and set in the garden without damage to the plant roots. The paper soon rots away and gives no trouble to the growing plant.
Gas Stove for the Dining Table
The stove is made of one piece of No. 6 gauge brass wire and a 6-in. length of ¹⁄₂-in. gas pipe, A. Drill six ¹⁄₁₆-in. holes in the side of the pipe, spacing them evenly. Turn a cap on one end of the pipe and fit a hose cock on the other. Start with the ends of the wire and make one turn around the pipe, then make loops at both sides, to serve as feet, and shoulders, on which to set the bread in making toast. From this point, where the wires come together, twist them for a length of 6 in. They are then spread and formed into a circle about 4 in. in diameter. The other side, or upright, is made in the same manner as making the first part.
A piece of sheet metal, B, is cut to fit the space between the wires, allowing projections at the upper and lower outside edges for bending around the upright twisted wires. The entire stove can be nickelplated if desired. It can be used in the same manner as an electric stove and for the same purposes where a home is supplied only with gas.--Contributed by E. L. Douthett, Kansas City, Mo.
Castings without Patterns
The sketch shows a method of making small castings that I have used for several years and the castings so produced are strong and very durable, almost equal to the ordinary casting. The idea may be of considerable value to inventors and home mechanics.
The mold is of plaster of Paris, held in a wood frame or box, and all that is required in the way of a pattern is a plain block or anything that will produce an impression of the general outline of the casting, as shown in the sketch. After the impression is made the mold should be dusted thoroughly with black lead. The journal bearings are then located, holes drilled in the hardened plaster and wood pins set as shown. These pins must be of hard wood and of a diameter to suit the finished size of the bore. Brass tubing of a suitable size is cut off to the length required and placed on the wood pins. These pieces of tubing will be the brass bushings in the finished castings. Babbitt metal is melted and poured into the mold. Before pouring the metal it is well to be sure that the plaster is thoroughly dry.
The mold is as shown, and the upper side of the metal is at all times exposed to the air. This makes it necessary to have all core prints on the under side, as this side will be the one in view when the casting is finished, and the upper side, as the casting lies in the mold, will be the inside or unexposed side. In case of curved work, reinforcing strips of sheet brass should be placed in the mold and imbedded in the casting, as shown in the sketch by the dotted lines.
A little practice will enable anyone to produce very neat cored castings. and when the brass bushings are fitted to size and faced off, and the casting painted, a piece will be produced that will compare in finish and general usefulness with anything of the nature that could be bought. Do not treat the brass tubes with soldering flux unless necessary, for they should be removable so that they can be replaced when worn.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.
A Developing-Paper Printer
Having a rush order for a large quantity of post cards, I was compelled to adopt some way of making the prints quickly. As I was in a place where a printer could not be secured for several weeks, I set about making one, with good results, as shown in the illustrations.
I first secured an ordinary soap box and took it apart, being careful to keep the boards whole, then rebuilt it to make a box with ends measuring 12 in. square, and 14 in. in length. In one end I cut a large hole to admit a 60-watt tungsten globe, then, taking another board, I fitted a knob and hinges to it and used it for a door. The other end of the box was centered and a hole bored large enough to admit an ordinary socket. Another hole was bored, 4 in. to the right, for another socket. A much heavier material was used for the lid than for the box, being at least ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. A piece of double-strength, clear glass, 8 by 10 in. in size, was procured and set in a hole cut in the cover so that its upper surface would be flush.
An ordinary single-pole switch was secured, as shown in Fig. 1, also a small mousetrap, as shown in Fig. 2. The front part of the trap was sawed off so that only the spring was utilized. The base of the trap was then cut out to fit snugly on the base of the switch, into which two corresponding holes were bored for the screws. The next thing was to secure several clips, which were cut from sheet brass, to operate the switch, and a lever to control the switch, as shown in Fig. 3. The lever is 1 in. wide and 4 in. long, having a slot at the bottom, to slip easily over the lever handle in the switch, and a hole, drilled 1 in. above the slot, to admit a nail to keep the spring from throwing it out of position. The clips for holding the films, or plates, are shown in Fig. 4.
After securing a double socket, of which there are many types, a few yards of lamp cord, a piece of felt, 6 by 8 in. in size, and two ordinary lamp sockets, I was ready to assemble the printer. The switch was then placed on a board of the same width, the spring of the trap placed on top of it and then fastened with screws. This board was then cut off the length of the inside of the box and fastened in place, with the switch and trap spring on top.
The ruby light A burns all the time, acting as a pilot in placing the negative. When the cover B is lowered, after placing the paper, the felt pad on the under side holding it secure, the projecting arm C comes in contact with the switch lever D and makes the connection to the tungsten light E. After the proper time for the exposure has been given the cover is raised and by this action the tungsten light is automatically shut off, leaving only the red light burning. With a 60-watt lamp I secure a print in about 3 seconds, which is fast enough. Of course, by using a larger lamp, the time could be reduced to a second or more, according to the size. The time given was obtained by experience in using ordinary brands of papers.--Contributed by Harry Marcelle, Honolulu, H. I.
Transposing Temperature Readings
It is often necessary for the amateur scientist to transpose a temperature reading from the Fahrenheit to the centigrade scale, or vice versa. This is easily accomplished by means of the diagram without the use of a formula. The centigrade readings are given on the horizontal axis and the Fahrenheit readings on the vertical axis. The temperature readings are the same at minus 40 deg. and from that point on the Fahrenheit readings equal nine-fifths of the centigrade plus 32. This reading is instantly seen by the scale.--Contributed by James F. Boyd, Ann Arbor, Mich.
Protecting Plans in a Shop
The magazines I used in the shop, for making a few things from plans, became so soiled that they were unfit for the library. I now keep them clean by using a covering made of an old picture frame from which the back was removed and a plain glass inserted in its place. This is placed over the magazine or other plans on the bench and keeps them clean, dustless, open and flat.--Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.
Homemade Eyebolts
Many times one has use for an eyebolt when there is none at hand. Eyebolts of almost any size can be quickly made of a spring cotter. Simply thread the end, as shown, and use a nut and washer.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
To Keep Tan Shoes from Turning Dark
Tan-shoe polishes seem to rub the dirt into the leather and to darken it in a short time. Tan shoes can be kept clean and well polished without losing their original bright tan color if treated in the following simple manner. Instead of using tan polish on a new pair of shoes, dampen the end of a soft clean cloth, and rub a small portion of the leather at a time with the moist end and then rub briskly with the dry end. In this way tan shoes can be kept clean and nicely polished like new.--Contributed by John V. Voorhis, Ocean Grove, N. J.
A Finger-Trap Trick
It is easy to fool one’s friends with the little joker made to trap a finger. It consists of a piece of paper, about 6 in. wide and 12 in. or more long. To prepare the paper, cut two slots in one end, as shown, and then roll it up to tube form, beginning at the end with the cuts, then fasten the end with glue. The inside diameter should be about ¹⁄₂ inch.
When the glue is dry, ask some one to push a finger into either end. This will be easy enough to do, but to remove the finger is a different matter. The end coils tend to pull out and hold the finger. If the tube is made of tough paper, it will stand considerable pull.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.
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¶When mercury is spilled it can be picked up with a medicine dropper.
Homemade Roller Skates
The long wheel base of the roller skate illustrated makes it quite safe and will prevent falls. The construction of these skates is simple, the frame being made of a board, 2 ft. long, 3 in. wide and 1 in. thick. Holes are mortised through the ends to admit the wheels. A small block, cut out on one side to fit the heel of the shoe, is securely fastened centrally, for width, and just in front of the rear wheel on the board. Two leather straps are fastened to one side of each board, to fasten the skate onto the shoe. The wheels can be turned from hard wood, or small metal wheels may be purchased, as desired. The axle for the wheels consists of a bolt run through a hole bored in the edge of the board centrally with the mortise.--Contributed by Walter Veene, San Diego, Cal.
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¶The screw collar of a vise should be oiled at least once a month.
How to Make a High Stool
The cast-off handles of four old brooms, three pieces of board, cut as shown, and a few screws will make a substantial high stool. The legs should be placed in the holes, as shown at A, and secured with screws turned through the edge of the board into the legs in the holes. The seat B should be fastened over this and the legs braced by the square piece C. Screws are turned through the legs and into the square piece to keep it in position.
Keeping Magazines in a Book Form
Desiring to preserve magazine copies without binding them, I made up a series of boxes that gave the appearance of books, and placed the numbers in order in them as they were received. The sides of the boxes consist of two thin boards, a little larger than the size of the magazine to be placed in them. The ends are made of the same material, wide enough to equal the thickness of the copies to be placed in each box, four or six numbers, or a volume. One end of these pieces is made slightly rounding, and the pieces are then put together as shown.
The rounded ends of the end pieces and the opening between the sides are covered with a piece of cardboard or bristol board, to shape the back of the box like a book. The finished box is entirely covered, like a book, with cloth or imitation leather. The backs can be lettered and decorated to appear like a book.--Contributed by R. M. Guarino, New York City.
A Cardboard Creaser
A simple apparatus for creasing thin cardboard or heavy paper in a perfectly straight line without broken edges is described in the French magazine La Nature as follows: On a base of convenient dimensions are fastened two pieces of wood, well smoothed and of equal thickness, so that there remains a slot, about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, between them. At one end a hole is bored through these pieces for a shaft on which the creaser will turn. The creaser is made of a piece of wood somewhat longer than the baseboard so that a handle can be formed at one end. At the other end it is slotted for a piece of metal, perforated for the shaft and fastened with two pins or rivets, as shown. On the under side of the creaser a stiff steel wire is fastened so that it coincides with the slot. The wire is fastened by heating the ends red hot, bending them at right angles to the main part and driving them into the creaser.
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¶A razorlike edge can be put on a knife blade by carefully stropping it without lubricant on a piece of smooth aluminum after first whetting on an oilstone.
A Miniature Illuminating-Gas Plant
BY MORTON SOUTHARD
Very few persons realize that the smoke issuing from chimneys is mainly coal gas carrying minute particles of unconsumed carbon that gives it a dark-gray color, containing, besides, some sulphur and sulphuric gases, carbonic-acid gas, and other impurities. It is only necessary to collect the impurities to get a gas that will burn with a bright flame.
The products obtained from a gas plant are gas, ammoniacal liquor, coal tar, and coke. Of 1 ton of coal, 1,500 lb. remains in the retort, or furnace, as coke; 20 gal. of ammoniacal liquor and 140 lb. of coal tar are taken from the cylinders and washers. When distilled, the ammoniacal liquor will yield close to 18 gal. of ammonia, which is used in the manufacture of artificial ice and cold storage. The coal tar will yield approximately 19 lb. of benzol, which is the base of all true aniline dyes; 6 lb. of naphthalene, commonly known as camphor flakes or moth balls, which also yields some dyes; 4 lb. of toluene, which is valuable as a solvent and is the base of saccharine, and about 2 lb. each of phenol (carbolic acid), pyrene, anthracene, xylenol, cresol, chrysene, and alizarin. The residuum is coal-tar pitch, used extensively as a binder for briquetting coal dust for household consumption, and also for roofing and street paving. From these various coal-tar products, dyes of every tint, shade and color are obtained, as well as other industrial chemicals, from flavoring extracts to perfumes, from volatile oils to high explosives, and from the sweetest of all sweets to the bitterest of bitter.
A model gas plant--one that will be instructive and in no way dangerous if proper precautions are taken--can be built from a few fire brick, some pieces of pipe, and a few tin cans. Enough fire brick must be secured to build a furnace 14 in. square by 20 in. high, inside measurements. Build up the four walls on a level surface of the ground, laying the bricks with a cement mortar to seal them perfectly, as coal gas will find any small crevice and escape. For this reason it is best to build a second wall outside of the first and plaster the joint between them as it is built. When the four walls are finished, make a grate of fire brick in the bottom by setting the brick on edge and spacing them about ¹⁄₄ in. After the walls are dry, make ready the material for the fire. Place sufficient kindling on the grate to start a quick fire, then cover it with coal. When this is done, cover the furnace with a heavy piece of asbestos board large enough to reach the outside edge of the furnace walls. The board must be cemented to the top surface of the brick walls. Place the cement mixture on the wall top, then press the board on it, and place a weight on top until the cement becomes dry. The cement mixture should consist of one part cement to two parts of fine sand.
Procure a large can, such as used in canning tomatoes, having a diameter of more than 4 in. and with top and bottom whole; also two other cans, each having a capacity of 2 gal. with closed heads. Connect the first can to the furnace with a piece of 2-in. pipe, as shown in the illustration. The pipe can be bent for convenience, but in case such a piece is not at hand, regular pipe connections can be made with threaded ends, ells, waste nuts, etc. In either case, be sure to make the joints gas-tight. If a bent pipe is used, the ends can be cemented in the asbestos furnace top and the can top. Cut a hole centrally in the asbestos top and at one side in the can top. Fit one end of the pipe in the hole made in the asbestos and seal the connection with asbestos cement, then do likewise with the end that enters the can top.
In connecting the first and second cans, use a piece of 1-in. pipe. This may be bent or connected with ells to form a U-shaped piece. In either case, one end should be longer than the other so that one will just pass into the first can, where it is sealed with asbestos cement, while the other end passes through the second-can top, where it is sealed, and extends to the bottom of the can. For the connection to the third can, make a hole in the top of the second can, but do not seal it up to the connection until the can is first filled with water to within 2 or 3 in. of the top. Also put powdered coke into the water, about halfway of the can’s height.
The connection from the second and third cans should be made of glass so that the gas can be observed passing through it between the cans. This is not absolutely necessary, however, and a piece of ¹⁄₂-in. iron pipe can be used instead. This pipe is connected in the same manner as that between the first and second, extending to the bottom of the third can and being sealed where it passes through the tops. The third can is filled with water to within 2 or 3 in. of the top.
The gas coming from the third can or washer, is ready for use, but as the pressure would not be uniform, a storage tank must be provided. To make a storage tank suitable for the needs of this small plant, procure two pans from 10 to 12 in. in diameter and from 3 to 4 in. deep. One pan should be a trifle smaller, so that it may be inverted in the larger pan, as shown. Make a connection from the third can with a rubber hose to the bottom of the larger pan, near the center, and use this pan as the bottom part of the storage tank. Pour into this pan enough water to make it 2 in. deep, invert the other pan and set it into the water. Attach a gas hose to the bottom of the inverted pan and fasten a gas jet into the rubber-hose end. This will make the gas plant complete and ready to operate.
To start the furnace, bore a hole in one side of the brick walls, about the size of an ordinary lead pencil, and insert a lighted taper to set fire to the kindling. There may be some difficulty in getting the fire to burn at first, and it may be necessary to force considerable air in; however, when the fire is fairly started, it will burn freely and the gases will soon find their way through the first pipe to the condenser, which is the first can. There they will mingle and deposit some tar and ammonia, then flow out through the second pipe, up through the coke and water in the second can and through the glass tube, where they may be observed passing into the can of water, where some more tar and ammonia will be deposited. After leaving this can the gas will find its way through the rubber tube into the storage tank. It passes from this tank to the burner, where it can be lighted and will burn with a bright flame.
If it is possible to force steam into the furnace when the fire is at its height, a much better quality and a larger volume of gas will be made. This is accomplished by placing a closed can of water over a fire near the furnace and connecting it to the latter with a piece of 1-in. gas pipe. The water in this can must be boiling hot at the time the fire in the furnace is lighted. The steam entering the furnace is decomposed, the hydrogen being released as a gas. The pipe connecting the boiler with the furnace should be fitted in the furnace wall so that the steam will pass in at the top of the fire; about halfway up the side of the furnace being about right. The steam will start the gases more rapidly and force them through the pipes.
Make sure that all connections are carefully sealed to prevent the escape of gases, as they will always follow the lines of least resistance and pass out through a very small crevice. The only danger with a plant of this size is from fire, wherefore it should be built away from inflammable materials. It will not make sufficient gas to be of injury to any living being.
Webfoot Attachments for Swimmers
In order to make the feet more effective in swimming, webfoot devices are frequently used. A simple arrangement for this purpose is shown in the illustration. It consists of three thin sections of metal, or wood, fastened together on the back side with spring hinges, which tend to remain open, thereby keeping all the sections spread out in one straight surface. The center section should be cut to conform closely to the shape of the foot, or it will produce considerable resistance during the onward stroke of the foot, and tend to stop the forward movement of the swimmer. Straps should be provided for attaching the device to the foot; one to fit across the toes, and the other adjusted around the ankle by a buckle.
When using the device, the upward or forward stroke of the legs will cause the wings to brush against the water, creating sufficient resistance to overcome the slight force of the springs, thereby pushing the wings parallel with the direction of the stroke. During the opposite, or pushing, stroke, the resistance of the water combined with the opening tendency of the hinges will quickly spread the wings out flat, greatly increasing the effectiveness of the feet.--Contributed by J. B. Laplace, New York City.
Repairing Sectional Spun-Metal Candlesticks
In repairing hollow, spun-brass candlesticks I find that frequently the metal rod holding the sections together becomes loosened from the pitch composition designed to hold it in the base. By tinning the outer edges of the sections that fit into the other portions, which are also tinned on the inner surfaces, and then using an iron, or an alcohol torch, to run the solder together at these points, I secure a very firm job. Paper can be placed at points necessary to keep the solder from running out of bounds. When the rod is firm and the nut only gives trouble, solder can be used to fasten the nut permanently to the grease cup at the top.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Alcohol Blowtorch for Difficult Soldering
To solder in close places, I have found the device illustrated quite convenient, as it leaves both hands free to handle the object being soldered. Two pieces of spring brass, about 3 in. long and ¹⁄₄ in. wide, are bent to the shape shown at A and clamped together with a screw taken from a dry cell, as shown at B. This device clamped to the blowpipe end and fitted with a tube, such as used for holding pencil leads, filled with a wick saturated in alcohol, completes the blowtorch. It makes an excellent tool for small work, as the hands are free to hold the parts to be soldered in place.--Contributed by J. A. Tandy, Ghent, Ky.
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¶Electric wires should never be run crooked.
Preventing Sewing-Machine Thread from Tangling
The highly enameled surface of a sewing-machine arm offers so little resistance to the bottom of the spool that the thread will unwind faster than it is used, thereby causing a tangle. A piece of paper slipped over the spool post will cause enough friction to prevent the spool from revolving beyond the proper speed.
Bearing Made of a Brass Cartridge
A brass cartridge makes a good bearing to fit in a wood driving rod used to run a small piece of foot-power machinery. It prevents wear on the wood and admits more lubrication than the bare wood. Cut the cartridge to the proper length, and ream out the cap hole even with the diameter of the bore of the shell.
Lighting a Match in the Wind
To light a match in a stiff wind is very easy if the wood part back of the prepared end is cut and turned up about it before striking the match. The curled-up shavings about the striker will catch fire easily and hold a flame, where in the ordinary way it is easily blown out when the composition of the striker has burned up.--Contributed by E. K. Marshall, Oak Park, Ill.
A Miniature Cement Plant
BY MORTON SOUTHARD
For many years geologists searched for a substance which could be molded into any size and form, and would have the hardness of rock. As a matter of fact it was found that limestone was composed of carbonic-acid gas, clay, and lime, and that when great heat was applied the sealing bond was disrupted and the rock was reduced to a powder. When this powder was placed in water the gas was set free so fast that it made the water boil. The powder, or calcined rock, is now known as lime. This action demonstrated that nature used heat and moisture in forming these materials into rock. Knowing that clay contained silica, and that silica furnished the sealing quality of rocks, experiments were made to reverse the order of this rock formation, and a cement was produced. Equal portions of lime and clay were mixed together and stirred until all parts were thoroughly mingled, and then the mixture was subjected to a very high heat, after which the resulting mass was ground to a powder. When this powder was mixed with water, instead of the gases passing off as they did in the case of the lime, they penetrated the clay and the mixture became hard. This was first called Portland cement, as it was made from Portland limestone.
This discovery partly solved the problem of artificial-rock making, but not wholly, for the best makes will break, peel, and crack without the slightest cause and when least expected, and besides its dark-gray color and rough appearance is unattractive. Much progress has been made with cement for interior decorations and many of the finest marbles are closely imitated. This grade of cement will not weather and its use is confined wholly to interior work. A white cement is much desired and many of the large manufacturers maintain laboratories where experiments are carried on constantly in the endeavor to produce it.
To build a miniature cement plant, first secure sufficient common brick to make a furnace with an inside cavity, 20 in. square and 24 in. high. Two sides and one back wall are built up, sealing the brick with mortar, clay, or cement. The bottom is covered with bricks standing on edge, and so placed that they will be about ¹⁄₄ in. apart, to serve as a grate. The top is then covered with a piece of tin, or asbestos, and a hole is cut in its center to receive a pipe, about 3 in. in diameter, for a chimney. This chimney should be about 15 in. high. Build the front wall halfway up by laying the brick loosely together so that the fire will get the air through the crevices, then cover the grate with kindling, place coal on top of it, and start the fire. When it is well under way, place a few fair-sized lumps of limestone on top of the fire and complete the wall to the top by laying the brick as closely as possible. Use sufficient coal to burn at least two hours.
When the fire has burned itself out and the furnace has cooled, remove the front wall and take out the burned limestone. Some parts of the limestone will be mixed with the coal, but most of it will remain in the lump, which is known as “black lime,” and when it is placed in water it will give off gas very fast. Obtain some fire clay and thoroughly mix equal portions of lime and clay, then place the mixture in a one-piece pan, made of pressed tin or sheet iron, as a soldered-bottom pan will come apart with the heat. Build up the front of the furnace as before, build a fire and place the pan on the fire and let it burn itself out. When the furnace has cooled, remove the front, take out the pan, and pulverize the mass in the pan. When this powder is placed in water it will become hard. If some sand or gravel is mixed with it, and the mortar thus formed is spread out over a flat surface, a miniature cement sidewalk will be the result.
Gauge for Laying Out Model Gear Wheels
The illustration shows a simple device for making small gear wheels by hand. It is made of a piece of brass, ¹⁄₈ in. thick and about 5 in. long, shaped as shown, forming a tooth, A, according to the size of the teeth required in the gear wheel, with the end B on a radial line from the center of the wheel. Use one or more hacksaws, according to the size of the slots or teeth to be cut. If one blade is not large enough and two are too large, grind off the teeth on the inner side of the saws, or if two are not large enough, place a thin piece of paper or metal between them to make the thickness required. Make a clamp, C, for holding the blades together, by using a piece of sheet brass, 6 in. long and ¹⁄₂ in. wide. This clamp also acts as a depth gauge for the slots.
Place the wheel in a vise and proceed by cutting the first slot very carefully. Place the tooth A of the gauge in this first slot and cut the next by holding the side of the saw close up against the end of the gauge, at B. This keeps all the teeth radiating from the center of the wheel. Cut each slot in the same manner until all of them are formed.--Contributed by George Jupp, New York City.
Homemade Level
Having need of a level, and there being no place to obtain one within several miles, I constructed one as follows: A long medicine bottle was filled with water and tied to a straight piece of wood, 2 ft. long. After setting it properly by turning the piece end for end several times, I found that it could be used with accuracy.--Contributed by Fred L. King, Islip, L. I.
A Tuberculosis Cottage
BY N. F. FULTZ
The tuberculosis society of a certain locality needed a demonstration cottage for their crusade against the white plague, and they placed their need before the boys of the public-school shops. One class of eighth-grade boys volunteered, and two days after the job was started the complete cottage was delivered to the society. The material required for its construction was as follows:
220 linear feet of ship-lap, 1 in. thick and 6 in. wide. 80 ft. of 1-in. flooring. 6 studs, 14 ft. long. 7 pieces for plates and rafters, 2 by 4 in., 10 ft. long. 3 pieces for sills, 2 by 4 in., 16 ft. long. 100 ft. of sheathing boards. 100 ft. of tar roofing paper.
The cottage is constructed in sections and can be assembled or dismantled in 30 minutes. The sections are not so heavy but that they can be handled with ease by two men. There are seven sections, namely, the floor, two sides, two ends, and two roof sections. If the cottage is to be moved only a short distance, it can be loaded into an ordinary dray assembled.
Since the building is made in sections, it is well to construct the floor first, which is a simple matter. Cut two sills of the 2 by 4-in. stock, 10 ft. long. Cap these onto the ends of the five joists, which are cut from 2 by 4-in. stock, to a length that will total 8 ft. when the thickness of the two sills are added. Lay the flooring the long way of the section, bringing it flush with all outside edges. This completes the floor section.
The two side sections are made in a similar manner. Cut the studs--12 of them--6 ft. 4 in. long, and four plates, 10 ft. long. Cap the ends of the studs with the floor and rafter plates, according to the measurement on the floor plan. Nail five pieces of ship-lap, cut 10 ft. 1¹⁄₂ in. long, on the bottom of the section, and one similar board to the top edge. Bore four holes, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, 1 in. from the outside edge in the floor plate. These are for ¹⁄₂-in. lag screws, to hold the parts together when the sections are assembled.
The front-end section is arranged for a 30-in. door. The top, or rafter, plate is cut 7 ft. 4¹⁄₂ in. long. This makes the allowance for the width of the side studs and plates when they are to be assembled, a very important matter to remember. The floor plate is cut 4 ft. 5 in. long. Provide a dummy, made from a waste piece, to be fastened at the bottom of the door studs until the sections are assembled, when it is removed. Use screws to fasten this piece in place. Nail five pieces of ship-lap, 5 ft. long, at the bottom of the section, and an 8-ft. piece at the top. Be careful to set the end studs in from the end of the board the exact thickness of the corresponding studs on the side section.
The back-end section is much more easily made. The top plate, as well as the floor plate, is cut the same as on the other section. Place the intermediate stud on the center and nail on ship-lap, as in the other construction.
In making the roof sections, cut four rafters for an 18-in. pitch, or any other pitch desired. These are to be placed at the ends. Note the notch on the lower end of the rafter marked A in the illustration. Make allowance for the thickness of the rider marked C. This piece can be made of 2 by 4-in. stock or any convenient material 1 in. thick. The rider must be nailed to the comb end of the rafters of one section, while a dummy, fastened to the under side of the rafters of the other section, will serve the purpose of holding them true until the roof is placed. Nail the sheathing on, closing the cracks between the boards as well as possible. Start at the comb end and bevel the first board for the comb joint. Make allowance for an 8-in. board at the lower end, so that a 4-in. overhang may be had. Cover these sections with the desired roofing. Place two screw holes at the lower end of each rafter to be used in holding the roof in place. Always use screws instead of nails, if the house is to be dismantled. Provide three rafter locks, marked B, and then the roof is ready for assembling.
The three gable boards, cut from ship-lap, can be more easily made after the cottage is assembled. After they are fitted, each board must be fastened with screws which will find a hold in the rafters. These boards are marked D. Be sure that all lag-screw holes for the corner and floor moorings are bored before starting to assemble the parts.
The screens are made with the half-lap construction at the corners reinforced with angle plates. This construction is shown in the detail sketch. The screens, or storm wings, should be covered with a good grade of oilcloth or canvas. They are hung with an ordinary 3-in. wing hinge.
The adjusting device for these storm wings consists of a piece of 1-in. gas pipe, 4 ft. long, threaded on one end to receive a collar. Two flanges are used, one on each side of the board, above the wings and located centrally. A wood plug is driven into the outer end of the pipe, and a small pulley, suitable for a ³⁄₈-in. rope, hung on it. Place a screw eye centrally into the lower edge of the wing and tie the end of a ³⁄₈-in. rope to it. Run the other end of the rope through the pulley and a hole in the wall. Place screw eyes, to which the rope may be tied, at proper places on the inside of the wall boards. An ordinary screen door is hung in the door opening.
A house built in this manner was placed in the courthouse lawn as a permanent fixture. Among other things brought out in the construction was the fact that a cottage may be built by a boy at a cost less than $50. Thus a stricken parent, brother, or sister may be provided, by the hands of a young mechanic, with the first means that may bring him or her back to health.
To Remove Putty from the Hands
Putty purchased from a dealer is usually in a soft and oily state, and the amateur glazier soon finds his hands, as well as the tools, plentifully smeared after the job is finished. Removing this from the hands with the putty knife or a stick is very tedious, but if a bunch of fine excelsior is used, the putty will be removed quickly and thoroughly.
Focusing Screen for Enlarging Cameras
It is often very difficult when focusing an enlarging camera to determine just when the perfect focus is reached, especially when the negative is dim and without contrasting lights and shades. This difficulty may be overcome and a perfect focus quickly determined by the use of a focusing screen prepared as follows: Take a clear film or plate, one that has been fixed without being exposed, and when dry, rule lines on it with India ink to form small squares. To make the ink adhere to the film, dust the latter with talcum powder.
To use the screen, slide the film to be enlarged in place and set it for the size of enlargement, focusing roughly. Remove the film or plate and put the screen in its place. The camera may now be brought to a perfect focus with ease, as the black lines show up sharp and clear on the screen. When the focus has been determined the screen is removed and the film replaced.
The squares may be drawn from ¹⁄₄-in. size down to the smallest it is possible to make. For large views it is easier to focus with the smaller squares. If the squares are made to a certain size they can be measured when thrown on the screen and the degree of enlargement determined.--Contributed by R. H. Galbreath, Denver, Colorado.
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¶The longitudinal carriage handle should never be held in the hand when cutting threads.
An Indian Snake Game
Ask any Canadian Indian what a snow snake is, and he will tell you that it is a piece of twisted wood, such as a wild grape vine, about 5 or 6 ft. long, and 1 in. or over in thickness, stripped of its bark and polished. It is grasped with one hand in the center and given a strong forward throw at the tail end by the other hand, while at the same time the hold in the center is loosened. With a hard bottom and about 1 in., or more, of light snow on top--ideal conditions for playing the game--the Indian snake will travel for a long distance when thrown by an expert, and to a novice seeing the snake traveling along at a rapid speed, raising and lowering its head as the wood vibrates from side to side, its resemblance to the real reptile is perfect.
When the Indians have tests of skill with the snake they make tracks through the snow by drawing a log in it, and sometimes as many as a dozen tracks are made side by side, and a dozen snakes are sent along at once. The one who makes his snake emerge from the end of the track first the most times out of a certain number of throws, takes the prize. The trick of throwing the snake is not at all hard to acquire, and it makes an exciting game.--J. E. Noble, Toronto, Can.
Storage of Wood for Cabinetwork
When working with wood to be made into furniture, or other constructions of a high grade of workmanship, the ends of the finished pieces should be shellacked in order to prevent moisture from entering the ends. The ends are more susceptible to moisture, as the pores of the wood are exposed. The application of this remedy will often prevent warping or winding of boards, which is particularly distressing after a piece has been shaped to its final size.
The pieces should be stored in a warm, dry room, and in any event care should be taken that they are exposed evenly. If a board is placed on the top of a pile of similar pieces, it will be noted that, if left overnight and the weather becomes rainy, the upper piece will be warped. This is caused by the absorption of moisture on the upper side, the resulting expansion forcing the piece to warp or curve.
Long pieces of wood under process should be set on end while being stored temporarily. The permanent storage should be in racks having supports about 2 ft. apart. If the supports are too far apart, the boards may warp or wind at intervening points. Boards in piles should be separated by strips about 1 in. thick, set about 3 ft. apart, in order that the lumber may be open to the air. This will keep the stock more uniformly dry.
Hanging Heavy Rug on a Line for Beating
An easy way to put a heavy carpet, or rug, over a clothesline is to fasten two pulleys, one to the house and the other to a post or tree, or on two posts, and hang the line between them; then pull the rug over the line and draw up the ends of the line. A very heavy rug can be easily hung in this manner. The line should be long enough to reach over the pulleys and to the ground and have end enough at both supports for fastening.
Repairing a Broken Metal Cross
A metal cross, the shank of which was imbedded in a plaster ball, broke off level with the top. Not wishing to remove some of the plaster to take out the shank, I soldered a stout brass pin on the back of the cross, allowing the pin to project far enough to fit solidly into a small hole back of the shank. This allowed the cracked edges to fit closely together so that the crack could be entirely concealed with a touch of bronze paint.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
To Determine the Efficiency of Electrically Heated Devices
The efficiency of any machine is defined as being the ratio of the output to the input expressed as a percentage, and both quantities must be measured in the same units. For example, the output of a motor is 10 hp. when the power taken by the motor from the electric circuit to which it is connected is 9,325 watts. What is the efficiency? Since the output must be expressed in the same units it is necessary to change the 10 horsepower to watts or the 9,325 watts to horsepower. There are 746 watts in each horsepower. The 9,325 watts are equivalent to 9,325 ÷ 746 or 12.5 hp. The efficiency is then equal to 10 ÷ 12.5 or .8; that is, the output is .8 of the input or, when multiplied by 100 to change it to percentage, 80 percent.
By way of an example, consider the efficiency of an electric heater, like the one shown in the illustration, which is immersed in water placed in a suitable vessel. The energy input to this heater in a given time may be easily determined by measuring the current passing through the heater circuit and the difference in pressure between the terminals of the heater. These measurements may be made, in case the heater is operated on a direct circuit, by means of any ammeter and voltmeter of suitable capacity, connected as shown. If the heater is operated on an alternating-current circuit, only alternating-current instruments can be used, as certain types of instruments will not operate when connected to such a circuit. In either case, the product of the ammeter reading in amperes and the voltmeter reading in volts will give the power taken by the heater in watts, assuming the heater winding to be noninductive. If the heater winding is not noninductive, then the current and the electrical pressure will no longer be in phase when the device is operating on an alternating-current circuit, and a wattmeter must be used. Practically all heating elements are wound noninductively so that the power may be measured by means of an ammeter and voltmeter.
The energy taken by a heater in a given time will be equal to the product of the average power and the time. For example, if the heater takes 300 watts for 30 minutes--¹⁄₂ hour--then the energy consumed is equal to 300 times ¹⁄₂ or 150 watt-hours, which is equal to .15 kilowatt-hour.
To determine the output of the heater is a little more difficult, but it may be approximated as follows: Since the object of the device is to convert electrical energy into heat energy the output must be measured in heat units. The unit of heat most commonly employed is the calorie, which is the heat required to raise the temperature of one gram of water one degree centigrade. Hence, if a certain weight of water has its temperature increased a definite number of degrees centigrade by the electric heater, then the total heat imparted to the water in calories will equal the weight of the water in grams multiplied by the change in temperature in degrees centigrade. Of course, the heat generated by the heater exceeds that obtained by the above calculation, due to the fact that some heat is imparted to the vessel containing the water and to the supports for the vessel, but it is only the heat imparted to the water that must be considered, as the other heat is not useful.
When the temperature of the water is raised to the boiling point and a part of the water is evaporated, the foregoing method of calculating the heat imparted to the water no longer holds good, and the following method must be used. Weigh the water before and immediately after the test to determine the amount of evaporation. For each gram of water evaporated there will be required approximately 536 calories, and the heat in calories imparted to the water to raise its temperature to the boiling point will be equal to the difference between 100 and the initial temperature of the water multiplied by the weight of the water at the start. To determine the efficiency, the input to the heating element in electrical units must be changed to heat units which may be done by multiplying the power in watts by the time in seconds and this product in turn by .24, giving the result in calories. The following example may serve as a help in performing such an experiment or test.
Weight of water at the start 500.0 grams. Weight of water at the end of test 474.5 grams. Temperature of water at the start 25 deg. C. Average current taken by the heater 6.5 amperes. Average pressure at the heater terminals 110 volts. Time heater is connected 5¹⁄₂ minutes. Change in temperature of the water 75 deg. C. Heat developed in heater: 6.5 × 110 × 5¹⁄₂ × 60 × .24 = 56,628 calories. Heat absorbed by water in coming to boiling point: 500 × 75 = 37,500 calories. Heat used in evaporating 25.5 grams of water: 536 × 25.5 = 13,668 calories. Total heat absorbed by water 51,168 calories. Efficiency of heater:
51,168 ------ × 100 = 90.4 per cent. 56,628
This value of efficiency may be increased by insulating the vessel with a nonconductor of heat and providing a covering for it, thus decreasing the losses to the air and surrounding objects.
The efficiency of an electric stove or electric iron, or, in fact, any electrically heated device, may be determined in a manner similar to the water heater. In the case of a stove, place a vessel filled with water on it and measure the heat imparted to the water in a given time, also the input to the heating element in the same time, from which data the efficiency may be calculated. In the case of an electric iron, dampened cloths may be ironed and the actual water evaporated by the iron, determined by weighing the cloths before and after the ironing, together with the increase in weight of the cloth on the ironing board, the time the iron is in use and the temperature of the cloths. The actual water evaporated is the difference in the weight of the cloths before and after ironing, minus the increase in weight of the cloth on the ironing board, which takes up some of the moisture from the cloths being ironed.
Earthen Mustard Pots Used as Acid Jars
A small earthen mustard pot of the type shown makes an ideal acid pot for the bench, as it is not only acid-proof but will not upset so easily as the ordinary acid bottle. The large cork, or stopper of soft wood, thoroughly boiled in hot paraffin, is bored for the insertion of another paraffined cork holding the acid-brush handle. If a coat of paraffin is given the handle, it will easily resist the action of the acid and last much longer.
Squeezing Paste from Tubes
Tubes of paste, glue, etc., may be more easily handled by applying an ordinary key, such as found on most cans containing fish put up in oil. The end of the tube is inserted in the slot of the key and then turned.--Contributed by J. H. Priestly, Lawrence, Mass.
Seeing an Alternating Current in a Mirror
It will almost appear impossible to those unfamiliar with laboratory methods that one may watch the vibrations--3,600 per minute--of an alternating current in a little pocket mirror without the use of any apparatus other than a telephone receiver. The experiment is very interesting and instructive, one that may be performed at practically no expense.
Take an ordinary inexpensive watchcase receiver, drill a hole in the cover for a short piece of brass tubing, to make a gas connection, and then plug up the center opening with a cork, into which is tightly fitted a piece of ¹⁄₈-in. tubing. The upper end of this should be closed with a plug having a central opening about the size of a pin. Procure a small rectangular pocket mirror and remove the celluloid covering, and then, across the back, solder a piece of straight wire to form a vertical spindle, about which the mirror may be rotated. Connect any resistance, such as a magnet coil of 10 or 20 ohms, in series with an incandescent lamp, and then connect the receiver terminals to the ends of this resistance. In this manner an ideal alternating-current supply of a few volts to operate the receiver safely is secured. Turn on the gas only sufficient to produce a narrow pencil of flame, not over 1 in. long. Mount the mirror as shown, or hold the spindle between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand while rocking it back and forth with the right. Ordinarily only a streak of light will appear, but immediately upon turning on the current this streak will be broken up into a series of regular waves, flatter or sharper according to the speed with which the mirror is rocked. After carefully noting the wave form, connect the receiver with the primary of an ordinary medical coil, across the make-and-break, and note the marked difference in the waves.
By replacing the receiver with a block of wood having a circular depression, about 2 in. in diameter and ¹⁄₈ in deep, over which is pasted a disk of smooth paper, the waves set up by the human voice may be observed if the talking is done loudly and close to the disk. The gas connection in this case is made from the back of the block, as shown. As the several vowels are sounded, the characteristic wave from each will be seen in the mirror. It is also interesting to increase the pitch of the voice and note how much finer the waves become.
Homemade Screen-Door Check
An outside screen door causes considerable annoyance by slamming when exposed to the wind, even if it is equipped with a bumper. Nothing short of a door check will prevent this slamming, so I made a very simple pneumatic check for our door, which works entirely satisfactorily.
A discarded bicycle foot pump was procured and hinged to the casing over the door, as shown in the illustration. The hinge was made as follows: Two holes, A, were drilled through the stirrup, as near the foot plate as possible; two ordinary screw eyes were turned into the door casing at B, and two pins were passed through the holes in the screw eyes and the holes in the stirrup. This allows the pump to swing when the door is opened. The end of the plunger rod C is flattened and a hole drilled through it to receive the pin at the top of the bracket D, which is screwed firmly to the door.
The action of the pump when the door is opened can be readily understood. The check is adjusted very easily by the machine screw E, which controls the exhaust of the air when the door closes. The screw is turned into the hole in the base of the pump where the pipe was originally connected. One side of the end of the screw is slightly flattened to allow a better adjustment. The pump can be quickly removed by pulling out the upper pin in the hinge part.--Contributed by M. C. Woodward, San Diego, California.
Bushing Made of Brass Tip on Cartridge Fuse
In order to fasten a short piece of tubing in a socket which had become worn to a funnel shape, without having to tap the socket and put in a threaded bushing, it was fixed as follows: One of the brass tips on a spent cartridge fuse was cut off and one of its ends filed tapering. After trimming the fiber lining so that it would fit snugly over the tube, it was driven home. The combination of brass and fiber adjusted itself nicely to the shape of the worn socket and made a tight fit.
Opening Springs for a Tennis-Racket Clamp
When putting a tennis racket in a press, it is difficult to keep the press open to let the racket slip in. This can be easily remedied by simply putting a small coil spring around each of the four bolts, as shown. This will always open the press when the bolts are loosened.--Contributed by W. X. Brodnax, Jr., Bethlehem, Pa.
Magic-Paper Fortune Telling
At outdoor carnivals and fairs there is usually a fortune teller who uses a glass wand to cause one’s fortune to appear on a pad of paper. Anyone may perform this trick by observing the following directions.
Instead of a glass wand use a long, narrow bottle of glass. Dip a new pen into copper sulphate, diluted with six parts of water, and write out the “fortune” on a piece of paper. The writing, when dry, will not be visible. Next procure two corks to fit the bottle. An unprepared cork is placed in the bottle and the other is pocketed, after hollowing it out and inserting a small sponge soaked in pure ammonia.
The bottle with the cork is passed out for examination. The cork is casually placed into the pocket after it is returned by a bystander. A pad of paper is then proffered and an initial is placed on the pad of paper by the person whose “fortune” is to be told. The paper is rolled up, with the prepared side on the inside, and inserted into the glass bottle. The fumes of ammonia will develop the mysterious message. The trick can be repeated if several prepared sheets of paper are on hand, and always proves of interest in a party of young persons.
Common Mistakes in Model Making
BY H. J. GRAY
Models made as a pastime or for exhibition purposes should represent correctly the full-sized machine, not only as regards general design but also in the proportioning of parts, the finish, and the choice of materials. The satisfaction derived from the possession of a model is greater when it is truly representative. Study and careful measurement of the original are necessary to attain this result, and provide valuable experience in the application of correct mechanical principles.
The most conspicuous, though perhaps not the most frequent, errors made by amateurs are in the proportioning of the various parts. This usually arises from insufficient study of the original machine, and is often sufficiently glaring to attract the attention even of a casual observer. The foundation or base of a model stationary engine, for example, is often painted to resemble brickwork. This is correct, provided the spaces are proportioned so as to represent bricks and not three-ton slabs of granite.
Mistakes are made in the selection of pulley wheels, both as regards the character and the size of the pulley that would be suitable for the particular purpose.
The “cheese-head” or flat-head machine screw appears to have a peculiar fascination for the model maker, judging from the frequency with which it is misplaced. It is only necessary to consider what would happen in a full-sized machine if such screws were used for making joints in valve rods, cylinder covers, slide bars, for fixing bearing caps, and the like, to realize how completely such a defect mars the appearance of a model to a discriminating eye. Bolts, or, in some cases, studs and nuts, should be used to give an appearance of correct workmanship.
Many novices make a serious mistake in the character of the finish given to the various parts. This usually results through devoting insufficient attention to the method of manufacture adopted in engineering practice. Under the impression that a mottled appearance gives an ornamental effect, they will make a shaft end with a scraped finish. To the casual observer there would be nothing amiss, but a mistake of this kind would offend the trained eye of an engineer, because it is entirely unrepresentative. The object of scraping sliding surfaces is to obtain a greater degree of flatness by removing small inequalities. As the subsequent use of a file would only undo the work of a scraper, the surface is permitted to remain mottled, as left by the scraping tool. But the end of an engine shaft is not a sliding surface, and in engineering practice would be finished in a lathe.
Nickelplating is often resorted to in order to produce a brilliant and supposedly pleasing finish to the model of a casting. This is obviously wrong, for the actual casting--which might weigh tons--would be painted, and not electroplated.
Locomotive wheels or stacks of polished brass add to the appearance of a model only in the eyes of the uninitiated. Few persons would care to risk a railroad journey if the engine had brass wheels. Iron or steel is the correct material to use. Brass is also often used instead of iron for cylinders, connecting rods, and starting levers on models, or for steam pipes, which should be made of steel or copper.
In certain cases there may be unusual difficulties in using the correct material for a machine part made to a small scale. It is then permissible to use other material, provided some attempt is made to disguise the fact by means of an appropriate finish. Copperplating, for example, may be used to disguise some other material, if the parts should properly be made of copper. It is often convenient to make a model boiler of brass. It should not be polished but bronzed, to represent the iron or steel plates of a full-size boiler.
Take-Down Emergency Oars
Owners of sail or power boats will find the take-down oars shown in the sketch easily made and of value in an emergency far out of proportion to the space occupied in a boat. A pair of ordinary oars was cut as shown, and pipe fittings were attached to the ends to form a detachable joint. When knocked down the oars may be stored in a seat cupboard, or other convenient place.--Contributed by H. E. Ward, Kent, Wash.
How to Make Propeller Blades Quickly
Requiring a number of propeller blades for use in making models of windmills, and other constructions, I found that I could save much time and obtain a satisfactory set of propeller blades by using ordinary shoehorns of the same size. The small ends of the horns were flattened out so that they could be fastened to pieces of wood for bearings, and then hammered to the proper shape for cutting the air, or receiving the force of the wind.
Bench Stop
Serviceable bench stops may be made by grooving pieces of maple, or other close-grained, hard wood and fitting strips of clock spring into them, as shown in the sketch. The pieces must fit the holes in the bench top snugly, and the spring will then prevent them from slipping out. The end of the spring fastened to the stop should be annealed so that a hole for the screw may be drilled into it readily.--Contributed by Stanley Mythaler, Spring Valley, Minn.
How to Make a Good Putty
To make a good putty the following formula should be used: Mix equal parts of firmly ground whiting and white lead with enough linseed oil to make a thick liquid; add enough commercial putty to this to make the consistency of regular putty. This putty will not crack or crumble, and it costs very little to make. If desired, the commercial putty may be left out and enough whiting added to take up the liquid. The life of this putty is four times greater than a commercial putty.--Contributed by L. E. Fetter, Portsmouth, N. H.
Cupboard for Kitchen Utensils
The illustration shows a style of a cupboard in which kitchen utensils can be kept in an orderly manner without taking up a great deal of space. The cupboard is tall and narrow, and the interior face of each side is scored at even intervals with saw cuts, ¹⁄₄ in. deep. In the grooves are placed shelves, which are merely squares of galvanized iron. By placing the shelf in the proper grooves the space is adapted to the size of the utensil. The small floor space occupied allows the cupboard to be placed in the part of the kitchen that is most convenient.
A Diminishing Card Trick
A clever diminishing card trick may be played with a piece of paper made up as shown in the illustration. Show the audience the whole card, Fig. 1, then fold it halfway and show again, Fig. 2, then again, Fig. 3. If this is done quickly it will not be noticed. A piece of paper is used the size of a regular playing card, and an ace is made on one side. When it is folded over one side of the reduced size is made to show the same ace, then another fold is made and the smaller ace is made.--Contributed by Louis Waherer, Tiffin, Ohio.
Table Sockets for Electrical Heating Apparatus
The usual method of running a wire from a chandelier or wall bracket to a heating device on the dining-room table is inconvenient as well as unsightly. This I overcome by making a special narrow leaf to put in the extension top into which sockets are set flush for extension wires. These are connected to a floor socket, or a line can be run under the carpet or rug.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.
Dressing for Fishline
A quick-drying dressing for fishlines may be prepared as follows: Mix equal parts of boiled linseed oil and gold sizing; apply this to the line in a moderately thick coat. Dressing which will not dry as rapidly but which will resist the water as well is made by melting together 4 parts of paraffin and 1 part of resin. Melt the paraffin in a deep metal vessel over a small fire, and add the resin after the paraffin has dissolved. Care must be taken not to permit the fire to come into contact with the mixture. Allow it to cool slightly and then coil the line in the vessel. Draw it through a piece of wet sponge held between the fingers. This will cool the mixture rapidly and the line may then be stretched and polished with a wet rag.--Contributed by A. E. Tetu, Ottawa, Canada.
Utensil Rack for Camp Fire
A compact, simple device for holding cooking utensils over a camp fire is shown in the sketch. It may be collapsed into a small bundle and is of light weight, factors which are important in camping equipment. The device consists of two sections of pipe, A, supported on rods, B, having eyes bent at their upper ends. The lower end of the supports is pointed and may be driven into the ground so as to spread the pipes more at one end than at the other, thus providing for large as well as small utensils.
Wheelbarrow as Tennis-Court Marker
Many home tennis courts are not provided with a marker, and the use of a wheelbarrow for this purpose has been found convenient. A can provided with hooks at its upper edge was attached to the front of the wheelbarrow, as shown in the sketch, and the lime mixture, very thin, poured into it. Holes were made at the lower edge of the can so that the liquid ran onto the wheel and was transferred to the court. The holes must be made large enough so that they will not clog quickly, and the mixture must be very thin. It is easy to cover the outline several times if necessary. Hence, to use a thin mixture will be found economical, rather than to waste time removing sediment from the spout.
Retouching Negatives for Printing
Portraits taken out of doors sometimes show unusually heavy shadows under the eyebrows and chin. The printing of these through the negatives may be altered by applying a little red or blue color on the glass side of the negative. Stippling the surface by contact with the texture of the skin also aids in removing the heaviness of such shadows.
Mat varnish, containing a small amount of iodine dissolved in it, and applied to the glass side of a negative, will cause much lighter prints than if the negative is permitted to remain with heavy shadows. The varnish will dry quickly, and it may then be scraped off carefully or removed with benzole from the parts of the negative which are not to be lightened. Care must be taken in scraping away the varnish in order to prevent scratches.
Hand-Operated Whirling Fan
The whirling fan illustrated is more convenient than a fan of the ordinary type, and may be made by a boy of only moderate mechanical skill. The materials necessary for its construction are easily available in the home. The sketch at the center shows the completed fan, and the smaller sketch at the right illustrates the method of operation. The details of construction are shown in the working drawings.
The wing of the fan is cut from a sheet of Bristol board, and is 6 in. long and 5¹⁄₂ in. wide. It is formed by gluing two pieces together, the upper end of the driving shaft being glued into place at the same time. The small sketch at the left shows the size and shape of the piece of wood into which the driving shaft is fastened at its upper end.
The driving rod, shown at the right of the larger sketch, is ¹⁄₈ in. in diameter and 9¹⁄₂ in. long. The flattened portions near the upper end are drilled to receive the ends of the cords which wind and unwind on the shaft at the top of the handles. A brace of similar wire is fixed near the middle of the handles so that they pivot on its ends when the lower ends of the handles are pressed together, as shown in the sketch at the right. The handles are of wood, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, an 6¹⁄₂ in. long. Their ends are rounded and slight notches are cut into the corners near the ends, to provide for the tying of the cords.
A wide rubber band, slipped over the handles near their upper ends, causes them to close at the top, and when the fan is in use this will reverse the rotation of the fan. It is necessary only to squeeze the handles inward, and the reverse action is repeated.
Photographing Electric Sparks
Electric sparks may be photographed with simple equipment, and the process offers a diversion from the common subjects for photography. The materials necessary are a spark coil and current source, a photographic plate, facilities for developing it, and a sheet of tin foil. The illustration shows a typical photograph of an electric spark, and the variety possible is unlimited.
The process, which must be performed in a dark room with a ruby light, is as follows: Over the mouth of a small glass bottle, partly filled with talcum powder, tie a piece of cheesecloth, to act as a sieve. Arrange the material on a table, the sheet of tin foil lying flat, and a photographic plate on top of it, coated side upward.
Spread a thin layer of the powder on the plate, through the sieve. Attach a needle to an electric wire and fix the other end of the wire to one of the secondary posts of the spark coil. Attach a second wire to the other post of the spark coil and to the sheet of tin foil. Care must be taken in handling the needle that only the insulated portion, where it is joined to the wire, comes in contact with the fingers, or a shock may result. Place the point of the needle near the middle of the plate and turn on the current, permitting it to produce a spark of not more than one second’s duration. If the exposure is longer than that the result will not be satisfactory. Wipe off the powder and develop the plate. If care has been taken in the process, a photograph similar to the one shown in the illustration will result.
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¶Shoulder hooks fixed about a shop, so that handsaws may be placed on them by the handle, will save damage to saws.
Cannon-Shell Dinner Bell
Being called to dinner by the stirring peal of a bell made of a cannon shell is a novelty in use in Toronto. The bell shown in the sketch was made of a 3-in. brass shell, and when struck with a gavel gives out tones that penetrate throughout a large house.
The cap piece was removed at A, and an eyebolt fastened in place with a nut on each side. The gong was suspended from a wall bracket made of a band of brass fastened to the wall.--Contributed by James B. Noble, Toronto, Canada.
Use for Old Magazines
Magazines are often thrown away because of the rapidity with which they accumulate. Since most readers care to save only certain articles, a good plan is to tear the magazines apart, removing the desired articles and binding them in a separate volume. If this is carefully and systematically done, and an index prepared, the volume will be of value and interest.
Flatiron Polisher
Housewives, and others who appreciate the need for a smooth surface on a flatiron, will find the polisher shown in the sketch a convenient aid in keeping their irons in proper shape.
A wooden block, about 4 in. wide and 6 in. long, was fitted with five thin patches of beeswax as shown in the upper sketch. The holes bored into the wood were made large enough to fit the wax, which may be purchased in large thimble-shaped pieces. A double layer of linen, or other strong cloth, was fitted over the side having the wax imbedded in it, and a piece of fine emery cloth was folded over the other side of the block. A band of sheet iron riveted together so as to fit snugly over the edges holds the cloth and emery cloth in place.
The flatiron may be polished by rubbing it on the emery-cloth side of the block and waxed slightly by rubbing it over the cloth side.
Clothespin-Basket Hook
To conveniently support a clothespin basket along the line on which the clothes are being hung, a wire support can be provided, bent to form a hook at both ends and the center shaped into a V-bend. With the basket supported by the two ends, the wire can be slid along the clothesline as required.--Contributed by N. R. Moore, Cherokee, Iowa.
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¶Varnishing should as a rule be done in a room having a temperature of 80° F., and in some instances 15° higher is desirable.
Leather Tire Patch
A leather patch fixed over a tire puncture with shellac will be found to give satisfaction and may be attached easily. Cut the patch somewhat larger than the puncture and thin out its edges with a knife. Melt flakes of shellac in a flame, fusing them, and rub the hot mixture on the patch and tire, smoothing it down quickly. Such a patch may be placed over a plug and will aid in holding it in place.--Contributed by Robert C. Knox, Petersburg, Fla.
A Perpetual Whirligig
Camphor is the motive power which drives the device shown in the illustration, and it will cause the whirligig to revolve for several days, or until the camphor is consumed.
The whirligig is made of a piece of cork, ¹⁄₂ in. square, with a needle stuck into each of its four sides. Smaller pieces of cork, to which pieces of camphor have been fixed by means of sealing wax, are attached to the ends of the needles. Care should be taken to keep the needles and cork free from oil or grease, as this will retard their movement. As soon as the device is placed in a dish of water it will start whirling and continue to do so as long as motive power is supplied. A small flag or other ornament may be attached to the center cork.
Testing and Caring for Files
To test a file hold it so that the light will be reflected sharply from the teeth and observe whether their edges are flattened and appear as white lines. If so, the file is dull and should be recut if of considerable size and value.
Files should not be thrown into drawers and mixed with other tools, but should be carefully set in racks or drawers for the purpose. A mechanic would not throw a straightedge into a drawer containing other tools, and a file should be given similar consideration, as every nick in the teeth impairs the efficiency of the file.
Files may be sharpened by dipping them into sulphuric acid, but care must be taken not to permit the acid to come into contact with one’s clothes or person. Water is used to wash off the acid.
Files should be provided with individual handles. This prevents injury to the hand of the worker and aids in the proper use of the file. Handles should be carefully fitted and be made of a size proportionate to the file. In removing a handle from a file, strike the handle at the end nearest the file, by sliding a piece of hard wood along the surface of the file, as the blow is struck with it. Do not use another file or metal object in thus removing a handle, as it will injure the latter.
Catching Large Fish with a Teaspoon
Teaspoons may be made into alluring trolling spoon hooks, of a size suitable for catching large fish, by the addition of hooks, as shown in the sketch.
Drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes near the end of the spoon handle, the tip of the bowl, and near the handle of the latter.
Procure three sets of triple hooks, a line swivel, and a strip of lead, about 1 in. long. Rivet one end of the swivel and the loop of one of the triple hooks into the hole of the handle. Wire the lower end of this triple hook to the handle and with the same piece of copper wire secure a second triple hook at the thin part of the handle. Drill a hole through the lead strip and rivet it, together with a third triple hook, into the upper hole of the bowl. Fix the lower end of this hook by binding it with copper wire, through the hole near the tip of the bowl.
This hook has been tested in the waters of Puget Sound and is a deadly lure for rock cod, and other fish weighing up to 12 lb. The famous barracuda and rock bass of the Catalina Islands have also been caught with it. By permitting the lure to sink to the bottom and bringing it up a yard or two with a quick jerk, it acts as a “jig” bait. It may also be used in trolling. Once a fish has struck, it is seldom able to escape.--Contributed by O. P. Avery, Los Angeles, Cal.
An Easily Made Counter
From unruled paper cut a piece, as shown at A in the sketch, and make slits parallel and evenly spaced with a sharp knife. Also cut six strips, similar to the one shown at B, to fit the slits cut in A. The strips are numbered as shown and inserted on the under side of A, and by pulling the strips as shown, one can count up the number of parts or keep tally on any game. By making more slits and using more strips very large numbers can be recorded.
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¶Be sure to keep the screw and nut in the jaws of a drill chuck clean and well oiled, to prevent broken screws.
To Uncork a Bottle with a String
A convenient method of uncorking a bottle, from which liquid is to be poured frequently, is to thread a strong string or cord through the cork, tying it in a loop, which remains at the opening of the bottle. The cork may be removed easily by drawing on the string. This is more satisfactory than the use of a corkscrew, as the latter frequently tears the cork.--Lee A. Collins, Louisville, Ky.
Wood Turning on an Emery Grinder
The experimenter often requires small turned-wood pulleys, circular bases for switches, etc. To produce these it is not necessary to have recourse to a wood lathe, if a good emery grinder is at hand. Simply clamp the grinder firmly to the workbench, remove the grinding wheel, and fasten on a block to serve as a faceplate. This may be held in place by the nut that holds the wheel and should be trued up with a small chisel when in place. A tool rest may be improvised by temporarily nailing one or more blocks of wood to the bench. The article desired should be first roughed out with a saw and then fastened to the faceplate with screws or brads, after which the actual wood turning will require very little time.
Three Bathroom Kinks
The devices for the bathroom illustrated may be made easily and contribute to the comfort, convenience, and, in the case of the fixed window pole, to the safety of the room. A wall curtain, A, placed on the towel rod, or hung on the wall beside the washbasin, is especially convenient in keeping the walls unsoiled by children who make use of the room and are likely to splash suds while washing. Double roller shades on the window, as at B and C, give light and privacy as well.
Poor ventilation in bathrooms occasionally causes asphyxiation and is often a menace. The permanent fixing of the window pole D makes it convenient to open the window, which operation is often neglected through fear of drafts from the lower sash and the lack of a pole. Fig. 2 shows the top of the pole P, provided with a screw eye, S, which is fastened to a metal strip, H.--D. L. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.
Prevents Soiling Goods after Oiling Sewing Machine
To prevent a sewing machine that has been oiled from soiling the material, the following is a good method: Tie a small piece of ribbon or cotton string around the needle bar near the point at which it grips the needle.
Pigeon houses need not be eyesores, as is often the case, but may be made to harmonize with the surroundings, adding beauty to a dull spot, and even making the grounds of a home more attractive. The house described will accommodate 20 pigeons, and additional stories of the same type may be added to provide for more. Nearly all of the wood necessary may be obtained from boxes, and the other materials are also readily available at small cost. The construction is such that a boy handy with ordinary carpentry tools may undertake it successfully.
The house is constructed in general on principles used in buildings, having a framed gable roof, rough-boarded and shingled. The interior arrangement is original, being based on the Indian swastika or good-luck sign. While the construction is simple, it must be carried out systematically. The process outlined also follows in general the typical methods in building construction.
The foundation need not be considered, since the house rests upon a post, and the construction thus begins with the lower story. The floor and the ceiling are similar in construction, as shown in Fig. 1. In framing them into the lower story, as may be observed in Fig. 8, the cleats are placed below on the floor and above in the ceiling. The construction is identical, however. The cleats are fastened to the boards with screws, although nails, clinched carefully, may be used. The 4-in. hole at the center should be made accurately, so as to fit the shoulder portion at the top of the post, shown in Fig. 2. The latter may be cut of a length to suit; about 9 ft. will be found convenient. The notches in the top of the post are to fit the ridge pole and center rafters of the roof frame, as shown in Fig. 10. They should not be made until the house is ready for the roof boards.
The pieces for the compartments, as arranged on the floor in Fig. 3, are made next. Figs. 4 and 5 show the detailed sizes of these pieces, of which four each must be made. The sizes shown must be followed exactly, as they are designed to give the proper space for entrances and to fit around the 4-in. square hole, through which the post is to fit. The pieces marked A, B, and C, in Figs. 4 and 5, correspond to those similarly marked in Fig. 3.
The pieces are nailed together to form the swastika in the following manner:
Mark the pieces A, B, and C, as shown. Measure 4 in. from one end of each piece marked A, and square a pencil line across, 4 in. from the end. Arrange the pieces in pairs. Place one end of one piece against the side of the other piece in the pair, so that the pencil line is even with the end, permitting the 4-in. portion to project. Nail both pairs in this position. Then fit the two parts together to form a 4-in. square in the center, as shown in Fig. 3.
Fit the pieces C to the pieces B at an angle, as shown in Fig. 3, trimming off the projecting corners where the pieces are joined. Nail them together, and they are ready to be fixed to the end of the pieces A, already nailed. By nailing the joined pieces B and C to the end of the pieces A, as shown in Fig. 3, the swastika is completed. Fix it into place, with the center hole exactly over the square hole in the floor, by means of nails or screws driven through the floor.
Two small strips must now be nailed to the floor at each side of the swastika. They should be exactly 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and are to hold the slides, Fig. 9, which shut off the various compartments. The slides are shown hanging by chains in the headpiece of this article, and are shown in place in Fig. 8.
Fix the ceiling into place in the same manner, being careful that the square holes fit together, and that the cleats are on the upper side. Turn the construction over and fix into place the small strips for the slides, as was done on the floor.
The fixed screens, Fig. 6, and the doors, Fig. 7, are constructed similarly. They are built up of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, and vary in size to fit their respective places in the framework. Observe that the fixed screens are ¹⁄₄ in. higher than the doors, and that they are fastened between the ceiling and floor, bracing them. The wire grating is ¹⁄₂-in. square mesh, and is fixed between the pieces of the doors and the screens when they are built up.
The doors are shown secured by combination strap hinges, bent over the baseboard. Plain butts may be used and the lower portion of the hinge covered by the baseboard, a recess being cut to receive the part covered. In the latter instance the doors should be fixed into place immediately after the screens are set. Catches and chains may then be placed on the doors. Next nail the baseboards into place. They are 2¹⁄₂ in. wide and may be mitered at the corners, or fitted together in a square, or butt, joint. The latter joint may be nailed more readily.
The slides, shown in Fig. 9, may now be made and fitted into their grooves. The handles are made of strips of band iron, drilled for screws and bent into the proper shape. It is important that the slides be constructed of three pieces, as shown, so that they will not warp or curve from exposure. The main piece is cut 7³⁄₄ in. long, and the strips, ¹⁄₂ in. square, are nailed on the ends.
The construction of the framing for the roof should next be taken up. This probably requires more careful work than any other part of the pigeon house, yet it is simple, as shown in Fig. 10. Note that the rafters are set upon a frame, or plate as it is called, built up of pieces 3 in. wide. It should be made ¹⁄₄ in. wider and longer on the inside than the ceiling board, so as to fit snugly over it. The joints at the corners are “halved” and nailed both ways. This gives a stronger structure than butting them squarely and nailing them. The end rafters should be fitted in before fixing the others. It is best to make a diagram of the end of the roof framing on a sheet of paper, or a board, and to fit the rafter joints in this way before cutting them. The rafters are then nailed into place.
The “rough boards” to cover the rafters may now be nailed down. They are spaced ¹⁄₂ in. apart so as to permit thorough drying, as is done in larger buildings. They project 2 in. beyond the ends of the plate frame, supporting the rafters. A ¹⁄₂-in. strip is nailed over the ends to give a neat finish. The roof may be shingled, or covered with tar paper, or any roofing material.
Nail a 1-in. strip under each end of the roof and nail the gable ends into place. One gable end is provided with a door, as shown, and the other has an opening fitted with a wire screen of the same size as the door.
The gable story rests on the lower story, and the notches in the top of the post should fit snugly to the ridge and center rafters, as shown in Fig. 10. This will aid in supporting the house firmly. If additional stories are added it would be well to place a post at each corner of the house. The upper story may be removed for cleaning, or for transporting the house.
The post should be sunk into the ground about 2¹⁄₂ ft. and set into a concrete foundation, if convenient. This will insure a more nearly permanent as well as a more rigid support. Care should be taken that the post is set plumb and this can be accomplished if a plumb bob is used. The post should be braced to keep it vertical, particularly if a concrete foundation is poured and tamped around it.
The construction should be painted two coats, inside and out, of a color to harmonize with buildings or other surroundings.
The cost of building the house shown in the illustration was $3.50 and by using tar paper for the roof and discarded wire mesh, hinges, and other fittings, this may be reduced considerably.
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¶In matching molding into corners it is often difficult to make miter joints. The molding may then be “coped” together by matching the end of the piece to be joined to it with the curves or surface of the molding. A coping saw is used in sawing the irregular end.
Roses Tinged Blue by Chemicals
Roses may be colored without any detrimental effect by placing their stems in a solution of 100 cubic centimeters of water, 2 grams of saltpeter, and 2 grams of an aniline dye. A centerpiece of roses colored to represent the national colors was made in this way and proved very effective as a table decoration. A convenient way to color the flowers is to place their stems in a test tube containing the mixture.--Contributed by Chester Keene, Hoboken, N. J.
Making Photographic Trays
Serviceable trays for use in developing and printing photographs may be made quickly of cardboard boxes of suitable sizes. Where one is unable to transport readily a full photographic equipment these trays will prove convenient as well as inexpensive. They are made as follows:
Procure boxes of proper sizes and see that they have no holes or openings at the corners. Melt paraffin and pour it into the box, permitting it to cover both outside and inside surfaces. If the paraffin hardens too rapidly the box may be heated and the work completed.--Contributed by Paul A. Baumeister, Flushing, N. Y.
Camp Lantern Made of a Tin Can
Campers, and others who have need of an emergency lantern, may be interested in the contrivance shown in the sketch, which was used in preference to other lanterns and made quickly when no light was at hand. It consists of an ordinary tin can, in the side of which a candle has been fixed. A ring of holes was punched through the metal around the candle and wires were placed at the opposite side for a support. The glistening interior of the can reflects the light admirably.--Contributed by F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.
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¶Interior woodwork may be made proof against ordinary flame by coating it with silicate of soda, known as water glass.
Sidecar for a Parcel-Delivery Bicycle
BY P. P. AVERY
Quick delivery of small packages within a two-mile radius can be accomplished with a bicycle by a sturdy boy. An ordinary bicycle is used, preferably one with coaster brake and mudguards. Iron braces, ¹⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ in., are shaped to make the framework, and the ends are looped to fasten around the frame of the bicycle and the supporting fork of the third wheel. This wheel is a bicycle front wheel with a fork. A mudguard on the third wheel is desirable. Make the iron parts as detailed, and fasten them into place. The body is made of ⁷⁄₈-in. wood, preferably oak. The upper portion of the body is cut to receive the top brace, which is not in the way in loading or unloading the packages. Fasten the box with ¹⁄₄-in. carriage bolts, using a spring washer under the nut wherever a joint is made between wood and iron. A canvas cover can be cut to fit the top and secured at one end only, with three catch knobs on the sides and corresponding eyelets in the canvas, keeping the dust and rain from the interior of the body.
It is a good plan to stiffen the body with corner braces, using ¹⁄₈ by ³⁄₄-in. band iron. The floor of the body should be strongly fastened, tongue-and-groove boards being used, and the side corners should be fitted with iron braces at the bottom. The body may be extended farther over the rear, if more loading space is required.
One coat of priming and one of paint finishes the box, and with the name of the merchant on the front and rear, the whole makes a neat advertising feature. Regarding the selection of a bicycle, since great speed is not essential, the lower the gearing is, the easier it will be to propel the load, and for ordinary work, where only small grades are covered, a gear of about 65 will be found efficient.
Handy Use for Adhesive Tape
Adhesive tape is useful in the shop and for the home mechanic, for many purposes: to mend broken handles temporarily; to bind up a cut finger; to prevent a hammer or ax handle from slipping in the hands, by applying tape around the handle; for making a ferrule for an awl, chisel, etc.; around the nail set it will keep that tool from jarring the hand; around a lead pencil in the vest pocket as a guard.
A Toy Machine Gun That Fires Wooden Bullets
For use in the mimic battles which most boys like to stage in this war time, an interesting mechanical toy that a boy can easily make of materials picked up in the workshop, is a machine gun having a magazine for wooden bullets, and which can be made as a single or a double-barrel gun. The construction of the single-barrel arrangement is detailed in the sketch and the modification for a double-barrel gun is shown in the smaller diagram. It is a duplicate of the first type, suitably mounted as shown. The gun is fired by turning the crank on the wheel and the bullets can be quickly replaced in the magazine at the top.
The support for the gun is made of wood and braced strongly at the base. The gun proper is set into the top of the vertical piece, as shown, and the magazine, which is bent from a piece of tin to the shape detailed in the sectional view, fits on top of the breach of the gun. The hammer, which drives the bullets, is made of a piece of stiff wire bent to the shape shown. The lower curved end is connected to a small nail set on a block at the shaft of the wheel. To fire the gun, the hammer is drawn back by contact with the small nails set into the side of the wheel. As the wheel is turned, the nails grip the hammer and then suddenly release it, driving out the lowest bullet each time. The bullets are piled in the magazine, as shown in the detailed view at the right, where the rear view of the gun barrel is indicated.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Washington.
Using Plate Holder as Printing Frame
A cumbersome part of a commercial photographer’s equipment when “on the road” is his set of printing frames. Amateur photographers who have cameras using plates of more than one size find these frames an expensive part of their outfits. A method that is practical and inexpensive for these requirements in many cases, is as follows: Place the sensitized paper in the plate holder with the emulsion side up. Then put the plate in the holder in the same way as if about to expose it in a camera, but with the emulsion side down, so that the sensitized side of the paper and the emulsion side of the plate are in contact. The paper and plate are thus held in close contact without the use of springs, as in the regular printing frames. The plate and paper can be removed by pressing the spring catch at the bottom of the holder, and the plate is not easily moved while in place.--Francis W. Clinton, Brooklyn, New York.
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¶Leaks in garden hose may be repaired by wrapping several layers of adhesive tape over the break, lapping the edges carefully.
Wire Clips Weight Paper in Typewriter
Three wire paper clips linked together make a good weight for typewriter sheets that keep rolling or blowing back over the carriage, into the operator’s way, in a breezy office or where a fan is not properly stationed. They may be quickly applied to the end of the sheet, or batch of paper and carbon sheets, and removed as easily, saving time and annoyance.--H. P. Roy, Kansas City, Mo.
Chain Weight Prevents Whipping of Flag
A length of chain, sewed into a hem at the lower edge of a flag makes an inconspicuous and effective weight to prevent whipping of a flag suspended from a horizontal staff. A piece of cord can be threaded through the links of a chain to prevent it from rattling, if necessary.
Poultry-Fence Construction Economical of Netting
Not wanting to put a high poultry netting on my fence to keep my poultry at home, I devised the method shown, and was thus enabled to use 24-in. wire instead of 48-in., thereby effecting a saving, as well as not marring the appearance of the fence. Chickens will not attempt to fly over this wire but once or twice, as they endeavor to alight on the pickets of the fence instead of the wire, and consequently are thrown back by striking the wire. The wire should be supported at each post, as shown in the sketch.--Roy H. Poston, Flat River, Mo.
A Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made in Box Form
What boy does not enjoy a regular snowball fight--a battle, in fact--especially when he has a fort of his own building to defend, and his friends have one which he wants to capture? A way to build a snow fort that will not crumble easily when the enemy charges it is to pack the snow into a box form and build the structure of the snow blocks, as shown in the photograph. Portholes can be provided and when the snow melts slightly, and freezes again, a very solid wall results. The form for the block, as detailed in the sketch, is made of a box, arranged so that it is hinged at one corner and has a catch at the corner diagonally opposite. The form is set on a wooden board and when the snow is packed in solidly, the catch is opened and the form lifted away from the block. It is then carried into position and another block made on the same board. Several boards are handy in making the block quickly.--H. S., Chicago, Ill.
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¶In applying varnish over an old wood surface, or on new wood that has become soiled, care should be taken to remove all traces of oil or grease with benzine.
Model Steam Tractor Made by Boy
Boys, and others who like to make models, may be interested in a small steam tractor I designed and built of scrap materials around the farm shop. I used only the ordinary tools on hand in such a place. The steam engine and tractor run smoothly, and the engine propels the tractor just like a large machine of this kind. The tractor is 28 in. long and 14 in. high, and the boiler holds 1¹⁄₄ gal. The bore of the cylinder is ⁷⁄₈ in. and its stroke 1³⁄₄ in. It was made from an old iron window weight. I use wood and coal to fire the boiler, and steam can be got up in a few minutes.--Albert H. Bennington, Park River, N. D.
Toboggan Made of Old Buggy Shafts
A method of making a strong toboggan sled by nailing a suitable bottom over sections cut from old buggy shafts, as shown in the sketch, can be adapted easily for use with poles of about the same size. They can be steamed and bent at the ends and the construction otherwise made as shown. The shafts were cut to the length indicated, the curved front end being sawed off. The bottom was carried up around the curved rear end, and a strong bracing strip was bolted across them. One-half-inch rope with leather loops provided handholds, and was also used as a brace at each side of the front of the sled. Twisted wire may also be used for this purpose. Cushions of the usual type can easily be made for the toboggan.
Bicycles Driven as Three-Wheel Tandem after Breakdown
On a bicycle trip, when about five miles from town, the front axle of my partner’s bicycle broke, and as neither of us wanted to walk, we had to find some way of getting us both home. We removed the front wheel from one of the bicycles, and set the front fork on the rear axle of the undamaged machine, as shown in the sketch. The axle was just long enough so that the sides of the fork could be bolted securely. By careful riding we made the distance to town with only the slight inconvenience of my partner having to carry the extra wheel on his back--J. F. G., Mountain Grove, Mo.
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¶Do not touch the inner surface of a tent or shelter in the rain, as the water will drip from the spot touched.
Test Exposures for Bromide Enlargements
To avoid expensive waste of paper in making large bromide enlargements the following device is useful: Cut an oblong sheet of stiff cardboard, 5¹⁄₄ by 4 in., with a central opening, measuring 3³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₂ in. Along the lower edge of the central opening mark off five spaces of ³⁄₄ in. each, and number them from 1 to 5. Glue a strip of cardboard, 1 in. wide, at the top and the bottom of the oblong, on the back. Now glue a second strip of cardboard over each of those just attached, making the second strips slightly wider to form grooves similar to those in a sliding-top box.
Cut a piece of cardboard, wide enough to slide easily in these grooves, and about 7 in. long. In the center of it, cut an opening, 1¹⁄₂ in. long and ³⁄₄ in. wide, with the longer dimension extending across the strip. By inserting this slide into the grooves, the opening in it may be shifted to correspond to any of the five ³⁄₄-in. indications at the lower edge of the opening in the oblong frame.
Focus the enlargement on the easel and put the cap on the lens. Then pin a 1¹⁄₂-in. strip of bromide paper where a good range of detail will fall upon it. Pin the oblong card over the bromide strip and make five successive exposures, of increasing duration, by sliding the strip so that its opening is opposite the number indications on the oblong. Note the particulars of exposure at the time and later develop the strip of bromide paper. Suppose the exposures were of 8, 16, 24, 32, and 40 seconds’ duration, and upon development it was found that the first and second exposures were much underexposed and that the fifth was overexposed; the third and fourth being only slightly under and overexposed, respectively. Then the mean of these two, that is 24 plus 32 divided by 2, or 28 seconds, will be approximately the correct exposure. The use of this device will effect a considerable saving.--H. J. Gray, Lewes, Sussex, England.
Scale on Vaulting Pole Indicates Points of Grip
Unnecessary delay in running off the pole-vaulting events at athletic meets is caused by the repeated testing of vaulters for the proper height at which to grip the vaulting pole. This was readily overcome by marking intervals of 1 ft. on the upper end of the vaulting poles. Vaulters judge the proper height once and thereafter may easily take the same grip with the aid of the indications on the pole.--A. B. Wegener, Madison, N. J.
Current of Canal Raises Irrigation Water
The current of a canal was utilized to raise water for irrigation purposes, and other uses, by means of the homemade device shown in the illustration. A large-size buggy wheel was set on an old axle, and extensions were fixed to eight of the spokes. Paddles, 9 by 18 in. in size, were secured to the extensions, and uniform-size tin cans were fixed to the paddles, as shown. The current revolved the wheel, carrying the loaded buckets upward, and the water was thus poured from them into a wide trough braced on the platform. A flume led the water to the irrigation ditches, and pipes were used to conduct some of it to the ranch house for general purposes. When the water is not desired for useful purposes the trough is withdrawn and the water drops into the canal.--Joseph Gray, Heber, Calif.
Protecting an Air Pump against Denting
The brass cylinders of many tire pumps are made of thin metal, and a slight blow may dent them. Such injuries interfere with the action of the plunger, making the pump almost useless. A case which will afford protection to the pump is shown in the sketch. It was made of two strips of wood cored out on the inner sides to fit the pump and provided with small hinges and hooks, to lock it into place.
A Feather as an X-Ray Lens
The outline of the bones in the hand may be seen by holding it before a strong light and looking through a lens made of a piece cut from the tip of a feather. The sketch shows such a lens, which is mounted in a small piece of cardboard that may be carried in the pocket, and which affords diversion wherever exhibited.
The device is made as follows: Procure a soft white feather from a fowl, and cut off the tip as indicated in the upper sketch. Cut a piece of cardboard, about 2 in. wide and 6 in. long. Fold it to form a folder, 3 in. long, and cut a hole, ¹⁄₄ in. in diameter, through both parts of it. Glue the tip of the feather between the folder at the hole, taking care that the fibers lie flat and that no rib is exposed. Glue the edges of the folder, and the device is ready for use. Hold the hand, or other object, to be examined about 15 in. from the lens, and place the latter close to the eye. Looking through the hole toward an electric, or other strong, light, it will be observed that the bones of the hand, for example, may be seen clearly. They will be outlined with a band of varicolored light. A frosted globe is better than one which exposes a filament.--Leander L. Droesch, Chickasaw, Ohio.
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¶A safety-razor blade, fitted into a wooden handle, provides a convenient tool for ripping seams and cutting cardboard.
Guard Saves Wear on Vest
Bookkeepers and others who work close to a desk nearly all day find that unusual wear results on the front of the vest, forcing them to discard their suits sooner than would otherwise be necessary. By providing a strip of cloth of a color to match the goods of which the suit is made and buttoning it across the front of the vest from the lower to the upper button this wear is prevented.--J. A. McGrath, Hancock, Michigan.
Bilge Water Siphoned Through Water-Jacket Outlet
The sketch shows a simple method of removing the bilge water from a motorboat automatically while the engine is in operation. A small pipe is fitted into the outlet from the water jacket, as shown at A, and extended to the bottom of the boat where the bilge water accumulates. A sack is fixed over the end of the pipe to prevent particles of dirt from entering the pipe. The water passing out of the water-jacket outlet causes a siphoning action in the small pipe, and the bilge water is drawn up and passes out of the larger outlet. At the left, in dotted outline, is shown a method of removing the bilge water by permitting it to be drawn up into the pump which supplies the water to the water-jacket. This method is sometimes used, but is satisfactory only when the bilge water can be kept clean, which is difficult.--Francis B. Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.
A Hinged Window Box
A window box arranged to rest in a hinged bracket on the outside of a window, as shown in the sketch, has advantages over the usual method of fixing the box permanently. The box is separate from the supporting frame and may be removed from it. The frame is attached to the window casing by means of T-hinges and is strongly supported by a bracket. When it is desired to clean the window, the device may be swung around and out of the way. This feature is also desirable when it is raining, for the flowers in the box may be watered conveniently in this way.--L. J. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.
Denatured Alcohol to Start Gasoline Stove
Considerable smoke and dirt is caused by the burning of gasoline used to generate gas in starting a gasoline stove. This may be eliminated by keeping an oilcan filled with denatured alcohol convenient to the stove, and filling the starting pan with alcohol instead of gasoline. The spout of the oilcan is also convenient in pouring only a small quantity into the pan.--Spencer A. Pease, Chicago, Ill.
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¶A strip of adhesive tape, fixed to the lower side of a straightedge used for cutting glass, will prevent it slipping.
Playing-Card Holder
While disabled with a broken arm and being anxious to play cards for diversion, I was at a loss to hold my “hand.” I soon devised the card holder shown in the sketch, and found no difficulty keeping in the game. It is made of a strip of wood provided with a groove near the front edge, into which the cards are inserted.--W. E. Thomae, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
Cocoanut-Shell Trays
Trays for holding matches, or other articles, may be made of cocoanut shells by cutting them to appropriate sizes and smoothing the surface to a polish. The tray shown in the sketch was made in this manner, as were a number of match trays which were fitted with small sheet-metal dishes. The outside of the shell is first scraped as smooth as possible, sandpapered, and then oil-polished, producing a beautiful finish.--John F. Long, Springfield, Mo.
Nail Carrier Made of Cans
Four ordinary tin cans, fastened to a wooden block as shown in the illustration, make a serviceable and practical carrier for nails, staples, or similar materials, used in making repairs on the farm or in the shop. The tops of the cans are cut out carefully and the edges smoothed off so as not to injure the hand in removing nails from them. The tops are cut to the shape shown, as attached to the block and provided with a handle, making it convenient to carry the contrivance. If cans are used having covers which may be pried off, the central block should be extended and the handle nailed directly to it.--Dale R. Van Horn, North Loup, Neb.
Stopping Rattle in Motorcycle Stand
Annoyance while traveling over rough roads by the rattling of the rear stand on a motorcycle may be overcome by taping the part of the brace which hooks into a catch at the end of the rear mud guard. The sketch shows a view of the lower portion of the rear wheel with the stand raised and in place in the catch.
Novel Covered Box for Index Trays
The box shown in the sketch is novel in that it provides a nonsliding cover with a minimum of wood for the construction and the use of no extra space for the lid. Where index, or other boxes must be provided in considerable numbers, or stored in a limited space, the saving will be worth while. Index cards, or other material, may fill the box to its upper level without hindering the availability of the cover. The small portions attached to the cover are cut from the side and end pieces.--DeWitt C. Ramsay, Bridgeport, Conn.
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¶Small parts may be soldered conveniently by holding them with a clip made of a piece of clock spring.
A Simple Barometer
A barometer that will indicate weather changes with reasonable accuracy may be made of two bottles. A milk bottle nearly filled with water is used as the container and a smaller bottle fitting snugly into the top is inverted in the mouth of the milk bottle. The mouth of the inverted bottle should extend about an inch below the surface of the water. Weather changes will cause the water to rise and fall in the neck of the inverted bottle.
Removable Posts for Tennis Court
It is sometimes desirable to have tennis-court posts arranged to be easily removed from the lawn or the court when the grass is being mowed, or during the winter. The method of fixing the posts in the ground, as shown in the sketch, makes it convenient to remove the posts and still gives the necessary stability. A square wooden box, tarred to resist the moisture, is placed in the ground, and the post is fitted into it. The upper end of the box is level with the surface, and when the post is removed a wooden block is fitted into the opening. Removal of the posts permits the mowing of the grass close to them and leaves the place free from obstructions when the court is not in use.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.
Lightning Switch for Wireless Aerials
Amateur wireless operators often cannot afford to buy a lightning switch such as is required to ground the aerial when not in use. The sketch shows such a device, which was made of a marble slab fitted with copper strips cut from discarded half-tone plates. The base was smoothed and polished to the size indicated, 4 in. wide and 9 in. long. The upper edges were beveled off, and holes were drilled near the ends through which bolts were passed to fasten the small brackets supporting the crossbar.
The copper pieces were made as follows: The plates of ¹⁄₁₆-in. copper were cut into strips, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide. Two were made 8 in. long; four, 3 in. long, and four, ⁷⁄₈ in. long. The 8-in. strips were fastened together with small bolts and a hole was drilled through one end of the joined pieces to fit the bolt which forms the pivot for the switch. The 3-in. strips were bent to form a ³⁄₄-in. angle, through which holes were bored for fastening to the base. The ⁷⁄₈-in. strips were clamped between the brackets at their lower ends to provide a slot for the crossbar. The bolts, by which the brackets were clamped together, were provided with binding nuts to which the wires were connected. A handle might be fixed to the crossbar, but this is not essential.
Stenciling with Photographic Films
Photographic films make excellent material from which to cut stencils for use in marking show cards, placards, etc., as well as for other uses to which stencils are put. Pictures, or other designs to be stenciled, may be pasted to the film and the outline cut, care being taken that the design is adapted for stenciling. This is important, since frequently binding strips must be left in the design in order to make it possible to cut a satisfactory stencil from it. The films are used with the rough side down, to prevent them from slipping. A variety of subjects for stencil design may be adapted from pictures clipped from publications or other sources.--Robert Smith, New Westminster, B. C., Canada.
A Gas-Stove Lighter
For lighting the gas stove, matches are not only untidy but inconvenient. In lieu thereof I use a simple affair consisting of a wood handle with a large nail set in the end, with which it is only necessary to touch the burner in order to start a flame. There is nothing to wear out and no parts to renew. Furthermore this gas lighter uses only one wire--a fact that is apt to strike a person as being rather unusual on first thought. However, if the reader will connect one terminal of a 60-watt lamp with the gas main or to the gas stove and then touch the other terminal successively with each of the two ends of the live wires it will be found that the lamp will light up with one terminal but not with the other, for the reason that one side of the circuit is usually grounded at most electric-light plants as a precaution against lightning.
All that is necessary to get a spark is to provide a suitable resistance coil with an iron core, so that the fuse will not be blown and to secure sufficient inductance to get a hot spark. The writer uses an ordinary 50-ohm telephone induction coil, in which the primary and secondary are placed in series by the diagonal connection indicated in the sketch. Almost any coil or electromagnet of 25-ohm resistance, or more, connected in a circuit will prove safe and give a hot spark. Place the coil in some out-of-the-way corner, and run one strand of the usual flexible cord to the handle, which should be hung at some convenient point at the right-hand side of the stove. Let the handle itself be long enough so that there will be no tendency to catch hold of the metal point. Run the flexible cord through the center and out at the lower end, into which a wire nail with the head removed is driven. Solder the wire to the nail, and the lighter is ready.
For lighting Bunsen burners, and other fixtures using rubber tubing, a small wire may be run down the center of the tubing so as to ground the burner, or else a small surface on the workbench may be covered with tin and this grounded, so that it is only necessary to set the burner thereon to get a light.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Arizona.
To Stop Rattling of Windows
Annoyance from the rattling of windows may be overcome by attaching a small block to the side of the window casing so that it will engage the sash and hold it firmly. The block should be of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, about 3 in. long, 1 in. wide, and have one end rounded off. A screw is fixed through the block near the rounded end and driven into the window casing at such a point that when the block is turned upward on its pivot the rounded end will act like a cam and force the sash firmly against its grooves.
Practical Bracket for Garden Hose
Care in the storage of a garden hose will pay the owner in the longer life of it, and the homemade bracket shown in the sketch suggests a convenient method of caring for the hose. A portion of a barrel was sawed off at one of the hoops, and after reinforcing it by nailing the hoops and inserting shelves, it was nailed to the wall. The hose may be coiled over it in shape to be easily carried to the lawn or garden, for use. The shelves provide space for an oilcan for the lawn mower, and other accessories.
Making Filing Envelopes Quickly
Folders in which large cards, calendars, posters, etc., are commonly mailed may be utilized to make convenient filing cases. Envelopes of the type shown in the sketch, with leatherboard and cord fasteners for holding the flaps together, may be cut to a uniform size or used in any smaller size desired, and, by gluing the flaps A and B, will provide serviceable containers. Small tools or other objects likely to injure a single-thickness folder, or drop out of it, may be stored in double envelopes made in this way.
Yardstick on Tool Rack
I have derived considerable satisfaction from the use of a yardstick fitted above my workbench. A plug of brass, having a center-punch mark, was inserted at the zero point on the yardstick. This is convenient in setting dividers and other instruments. Below the plug was fixed a small brass angle, set so that its inner face was at the zero point. This is useful in measuring pieces from a finished end. If the end of the yardstick is at the zero point it is necessary to attach a small extension to take the brass plug.--V. A. Rettich, Hollis, N. Y.
Bicycle Runner for Winter Use
A bicycle may be used with satisfactory results in winter by arranging a runner under the front wheel, which is lashed to the fork as indicated in the sketch. The mudguard is used as a runner by releasing it and dropping it to the position shown. It is then tied securely to the rim of the wheel and the wheel is tied at the top to the fork. This idea may be adapted by providing a special runner of sheet metal, making it unnecessary to wear the mudguard.--C. H. McCaslin, Portland, Ore.
Homemade Snowshoe Toe Clips
The uppers from a pair of worn-out shoes may be made into a serviceable set of toe clips for snowshoes by cutting them off, as shown in the sketch, and fitting them to the lacing of the snowshoes. The clip is fastened in place by passing the tying strap through slots in the former, under the lacing of the snowshoe, and then around the ankle in the usual manner of fastening.--Richard F. Lufkin, Dorchester, Mass.
Mounting Tracing-Cloth Drawings on Muslin
Tracings mounted on muslin will give long wear and are more satisfactory in handling than the unmounted drawings. The method of mounting them is as follows: Stretch a piece of starched muslin, slightly larger than the drawing, on a flat, smooth board, fastening it with tacks. Coat the back of the tracing with a good varnish, and place it, face down, on a flat surface so that it may partly dry and become tacky, which usually takes two hours. Place the tracing upon the stretched muslin, varnished side down, and place a smooth sheet of wrapping paper over it. Using a moderately warm flatiron, and beginning at the center of the tracing, iron toward the edges, applying moderate pressure. To remove the tracing from the cloth, it is necessary to warm the cloth with the iron and strip the tracing and cloth apart gradually.--John W. Grantland, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Sandpapering Square Edges on Small Machine Bases
The woodwork of small electrical or experimental machines and devices often detracts from the workmanship because proper care is not taken in finishing the edges. To smooth off the ends of a small baseboard squarely, proceed as follows: Square up a piece of 2 by 4-in. stock, 1 ft. long; place a flat sheet of sandpaper on the bench and set the 1-ft. block on top of it, holding it in place with the left hand. Hold the piece to be squared up firmly against the block and rub it on the sandpaper. A square edge of smooth finish will result. The edges should, of course, be planed as smoothly as possible before sanding in this way.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
Enlarged Lantern Pictures as Guides for Scenic Painting
Scenery for a home-talent theatrical performance was required, and since the services of an expert in that line were not available, an interesting method of obtaining satisfactory sketches for the figures and other objects in the background was devised. Colored lantern slides of scenes suitable for the purpose were selected and projected upon the canvas to be painted, as shown in the illustration. The outlines were drawn around the projected figures, making them as accurate as the original, and far better than would have been possible otherwise by an amateur painter. The colors were applied following the original model, with satisfactory results. By the use of various portions of slides, it was possible to place figures and outdoor effects on the background which was obtained from the first slide used. A factor which must be considered in using this method is that the picture on the canvas will be reversed as to right and left positions compared with the original, if a direct-reflection projector of the type used with post cards is employed.--Thomas R. Milligan, Fort Worth, Texas.
Three-Caster Truck for Moving Crates and Furniture
A convenient truck for handling heavy objects, especially in the home where commercial devices for this purpose are not available, is shown in the illustration. It consists of a frame built up of three 1¹⁄₄ by 2 by 14-in. strips, fixed to a disk, ⁷⁄₈ by 12 in. in size. Revolving casters are mounted under the ends of the arms, giving great freedom of movement in transporting loads. The three-caster arrangement is better than the use of four casters, because it accommodates itself to irregularities in the floor.--Armydas E. Sturdivant, Muncie, Ind.
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¶The burner of an acetylene bicycle lamp, fitted to an ordinary gas jet, will produce a very hot flame.
Inserting or Correcting on Typewritten Bound Sheets
It is frequently necessary that typewritten insertions or corrections be made in papers which have been typed and bound, usually by rivets along the top edge. It is difficult to remove the rivets and replace them satisfactorily. To make such insertions, feed a blank sheet of paper into the typewriter until its feeding edge is even with the upper edge of the guide fingers. Then insert the bottom edge of the sheet on which the correction is to be made, underneath the sheet already in the machine; reverse-feed the sheet to be corrected into the typewriter. Corrections may then be made in the usual manner.--A. J. Cook, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Tire Pump Made of Gas Piping
A tire pump actuated by the explosions in the cylinder of an automobile engine, and made of materials easily obtainable, is shown in detail in the illustration. A section of iron pipe of a diameter to fit one of the ports, and about 4 in. long, as shown in Fig. 2, is provided with a reducer, a tee, and two caps. The inside of the pipe is turned up true in a lathe and fitted with a piston, the head for which is shown in Fig. 1. The head is built up of a wooden drum, washers, and leather packing disks. The washers should be slightly smaller in diameter than the chamber, and the leather disks make it air-tight.
The tee is provided with two valves, as shown in the detail sectional view, Fig. 3, the upper ball valve retaining the pressure in the pipe line, and the other valve admitting air above the piston. The ball valve has a seat of lead, and a ribbed fitting is fixed to the pipe cap above it, to provide a fastening for the hose. The cap of the other valve is fitted with a spring, adjustable on a threaded pin.
A light spring fixed to the upper side of the piston, as shown in Fig. 2, forces the piston back to its lower position after the force of the explosion in the cylinder has acted upon it. The cylinder of the pump should be oiled, and a reinforced rubber hose should be used to conduct the air under pressure to the tire.
The operation is simple: The initial stroke of the engine cylinder draws the piston down, bringing in a charge of air from the valve ports at the side of the tee; the following compression and explosion strokes drive it back, forcing the air out of the ball valve, as the other valve closes on the upstroke of the piston. A large tire may be pumped up with this device in from five to ten minutes.
Aid in Ruling Uniform Cards or Sheets
When a number of cards or sheets are to be ruled with either horizontal or vertical divisions, the following method will be found a timesaver: Rule one of the cards as a sample. Place it on the drawing board with its lower edge set against two thumb tacks driven part way in. Rule extensions of the lines on the card to a sheet of paper fastened to the board under the card. Set a third thumb tack at the right edge of the card as a guide. By placing the cards to be ruled against the three thumb tacks in the position of the original card, the rulings may be made quickly with the marks on the paper backing as guides.--W. P. Shaw, Stratford, Can.
Tinned Staples for Bell-Circuit Wiring
Inexpensive and practical staples for binding wires used in bell circuits, or for similar purposes, may be made from a strip of tinned sheet metal, about ¹⁄₂ in. wide. The strip is cut on the sides, as indicated in the sketch, and the squares are broken off as needed. They may be bent quickly to the shape shown, and are used by placing them over the wire and driving the points into the wall or other support. If properly made, they will not injure the covering of the wire and are more satisfactory than wire staples.
Asbestos Table Mats Reinforced with Wire Netting
Ordinarily heavy pieces of sheet asbestos are used for the mats placed under hot dishes on the dining table. These are easily broken if bent, and a simple method of overcoming this breakage is to make mats as follows: Cut two pieces of sheet asbestos, each about one-half the thickness of that usually used, one having about ³⁄₄ in. around the edge which may be used as a binder in pasting the sheets together. Cut notches into this edge, at intervals of about 2 in., and insert a disk of wire window screening between the pieces of asbestos. Turn the edges of the larger piece over and paste in place.
Device for Corrugating Strips
Having a sheet-metal cog rail to make for the adjusting mechanism of an enlarging screen, I built a cog-forming device as shown in the sketch. A block of wood served as the case and two levers with hinges were fixed to one end of it. Two pieces of hardwood were grooved at their ends as shown in the smaller sketch, to fit over three tenpenny nails, A, held in place on the block by staples. Four small nails, B, were set into the block, as shown, to act as guides for the strip of metal, which was fed between the forming blocks and the nails on the case. By pressing down on the hinge levers, the strip was formed into corrugations or teeth. In order to make the teeth uniform it was necessary to guide the forming pieces by having one of the cogs fit over the first nail. The strip thus formed was fixed to a wooden piece and served as a cog rail.--R. E. Henderson, Walla Walla, Washington.
Birch-Bark Leggings Made in the Woods
An excellent pair of leggings for use in brush and forest land can be made in a few minutes from birch bark cut in the woods. Select a suitable tree, about 6 or 8 in. in diameter, and cut into the heavy bark to obtain two rolls around the circumference of the tree, taking care not to cut deep enough to injure it. Fit these sections around the legs leaving 6-in. portions overlapping. Trim the bark to the proper shape and soak it in water to soften the grain. Place the bark close to the fire until it curls. The leggings are then ready for use.
Stretcher for Drying Small Fur Hides
Small hides should be dried over a stretcher to give the best results, and the device shown in the sketch will be found useful for this purpose. It is made of two strips of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, hinged at the pointed end. Small holes are drilled into the upper surface at the other ends and adjustment is made by means of a wire bent at the ends and inserted in the holes.--Elmer Tetzlaff, East DePere, Wis.
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¶Wire mesh is useful for drawer bottoms in tool cases where dirt is likely to accumulate.
Reel for Use with Seed-Planting Guide String
Many gardeners derive as much pleasure from the orderly arrangement of the plants in their “farms” as from any other feature of this home diversion, and I am one of them. In order to facilitate the planting I made a reel like that shown in the sketch. The frame is of wood, and the reel is made of a piece of broomstick to which two small tins, or box covers, are nailed. A wire handle made of a long nail is fitted to one end, and a shoulder hook is used as a stop for the handle when it is desired to check the line. A screw eye driven into the back of the frame holds it at various heights on the stake. This device is far superior to the common use of two stakes for the planting cord.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pennsylvania.
Kinks on the Care of Umbrellas
Deriving long use from an umbrella depends in part on proper selection, care of the cloth and frame, and precautions against loss or theft. A silk cover is desirable to shed rain, and a cotton one for a sunshade. The hot sun dries out the silk and heats the metal ribs under it, quickly destroying it. If silk is used for sun protection, wet the cover occasionally. Always set an umbrella to dry, handle down if there is not space to dry it open.
A broad ribbon loop on the handle of a woman’s umbrella permits carrying it on the wrist and prevents forgetting it. An umbrella with a removable handle can be folded into a suitcase, and putting the handle in the pocket when leaving the umbrella in any public place makes it less liable to theft. An umbrella should bear the name and address of the owner.
A Bell-Ringing Mail Box
The annoyance of watching for the arrival of the mailman was overcome by the fitting of an electrical alarm to the mail box, as shown in the sketch. A strip of metal, A, was pivoted in the box and weighted on one end. A bell, B, was wired to dry cells in the box below the container for the mail. When the mail is dropped in the box the end A is forced down, forming an electrical contact and completing the circuit from the cells C through the wire D and back through the wire E. When the mail is removed the weight raises the metal strip.--James E. Noble, Portsmouth, Canada.
A Simple Polarity Indicator
An ordinary compass, fitted flush in a wooden frame as shown in the sketch forms the basis for the polarity indicator described. The N, or north, and S, or south, points of the compass should run lengthwise with the frame with the former on the end farthest from the binding posts, C and D. Five turns of No. 18 gauge, or any similar wire are wound lengthwise around the frame and over the compass. The ends of the wires terminate at the two binding posts. Begin at C and wind toward the compass, binding the wire at D.
If the two ends of a wire are free, and it is desired to know whether there is any current present, and if so, its polarity, fasten one wire to the post C and the other to D. Before connecting the wires, hold the compass and frame in such a way that the needle is over the N point on the compass dial. If, after the wires are connected, the needle moves, there is a current flowing. If the needle is deflected toward the east, the negative wire is on C; if it is deflected toward the west, the positive wire is on C.
When it is desired to ascertain the polarity of a wire, which is covered by a floor, ceiling, or molding, hold the compass as explained, and either directly above or below the wire. Then turn on the current. If the instrument is above the wire, the wire extending parallel with it north and south, and the needle is deflected toward the west, the current is flowing from the north to the south end of the wire. If the wire runs east and west and the needle is deflected to the west, the current is running from west to east.
If the wire runs on a diagonal between the directions mentioned, and the needle is deflected toward the west, he current is flowing from the quadrant between N and W on the compass dial toward the quadrant between S and E. If the instrument is held over the wire and the needle is deflected toward E, the polarity is the opposite to that last indicated. Should the instrument be held below the wire, if the needle goes toward W, it is equivalent to going toward E when above the wire.--H. Sterling Parker, Brooklyn, New York.
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¶If the white of an egg is used to seal an envelope which has no mucilage on the flap, it cannot be opened by steaming it.
Flash Light Used as a Bedroom Night Light
To save groping about in the dark for my flash light when suddenly awakened in the night, I devised the arrangement shown in the sketch and by which a “flash” is used as a wall night light, without lessening its common uses. The holder B and the board A are of wood, and into the box is fitted a metal clip, C, to hold the light. A round hole of proper size is cut through the top of the box and the light set through it so that the bottom end rests in the clip, the tin ferrule pressing against it firmly. A light spring, D, makes contact with the upper terminal of the push switch without closing it. The apparatus is fastened to the wall, and insulated wires, soldered, one to the clip C, and the other to the spring D, are connected to a switch placed in a convenient position. This switch replaces that on the light. The ceiling serves to reflect and distribute the light rays.--B. L. Dobbins, Harwich, Mass.
Pie-Plate Gas Heater
A satisfactory gas heater to take the chill out of the air in a small room by fitting a pie plate over a gas burner was made by me, as shown in the sketch. The wires which formerly held the glass shade were fitted into holes punched in the rim of the plate. It could thus be removed quickly when not needed and the glass shade put back in place.--Morris Tinsky, Chicago, Illinois.
A Folding Table with Split-Bamboo Tray for Top
A folding table frame, designed as a support for a circular split-bamboo tray, is shown in the photographs reproduced and detailed in the working drawing. It is a serviceable and inexpensive piece of furniture, and can be constructed readily by the home mechanic. As the trays vary in size, the frame must be made to correspond, those from 24 to 28 in. in diameter being satisfactory. The tray may be made by the ambitious craftsman or purchased at stores dealing in Oriental goods. A wooden top may, of course, be substituted. The frame is made preferably of soft wood. The following finished pieces are required for a 24-in. tray: 4 legs, ⁷⁄₈ by 3 by 30 in.; 4 crosspieces, 1 by 2 by 25 in. Mortise the legs to the ends of the crosspieces, one set of mortises being ⁷⁄₈ in. below the other. Assemble the parts and fasten the joints with glue and 2-in. flat-head screws, countersunk.
Adjust the crosspieces of each set so that their centers match, and fasten them in this position with screws, from the under side. The two parts of the frame revolve on them when the table is “knocked down.” On the ends of the lower crosspieces of each set, fasten blocks to level the support for the tray. Finish the frame to harmonize with the furniture of the room. Conceal the screw heads under bands of hammered or oxidized copper, fastened with copper or brass pins. A second tray may be placed on the lower crosspieces.--F. E. Tuck, Nevada City, Calif.
Small Desk Lamp Supported by Paper Weight
Those who wish a small desk light that may be pushed back out of the way in the daytime, will find the accompanying sketch of interest. When in use on a roll-top desk, the lamp is placed on top near the edge, so that the bulb overhangs. A 25-watt lamp will light the bed of the desk, and the small metal shade is so placed that no part of the bulb is visible to the eye of the worker. By providing a suitable base, the lamp may be adapted to other uses. A stock paper weight, about 2 in. in diameter and covered with green felt, was used as a base. An ordinary drop-cord socket is provided, and to one side of the top cap a strip of brass, ¹⁄₁₆ by ¹⁄₂ in., is soldered. A hole is drilled near the end of this strip so that the screw which holds the knob will also hold the socket. Connect the flexible cord in the usual manner.
The shade is made of sheet metal, bent in the form of a cone, having the front shorter than the opposite edge. Make a sketch of the bulb, and determine the lengths of the two sides A and B, and then draw two concentric circles of corresponding radii on paper, as indicated in the small diagram. The proper curve for the shade will then lie between these two circles. Cut a paper pattern, and form it into a cone. After the proper shape is determined, mark it on the metal, cut it to shape, and solder it. A small spring clip, C, engages the tip of the bulb; the back of the shade is held by a piece of spring wire, D. It is easy to spring the shade off in replacing the bulb. The outside of the shade should be enameled an olive-green.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Arizona.
Device Frightens Flies at Screen Door
An effective means of frightening flies away from a screen door may be made from a spring curtain rod and cotton duck. Scallops of 8-oz. duck, 6 in. long, are fastened to the pole, on opposite sides, as shown. The ratchet on the end of the pole is arranged so as not to catch. A small cord is wound around the pole and fastened to the screen door. The rod supports are fixed near the top of the door frame.--Josef H. Noyes, Paris, Tex.
Porch Swing Made from Automobile Seat
When an obsolete type of automobile was converted into a truck for marketing purposes, a leather-upholstered seat, discarded, was utilized as an attractive and comfortable porch swing. Hooks were secured to the front corners of the seat and to the upper edge of the back, for the chains attached to suitable supports.--George L. Ayers, Washington, D. C.
Linoleum Panels for a Homemade Chest
A strong packing box was converted into a useful and not unsightly chest by covering it with panels of linoleum left over from a job of covering a floor. Strips, ¹⁄₂ by 2 in. wide, were nailed around the corners of the box to form a panel on the top, sides, and ends. The wood and the linoleum were shellacked, and made a good appearance.
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¶The lower corner of an envelope may be used as a small funnel.
Camera for Bird Photography
A reasonably large image must be obtained in photographing bird life, or the details of plumage and identification are lost, reducing the value of the pictures. The “gun camera” shown in the photograph was devised for this purpose, and with it exposures may be made more quickly than with the telephoto type of camera, a feature of great value in this class of photography. The device consists of an ordinary reflecting-type camera, mounted on a carriage for ready portability and quick adjustment. The bellows is supplemented with a tube, permitting the use of lenses of upward of 30-in. extreme focus. This gives a larger image without loss in speed. A ¹⁄₄-in. image of a bird was obtained with a 7¹⁄₂-in. extreme-focus lens, as against a 2-in. image with one of 30-in. focus, from the same position. The lens is set near the rear end of the tube, giving a deep hood for shading the sunlight. Lenses of an old type, known as “Long Toms,” were used. They are inexpensive compared with newer types with iris diaphragms, and give good results even at ¹⁄₁,₀₀₀ exposures.--Arthur Farland, New Orleans, La.
Electric Fan an Aid to Heating Room
The electric fan is useful not only for cooling the air in summer, but also for distributing the warm air to advantage in the winter. An efficient way of warming a room fairly uniformly is to place an electric fan near a radiator, so that its breeze passes through the heating coils, or near another source of heat. The heat is circulated around the room, instead of being kept in a limited area.--Peter J. M. Clute, Schenectady, N. Y.
Cat-and-Bells Scarecrow
A scarecrow resembling a living animal is often more effective than other devices, and the cat-and-bells arrangement shown in the sketch was found especially so. The hide of a cat was stretched over a hollow frame and suspended by a cord from a large weather vane. Several bells were attached to the cord, and when the vane shifts in the wind, the movement of the hide and the rattling of the bells combine to frighten the birds.--F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.
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¶A coating of five parts of coal tar, one part gasoline, and one part japan drier will make canvas nearly water-tight.
A Small Hydraulic Turbine
BY FRANK D. BELL
Considerable power and speed can be developed under ordinary water-supply pressure by the turbine, or water motor, shown in the sketch and detailed in the working drawings. The parts are of simple construction, and the machine may be assembled or taken down easily. It is useful for either belt or direct connection to electrical generators, small machines, etc., the direct connection being preferable for a generator. The wheel is built up of sheet metal and provided with curved buckets set in the saw-tooth edge. The water is admitted through an opening in the lower part of the housing and passes out at the opposite end into a suitable drain pipe. The housing is made of two sections, the main casting and a cover plate. Bearings for the shaft are cast into the housing, which is reinforced on the back by ribs radiating from the center.
Wooden patterns are made for the housing, the main casting and the cover plate being cast separately. The pattern for the cover plate should provide for the bearing lug, as shown in the sectional detail, and for the angle forming a support at the bottom. Special attention should be given to allowance for proper draft in making the pattern for the main casting; that is, the edges of the reinforcing ribs, and the sides of the shell should be tapered slightly to make removal from the sand convenient. The advice of a patternmaker will be helpful to one inexperienced in this work, although many machine metalworkers are familiar with the process.
The finishing and machining of the parts and their assembling should be undertaken as follows: Clean the castings and file off rough parts. Smooth the cover plate and the shell to a close fit, and drill and tap the fastening holes for 8-32 machine screws. Drill ¹⁄₄-in. holes for the bearings, through the bearing arm and ¹⁄₄ in. into the lug on the cover plate. Drill and tap the two grease-cup holes for ¹⁄₈-in. pipe thread, Drill the nozzle hole ¹⁄₄ in., and drill and tap it for a ¹⁄₂-in. pipe nipple.
Lay out the wheel of ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass, making 24 notches in its edge. Fasten the wheel to the ¹⁄₄-in. shaft with a flanged coupling, fixing it with a setscrew. Bolt the flange to the wheel with 8-32 steel bolts. Make the buckets of ¹⁄₃₂-in. sheet brass, curved as detailed, and round off the edges. Solder them into place, using plenty of solder and making certain that the curve is set properly. Place drops of solder on the flange nuts to secure them. Place the ends of the shaft on two knife-edges, and balance the wheel by adding drops of solder to the lighter side. This is very important, as undue vibration from lack of balance will wear the bearings quickly.
Assemble the machine, using shellac between the cover plate and shell. Make connection to the water supply with a ¹⁄₂-in. pipe. Bolt the machine down, and do not let it run at full speed without load.
Automatic Lock Box for Milk Bottles
A mousetrap spring, provided with a suitable catch, was fitted into a box for milk bottles, and served to protect the milk bottle against theft by prowlers. The box was made large enough to hold several bottles, the empty ones in one portion and the filled bottles in another. The bottle is dropped through an opening in the locked end of the box and the spring forces up the catch. While this device may be tampered with, it guards effectively against the theft of bottles of milk, since most of those stolen are taken because they are easily accessible.--L. F. Head, Seattle, Wash.
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¶The oxyacetylene flame may be used in cutting or welding steel cables, but such welds will not sustain the original safe load of the cable.
Uses for an Old Toothbrush
A discarded toothbrush, properly cleaned so as not to be insanitary, may be used in one or possibly more of the following ways: to raise the nap of white buckskin shoes, after polishing them; in reaching corners with shoe polish, or in cleaning out eyelets and corners; cleaning typewriter keys with benzine; polishing small parts of metalwork.--Joseph A. Cunningham, Philadelphia, Pa.
A Locking Sheath for Hunter’s Knife
Having made a hunting knife and desiring a suitable sheath for it, I devised that shown in the sketch, which has the special feature that the guard on the knife handle locks in slots cut through the sheath. Two pieces of leather were used, one for the back section and the other for the shorter front piece. The sewing at the edges of the two sections extends from the level of the slots around the lower end of the sheath. Two slots were cut vertically through the upper portion of the sheath, which is fastened to the belt of the wearer, as indicated.--George H. Flint, Harrison, Me.
Discarded Buggy Springs for Diving Board
Old leaf springs obtained from a buggy were used to give the necessary spring to a diving board. One of the springs was set at each side of the board about 2¹⁄₂ ft. from the fixed end, and they were joined by a cross support of 2 by 4-in. wood, on which the spring board rested. Straps to check the strain on the springs from the rebound were provided.
Water Wheel Turns Spit over Campfire
When a camp fire is placed near a stream, water power may be utilized to turn the spit in roasting meat over the fire. The rod, on which the roast is suspended, should be extended, and supported at one end, over the water. A small paddle wheel may then be rigged up easily on the rod.
A Detachable Chair Arm
The children in the home as well as others can make good use of a chair arm which may be attached quickly to an ordinary chair. The wide arm is clamped to the back of the chair by means of a strip of metal fitted with a thumbscrew, and the upright is fixed to the arm by a hinge, making it convenient to store the device. The lower end of the upright is fitted with a metal angle which fits on the corner of the chair.--J. F. Long, Springfield, Mo.
Comic Chest Expander for Play or Stage Use
A device used in an amateur vaudeville sketch with good effect, and which is interesting for play purposes, was made of a ¹⁄₃₂ by 9 by 14-in. piece of sheet spring brass, rigged as shown. In the center, near the upper edge, a small pulley was soldered, and at the center of the bottom edge a small hole was drilled. In it was fastened one end of a 4-ft. string which ran up through the pulley. The other end was fastened to a strap to fit around the leg just above the knee. At the two upper corners of the brass sheet two slots were cut to accommodate similar straps, as fastenings. When the wearer stands in a normal position the chest is as usual, but by straightening the body and slightly moving the strapped leg back, the brass sheet is bowed outward, giving the appearance indicated.--Arthur L. Kaser, South Bend, Ind.
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¶Square cardboard disks fastened to the ends of a spool with thumb tacks will prevent it from rolling.
Cane Made of Tubing Contains Cigars
As a novelty in canes, a steel tube was provided with a suitable handle and used as a container for cigars and matches. The tube was fitted with a metal cap at its junction with the handle and the cigars are inserted or removed at this point. The end of the handle was bored out and also provided with a cover, as a match safe. The tube was enameled and varnished to resemble wood.--James E. Noble, Toronto, Canada.
Key Ring Used as a Cover Fastener
The usual box-cover fastener in the form of a staple and hasp can be fastened quite securely, and much better than with the use of a wood pin, by applying a key ring to the staple. This is to take the place temporarily in case the lock is lost or discarded.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Golf Tee Made of a Shotgun Shell
Instead of making golf tees in the usual manner I used the brass end of a shotgun shell, weighted with a small iron ball attached to a string. The device was made as an experiment and proved so useful and convenient to carry that I continued to use it.--Edward Beasley, Texarkana, Ark.
Patching Canvas Bottom of a Canoe
A patch of silk, properly applied makes a good repair for a hole worn through the canvas bottom of a canoe. Loosen the canvas for about 2 in. around the hole and apply thick shellac. Insert a piece of silk in the hole to lap under the edges of the canvas. Permit the shellac to dry slightly and smooth down the patch. Protect the joint further with white lead, smoothing over the patch and painting it when dry.
Handy Tray for Pencils and Penholders
A piece of light cardboard, or sheet metal, may be folded into a neat and useful holder for pens, pencils, etc., on the desk or drafting table. In the latter case a piece of stiff drawing paper folded into V-grooves and tacked to the board, is convenient. For use on a finished surface the folded piece should be pasted on cardboard or otherwise fastened down.--William Robert, Springfield, Mass.
Removing Sag from Couch Spring
A couch spring of the type shown in the sketch sagged considerably, making it ineffective. The sag was taken up by bending the sections of wire with a monkey wrench, so that the entire spring was stiffened almost as satisfactorily as when new. Care must be taken that the wires are bent uniformly so that the strain is evenly distributed.
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¶An eggshell may be balanced on the edge of a knife if the egg is “blown,” and then partly filled with sand.
An Effective Combination Lock Easily Made
BY E. F. STRONG
The combination lock described has been used for years on lockers and letter boxes in a large public building. The details of a lock with three disks are given, and in Fig. 4 the use of two disks is suggested. The lock is made as follows: From a piece of ³⁄₁₆ or ¹⁄₄-in. hard wood, saw out three disks, A, Fig. 1, from 1 to 4 in. in diameter, according to the size of lock desired. For one with 2-in. disks, as shown, cut slots, B, ¹⁄₂ in. wide and deep, in the edge of the disks. For axles use ³⁄₈ by 2-in. hardwood dowels, C, with a six-penny headless wire nail in one end, leaving about ¹⁄₄ in. of it exposed.
The case of the lock is shown in Fig. 1. It is made large enough to mount the disks, as shown. Around the edges of the inside surface of the lid fasten strips a trifle thicker than the disks. Place the disks in the positions shown, drilling small holes in the baseboard for the nail axles. The bolts, D, and the piece, E, are made of hard wood, fastened with a lap joint. On each side of the bar, D, fasten cleats, F, to hold it in position. The handle, H, moves in a slot in the lid, and is fixed to the bar, E.
The door, or lid, on which the lock is to be used, is provided with openings, J, as shown in Fig. 3. The axles C, project through openings, as bearings. When the windows J, through which the combinations are read, are made, place the ends of the bolts in the slots of the disks and screw the lock in position. Mark on each disk the point exactly in the center of the window, enabling one to work the combination temporarily. To lock the device, push the handle to the left and turn the axles. To unlock it, turn the axles until the pencil marks appear in the middle of the windows, and throw the bolts.
Next make paper dials, K, of a diameter as shown in Fig. 2. Divide the circumference into from 50 to 100 equal parts, according to the size of the dial, and draw radii, as shown. Number at least every fifth point. To the face of each disk, A, with small thumb tacks, fasten one of the dials, placing the combination numbers selected exactly over the pencil marks made in setting the temporary combination. Verify the combination before locking it. Unless the slots in the disks are a little wider than the ends of the bolts, the combination must be very closely adjusted. An aid in setting the combination is a line on the glass or a point of black paper, as shown in Fig. 2. The combination may be changed by setting the dials in new positions. The large number of combinations possible makes it very difficult to obtain the combination. For most purposes, two disks are sufficient in a lock of this kind.
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¶A convenient method of supporting a garden-hose nozzle is to tie a loose knot in the end of the hose, arranging the nozzle to spray as desired.
A Simple Metal Bird Basin
A bird basin can be made an attractive feature of a home garden, and that shown in the illustration was made easily of a metal basin and a section of iron pipe. The pipe was sunk in the ground to a depth of 30 in. and loose rock placed around the end of it. A shallow pan, hammered out of a flat piece of sheet metal and provided with a cork stopper, was fixed to the upper end of the pipe. Holes were made in the edge of the pan and strings to support morning-glories were attached from them to a hoop, set in the ground around the pipe. When it is desired to change the water in the pan it is drained off by releasing the cork.--Mrs. F. D. Reynolds, Stevens Point, Wis.
Catch-All Screen inside Hot-Air Register
In order to recover small articles dropped through the floor-register grating of a hot-air heating system without the necessity of removing a section of the pipe, mesh gratings like that shown were fitted into place. Number six gauge wire mesh was used in pieces just large enough to fit into the metal box below the register. Access to the screen may be had by removing the grating--F. M. Ball, St. Louis. Mo.
Practical Uses for Old Button Clasps
Leather and metal-button clasps from suspenders are useful in repairing heavy gloves, large leather cases, and other articles on which the clasps have been lost or worn out. They may be sewed or riveted into place. Attached to straps, they are useful means of making a fastening, and may be applied to leggings, and other parts of outing clothes.
Bark-Covered Porch Light and Plant Shelf
A combination flowerpot holder and reading lamp was made from two pieces of wood, bark, and a lamp socket, and proved to be a good shaded reading light. With a plant in the flowerpot, the fixture was made quite attractive by day. Maple bark, well dried out, was used. A piece of board, ³⁄₄ in. thick, was cut to fit the curve of the bark, and fastened to it. The former was then nailed to another board, ¹⁄₂ by 5 by 14 in., which formed the support for the fixture. A lamp socket was attached and a suitable current source provided.
Removable Headrest for Chair
A convenient attachment for the back of a chair is an extension padded to form a comfortable headrest. This may be made by fixing a padded piece of wood, 6 in. wide and 20 in. long, to the chair back by means of suitable wooden braces, notched to fit the top of the chair.
Rigging Economizes Space in Closet
It was necessary to store a considerable quantity of clothing in a small clothes closet, and the rigging detailed in the illustration was devised, and provided unusual accommodations. Wooden rods, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, were set across the closet at each side of the door and supported on notched blocks, as shown in the detail at the left. The clothes used frequently were supported on these rods by means of hangers. For clothes out of season, or used only occasionally. a special rigging was arranged in the space above the door. A 1¹⁄₂-in. rod was fitted between the walls to slide in a groove at its ends. Strips nailed to the wall formed the groove. Cords, attached to the rod, as shown, and carried to the ceiling, where pulleys were fixed, made it convenient to raise or lower the rod. A sheet was spread over the clothes to protect them.--A. K. Hay, Ottawa, Canada.
Scoop Made of Box End
A scoop that is serviceable for handling various kinds of lighter bulk material may be made by cutting the end from a cardboard box of suitable size and trimming it into shape. A handle may be provided by making a loop of cloth, or flexible cardboard, and fastening it with a paper fastener.
Mechanical Toy Pigeon Made of Wood
When the head of the mechanical pigeon is lowered the tail rises, and the reverse. It is constructed as follows: Make paper patterns for the parts, which consist of two body pieces, a head, a tail, and the foot piece. The shape of the parts is shown in the sketch, the front body piece being removed to show the connections of the rubber and wire controlling the movements. The view above shows the fastening of the parts with nails. The main sizes of the parts, which are made of ¹⁄₈ to ¹⁄₄-in. soft wood, are: head, 1³⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₂ in.; body, 2 by 5¹⁄₄ in.; tail, 1¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₄ in.; foot piece, 1³⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ in. Mark the shapes on the wood, cut them out, and mount them, with a rubber band connecting the head and tail, as shown. Nail the foot piece between the body pieces, and pivot the head and tail on nails. Connect the head with a wire, having a loop on one end. Make the holder, and cut a slot into it for the draw wire, operated with the finger.--C. C. Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.
Sportsman’s Cabinet for Guns, Equipment, and Books
The books, magazines, guns, fishing tackle, camera, etc., of the out-of-door man are often kept or laid aside in various places. To provide a good place for such equipment, I made the case shown. What apparently is a neat bookcase when closed, the top shelf used as a magazine rack, accommodates numerous other articles. After the “bookcase” has been examined superficially I open the door, swing the shelves out, and display back of them my guns, hunting togs and outfit. Two small drawers, covered by the upper rail of the door when closed, hold various small articles; and a blind drawer under the door holds shoes and the larger articles. I constructed this combination cabinet as follows: The lumber used was ⁷⁄₈-in. chestnut. The dimensions of the cabinet are 60 by 30 by 14 in. For the back of the bookshelf and cabinet I used matched ceiling. The door casings are 4 in. wide; the sidepieces of the door are 3 in. wide, the top, 4 in., and bottom piece, 6 in. wide. This cabinet cost me less than $3 and does the service of a gun cabinet valued at $30.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.
A Photographic-Negative Filing System
In order to preserve photographic negatives and to make them easily available, the following homemade system was devised: The negatives are kept in envelopes having a print from the negative therein mounted on the face. A trial, or an inferior, print is used, and shows what negative it contains. Extra prints and enlargements are kept in the same envelope for each negative. On the face, or back, of the envelope is written data, such as name or title of subject, place and date taken, stop and shutter speed used, most suitable printing paper, developer, etc. This data may be kept in the negative envelope on a sheet of paper. This leaves the photograph album free from data that is of no interest to persons viewing the pictures. The envelopes are kept in their original boxes, classified as “Animals,” “Birds,” “Live Stock,” “Landscapes,” “My 1914 Vacation Trip,” and so forth.
Knee-Rest Holder for Milking Pail
Becoming tired of holding the milk pail between my knees while milking, I made a contrivance of strap iron to overcome this. It is arranged so that the milk pail will just fit inside, the curved straps supporting the weight of the pail on the knees. The holder may be made of wood, with the possible exception of the curved arms, which should be made of pieces of iron, ¹⁄₈ in. thick and about 2 wide. The circular frame can be made adjustable to various pails by bolts set in holes in the bands.--J. C. Whitescarver, Miami, Okla.
Tool Sockets in Edge of Drawing Board
Drawing tools, pencils, etc., were kept out of the way on a drawing board by inserting them in pockets drilled in the upper edge of the drawing board. A small brass plate, pivoted on the center, was used to cover each set of two pockets, and the latter were numbered on the upper surface of the board.--Elmer O. Tetzlaff, De Pere, Wis.
Cart for Carrying Huge Drum in Parade
The inalienable right of the small boy to carry the drum in a parade was disregarded when the cart shown in the sketch was made for a large drum. Two rubber-tired wheels were mounted on an axle bent to fit the drum, and curved handles, forming a supporting frame, were fixed to it. The frame was made of hickory, steamed and bent into shape, and the drum was arranged to be quickly dismounted.--W. C. K., Mason City, Iowa.
A Homemade Inverted Electric-Light Fixture
An attractive and serviceable inverted-light fixture for a den and study was made at an outlay of about 30 cents, the details of construction being shown in the illustration. The light is distributed thoroughly, and with a 40-watt lamp is ideal for work at a desk. The lower portion A is a tin washbasin, costing 10 cents, and the part C is a cup-cake pan, costing 5 cents. The rim B is made of ⁵⁄₈-in. wood, 13 in. in diameter, and the disk E, 10 in. wide, is the round block cut from the center of the rim B. The uprights D are made of ³⁄₈-in. dowel rods and of a length suitable to the height of the room. They are glued and toenailed to the rim and disk. F is a cup-cake pan, and G is a drawer knob, fastened to the pan F. These parts can be omitted if desired. They are fastened to the top with wood screws.
The light socket is supported in a metal strap, H, having a rounded offset to match a bolted clamping strip. The inside of the basin, being tinned, acts as an excellent reflector. All parts except the inside of the pan are enameled white. The fixture is fastened to the ceiling with screws through the disk.--A. F. Krueger, Champaign, Ill.
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¶The gummed portions of unsealed envelopes are often useful when a gummed strip is desired.
Laying Out a Horizontal Sundial Plate
To make a sundial accurately it is necessary to lay out the lines for the particular locality where it is to be used, as a dial will vary slightly according to the latitude. The parts may be made of wood, metal, or stone. A good method is to have a bronze casting made from a wooden pattern. The lines may be cut with a lathe and planer in a machine shop, or engraved by hand.
The illustrations show how the dial is made. The lines, as indicated in Fig. 1, should be laid out very carefully, first on a pattern. Draw a horizontal line near the top which represents the six-o’clock line, A-VI, in Fig. 2. Then lay out another line AH, at right angles to A-VI. Take a point C at any convenient place and construct the right-angled triangle ABD. The angle CAB should be equal to the degree of latitude of the place. The angle CBD equals CAB. Take a compass and set it to a radius equal to the side BD, and draw the quadrant DF from E. From D draw the line DG out for same distance and parallel with A-VI. Now divide the quadrant DF into six equal parts. Draw the lines E1, E2, E3, etc., and where they intersect the line DG, draw the lines from A, as A-I, A-II, A-III, etc. These are the hour lines. Divide each of the six divisions of the quadrant into four parts, and draw the lines, as shown between the 3 and 4 divisions. These are the 15-minute parts. Each of these parts may be divided in turn, and this is best done by eye, unless the dial is quite large.
This will complete one-half of the dial. The other half is done in the same manner, leaving a space between the line AH and its corresponding line for the other side of the dial. This space should be equal to the thickness of the upright shadow-casting piece, or style. The style has its base equal in length to the line AH, and its angle, S, equal to the latitude, or the angle CAB. It is mounted in the space with the high end at 12 o’clock. It may be fastened to the dial with screws passing through the base. Mount the dial horizontally on a suitable pedestal. The style should be exactly north and south, with 12 o’clock toward the north. The dial will be fast or slow over clock time. This is corrected by consulting an almanac and setting the clock accordingly from the dial. A correction plate may thus be made and mounted on the pedestal.--F. B. Walters, Baltimore, Md.
Homemade Roadster with Motorcycle Engine
By mounting a 5-hp. motorcycle engine on a frame built of 2 by 4-in. stuff, and rigging the outfit on running gear made of gas-pipe axles, old buggy springs, and motorcycle wheels, I made the light roadster shown in the photograph, at small cost. It develops 30 miles an hour easily, carrying only the driver, and has carried five persons. The frame is suspended from the springs, with an underslung effect, on the front axle. The power is transmitted by a friction drive, consisting of a fiber contact pulley, obtained from an old commercial car, and a disk used as a cutter on a plow.
The front axle is of 1-in. gas pipe fitted with suitable-size solid nipples, and washers, at the bearings. The steering knuckle was made of steel shafting turned down to fit a pipe tee, set in the axle. The drive shaft is ⁷⁄₈ in. in diameter, and has a ball thrust bearing on the end. Sprocket gearing gives a ratio of 6 to 1, on high speed.--E. L. Munsen, La Conner, Wash.
Mending Aluminum Cooking Utensils
Holes in aluminum ware may be mended by plugging them with rivets as follows: Make a rivet of lead or solder, and enlarge the hole to fit the rivet tightly. Insert the rivet from the inside and back it with a piece of hard wood, or metal. Rivet the other end to fill the hole and lap over it slightly. Suitable rivets may be made by cutting a lead wire, about ³⁄₄ in. long, and of the desired diameter, on which a head is formed by riveting down the end. The wire is set in a hole in a block during this operation.--L. C. Burke, Madison, Wis.
Feeding Cards into Typewriter
Trouble is sometimes experienced in feeding cards into a typewriter, and this may be overcome by providing a paper sheet as a leader. Run the sheet of paper into the machine and feed the card in after it, lapping their adjoining edges. This prevents the edge of the card from catching on the rolls.
A California Bungalow for Canaries
An outdoor birdhouse, which has proved popular in various sizes, especially for canaries, is that with a bungalow roof, and sides of wire netting, as shown in the photograph reproduced. While a number of these houses were made in a workshop to order, the construction is so simple that boys will find considerable fun in making them, especially in framing the roof. The house shown is 18 by 28 in., and 14¹⁄₂ in. high to the eaves strip. The body of the house is made in two side and two end frames, fastened at the corners with screws. The wire is put on the frames before assembling them. A small, sliding door, of wood and wire, is provided, or one end may be made in two frames, one of which is hinged for a door. The eaves should extend at least 2¹⁄₂ inches.--H. L. Coolidge, Pasadena, Cal.
Homemade Device Aids Blind Person in Writing
To assist my father in writing, notwithstanding his blindness, I made the machine shown in the illustration. It has been in use two years, and proved thoroughly practical. It consists of a board, ¹⁄₂ by 11 by 13³⁄₄ in., on which the paper is held by a clip. Two stops, A, insure a good alinement of the sheet. A T-square, B, slides in a groove at the left side; the upper edge is beveled. At a distance of ³⁄₄ in. from this edge is stretched a brass guide wire, C, by means of which the height of the script is gauged. The wire is supported on brass strips, D. When the line is written, a pin, E, set in one of a row of holes in the groove F, is raised, the T-square moved, and the pin inserted in the next hole below, giving the correct spacing. As the wire does not touch the paper, either ink or pencil can be used. The board consists of four pieces, glued, and fastened with screws, as detailed.--Arthur E. Tremaine, Brookline, Mass.
Making Cardboard Tubes for Electrical Coils
It is often difficult to obtain cardboard tubes as foundations for coils of special sizes, and the following is a practical method for making them as desired: Cut a strip of cardboard somewhat wider than the length of the tube desired and about 2 ft. long. Soak the cardboard in water until it is quite pliable. Wrap it tightly around a wooden rod of suitable size, gluing or shellacking each successive layer. When the desired thickness has been obtained, bind the tube with string, and place the whole in a moderately warm oven to dry. The tube may then be cut to length.--Alexander V. Bollerer, New Britain, Conn.
An Army in a Small Box
A play device that will afford much amusement and which is interesting for boys to make is that shown in the sketch. To make the peephole cabinet, obtain a box of suitable size; fasten a piece of looking-glass inside, at each end. Make a peephole at one end of the box, and rub the silvering from the back of the looking-glass at the hole. Place a few metal soldiers, horses, etc., along the sides of the box 1 or 2 in. apart, one being set to hide the reflection of the hole. By looking through the hole an endless army may be seen. Light is provided through the skylight at the top, which is fitted with ground glass or tissue paper. This device perplexes most persons who are not familiar with its construction.--James E. Noble, Portsmouth, Canada.
Liquid-Filled Tray Carried Safely
In photographic work, and in the shop or laboratory, chemicals carried in shallow trays are easily spilled. In photographic work, especially, this endangers materials used, as the spilled liquid dries and dust affected by it may spoil chemicals with which it comes into contact. The tray should be carried in a larger pan or basin partly filled with water, thus keeping the tray level.
Making an Umbrella Handle Detachable
A parasol or umbrella with a detachable handle is a great convenience in packing when traveling, and a handle may be made detachable as follows: Remove the handle by using a block of wood and a hammer. Clean out the hole, and polish the steel stem with emery, as far as it goes into the handle. Cut off 1 in. from the end, and then solder a section of brass tubing into this piece, and another section into the end of the stem. The abutting ends are then tapped to fit an 8-32 screw, which is then soldered into the shorter piece, as shown. The latter is pushed into the handle, and a hole, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter, is drilled almost through the handle. A piece of wire nail is driven into this hole. By making the screw fast in the handle rather than in the stem, the threads are protected, and the length when taken apart is correspondingly reduced.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
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¶To renew a typewriter ribbon, roll it on a spool and apply a very small drop of glycerin at intervals of several inches, with a fountain-pen filler, and permit the glycerin to soak in thoroughly.
Boys’ Athletic-Equipment Locker
The boy should have a place in the home for his sports togs and equipment, and a cupboard like that shown can be made easily for the purpose. Its size will depend on the quantity of articles to be stored. A good size is 12 by 30 in., by 5 ft. high. Plain boards are used, and for the door they are fastened together with cleats and screws. The drawer is convenient but not essential.--J. D. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.
Wire Compacts Bristles in Polish or Stencil Brushes
The bristles of brushes used for applying shoe polish and for painting through stencils often curl so much that the brush becomes almost useless. In order to overcome this I bound the bristles with several turns of wire and soldered them into place as shown. When desirable, part of the wire may be removed by cutting it at the solder.--Hugo Kretschmar, West Nyack, N. Y.
Old Table Used as Wall Workbench
Good use was made of an old table, one leg of which was broken, by removing two of the legs at one side and fitting the table against a wall. A wide board was set on the back edge of the table, against the wall, and provided a rack for tools. A drawer was fitted into the front of the table, and a small iron vise was clamped at one end. The arrangement provided a convenient bench for home shop work.
Lettering Photo Prints without Marking Negative
Instead of scratching titles on photographic negatives, which often produces a poor result, a good method is to write the title on the sensitive paper with black ink before printing. Care must be taken not to scratch the paper. The toning and fixing baths wash away the ink, leaving the script or lettering white. The negative is thus unmarred.
Rope Pad Prevents Slamming of Door
An antislam pad, made of a piece of rope and fixed to the knobs of doors, is in general use in a large hospital. The device is made by forming loops on the end of a short section of rope, as shown, and fitting them over the door knob. This also prevents the closing of the door so that a patient may be heard in calling an attendant.--C. M. Hall, St. Louis, Missouri.
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¶Curtain rollers should be arranged so that the direction of pull on the tacked edge of the curtain is away from the end.
Box to Protect Extra Spark Plugs
Damage often results to spark plugs which are thrown in the tool box of an automobile, and the use of a small case for the extra spark plugs is desirable. Partitions may be fitted into an old box of suitable size, or a case may be specially made. That shown was designed to provide for six spark plugs in a minimum of space. It was made of ¹⁄₄-in. wood, and of a length so that the spark plugs could be slipped in the recesses only by turning the faces of adjoining plugs together. A hinged cover keeps them firmly in place.--E. R. Mason, Danville, Ill.
Homemade Spring Wagon Seat
Two ⁷⁄₈-in. boards, 12 in. wide, between which two 12-in. pieces of 2 by 4-in. wood are bolted, provide a strong spring seat for a wagon. The boards are cut to a suitable length, and the 2 by 4-in. pieces are set near the middle, and about 8 in. apart. This gives a spring seat at each end of the device.
Cushioned Chair Made of a Barrel
A strong barrel may be made into a comfortable chair by cutting it halfway through at the middle and shaping the remaining upper portion into an arm and back rest. Holes are bored at the seat level and at the back, and wires woven through them to form a backing for excelsior-stuffed cushions.
Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble Motorcycle
The boy who cannot own a motorcycle but who has a bicycle, may remodel it to resemble a power-driven machine by fitting it up with equipment, much of which can be made in the home workshop. The illustration shows how an ordinary bicycle was improved by several practical fittings. The lower end of the mudguard of the rear wheel was extended to form a clip, for the homemade stand A. Brackets were made of strap iron to support the bundle carrier B, the basket of which was made of wood. The tank C, 3 by 3 by 21 in., with two compartments and doors, contains batteries and tools. It is fastened to the frame by means of two bolted straps. The bracket D was made of strap iron, to support the electric headlight E. The handlebars were extended, as shown at F, and the horn G was provided. The seat post was lengthened by welding a piece to it, and reversed, as at H. A tail light, J, and a pump, K, held by straps, were provided, and the front mudguard was fitted with a leather piece, L, shaped as shown in the front view.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.
Toy Submarine Made of Shade Roller
The submarine shown really goes, and was made of a bit of tin, some lead, a few brads, and an old window-shade roller, with a good spring. The spring is the submarine engine. Saw off the roller 3 in. beyond the inner end of the spring, and shape it like the bow of a submarine. Flatten a piece of lead, and fasten it to the bottom of the boat for a keel. Experiment until the keel is of the right weight, and in the proper place, permitting the boat to move evenly, just below the surface of the water. For the propeller, cut a 2-in. tin disk as shown, and bend the blades into shape. In the center make a hole to admit the end of the spring, to which it is then soldered. Wind up the “engine” by turning the propeller. The shade-roller spring can also be used for other toy craft.--E. P. Sullivan, Arlington, Massachusetts.
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¶Rub powdered graphite on rubber and asbestos gaskets so that they may be removed easily when desired.
Simple Machine for Transmitting Writing
An interesting and novel construction for amateur or boy mechanics is a telautograph or writing telegraph machine. The instruments, as shown, are duplicates with the exception of the placing of the rubber bands. They can be made in different sizes, and satisfactory results were obtained by making the base 7 by 12 in., the arm B 5 in. long and ³⁄₄ in. wide, and the triangle C 6 in. by 3¹⁄₂ in. A hole is bored in the arm B, slightly smaller than the pencil to be used and a slot sawed from the edge to hole, so that when the pencil is forced into the hole it will be tightly gripped, as at A. The arm B is fastened to triangle C, to move freely. The triangle is fastened to the base, and can also move freely. The rubber bands D are stretched tightly to hold the moving parts in position. The strings E should be strong, and stretched taut.
The larger diagram shows the instruments placed in parallel position. The smaller diagram shows how they can be placed one above the other. An unruled pad is fastened to the base of each instrument with thumb tacks. The operation may be traced by noting the successive action of the parts when the pencil on the pad at the left is moved in writing a message. The pivoted triangle communicates the action to the string E, which actuates the other triangle and its lever system. The rubber bands serve to steady the action. The instruments may be arranged a short distance apart for play or experimental purposes or set in rooms on different floors, by making suitable pulley connections for the cords E.--William Freebury, Buffalo, N. Y.
Diagonal Corners on Disk-Record Covers
Having been bothered with the edges of square paper covers of disk records curling, making it unhandy to place them in a file, I remodeled them as shown in the sketch. The covers without the lower corners were so convenient that I made others by folding and pasting paper of the shape shown in the pattern. It was found desirable to use a good quality of paper for the new envelopes as this gave added protection.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Ontario, Can.
Live Poultry Weighed Handily in Funnel Scale
A deep funnel, or cone, made of sheet metal and attached to an ordinary platform weighing scale or a draw scale, is useful especially in weighing live poultry. The fowl is placed in the funnel head first and remains quiet while being weighed, which is not the case in most common methods of weighing. The funnel is mounted on three legs, for use on a platform scale, and suspended from a ring by chains, from the hook of a drawspring scale.--C. W. Reemtsen, Des Moines, Ia.
Transferring Pictures to Glass
The surface of glass on which pictures are to be transferred must be thoroughly clean. A coat of nearly colorless varnish is applied, and permitted to dry overnight in a room free from dust. Wet the picture, soaking it in clear water for about 10 minutes. Place it on blotting paper with the front side down, leaving the back wet. Varnish the glass again, and place the picture face down on the varnished surface, pressing out the bubbles, working from the center out. Rub on the back of the transfer paper until the picture is transferred to the varnished surface, and remove the paper carefully. Permit the picture on the glass to dry, and then varnish it.
An Order-Memo Device for Delivery Routes
A milk driver who had many extra orders of milk and cream to deliver had considerable difficulty in keeping track of the orders. He overcame this difficulty by the use of a clip attached to the steering wheel of his truck. He got a spring clothespin, wired one side of it to one of the spokes of the steering wheel, and now places his extra orders in a ring attached to the clip, as they come on his route. When he makes a delivery, he moves the memo on the ring, bringing the next order before him. This method can be used in many other businesses, where articles such as newspapers are delivered on routes.--Francis W. Nunenmacher, Berkeley, California.
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¶To counteract mildew on canvas, coat the parts with soap and rub well with powdered chalk or whiting.
Model Paddle-Wheel Boats
Only a few boys have ponds of their own, in a pasture, perhaps. But there are miniature lakes in our city parks, pools at our summer camps, and old water holes in the woods; if all of these fail, a boy can still sail his ships on the bathtub sea. A simple side-wheeler, built of wood, is shown in the sketch. It winds up with a crank and runs 15 to 20 ft. A float is made by pointing the ends of a thick board, the dimensions of which are given in Fig. 1. On this the paddle-wheel frame is nailed, as shown in the top view, Fig. 1, the side view, Fig. 2, and the end view, Fig. 3. It is made of thin wood. A broom-handle section, just long enough to slip into this frame, is whittled to form a winding drum, and fitted with paddles, wire axles, and a crank. A second shorter section of the broom-handle, set between blocks nailed to the stern, serves as a roller for the rubber bands. These, linked together and tied to a length of heavy cord, as shown in Fig. 1, are fixed to the bow and run over the roller to the drum. The addition of a top, or lid, of cardboard, wood, or tin, and painted to resemble cabins and pilot house, and fitted with masts and a smokestack, completes the model. Fig. 5 shows a similarly built stern-wheeler with the stern-wheel shaft set on brackets.--E. R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.
A Small Thresher of Practical Use
Buckwheat, oats, wheat, morning-glory seeds, and other grains and seeds, were successfully cleaned with a model thresher of simple design which I made from materials picked up in and around the farm workshop. It is 24 in. high, 14 in. wide, and 3¹⁄₂ ft. long. For a cylinder, I used a roller, 3 in. in diameter and 1 ft. long. The teeth are nails driven spirally about the cylinder in rows that alternate with similar teeth in the concave, the nails being driven ¹⁄₂ in. apart. The fan consists of a small roller upon which four pieces of tin are nailed. The beaters are larger rollers, into which wooden teeth are set. To hold the cylinder, fan, and beaters in place, four posts and two crosspieces were used, as shown.
The power used is an 8-ft. windmill that I constructed, using a buggy wheel as the frame. The cylinder must be run at a fairly high speed, the fan nearly as fast, and the beaters may be run much slower; this is taken care of by the relative size of the pulleys. The screen between the fan and beaters must be of small mesh so that grain will not fall through into the fan chamber. The sieve through which the grain drops must be the proper size for grain, and can be varied for the different kinds of grain or seed threshed. It is better to put only the heads of grain into the thresher, as long straws twist about the rollers. The material to be threshed is fed into the cylinder in the usual manner, and takes its course as indicated by the arrows, the grain falling to the spout at the bottom, and the straw and chaff being blown out at the exhaust for it. Soft wood was used in the construction, ⁷⁄₈-in. stock for the heavier pieces, and ³⁄₈ or ¹⁄₄-in. stock for the other parts. The curved housing for the fan was made of tin. Leather or rope belts, fitted tightly, may be used. The power is applied on the cylinder pulley, hand or other power being suitable.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.
Moth-Ball Puzzle as Window-Advertising Novelty
A druggist recently puzzled thousands with a novel window display. A small white ball in a 1-in. glass tube, about 10 in. long, displayed in a show window, would sink to the bottom, then slowly ascend, only to sink as before. A sign reading “What Makes It Move?” kept the crowd guessing. The tube was apparently filled with water. The construction is simple. The tube is about three-quarters full of carbonated soda water. The white ball is an ordinary moth ball. The ball sinks, and when it becomes soaked gradually as it lowers, bubbles of gas cling to it, carrying it to the top of the solution. There the gas escapes, destroying the ball’s buoyancy, and causing it to sink again, This process is repeated over and over.--David J. Lonergan, Minneapolis, Minnesota.
Record-Cleaning Pad Fixed to Talking Machine
By providing a practical method of keeping talking-machine records free from dust automatically, as they are played, the life of the record is prolonged and the reproductions are more clear, and free from scratching sounds. A felt pad supported on a fixture made of a strip of brass does the work nicely. The pad is clamped in a clip at the end of the brass strip, and the entire device is held in place by the spring action of the upper clip, which fits over the end of the reproducing arm. The pad or the whole device can be slipped out of place quickly.
Novel Uses for Safety Pins
It is surprising to note how many uses can be made of an ordinary safety pin, both as an emergency-repair device, and for other purposes. I found 40 simple uses for safety pins, a few of which are shown in the illustration. Some of the many other uses are as a chain, a candle holder, a spring, a cover holder for a kettle, and as a pencil clip. Most of these can be made by twisting the safety pin with a small plier. By using a cutting plier, many more useful kinks can be devised.--George G. McVicker, North Bend, Neb.
Moving Heavy Objects with a Broom
After trying to move a heavy trunk alone, the attempt is usually given up until some friend can be called in to lend a hand, because a truck or other means of handling such heavy objects is not at hand. An ordinary sweeping broom will serve as a sled to move a stove or similar object in the home without heavy lifting. The straw in the broom is slippery and can be drawn over carpets without injuring them. In handling a stove, the legs must of course be removed, one person drawing the load and the other steadying it.--Samuel H. Avery, Chicago, Ill.
Rear Seat for Motorcycle or Bicycle
A rear seat mounted on a light support that can be quickly attached to a strong bicycle or a motorcycle is handy, and one like that shown in the sketch can be made in the home workshop. The supporting frame, consisting of two main sections forming a fork over the rear axle, and a brace extending to the bicycle frame, are made of ¹⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄-in. strap iron. The seat and the handlebars are supported on posts of the usual type, flattened at their lower ends, and riveted to the fixture. The lower ends of the fork are bent to form foot rests. The detailed construction of the seat post and the method of clamping the brace at A are shown in the smaller sketches. The fastenings on the seat and handlebar posts are made with rivets or bolts.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.
Changing Wheels Equalizes Wear on Baby-Cab Tires
The front and rear wheels of a baby cab are usually of the same size and the tires on the rear wheels are worn much more rapidly than those on the front wheels. By changing the position of the wheels, the wear on the tires is equalized, making it unnecessary to renew them until all are worn out.--J. Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.
A Craftsman Leather Billfold
BY LIVINGSTON HAVILAND
The making of a billfold is easily within the range of an amateur in leather work, who will observe the instructions carefully. Seal, morocco, pigskin, and ooze sheep are satisfactory. Skiver, or thin leather, and silk moiré make suitable linings. When the processes involved in the making of the billfold are mastered, numerous other small articles in leather will suggest themselves, and can be made similarly.
The finished billfold is shown with the cardcase side up; folded, and with the bill compartment open, in Fig. 2. Begin the making of it by cutting a pattern of stiff cardboard for the main portion, or body part No. 1, as shown in Fig. 1.
Make a second pattern for body part No. 2, as shown in Fig. 1. Trim the leather to fit the patterns, a straight edge of metal being placed over the pattern as a guide for the knife. A close-grained hardwood board, or a piece of sheet zinc, is suitable as a base for cutting the leather.
Cut pieces of lining slightly larger than the patterns. If skiver is used, it must be glued to the leather with a good quality of leather glue, which should be pliable so as not to crack the leather. Do not stretch the lining, but merely smooth it gently, as otherwise it may cause the leather to buckle. Place the glued parts under a light weight to dry. In fitting the silk lining into place, apply a thin stripe of glue around the edges only, and permit them to extend beyond the leather. Then trim them off neatly.
Part No. 1 is to be folded to form the back of the billfold and also the two pockets for cards. The parts are glued as shown in Fig. 3. Weight the billfold and permit the glue to dry. The sewing may then be undertaken.
The neatness of the billfold will depend largely on the care with which the sewing is done, and the finish on the edges. Draw a straight line with a blunt-point tool along the edges to be sewed, ³⁄₁₆ in. from them. Mark the spacing for an inch of the stitches on a strip of paper and transfer them to the stitching line. Punch the holes, making certain that each is made with the awl held vertical, as shown at D. Back the open ends with strips of cardboard when punching holes in them. Heavy, waxed silk of a color to match the leather is used for the sewing. The work may be done by hand without a holder, clamped between two boards. Thread the two needles and start them from the right side, as at E. Pass the needle from the first hole through the second as at F. With the needles then in position, as at G, continue this stitch. Tie the ends of the thread neatly at the end of the stitching. Trim the edges and tool them to a smooth finish with a suitable metal tool, or rod, heated moderately, applying water with the finger tip.
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¶The taper of a key is generally ¹⁄₈ in. per foot of length, and keys having a head are preferable because of greater ease in removing them. The width of a key is usually ¹⁄₄ the diameter of the shaft, plus ¹⁄₈ inch.
Lawn Mower Sharpened Efficiently with Simple Rigging
With this device, one can quickly sharpen the lawn mower, or perhaps earn money sharpening the neighbors’ machines. Because several knives in a lawn mower work against the cutting blade, it is difficult to sharpen a mower satisfactorily with a file or stone. A usual method is to reverse the cutting-wheel cogs, turn the mower upside down, and run it backward over the ground. By the use of grinding paste on the cutting blade the cutting wheel tends to sharpen itself. This process can be improved by supporting the mower, as shown at A, the blocks permitting the mower’s driving wheels to rest outside them. A block, B, supports the wooden roller. Remove the driving wheels, and the gears which turn the cutting wheel. Take the gear from one end and put it in the other end, replacing the driving wheel. By revolving the latter backward, the cutting wheel will also turn backward. Apply a paste of emery powder and lubricating oil to the cutting blade, and adjust the blade so that it comes fairly into contact with the cutting wheel. Turn the driving wheel backward, and gradually tighten the adjustment until a good edge on the cutting blade and the knives is produced.
A handle fixed on the driving wheel, as shown at C, makes turning it easier. After sharpening, replace the gears, clean the bearings thoroughly, and replace the driving wheels.--Ed. M. Hawes, Everett, Wash.
Rubber Pads for Opening Screw Watch Bezel
The modern screw case for watches is primarily for the purpose of keeping dust from getting into the delicate works. Unless one is possessed of a strong grip, it is hard not only to set the case tight enough to keep out dust, but also to open the watch when adjustment is necessary. To make this work easy, a jeweler has, as a part of his tool kit, several rubber dies to fit the different sizes of watch cases. He made them from old rubber heels, cut to fit the watch cases closely. Danger of breaking the crystal is also overcome.--C. E. Drayer, Cleveland, Ohio.
Spring Roost Releases Poultry-House Door Latch
Those in the habit of shutting their poultry houses at night to prevent disturbance or loss by night-prowling animals, will be interested in a contrivance that makes this unnecessary. The principle of the mechanism, as illustrated is that the opening to the poultry house is closed after the fowls have gone to roost, and in the morning when they descend from the roost, the door automatically opens, and they are free to go out. The spring door opens inside with hinges at the side, and a suitable bumper. The spring has just sufficient tension to cause the door to open when the catch is released.
The roost is fitted up as shown in the detail. One end is held by a bolt, while the other rests on a coil spring compressed by the weight of the fowls on the roost. A cord is attached at the spring end, passing through pulleys to the door, where it is fastened to the end of the bolt catch. The door is closed after the fowls are on the roost. The spring end is compressed to a level position, by their weight. The instant the birds leave the roost, it rises and pulls the cord, releasing the catch, and permitting the door to open.--George S. Brown, Norwich, Conn.
A Child’s Bell-Ringing Hoop
In making this useful toy, first, a wheel from an old baby carriage was stripped of the tire; then two laths are fastened together at one end, and the wheel inserted between them, at the other end, and held by a bolt. A strong cord was passed around the groove in the wheel, and around a spool, nailed so as to turn on the side of the lath when the wheel is rotated. Driven into the rim of the spool are three nails, which strike against the old alarm-clock bell, fastened as indicated.--W. F. MacGregor, Toronto, Can.
Emergency Camp Stoves Quickly Made
While conducting a boys’ camp in summer we experienced a severe sleet storm. Our tents were not equipped with stoves and I faced a double problem: to keep the boys warm and to keep them contented. The difficulty was solved by having them construct emergency camp stoves, as shown, using iron stovepipe, and other material at hand. One length of pipe is laid under the side of the tent about 4 in. in the ground, as in Fig. 1. An elbow mounted in sod connects with the chimney. A stone at the front of the stove regulates the draft, and stones placed upon the pipe hold the heat. The arrangement diagrammed in Fig. 2 is built with one length of pipe or a stone conduit. A hole is dug into the ground, about 10 in. deep. Over this is placed a pan, and an opening is made at the front for the fuel. The chimney is made of stones and sticks picked up around the camp, and plastered with mud. Coffee may be boiled or small cooking done on this stove.--William H. Leach, Alden, N. Y.
Pruning and Brush-Cutting Knife
With the blade of an old beef cutter and a stout wood handle, I fashioned a brush knife that is superior to a sickle for cutting down heavy weeds. The blade was secured in a slotted handle by a screw and rivet, and the top of the handle wired as an additional security. A blade of this sort is handy, also, for pruning purposes.--J. M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Plier Drives Nails in Backing Picture Frame
The fastening of a picture into a frame by the use of brads, or tacks, driven into the frame behind the backing is often done carelessly, because it is difficult to do a neat job with an ordinary hammer. A much better way of driving in these nails is to use a plier, as shown. Protect the edge of the frame with a layer or two of cardboard, and start the nail carefully, forcing it in by steady pressure on the plier handles.
Clip Holds Flash Lamp on Handlebar as Headlight
An ordinary pocket flash light makes a satisfactory headlight for a bicycle if fitted to the handlebar with a suitable clip. The arrangement shown makes it possible to remove the light quickly for use in the usual manner. The clip, as detailed, is of spring brass and is clamped over the post of the handlebar.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.
A Backwoodsman’s Nutcracker
Most persons know what a difficult job it is to crack hickory nuts, unless provided with a suitable hammer, or other tool, for the purpose. When nut hunting, such tools are usually not at hand, and a method used by an old backwoodsman will be of interest. First he cut a hickory limb, about 2 in. thick and 3 ft. long. In the center of the limb, he cut a square notch, about halfway through, and just large enough to admit a nut. Then placing one end of the limb on the ground, the other end held in the left hand, he placed a nut in the notch, and bent the limb slightly. This brought the edges of the notch closer together, and cracked the nut neatly.--C. M. Vaiden, Portland, Ore.
Handy Tool for Tightening Wire Spokes in Wheels
The wire spokes in bicycle and similar wheels often become loose, and a small pocket device for tightening them on the road is handy. A satisfactory one can be made quickly from a washer, 2 in. in diameter, cut as shown. A tapering slot is cut to the center of the washer to engage the nipples of various-sized spokes. The outer circumference of the washer is filed with a triangular file to provide a good finger grip.--H. E. Randell, Boston, Mass.
Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid in Atomizer
Atomizers are sometimes provided with delivery tubes the lower ends of which are ¹⁄₄ in. or more above the bottom of the reservoir, thus rendering useless considerable of the spraying liquid. To overcome this waste, in the case of expensive sprays, a small homeopathic vial was filled with the liquid from the bottom of the reservoir, and lowered into the bottle, as shown. The delivery tube of the atomizer was set into the vial, and the cap screwed on. By this means almost every drop of the spraying fluid was utilized.--Carl L. Hartshorn, West Haven, Conn.
A Small Rotary Pump Easily Made
This small power pump is made from a block of wood, a piece of rubber hose, and a 5-arm rotor of brass, with small spools attached to it. The base of the casing is 6 in. square, and of ⁷⁄₈-in. wood. A ³⁄₄-in. triangular block is set at each corner, and a ¹⁄₈-in. cover of wood, fastened at the four corners with screws. A large nail is used as a shaft for the rotor, which is cut from brass, ¹⁄₃₂ to ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick. Small spools are mounted on the arms of the rotor, and the small pulley wheel is fixed on the end of the axle. The action is simple: As the rollers on the arms revolve against the hose, the force of the stream at the discharge end is increased, the device acting as a pump. Such an arrangement was used for moving targets in a rifle range, and can be built on a larger scale if desired. A small water, or electric, motor is used to drive the pump.--S. A. Hardy, St. Paul, Minn.
Cleaning Type Cases with Bicycle Pump
Type cases can be cleaned easily by using a bicycle pump, which will blow the dust out. Typewriters and other small machinery can also be cleaned this way. A long hose used with a foot pump is often preferable to the hand pump.
Weighted Rope Holds Flag Upright
A householder devised a simple and effective method of keeping the flag upright when displayed from a nearly horizontal flagstaff. The cord which held the flag was run through pulleys, as indicated, and weighted with a pulley weight.--M. T. Kanary, Chicago, Illinois.
Homemade Gate Sign with Metal Letters
Needing a permanent sign to be mounted on an iron gate, I made one of metal, which is more durable and better-looking than most wooden or other common signs that the home mechanic can make. I used sheet metal and marked out the letters to cut them from the smallest possible strip, by reversing some of them. They were cut out with snips and chisels, and the edges filed smooth. The letters were then soldered to heavy wires, which were bolted to the gate by means of sheet-metal straps and bolts, as shown. The letters should be polished from time to time, especially if made from brass or copper.--Hugo Kretschmar, Brooklyn, N. Y.
Reinforcing the Ends of Rubber Handlebar Grips
The flexible rubber grips used on bicycles and motorcycles have good shock-absorbing qualities, but they have a tendency to break off at the end of the handlebar. They may be reinforced by a small stick projecting from the end of the handlebar tubing. One end of the stick is cut to fit tightly in the opening, and the other to fit the flexible end of the grip.--George M. Zimmerman, Fort Sumner, N. M.
Film Holder for Photographic Developing
The amateur photographer who uses roll film and who does his developing by the tray method, will find this device a simple and reliable means for holding the film spool while removing the film, duplex paper, autographic carbon paper, gummed labels, etc. Once the spool is properly placed in the holder, there is little danger of its dropping. The holder takes various sizes of film spools. The side fingers are ³⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₄ by 23 in. long. A small peg is set in each finger, 1¹⁄₈ in. from the end, to engage the spool. The upper ends of the fingers are nailed to a tapered block of wood, ⁷⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ and 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, and 8 in. long. The holder can be conveniently fastened to a wall, door casing, or to the under side of a shelf in the dark room.--John Hoeck, Alameda, Calif.
Old Sink Installed as Dish-Draining Basin
An added convenience for the housewife is the installation, in the place of the drain board customarily attached to the kitchen sink, of a second sink, with waste connections. Light wooden slats in the sink bottom give it all the utility of a drain board, without the danger of dishes slipping off onto the floor. A sink, of the old-fashioned kind used, can be purchased about as cheaply as a good drain board.--E. C. Blomeyer, Waco, Tex.
Desk-Light Arm Folds into Pigeonhole
The extension arm for an electric lamp shown in the illustration was made of strips from steel building toys. I installed it in my writing desk, and fastened it with one screw to the back of the desk inside the pigeonhole. When collapsed the arm measures 7¹⁄₂ in. from the fastened end to the front end of the socket, leaving only the globe protruding. Extended, it measures 16¹⁄₂ in. The lamp cord is taken through a hole in the back of the desk. If a very rigid arm is wanted, the strips can be doubled. I used screws with two nuts, but rivets can be used also, leaving the joints to move freely. The sliding feature at the inner end adds about 2 in. to the length of the arm when extended.--A. J. Viken, Waterloo, Ia.
A Soldier’s or Traveler’s Kit for Sundries and Toilet Articles
A soldier’s kit approved by a colonel of the national guard because of its compactness, can be made easily of a band of khaki cloth. The kit, including the “housewife,” requires cloth, 27 in. wide. Cut 12 in. from one end for the housewife, which is 12 by 5 in. wide. To make the housewife, fold under the edges ¹⁄₄ in., and fold one end over 2¹⁄₂ in. and the other 1¹⁄₂ in. for pockets. In the larger center pocket can be placed court plaster, adhesive tape, photographs, letters, etc. Bind the edges ¹⁄₄ in., and form other pockets, as shown. The entire kit weighs 1¹⁄₄ lb. and can be carried by the soldier in his army blanket. The housewife, if necessary, can be removed and taken to the firing line. Handy articles to be fitted in the kit are mirror that can be hung up, comb, box of talcum powder, cold cream, tooth paste, pencil, wash cloth, soaps, shaving brush, toothbrush, and scissors. Three safety pins at the top of the bag enable it to be hung up in the tent. Strong binding tapes are sewed to the bag, and it can be folded handily in three sections.--Kate Thomen, Topeka, Kans.
Cooling Foodstuffs with a Moist Rag and a Draft
It is not always necessary to keep milk and butter, or other foodstuffs, in refrigerator temperature to preserve hem, for 50 or 60° will often serve quite as well where the articles are to be consumed within a short time. To accomplish this slight degree of cooling, wrap a moist linen cloth, single thickness, snugly about the dish or package, and place it in a shallow pan of water, in an open window, out of the sun. The brick of butter should be placed on a support to hold it out of the water. The cooling is due to evaporation from the moist cloth. Not infrequently on a warm summer day, a thermometer with a bulb, wetted as suggested, will be 20° cooler in a breeze, than a dry-bulb thermometer.
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¶A table of decimal equivalents, or other information can be mounted in shellac, at an angle to be easily read, at the head of a T-square, and is quite convenient.
Device Quarters and Cores Apples and Other Fruit
To provide a simple homemade device for cutting apples and other fruit into quarters and at the same time removing the core, the arrangement shown in the sketch was made. The circular frame is built up around a ring, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, and the ribs and handles are soldered to it. A strip of galvanised iron, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, was used for the cutting portion, and the lower edge was filed sharp, and then finished with a small oil stone. In use, the cutter is set over the fruit, as shown, and by pressure on the handles, it is cut neatly.--L. N. Brown, Baltimore, Md.
Detachable Motor-Driven Tire Pump Made of Foot Pump
To make this motor-driven pump, which I use with considerable success, I fitted a bicycle foot pump to a stand, arranging it to be detached quickly. A 4-in. wooden disk was cut in two, and one-half bolted to the stirrup of the pump. A wheel, 14 in. in diameter and 2 in. thick, was mounted on a 2 by 6-in. support, as shown. A crankpin at the outer edge of the large wheel was connected to the plunger of the pump. The latter may be run with an electric motor, belted as indicated, or with other power. I use a small homemade water motor described in “Shop Notes,” with excellent results.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
Fisherman’s Pail with Wire-Mesh Cage
Oftentimes the fisherman takes a pail along on a fishing excursion so that he may bring back his catch alive, to put it in a water tank, or to keep the fish fresh. The water in an ordinary pail soon becomes stale, and the fish may die before he reaches home. They should be kept in the water of the lake or stream until the fisherman goes home. A good means of caring for them, superior to the common string, is to make a wire-mesh container, to fit inside the water pail, as shown. The mesh form can be lifted out, carrying with it all of the fish in the pail, and be set in the fresh water.--Dale R. Van Horn, Milton, Wisconsin.
Reinforcing a Strained Auto-Truck Frame
The side member of an automobile-truck frame was overstrained, and started to sag. To replace it with a new channel piece was out of the question, so it was decided to repair the trouble. A piece of ³⁄₁₆-in. plate steel was cut to the proper length, in a truss-shape, wider at the middle than at the ends, to carry the load properly. It was riveted to the strained member by means of ⁵⁄₁₆-in. round-head rivets, and prevented further sagging.
Drying Rack for Shoes and Rubbers
Footgear is injured when not properly dried out after use in water or in rough weather, and to care for the shoes, rubbers, etc., I made a rack fitted behind a stove on which they are dried out quickly and thoroughly. The rack consists of a row of brackets made of strap iron, bent as shown in the sketch, and the shoes are slipped on them. The brackets are mounted on a strip of wood, which is fastened to the wall with screws. A thin piece of board or sheet metal protects the wall.--Edgar Morgan, Robbinsdale, Minn.
Keeping Scissors Blades Apart Lengthens Their Service
Scissors will wear better and keep their cutting edges longer, if they are kept hanging up with the blades apart when not in use. The better-grade scissors, especially the longer pairs, are made with each blade slightly bowed, so that in cutting, the edges cross at an angle near the cutting point. Keeping them closed tends to weaken the springiness of the blades, and the points are worn by contact under tension.--John M. Bonbright, Philadelphia, Pa.
Making Lead Soldiers and Similar Small Castings
BY E. R. GARFIELD
The boy who likes to play games in which the lead soldier and other features of imitation warfare have a part, can make his own lead soldiers, and other castings, by the use of a plaster-of-Paris mold. If he cannot undertake this work alone, the process is interesting for his older brother, or even for “daddy.” A mold of plaster of Paris, as shown in the illustration, is used for the casting box. The hollow impression of the soldier is filled with the molten lead, which is poured in through the sprue hole at the top. When the lead cools, the mold is opened, the casting removed, and the process repeated. An entire army can thus be made with a single mold.
First obtain a small lead soldier, and coat it with shellac. Make a box somewhat larger than the pattern for the soldier, as shown in the sketch. Make it about 1¹⁄₂ in. deep, and set bolts near the corners, as shown, pouring the plaster around them. Fill the box half full of plaster of Paris. While still soft, press the pattern into the center of the plaster so that half its thickness is imbedded. Permit the under mold to dry, and remove the pattern. Shellac the surface of the plaster and the impression. Wrap a layer of oiled paper around the bolts. Replace the pattern in the impression and fill the remaining half of the box with plaster, and permit it to dry.
Also make a small wooden plug, and set it in the center, its point touching the pattern, and pour the plaster around it. When the mold is dry remove this plug, thus forming the sprue hole, through which the molten lead is poured into the mold.
When the second part of the mold is dry, lift it carefully from the under mold, and remove the pattern. Shellac the surface of the top mold, cleaning away any small bits of plaster around the edges. Trim down the box so that the top mold projects over it about ³⁄₈ in., making it easy to drop the top mold into place over the bolts. To use the mold, make certain that it is clean inside and set the top into place. Fasten down the wing nuts at the washers. Be very careful that the mold is dry, as hot metal poured on a wet surface may cause a dangerous splash. Repeat this process, and if care is taken about 300 castings can be made with one mold. The soldiers can be painted suitably and even sold in sets. The process can be adapted to many forms of other small castings, using other suitable metals, or wax, where the casting is to be molded into shape further.
A Trap Nest for the Poultry House
Poultry raisers find a trap nest useful, and one can be made quickly by fitting an old packing box with a suitable sliding gate. In the arrangement shown, the gate is raised slightly as the hen enters the nest box, releasing the spring and causing the gate to drop. The gate and spring can be adjusted to various-sized breeds of poultry. The two grooved uprights can be cut from flooring and the other wooden parts made from laths or wooden strips. The trigger is made of wire.--A. J. Call, Hartsville, Mass.
A Simple Wireless Detector
A cheap and serviceable wireless detector was made from odds and ends such as any amateur can obtain. The base was made of wood, saturated in paraffin. The mineral cup is a brass cap from a cartridge fuse. The upright was made of a piece of copper, ¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and is fastened to the base by an old-battery binding post. The spring which supports the cat whisker is made of a strip of copper, ¹⁄₃₂ in. by ³⁄₁₆ in. wide. The cat whisker is soldered to the spring, and the spring is bolted to the upright. The setscrew, which regulates the pressure of the cat whisker upon the mineral, works in a nut, soldered over a hole in the top of the upright. The cat whisker is made of No. 22 gauge bare copper wire. The connection between the cup and the battery binding post, at the front edge, is made on the under side of the base.--Charles Brinkmann, Chicago, Ill.
A Wire-Screen Pincushion
Pins placed in a pincushion like that shown automatically arrange themselves vertically, head up, so that they may be removed handily when needed. The pincushion is durable, and a useful device for the desk. It is made by binding two layers of ordinary screen wire between wooden frames, mounted on a wooden base, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, and 3¹⁄₂ in. long. The frame can be finished neatly, and made of hard wood to match other desk fittings.--D. J. McKean, San Francisco, Calif.
Straightening Sheets of Paper
When a sheet of paper, a drawing, or a blueprint becomes curved or warped, it is annoying to use the sheet unless it is straightened. An easy method of doing this is to lay the sheet flat on the edge of a drawing board or table and draw it down over the edge, the hand pressing down on the paper, stretching it out. This, repeated several times, will soon smooth a much-curled sheet.
Emergency Tension Weight Used on Typewriter
If the band that draws the typewriter carriage should break, the operator can continue to write until proper repairs are made by a temporary substitute for the spring tension. Tie a string to the carriage, where it will not become entangled in the mechanism, and attach a weight, about equal to the pull of the spring, to the string. Let the weight hang over the edge of the desk, to the left of the machine. It will pull the carriage along, as does the usual tension device.
Improvised Penholder Made with Pencil and Clip
An ordinary pencil clip can be used to make a practical penholder by sliding it to the end of the pencil, as shown, and inserting the pen under it. The tension of the clip holds the pen firmly, and provides a serviceable holder, for emergency use, or even for permanent use, where a pen and pencil combined are desired.--Raymond B. Rogers, Portland, Ore.
Generator Attachment Provides Current for Bicycle Lamp
Rigging up a small dynamo on the bicycle is a simple job, the dynamo being belted from a friction pulley, making connections with the rubber tire of the rear wheel, as shown. Fig. 1 shows the make-up of the head lamp. It is composed of a tin cylinder, grooved at one end to hold the lens; at the other end of the cylinder is fastened a ³⁄₄-in. wooden disk, to which the lamp socket is fixed. Clamp straps hold the lamp on the fork frame. The small lamp, inserted in the socket, holds the reflector in place.
The dynamo-driving arrangement is shown in Fig. 2, and detailed in Fig. 3. A leather belt fits in the groove side of the wooden pulley. The swinging pulley arm supports and clamps the driving arrangement. A spring holds the friction wheel against the tire, and to release it, the “off” lever is used. A small direct-current dynamo serves well, and may also be used to operate the horn and whistle.--G. F. Thompson, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Eccentric Drawbolt Stops Rattling of Door
A simple method of preventing a bolted door from rattling, by forcing it against the doorstop, or a weather strip, by means of an eccentric filed on the socket end of the bolt, is shown in the sketch. The bolt is fitted closely to the door and casing, and, when the bolt is turned so that the eccentric end is in action, the door is forced firmly against the doorstop.--C. H. Chambers, Schenectady, N. Y.
Handy Kink in Addressing Mailing Tubes
The job of addressing a large number of mailing tubes is an awkward one, unless the tube is set so that its upper edge is on a level with the hand. A convenient method of doing this, and a kink which is permanently useful where mailing tubes are to be addressed from time to time, is to arrange ordinary coat hooks at the side of the desk near the front corner, as shown. The tube is placed on the hooks, its upper edge even with the top of the desk, making the writing of the address as handy as in writing ordinarily.
A Flash-Light Egg-Candling Device
A pocket electric flash light can be easily used for testing eggs if equipped in the following manner: Take an ordinary tin funnel and cut off the spout so the small end will fit snugly over the lens of the flash light. Prepare the larger end of the funnel to accommodate a tin-can cover, so the cover will fit tight. Cut out the face of the cover, leaving a ¹⁄₂-in. rim all around, and file the edge. Then cut a 1-in. hole in a piece of felt, place it over the large end of the funnel, and force the cover over it. This may be quickly slipped on and off the flash light and carried in the pocket. The egg to be tested is placed on the felt, over the opening, and the lamp held vertically, the operator looking down on the egg.
Simple Arrangement for Releasing Camera Shutter from Distance
It is usually disappointing to the amateur photographer, when taking pictures of groups of which he is a member, not to be able to be in the pictures. However, most amateurs can construct a release arrangement, in a few minutes, that operates with satisfaction. A clothespin of the clip type is used. The spring should be weakened by bending it from the wood, so that it has just enough tension to bring the jaws of the clothespin together without a snap. Whittle the inner sides of the handles, as shown, so that the jaws accommodate the plunger of the shutter. Then saw a slot in the handles, ¹⁄₄ in. deep and ¹⁄₈ in. wide. Drill a ³⁄₁₆-in. hole in the whittled depression of one of the jaws, and cut a ¹⁄₈-in. slot to it, as shown. The small trigger piece is cut of hard wood. It should fit its slot snugly, at the other end of the pin.
The release device is operated as follows: Slip the plunger tube, with the shutter release cable, into its slot. Keeping the jaws wide open, place the trigger in the slots of the two compressed handles. It is only necessary to jerk a thread attached to the trigger to free the two handles, which in turn snap the plunger. If the tension on the jaws is too strong, put a rubber band around the handles to act as a check.--Werner W. Baumeister, Walla Walla, Wash.
A Crossbow Magazine Gun
A new type of bow gun that a boy can make, and which will give him plenty of good sport, is one of the repeating or magazine variety. To make the gun, cut a soft pine board, 40 in. long and 5 in. wide. With a saw and knife, cut the gun form as shown. Cut a groove along the top of the barrel, where the arrow will lie ready to be shot out when the hickory bow is released. The magazine holding the five arrows is made of thin boards, 24 in. long, and is held in place by four small strips. The magazine is 3 in. deep, thus permitting the five arrows to lie evenly in it without crowding. The bow is of seasoned hickory and is set into the end of the barrel. The notch in which the bowstring catches, should be cut just under the rear end of the magazine. The trigger is an L-shaped, pivoted piece, and pushes the cord off the notch when ready to fire. As soon as the first arrow leaves the gun the one just above it drops down into the groove when the bowstring is again pulled back into place behind the notch. Pressure on the trigger shoots this arrow, another takes its place, and the cord is pulled back once more. The arrows should be of light pine, 22 in. long and ¹⁄₂ in. square, the rear end notched and the front pointed. To make the arrow shoot in a straight course, and to give it proper weight, the head end should be bored with a ³⁄₁₆ in. bit, 3 in. deep, and melted lead run into the hole.--E. F. Dalton, Cincinnati, Ohio.
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¶Ruling pens often work improperly, or have a tendency to cut the paper because of tiny feather edges at the points. These should be carefully honed and stropped off.
Egg Beater Made into Winder for Model Aeroplanes
One of the features which take the joy out of flying elastic-driven model aeroplanes is the time taken to wind them up. For 10 cents and very little work a fast winder can be made out of an ordinary geared egg beater. Remove the outer small pinion and the revolving beater attached to it. Then cut the other beater off at A, as shown in the sketch, and the spindle at B. A few turns of tinned wire soldered to the spindle will keep the pinion from sliding off. Another piece of the same wire may be soldered to the two arms, at C, to strengthen them. In use, the hub of the propeller is inserted between the two arms, as indicated and the rubber wound.--Morris G. Miller, New Rochelle, N. Y.
Stove Lighter with Feeding Wick Guards against Burns
A stove lighter for gasoline or similar stoves can be made quickly. Cut a piece of tin, 7 in. long and 1 in. wide. Place a lamp, wick on the tin so that a part of it projects from the end of the tin. Fold the tin so that the wick is held, but so that it can be drawn out when needed. Saturate the wick in kerosene, or other thicker oil. When wishing to light one or more burners of the stove, light the wick and apply it to the burners. The stove can be lighted with less danger of burning the hands than when a match is used directly.--Lee M. Delzell, Maroa, Ill.
Mechanical Toy Alligator of Wood
A toy alligator that opens its mouth and wags its tail as it is pulled along can be made of wood by a boy, with a jackknife. The various parts, as shown, are cut from soft wood, ¹⁄₂ in. thick. The method of fastening the parts is shown in the side sectional view. When the wheels turn, the cams A, set on the crank portions of the wheel axles, raise and lower the jaw and tail. The upper jaw is 1 in. wide at the widest part, and 3 in. long. The lower jaw is smaller, and the same length. The body is 6 in. long, and tapering in width from 1¹⁄₂ to ³⁄₄ in. The tail is 4³⁄₄ in. long, and ³⁄₄ in. wide. Holes are drilled in each piece near the edge, at joining points, through which wires are drawn, and clamped, as at B. The legs are shown in detail. They are attached to the body by drilling a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole in each, and a hole through the body, through which the fastenings are passed. The lower end of the legs are fastened to the base, which is 3 by 9 in. long. Square holes, 1 in. wide, near each end, are provided for the cams A. The axles and wheels are made as shown. The axles fit tightly in the wheels, so that the latter can move the axles around with each turn. The axles are made from ¹⁄₈-in. wire, bent as shown, and should be long enough, after passing through the bottom, to extend through the wheels on each side.--Charles C. Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.
Angle Bracket Gives Leverage on Door Spring
Frequently, in placing a coil spring on a screen or other door, the casing is flush with the door, and it is difficult to give the spring the desired leverage. If it is attached to the casing directly, the surface is marred by the rubbing of the spring. A good method is to set a small iron bracket, either homemade of strap iron or one of the commercial type, on the casing and attach the end of the spring to the bracket. This prevents the spring from rubbing on the door and casing, and gives it freedom of action.--Harry L. Dixon, Chicago, Ill.
Combination Indirect-Light Reflector and Mirror
A small mirror combined with a shaded electric lamp affords a nearly perfect shaving lamp, and facial toilet mirror. The mirror should be 1 in. smaller all around than the reflector. By soldering two lengths of stiff wire to the back of the mirror frame, it can be clamped to the reflector, as shown. The indirect light from the reflector illuminates the face without shadows or glare, adding to the comfort of shaving. The mirror can be removed, and the lamp used for other purposes.--Thomas W. Benson, Philadelphia, Pa.
CONTENTS
Acetylene Burner, Spray Nozzle Made of, 248 Acid Jars, Earthen Mustard Pots Used as, 391 Adhesive Tape, Handy Use for, 407 Aerial Cableway, Compensated, 198 Aerials, Wireless, Lightning Switch for, 415 Aeroplanes, Model, Egg Beater Made into Winder for, 459 Aid in Ruling Uniform Cards or Sheets, 420 Air Pump, Protecting Against Denting, 412 Alarm, Rain, with Drop-of-Water Contact, 161 Alcohol Blowtorch for Difficult Soldering, 382 Alcohol, Denatured, to Start Gasoline Stove, 413 Alcohol Stove, Emergency, 350 Alligator of Wood, Mechanical Toy, 460 Alternating Current, Seeing in a Mirror, 392 Aluminum Cooking Utensils, Mending, 437 Aluminum-Ware Cleaner, Steel Wool as, 162 Ammeter, Homemade, 253 Ammonia-Carrying Case for Insect Bites, 154 Anchor for Canoe or Small Boat, 275 Anemometer, Easily Constructed Ball-Bearing, 213 Angle Bracket Gives Leverage on Door Spring, 460 Angle of Camera, Photo Copying Lens Increases, 160 Annunciator Target, Recording, 310 Apples and Other Fruit, Device Quarters and Cores, 453 Applying and Drying Bronze Powders, 338 Appointments and Other Events, Clock Device to Record Time of, 322 Aquarium, Cement Grotto for, 235 Arc Light, Homemade, 285 Arm, Desk Light, Folds into Pigeonhole, 452 Arm, Detachable Chair, 429 Armchair, Enameled, Made of Wooden Strips, 129 Arms of a Scarecrow, Swinging Bags on, 340 Army in Small Box, 438 Artistic Card Tray, 340 Asbestos Table Mats Reinforced with Wire Netting, 421 Ash Tray, Cheese Grater and, Made from a Tin Can, 225 Ash Tray, Snapper Shell, 68 Athletic Equipment Locker, Boys’, 439 Atomizer, Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid in, 450 Auto Horn for Child’s Play Vehicle, 16 Auto, Play, Barrel Staves as Springs for, 311 Auto Truck Frame, Reinforcing Strained, 454 Automatic Fishhook, 370 Automatic Flash Light Snaps Chicken-Coop Marauder, 142 Automatic Lock Box for Milk Bottles, 428 Automatic Photo-Print Washing Device, 329 Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller Curtains, 317 Automatic Window Closer, 280 Automobile, Bicycle Carried on, as Tender, 190 Automobile Seat, Porch Swing Made from, 425 Automobile, Suitcase Holder for Running Board of, 329
Baby-Cab Tires, Changing Wheels Equalizes Wear on, 446 Baby Crib, Neat and Economical, Made from a Clothes Basket, 206 Baby, Motor-Driven Entertainer for, 4 Baby, Washstand for, 328 Baby’s Play Area, Portable Fence for, 195 Back Rest, Folding Ground Seat with, 190 Backing Picture Frame, Plier Drives Nails in, 450 Backstop, Knock-Down Tennis-Court, 189 Backwoodsman’s Nutcracker, 450 Bags, Swinging, on Arms of Scarecrow, 340 Bait Cache, Campers’, 171 Bait Casting for Game Fish, 71 Bait, Catching Minnows for, 168 Bait, Luminous-Minnow Fish, 314 Ball-Bearing Anemometer, Easily Constructed, 213 Balloons, Toy Rubber, Filling with Hydrogen, 30 Band, Metal, Stiffens Brush, 367 Bare Spots on Lawns, Seeding, 167 Bark-Covered Porch Light and Plant Shelf, 432 Barnyard Gate Operated with the Foot, 208 Barometer, Simple, 415 Barrel, Cushioned Chair Made of, 440 Barrel Staves as Springs for Play Auto, 311 Base, Weighting Metal, 217 Baseball Playing, To Practice Batting for, 100 Basement, Signal for Lighted Lights in, 314 Basin, Dish-Draining, Old Sink Installed as, 452 Basin, Simple Metal Bird, 432 Basket, Hourglass Sewing, 137 Bathroom Kinks, Three, 402 Battery Buzzer Converted into a Telegraph Sounder, 141 Battery Circuits, Homemade Fuses for, 151 Batting for Baseball Playing, To Practice, 100 Bazaar or Fair Booth, Rustic Well for, 182 Bearing for Playground Swings, 276 Bearing Made of Brass Cartridge, 382 Beating, Hanging Heavy Rug on Line for, 389 Bed, Antique Signboard Made of Headboard of, 15 Bed, Folding Card Table Handy for Invalid in, 308 Bed Table, Adjustable and Pivoted, Attached to Bedpost, 9 Bedpost, Adjustable and Pivoted Bed Table Attached to, 9 Bedroom Night Light, Flash Light Used as, 423 Bedroom Shade and Curtains Arranged for Thorough Ventilation, 128 Bedsteads, Old, Lawn Benches Made from, 174 Bee Feeder for Winter Use, 192 Bell, Call, Curious Support for, 362 Bell-Circuit Wiring, Tinned Staples for, 420 Bell-Ringing Hoop, Child’s, 449 Bell-Ringing Mail Box, 422 Belt for Sprocket Drive Made of Brass Strips, 160 Bench, Clamping a Wide Board on, 248 Bench Receptacles for Small Articles, 350 Bench Stop, 395 Bench Support for a Miter Box, 336 Bench Vise, Quick-Acting, 85 Benches, Lawn, Made from Old Bedsteads, 174 Berth, Train, Improved Trousers Hanger in, 367 Bicycle Carried on Automobile as Tender, 190 Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble Motorcycle, 441 Bicycle-Handle Grip on Rake Handle, 372 Bicycle Lamp, Generator Attachment Provides Current for, 457 Bicycle, Parcel-Delivery, Sidecar for, 407 Bicycle Pump, Cleaning Type Cases with, 451 Bicycle Pump, Pneumatic Door Check Made of, 169 Bicycle, Rear Seat for Motorcycle or, 446 Bicycle Runners for Winter Use, 418 Bicycles Driven as Three-Wheel Tandem After Breakdown, 410 Bilge Water Siphoned Through Water-Jacket Outlet, 413 Billfold, Craftsman Leather, 446 Billfold, Squirrel-Skin, 265 Binder for Magazines, Temporary, 370 Binding, Knife to Trim Magazines for, 286 Birch-Bark Leggings Made in the Woods, 421 Bird Basin, Simple Metal, 432 Bird House Made of Kegs, 134 Bird House Made of Old Straw Hat, 181 Bird Photography, Camera for, 426 Bird Table, Cat-Proof, 76 Bites, Insect, Ammonia-Carrying Case for, 154 Blades, Propeller, How to Make Quickly, 395 Blind Person, Homemade Device Aids in Writing, 438 Block Plane Converted for Use on Circular Work, 211 Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves Time, 295 Blotter, Trick, 354 Blotting Paper, White, Improves Light Reflectors, 196 Blower for a Fireplace, 318 Blowpipe for Gas, 336 Blowtorch, Alcohol, for Difficult Soldering, 382 Blue Roses Tinged by Chemicals, 406 Board, Sliding, for Coasting, 14 Board, Wide, Clamping on a Bench, 248 Boat, Canoe or, Stored in Pulley Slings, 361 Boat, Portable Folding, 135 Boat, Small, Canoe or, Anchor for, 275 Boats, Model Paddle-Wheel, 443 Book and Document Protector, 294 Book Form, Keeping Magazines in, 378 Book Holder, Homemade, 193 Book Rest for Music Stand, 328 Book, Specimen, Preserving Leaves in, 10 Bookcase and Writing Desk, Combination, 316 Bookcase, Trunk, for Convenient Shipment, 217 Bookmark, Leather and Silk, 218 Bookshelf, Index for Popular Mechanics Magazine on, 308 Bookshelf, Secret Trinket Case for, 296 Booth, Bazaar or Fair, Rustic Well for, 182 Bottle Carrier Made of Pipe Straps, 217 Bottle, Die in, 276 Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid in Atomizer, 450 Bottle, Glass, as a Candle Lamp, 291 Bottle, Glass, Cutting with Electricity, 230 Bottle, To Uncork, with a String, 402 Boughs, Springy Hammock Support Made of, 369 Box, Automatic Lock, for Milk Bottles, 428 Box Camera, Direct View Finder for, 353 Box Cover, Hinged, Made Without Hinges, 141 Box Cover Without Hinges, 46 Box End, Scoop Made of, 433 Box for Campers, Table, 124 Box Farm, Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made in, 409 Box, Hinged Window, 413 Box, Loading, to Dispense with Dark Room, 268 Box, Novel Covered, for Index Trays, 414 Box, Pasteboard, Shortening, 337 Box, Small, Army in, 438 Box to Protect Extra Spark Plugs, 440 Boxes, Decorative Toys and, Made at Home, 299 Boy Can Make Useful Periscope, 305 Boys’ Athletic-Equipment Locker, 439 Boys’ Motor Car, Homemade, 1 Bracelet, One-Piece, Cut from Calling Card, 319 Bracket, Angle, Gives Leverage on Door Spring, 460 Bracket for Garden Hose, Practical, 417 Bracket, Gas-Hose, for Ironing or Shop Use, 360 Brake, Safety, Coaster with, 273 Brass Candlestick, Repairing, 372 Brass Cartridge, Bearing Made of, 382 Brass Machine Screws with Nuts, 68 Brass Strips, Belt for Sprocket Drive Made of, 160 Brass Tip on Cartridge Fuse, Bushing Made of, 393 Brick Walls, Wire Trellis Fastened Neatly to, 8 Bristles in Polish or Stencil Brushes, Wire Compacts, 439 Broken Canoe Paddle, Repairing, 158 Broken Coffee Pot Knob, Replacing, 226 Broken Fly-Screen Frame, Repairing, 356 Broken Liquid Column in Thermometer, Joining, 366 Broken Metal Cross, Repairing, 389 Broken Places on Enamel, Filling in, 178 Broken Reed Handle, Repairing, 187 Broken Spade Handle Repaired with Water Pipe, 242 Bromide Enlargements, Curved Printing Surface for Sharp Focus in, 186 Bromide Enlargements, Test Exposure for, 411 Bromide Enlargements, Washing, 336 Bronze Powders, Applying and Drying, 338 Brooder, 371 Brooding House, Chick, Shield for Heater in, 295 Broom, Moving Heavy Objects with, 445 Brush and Container, Mucilage, Made of a Test Tube, 335 Brush-Cutting Knife, Pruning and, 449 Brush, Metal Band Stiffens, 367 Brushes, Polish or Stencil, Wire Compacts Bristles in, 439 Buggy Shafts, Old, Toboggan Made of, 410 Buggy Springs, Discarded, for Diving Board, 429 Bulb, Light, Testing Dry Cells with, 267 Bumpers, Door, Raise Height of Chair, 358 Bungalow, California, for Canaries, 437 Bunghole, Stopper for, 254 Burns, Stove Lighter with Feeding Wick Guards Against, 459 Bushing Made of Brass Tip on Cartridge Fuse, 393 Button Clasps, Old, Practical Uses for, 432 Buttonhole-Bouquet Holder to Keep Cut Flowers Fresh, 149 Buttonhook, Fancy, How to Make, 371 Buttonhook, Screwdriver Made from, 362 Buttons, Miniature Push, 251 Butts, Plain, Used as Double-Swing Hinge, 330 Buzzer, Battery, Converted into a Telegraph Sounder, 141
Cabinet and Table, Combination Camp-Kitchen, 126 Cabinet Doors, Wire Holders Keep Open, 127 Cabinet, Homemade Talking Machine, 310 Cabinet, Magic, 345 Cabinet or Cellarette, Smoker’s, 32 Cabinet, Sportsman’s, for Guns, Equipment and Books, 434 Cabinetwork, Storage of Wood for, 389 Cableway, Compensated Aerial, 198 Cage, Wire-Mesh, Fisherman’s Pail with, 454 Cakes, Pop-Corn, How to Make, 153 Calendar, Perpetual, 43 California Bungalow for Canaries, 437 Calipers, Homemade, 373 Call Bell, Curious Support for, 362 Calling Card, One-Piece Bracelet Cut from, 319 Camera, Box, Direct View Finder for, 353 Camera, Enlarging, Improvised Post-Card Projector and, 209 Camera for Bird Photography, 426 Camera for Taking Pictures from Kite, 52 Camera Shutter, Simple Arrangement for Releasing from Distance, 458 Camera, Submarine, 219 Camera, Substitute for Ground Glass in, 236 Camera, Photo-Copying Lens Increases Angle of, 160 Camera Tripod, Tilting Top for, 242 Camera View Finder, Rectangular Opening to Use Over, 125 Cameras, Enlarging, Focusing Screen for, 388 Camp Chest, Guarding Against Theft, 362 Camp Equipment, Care and Storage of, 304 Camp Fire, Utensil Rack for, 397 Camp-Kitchen Cabinet and Table, Combination, 126 Camp Lantern Made of a Tin Can, 406 Camp or Kitchen, Slicing Board for, 247 Camp, Shaving Lamp and Mirror for, 162 Camp Shelter Affords Protection from Mosquitoes, 181 Camp Stoves, Emergency, Quickly Made, 449 Camp, Summer, Diving Tower for, 274 Camp Water Bag, 122 Camper’s Bait Cache, 171 Camper’s Salt-and-Pepper Holder, 115 Campers, Table Box for, 124 Campfire, Water Wheel Turns Spit Over, 429 Camping and Outing Trips, Memorandum List for, 365 Camping Out, Tricks of: