CHAPTER VI.
PATENTS FOR TANNING.
The following described processes for Tanning have been patented at different periods since 1849.
The first may be denominated Hibbard’s patent, issued to Mr. Hibbard, of Henrietta, N. Y.
A patent for a modified process in tanning leather, which is specially applicable to light skins, but may be used in all kinds of tanning.
The gist of the invention consists first, in a modified process of unhairing the skins, by a composition of lime, potash and salt, by which the process is very much shortened; and secondly, by combining what is called the process of _plumping_ with that of _tanning_. It is alleged by the patentee that the process of plumping, which consists in the use of acids, to open the pores of the skins, is like that of rising dough by yeast; namely, that after the pores have once been fairly opened, if the tanning process is not commenced immediately, they will soon begin to close; as dough once raised, if not transferred at the proper time to the oven to be baked, will fall, and an inferior bread will be the result.
The process of tanning therefore, as set forth by the inventor, consists in the combination of the plumping and the tanning process, so that as soon as the acids have acted to open the pores of the skins, the tannin present in the liquor, shall enter and perform its part in the operation.
The next may be described as Towle’s process, or improvement in tanning. Issued Oct. 7, 1851.
What I claim as my invention or discovery, as a new and useful improvement, and desire to secure by letters patent, is the use of arsenic or arsenious acid, substantially in the manner and for the purposes herein set forth; the peculiar properties of arsenic, by which it tends to suspend the natural tendency of the animal fibre to decomposition upon the extinction of animal life, are well known, and of course they are not patentable; but their application to the processes of tanning, and otherwise preparing skins and hides for useful purposes, by which they are rendered stronger and more durable, is believed not to have been heretofore known and used.
I do not, therefore, intend to limit my claim to any particular mode or period of using the article; but I shall apply it in such form, or in such strength of solution, as the nature of the case may require, to effect the objects named. Workmen should guard against the absorption of the poisonous qualities of the arsenic, while immersing or handling the skins in the liquor, by using tools or wearing India-rubber gloves. After the skins are taken out of the liquor and rinsed thoroughly, the danger ceases.
N. C. TOWLE.
A patent for the following method of tanning was issued March 22, 1853, to Roswell Enos & Bela T. Hunt, of St. Charles, Ill.
We claim the process of tanning with the use of lime, salt, bran, sumac, and cutch, or any other tanning in room of cutch, substantially in the manner described, whereby we commence tanning, at the same time that we commence reducing, as the salt and bran overpowers the lime, the tan takes the place of the lime, and converts the hide into more perfect leather, and in less time than can be made in any other way.
Hides are not liable to get damaged by our process, as we do not use an article that is injurious to leather.
It is not on the materials used that we claim letters patent, but on the manner of applying them to the hide, as set forth.
The next is to Roswell Enos. Improvement in the process of tanning leather for soles. Patented July 18, 1854.
The improvement and claim consist in commencing the tanning operation upon the sides, by the use of a salted infusion of sumac, and then completing said tanning operation by the repeated use of the strong oak or hemlock bark liquor, substantially as set forth. It is stated that solid sole leather may be produced by this process in an unusually short time.
APPENDIX.
JENKINS’ NEW AND IMPROVED HEATER AND PRESS, FOR MAKING CEMENTED BOOTS AND SHOES.
This “Heater” is a new invention recently introduced, to heat the soles and shoes of the most delicate stock for cementation. The heat is applied only to the cemented surfaces, which require uniting. This process prevents the hardening and contracting of the sole leather and uppers. The old “cooking” process greatly damaged the stock, and frequently spoiled it utterly, as it was simply a matter of pure luck whether the stock was heated to a proper degree or crisped by over-heating. This “Heater” can be regulated to the exact degree of heat desired. They are manufactured in a portable form for such as wish to do a limited business. The heat from a single lamp, or hot water, or steam can be used.
_Jenkins’ Press_, patented Sept. 7, 1858, is designed to hold every description of shoes and soles, in their proper position, while being pressed and cooled. The thinnest soles and taps, double-soles or welts, from the finest ladies’ shoes to coarse brogans or kip boots are held firmly by this Press. They are cooled in a very short time and receive equal pressure on the bottom of the shoe or its edges, together with the clamping apparatus holding the shoe, soles and stock. The Press can also be used as a “Heater” when desired, by filling the base containing the water for cooling the shoe, with hot air, steam, or hot water, thus securing all the heat that is required for melting the cement, and for uniting the various parts of the shoe. The shoe can then be placed in a cold water-press and cooled. It is then ready for the finisher. By the use of this Press, all outer soles, middle soles, lifts, &c., &c., may be cut with dies; this process is of obvious advantage to the manufacturer, as all thin or thick soles will not require paring off, or may have their edges finished before they are put on, thus preventing all cutting of the uppers in paring off, which item is of great importance to the manufacturer.
VALUABLE AND RELIABLE RECIPES FOR GUTTA-PERCHA AND INDIA-RUBBER CEMENT, FOR BOOTS AND SHOES. ALSO, VARNISHES, GUMS AND GLUES.
The following highly important recipes have been arranged and selected with great care. Some of them are original discoveries, the result of personal test and application, and are entirely reliable. Others have been compiled from the highest sources, and are submitted with full confidence in their virtues. The cements for boots and shoes of India-rubber and gutta-percha are of great practical utility, and the information we thus furnish we regard as almost invaluable to the boot and shoe manufacturer. The varnishes are also equally important, and may be relied upon as the best yet discovered. The Water-Proof Cement and Glues are simple in their ingredients and easily prepared.
_Bisulphuret of Carbon_ is remarkable for its great solvent powers, readily dissolving substances which no other fluid can so effectually influence, such as sulphur, phosphorus, iodine, etc. It has, however, a fetid odor, and is inflammable, burning with a blue flame. It has been used as a solvent of India-rubber, but for the common cements of rubber and gutta-percha the triple refined camphene is preferable. The rubber cement has long been used for cementing shoes in Lynn, Roxbury, and other large shoe manufacturing towns in Massachusetts. It is easily made, by dissolving it in pure camphene and grinding it in a paint mill; many manufacturers mix it in large portions of lampblack, sulphur, zinc and charcoal. The charcoal is remarkable for its indestructibility, resisting the most intense heat; the fact is, that the more carbon an organized body contains, so much the less liable is it to decomposition, it is for this reason that it is by some regarded as much better than lampblack, for rubber cements. It is ground into the rubber in large quantities, making a paint or mixture of any required tenacity. The Bogarbus eccentric rubber mill is most commonly used for grinding rubber cements for shoes, or for spreading upon cloth. Rubber cements are _only_ good for cementing shoes when the stock is perfectly _free_ from oil or grease, and kept _free_ from such contact; a condition which is hardly possible. All oleaginous substances are _sure_ to decompose rubber in all its common preparations, vulcanized or not. Gutta-percha cements, on the contrary, are not easily affected by oleaginous substances, unless too much heat is used in perfecting the union of the various parts of a boot or shoe. Calf skins are frequently “stuffed” to full, thus causing the grease to mix with the cement when first applied in a heated state. To prevent this result, use proper care in the application of the cement; see that it is not too hot, also be careful that the shoe itself is not too hot. These precautions well observed, will result in a cementation which will resist the oil in the leather until it is completely worn out.
_Gutta-percha cement_ is made by dissolving it in triple refined camphene. Take from four to five times its weight of camphene, place it into a common glue kettle, boil it on a stove, or by a gas or spirit lamp, as is most convenient; always keeping the water around the vessel to prevent ignition; boil until it is completely dissolved, then strain it, if it is required, and it is ready for use. Always apply the cement warm. If too thick to spread easily with a brush, reduce it with camphene. Heat and mix by stirring the compound well together.
A HARD BRILLIANT BLACK VARNISH FOR BOOT AND SHOE EDGES AND HEELS.
Take three ounces shellac, one ounce sandarach, reduce them to a coarse powder, add one half ounce of lampblack, place them in a glass vessel, into which pour a pint and a half of the best alcohol; cork tight, and frequently shake the vessel to hasten solution. This varnish will retain its brilliancy for years. It may be spread with a sponge or brush. When it is used for upper leather add half a pint of alcohol and one ounce of turpentine or an ounce of gummastic.
By adding a small portion of sandarach varnish to the common sponge blacking it will make it brilliant and hard. By adding a small portion India-rubber dissolved in triple refined camphene it renders the blacking elastic and water-proof, and useful for boot and shoe uppers, etc.
_Asphaltum_ is a smooth, hard, brittle, black substance, which breaks with a polish, melts easily when heated, and, when pure, burns without leaving any ashes. It makes a cheap and brilliant varnish for boot and shoe heels, by dissolving it in triple refined camphene. It should be made thick so as to spread with the finger or a brush.
_India-rubber_ has been highly extolled for a varnish. Dissolve in five times its weight of triple refined camphene. By keeping it a few days, after it is cut fine, then boil one ounce of this solution in eight ounces of “drying” linseed oil, for a few minutes; strain the solution and use it warm.
WATER-PROOF CEMENT.
Take of the best glue four ounces, of isinglass two ounces, and dissolve them in mild ale over a slow fire, in a common glue kettle, to the consistence of strong glue, when one ounce and a half of well boiled linseed oil must be gradually added, and the whole be well mixed by stirring. When cold and made into cakes, it resembles India-rubber. When wanted for use dissolve a piece of it in a proportionate quantity of ale. This cement is applicable to all joints of wood, to join earthen-ware, china, glass. It is an excellent cement for leather, for harness, bands for machinery, &c. The joints of these are to be prepared as if for sewing, the cement to be applied _hot_, laying a weight upon each joint as it is made, in which state it is to be left six hours, when the joints will be found nearly as firm as if they were of an entire piece. By adding a little tow to the above, you have an excellent cement for leaks in casks, &c.
SEED-LAC VARNISH.
Take three ounces of seed-lac, and put it, with a pint of spirits of wine, into a bottle, of which it will not fill more than two-thirds. Shake the mixture well together, and place it in a gentle heat, till the seed-lac appears to be dissolved: the solution will be hastened by shaking the bottle occasionally. After it has stood some time, pour off the clear part, and keep it for use in a well-stopped bottle. The seed-lac should be purified before it is used, by washing it in cold water, and it should be in coarse powder, when added to the spirit.
This varnish is next to that of copal in hardness, and has a reddish-yellow color: it is, therefore, only to be used where a tinge of that kind is not injurious.
SHELLAC VARNISH.
Take five ounces of the best shellac, reduce it to a gross powder, and put it into a bottle in a gentle heat, or a warm, close apartment, where it must continue two or three days, but should be frequently well shaken. The lac will then be dissolved, and the solution should then be filtered through a flannel bag; and, when the portion that will pass through freely is come off, it should be kept for use in well-stopped bottles.
The portion which can only be made to pass through the bag by pressure, may be reserved for coarse purposes.
Shellac varnish is rather softer than seed-lac varnish, but it is the best of varnishes for mixing with colors to paint with, instead of oil, from its working and spreading better in the pencil.
OF GLUE.
To prepare glue, it must be steeped for a number of hours, over night, for instance, in cold water, by which means it will become considerably swelled and softened. It must then be gently boiled, till it is entirely dissolved, and of a consistence not too thick to be easily brushed over wood.
When glue, by repeatedly heating it, has become of a dark and almost black color, its qualities are impaired; when newly melted, it is of a light ruddy brown color, nearly like that of the dry cake held up to the light; and while this color remains, it may be considered fit for almost every purpose. Though glue which has been melted is the most suitable for use, other circumstances being the same, yet that which has been the longest manufactured is the best. To try the goodness of glue, steep a piece three or four days in cold water; if it swell considerably without melting, and when taken out resumes, in a short time, its former dryness, it is excellent. If it be soluble in cold water, it is a proof that it wants strength.
A glue which does not dissolve in water, may be obtained by melting a common glue with the smallest possible quantity of water, and adding by degrees linseed oil rendered drying by boiling it with litharge; while the oil is added, the ingredients must be well stirred to incorporate them thoroughly.
A glue which will resist water, in a considerable degree, is made by dissolving common glue in skimmed milk.
Finely lixiviated chalk added to the common solution of glue in water, constitutes an addition that strengthens it, and renders it suitable for boards, or other things which must stand the weather.
A glue that will hold against fire or water, may be prepared by mixing a handful of quick-lime with four ounces of linseed oil: thoroughly lixiviate the mixture, boil it to a good thickness, and then spread it on tin plates in the shade; it will become exceedingly hard, but may be dissolved over a fire, as ordinary glue, and is then fit for use.
TO MAKE PORTABLE GLUE.
Take one pound of the best glue, boil and strain it very clear; boil likewise four ounces of isinglass, put it in a double glue-pot, with half a pound of fine brown sugar, and boil it pretty thick; then pour it into moulds; when cold, cut and dry them in small pieces. This glue is very useful to draughtsmen, architects, &c., as it immediately dilutes in warm water, and fastens the paper without the process of damping.
TO MAKE GLUE THAT WILL RESIST MOISTURE.
Dissolve gum sandarach and mastic, of each two ounces, in a pint of spirit of wine, adding about an ounce of clear turpentine. Then take equal parts of isinglass and parchment glue, made according to the directions in the preceding article, and having beaten the isinglass into small bits, and reduced the glue to the same state, pour the solution of the gums upon them, and melt the whole in a vessel well covered, avoiding so great a heat as that of boiling water. When melted, strain the glue through a coarse linen cloth, and then put it again over the fire, adding about an ounce of powdered glass.
This preparation may be best managed by hanging the vessel in boiling water, which will prevent the matter burning to the vessel, or the spirit of wine from taking fire, and indeed it is better to use the same method for all the evaporations of nicer glues and sizes; but, in that case, less water than the proportion directed, should be added to the materials.
ANOTHER METHOD.
A very strong glue, that will resist water, may be also made by adding half a pound of common glue, or isinglass glue, to two quarts of skimmed milk, and then evaporating the mixture to the due consistence of the glue.
TO MAKE PARCHMENT GLUE.
Take one pound of parchment, and boil it in six quarts of water, till the quantity be reduced to one quart; strain off the fluid from the dregs, and then boil it again till it be of the consistence of glue.
The same may be done with glovers’ cuttings of leather, which make a colorless glue, if not burnt in the evaporation of water.
A VERY STRONG COMPOUND GLUE.
Take common glue in very small or thin bits, and isinglass glue: infuse them in as much spirit of wine as will cover them, for at least twenty-four hours. Then melt the whole together, and, while they are over the fire, add as much powdered chalk as will render them an opaque white.
The infusion in the spirit of wine has been directed in the recipes given for glue; but the remark on the use of it in one of the preceding articles will hold good also in this, and the mixture may be made with water only.
TO MAKE COMPOUND GLUE.
Take very fine flour, mix it with white of eggs, isinglass, and a little yeast; mingle the materials; beat them well together; spread them, the batter being made thin with gum-water, on even tin plates, and dry them in a stove, then cut them out for use. To color them, tinge the paste with Brazil, or vermilion for red; indigo or verditer, &c., for blue; saffron, turmeric, or gamboge, &c., for yellow.
TO MAKE ISINGLASS GLUE.
This is made by dissolving beaten isinglass in water by boiling, and having strained it through a coarse linen cloth, evaporating it again to such a consistence, that, being cold, the glue will be perfectly hard and dry.
A great improvement is made in this glue by adding spirit of wine or brandy after it is strained, and then renewing the evaporation till it gains the due consistence.
TO MAKE ISINGLASS SIZE.
This may also be prepared in the manner above directed for the glue, by increasing the proportion of the water for dissolving it, and the same holds good of parchment size. A better sort of the common size may be likewise made by treating cuttings of glovers’ leather in the same manner.
NEW WATER-PROOF CLOTH.
According to a recent statement of M. Payen, a chemist of some note, cloth is rendered water-proof by the aid of alum and sugar of lead, without the aid of India-rubber or gutta-percha, or any other gums or oils. The process given is very simple, and is claimed to render any species of tissue water-proof. “Dissolve two pounds and a half of alum in four gallons of water; dissolve, also, in a separate vessel, the same weight of acetate of lead in the same quantity of water. When both are thoroughly dissolved mix the solutions together, and when the sulphate of lead, resulting from this mixture, has been precipitated to the bottom of the vessel in the form of a powder, pour off the solution, and plunge into it the tissue to be rendered water-proof. Wash and rub it well during a few minutes, and hang it in the air to dry.”
When dry, the fabric or cloth so treated will repel rain and moisture, but allow the air or perspiration to pass through it.
Immerse dry timber in a strong solution of alum, and dry it in a kiln, the warmer the better, and we will warrant it to be the best and cheapest substance for preserving wood from decay and burning. To those who are acquainted with the nature and effects of alum, they know what a great heat alumina can stand, and alum when deprived of its water by strong heat, does not easily combine with it again, by any common means. Therefore, the reasonableness of the foregoing statements.
By washing wood with strong soap suds, allowing it to dry, and then washing it with a strong solution of alum, a most excellent water-proof coating is the result.
Make up a weak solution of soap containing a very small quantity of glue, and immerse paper in it until it is wet through. Now take it out, dip it into a solution of alum, and dry it.
The alum, gluten, gelatine, and soap unite together, and form an insoluble compound, which coats every fibre of the textile fabric, and when dry repels water like the natural oil in the feathers of a duck. There are various substances which are soluble in water singly, but when combined form insoluble compounds, and _vice versa_. Alum, soap, and gelatine are soluble in water singly, but form insoluble compounds when united chemically. Oil is insoluble in water singly, but combined with caustic soda or potash it forms soluble soap. Such are some of the useful curiosities of chemistry.
TO RENDER CANVAS WATER-PROOF.
Take 7 lbs. of soap and dissolve it in two gallons of water, and while at the boiling heat add 3½ lbs. of the sulphate of zinc (white copperas). The sulphuric acid of the salt combines with the alkali of the soap, and the oxide of the salt combines with its oil and forms an insoluble metallic soap, which, when cold, rises to the surface and has the appearance of a white hard mass. This is afterwards re-boiled to purify it. The next step to be taken is to boil 2⅛ gallons of linseed oil along with one pound of potash until it assumes a soapy appearance. The whole is now boiled along with two pounds of fine animal charcoal and five quarts of water, which purifies the mixture, after an hour’s boiling, when the whole is filtered and is of a clear color. About one pound of sugar of lead (acetate) and one pound of rosin is mixed with the oil, and boiled for one hour. Into this mixture is stirred at a boiling heat, 2 lbs. of the metallic soap described above, and after it is dissolved, about two quarts of India-rubber dissolved in turpentine is added, and this completes the making of the mixture. This is put on to the canvas with a brush at the heat of 160° Fah. Two coats will be found sufficient to make it water-proof. More however may be applied. Each coat should be allowed to dry before the other is put on. If copperas be employed in this mixture, it will make it of a brown color, and cobalt a blue.
To make leather water-proof, take equal quantities of the metallic soap and raw linseed oil, mix them together, and place the liquid in at a heat of 225° and suffer it to cool gradually. The leather should be dried in the atmosphere, when it will be perfectly pliable. Any quantity of the above may be made, so as the proportions are maintained.
This is a first rate composition for the purpose stated, and one to which painters should give peculiar attention, so should the manufacturers of glazed and patent leather.
JAPANNING LEATHER.
In November, 1838, William Gates, of Hanover, N. Y., received a patent for preparing and applying elastic japan to leather, to produce the kind now known by the name of “glazed leather.” Two quarts of linseed oil were boiled until the yellow scum disappeared, and two ounces of umber and one of litharge were added and boiled for an hour and a half. The fire was then withdrawn, and all sediment allowed to settle, after which the clear liquor was run off. Eight ounces of India-rubber in shreds were then heated in a close vessel with two quarts of turpentine, and the two quarts of prepared linseed oil described were added, and the whole kept boiling until the India-rubber was dissolved, when eight ounces of asphaltum were added. This constituted the japan for the leather. It was put on the leather with a sponge or brush and allowed to dry, which it did rapidly. It was then rubbed down with pumice stone, then another coat laid on, and so on successively, like varnishing and polishing mahogany or rosewood. This method of japanning leather is now public property.
GUM.
This word stands for a number of substances which, when dissolved in suitable liquids, possess a powerful adhesive property, and the common and well-known gum-arabic may stand as a type of the class. It is the product of an acacia, and was originally imported into Europe from Barbary and Morocco. In its purest condition, it forms white or rather yellowish masses, which are destitute of any crystalline structure, and break with a shell-like fracture. Its solutions are wrongly called _mucilage_, which is an entirely different substance. Gum-arabic dissolves in cold water, from which the pure gummy soluble principle can be precipitated by alcohol and by basic acetate of lead. Arabin is composed of 42.1 per cent. of carbon, 6.4 per cent. of hydrogen, and 51.5 per cent. of oxygen, which, by a curious chemical coincidence, is exactly the composition of crystallized cane sugar, and it illustrates the fact, that among organic bodies, substances of the same ultimate composition may have very dissimilar properties.
Another gum is _mucilage_, very abundant in linseed, in the roots of the mallow, in salep, and in the fleshy roots of the orchis and other plants. It is soluble in cold water, but is less transparent than gum-arabic, and it is precipitated by the neutral acetate or sugar of lead.
_Gum Tragacanth_ is chiefly composed of a kind of mucilage to which the name of _bassorin_ has been given, and which does not dissolve in water, but simply assumes a gelatinous aspect. Caustic soda or potash will dissolve it. The principle use to which this gum is put, is in the manufacture of marbled paper, where it forms the bath on which the colors are thrown, and from which they are taken up by the paper.
_Cerasin_ is the insoluble portion of the gum of the cherry tree, and is nearly like _bassorin_. Mr. Schmidt has determined the composition of these various substances, and has found them all more or less allied to starch, invariably containing hydrogen and oxygen, the proportions in which they form water, and all when treated with acids yield grape sugar.
The jelly of fruits or _pectin_ is closely related to the gums, but as yet chemists have not paid much attention to it, and consequently much that is said of it is merely conjectural.
GUM ARABIC CEMENTS.
Gum arabic, dissolved in as small quantity of water as may be, and diluted to a proper consistence with gin, or any proof spirits, forms a very useful cement for all purposes where gum-water is commonly used, the spirit preserving it from becoming putrescent. As the spirit evaporates, more should be added. It should be stirred and mixed together at the time of using. If plaster of Paris be added to gum-water, it makes a cement useful to ladies in filigree works.
Gum ammoniac added to the solution of gum-arabic in proof spirits very much improves the cement. It answers very well for joining broken glass and ornamental articles of porcelain.
DIRECTORY.
In order to enable strangers and merchants from abroad, as well as those residing in New England, to readily find some of the leading houses in Boston representing the various branches in the BOOT AND SHOE AND LEATHER TRADE, also some of its collateral helps, in the way of Important Inventions, Agencies, &c., we have inserted Advertisements and Cards of a few among the many that we know to occupy highly respectable and reliable positions. Our space is necessarily limited, and we therefore present but a brief list, yet sufficiently large to represent every important interest, also some of the most valuable Labor-saving Machines and Inventions, which are of _great practical utility to the manufacturer_.
VULCANIZED RUBBER SOLES.
This Soling has been growing in favor with the public for the past few years; and recommending itself as it does, for its
ECONOMY, DURABILITY AND COMFORT,
and as a great preserver of health, being perfectly WATER PROOF, deserves general introduction to the people.
It is manufactured in sheets about thirty inches wide, and from one-sixteenth to three-sixteenths of an inch thick, suitable for the thinnest slipper or the heaviest boot.
Its application is perfectly simple. Cement for putting it on, being furnished by the same manufacturers.
PRICE:
=SOLING= 65 cents per pound, =CEMENT=, in boxes, No. 1, $9.00; No. 2, $4.50; No. 3, $3.00 per doz.
DISCOUNT from the above prices made to the trade.
MANUFACTURED AND SOLD BY THE BOSTON BELTING CO., Corner Summer and Chauncy Sts., Boston.
GROVER & BAKER’S
SEWING MACHINES,
for family Sewing and Manufacturing,
18 Summer Street, Boston; 495 Broadway, New York; 730 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia.
From the very flattering manner in which our Machines have been received by the public, (resulting in the sale of upwards of TWENTY THOUSAND,) we are led to believe that our endeavors to manufacture a _reliable_ machine have been appreciated. We take this opportunity to remark that this policy will be unchanged, and that every machine sold by us we shall not hesitate to warrant in every respect.
* * * * *
AMERICAN ELASTIC CLOTH CO.,
MANUFACTURERS OF
ELASTIC CLOTH,
FOR
GORES IN CONGRESS BOOTS,
WARRANTED to wear as well, and give as good satisfaction as any other Elastic goods ever made, and THIRTY PER CENT. CHEAPER.
GEO. N. DAVIS & BRO.,
Nos. 152 and 154 Congress St., Boston; and No. 165 William St., New York,
Commission Merchants, and Manufacturers’ Agents,
FOR THE SALE OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF
INDIA RUBBER GOODS,
ENAMELLED CLOTHS, &c., &c.
An Illustrated and Descriptive Catalogue sent, on application, and receipt of two Postage Stamps.
HOW BROTHERS,
IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN
Shoe Manufacturers Goods.
ITALIAN CLOTHS, WORSTED LASTINGS, SERGE DE BERRIS, UNION LASTINGS, SATIN FRANCAIS, CONGRESS RUBBER WEB, BLEACHED DRILLS, BROWN DUCKS, BLEACHED DUCKS, FRENCH GLOVE, CALF, MOROCCO AND KID SKINS, SLIPPER PATTERNS, MACHINE SILK, MACHINE LINEN THREAD, SILK, LINEN AND COTTON SHOE LACINGS, SATIN RIBBONS, SHOE BUTTONS, BLACK AND COLOR’D UNION GALLOONS, EYELETS, ROSETTES, ORNAMENTS, SLIPPER ELASTICS, STANDARD 10 H. B. AND 3 H. B. SHOE THREAD.
All of which we are prepared to offer to the trade at the lowest market rates.
NO. 11. PEARL ST., BOSTON.
BOOT & SHOE WAREHOUSE
HENRY L. DAGGETT,
WHOLESALE DEALER IN
Boots, Shoes and Leather,
AND IMPORTER OF
SHOE MANUFACTURERS GOODS,
SOLE AGENT FOR THE
Congress Rubber Company Elastic Webbing,
FOR GAITER BOOTS.
RUBBER BOOTS AND SHOES
on hand; a complete assortment at the _lowest market rates_. JOBBERS and RETAILERS supplied on very favorable terms.
MANUFACTURERS and DEALERS will find at this Warehouse a complete assortment of goods in their line which will be sold at the lowest prices for CASH, or approved paper.
CONSIGNMENTS solicited, and advances made.
No. 101 and 103 Pearl Street, Boston.
LINDSLEY, SHAW & CO.,
WHOLESALE DEALERS IN
BOOTS, SHOES,
AND
RUBBERS.
ALSO MANUFACTURE
Men’s Boy’s and Youth’s Calf Boots, and Kip and Calf Brogans and Oxford Ties,
OF QUALITIES ADAPTED TO THE NEW ENGLAND RETAIL TRADE.
PEARL ST., COR. HIGH, BOSTON.
Joseph C. Lindsley, Theron V. Shaw, Rufus Gibbs.
* * * * *
AMOS P. TAPLEY,
DEALER IN
BOOTS AND SHOES,
OF PRIME QUALITY,
FOR THE NEW ENGLAND AND WESTERN TRADE.
Chambers, Pearl, corner High St., Boston.
* * * * *
HENRY POOR & SON,
Hide and Leather Dealers, and Commission Merchants,
No. 84 North Street, Boston.
HENRY POOR, EDEN S. POOR, HENRY C. POOR, JOHN O. POOR, CHAS. C. POOR.
* * * * *
COMINS & CO.,
MANUFACTURERS OF
Patent, Enamelled, Buff and Split Leather,
NO. 22 DOCK SQUARE, BOSTON.
L. B. COMINS. F. S. MERRITT.
JOHN B. ALLEY & CO.,
MANUFACTURERS OF
Patent, Enamelled, Split & Grain Leather,
CALF SKINS, &C.
COMMISSION MERCHANTS
FOR THE SALE OF
SOLE LEATHER,
AND IMPORTERS OF
BOOT AND SHOE MANUFACTURERS’ GOODS OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS,
Nos. 168 & 170 Congress St., Boston.
JOHN B. ALLEY, H. D. SWEETSER.
* * * * *
TOWNSEND, MALLARD & COWING,
AUCTIONEERS,
AND WHOLESALE DEALERS IN
BOOTS, SHOES & LEATHER.
AGENTS FOR THE WAX-THREAD SEWING MACHINE.
Nos. 45 & 47 Pearl St., Boston.
ELMER TOWNSEND, WARREN MALLARD, WALTER H. COWING.
ATHERTON, STETSON & CO.,
Manufacturers and Commission Merchants,
Boots, Shoes and Leather,
constantly on hand and for sale at lowest market prices. A. S. & Co. are the authorized AGENTS for New England States of the AMERICAN ELASTIC CLOTH CO.’S ELASTIC GORING, a new and superior article for
CONGRESS BOOTS.
34 PEARL STREET, BOSTON.
* * * * *
COCHRANE, KIMBALL & DIMICK,
Successors to Emerson, Cochrane & Co.,
Manufacturers and Wholesale Dealers in
BOOTS, SHOES & LEATHER,
Nos. 68 & 70 Pearl Street, Boston.
G. W. COCHRANE, AARON KIMBALL, (E. C. EMERSON, Special Partner,) J. C. DIMICK, J. T. SPALDING.
* * * * *
E. PACKARD,
(Formerly Holmes & Packard,)
Manufacturer of
Boot & Shoe, Sole & Upper Leather Cutters,
WESTBORO’, MASS.
Altering and Repairing done at short notice. Your orders are solicited.
* * * * *
S. R. SPAULDING & SON,
Hide, Leather and Commission Merchants,
78 PEARL STREET,
BOSTON.
* * * * *
FIELD, CONVERSE & CO.,
COMMISSION MERCHANTS, & DEALERS IN HIDES, LEATHER & OIL,
88 & 90 North Street, Boston.
J. FIELD, J. W. CONVERSE, J. B. WHALL, L. LITCHFIELD.
* * * * *
JAMES P. THORNDIKE,
COMMISSION MERCHANT, & DEALER IN HIDES, LEATHER & OIL,
93, 95 & 97 North Street, Boston,
* * * * *
WILLIAM TUTTLE,
WHOLESALE LEATHER DEALER,
WAX, AFRICAN KIP, SPLIT, &c.,
No. 8 Blackstone St., up-stairs, Boston.
* * * * *
N. SILVESTER,
Manufacturer of Boot and Shoe Patterns,
In all the different styles of this and other markets.
Manufacturers or others sending styles will please send the largest size of the set wanted. All patterns made from my standards, of which I have thousands, will be warranted to give satisfaction; if not, they may be exchanged for any other kind, if they are returned in good condition, and in a reasonable time. PLEASE GIVE ME A CALL AT
No. 8 Blackstone Street, Boston.
TERMS—CASH ON DELIVERY. Manufacturers and others sending by Expressmen for Patterns, will please remember my terms.
SEWING MACHINES.
EXPRESSLY FOR
SHOE MANUFACTURERS.
LADD, WEBSTER & CO.
Desire to call the attention of all who have occasion to sew Leather, to their very superior SEWING MACHINES, _intended expressly for that use_. All the new valuable improvements have been added to make the Sewing Machine sold by them the best, and in every respect most satisfactory of all that are adapted to manufacturer’s purposes. They make a strong lock stitch that cannot be =Ravelled or Pulled Out=. They stitch =Alike on Both Sides= of the work, without forming ridges underneath. They are _Perfectly Simple_, and the management of them easily acquired.
Any spool of Cotton, Thread or Silk sold at the stores, may be used without re-winding.
LADD, WEBSTER & Co’s.
FAMILY
Sewing Machines,
Are =Unrivalled for Simplicity, Durability, Beauty and ease of Operation.=
Let Manufacturers, Planters, Farmers, Housekeepers, or any other persons in search of an instrument to execute any kind of sewing now done by machinery, make sure they secure the best, by examining ours before purchasing.
LADD, WEBSTER & Co.,
SUCCESSORS TO HUNT, WEBSTER & Co.,
Cor. Essex & Lincoln Sts., Boston, 469 Broadway, N. Y.
MOSES HUNT & CO.,
AGENTS FOR THE SALE OF
A. RICHARDSON’S PATENT UNION
LEATHER SPLITTING MACHINES,
Also, Dealers in Leather, Tanners’ and Curriers’ Tools, &c.
No. 60 Blackstone St., Boston, & 36 Spruce St., New York.
LEATHER CUTTING MACHINES.
THE SUBSCRIBERS CONTINUE TO MANUFACTURE
Sole Cutting and Stripping Machines,
with all the latest improvements, which they warrant on all kinds of work. These machines have been thoroughly tested, and have been preferred, in every case, over all others in use, as they do not get out of order, or break down, are easily managed, cut quicker, and with less noise than any other.
ORDERS by mail, with suitable reference in Lynn or Boston, promptly attended to. Full instructions to operate sent with every machine.
SECOND HAND MACHINES, in good order, for sale cheap. All kinds of Machines repaired, and satisfaction guaranteed.
KNOX & DITCHBURN,
8 Market Street, Lynn, Mass.
Goodyear Shoe Association.
CIRCULAR.
This Association, recently formed, desire to acquaint the public with the causes which resulted in the combination known by the style of the “=Goodyear Shoe Association=.”
During the years 1857 and 1858, the financial crisis was keenly felt by the India Rubber Shoe interest, in common with other branches of trade. The troubles experienced by the manufacturers of Rubbers were greatly enhanced from the non-uniformity in prices and discounts, between the various agencies. This absence of a regular tariff was productive of distrust in the purchasers and great embarrassment in the trade.
Some method of action whereby these disturbing causes and effects could be reconciled, and harmony of action, and confidence in the stability of the prices asked for goods be restored, was deemed of the utmost importance.
To this end the several legalized Companies in the United States, manufacturing Boots and Shoes under Goodyear’s Patent, agreed upon a basis of action, and effected a consolidation, the principal points of which are—
_First._ The establishment of two branch agencies, through one or the other of which all goods manufactured by the Companies must pass.
_Second._ By limiting the manufacture of goods so that the market shall not be overstocked; but, so far as can be arrived at, the supply and demand shall be equal.
_Third._ The establishment of a uniform tariff of prices and rate of discount.
AGENTS.
WALES, EMMONS & Co., _66 Pearl St., Boston_.
BREDEN & SOUTHWICK, _107 & 109 Liberty St., New York_.
N. N. HALSTEAD, PRESIDENT,
E. S. CONVERSE, SECRETARY.
UNITED STATES
AND
Foreign Patent Agency.
SAMUEL COOPER,
LATE PRINCIPAL EXAMINER OF PATENTS IN THE UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE AT WASHINGTON.
Office, Webster Building, No. 13 Exchange Street,
BOSTON.
PATENTS procured in the United States, and in all other patent granting countries. SPECIFICATIONS and DRAWINGS prepared. CAVEATS filed. RECONSIDERATIONS procured, of applications that have been rejected upon imperfectly prepared papers. INTERFERENCES prosecuted. RE-ISSUES and EXTENSIONS procured.
Those unacquainted with him are referred to following testimonials:
_From the_ Hon. CHARLES MASON, _Commissioner of Patents_.
U. S. PATENT OFFICE, _Feb. 28, 1855_.
“I take great pleasure in stating that during the time I have been acting as Commissioner of Patents, Samuel Cooper, Esq., of Boston, has been engaged as solicitor, and has been engaged in that capacity in constant correspondence and intercourse with the office; he has evinced a thorough acquaintance with Patent Law, and with the rules and practice of the Office, a close attention to the interests of his clients, and a marked candor and courtesy that has rendered the transaction of business with him a pleasure. I have no hesitation in stating that I regard him as one of the very best agents for the transaction of business with this Office, with whom I am acquainted.
CHARLES MASON, _Commissioner_.”
_From the_ EXAMINERS _in the_ PATENT OFFICE.
“The undersigned, Principal and Assistant Examiners in the United States Patent Office, have for several years been well acquainted with Mr. Samuel Cooper, lately a Principal Examiner in this Office, and take pleasure in stating that he is a gentleman of the highest moral character, of unquestioned knowledge in the business and practice of the Office, and that his scientific attainments are such as eminently fit him for the business in which he is about to engage.”
HENRY B. RENWICK, } L. D. GALE, } Principal J. H. LANE, } Examiners.
T. R. PEALE, } THOS. T. EVERETT, } Assistant P. SOUTHGATE SMITH,} Examiners. WILLIAM C. LANGDON,}
“From long acquaintance, and intimate official relations with Mr. Cooper, I fully and heartily concur in the foregoing recommendation made by my late colleagues.”
WM. P. N. FITZGERALD, _late Principal Examiner of Patents_
GENTLEMEN’S
Boot and Shoe Emporium,
NO. 10 SCHOOL STREET.
ISRAEL M. RICE, Proprietor.
This Establishment, of thirteen years’ standing, has long since become the popular resort for gentlemen who desire first class Boots, Shoes and Gaiters. I import, very largely,
French Boats, Shoes and Gaiters,
from the well known manufactories of GAN & FORR, and other equally celebrated makers. I also make to measure, all styles of work, from the choicest French Stock, of my own importation.
I employ none but scientific workmen, and all goods from my establishment are warranted equal to the best.
ISRAEL M. RICE, No. 10 School Street.
JENKINS’ PRESSES AND HEATERS.
JENKINS’ PATENT PRESSES AND HEATERS, for making Cemented Boots and Shoes, are manufactured at Lynn, Mass., where may be found Presses and Heaters in practical operation, and for sale, of any required form or size, made under the immediate attention of the Patentee, who will attend to putting them up in person, and will give the manufacturer his assistance in preparing and making the various Cements, and their proper application, in making any form of Boot or Shoe, together with his practical application of Gutta Percha to Boots and Shoes for the last nine years, including his experience in making and using, for a number of months at Ballardvale.
The Steam Lasts, invented and patented by Mr. Charles Rice and the late Syranus H. Wharf, there also may be seen a full set of Steam Lasts for making Boots and Shoes, according to said patents.
Any further information respecting the Presses or Heaters can be obtained by addressing
THOMAS P. BANCROFT, Lynn, Mass.
LASTS AND BOOT TREES.
SAMUEL COX & SONS,
Manufacturers of every description of
LASTS AND BOOT TREES.
FOR LEATHER WORK OF ALL KINDS.
ALSO FOR
INDIA RUBBER BOOTS AND SHOES,
all of which are manufactured from the best of Stock, _thoroughly seasoned_.
Orders answered with promptness and seasonable despatch. The Last Manufactory of Cox and Sons is one of the oldest in the United States. The Manufactory is located at Malden, Mass.
Office, 92 Pearl Street, Boston.
* * * * *
THREADS, LINEN, COTTON & SILK,
FOR EVERY DESCRIPTION OF
SEWING MACHINES.
SHOE THREAD, SADLERS’ do GILLING do MARSHALL’S do CABLE THREADS, SEA ISLAND COTTON, ERMAN’S DIAMOND do PHILLIP’S WAXED do
Also, TWINE of every variety.
ROSS & PEARCE,
No. 7 Liberty Square, Boston, Mass.
* * * * *
AGENT FOR LICENSES.
=CHARLES RICE=, 84 Pearl Street, Boston, is the Agent for the NORTH AMERICAN PATENT BOOT AND SHOE CO. for granting LICENCES for the manufacture of CEMENTED BOOTS AND SHOES under Tyer & Helm’s Patent, allusion to which is made in this work. =Terms 2½= per cent.
RUBBER AND GUTTA PERCHA
SHOE FINDINGS,
VARIOUS RUBBER FABRICS & ARTICLES.
MATTSON & CO.,
Proprietors of the Roxbury Rubber Factory,
Are prepared to manufacture the following new articles required for the CEMENTED BOOTS and SHOES, which are creating a new era in the Shoe business:
=Gutta Percha and Rubber Cements.=
=Counters or Stiffenings=, of any required compound.
=Water-Proof linings= for the Uppers, superior to and cheaper than Oiled Silk.
=Water-Proof Middle Soling= suited to pegged or sewed Boots or Shoes, (a most desirable article.)
=Gutta Percha Inner Soling= of any required thickness or compound, spread on cloth or otherwise.
=Crude Gutta Percha= cleaned and rolled into thin sheets, suitable for making Cements.
ALSO ON HAND THE ORDINARY
RUBBER SOLING,
adapted in thickness to a lady’s slipper or a heavy boot, with Boxes of CEMENT for putting on the same.
☞ We also manufacture the cheapest RUBBER COATS in the United States, as well as those of the finest quality; UNDER-SHEETING for the protection of Beds; Piano, Melodeon and Table Covers; Air Beds, Pillows and Cushions, &c. Dr. Mattson’s ELASTIC SYRINGES, to which Four Silver Medals had been awarded.
MATTSON & CO., No. 1 Tremont Temple, Boston.
BOSWORTH’S
$25 SEWING MACHINE.
This machine is decidedly the best in the market for FAMILY USE, and is warranted to sew on every fabric with cotton or silk on the original spools; it will not drop stitches nor get out of order: no charge made for repairs. It is the most simple and perfect machine ever invented, and the inventor feels confident that all who purchase it will find what they have long sought, _a perfect and reliable Machine at the low price of_ =TWENTY-FIVE DOLLARS=.
Reference will be given to parties wishing to purchase, to many families who have the machine in practical use, which is the only true test by which a purchaser can be sure of obtaining a good machine.
All orders addressed to the subscriber will meet with prompt attention. Agents will be supplied with machines at a liberal discount, and towns secured to them. Only one Agent will be appointed in a place; preference being given to the best location. ☞ All letters must be addressed to the subscriber.
L. STETSON, Agent, No. 3 Tremont Row, (Up Stairs,) Op. Head of Hanover St.
UPPER PATTERNS,
PROPORTIONED BY MACHINERY.
After long experience in the LAST and PATTERN BUSINESS, I have accomplished that which has hitherto been considered an impossibility, viz., Drawing and Proportioning correctly, sets of
BOOT AND SHOE PATTERNS,
of all sizes, from _one_ model by machinery, giving each piece its proportioned size and shape. For full description and illustration, see Diagrams on pages 81 to 88, _inclusive_.
The machine is used by B. F. Parrott, No. 4 Exchange St., Boston, to whom all orders for patterns should be addressed.
Also on hand, a large assortment of BOOT and SHOE MODELS, from which he will manufacture Patterns from Paper, Pasteboard or Zinc. Pasteboard bound with Brass. Also Patterns copied from any Boot or Shoe which may be sent as a model.
I am also manufacturing WOMEN’S, MISSES’ and CHILDREN’S LASTS and PATTERNS to correspond with, and fit the patterns above referred to, by which means the Boot and Shoe manufacturing is still further facilitated.
Further information may be obtained by applying to
G. W. PARROTT,
Mechanic Steam Mills, Broad St., Lynn, Mass.
The Patterns above referred to are used by the principal Manufacturers in this city and vicinity.
ONE PRICE SHOE STORE.
LAMKIN & GREENE,
COOLIDGE BUILDING, OPPOSITE REVERE HOUSE,
BOSTON,
KEEP CONSTANTLY ON HAND
FRENCH & AMERICAN BOOTS & SHOES,
Of the most fashionable styles, which they offer at the lowest prices.
☞BOOTS AND SHOES MADE TO ORDER,☜
J. H. GREENE. G. LAMKIN.
* * * * *
R. & F. KNOTT,
LADIES SHOEMAKERS,
16 SCHOOL STREET,
BOSTON.
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
1. P. 164, changed “from about $300 to $36.00 profit” to “from about $3.00 to $36.00 profit”. 2. Silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling. 3. Retained anachronistic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings as printed. 4. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. 5. Enclosed bold font in =equals=.