CHAPTER I.

PREPARATION OF STOCK.

In the preparation of the leather for outer soles, after it has been stripped up in the common form, remove all the loose flesh by skiving or splitting, or any other process. The stock should be thoroughly dry. Then raise a thick and even fibre on the flesh side, (_remembering always, that the adhesive quality is in proportion to the thickness of the fibre_) with a common card or rasp, or other convenient tool. The cement should be applied hot, with a coarse paint brush, as evenly as possible, then expose the leather to dry air a day or two, in order to allow the solvent to evaporate. If the first coat is too thin, apply a second in the same manner, until the leather is well coated. Then the leather should be again exposed, as before, until completely dry. It may then be wet in water, in the _usual_ form, until properly tempered or prepared. The leather is then in a condition to be rolled, or hammered. If hammered it should be _first_ cut up into soles. If rolled it may be placed in a cutting machine, and cut up in the usual form. Sole leather is cut to the best advantage by hands with the proper patterns, or “dies.” After the soles are properly rounded to the desired pattern, for all thin edged work the cement should be featheredged, from the edge of the sole at a proper distance, in order to secure a good finish. This process prevents the cement from adhering or sticking to the upper, when the sole is pressed on.

MIDDLE SOLES, AND SPUR, OR SPRING LIFTS.

After they have been properly fitted, ready for use as in the common form, the parts should be dried and a thick fibre raised, as before described for the outer sole, only that a fibre should be raised on _both sides_, as will be readily understood. Cement on _both_ sides. This process may be done before cutting into soles or lifts, at the option of the manufacturer.

TO PREPARE IN-SOLES.

Cut from thin leather skirting or shavings. After properly fitting to the pattern or last, the edges of the in-sole should be reduced to a proper thickness. A strong fibre should be raised on the side on which the cement is to be applied, the stock being previously dry. Then cement as before. One coat is sufficient if the cement is thick. If not, spread again upon the edge, as that portion of the sole should receive the thickest coating, for the purpose of holding, with great firmness the linings or upper, when lasted, as the shoe may require.

TO PREPARE COUNTERS OR STIFFENINGS.

After properly fitting and drying, cement on both sides of the _lower_ edges, corresponding to the cemented portion of the lining or “upper.”

PREPARATION OF STOCK FOR CLOTH SHOES.—PREPARATION OF THE UPPER STOCK.

First cement the linings on both sides entirely around, as far as they are to be drawn over the edge of the last. Then cement inside of upper, to correspond with the cemented portion of the linings. Place them in position for drying, so that the cement shall not be brought in contact with any _other part_ of the upper. In order to facilitate the cementing process, the uppers or linings, may be so packed or placed, the one upon the other, that large quantities may be cemented at the same time. This should be done before binding.

TO PREPARE UPPERS MADE OF ANY DESCRIPTION OF LEATHER, OR PART LEATHER AND CLOTH.

The linings, (if any are used), should be cemented as described for the cloth shoe. The inside of the leather portion or parts of the upper should be made as fibrous as possible. Then apply the cement as described for linings. When fully dry they are ready for lasting.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR LASTING.

The process of lasting is simple and may be done with great despatch, when all parts of the stock composing the shoe or boot are properly prepared, according to instructions. Tack the in-sole on the last, place it in the “Improved Heater,” or other drying apparatus, the heat being about 160° Fahrenheit, in which place the counter or stiffening. Allow it to remain in for two or three minutes, until the cement has softened somewhat. At the same time place the upper inside, or on the top of the “Heater.” Heat carefully, but slightly, until the cement becomes tacky. Then tack the inner sole on the last, on which place the upper. Last over the linings, put on the counter, press over evenly, then draw the upper over neatly and smoothly to its proper position. Great care must be observed in lasting over the lining or upper, to remove all unevenness. On cloth uppers, all the superfluous stock around the heel and toe, may be removed with scissors, on leather uppers with a knife in the usual form. At the same time press, rub, or hammer each part that it may be retained firmly and evenly in its proper position. If the uppers are small, tacks may be used to hold each part in its place. In such cases, do not remove the tacks until the cement is _cold_. If during the operation of lasting, the cemented surfaces become too cool to stick firmly, heat again over the “Heater.” Then hammer the parts lightly. The lasting thus prepared, (if _wholly of cloth_) are now ready for the cement. If the upper is part leather, the leather portion that is drawn over the edge of the last, must have its grain or enamelled surface removed as in Patent leather. This outer surface should be very carefully removed with a rasp or knife. A rasp is preferred as it leaves a desirable fibre. The grain thus removed should extend no farther than the edge of the inner sole. The shoe is now ready for the cement.

CEMENTING PROCESS AFTER LASTING.

The cement should be spread on the inner sole, and the edges of the upper that are lasted over, smoothly and evenly, to the edge of the in-sole, and _no farther_. Place the shoe or boot to dry in such a position as shall prevent the cement from running, or spreading over other portions of the shoe. One coat of thick cement is usually sufficient. But thick cloth of various descriptions, as Felting, Pilot cloth, etc., will require a double coating. Also some kinds of leather, as buckskin, it being very porous on its surface. All the fibres should be fully saturated with the cement; the _solvent_ of the cement should be _entirely dried out_, or evaporated, before putting on the outer sole. If the solvent is not entirely removed the cementation soon decomposes. The drying process is _all-important_.

DIRECTIONS FOR APPLYING THICK OR THIN SOLES TO SHOES AND BOOTS.

First it must be remembered, that all _heavy_ or _thick_ soles should be _first_ wet in _warm water_, thus softening them, so that they can be easily formed to the shoe. Then wipe dry from the _cemented surface_, place them in the “Heater,” (or other suitable heating oven,) with the other portions of the stock that are required in the construction of the shoe or boot. Place the shoe upon the “Heater” allowing it to remain only long enough to melt the cement; then if the shoe be a “spring heel,” place it (the heel) upon the shoe. If for a _double sole_, place the middle sole in its place, then the outer sole. Hammer and rub down _firmly_, so as to _exclude all the air_. Keep them in this condition by wetting slightly with _cold_ water, with a sponge, until they are firmly united and _cold_. _Thin stock does not require wetting._ This being done, the shoes are ready for the finisher. The finisher may wet the soles by soaking them in cold water, providing the upper stock is not injured thereby, as would be the case in bronzed or delicate stock. In such cases let them be carefully wet with a sponge. They can then be finished in the desired style.

[☞ By using due care, and following the directions as laid down, any style of boot or shoe may be put together, from the coarsest brogan, to the finest kid stock of any color, enamelled leather, in short, all classes of stock without any damage to any portion thereof. Also all kinds of cloth, from the coarsest Felting or Pilot cloth, to the finest and most delicate satins. All may be made in a superior style without the least defect.]

REMARKS ON FINISHING.

Sometimes by accident, there is seen some cement pressed out, adhering to the upper, caused by fitting the sole too full, or pressing over too far. In such cases it can be readily removed after the sole has been properly wet, by the use of a _thick_ knife. Its edges must be _round_ and _smooth_ so that it will not cut or mar the upper. Warm the knife sufficiently to soften the cement, then the outer sole may be set off from the upper at a proper distance, sufficiently to pare the edge neatly in finishing.

_Caution._—Great care must be used in the use of the warm knife. If too hot, it burns the leather upper. The finisher will soon learn the precise heat required.

Having given full instructions concerning the manufacture of the gutta-percha cemented shoe, we will now proceed to the process of repairing _every description_ of boots and shoes, pegged, sewed, or cemented. A discovery of great practical importance involving cheapness, lightness, quickness and wonderful durability, rendering them _water-proof_ on the sole, thus affording a protection against wet, or dampness to the most delicate shoe; an invaluable consideration when we remember that the primary cause of nine-tenths of the colds that are experienced, arise from damp or wet feet, which cannot be prevented by the old process. Every considerate mind must acknowledge the great advantage thus gained by the water-proof sole. The sole thus prepared being a _non-conductor_ of _heat_, the shoe retains its warmth, no matter how damp or cold the surface of the earth may be. Shoes or boots thus prepared may be emphatically denominated “_health preservers_.”

INSTRUCTIONS FOR PREPARING TAPS OR SOLES FOR REPAIRING.

First to prepare leather taps, fit them in the usual manner, by “skiving” or shaving off the proper portions of the sole or tap to the desired thinness. The stock being _perfectly dry_, next raise a thick fibre, and cement as before described, for outer soles, As a rule the cement will dry in the space of an hour, or even in _much less_ time, if desired.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR PREPARING THE BOOT, OR SHOE, TO BE REPAIRED.

Shave off the various portions in the usual manner of repairing. The soles should be clean and dry. Now raise a strong fibre, with a rasp or card, then cement the loose or broken parts of the old sole, if any, fully. When dry, the sole or _tap_ being in the same condition of _dryness_, properly heat them in the “Heater,” as described for putting on the outer sole. Hammer and rub them so that the tap shall unite _firmly_ to the shoe. Let them remain until cool, say from four to six minutes. Then wet and finish as before described. It is desirable to have a quantity of taps on hand, ready for use when wanted. Stock thus prepared will be sure to adhere, if properly put on, until worn off, unless removed by _improper_ exposure to heat.

Boots or shoes made, or repaired by this process, are made to be _worn_, not roasted and burnt, as is too often the case, by the reckless and imprudent. The feet may be _warmed_ as _thoroughly_, and even more so, with the _gutta-percha cemented shoe_, as with the common pegged or sewed shoe. Yet _care_ must be used not to heat the shoe to the _injury_ of the leather. Persons wearing these shoes will soon learn that they seldom require to be warmed, as the soles _retain the heat_ much longer than the common shoe. Hence, whenever it becomes necessary to warm the feet, much less heat is required, and _less time_ in warming them.

HINTS TO REPAIRERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Repairers of the gutta-percha cemented shoes will soon find that gutta-percha for a cement, is far superior to the old method, for all kinds of repairing. _All the thin stock or bits of leather can be cemented for taps, lifts, counters, or for any other purpose_, and worked up to the best advantage to all concerned. He can apply leather, or sheet gutta-percha for soles or taps, of any thickness desired.

IMPORTANT FACTS FOR MANUFACTURERS.

Various compounds of fibrous substances can be used and made by mixing and grinding gutta-percha with the following substances, between heated rollers.

_Artificial leather_ may be made by rolling and mixing saw-dust of any kind, or other fibrous substance, with gutta-percha, as chopped tow, flax, juto, cotton waste, etc., etc. Take maple saw-dust, two parts, gutta-percha one part. This compound thus prepared, will resemble oak-tanned leather. For the gutta-percha cemented shoe, this leather is considered as being _far superior to any leather in use_, being more durable, and leaving no waste, as all scraps can be again mixed and rolled as at first. The more it is mixed and rolled the better it becomes. Mahogany saw-dust, or other red-wood saw-dust, mixed and prepared as before, will produce an article resembling red sole leather, or hemlock tanned.

For repairing shoes, these compounds, or artificial leather, is superior to common leather, as it can be moulded and heated and applied at once, without the preparation required in common leather. It is, therefore, simply to heat and apply, as the gutta-percha is thoroughly mixed and ready for use; or it may be moulded into heels, in a solid form, and then applied.

COMPOUNDS FOR HEELS OF SHOES OR BOOTS.

Take two parts gutta-percha, one part sand, ground flint or granite, mix them well by passing between heated rollers. It is now ready to be moulded into heels, and will produce an article of wonderful durability. The compounds may be varied to suit the fancy of the manufacturer. The proportions may be varied by mixing a portion of saw-dust, or other fibrous substance. Heels thus made are exceedingly cheap, and will out-wear the firmest leather.

It will now be observed, that we have processes for the manufacturing of a _purely vegetable leather_, far superior to any other, at _one-third_ the price—which will not decompose in any latitude, and is not affected by atmospheric changes—is perfectly sweet, and may be worn at any time, through heat or cold, wet or dry—through acids or oily combinations, with entire safety.

VARIOUS FIBROUS COMPOUNDS FOR IN-SOLES, STIFFENINGS OR COUNTERS, FOR ALL DESCRIPTIONS OF CEMENTED BOOTS AND SHOES.

May be made by the same process as the artificial leather, and rolled to any required thickness. These compounds make the best counters for all kinds of cemented boots and shoes, as they are _water proof_, and easily fitted and moulded to the shoe, after being properly warmed in the “Heater.” Old sail cloth, or cotton fabrics of every description, that may have become useless for any other purpose, make good in-soles, by rolling thereon a thin sheet of gutta-percha, and may be combined to any required thickness. Gutta-percha may be applied to all kinds of pasteboard, straw-board, coarse paper or cloth, thus forming a _cheap and convenient water-proofing_. This may be done by simply spreading the warm gutta-percha upon its surfaces. After the cement has been submitted to a drying process of a few hours, it should then be subjected to a heat of about 180° for the space of five minutes. This process completely expels the solvent, at the same time causes the cement to penetrate the substance upon which it is spread. This material for linings and coverings of boxes, or boxes made of heavy coarse paper thus prepared for packing boots and shoes, all kinds of fine goods, medicines, vegetable compounds, highly finished tools, etc., may be thus shipped on long voyages, and subjected to damp, mildew, and decomposition, with the utmost safety. Edges of boxes may be cemented together with gutta-percha by a warm iron, precisely like the soldering process.

Common paper boxes may be made water-proof by the process just described.

The cloth or paper thus prepared, forms an excellent water-proof lining for trunks, valises, or chests.

Stout cloth thus prepared may be made into tubes for conveying water to all parts of the house, or from the spring to the house. Water thus conducted _remains as pure and sweet_ as when taken from the spring, and the tube is _literally indestructible_ by all ordinary agencies.

Excellent _speaking tubes_ may be thus prepared at a trifling expense.

PRACTICAL HINTS.

Gutta-percha may be mixed and ground together with almost an endless variety of substances, which substances are usually regarded as of little or no value in themselves; but being combined with gutta-percha, are thus transformed into valuable articles of mechanical manufacture. Much of the gutta-percha which is introduced into the market is nothing but a mixture of dirt, bark, and mineral substances, which entirely destroy its value. Great care should therefore be observed in its selection, _as its purity makes its value_.

Gutta-percha must be mixed or combined with what may be denominated imperishable substances, or _substances which the gutta-percha renders imperishable_.

In many of its combinations found in commerce, it is entirely destroyed and the manufactured article made worthless. In very many instances which have come to our knowledge, boots and shoes have been thus rendered of little or no value, and were justly returned to the manufacturers. Kid and leather shoes, with baked or burnt upper stock, and combinations of _rubber_ cement, rot or decompose the fibres of all cloth or leather to which it is applied that contains any oleaginous substances. Thus kid and leather shoes, with baked or burnt upper stock, and combinations of RUBBER cement, which rot or decompose the fibres of all cloth or leather, which contain any oleaginous substance to which it is applied, have been thrown upon the market, thus producing a prejudice in some minds, and destroying confidence in their utility.

In England and France, where the use of gutta-percha is better understood and appreciated, it has been used in its application to shoes for several years. Gutta-percha soles are prepared to suit the various sizes of boots or shoes, and are thus sold in packages. Prepared cement in small boxes with directions is an article generally for sale. Thus any person can mend his shoes without the aid of the cobbler. The process is exceedingly simple, the sole requiring only to be warmed and pressed upon the shoe with the hand.

Thousands are thus enabled, especially in the manufacturing districts of those large commercial centres, to mend their own shoes at less than one-half the usual cost, and in a much superior manner. Foreigners, on arriving in this country, are greatly surprised at our lack of enterprise in this direction, and loudly call for the gutta-percha taps, especially after using the miserable, half-tanned, and poorly made, sewed or pegged trash, which is so abundant, quantities of which are sent to our Southern and Western markets. This is well illustrated by the anecdote of a Southern negro, who, having worn a pair of these cheap, roughly-constructed brogans, and finding them falling to pieces, said to his master, “What make these shoes come to pieces so soon?” “Why,” said the master, in reply, “those shoes _grow_ at the East on trees.” “Is dat it, massa; well, den dese was _picked before dey was ripe_.”