CHAPTER II.
HINTS AND INSTRUCTIONS ON CUTTING PATTERN FOR BOOTS AND SHOES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.
It is well known to all shoe manufacturers, that great difficulty and trouble is constantly arising for the lack of some _standard system of measurement_, which shall enable the workman who is dependent simply upon his own unaided labors for a livelihood, or the manufacturer who employs many “hands,” to _cut out their own patterns_. As it now is, there are “pattern cutters” to whom the workman must apply for his sizes and patterns, thereby subjecting him to expense and loss of time. In order that all obstacles of that nature may be obviated and a reliable system or plan of cutting patterns be introduced, we herewith submit a system for cutting diagrams, or patterns of boots and shoes. The plan is _simple_, _scientific_, _correct_. For those whose experience has been limited, this method will be a perfect key to the mysteries of pattern cutting. The great desideratum with all boot and shoe makers, is to construct a neat, comfortable, well-fitting boot or shoe, so that in all cases they shall fit the _foot_. This can only be done by having the last made to fit the foot properly, and the upper cut to fit the last. Boots and shoes are usually cut, and lasts are made, to suit the eye, the fancy, whims, or traditions of manufacturers, as they are the responsible parties, as from them all “orders” emanate. Ask the manufacturer why the lasts are made crooked on the bottom—why hollow the shanks equally on both sides—why make a hollow on the outside of the last affect a fulness on the foot—why make the inner ball _straight_, when in the _foot_ it is always _round_. No satisfactory answer can be given. Are these unnatural deformities required to make a well fitting boot or shoe? Why not make the last the _natural_ shape, and let the shank remain firm and solid? If the last is made in perfect conformity to the foot, all parts of the boot or shoe would then remain in their proper positions, natural and easy to the foot. So far as our observation extends, there is no established principle in constructing lasts, as there is no conformity as a general thing, to the shape of the foot. This fault does not attach to the last maker, but to those who order them.
As a rule, we may say, all lasts should be made nearly straight on the bottom. The ball on both sides should be equally distant from a longitudinal line drawn from the centre of the toes to the centre of the heel.
As the foot indicates, the inner shank should be formed by rounding it from behind the large toe ball, and near it and forward to the heel seat, and two-thirds across it, passing the centre of the last, leaving the outside shank _full_ and _properly rounded_ to fit the foot. All parts of the last should conform to the shape and thickness of the foot. For ladies’ lasts, the spring of the toes and bottom of the last should be so concave as to give perfect ease and rest to the foot when standing, as seen in Fig. No. 1. No. 2. represents a last in common use; the upward course from the centre of the heel to the back portion of the heel, places it on an inclined plane, thus _always pressing the foot forward_, and pinching the toes, until from continuous pressure, the heel seat gives way and the stitches or pegs start at every step. For ladies’ high-heeled boots, see Fig. No. 3. By the horizontal and perpendicular line of the last, as represented, the foot is at rest. The slight curve prevents the foot from pressing forward, at the same time the elastic takes its proper position, thus allowing the boot to be drawn on with ease, and to be worn with comfort.
No. 4. represents a boot once very much in use, and even at the present, frequently seen. The wearer stands and walks, it will be observed, _upon an inclined plane_.
Every step presses the foot forward, causing the shoe to slip up at the heel, and always crowding the front portion of the foot and toes into a most uncomfortable position. Thus causing great pressure on the upper portion of the foot; if the foot is of a side-lace cut, the lacings are strained, torn, or broken by the continued efforts of the foot to bring the upper, and sole, to the _natural_ position of the foot. Shoes thus cut, and made on such lasts are almost invariably bent in the shank in order to conceal the ignorance of the manufacturer or designer. But the foot is sure to betray the deformity of the last and the cut of the uppers. Boots and shoes thus made are literally spoiled, unless the wearer can keep the ankle _back_ to an angle of forty or forty-five degrees, which is the position of the foot when thrown forward, while in a sitting position.
No. 5. represents a side view of a lady’s last for high-heeled boots, and its block. The blocks are changed to give any desired fulness on the same lasts. The blocks are represented in Nos. 1, 2, 3. Mr. John Kimball first invented and introduced them to the public in 1827. Since that period they have continued in general use, giving the most perfect satisfaction both in style and comfort. The _practical utility_ of Mr. Kimball’s system is of the highest importance to the shoe dealer and manufacturer. It is equally clear that the same system should be adopted for mens’ and boys’ lasts so as to indicate the dimensions of boots or shoes by the use of a single letter of the alphabet. The mechanical part of the above mentioned system has been performed in a very faithful and workman-like manner by Mr. Joshua Hitchings, of Boston, Mass. The letters used by Mr. Kimball to indicate the width of soles and lasts are, A B C D E F. If a wider last is wanted it would be called G.
In taking the measures of the foot, the tailors’ tape is the best, as it is non-elastic. Great care should always be used in taking measurements. In taking the length of the foot, it should rest evenly upon the size-stick, the weight of the body being about equal in its position. In taking the measure for the heel, place the end of the tape on the curve of the instep, and pass it around the end of the heel back to the centre or starting point; then place the end of the tape about three-fourths of an inch forward of the curve of the instep, pass it over the prominence of the foot, entirely around it; next place the tape on the ball of the large toe, pass it over the ball of the small toe around to starting point. These are the common measurements. Sometimes deformities of the foot require variations on account of corns, etc.
FITTING UP LASTS TO THE MEASUREMENTS OF THE FOOT.
For children, and youths, cut and fit them up full to the measure, and in some cases fuller. For boys and misses, fit full. For ladies fit closely, and be guided by the foot, rather than the fashion, or what is termed “style;” fit the heel full, the instep half an inch _less_ than the measure, and most of the other measures one-quarter of an inch less. For Oxfordties, fit them one-quarter of an inch less than measure; the same for shoes with long quarters. For short quarters, as brogans, &c., fit over the instep full in order to produce ease. For coarse boots fit up _full_ to all parts of the measure; for kip boots if thin, one-quarter of an inch _less_ than the measure, but in all cases be guided by the hardness and thickness of the upper. In gentlemen’s fine boots, for all parts, let taste and fashion be your guide in length, toes, &c. Fit the heel up full to the measure, and all other parts snugly to the foot; be guided by flexibility or hardness of the foot, making all due allowance for tender parts, corns, callouses, or rolling of the small toes, and fulness of great toe joints, by fitting a piece on the last in the proper position and shape, to correspond to the variations as above.
CUTTING BOOT PATTERNS.
Opinions concerning the cutting of boots are very numerous. There seems to be little or no uniformity in the system of cutting. Mr. S. C. Shire, of Bloomsbury, Pa., received a patent for a boot-drafting, cutting, blocking machine, which patent bears date August 14th, 1847. It has received the approbation of the Southern and Western manufacturers, and has been adopted as a guide by them. Many of our own manufacturers have also adopted it. It operates with ease and accuracy, and is easily adjusted to any size.
As the process of boot cutting is very simple, many manufacturers cut by the eye. The apparatus alluded to will assist all who are commencing the business. Have the last agree with the foot in every part, then cut the boot-upper to fit the last, so that in lasting, it will come over the last easily and smoothly without straining, as all such pressure is an actual damage to the boot. Most boot-uppers are not crimped but jammed and crushed into their position. The crimping is of great importance and should be done with care. The crimp should agree in its form to the last in all its upper curves; then, when cut properly and fitted, it will last over smoothly and all parts will adapt themselves to their proper position, thereby preventing all friction, which is the origin of corns, and the various diseases of the foot. It is absolutely necessary that the measures be taken with great accuracy, and the _last fit the measure_, and the boot cut to fit the last, and all parts of the work _done well_, then the wearer will enjoy the luxury of a closely fitting boot, without any of the painful results which are usually consequent upon wearing new boots. The great secret of the ease, comfort, and elegance of a French boot is its _perfect conformity to nature_. The _style_ of a boot is simply a matter of fancy. The boot-trees should more nearly imitate the natural limb, and not present that extreme swelled appearance, as many do, thus causing the side seam to burst out. Make the top of the boot leg slightly larger than the heel measurement as a general rule, and add to or diminish from it, as the instep is high or low. In some cases of high instep more room is wanted, consequently more leather in the instep; this is obtained by cutting the upper fuller at the _bottom_.
All lasts should be made with blocks, and high combs, for all kinds of boots or shoes, as thus the uppers are kept smooth, in good shape, and clean.
There is much confusion in the _length_ of boots and shoes. This is caused by the manufacturers using the size sticks in common use, which are incorrect. Thus shoes marked fives, are made on a four and a half last; a five last should be made just ten inches long, and all below that should vary just one-third of an inch to each size, and all sizes _above_ five should be subject to the same variation.
WOMEN’S LASTS.
Marked 2 is 9 inches long. Marked 3 9⅓ inches long Marked 4 9⅔ inches long Marked 5 10 inches long Marked 6 10⅓ inches long Marked 7 10⅔ inches long Marked 8 11 inches long
BOYS’ LASTS.
Marked 1 is 8⅔ inches long. Marked 2 9 inches long Marked 3 9⅓ inches long Marked 4 9⅔ inches long Marked 5 10 inches long
MEN’S LASTS.
Marked 5 is 10 inches long. Marked 6 10⅓ inches long Marked 7 10⅔ inches long Marked 11 12 inches long Marked 12 12⅓ inches long Marked 13 12⅔ inches long Marked 14 13 inches long
The width of mens’ lasts on the bottom, vary _one-twelfth_ of an inch for each size, and _three-twelfths_ of an inch over the instep for each size. A man’s ten last of a good fulness measures across the ball three and three-eighths inches; across the heel two and five-eighths, and in the same proportions of fulness; the five’s last measure across the ball three inches, and the heel two and three-eighths, and the same proportions of fulness should for a ten’s last, girt ten and one-half inches over the instep, and the five’s should girt nine and one-quarter inches. A ten’s vamp for men’s Oxford-tie, measures across its extreme points, _nine_ inches; five’s vamp, _eight_ inches. Draw a line across from one extreme point to the other, and six and seven-eighths inches of that line will give the length for the ten’s vamp, and six inches will give the length for the five’s vamp. Five and one-half inches will be the proper length for the base line of a ten’s quarter; five inches for the five’s quarter; the quarter at the back of a ten’s upper is three and one-half inches high; the five’s quarter is three and one-sixteenth inches high. Draw a line from the front point of the quarter, to the top of the heel line on the quarter, and eight and one-quarter inches gives its length, and seven and one-quarter the length for the five’s; the front base line for the ten’s is three and three-eighths of an inch long, the five’s three inches long. Draw a line perpendicular from the base of the ten’s quarter to the top point, and five and one-eighths inches will give its height; four and five-eighths will be the height for the five’s quarter. Draw a line on the upper, after it is closed from the centre of the toes, to the top of the quarter, and also to the heel, and its length will be twelve and seven-eighths. On a ten’s last it is eleven and five-eighths full. The upper when _folded_ and _pressed_ together, will be three and one-half sizes _larger_ than the last.
The width of Mr. Kimball’s seven F last across the ball is three and one-eighth inches; width of heel two and one-sixteenth inches. The A’s seven last across the ball is two and one half-inches, the heel two and three-sixteenths. By this it will be seen that his system for varying the width of his lasts, is _one-eighth_ of an inch for _each_ size across the _ball_, and _one-sixteenth_ of an inch across the _heel_. With his three marked C, M, F,[1] &c., you have three degrees of fulness for each last, making it the most convenient system in use. The upper of A. No. 6 ladies’ shoe, should measure eight and five-eighths inches over the highest part of the instep; the No. 2 should measure seven and seven-eighths and one-sixteenth, over the same part. In this manner, the variation for each size is _one-twelfth_ of an inch on _each_ side of the vamp; this is the same variation as in the men’s uppers.
Footnote 1:
C—common; M—medium; F—full.
Children and misses shoes can all be arranged on the same system of diagrams. Every Boot and Shoe manufacturer and maker, should have _full_ sets of patterns. By having a pattern of each size and style, there is no waste of time in drafting. The patterns can be easily and correctly altered or varied to meet any emergency that may arise. It is not safe to trust to the eye as it is liable to mistakes.
By following the directions here given, together with the instructions already laid down, any person of common capacity and ordinary ingenuity, can cut a full set of patterns for _any_ description of boot or shoe required.
COMMON OR MEDIUM PROPORTIONS OF FEET.
MEN’S SIZES.
_Size._ _Length of foot._ _Heel measure._ _Over the instep._ 6 10⅓ inches. 12½ inches. 9¼ inches. 7 10⅔ inches. 12½ inches. 9⅜ inches. 8 11 inches. 13 inches. 9⅜ inches. 9 11⅓ inches. 13½ inches. 9⅞ inches. 10 11⅔ inches. 14 inches. 10¼ inches. 11 12 inches. 14½ inches. 10½ inches.
LADIES’ SIZES.
_Size._ _Length of foot._ _Heel measure._ _Over the instep._ 3 9⅓ inches. 11¼ inches. 8½ inches. 4 9⅔ inches. 11½ inches. 8¾ inches. 5 10 inches. 11⅞ inches. 9 inches. 6 10⅓ inches. 12 inches. 9¼ inches. 7 10⅔ inches. 12⅛ inches. 9¼ inches.
BOYS’ SIZES.
_Size._ _Length of foot._ _Heel measure._ _Over the instep._ 1 8⅔ inches. 10½ inches. 7⅞ inches. 2 9 inches. 11¼ inches. 8¼ inches. 3 9⅓ inches. 11½ inches. 8⅞ inches. 4 9⅔ inches. 12 inches. 8⅝ inches. 5 10 inches. 12¼ inches. 8⅞ inches.
YOUTHS’ SIZES.
_Size._ _Length of foot._ _Heel measure._ _Over the instep._ 9 7 inches. 8¾ inches. 6½ inches. 10 7⅓ inches. 9 inches. 6¾ inches. 11 7⅔ inches. 9¼ inches. 7 inches. 12 8 inches. 9½ inches. 7¼ inches. 13 8⅓ inches. 10 inches. 7½ inches.
MISSES LASTS.
_Size._ _Length of foot._ _Heel measure._ _Over the instep._ 10 7⅓ inches. 10 inches. 6⅔ inches. 11 7⅔ inches. 10⅓ inches. 6⅚ inches. 12 8 inches. 10⅔ inches. 7 inches. 13 8⅓ inches. 11 inches. 7⅙ inches. 1 8⅔ inches. 11⅓ inches. 7⅓ inches. 2 9 inches. 11⅔ inches. 7½ inches.
C LASTS.
All Children’s Lasts should always be made _Block Lasts_.
_Size._ _Length of foot._ _Heel measure._ _Over the instep._ 10 7⅓ inches. 10 inches. 6⅔ inches. 9 7 inches. 9⅔ inches. 6½ inches. 8 6⅔ inches. 9⅓ inches. 6⅓ inches. 7 6⅓ inches. 9 inches. 6⅙ inches. 6 6 inches. 8⅔ inches. 6 inches. 5 5⅔ inches. 8⅓ inches. 5⅚ inches. 4 5⅓ inches. 8 inches. 5⅔ inches. 3 5 inches. 7⅔ inches. 5½ inches. 2 4⅔ inches. 7⅓ inches. 5⅓ inches. 1 4⅓ inches. 7 inches. 5⅙ inches. 0 4 inches. 6⅔ inches. 5 inches.
_Remarks._—The _toes_ of the smallest sizes of children’s lasts should be made _two_ sizes _wider_ proportionately, than the largest size, i. e., one-sixth of an inch, as the small foot is _wide_ and _soft_, requiring more room for its expansion. Thus the practical advantages to be derived, by cutting the patterns by the _packed diagram_ principle, (No. 8,) are made clear, as the foot of a child grows faster in _length_ than in _width_.
By the foregoing scale the length of the foot and other measurements in inches, and all shoes from the smallest child’s to men’s elevens, are obtained, and by following the same rule, smaller or larger sizes may be cut.
By having all lasts, diagrams, and patterns, made by the scale, and all proportions of fulness of lasts regularly graded, making the children’s much the _fullest_ in _width_, owing to the greater degree of roundness of the foot, and wider in proportion, on account of rapid growth. In preparing patterns for children, due allowance must be made for the increasing _fulness_ of the _ankle_. The same caution is applicable to misses, but not to so great a degree.
No. 6 is the side view of a gaiter boot upper, with last and block, giving the “pitch” line, concerning which there is quite a diversity of opinion, also the heel line, instep, waist and toes.
By measuring the instep of a foot with callippers, one half of the distance gives the centre. Then take the thickness of the large toe in the same manner and half the thickness gives the centre; then draw a line from that to the instep centre—carry the line a short distance beyond, to where the callippers strike the bottom of the foot just in front of the heel, and the end of the last, (as seen by a dotted line in the centre) whatever “pitch” you may give the toes. The “pitch” is governed by the height of the heel as seen in No. 3. Boot cutters make it a convenient practice to draw from that centre, a perpendicular line in order to give the centre of the boot leg at the top, and all is governed by the height of the heel.
By a little attention to the front line (No. 7,) will be seen, the true shape of a boot form or crimp, and the back line, the boot properly treed; the centre line, the seam. By passing the eye up the instep measure line, at the top is seen the curve that the fulness represents. That curve, or line, from the toes to the ankle line is carried in, or out, as the heel measure may determine. By having a pattern of that curved line, from the toes to the ankle line, all the variety of fulness is obtained, as is readily seen.
The ankle measure in many cases, is three-eighths of an inch shorter in a direct line than the heel line; that is, when these lines are _doubled_, as seen in No. 7.
Having a pattern of that curve line from the ankle to the toes, of all styles and varieties of boots and shoes, by moving it out in the same direction as the heel measure, to the instep, one-twelfth of an inch, (as that is a size) as seen in Mr. Parrott’s diagram for cutting uppers; that makes it a size fuller and _vice versa_. As that curved line remains the same through all the sizes, by having that pattern, and one side of it properly curved, for the heel line, and a portion of the same for the bottom line or curve, and those lines properly divided off and numbered, for each size of any desired design, by that pattern _all sizes_ may be cut with ease and accuracy. Some have their several patterns fitted for the varieties of shoes they wish to manufacture. For custom work, they are very convenient. As the measure of the foot is the proper guide, draw the bottom line, then the heel, giving it the position desired for the shoe or boot, then the width of the toes, observing their elevation, as the shoe may be heeled or not. Then apply the heel measure; draw the instep line from the toes to the ankle, draw a line for, or _from_ the toes and ankle, and you have the desired result.
Some cutters draw only one instep curve line, and make one-third of a size allowance for the length on the heel, and two-thirds of a size on the toes, for each size, and one-twelfth of an inch on the bottom at the heel, and a little more on the toes. It produces about the same result, regulating the height of the quarter by the same heel scale, as fancy may dictate.
In 1832, we made the first full set of diagram patterns that we ever used; since that time the principle has spread from Maine to the far West, and a change has been wrought in the manufacture of shoes by machinery that causes the old-fashioned manufacturers to blush at the reflection that new tools, new machines, new ideas, have been introduced successfully, in spite of their determined opposition. But it must be confessed that a great proportion of the machines and tools now in general use, are exceedingly imperfect. Most of the really important improvements that have been made, are the products of that class of mechanics who have brains, but shallow pockets. The ideal must always precede the actual, and the poor shoemaker who conceives an idea that his superior genius discovers to be really practical, is too often regarded as an idle dreamer, and the old adage is at once applied, “_Ne sutor ultra crepidam_”—no shoemaker should go beyond his last.
The science of shoe manufacturing is yet to be greatly changed and improved. There is, in our opinion, no branch of the mechanic arts more susceptible of improvement than this; we mean in the process of manufacture, none that admits of more machinery and tools. All parts of the stock can be cut and fitted by machinery, far superior to the hand methods. The rounding of pump out-soles, feather edging, the pricking of holes or stitches, all in-soles for welted boots or shoes, can be fitted precisely alike. All this work should be done by the “Boss” before the work is distributed to the workmen, then, of course, the shape of the shoe and edges would present a uniform appearance.
The foregoing suggestions may be questioned by those who have little perception and less knowledge, but nevertheless, the march of progress will surely witness factories arranged with perfected machinery, so that all parts of the work will be done under the supervision of skilful and practical workmen. By improved processes of manufacture, boots and shoes will be made durable and firm as the stock will admit, and the finish will far exceed that now produced by the ordinary methods, while those who take the lead in the market, by the facilities they possess, will be able to introduce and form the prevailing styles or fashions. There are many obvious advantages which readily suggest themselves, to be gained by the introduction of improved machinery which we have not space to enumerate.
In collecting the “Hint’s and Facts,” here presented, we have carefully considered the subject, and examined those tools and machinery that are now in general use in this country; also the drawings of many and various machines, tools, etc., that have been published in England and France. From these sources, and our general observations, experiments, etc., we are fully convinced that the day is not far distant when marked and beneficial changes will be successfully introduced into this all-important branch of the mechanic arts. We will here remark, that in conversation with very many of our most energetic and leading shoe manufacturers, we have found the most sanguine believers in the various improvements suggested. New and improved machinery for sewed, pegged and cemented work; cements for rubber compounds, gutta-percha and chemical unions, are now being successfully introduced, together with new tanning combinations, all of which are yet to take a prominent and important place in the manufacture of boots and shoes.