Chapter 13

It should not be passed unnoticed here, that this very grateful and wholesome root is not at all times to be eaten with impunity. One or two instances of its deleterious effects have been witnessed by my much esteemed friend Dr. Taylor, the worthy Secretary at the Society of Arts, and which he has communicated to me. I shall insert his own words, particularly as it may be the means of preventing the botanical student from falling into the same error, after arriving with the usual good appetite, from his recreative task of herborizing excursions. "Some gentlemen having ordered a dinner at a tavern, of which scraped horse-radish was one; some persons in company took a small quantity, and, dipping it in salt, ate of it: these were soon seized with a suppression of urine, accompanied with inflammation of the kidneys, which shortly after proved fatal to one of the company. The Doctor was consulted; but not knowing exactly the cause of the complaint, of course was at a loss to apply a remedy in time. But another circumstance of the like nature having come under his notice, and being apprized of it, by a well applied corrective medicine he recovered the patient. It should, therefore, be made a general observation, under such circumstances, and those are not the most unpleasant we meet with in our researches, 'never to eat horse-radish on an empty stomach.'"

461. RAMPION. Campanula Rapunculus.--This plant is remarkable for its milky juice. In France, it is cultivated for its roots, which are boiled and eaten with salads; but in England it is little noticed, except by the French cooks, who use it as an ingredient in their soups and gravies. It is propagated by planting its roots in the spring.

462. RHAPONTIC RHUBARB. Rheum Rhaponticum.--The radical leaf-stalks of this plant being thick and juicy, and having an acid taste, are frequently used in the spring as a substitute for gooseberries before they are ripe, in making puddings, pies, tarts, &c. If they are peeled with care, they will bake and boil very well, and eat agreeably.

463. ROCAMBOLE. Allium sativum.--The rocambole is merely the bulbs on the top of the flower-stalk of the garlic, it being a viviparous plant. The flavour of this being somewhat different, is used in the kitchen under the above name.

464. SAGE. Salvia officinalis.--Of this we have two varieties, green and red. The latter is considered the best for culinary purposes: it is the well-known sauce for geese and other water-fowl. It is propagated by cuttings in the spring.

465. SALSAFY. Tragopogon porrifolium.--A biennial, sown in March, and is usually in season during winter. The roots are the parts used, which are very sweet, and contain a large quantity of milky juice: it is a good vegetable plain boiled, and the professors of cookery make many fine dishes of it.

466. SAVORY, SUMMER. Satureja hortensis.

467. SAVORY, WINTER. Satureja montana.

Both sorts are used for the same purposes, as condiments among other herbs for stuffing, and are well known to cooks. The former is an annual, and raised by sowing the seeds in March and April. The other, being perennial, is propagated either by the same means or by cuttings in the spring of the year. It is also dried for winter use.

468. SAVOY CABBAGE. Brassica oleracea, (var.)

The Green Savoy. The White or Yellow Savoy.

A well-known species of cabbage grown for winter use, and is one of our best vegetables of that season. It is raised by sowing the seeds in May, and planting the plants in any spot of ground in July after a crop of peas or beans. Savoys stand the frost better than most other kinds of cabbages with close heads.

469. SCORZONERA. Scorzonera tingitana.--The roots of this are very similar to salsafy, and its culture and use nearly the same.

470. SEA KALE. Crambe maritima.--This grows wild on our sea-coasts, particularly in Devonshire, where it has long been gathered and eaten by the inhabitants thereabouts. It was used also to be cultivated; but was in general lost to our gardens, till my late partner, Mr. Curtis, having paid a visit to his friend Dr. Wavell at Barnstaple, found it at that gentleman's table; and on his return he collected some seeds, and planted a considerable spot of ground with it at Brompton in 1792; at which time it was again introduced to Covent-Garden, but with so little successs, that no person was found to purchase it, and consequently the crop was useless.

This celebrated botanist, however, published a small tract on its uses and culture, which met with a considerable sale, and introduced it again to general cultivation.

The seeds should be sown in March, and the following year the plants are fit for forming plantations, when they should be put out in rows about three feet apart, and one foot in the row. The vegetable is blanched either by placing over the crowns of the root an empty garden-pot, or by earthing it up as is usually done with celery. It is easily forced, by placing hot dung on the pots; and is brought forward in January, and from thence till May.

It has been noticed of sea-kale, that, on eating it, it does not impart to the urine that strong and unpleasant scent which asparagus and other vegetables do.

471. SKIRRETS. Sium Sisarum.--The roots of this plant are very similar to parsneps, both in flavour and quality; they are rather sweeter, and not quite so agreeable to some palates. It is a biennial sown in March, and used all the winter.

472. SORREL, COMMON. Rumex Acetosa.--Bryant says the Irish, who are particularly fond of acids, eat the leaves with their milk and fish; and the Laplanders use the juice of them as rennet to their milk. The Greenlanders cure themselves of the scurvy, with the juice mixed with that of the scurvy-grass. The seeds may be sown, or the roots planted, in spring or autumn; it is not in general cultivation, but is to be found abundantly wild in meadows, &c.

473. SORREL, ROUND-LEAVED, or FRENCH. Rumex scutatus.--The leaves of the plant have more acidity in them than the common; and although not in general use, it is one of the best salad-herbs in the early part of the year: it is propagated in the same mode as the common sort.

474. SPINACH, Spinacia oleracea.---Two sorts of this vegetable are cultivated. The Round-leaved, which is very quick in its growth, is sown for summer use; and if the seeds are put into the ground every three weeks, a constant succession is obtained while the weather is warm; but frost will soon destroy it.

The Prickly Spinach is not so quick in growth, and is hardy enough to stand our winters: it is therefore sown in August, and succeeds the round-leaved sort; and is a good vegetable all our winter months.

475. TARRAGON. Artemisia Dracunculus.--The leaves of this make a good ingredient with salad in the spring; and it also makes an excellent pickle. It is propagated by planting the small roots in spring or autumn, being a perennial.

476. THYME. Thymus vulgaris.--This is a well-known potherb used in broths and various modes of cookery: it is propagated by seeds and cuttings early in the spring.

477. TRUFFLES. Lycoperdon Tuber.--Not in cultivation. The poor people in this country find it worth their while to train up dogs for the purpose of finding them, which, by having some frequently laid in their way, become so used to it, that they will scrape them up in the woods; hence they are called Truffle-dogs. The French cooks use them in soups, &c. in the same manner as mushrooms. The truffle is mostly found in beech woods: I have mentioned this, because it is very generally met with at table, although it is not in cultivation.

478. TURNEPS. Brassica Rapa.--The varieties in use for garden culture are, the Early Dutch, the Early Stone, and the Mouse-tail Turnep. The culture and uses of the turnep are too well known to require any description.

The country people cut a raw turnep in thin slices, and a lemon in the same manner: and by placing the slices alternately with sugar-candy between each, the juice of the turnep is extracted, and is used as a pleasant and good remedy in obstinate coughs, and will be found to relieve persons thus afflicted, if taken immediately after each fit. Although this is one of the remedies my young medical friends may be led to despise, yet I would, nevertheless, advise them to make use of it when need occasions.

The yellow turnep is also much esteemed as a vegetable; but is dry, and very different in taste from any of the common kinds.

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SECTION X.--CULINARY PLANTS NOT IN CULTIVATION.

The following section cannot be too closely studied by people in all ranks of life. Many of our most delicate vegetables are found growing wild; and in times of scarcity, and after hard winters, many articles of this department will be found highly acceptable to all, and the condition of the poorer classes would be bettered by a more intimate knowledge of those plants. In fact, these and the medicinal plants ought to be known to every one: and in order to facilitate the study of them, I have been thus particular in my description of the different kinds.

479. AGARIC, ORANGE. Agaricus deliciosus.--This agaric well boiled and seasoned with pepper and salt, has a flavour similar to that of a roasted muscle. In this way the French, in general, make use of it. It is in high perfection about September, and is chiefly to be found in dry woods.

480. ALEXANDERS. Smyrnium Olustratum.--If the poorer people were aware of the value of this plant, which is now quite neglected, it might be turned to good account as an article of food, and that, in all likelihood, of the most wholesome kind.

Bryant thinks it was much esteemed by the monks, and states that it has, ever since the destruction of the abbeys in this country, remained in many places growing among the rubbish; hence the reason of its being found wild in such places.

481. ALEXANDERS, ROUND-LEAVED. Smyrnium perfoliatum.---It is said that the leaves and stalks boiled are more pleasant to the taste than the other kind of Alexanders.

482. ARROWHEAD. Sagittaria sagittifolia.--The roots of this plant are said to be very similar to the West-India arrow-root. They are sometimes dried and pounded, but are reported to have an acrid unpleasant taste; but this might perhaps be got rid of by washing the powder in water.

483. BLACKBERRY. Rubus fruticosus.--The berries of this plant are well known in the country; but if too many be eaten, they are apt to cause swelling in the stomach, sickness, &c.

484. BRIONY, BLACK. Tamus communis.--Although this is considered a poisonous plant, the young leaves and shoots are eaten boiled by the common people in the spring.

485. BURDOCK. Arctium Lappa.--Mr. Bryant in his Flora Diaetetica says that many people eat the tenders talks of this plant boiled as asparagus.

486. BURNET. Sanguisorba officinalis.--The young leaves form a good ingredient in salads. They have somewhat the flavour of cucumbers.

487. BUTTERWORT. Pinguicula vulgaris.--The inhabitants of Lapland and the north of Sweden give to milk the consistence of cream by pouring it warm from the cow upon the leaves of this plant, and then instantly straining it and laying it aside for two or three days till it acquires a degree of acidity.

This milk they are extremely fond of; and once made, they need not repeat the use of the leaves as above, for a spoonful or less of it will turn another quantity of warm milk, and make it like the first, and so on, as often as they please to renew their food.--Lightfoot's Flor. Scot. p. 77.

488. CHAMPIGNON. Agaricus pratensis.--There is little or no smell to be perceived in this plant, and it is rather dry; yet when boiled or stewed it communicates a good flavour, and is equal to the common mushroom.

489. CHANTARELLE. Agaricus Chantarellus.--This agaric, when broiled with pepper and salt, has a taste very similar to that of a roasted cockle, and is considered by the French a great delicacy. It is found principally in woods and old pastures, and is in good perfection about the middle of September.

490. CHARLOCK. Sinapis arvensis.--The young plant is eaten in the spring as turnep-tops, and is considered not inferior to that vegetable. The seeds of this have sometimes been saved and sold for feeding birds instead of rape; but being hot in its nature, it has been known to cause them to be diseased.

491. CHICKWEED. Alsine media.--This is a remarkably good herb boiled in the spring; a circumstance not sufficiently attended to.

492. CLOUD-BERRY. Rubus Chamaemorus.--This plant grows wild in some parts of the north of England: the fruit has nearly the shape of the currant, and is reckoned in Norway, where it grows abundantly, a favourite dish.

493. COTTON-THISTLE. Onopordon Acanthium.--The tender stalks of this plant, peeled and boiled, are by some considered good; but it has a peculiar taste which is not agreeable to all.

Bryant in his Flora Diaetetica says that the bottoms of the flowers are eaten as artichokes.

494. COW-PARSNEP. Heracleum Sphondylium.--The inhabitants of Kamschatka about the beginning of July collect the foot-stalks of the radical leaves of this plant, and, after peeling off the rind, dry them separately in the sun; and then tying them in bundles, they lay them up carefully in the shade. In a short time afterwards, these dried stalks are covered over with a yellow saccharine efflorescence tasting like liquorice, and in this state they are eaten as a delicacy.

The Russians, not content with eating the stalks thus prepared, contrive to get a very intoxicating spirit from them, by first fermenting them in water with the greater bilberry (Vaccinium uliginosum), and then distilling the liquor to what degree of strength they please; which Gmelin says is more agreeable to the taste than spirits made from corn. This may, therefore, prove a good succedaneum for whisky, and prevent the consumption of much barley, which ought to be applied to better purposes. Swine and rabbits are very fond of this plant.---Lightfoot's Fl. Scot.

495. DANDELION. Leontodum Taraxacum.--This is a good salad when blanched in the spring. The French, who eat more vegetables than our country people do, use this in the spring as a common dish: it is similar to endive in taste.

496. DEWBERRY. Rubus caesius.--The dewberry is very apt to be mistaken for the blackberry; but it may be easily distinguished by its fruit being not so large, and being covered with blue bloom similar to that seen on plums: it has a very pleasant taste, and is said to communicate a grateful flavour to red wine when steeped in it.

497. EARTH-NUT. Bunium Bulbocastanum.--The roots are eaten raw, and considered a delicacy here, but thought much more of in Sweden, where they are an article of trade: they are eaten also stewed as chesnuts.

498. ELDER. Sambucus nigra.--The young shoots of elder are boiled with other herbs in the spring and eaten; they are also very good pickled in vinegar. Lightfoot says, in some countries they dye cloth of a brown colour with them.

499. FAT-HEN. Chenopodium viride et album.--These are boiled and eaten as spinach, and are by no means inferior to that vegetable.

500. FUCUS, SWEET. Fucus saccharatus.--This grows upon rocks and stones by the sea-shore. It consists of a long single leaf, having a short roundish foot-stalk, the leaf representing a belt or girdle. This is collected and eaten the same as laver, as are also the two following kinds.

501. FUCUS, PALMATED. Fucus palmatus.--This plant also grows by the sea-side, and has a lobed leaf.

502. FUCUS, FINGERED. Fucus digitatus.--This is also to be found by the sea-side, growing upon rocks and stones; it has long leaves springing in form of fingers when spread.

503. GOOD KING HENRY. Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus.--The leaves and stalk of this plant are much esteemed. The plant was used to be cultivated, but of late years it has been superseded by the great number of other esculent vegetables more productive than this. The young shoots blanched were accounted equal to asparagus, and were made use of in a similar manner.

504. HEATH. Erica vulgaris.--Formerly the young tops are said to have been used alone to brew a kind of ale; and even now, I am informed, the inhabitants of Isla and Jura (two islands on the coast of Scotland) continue to brew a very potable liquor, by mixing two-thirds of the tops of heath with one of malt.--Lightfoot's Fl. Scot.

505. HOPS. Humulus Lupulus.--Independently of the great use of hops in making beer, and for medicinal uses, where the plant grows wild, it affords the neighbours a dainty in the spring months. The young shoots, called hop-tops, when boiled, are equal in flavour to asparagus, and are eagerly sought after for that purpose.

506. LADIES-SMOCK. Cardamine pratensis.--This is good as a salad herb.

507. LAVER. Fucus esculentus.--This is collected by sailors and people along the sea-coasts; is eaten both raw and boiled, and esteemed and excellent antiscorbutic. The leaves of this Fucus are very sweet, and, when washed and hanged up to dry, will exude a substance like that of sugar.

508. MAPLE. Acer Pseudo-platanus.--By tapping this tree it yields a liquor not unlike that of the birch-tree, from which the Americans make a sugar, and the Highlanders sometimes an agreeable and wholesome wine. --Lightfoot's Fl. Scot.

509. MARSH MARIGOLD. Caltha palustris.--The flower-buds, before opening, are picked, and are considered a good substitute for capers.

510. MEADOW-SWEET. Spiraea Filipendula.--The roots of this, in Sweden, are ground and made into bread.

511. MILK-THISTLE. Carduus marianus.--The young leaves in the spring, cut close to the root with part of the stalks on, are said to be good boiled.

512. MOREL. Phallus esculentus.--The morel grows in wet banks and moist pastures. It is used by the French cooks, the same as the truffle, for gravies, but has not so good a flavour: it is in perfection in May and June.

513. MUSHROOM, VIOLET. Agaricus violaceus.--This mushroom requires more broiling than all the rest; but when well done and seasoned, it is very good. It is found in dry woods, old pastures, &c. where it grows to a large size.

514. MUSHROOM, BROWN. Agaricus cinnamomeus.--The whole of this plant has a nice smell, and when stewed or broiled has a pleasant flavour. It is to be found as the one above, and is fit for use in October.

515. ORPINE. Sedum telephium.--The leaves are eaten in salads, and are considered equal to purslane.

516. OX-TONGUE, COMMON. Picris Echioides.--The leaves are said to be good boiled.

517. PEAS, EARTH-NUT. Orobus tuberosus.--The roots of this, when boiled, are said to be nutritious. The Scotch Highlander chews the root as a substitute for tobacco.

518. PILEWORT. Ranunculus Ficaria.--The young leaves in spring are boiled by the common people in Sweden, and eaten as greens. The roots are sometimes washed bare by the rains, so that the tubercles appear above ground; and in this state have induced the ignorant in superstitious times to fancy that it has rained wheat, which these tubercles sometimes resemble.

519. SALEP. Orchis Morio.--The powder of these roots is used for a beverage of that name. This is imported chiefly from Turkey. It grows in this country, although it is never noticed: the roots are smaller than those imported, but will answer the purpose equally well.

520. SALTWORT. Salicornia europaea.--This is gathered on the banks of the Thames and Medway, and brought to London, where it is sold as samphire. It makes a very good pickle, but by no means equal to the true kind.

521. SAMPHIRE. Crithmum maritimum.--This has long been in much esteem as a pickle: it grows on the high cliffs on the Kentish coast, where people make a trade of collecting it by being let down from the upper part in baskets. A profession of great danger.

522. SCURVY-GRASS. Cochlearia officinalis.--The leaves are hot and pungent, but are considered very good, and frequently eaten between bread and butter.

523. SAUCE ALONE. Erysimum Alliaria.--This is very good boiled with salt-meat in the spring, when other vegetables are scarce. It is valuable to the poor people; and is, in general, a common plant under hedges.

524. SEA BINDWEED. Convolvulus Soldanella.--This plant is to be found plentifully on our maritime coasts, where the inhabitants plucks the tender stalks, and pickle them. It is considered to have a cathartic quality.

525. SEA-PEAS. Pisum maritimum.--These peas have a bitterish disagreeable taste, and are therefore rejected when more pleasant food is to be got. In the year 1555 there was a great famine in England, when the seeds of this plant were used as food, and by which thousands of families were preserved.

526. SEA-WORMWOOD. Artemisia maritima.--Those who travel the country in searching after and gathering plants, if they chance to meet with sour or ill-tasted ale, may amend it by putting an infusion of sea-wormwood into it, whereby it will be more agreeable to the palate, and less hurtful to the stomach.--Threlkeld. Syn. Pl. Hibern.

This is an ingredient in the common purl, the usual morning beverage of our hardy labouring men in London.

527. SEA-ORACH, GRASS-LEAVED. Atriplex littoralis.--This plant is eaten in the same manner as the Chenopodium.

528. SEA-BEET. Beta maritima.--This is a common plant on some of our sea-coasts. The leaves are very good boiled, as are also the roots.

529. SILVER-WEED. Potentilla anserina.--The roots of this plant taste like parsneps, and are frequently eaten in Scotland either roasted or boiled.

In the islands of Tiras and Col they are much esteemed, as answering in some measure the purposes of bread, they having been known to support the inhabitants for months together during a scarcity of other provisions. They put a yoke on their ploughs, and often tear up their pasture-grounds with a view to get the roots for their use; and as they abound most in barren and impoverished soils, and in seasons when other crops fail, they afford a most seasonable relief to the inhabitants in times of the greatest scarcity. A singular instance this of the bounty of Providence to these islands.--Lightfoot's Fl. Scot.

530. SOLOMON'S-SEAL. Convallaria Polygonatum.--The roots are made into bread, and the young shoots are eaten boiled.

531. SPATLING-POPPY. Cucubalus Behen.--Our kitchen-gardens scarcely afford a better-flavoured vegetable than the young tender shoots of this when boiled. They ought to be gathered when they are not above two inches long. If the plant was in cultivation, no doubt but what it would be improved, and would well reward the gardener's trouble: it sends forth a vast quantity of sprouts, which might be nipped off when of a proper size; and there would be a succession of fresh ones for at least two months.

It being a perennial too, the roots might be transplanted into beds like those of asparagus.--Bryant's Fl. Diaetetica, p. 64.

532. SPEEDWELL. Veronica spicata.--This is used by our common people as a substitute for tea, and is said to possess a somewhat astringent taste, like green tea.

533. SPOTTED HAWKWEED. Hypochaeris maculata.--The leaves are eaten as salad, and are also boiled.

534. STINGING-NETTLE. Urtica dioica.--The young shoots in the spring are eaten boiled with fat meat, and are esteemed both wholesome and nutritive.

535. SHRUBBY STRAWBERRY. Rubus arcticus.--The fruit of this plant is very similar in appearance to a strawberry: its odour is of the most grateful kind; and its flavour has that delicate mixture of acid and sweet, which is not to be equalled by our best varieties of that fruit.

536. SWEET CICELY. Scandix odorata.--The leaves used to be employed in the kitchen as those of cervil. The green seeds ground small, and used with lettuce or other cold salads, give them an agreeable taste. It also grows in abundance in some parts of Italy, where it is considered as a very useful vegetable.