CHAPTER III.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE Manufacture of French Custom Boots, Shoes, and Gaiters.

BY FREDERICK LAUGENBECK.

First, place the foot to be measured upon a sheet of white paper. Mark around the foot with a long pencil, being careful to hold it in a perpendicular position. Next, take the circumference across the ball and instep with a tape measure. Next measure the heel and calf.

For calf boots, the boot must be one-fourth of an inch _wider_ on the _heel_ than the _foot_, and the _ankle_ one-fourth of an inch _less_ than the _heel_ measure.

CALF-LIKE MEASURE OF THE LEG.—LAST MEASURE.

The last must be one and one-half of a size _longer_ than the foot, and as wide as the widest part of the foot.

For stubb toes, the last should be _one_ size longer.

Proper allowance should be made for corns. Place a round knob made of leather, or any other suitable substance, on the last, just the size of the corn, or enlargement, on one or both sides of the last, according to circumstances.

The _instep_ must be one-eighth of an inch _less_ than measure.

For a sound, healthy foot, make the last one-fourth of an inch _less_ on the _ball_, and three-eighths of an inch less on the _instep_.

Patent leather boots, around the ankle must be _full with the measure_ as the stitches _contract_.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR LASTING BOOTS.

If a boot is well cut, and _not_ properly lasted, the boot _will not fit_.

Soak the counters well in water. Paste between _each_.

Draw the uppers _smoothly_ over the last, as _tightly_ as the leather _will bear_.

In drawing the uppers over the last, the counter should be left about _half way_ into its place or position.

After the uppers are well lasted over the ball, then _drive_ the heel last _down to its place_.

Now commence to last the boot in the _shank_; _smooth either side alternately, towards the toe_, until it fits _smoothly_.

_Remarks._—Judgment should always be used in the manufacture of boots or shoes for _tender feet_. No _specific_ directions can be given; the good sense and discretion of the artizan will suggest such modifications of the rules as the case requires. The instructions given concerning “corns,” will usually correct the difficulty, but in cases of _general tenderness_ of the feet, the alterations must be made _throughout_.

Around the _heel_, the _patent leather boot_ should be three-eighths of an inch _larger_ than is the _calf boot_.

SHOES.

The _last_ should be two sizes _longer_ than the foot in order to secure comfort. The reason is obvious; the _foot works farther into the shoe_, than in the boot.

The last, at the instep, should be as wide as the foot, because the stitching _contracts_ the leather; otherwise the shoe will cause great discomfort. The shoe should be made one-fourth of an inch _less_ than measure across the ball of the foot.

GAITER BOOTS.

The last should be made the _same_ as for calf-skin boots, whether patent leather, or _other_ material.

PREPARATION OF STOCK.

Soak the leather well in water. Remove all the fleshy substance, from stock of every description.

Draw the in-sole well over the last. Let it remain until _nearly_ dry. Hammer the in-sole after removal. Next, cut the in-sole as required; by the sole thus prepared, cut the other sole.

The remainder of the stock should be _nearly_ dry before cutting up.

TO PREVENT SQUEAKING.

Ruff the soles with a rasp, then paste between them. Put every piece comprising the heel on _separately_, rasp _every_ lift, and paste as before.