PART III--Construction of the Track System
Operation of the electric-locomotive model described in the previous articles is feasible only with a properly constructed track system. This equipment, including curves and switches, is to be described in this, the final, article. Two functions are to be performed by the track system: It must serve as a support and guide for the locomotive and provide a path over which the current from the source of energy is supplied to the motor within the locomotive and returned to the source. On this basis, then, the construction may be divided into two parts: the mechanical and the electrical features. If the mechanical construction is not practical and accurate, the locomotive will not operate satisfactorily. The electrical connections must be given due care also.
The track should be of uniform gauge; the joints should be solid and free from irregularities, which cause “bumping” in passing over them. The material used should be stiff, so that it will retain its form, and preferably non-rusting. The rails must be insulated from each other, and proper means must be provided for making suitable electrical connections between the various sections. The construction of a straight and a curved section of track, together with a switch and signal, adaptable to various places on the system, will be considered in detail.
The straight sections may be made any suitable length; sections 16 in. long will be found convenient, as the metal pieces forming the rails may be bent into shape easily when they are short rather than long. The possibility of various combinations of straight and curved sections in a given area is increased by having the sections shorter. The rails may be made from tinned sheet-metal strips, by taking pieces, 16 in. long and 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, and bending them into the form shown in Fig. 1. The rails should be mounted on small wooden sleepers, ¹⁄₂ by ¹⁄₂ by 4 in., by means of small nails, or preferably small screws. The distance between the centers of the rails should be 2 in. The sections of track may be fastened together at the ends by means of a special connector, shown in Fig. 2, made from thin metal, preferably spring brass. The type of connector shown in Fig. 2 will not prevent the sections from pulling apart, and to prevent this, a second connector, similar to that shown in Fig. 3, should be made. The sleepers at the ends of each section should have one side beveled, as shown, and these edges should be exactly one inch from the end of the rails. A spring clip should be made, similar to that shown, which will slip down on the inside of the end sleepers and hold the sections together.
A better form of rail is shown in Figs. 3 and 4, but it is somewhat more difficult to construct. In this case, instead of bending the piece of metal forming the rail over on itself and closing the space entirely, the metal is bent over a round form, such as a piece of wire, which may be removed, leaving an opening through the upper part of the rail from end to end. This gives a better form to the tread of the rail and at the same time provides an easy means of connecting the ends of the rails, as shown in Fig. 5. Small metal pins, about 1 in. long, and of such a diameter that they will just fit the circular opening in the top of the rail, are provided. One of these pins should be fastened in one rail at each end of a section, making sure that no rail has more than one pin in it, and that the arrangement of pins and rails corresponds in all sections. With proper care the various sections should fit together equally well, and they may be held together as shown in Fig. 3.
The curved sections may be made from rails similar to those described above, but some difficulty will be experienced in bending them into a curve because of the necessity of bending the lower flange on edge. The difficulty may be overcome by crimping in the inner edge of the lower flange and expanding the outer edge by hammering it on a smooth surface. The radius of the curve to which the inner rail should be bent in order to give a section of convenient length, and not too abrupt a curve, is 21 in. The circumference of such a circle is approximately 132 in., which, divided into eight sections, gives 16¹⁄₂ in. as the length of the inner rail of each section. Since the tread of the track is 2 in., the radius of the curve of the outer rail will be 23 in. The circumference of the circle formed by the outer rail is 145 in., which divided into eight sections gives 18¹⁄₈ in. as the length of the outer rail of each section. These curved rails may be mounted on sleepers, their ends being held in place, and the various sections fastened together, just as in the case of the straight sections.
Some trouble may be experienced in getting the curved rails properly shaped, and it would be a good plan to lay them out full size by drawing two circles on a smooth surface having diameters of 42 and 46 in., respectively, and divide each of the latter into eight equal parts. The form of the curve between these division lines and the lengths of the curves will correspond to the shape and lengths of the rails forming the curved sections of the track. The pieces should be cut slightly longer than required, and after they are bent into shape their length can be determined precisely and extra portions cut off. Each curved section will correspond to ¹⁄₈ of the complete circle, or 45°, as shown in Fig. 6.
The switches for the track may be of two kinds: left and right. They are named according to whether the car is carried to the left or right of the main track with reference to the direction in which the car moves in entering the switch. A left switch is shown in Fig. 7, and a right switch in Fig. 8, the direction of movement being indicated by the arrows.
A detailed drawing of a right switch is shown in Fig. 9. Rail A corresponds in form and length to the outer rail of one of the curved sections previously described; rail B corresponds to the inner rail of one of the curved sections except that 2¹⁄₂ in. of straight rail is added at the left end. Rail C is a straight portion of rail, 18 in. in length, with a part of the base cut away at the switch, and rail D is a section of straight rail, 15¹⁄₂ in. in length, with the base cut away where it crosses rail A. The ends of rails D and A are hinged at the points E and F, 3³⁄₄ in. from the left end, with pins driven into the ties. The outside edges of the pieces G and H are filed off so they will fit up against the rails C and B respectively. Both the pieces G and H are attached to a strip of fiber insulating material, I, at their left-hand ends, in such a way that when the piece H is against the rail B, the piece G is away from the rail C about ³⁄₁₆ in.; when the end of the piece G is drawn over against the rail C, the end of the piece H is drawn away from the rail B about ³⁄₁₆ in. With these two combinations the car may be made to move along the main track or to the right on the curved track. The two long sleepers J and K are to provide a mounting for the switch-control lever and signal.
The rail A is not continuous where the rail D crosses it, but is broken as shown in the figure. A small notch should be cut in the surface of the rail D where it crosses the rail A, for the flange of the car wheels to roll through when the car is moving onto or off the switch. The sections of the rails A and D must be connected electrically. Rail A must be connected to rail C, and rail B to rail D.
It is obvious from an inspection of Fig. 9, at L, that rail D will be connected to rail A when the car is on the switch, the car wheels passing over the point L, and a short circuit will result. This may be prevented by insulating the short section of the rail D at this point from the remainder of the rail, but the length of the insulated section must not be greater than the distance between the wheels on one side of the car; otherwise the circuit through the motor would be broken. If this is the case, and the car stops on the main track with both wheels on the insulated section, it would be impossible to start the locomotive until one wheel was moved to a live part of the rail.
The switch control is shown in Fig. 10, and the letters C, G, and I correspond to those given in Fig. 9. A ¹⁄₈-in. rod, about 4 in. in length, is bent into the form shown at M. It is mounted in a frame, the details of which are shown in Fig. 11. A small arm, N, with a hinged handle, O, is soldered to the rod, after it is placed in position in the switch frame. The arm N and the lever P should be parallel with each other. If properly constructed, the handle O will drop into the notches in the top of the switch frame, and prevent the rod M from turning. A connection should be made from the lever P to the end of the piece I, which will result in the switch being operated when the rod M is rotated one-fourth of a turn. After this connection is made, the frame of the switch should be fastened to the ends of the long sleepers, which were provided when the track part of the switch was constructed. Two small disks, mounted at right angles to each other, will serve as signals when properly painted, or as an indication of the open or closed position of the switch.
The speed of the car on the track may be controlled by inserting resistance in series with the battery or source of electrical energy, or by altering the value of the voltage between the rails, by changing the connections of the cells forming the battery. The direction of movement of the locomotive cannot be changed unless the car is turned end for end, or the connections of the armature or field winding--not both--are reversed. The switch on the bottom of the locomotive reverses these connections.
A small rheostat, which will give the desired resistance, may be constructed as follows: Obtain a piece of hard wood, 4 by 5 in., and ³⁄₈ in. in thickness. Lay out a curve on this piece, as shown in Fig. 12 by the row of small circles. Procure eight round-headed brass machine screws, about ¹⁄₈ in. in diameter and ³⁄₄ in. in length, and 16 nuts to fit them. Drill eight ¹⁄₈-in. holes along the curve, spacing them ³⁄₈ in. apart. File the heads of the screws off flat and mount the screws in these holes. Make a metal arm, S, and mount it on a small bolt passing through a hole drilled at the center from which the curve was drawn, along which the screws were mounted. This arm should be of such a length that its outer end will move over the heads of the screws. Mount two binding posts, Q and R, in the upper corners of the board and connect R to screw No. 8, and Q to the bolt holding the arm S in place. Connect small resistance coils between the screws, starting with screw No. 2; screw No. 1 corresponds to an open circuit and is shown in contact with the arm S. Two stops, indicated by the black spots, should be provided, to prevent the arm from moving back of screw No. 1 or beyond screw No. 8. The board may now be mounted on a suitable hollow base, and the rheostat is complete.
Two binding posts should be mounted on the ties of one section of the track, and one of them electrically connected to each of the two rails, which will give an easy means of making the necessary electrical connections to the source of energy. After careful examination, to make certain that the locomotive is in running order, a test run may be made. If the locomotive operates properly and difficulty is experienced when it is placed upon the track, check up thoroughly on all rail connections, insulations, and other elements in the electrical equipment. Cars of a proper gauge may be coupled to the locomotive, and “runs” made as extensively as the track system will permit.
Sleeve Aids in Distinguishing Gas-Fixture Chains
Annoyance through inability to locate quickly the proper chain for lighting a gas lamp in the dark was overcome by fitting a small brass tube to one of the chains as shown in the illustration. The tube was soldered to the chain by which the light is turned on and the other chain passes through the tube and is grasped below it. To turn on the light, it is only necessary to slide the hand along both chains and to grip the tube, drawing on the chain attached to it. To turn the light off, the exposed end of the other chain is drawn.--Thomas W. Benson, Hastings upon Hudson, N. Y.
An Ornamental Horn Match Holder
A match holder made of the horn shell of cattle hoofs mounted on a wooden shield, as shown in the sketch is both ornamental and useful. One of the pockets holds the unused matches and the other the burnt ones. The hoofs were cleaned thoroughly and polished and the edge of the shield was beveled off and varnished in the natural color of the wood. The front was lacquered black and also varnished.
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¶A small flat piece of wood is convenient for pointing up an eraser.
Driving Thin Metal into Wood
A slender piece of flat, or round, metal may be driven into a wood handle without breaking the wood or bending the metal, if it is placed in a vise and the wood part driven onto the small portion projecting from the jaws of the vise. Repeat the operation until the metal is driven far enough into the wood.
Slicing Board for Camp or Kitchen
The board illustrated was suggested by a device used by a “sandwich man,” and proved practical for use in the home and especially in the camp. Potatoes, or other articles of food to be sliced, are placed in the hollow portion of the board and moved against the edge at the right, under the knife. The guide, which may be adjusted by means of the wing nut, permits slices of varying thickness to be cut.--Robert C. Knox, St. Petersburg, Fla.
Cleanly Pencil Sharpener
Pencils may be pointed without spreading the dust from them by the use of the device shown in the illustration. A piece of emery paper is fixed to one side of the cover of the box. By turning over the cover with a handle, after a pencil has been pointed, the dust may be dropped into the box and removed from time to time.--Sidney Block, Detroit, Mich.
A Weeding Tool
A handy weeding tool may be made of an old case knife--one of the kind having a wood handle is the best. Remove the handle sides and heat the blade about 1 in. from the end, then bend it at right angles as shown at A. Ream out the rivet holes in the handle large enough to allow screws, about 1 in. in size, to enter. Procure an old broom handle and saw a slot in one end deep enough to receive the knife shank, and fasten it with screws, as shown at B. This makes an excellent tool for removing weeds from beds of young radish, lettuce and other plants, as it is possible to get close to the plant stem without injuring it.--Contributed by L. G. Burnand, Lyons, Iowa.
Spray Nozzle Made of Acetylene Burner
An acetylene burner makes a first-class spray nozzle, even though the lava tips are broken off level with the metal. The burner may be secured on a short piece of pipe, as at A, and this inserted in a hose, or it may be pushed into a hose and wound with wire, as shown at B.
Clamping a Wide Board on a Bench
Having occasion to cut a groove on the surface of a board too wide for the vise, I rigged up the arrangement shown to hold it. The board was laid on the bench with the edge slightly projecting, then I nailed a block firmly to the bench, close to the edge of the board, and placed a stick in the vise as shown. When the vise screw was turned up, the board was gripped solidly.--Contributed by S. H. Bosuston, Victoria, B. C.
Feeding Pan for Poultry
An excellent water or feeding pan for small chicks can be made of concrete. Take an old pan and place it in an inverted position in a shallow box, as shown in the sketch, then mix the concrete and pour it over the pan. When the cement sets, turn it over and a pan will be had that small chicks can climb out of, should they get into it.
Metal Floor Corners
The hardest part of a room or stairway to clean is the corners, and these always collect a good quantity of dirt. Instead of removing the dirt each time, a better plan is to fix the corner as shown in the illustration. A triangular piece of brass or copper, 2 in. on each side, is fastened into the corner with one nail through the center. These metal pieces are especially desirable in public buildings.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.
Measuring Resistance with a Lead Pencil
BY JOHN D. ADAMS
There are very few electrical experimenters who can afford a Wheatstone bridge for measuring resistances, and yet, if one is to gain any knowledge from his experiments, it is very necessary to know what resistance is being used, particularly in handling 110 volts. The amateur will find the following method very useful.
There are several brands of lead pencils, the leads of which have a resistance of 200 to 300 ohms, while others have comparatively little resistance. Soak several pencils--preferably the large kind carpenters use--in water over night so that the leads may be removed without breaking. Connect up two 40-watt lamps in series and note how they burn. Then replace one lamp with a lead and note the relative intensity with which the remaining lamp burns. If the lead is of a sufficiently high resistance it will cut down the illumination about as much as the additional lamp.
Having selected a lead, mount it on a suitable board, holding it in place by clamping each end under a strip of brass held down with wood screws. Next screw in place two porcelain receptacles and place three binding posts in position, all as shown in the sketch. Connect up as indicated, and attach a short length of flexible cord, with a metal tip on the free end, to one terminal of the central receptacle. Procure a cheap 75-ohm receiver and connect it to the two ends of the pencil lead. Finally glue on a paper scale.
To operate, place a high-resistance lamp in the center receptacle--say, a 15-watt lamp--to prevent heating, and almost any lamp of known wattage in the other receptacle. From the rating of this lamp the resistance may at once be determined by Ohm’s law. Thus, at 110 volts, a 25-watt lamp will have a resistance of 484 ohms; a 40-watt lamp 300 ohms, and a 60-watt lamp, 200 ohms. Connect the unknown resistance, as shown in the drawing, and move the metal tip on the end of the flexible cord back and forth along the pencil lead until a point is reached where no sound is emitted by the receiver. This point will be very well defined, and as the connection is moved away from it in either direction the sound will increase rapidly. Note the reading on the scale, and then if a 40-watt lamp is used in the end receptacle, the unknown resistance will be
300 A = -----. B
The resistance of the center lamp does not enter into the computation, but by changing the lamp in the end receptacle, another set of figures may be obtained, and a means had to secure increased accuracy.
A Simple Motor Controller
The controller described is very similar in operation to the types of controllers used on electric automobiles, and its operation may be easily followed by reference to the diagrammatic representation of its circuits, and those of a two-pole series motor to which it is connected, as shown in Fig. 1. The controller consists of six flat springs, represented as small circles and lettered A, B, C, D, E, and F, which make contact with pieces of narrow sheet brass mounted on a small wood cylinder, so arranged that it may be turned by means of a small handle located on top of the controller case in either direction from a point called neutral, which is marked N. When the cylinder of the controller is in the neutral position, all six contact springs are free from contact with any metal on the cylinder. The contacts around the cylinder in the six different horizontal positions are lettered G, H, J, K, L, and M. There are three different positions of the controller in either direction from the neutral point. Moving the cylinder in one direction will cause the armature of the motor to rotate in a certain direction at three different speeds, while moving the cylinder in a reverse direction will cause the armature to rotate in the opposite direction at three different speeds, depending upon the exact position of the cylinder. These positions are designated by the letters O, P, and Q, for one way, and R, S, and T, for the other.
Supposing the cylinder to be rotated to the position marked O, the circuit may be traced from the positive terminal of the battery U, as follows: To contact spring E, to strip of brass L, to strip of brass M, to contact spring F, through the field windings VV, to contact spring D, to strip of brass K, to strip of brass J, to contact spring C, through resistance W and Y, to armature Z, through armature to the negative terminal of the battery. Moving the cylinder to the position P merely cuts out the resistance W, and to the position Q, cuts out the remaining resistance Y. The direction of the current through the armature and series field, for all positions of the cylinder to the left, is indicated by the full-line arrows. Moving the controller to the positions marked R, S, and T, will result in the same changes in circuit connections, as in the previous case, except the direction of the current in the series field windings will be reversed.
The construction of the controller may be carried out as follows: Obtain a cylindrical piece of wood, 1³⁄₄ in. in diameter and 3¹⁄₈ in. long, preferably hard wood. Turn one end of this cylinder down to a diameter of ¹⁄₂ in., and drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole through its center from end to end. Divide the circumference of the small-diameter portion into eight equal parts and drive a small nail into the cylinder at each division point, the nail being placed in the center of the surface lengthwise and perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. Cut off all the nail heads so that the outer ends of the nails extend even with the surface of the outer, or large-size, cylinder. Divide the large part into eight equal parts so that the division points will be midway between the ends of the nails, and draw lines the full length of the cylinder on these points. Divide the cylinder lengthwise into seven equal parts and draw a line around it at each division point. Cut some ¹⁄₈-in. strips from thin sheet brass and mount them on the cylinder to correspond to those shown in Fig. 1. Any one of the vertical division lines drawn on the cylinder may be taken as the neutral point. The pieces may be mounted by bending the ends over and sharpening them so that they can be driven into the wood. The various strips of brass should be connected electrically, as shown by the heavy lines in Fig. 1, but these connections must all be made so that they will not extend beyond the outer surface of the strips of brass.
A small rectangular frame is made, and the cylinder is mounted in a vertical position in it by means of a rod passing down through a hole in the top of the rectangle, through the hole in the cylinder and partly through the bottom of the rectangle. The upper part of the rod may be bent so as to form a handle. The rod must be fastened to the cylinder in some convenient way.
Make six flat springs similar to the one shown at A, Fig. 2, and mount them on the inside of the rectangle so that they will correspond in their vertical positions to the strips of brass on the cylinder. Six small binding posts mounted on the outside of the box and connected to these springs serve to make the external connections, and they should be marked so that they may be easily identified.
A flat spring, ¹⁄₄ in. wide, is made similar to the one shown at B, Fig. 2. Mount this spring on the inside of the rectangle so it will mesh with the ends of the nails in the small part of the cylinder. The action of this spring is to make the cylinder stop at definite positions. The top of the case should be marked so that the position of the handle will indicate the position of the cylinder. Stops should also be provided so that the cylinder case cannot be turned all the way around.
Miniature Push Buttons
A very neat and workmanlike push button may be made in the following manner: Procure an unused tan-shoe eyelet with an opening about ³⁄₁₆ in. in diameter, and at the proper point drill a hole into the board in which the button is to be set. Force the eyelet in flush, using a little shellac to hold it in tightly. For the button proper, polish off and round one end of a piece of brass rod of a diameter that will move freely up and down in the eyelet. Solder a small piece of sheet brass across the lower end to keep it from coming out, then adjust and fasten on the two contact pieces, all as indicated in the sketch. The larger piece should be quite springy so as to bring the button back each time. The connections may be made by slipping the wires under the heads of the two wood screws that hold the contact pieces in place.
As every experimenter knows, it is almost impossible to drill a hole in the varnished base of an instrument without leaving a raw edge. Under such circumstances, when it is desired to make an opening for conducting cords, and the like, simply drill a hole with an ordinary drill and then set in a small shoe eyelet, which immediately presents a very finished appearance.
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¶Vaseline, with a little powdered gum camphor added and heated over a slow fire, makes an excellent rust preventive for tools.
A Quickly Made Toy Electric Motor
The illustration shows a small electric motor of such simple construction that it can be easily made from odds and ends to be found in any amateur workshop. Cut six strips, ¹⁄₂ in. wide and 3¹⁄₂ in. long, from an old tin can, and bend them together into a U-shape. This forms the magnet A. The outside piece should be a trifle longer than the others so that its ends can be turned over the other ends to keep them all in place. Screw this down on a small wood base. At one side of the wood base, fix an upright, B, and on top, a light wood bracket, C, to take the upper bearing of the motor. The shaft D is simply a wire nail with the head filed off and filed to a point. Drive it through a 1¹⁄₂-in. length of the same kind of material as used for the magnet. This forms the rotating armature E.
Make a slight indentation with a center punch, or strong nail, exactly in the center of the base portion of the magnet to take the lower end of the shaft. For the upper bearing file the end of a brass screw off flat and make a similar indentation with a center punch, or by a few turns of a small drill. This screw should be adjusted in the bracket until the shaft rotates freely with the armature just clearing the tips of the magnet. Wind about 40 turns of fairly thin cotton-covered copper wire--No. 24 or 36 gauge is suitable--around each limb of the magnet, first covering the latter with paper, to prevent the possibility of short-circuiting. The windings should be in opposite directions so that the connecting piece of the wire from one coil to the other passes across diagonally as shown in the illustration.
The brush F is formed by doubling up one of the free ends of the windings after removing the cotton covering and fixing it firmly with two screws to the side of the upright. After attaching, it should be bent until the outer end bears lightly on the shaft. Remove the shaft and at the point where the brush touched, file two flat surfaces on opposite sides of the nail in a direction at right angles to the longitudinal center line of the armature. On replacing the shaft the brush should be adjusted so that it makes contact twice in a revolution and remains clear at the flat portions. Connect up to a battery, one wire to the screw at the top of the motor and the other end to the open end of the windings. Give the armature a start and it will run at a terrific speed.--Contributed by Morris G. Miller, New Rochelle, N. Y.
Gauge for Woodwork
A convenient gauge can be quickly made by using a block of wood and an ordinary nail, or several nails for different widths can be placed in one block. Drive the nails straight into the block until the distance between the head and block is the required distance to be gauged. The rim of the nail head makes the mark as the block is drawn over the wood surface--Contributed by E. P. Haldeman, Balboa, Canal Zone.
Where a high degree of accuracy is neither desired nor necessary, a very satisfactory ammeter may be made at the cost of a few cents, and without using hairsprings, permanent magnets, or other articles usually not at hand.
The actuating device consists of a small coil of coarse, insulated wire, with a bundle of soft-iron wires for a core, which attracts a curved, soft-iron, wedge-shaped armature. The moving system is so balanced that the armature will hang as illustrated when no current is passing. On account of its shape, the higher the armature rises, the more iron it presents to the influence of the magnet, and, on the other hand, the greater will be the effect of gravity. The advantage of this type of control is the elimination of the irregular readings of the scale, due to the law of inverse squares, that usually follow when any method depending upon a variable distance is used. Further, the readings can be had as desired by altering the taper of the armature, its thickness, or its distance from the magnet, and also by adding a small weight of nonmagnetic material at the bottom. As most commercial circuits supply alternating current, the friction of the bearings does not affect the readings, since the alternations set up a decided vibration in the entire moving system, thus eliminating static friction.
In view of the variations above referred to, it will be evident that it is not very essential of what dimensions the apparatus is made. The instrument that I use has a base measuring 2¹⁄₂ in. by 5 in. The coil is built on a tube of glued paper, and contains about 15 ft. of No. 16 gauge wire. The terminals consist of the brass bolts taken from discarded dry cells. A steel sewing needle serves as a shaft, and a piece of wire for the pointer. The various joints are made with soft solder, and suitable stops are provided to keep the armature from shifting laterally. In calibrating, a blank scale should be glued in position and as many 55-watt lamps as possible arranged so that they can be placed in the circuit, one at a time. On a 110-volt line, each lamp added will mark a half-ampere point. If a sufficient number of lamps to carry the scale high enough cannot be secured temporarily, a resistance of some 20 or 30 ohms should be placed in the circuit without any lamps. Note the reading in amperes on the scale thus far constructed, and then begin adding the lamps again, making a mark on the scale as each lamp is added. In this manner a scale may be built up sufficiently accurate for all practical purposes.
If two identical coils are made in place of one, the additional coil can be placed in parallel with the instrument as a shunt, thus doubling its capacity and making it necessary, of course, to multiply all readings by two.
Footstool
The material necessary for the footstool shown in the illustration is as follows:
2 end pieces, 1 by 10 by 15 in.
3 cross braces, 1 by 4 by 12 in.
2 end braces, ⁷⁄₈ by 4 by 8 in.
1 top board, ¹⁄₂ by 10 by 14 in.
1 piece of leather, 11 by 16 in.
Round-head wood screws and nails.
The two end pieces should be marked to a suitable pattern, and may be cut out with a scroll or coping saw, or, if these are not available, with a keyhole saw. The center opening should first be bored at one end and then cut out with the saw. The three long braces should be accurately squared and finished at the ends; the rigidity of the stool depending on this work. The seat consists of a box form with the open side down. The top is a ¹⁄₂-in. board, 8 in. wide by 12 in. long; the sides are formed by two of the long braces, and the ends are the short braces. This box is securely put together with nails, and then screwed in position with round-head wood screws so as to be flush with the top edge of the end pieces. The lower brace is secured in place with screws. In putting on the leather top, ¹⁄₂ in. should be turned under at each end, and 1¹⁄₂ in. brought down on each side. This will provide sufficient looseness to pad the seat properly. Large round-headed brass nails can be used, producing a neat appearance. The stool is then ready for a suitable stain or finish.--Contributed by Stanley B. Furbeck.
Stopper for a Bunghole
While we were filling our barrels at the cider mill it was discovered that one barrel had no stopper. This did not bother the cider-mill man, who took up a sound apple of about the dimensions or diameter of the bunghole and squeezed it in, tight as a cork, then shaved it off flush with the barrel staves. We started Home and rolled it around a great deal with the other barrels, yet it held as tightly as any wood stopper.--Contributed by A. A. Kelly, Frazer, Pa.
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¶An open umbrella placed on the floor upside down makes an excellent receptacle for catching dirt and plastering when installing electric fixtures.
A Woven-Reed Footstool
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]
Reed furniture has become very popular within the last few years, and the newer designs and methods have been so attractive as to place this constructive effort among the handicraft series of modern art. It is possible so to analyze, simplify, and illustrate this work as to make it feasible for amateurs, and at the same time there are possibilities which involve problems that may try the ability of the skilled workman. In other words, there are possibilities of progress in this kind of furniture making. There are places where careful weaving is the principal aim; again particular attention will be given to corners, or, perhaps, a nicety of modeling will be found necessary to bring out the proper curves involved.
Each piece of reed furniture has a framework, usually of dowels, but it may also be made of boards in such models as small tables, dressers, bedsteads, chests, etc. The board construction is more often covered with flat reed. In footstools there are both kinds of framework. The illustrations show the same parts marked with the same letters throughout the series of sketches.
The framework of the stool is shown in Fig. 1, in which the rails and posts are made of dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, and the braces of dowels, ⁵⁄₈ in. in diameter. It will be noticed that the posts extend to the top of the frame for strength in this manner of construction. If the rails rested on top of the post S, the nails would have to be driven into the end grain of the wood, which makes the strength depend entirely on the holding power of the nail in this position, as there is no binding of the upper part to the posts in the weaving. With the post extending to the top, the nail passes through the upper part of the post and into the end grain of the rails, and the rails are bound together horizontally by the weaving.
The material for the frame consists of the following dowel stock: two pieces for rails, ³⁄₄ in. by 14 in. long; two pieces for rails, ³⁄₄ in. by 9 in. long; four posts, ³⁄₄ in. by 7 in. long, and two braces, ⁵⁄₈ in. by 17 in. long. These pieces are shown in Fig. 2. If notches are cut with a small saw, a coping saw preferred, in the ends of each rail and in the braces, as shown in Fig. 3, they will fit to the posts better and make a stronger joint. While different makers use a finishing nail; a barbed or corrugated, nail; or a cemented, or glue-coated, nail, I find the best to be an ordinary 4-penny nail, which answers the purpose well. Do not drive the nail through the posts without first drilling a hole with a ¹⁄₁₆-in. drill. A small hand or breast drill will be needed for this work.
Before nailing the frame together, the holes for the spokes in weaving should be drilled in the rails. The spokes may be No. 4 and the weavers No. 3 reed. The No. 4 reed requires a ¹⁄₈-in. hole. The hole for the top and end side spokes may be combined, as shown in Fig. 4. The dotted lines show the vertical and horizontal diameters, and E the outside and F the inside of the rail, one hole being represented as sawed in two. The spokes for the top extend down and out at the ends, and each may be of one piece, 32 in. long. As there are no spokes at the top extending to the side pieces, short spokes must be inserted at the right time for the side weaving. The location of the holes in the side rails is shown in Fig. 2. The holes in the side rails may be drilled straight in the wood.
The pieces may now be nailed together to form the frame, as shown in Fig. 1. If the top of the side rails A are set about ¹⁄₁₆ in. below the tops of the posts, the weaving will be almost level, as the winding reed is thinner than the round reed. The braces D are halved at the center, on a slant, to bring their upper surfaces on a level when they are in place. The length of 17 in., as given in the material list, is not accurate, as sufficient length is given to allow the ends to be cut, in fitting them in place after the frame is assembled. The posts should stand vertical and square. Try the braces before nailing them in place, to see that they do not draw the frame out of shape.
The first operation in weaving is to cover the tops of the four posts, which is started as shown in Fig. 5. A short piece of winding reed, G, is first tacked in place. A round reed can be split if one is careful, in case winding reed cannot be obtained. Tacks used by shoemakers are just the thing for fastening these weavings in place. After fastening the weaving G in place, another, H, is put on in an opposite direction, whereupon J is fastened on the same as G, and so on, until the post is covered, as shown in Fig. 6. Perhaps a better way to cover the posts would be to tack all eight pieces on the post part C, and then weave them down together. It may not be necessary to tack them all on the rails.
After the corners are all covered, the end rails B are wound with the winding reed, the start being shown in Fig. 7, where the frame is shown in an inverted position. The reed is tacked, at K, to the side rail, and whenever the winding comes to a hole, a pencil mark is made to locate the hole later. This mark is shown at L. When the two end rails are wound, push a bodkin, or other steel point, in between the windings where the marks are located, to make way for the insertion of the spokes. It may appear to an observer that the spokes could be put in before the winding, but the winding cannot be properly done after the spokes have been inserted, as the windings would separate too much around them. The hole must be opened up through to the opposite side of the rail. Single spokes go through the rail, and they are only put through one end rail at first, as the weaving is much easier with one end of the spokes free, but, of course, they must be inserted in the other end before the weaving gets within 2 or 3 in. of that end. An extra spoke is inserted beside each spoke, as the weaving proceeds and after a strip has been woven ³⁄₄ in. wide. These short spokes are cut just long enough to fit in between the end rails. The weaving is done with a single weaver, and it is passed over and under double spokes as if they were one. When the weaver comes to the side rail, it is wound twice around the rail, to take up the space for the two strands across. If the weaver does not go twice around the side rails each time, either the weaving will take a curve or the side winding will be loose. The starting of the weaving is shown in Fig. 8, where the extra spokes are inserted along the side of each spoke that runs through the end rails.
After the spokes have been inserted in the opposite end rail and the weaving in the top completed, the braces and posts should be wound. Where the braces D connect to the posts C, three strips of the winding reed are passed around the post and tacked on both sides of the braces, as shown at M, Fig. 9. Where the braces cross, the winding passes around both pieces for a short distance, as shown at N. It is quite appropriate to use the brass caps O on this model, but on many stools their use has been discontinued and the winding continues down to within ¹⁄₈ in. of the bottom of the post. In case the brass cap cannot be obtained, the winding may be used also on this model.
The side weaving is called the apron, and in this case the pairing weave is used. The short spokes will have to be inserted in the under side of the side rails, and the extra spokes are added after the weaving is started and a small strip woven. The pairing weave is shown in Figs. 10, 11, and 12. The two weavers are represented by the letters P and Q. The weaver P passes back of spoke T and out between T and U. The weaver Q is then used in the same manner, and so on, around the stool. When the post is approached the weaver that comes out between the last spoke and the post is passed around the post and in behind the next spoke on the other side. It will be seen in the pairing weave that the weaver behind is always thrown over the other weaver. This gives the appearance of a rope twist to the weaving, and also cinches it to the spokes and prevents slipping. Always pass the one weaver around the post twice to take up the space for the one that cuts across the corner. The weaving of the sides or apron is done with the object turned upside down, where it is in a good position for finishing off, which is sometimes called breaking down.
If the weaving has been carried far enough, the extra spokes are cut off even with the weaving, and the breaking down may be done as follows: The spoke R, Fig. 13, is shown turned down back of the spoke S, and S back of T and out. The spoke R, as shown in Fig. 14, is back of S, in front of T, back of U, and out between U and V, but as R is brought out, the spoke T is brought down back and parallel with R. Likewise the spoke S passes back of V, and U is brought down with it. The spoke T is brought back of W and V is brought down back of it. The short end of R is inserted under the roll, between the roll and the weaving, and is left extending on the inside. If it is too long, it can be cut off close to the inside of the weaving. In Fig. 15, all the short ends are shown brought through to the back as far as the weaving is illustrated. At the corners, the posts are used as spokes. To finish the roll, the spokes will have to be inserted through the roll, to correspond with the rest of it; hence, the beginning of the roll should be left loose, as in Fig. 13.
In weaving, the weavers should be kept wet, but not the spokes. Do not put the reed in water and leave it for any length of time, as it will become discolored. About 15 minutes will be sufficient to make the reed pliable, then it is best to have a sponge and bucket of water at hand, to dampen long weavers frequently by drawing the reed across the wet sponge. Besides being more workable, the wet reed, held in place until dry, stays curved in the form woven much better. Some workmen leave the reed in water for a long time and depend on bleaching to whiten it, but so much of the bleached work looks like a poor job of painting that it is much better to keep it white from the start. In case bleaching is found necessary, a little chloride of lime in water makes a good bleacher. Avoid making the solution too strong. It should be put on with a brush, so as to get it into the interstices of the weaving, whereupon the work is placed in the sunshine to dry.
Any kind of reed used will have some of the small hairlike fibers sticking out after the weaving is complete, and this should be singed off with a gas flame. A blowtorch is good for this purpose. Be careful not to scorch the weaving.
A Homemade Ellipsograph
BY J. A. SHELLY
The instrument illustrated was designed to take the place of the two nails and a piece of string for drawing ellipses of different sizes. It is made of hard wood, preferably maple or beech, and consists of a bar with one fixed and one sliding head, the latter having a wedge clamp to hold it at any point desired on the bar.
In the ends of the heads are driven two coarse needles that have been broken off about ⁵⁄₈ in. from the eye end. These ends should be placed ¹⁄₈ in. from the inside of each head and the same distance from the bottom, and driven in until the eyes are each ¹⁄₈ in. from the surface. A piece of linen thread is run through the eye of the needle that is in the end of the sliding head and knotted to prevent its pulling out, and the free end is run through the needle eye on the fixed head. The thumb tack in the fixed head is to secure the free end of the thread. The tack is driven in at an angle so that one edge sticks up enough to allow the thread to be pulled under it.
To operate the ellipsograph lay out the length of the major axis on a center line, then bisect the distance between these points and erect a perpendicular. On this line lay off half the minor axis, measuring from the center line; then from this point locate the foci by setting the dividers to half the major axis and scribing arcs of circles to cut the center line. Set the heads of the instrument so that the projecting needle ends will be the same distance apart as the foci, and clamp the sliding head with the wedge. Set the instrument so that the needle eyes will be exactly over the points where the foci are on the center line. A pencil, with a little groove filed ¹⁄₈ in. from the point, for the thread to run in, is set to half the minor axis and the thread is pulled taut and secured by the thumb tack. The pencil should be held perfectly perpendicular while scribing the line. The instrument must be reversed to draw the other half of the ellipse.
To draw an ellipse that will be an exact projection of a circle at any given angle it is necessary to determine the length of the major axis. This may be done by laying out the circle, either full size or to scale, and projecting two parallel lines equal to the diameter of the circle, or its scale, and connecting these lines with a line drawn to the required angle. The length of this line is the major axis.
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¶Never run a glass cutter over the same line twice, as this will ruin the cutter. Alcohol rubbed along the line to be cut aids in the process.
Ship’s-Wheel Device for a Radiator Valve
Leaving one’s comfortable bed to open the valve of a radiator in a cold room is an unpleasant task. The device shown in the sketch obviates the necessity for leaving the bed, yet gives as positive control over the valve as if the hand were on the valve wheel.
The construction of the pulley attached to the top of the valve wheel is shown in the small sketch at the right. It is built up of a center section of wood and flanges of sheet metal, fastened with screws. The pulleys attached to the wall are built in the same way, but are smaller. Any size that is convenient may be used for the larger as well as the smaller pulleys, but the larger pulley must be small enough so that it will not rub against the end of the radiator.
The cord is wound around the pulley at the valve handle, several times, like the steering cord on a motorboat. This gives a positive grip on the pulley. The cord may be conducted directly from the large pulley to the nearer small pulley, the other small one being omitted.
To operate the device draw on the proper cord to open and close the valve. It would be well to mark the cords with tabs so that they may be readily distinguished.--Contributed by P. D. Norton, Chicago, Ill.
Lighted Whirling Fan Used as Radiator Ornament
An ornament for the automobile-radiator cap that attracted a great deal of attention at night was made by attaching two incandescent lamps to the blades of a small propeller, which is whirled around by the wind. By using the shaft on which the wheels of a roller skate revolve, ball bearings were provided. One end of this shaft is held rigid in a block of wood.
The wires which lead from the propeller are run under the hood, and attached to the socket for the trouble lamp. They are taped to the rod that braces the radiator, to avoid a short circuit, and then out from under the hood at the radiator cap, and connected to the brushes A and B. The incandescent electric-light bulbs are attached to the ends of the propeller blades and connected in series. The wire is run from one side of the socket E to the collar C, and soldered to the latter. The wire from the other side of the socket is connected to the other lamp F. The other wire from this lamp socket at F is soldered to the other collar D. The brushes are made by bending a strip of copper into the shape shown in the detail, and fastening it to the wooden block by means of screw binding posts, soldered to the strips.--F. Lloyd Adams, Jersey City, N. J.
A Fifty-Cent Electric Stove
Few persons realize what an intense heat may be developed when the globe of an ordinary incandescent lamp is tightly inclosed, largely eliminating the loss of heat. When the lamp is inclosed, the temperature will increase until the rate of radiation is equal to that at which the heat is generated. A good reflector is a poor radiator, hence, when the metal wall surrounding the lamp is bright and shiny, both inside and out, the heat is reflected inward.
To make a small stove that will keep liquids warm, melt paraffin, dissolve glue, etc., procure an ordinary 16-cp. carbon lamp, a porcelain receptacle, and a bright, clean tin can, about 4 in. in diameter and 7 in. long. Thoroughly blacken the bottom on the inside, and then solder on four small brackets, cut from sheet brass or copper, so that the can may be held down firmly, when inverted on the base. The latter should preferably be made of hard wood, with the upper edges beveled, as shown. Next bore the hole for the wire or flexible cord. Fasten down the porcelain receptacle, connect the wiring, screw in the globe, and screw down the tin can; the stove is then ready for operation.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]
Footstools of reed are preferable, in the home, to those made of other materials, because of their light weight, rounded edges, and comfortable, yielding tops. Reed, rattan, and similar material, used in their construction, withstand hard wear, and will not easily mar floors or furniture, a feature not to be overlooked, especially since the footstool is a favorite seat or play table of children. Several types of stools and foot rests are shown in the illustration. A stool having a framework of dowels, covered with reed, and utilizing the frame to produce a paneled effect, is shown in Fig. 3. The upper dowel of the framework is covered and woven over with the top, in the somewhat lighter stool shown in Fig. 8; the legs are braced at the ends with reed, arched and covered with winding reed. The stool shown in Fig. 11 is designed with rounded lines, the bracing dowels being set low, and a panel of openwork woven into the sides. Figure 15 shows a foot rest, the framework of which is steamed and bent, and the top slanted to provide a more comfortable rest for the feet. It is strongly braced, paneled on the sides with winding reed, and ornamented with openwork scrolls. The details of the construction of the frames and the method of weaving the reed are shown in the other sketches.
Dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, are used for the main framework of all of the stools shown. The dimensions of the various stools may be made to suit individual taste, those suggested in each instance having been found satisfactory. A good size for the stool shown in Fig. 3 is: height, 9 in.; width, 11 in.; length, 15 in. The lower of the horizontal dowels should be set at least one-third the height of the leg from the top. The braces are notched at their ends to fit the curve of the legs, and finishing nails are driven into them through the legs. The corner joints are further reinforced by a binding of reed, placed over them. The holes for the spokes are bored through the braces before the construction is nailed together. They should be bored about 1¹⁄₄ in. apart, spaced uniformly, according to the length and width of the stool. The tops of the legs should project about ¹⁄₁₆ in. above the upper braces, so as to produce a level surface when the winding reed is applied.
The upper end of the legs must first be covered with winding reed, as shown in Fig. 2. Tack a strip of the reed on; then add successive pieces, as shown, until the end is covered. The joint of the leg and the lower brace must be reinforced, as shown in Fig. 2, by tacking winding reed over it horizontally. The braces must then be wound with winding reed, the spokes being inserted later. In winding the reed on the braces, tack one end of it to the brace at the left of a leg; then begin the winding on the brace to the right of the leg, and as each hole is encountered mark with pencil on the reed, so that if any of the holes are covered they may be found easily, when inserting the spokes. The marks should be made on the lower side.
The spokes extend from the lower edge of the bottom rail on one side to the lower edge of the corresponding rail or brace on the opposite side. Short spokes are fitted between the upper and lower rails at the ends of the stool. The top is woven complete before the sides are woven, the pairing weave being used. In this method two strands of reed are handled together, the first passing behind one spoke, and being below the second strand, and then passing in front of the next spoke, and being above the second strand, etc. This weave is shown in detail in Fig. 9, illustrating an article on “Taborets and Small Tables for the Summer Veranda,” page 155, July, 1916. The weaving of the top includes the covering of the upper rails at the ends of the stool, which are wound in as spokes, the reed passing around them and being directed back in the opposite direction.
The weaving for the sides is carried around the stool continuously, passing around the legs. One of the strands in the pairing weave passes behind the leg, and the other must be wound around it an extra turn, to cover up the space otherwise exposed. The reed is wound around the legs to the lower end, the strand being tacked at the inner side of the leg.
The framework for the second type of stool is shown in Fig. 6. The two side rails are fixed into place by the same method used in making the first stool, and the frame is braced on the ends by sections of No. 12 or No. 14 reed. These are fitted into place and covered in the winding. The braces should be fitted to the curve of the leg, and nailed into place with small finishing nails. The ends where the braces join the legs and rails should be whittled down to a long, thin wedge, so that they may be bound in securely by the reed that is wound around the legs, as shown in Fig. 4.
The spokes in this model, as shown in Fig. 6, do not pass through the upper rails, but extend from one lower rail over the upper rails and to the lower rail on the opposite side. This makes it necessary that the upper rails be set slightly below and in from the top and outer edges of the legs. The lower rails should then be set in so as to be uniform with the upper ones.
The lower rails and the end braces are wound by the method used for the rails in the first stool. The tops of the legs are finished differently, however, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. The weaving is begun at the lower rail, and proceeds until the side panel is filled to the under edge of the upper rail. The weavers cannot then be returned at the corner, and are cut off to extend 2 in. beyond the leg. Their ends are thinned out, and then brought around the corner against the upper rail on the end, as shown in Fig. 5. Alternately they are turned down on the leg and against the end rail, producing a covering for the corner. The strands of the top are woven over the thinned-out ends, and bound over the joint of the braces with the upper rail. The corners may be beaten gently with a block of wood to smooth them, and to bring the weavers firmly together. The weavers pass twice around the legs, as each strand is brought to the leg, as shown in Figs. 5 and 7. It will be found convenient to place the spokes in only one lower rail, as in Fig. 6, while weaving the first side panel, and the top. As the work proceeds the spokes are bound down to the upper end rails, and when the middle of the second side panel is reached, they are trimmed off and fitted into their holes, on that side.
The third stool differs fundamentally from the preceding ones in that the framework is curved at the upper ends, and the weaving of the top is carried down over the ends. The framework is shown in detail, in Fig. 9. Ash dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, are used for the framework, and the rails are notched into the main sections, and nailed, as were those in the preceding stools. The length of the curved dowels must be determined carefully, and it is desirable to have the stock longer than is necessary for the finished pieces, so that inaccuracies in bending may be allowed for properly. The distance between the legs should be such that a space of ¹⁄₂ in. is provided between the legs and the first hole for the side spokes, and the intervening spokes should be placed 1 in. apart. A satisfactory size is to make the stool 6 in. high, the end rails 8 in., and the side rails 13 inches.
The method of bending the dowels is shown in Figs. 12 and 13. They must be soaked in hot water or steamed, and clamped around the form as indicated, being left to dry. A pipe fitted over the ends of the dowels, to give leverage, will aid in bending them. The form is made by fitting pegs, suitably spaced, into a board, ⁷⁄₈ in. or more in thickness. The curved pieces may be braced temporarily, as shown, and removed from the form when partly dried, so that it can be used quickly for the second piece. The pegs must be set close enough together so that the curve at the upper ends of the legs will not be too large, making the legs appear short. Care must be taken in bending this short curve, as the dowels are likely to break if the curve is quite abrupt. By setting the pegs solidly and making them long enough, two pieces of dowel rod may be curved in the form at the same time, and permitted to dry. A convenient tray of galvanized iron, for use in heating water for the moistening of the dowels, is shown in Fig. 10. It is 28 in. long, but may be made shorter if the points at which curves are to be made are moistened separately. A wash boiler, or any other suitable vessel, may be used for heating the water and dipping the dowels into it. After being shaped, the pieces are trimmed off to the proper height on the leg portions. Holes for the spokes are then bored through the lower and side rails, and they are notched and nailed to the legs.
The cross rails of the framework, shown in Fig. 9, are fixed into place by the method used in the previous models. The lower rails should be set about 2 in. from the floor, and are bored for double spokes. The rails are set with their outer edges ¹⁄₈ in. in from the edges of the legs, so that the weaving will be flush with the surface of the legs, rather than project slightly beyond it. The spokes for the ends and seat, or top, pass from one lower rail on one end to the corresponding rail on the other end, and are supported on the upper end rails. There are no corners to be fitted with the winding reed in this model, as the windings continue over the curves at the ends and down over the latter, by the same method of weaving as used in the top. The weaving is begun at the lower rails, and passes completely around the sides and ends of the stool, until about 1¹⁄₂ in. has been covered, up from the lower rails. The ends only are then covered, the strands of reed passing around the curved portion of the upper rails, and around the dowels forming the support for the top, in weaving back and forth.
The ornamental weaving at the sides of the stool is produced by spreading out the double spokes and conducting them to the proper holes in the upper rails. Several types of design may be made by crossing the spokes in various ways before setting them into the holes in the rails. The short spokes in the sides are permitted to remain with their upper ends free and longer than necessary while the 1¹⁄₂-in. lower section is woven. They must be cut carefully to the size necessary to form the desired design, and the ends glued into the holes.
The stool shown in Fig. 15 is designed as a foot rest, with a slanting top. It is similar in general construction to that shown in Figs. 9 and 11, the framework being made of dowels, bent to the shape indicated by means of a form. The top and ends are woven in the manner described for the previous model. A point of difference to be noted is the bracing by means of a woven panel below the side rails, as shown in Fig. 15. This feature may be carried around the ends also, or the ends may be braced to the lower side panel by the method of bracing shown in Fig. 4. The rails around the stool are all on the same level. The double spokes for the top are fixed into the end rails, the spokes for the side panels into the side rails, and the smaller dowel placed at the lower edge of the side panels, as a support for the twisted weaving shown. The weaving of the top and the panels is by the method used in the previous model. The scrolls fitted into the open portions of the sides are tacked into place, and the strands of weaving reed carried over them, where the curves touch the upper and lower rails. A variety of designs may be worked out for the openwork. The scrolls are made of No. 6 or No. 8 reed, and should be formed on a base, as in Fig. 12, brads being used to hold them in shape until dry.
Another type of foot rest with a slanting top is shown in Fig. 14. The framework is built up of dowels, straight sections only being used. The joints are fastened by the method used in the first and second models described. The method of covering the frame is essentially the same as for the stool shown in Fig. 15, or an adaptation of that used in Fig. 11 may also be applied. Where facilities for steaming or moistening the dowels are not to be had conveniently, this type of construction will be found satisfactory, the designs being limited to straight lines, however. The method of covering the framework used in Fig. 3 is also available for the framework shown in Fig. 4, and the corners may be finished as shown in Fig. 2. Numerous variations and combinations of the types shown may be worked out readily after one has become reasonably familiar with the possibilities of woven-reed construction.
Squirrel-Skin Bill Fold
As a souvenir of the “days afield” my brother fashioned a quaint bill fold out of a squirrel skin, which, by the way, is a skin of remarkable toughness, After tanning the skin and removing the hair, it was cut as shown, the skin of the forelegs being used as fold-overs. The piece of tape took the place of the tail. The shot holes through the skin added the requisite touch of realism, recalling a day with the gun.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Waterproof Dry-Battery Case
Dry batteries that are sealed in a tight, waterproof case will last much longer than those exposed to dampness, especially in marine practice. A box, like that shown in the sketch, will afford excellent protection and add materially to the life and efficiency of batteries. It is constructed of ¹⁄₂-in. cypress, or oak, of a length and width depending upon the capacity in number of cells desired. The inside dimensions should be such that the cells are firmly fitted. It should be put together with screws and marine, or any other waterproof, glue. The batteries should be placed in the case and connected. Molten paraffin wax should then be poured over and under the cells. Do not get the wax too hot, but heated only to the melting point. Binding posts and a single-blade switch should be placed on the case and connected up. Screw on the cover, after painting the top edges with the glue. Give the case a good coat of varnish and paint, and fit with a carrying handle. This makes a neat and handy battery outfit that is thoroughly waterproof. The case can be refilled by cutting out the wax and removing the old cells.--B. F. Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.
Making Small Ratchet Wheels in a Lathe
Accurately formed ratchet wheels of small size may be made without special appliances in a lathe. A triangular file and a simple gauge, made of a piece of hardened steel, are the only tools required, as shown in the illustration.
The lathe is prepared as an index for the ratchet wheels by dividing the face of one of the steps, preferably the largest of the cone pulley. A center punch may be used in marking the graduations slightly, and another point should be marked in the headstock base, from which dividers are used to gauge the movement of the spindle. The dividers should be set, when the work is begun so that one point rests in the punch mark on the headstock and the other in one of the marks on the pulley. The bearings should be tightened so that the work will not shift easily. The blank to be cut is supported on an arbor provided with a shoulder, and is held in place by a small machine screw threaded into the end of the arbor.
The teeth are cut by filing them with the gauge as a guide. If the spindle is turned carefully so that the dividers register the graduations precisely, the ratchet wheel will be cut accurately. By first roughing out the teeth and then refiling them with a fine file, a more smoothly finished surface will result. Other forms of teeth might also be made if a properly shaped gauge is provided.--Charles F. Merrill, Hopedale, Mass.
Front-Opening Hatbox
Lifting a hatbox down from a high shelf, only to find that the desired hat is not among the several hats contained therein, is annoying. If the hat shelves of the clothes closet are provided with boxes that open on the front, the hats may be removed easily without taking the boxes from the shelves. Rectangular boxes are used for making the front-opening containers by cutting the side corners of the front, and using the front lower edge as a hinge. The top, or cover, is placed over the box, holding the hinged front in place when closed. These boxes have been found to afford ample protection and are convenient.--D. J. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.
Plaster of Paris to Set Screws into Wall
Screws holding light fittings in a bathroom were found to be driven into the plaster between laths and became loosened. No strain was placed upon them, and as it was desired to replace the screws in the same holes, the following method was employed: A cotton string was wrapped around the threads of the screw, and the screw then dipped into plaster of Paris until sufficient of this adhered to it to fill the hole in the wall and to permit some of it to be forced behind the plaster. When the plugs thus formed were dry, they resisted a considerable pressure, by reason of the enlarged portions behind the plaster.--H. A. Trester, Milwaukee, Wis.
Case for Fishhooks Made of a Tin Can
After trying several devices for keeping my fishhooks, I hit upon my present method, which has been found satisfactory. The materials used are: a ¹⁄₂-lb. baking-powder tin; two disks, 2 in. in diameter and ¹⁄₄ in. thick, sawed from a convenient limb; a twig, 4 in. long, somewhat smaller than a lead pencil, made smooth and straight; enough cork stoppers, about ³⁄₄ in. in diameter at the small end, to make 3¹⁄₂ in. in length, and a few drops of cold glue.
Drill a hole lengthwise through the through the stoppers and through the center of each disk, just large enough to allow the twig to pass through closely. Cut from the small ends of two of the stoppers a piece, ¹⁄₄ in. long, for pieces A and B. Pass the twig through the long stoppers and the disks; the pieces A and B should then be glued to the ends of the twigs projecting beyond the disks, to fasten the hook holder together, and to be used for handles by which it may be lifted from the box. If the hooks are dry when they are stuck into the corks which form the center, they will keep in good condition indefinitely, and their points will never be dulled by coming in contact with the tin sides of the box or with each other.--C. A. King, East Kingston, N. H.
Improvement on Pocket Flash Lamps
It is often desirable to concentrate the rays from a pocket flash lamp on a limited area rather than spreading them, as is the case with many lamps of this type. The addition of a hood, which may be slipped over the lens, as shown in the illustration, concentrates the light in this manner. A strip of sheet brass, about ¹⁄₃₂ in. thick, 4 in. long, and ³⁄₄ in. wide, was drilled at the center, forming an opening of the same diameter as the lens. A brass tube was soldered to fit over the hole. The ends of the strip were bent back at right angles, to hold the device firmly against the sides of the flash lamp. The lamp is used in the ordinary fashion, and the clip may be removed quickly when not needed. It may be plated or finished to suit the metal parts of the lamp.--Ralph W. Tillotson, Erie, Pa.
Testing Dry Cells with Light Bulb
Tests of batteries for telephones, doorbells, and similar appliances, may be made by the use of a lamp from a pocket flash light. Remove the reflector and lamp and connect them with the poles of each cell to be tested, as shown in the sketch. The glow of the lamp is proportional to the amount of life in the cell. Very often but one dead cell will be found to cause trouble. By testing carefully the good cells may be retained and new ones substituted for those worn out.
Loading Box to Dispense with Dark Room
When a daylight developing tank is used, a dark room is needed only for loading the plate holders and for transferring exposed plates to the tank. These operations may be performed satisfactorily in darkness, using a large box with holes made in the side to admit the hands, as shown in the sketch. The box may be made of light wood or stout cardboard. The sleeves fitted to the openings are provided with elastic bands to insure that no light creeps in at the edges. The holders, plates, and sponge should be arranged conveniently in the box before beginning operations.
The box must be made light-proof by lining it with black cloth if necessary. If any difficulty is experienced in identifying the film side of the plates they may be marked with minute tabs at the corner on the film side, or identified by moistening the finger tip on the sponge and testing for a slight stickiness of the film side at the extreme corner. A red window might be fitted into the box, but the device has been found satisfactory without it.--Contributed by H. J. Gray, Lewes, Sussex, England.
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¶New brooms should be soaked in strong, hot salt water. This toughens the bristles and makes them last much longer.
Rubber Bands Made from Old Inner Tubes
Old inner tubes of bicycles, or other vehicles, may be cut into rubber bands of various widths which will be found to give good service. The tubes should be laid flat on a hard piece of board, or a piece of sheet zinc, and the bands cut off one at a time with a sharp knife held against a straightedge. In cutting them on wood, it is best to use a close-grained stock and to cut across the grain of the wood.
Sailors’ Sweetheart Picture Frame
The boys on United States battleships are fond of making trinkets and souvenirs to be sent home, and the sailors’ sweetheart picture frame shown in the sketch is a favorite. Speaking from experience, I know that many “landlubbers” will be interested in this novelty, although coming from a man-of-war makes it more interesting. I have been there and, therefore, I know. The place of honor in the center is of course reserved for the lady. The smaller picture openings may be filled with penny pictures of father and mother, or other relatives.--Contributed by Charles Rorer, Bridgeport, Connecticut.
[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]
Utility and ready portability are well recognized features of woven-reed furniture, but the qualities which make it especially attractive for summer use in the open air, or on the veranda, are its inviting comfort and graceful lines. While furniture of this type arranged in suites makes a particularly harmonious showing, individual pieces may be used in combination with other furniture, lending a touch of variety. Small tables or taborets, of light weight and simple design, may be made by the novice, and may be adapted to a variety of uses. Footstools, jardinière stands, sewing tables, yard tables, and smoking stands are some of the possibilities. Three representative types are shown in Figs. 1 to 3, and the general method of construction as well as the details of the weaving are also illustrated.
A serviceable taboret or stand is illustrated in Fig. 1. It is 18 in. high, and 17 in. in diameter on the top. The sides are 9 in. wide at the top and 14 in. at the bottom.
The framework for the top of the stand consists of a disk of wood, 16 in. in diameter, with a similar one, 14 in. in diameter, directly underneath, the edge being set under 1 in. all around. Four legs of 1-in. doweling support it, and two cross braces of doweling are placed between diagonally opposite corner posts, behind the woven portions of the side. The grain of the wood in the upper disk should run at right angles to that of the lower, to prevent warping, and the disks should be fastened together with nails or screws. Avoid putting them into the lower disk, where the legs are to be fixed.
To locate the position for the legs, draw a diameter on the under side of the top, as at A, Fig. 4, and 4 in. on either side of it draw parallel lines B and C. Draw another diameter, D, at right angles to A, and draw the parallel lines E and F 4 in. from the diameter D. Where the four outside lines intersect will be the centers of the holes for the legs. These holes are not bored perpendicularly, but are slanted to conform to the slant of the leg. A template should be used in guiding the bit, as shown at G, Fig. 4. It may be constructed of wood, 3 in. wide and 5 in. long, Fig. 5. Place the gauge just outside the edge of the hole to be bored. Nail it to the board lightly on the diagonal, as shown, and guide the bit against it.
Before the legs are fixed into place finally, the holes for the spokes of the side should be bored. The parallel lines of Fig. 4 now serve another purpose, that of giving the location of the spokes. Place one spoke ¹⁄₂ in. from each leg, and the others 1 in. apart. The legs are utilized as spokes in the weaving. The spokes should be double, and the extra spokes may be inserted beside the original ones, after the weaving has progressed a few rounds. Number 5 reed should be used for the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers, which are woven back and forth around the spokes.
Drive the legs into their sockets, applying glue, and pin them with nails, as at H, Fig. 4. Tack strips on the bottoms of two pairs of legs and then fasten two strips to brace them, as shown in Fig. 6. The strips should be put on and the distance between the legs spaced before the glue sets.
It is best to weave the sides before beginning the top, so as to prevent rubbing the woven top while weaving the sides, with the stand inverted. The side spokes should be 2 ft. long and should be set into the top 1 in., with glue. Turn the top of the stand down on a table, and begin the weaving at the under side of the top. Single weaving is used for the sides, every other round passing twice around the legs.
There being four sides in the construction, there will be an even number of spokes, even though there should be an odd number to each side. The weaving would thus repeat itself, in going behind and before the same spoke each time. This is not desirable in this construction, and a change should be made each round. To do this, go over two spokes, instead of one, at the finish of a round. Such a “skip” is an Indian method, and forms a design that may be carried in slanting lines back and forth down the side of the stand. It is best to confine these “skips” to one side. Another way to overcome the repeat, as the weaving in and out around the same spokes in two successive layers is called, is to insert an extra spoke on one side, thus making an odd number of spokes around the stand. It is necessary then to conform the design of the open work for this side to the number of spokes. The design for the open work shown in Fig. 2 will be used for the stand illustrated in Fig. 1, and to be described in detail. The first of the two methods of overcoming the “repeat” will be used.
Insert the extra reed for doubling the spokes, after a few rounds have been woven adjoining the top. The method of weaving from the corner post and the making of the open design are shown in Figs. 7 and 8. The method of “pairing” for winding the reed in and out of the spokes, is shown in Figs. 9 and 10. The rear weaver of the pair of strands is thrown over the forward weaver, back of the next spoke and out. The fore weaver then becomes the rear one, and is thrown in like manner. This process is repeated in order to make the complete rounds. Figure 9 shows the weaving from the side, and Fig. 10 is a view looking down on top of the spokes and the edge of the weaving, shown in section. Pairing gives a continuous rope twist to the two weavers, and an even or odd number of spokes is equally suitable.
For the open designs of Fig. 2, one or more of which may be placed in the side of the stand, the center spokes are left free, as shown in Fig. 7. Before turning the first weaver back for the open work, as at M, start a short weaver N about two spokes back from the opening, and pair it with the regular weaver across the opening, and two spokes beyond. In turning back on the spokes, the single weaver goes twice around the spokes, as shown by the intermediate layers O. This is a short bend and the weavers must be very soft. Use short ones and wet them frequently with a sponge. A sectional view of the weaving at the opening is shown in Fig. 8, as it joins with the weaving around the corner posts. At K, the weaver turns back on a double thickness of reed, and at L, a short spoke is set back of the other two, and the weaver is wound around the three, thus lessening the abruptness of the winding. The latter method is the better. At the horizontal center of the opening, two rounds continue across the opening and around the stand. Pair a short piece of reed across at the finish of the openings, as was done at the lower end at N, Fig. 7.
After weaving to within 5 in. of the bottom of the legs, cut off the extra member of the double spokes, and soak the ends of the remaining spokes in water. Braid them into the border finish, as shown in Fig. 1. The corner posts serve as spoke spaces, and the spokes nearest them are wound around the bottom ends of the legs. Short spokes may be inserted beside the posts and wound around them if the ends of the spokes are not long enough for this purpose.
The top may be made next. Holes are bored horizontally into the edge of the under disk, as shown in Figs. 4 and 11. In Fig. 12 the holes are shown bored into the edge on an angle. This method gives a thicker rolled edge to the top, although both methods are satisfactory. These holes must be bored before the work on the top is begun. There are two ways of beginning the weaving for the top. The radial spokes may cross each other in groups of four, the upper and lower courses being bound together with winding reed, as shown in Fig. 13, or a small maple disk may be used as a center from which the spokes radiate, as shown in Figs. 14 and 20. The center-disk method is not difficult, and is used extensively. The other type is novel, and also quite feasible.
The spokes for the method shown in Fig. 13 are bound together in the following manner: Place two spokes at right angles to each other and wind them with winding reed, the end of the latter beginning between the two spokes, as shown at P, Fig. 15. The perpendicular spoke is uppermost. Add a second perpendicular spoke and bind it into place, as at Q. Continue this process until four perpendicular spokes have been bound in as at R. Place a second horizontal reed into position and go over each vertical spoke with a separate winding, as in the first course. Continue until four horizontal spokes are bound in, and the end of the winding reed is looped around the last, as shown at S. The spokes should be of No. 5 reed, and 24 in. long.
Four groups of four spokes each will result by following out the process described. Separate the spokes by drawing the outer ones into the corner spaces. They should have the appearance of spokes in a wheel, as in Fig. 16. Use two weavers of No. 4 reed, in the pairing weave, as shown in Fig. 16, and in detail in Figs. 9 and 10. Continue the pairing weave until a center, 8 in. in diameter, is woven. Crowd up the weaving closely, for the appearance of the top will depend much on the first few rounds. Hold the center with the left hand, and manipulate the weavers until they are well seated in their proper places.
When a few rounds have been woven, nail the center securely to its place on the middle of the top. This will leave both hands free for the weaving. After a disk, 8 in. in diameter, has been woven, begin the triple weave illustrated in Figs. 17 and 18. As the triple weave is begun, add another spoke, 8 in. long, between each pair, all around the top, making 16 new and 16 original spokes. When two or three rounds are woven, the new spokes will become secure. Continue the triple weave to the edge of the top. Measure and cut the end of the spokes to uniform length. Curve the ends over the edge to see how much will be needed before cutting, allowing about ¹⁄₂ in. for insertion into the holes in the edge.
Wet the ends of the spokes with water until they are pliable enough for the curve. Bending and tying them down while wet and permitting them to dry in this position, as shown in Fig. 19, is desirable also. Weave down the curve of the roll and insert the ends of the spokes in their respective holes with glue. Then with the single, plain weave on the under side of the roll, weave well up to the ends of the spokes.
For the disk-center method of construction, as shown in Figs. 14 and 20, use ¹⁄₂-in. maple, and cut it 5 in. in diameter for the centerpiece. To locate holes on the edge of the disk draw a line ³⁄₁₆ in. from the upper edge and mark off spaces 1 in. apart, except four, which are made ¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. apart, to make a convenient division, practically uniform. Bore the holes ³⁄₄ in. deep. Number 5 reed is used for the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers. The disk should be toenailed around its edge with brads, fixing it firmly to the top before the spokes are inserted. Proceed with the pairing weave, as in the other method described, until 2 in. of the spokes is covered; then change to the triple weave and add additional spokes. Proceed as with the other type from this point on.
The taboret is braced by two 1-in. dowel rods, placed 2 in. above the bottom roll of the sides and extending from one corner to the other, diagonally. Their crossing at the center may be made into a halved joint, by cutting away one-half of each rod on the adjacent edges. The ends are fitted closely into the corners, and are nailed to the legs.
A taller stand or small table, the side weaving of which has been described as applied to the taboret shown in Fig. 1, is illustrated in Fig. 2. The construction in general is similar. A lighter roll is used for the top, and the bottom ends of the legs are curved outward slightly. The legs are curved by steaming the ends of the corner posts, clamping them into position, and permitting them to dry.
The footstool, shown in Fig. 3, may be made as a miniature stand, with vertical legs, and the spokes set in a circle under the top board. The spokes and weavers will carry the form, if well woven. The stool may also be braced, to withstand hard usage. It should be about 12 in. in diameter at the top, 10 in. in diameter for the body, and 6 in. in height.
The method of forming the opening shown in the side of the taboret in Fig. 1, and the weaving of the construction, will be readily understood from the method described. The principles and methods presented may be applied readily to other construction of the same general type. The physical limitations of reed, as a constructive material, and the necessity for a substantial framework must always be considered in such adaptations in order to obtain satisfactory results.
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¶One ounce of nitrate of iron added to 8 oz. of hyposulphite of soda in a gallon of water and applied hot, produces a green finish on brass.
Coaster with Safety Brake
Coasting on homemade devices is much enjoyed by children, but often accompanied with dangers because of difficulty in stopping quickly. The sketch shows a method of applying a simple brake to such a coaster, and the materials used may be obtained easily by boys in the home. The rubber mat indicated in the sketch gives a secure footing. The brake consists of a piece of wood, about 10 in. long and 3 in. wide. It is hinged to the base and held in a raised position by a coiled string, attached near the top of the device. A powerful pressure is obtained by throwing the rider’s weight on the pedal.
Fountain-Pen Wrench
Experiencing considerable difficulty in unfastening the parts of my fountain pen, I pressed into service an eraser in the method illustrated. The grip on the pen parts was positive and resulted in quickly releasing them without marring the surface or injuring the fingers.--Contributed by Charles R. Mellen, Jr., Geneva, N. Y.
Diving Tower for the Summer Camp
Aquatic pleasures and sports at a summer camp or lake may be considerably enlivened by the building of a diving tower like that shown in the sketch. It has proved very successful at a boys’ summer camp at Crystal Lake, Ill. The boys have made a practice for several years of building a tower early each swimming season on the opening of their camp in July and disposing of it for about $5 at the close of the camp some weeks later. This covers the cost of the lumber, and several resorts and cottages now boast towers made by the campers.
The tower is built largely of 2 by 4-in. stock. The longer pieces at the corners are 12 ft. in length, slanted so that the lower end of the tower is 7 ft. square and the platform at the top 3 ft. square. The handrail at the top is fixed to extensions of the rear uprights. A spring board is fastened on two horizontal braces near the middle of the tower, and is reached by the ladder. The structure is built on the shore and towed out to its position. It is sunk and weighted by the box of stone supported on cross braces.--Contributed by F. D. Lewis.
Gas Mantles Made at Home
I spent several interesting hours in experimenting with gas mantles which I made at home, and the process should be of interest to others. While I did not succeed in making mantles of the quality of the commercial article, they were nevertheless successful and gave light. Magnesium produces a white light when ignited. By using common Epsom salts, which contain magnesium sulphate, I made a strong solution in distilled water. I soaked a piece of gauze bandage in the solution, dried it carefully and soaked it again a number of times, drying it after each immersion. By this time the cloth was stiff with the dry salt. When held in a flame, the cloth catches fire and burns out, leaving the skeleton of magnesium sulphate. This framework, when held in the flame, glows with an intense white light. I shaped a piece of the gauze like a commercial mantle and dipped it into the solution as explained. It proved quite satisfactory.--Contributed by Victor E. Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.
Whistle Warns of Fish Catch
A toy railroad wheel, a piece of hollow cane, and pieces of wire are the materials necessary for making the whistle shown in the illustration, which warns a fisherman that a fish is attempting to make away with his bait. The wheel is fitted into the end of the cane and wedged into place to form a tight joint. The wires are formed into loops at the ends of the cane and fixed to it. The whistle is attached to the fishline, as shown, with the open end down and slightly below the surface of the water. The fishpole may be fixed so that the whistle will remain in this position while the fisherman is at ease in the shade near by. When the fish attempts to make away with the bait, as shown in the sketch, the water forces the air in the upper part of the cane out through the center hole of the wheel, and a whistling sound is the result.
Anchor for a Canoe or Small Boat
Small craft, particularly those used for fishing or on streams where a current is encountered, should be provided with an anchor. The illustration gives details for making one that is simple in construction and inexpensive. It weighs about five pounds, and is heavy enough for light craft up to 18 ft. long.
The main section was made of a piece of 1¹⁄₂-in. angle iron, 10 in. long. The flukes, or endpieces, were made of sheet iron, 2 in. wide and 8 in. long, bent at a right angle, and riveted in place. The straps which hold the link, permitting it to swing freely, were made of band iron. The link was made of an old bicycle crank, into which a ring was forged. It may be made of iron rod, forged into the desired shape and fitted with a ring. A convenient method of handling the anchor on a boat is to run the line through a pulley at the bow and fasten the end of it to a cleat, near the seat of the person handling the craft. Care must be taken, in a canoe or small boat, that sufficient line is provided to reach the bottom of the anchorage, as otherwise the craft may be overturned.--Contributed by B. E. Dobree, Battleford, Sask., Canada.
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¶The use of gasoline instead of turpentine for a thinner will prevent the sagging of colors in striping.
Oiler for a Hand-Drill Press
On stationary hand-power drill presses, where both hands are required to turn the crank and hold the work, some means must be provided for applying lubricant to the drill, or the machine would have to be stopped from time to time to apply the oil. A very handy arrangement, for pouring the oil on automatically, is to make a support of wire to hold an oilcan, as shown. This will provide a slow and constant dropping of oil on the bit.--Contributed by Bert Verne, San Diego, Cal.
Bearing for Playground Swings
To have the playground swing work easily and without friction make the hangers as shown in the sketch. The ring in the hooks produces a slight rolling action and gives the swing a free motion.--Contributed by Edwin J. Bachman, Jr., Fullerton, Pa.
Die in a Bottle
The die is made of cork and the spots painted white. A small round bottle is procured, the die is placed in it and the bottle is filled with water. Be sure to have enough water to prevent any air bubbles when it is corked tightly. The cork is then sealed in the bottle. If there is an air bubble, the cork die will not work well.
If the bottle is held bottom up, the cork die will spin around and float up against the bottom of the bottle where the number of spots can be seen. It is impossible to manipulate the die to turn up any desired spots, this being left entirely to chance. A number of bottles can be prepared so that any of the dice games can be played.--Contributed by Henry J. Marion, Pontiac, Michigan.
Small Hook for Hanging a Picture
After an unsuccessful attempt to hang a small picture with a common pin, I devised the following method: After bending about ³⁄₈ in. of the point on an ordinary pin to an angle of about 45 deg. and bending up the other end in the opposite direction to form a hook, I drove the point on a downward slant into the wall. It went in easily and did not mar the plaster. When making a test I found that the hook would readily support a weight of several pounds.--Contributed by C. P. Smith, E. Radford, Va.
Covering Hinge Wings
In making fancy boxes where ordinary hinges are used, a much neater job can be done if as much of the hinge as possible is covered. This can be done by carefully raising a sliver with a sharp chisel as at A. The wings are bent at an angle, as shown at B, and are then set in place, as shown at C. The sliver is carefully glued back in place over the hinge wing, and the surface is leveled with sandpaper.
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¶A bit of rubber insulation stripped from an electric wire makes an excellent holder for a scarfpin.
How to Make Hammocks
BY CHARLES M. MILLER