Part 55

The counters are also prepared in this room, as well as the toe boxes or stiffening, which is placed between the toe cap and the vamp of the shoe. When these are all completed, they are sent to the making or bottoming room, where the completed shoe upper is awaiting them. Here a wonderfully ingenious little machine called the “Ensign Lacing Machine,” passes strong twine through the eyelets and in a twinkling ties it automatically. This is done so that all parts of the shoe will be held in their normal position while the shoe is being made. The knot tied by this machine is perfect and is performed with mechanical exactness. On high-grade shoes this work was formerly performed by hand and it will be readily recognized how difficult it was to obtain uniformity. The spread of the upper at the throat can be regulated perfectly when this machine is used. The different parts of the shoe now commence to come together. The workman places the toe box, or stiffening, in the proper location as well as the counter at the heel, and draws the upper over the last. To the bottom of this last has already been tacked by means of the U. S. M. Co. Insole Tacking Machine--which drives tacks automatically--the insole, which, it will be noticed, conforms exactly to the shape of the bottom of the last. This last, made of wood, is of the utmost importance, for upon the last depends the shape of the shoe.

The shoe as completed up to this point with the parts mentioned fastened together as shown, is now ready for assembling. The workman, after placing the last inside the shoe upper, puts it on the spindle of the Rex Assembling Machine, where he takes care that the seam at the heel is properly located. He presses a foot lever and a small tack is driven part way in, to hold the upper in place. He then hands it over to the operator of the Rex Pulling-Over Machine.

This machine is a very important one; for as the parts of the shoe upper have been cut to exactly conform to the shape of the last, it is necessary that they should be correctly placed on the last to secure the desired results. The pincers of this machine grasp the leather at different points on each side of the toe; and the operator, standing in a position from which he can see when the upper is exactly centered, presses a foot lever, the pincers close and draw the leather securely against the wood of the last. At this point the operation of the machine halts. By moving different levers, the workman is able to adjust the shoe upper accurately, so that each part of it lies in the exact position it was intended when the shoe was designed. When this important operation has been completed, the operator again presses a foot lever, the pincers move toward each other, drawing the leather securely around the last, and at the same time there are driven automatically two tacks on each side and one at the toe, which hold the upper securely in position. These tacks are driven but part way in, so that they may be afterward removed.

The shoe is now ready for lasting. This is one of the most difficult and important parts of the shoemaking process, for upon the success of this operation depends in a great measure the beauty and comfort of the shoe. The Consolidated Hand Method Welt Lasting Machine, which is used for this purpose, takes its name from the almost human way in which it performs this part of the work. It is wonderful to observe how evenly and tightly it draws the leather around the last. At each pull of the pincers a small tack driven automatically part way in holds the edge of the upper exactly in place, so that in the finished shoe every part of the upper has been stretched in all directions equally. The toe and heel of the shoe are considered particularly difficult portions to last properly. This important part of the work is now being very generally performed on the U. S. M. Co. Lasting Machine--No. 5, a machine of what is known as the “bed type.” It is provided with a series of wipers for toe and heel, which draw the leather simultaneously from all directions. There can be no wrinkles at the toe or heel of shoe on which it is properly used and the quality of work produced by it has been very generally recognized as a distinct advance in this important part of shoemaking. After the leather has been brought smoothly around the toe it is held there by a little tape fastened on each side of the toe and which is held securely in place by the surplus leather crimpled in at this point. The surplus leather crimpled in at the heel is forced smoothly down against the insole and held there by tacks driven by a very ingenious hand tool in which there is a constantly renewed supply of tacks.

In all of the lasting operations the tacks are driven but part way in, except at the heel portion of the shoe, where they are driven through the insole and clinched on the iron heel of the last. The tacks are driven only part way in, in order that they may be afterward withdrawn so as to leave the inside of the shoe perfectly smooth. In making shoes other than Goodyear Welts, with the exception of the Goodyear Turn Shoe, it is necessary to drive the tacks through the insole and clinch them inside the shoe, so that the different portions of the sole inside the shoe have clinched tacks. These are left even after the shoe is finished. This smooth interior of the shoe is one of the essential features of the Goodyear Welt Process.

In the lasting operation there is naturally a surplus amount of leather left at the toe and sometimes around the sides of the shoe, and this is removed on the Rex Upper Trimming Machine in which a little knife cuts away the surplus portion of the leather very smoothly and evenly, and simultaneously a small hammer operating in connection with the knife pounds the leather smooth along the sides and the toe of the shoe. The shoe then passes to the Rex Pounding Machine, in which a hammer pounds the leather and counter around the heel so that the stiff portion of the shoe conforms exactly to the shape of the last.

The shoe is now ready to receive the welt, which is a narrow strip of leather that is sewed along the edge of the shoe, beginning where the heel is placed and ending at the same spot on the opposite edge. This welt is sewed from the inside lip of the insole, so that the needle passes through the lip, upper and welt, uniting all three securely and allowing the welt to protrude evenly along the edge. The needle in making this stitch does not go inside the shoe, but passes through only a portion of the insole, leaving the inside perfectly smooth. This part of the work was formerly one of the most difficult and laborious tasks in shoemaking. As it was performed entirely by hand, the drawing of each stitch depended upon the strength and mood of the workman. It is of course obvious that with different operators stitches were oftentimes of different lengths and drawn at different tensions; for human nature is much the same everywhere, and it is impossible for a workman who has labored hard all day to draw a stitch with the same tension at night as might have been possible in the morning.

It is surprising how quickly and easily the work is done on the Goodyear Welt Sewing Machine. This famous machine has been the leading factor in the great revolution that has taken place in shoe manufacturing. Its work should be carefully noted--all stitches of equal length and measured automatically, the strong linen thread thoroughly waxed and drawn evenly and tightly; for the machine never tires, and it draws the thread as strongly in the evening as in the morning. Every completed movement of the needle forms a stitch of great strength, which holds the welt, upper and insole securely together.

As the lasting tacks as well as the tacks which hold the insole in place on the last were withdrawn just prior to this operation, it will be seen that the inside of the shoe is left perfectly smooth. After this process the surplus portions of the lip, upper and welt which protrude beyond the stitches made by the Goodyear Welt Machine are trimmed off by the Goodyear Inseam Trimming Machine--a most efficient machine, in which a revolving cup-shaped knife comes in contact with the surplus portions of the leather and trims them off very smoothly down to the stitches.

At this stage the shoe is passed to the Universal Welt Beater, in which a little hammer vibrating very rapidly beats the welt so that it stands out evenly from the side of the shoe. As the leather is bent around the toe, it is the natural tendency of the welt to draw more tightly at that place, and this is taken care of by a little knife which the operator forces into operation, in the beating process, the toe is being taken care of, and it makes a series of little cuts diagonally along the edge of it. The insole and welt now receive a coating of rubber cement. This cement is contained in an air-tight tank and is applied by means of a revolving brush, which takes its supply of cement, as required, from a can.

In this way, an even coating of any desired thickness is given to the insole and welt. This machine has many advantages; the cement being closely confined in the tank, there is almost no waste in its use. Formerly, when this was done by hand, the waste through evaporation or lack of care on the part of the workman was very material.

The heavy outsole of the shoe also receives at this time proper attention. The flesh side of this sole, or the side next to the animal, receives a coating of rubber cement, and after it has dried slightly the operator of the Goodyear Improved Twin Sole Laying Machine takes the work in hand. In this machine there is a rubber pad, or mould, which has been made to conform to the curve in the sole of the shoe. After placing the last on the spindle, which is suspended from the machine and hangs over the rubber mould, the outsole having been previously pressed against the bottom of the shoe, the operator by pressing the foot lever causes this arm to descend, forcing the shoe down into the mould, so that every portion of the sole is pressed against the bottom of the shoe and welt. Here they are allowed to remain for a sufficient length of time for the cement to properly set, the operation being repeated on a duplicate part of the machine, the operator leaving one shoe under pressure while he is preparing another.

The next operation is that of trimming the sole and welt so that they will protrude a uniform distance from the edge of the shoe. This work is performed on the Goodyear Universal Rough Rounding Machine, which gauges the distance exactly from the edge of the last. It is often desired to have the edge extended further on the outside of the shoe than it does on the inside and also that the width of the edge should be considerably reduced in the shank of the shoe. This is taken care of with great accuracy by the use of this machine. The operator is able to change the width at will. By the use of this remarkable machine the operator is also enabled to make the sole of the shoe conform exactly to all others of similar size and design.

The surplus portion of the leather is now trimmed off on the Heel-Seat Rounding Machine, and the channel cut by the knife on the Rough Rounding Machine is turned up so that it leaves the channel open. This is done by the Goodyear Universal Channel Opening Machine, in which a little wheel, turning very rapidly, lays the lip smoothly back.

~SEWING THE SOLE TO THE SHOE~

The outsole is now sewed to the welt. This operation is performed on the Goodyear Outsole Rapid Lockstitch Machine, which is very similar in operation to the Goodyear Welt Sewing Machine used in sewing the welt to the shoe. The stitch, however, is finer and extends from the channel which was cut for it to the upper side of the welt, where it shows after the shoe has been finished. The lockstitch formed by this machine is a most durable one. Using a thoroughly waxed thread, it holds the outsole securely in place, even after the connecting stitches have been worn off. This is one of the most important machines in the shoemaking process. It is able to sew even in the narrow shank, where a machine using a straight needle could not possibly place its stitch.

The “Star Channel Cementing Machine--Model A” is again called into operation for the purpose of coating with cement the inside of the channel in which this stitch has been made. A special brush with guard is used for this purpose, and the operation is very quickly performed by the skilled operator.

After this cement has been allowed to set a sufficient length of time, the channel lip, which has previously been laid back against the sole, is again forced into its former position and held securely in place by rubber cement. This work is done by the Goodyear Channel Laying Machine, in which a rapidly revolving wheel provided with a peculiar arrangement of flanges forces back into place, securely hiding the stitches from observation on this portion of the shoe.

The next operation is that of leveling, which is performed on the Automatic Sole Levelling Machine--one of the most interesting used in the shoemaking process. This is a double machine provided with two spindles, on one of which the operator places a shoe to be levelled. It is securely held by the spindle and a toe rest, and on the operator’s pressing a foot lever, the shoe passes automatically beneath a vibrating roll under heavy pressure. This roll moves forward with a vibrating motion over the sole of the shoe down into the shank, passes back again to the toe, then cants to the right, and repeats the operation on that side of the shoe, returning to the toe and canting to the left, repeating the operation on that side; after which the shoe automatically drops forward and is relieved from pressure. This rolling motion removes every possibility of there being any unevenness in the bottom of the shoe, and while one shoe is under pressure the operator is preparing a second one for the operation.

How the Paper in this Book is Made

Where Does Paper Come From?

Egyptians were the first people to make what would today be called paper. They made it from a plant called papyrus and that is where the name comes from.

This plant is a species of reed. The Egyptians took stalks of reed cut into as thin slices as they could, laid them side by side; then they arranged another layer on top with the slices the other way and put this in a press. When dried and rubbed until smooth, it made a kind of paper, which could be written upon.

One of the first substances used for making the kind of paper we have today was cotton. Paper was made from cotton about 1100 A. D. From this thin cotton paper our present papers are a development, i.e., paper today is largely made of vegetable fibers. Vegetable fibers consist mostly of cellulose surrounded by other things which hold the short vegetable fibers together.

The fibers best adapted for making paper are those of the cotton and flax plants, and while the uses of paper were few, no other material was needed when it was once learned that cotton and linen fibers would do for making paper. All we had to do was to save all the old rags and sell them to the paper man.

In making paper from rags, the rags were allowed to rot to remove the substances that incrust the cellulose, and then beaten into a pulp, to which a large quantity of water was added. This pulp was put into a sieve, until the greater part of the water had been drained off by shaking, and the fibers remaining formed a thin layer on the bottom of the sieve. This layer of fiber was put into a pile with other similar layers, and the whole pile was placed under a press, where more of the water was removed. When they were dry, we had a very fair kind of paper which was, however, not much better than blotting paper and could not be written on with ink because it was loose in texture and very absorbent.

To give it good writing surface it was necessary to fill the pores. This was done by sizing which gave the paper great firmness. Paper was sized by drawing the layers of paper through a solution of alum and glue, or some similar substances, and then drying them, then finally passed between highly polished rollers to iron it. This gave it the necessary smooth hard surface.

In the modern method of making rag paper by machinery, the rags are boiled with caustic soda, which separates the cellulose fibers, and placed in a machine in which rollers set with knives tear the rags to pieces and mix them with water to form a pulp. This is called a breaker. The pulp is then bleached with chloride of lime, and is passed on to the sizing machine. This machine mixes the pulp with alum and with a kind of soap, made from suitable resins which serves the purpose better than glue.

How Is the Water Mark Put Into Paper?

The pulp, which is now ready to be made into paper, is poured out upon an endless cloth made of fine brass wire. This cloth travels constantly in one direction, by means of rollers, and is given at the same time a sort of vibratory motion, to cause the paper fibers to become more closely felted together. On the wire cloth web are usually woven words, or designs, in wire, that rise above the rest of the surface. These are transferred to the paper, and are called water marks. The machine then winds the finished paper into rolls, so that it may be handled conveniently.

~HOW PAPER IS NOW MADE FROM WOOD~

During the past few years the uses for paper have increased so greatly that there have not been enough rags available to meet the demand for material, and a successful effort was made to find other material from which paper could be made. Many fibers were tried before it was found that wood pulp could be used. Straw and esparto grass, a plant that grows wild in North America, were found to yield cellulose having the desired qualities and were used to some extent. But the problem was solved when it was learned that pulp made from trunks and limbs of trees would serve even then. At first the powder formed by grinding up logs was used, but the paper produced was not strong, and could be used for very few purposes.

It was discovered finally that if wood shavings were boiled in strong solutions of caustic soda, in receptacles that would withstand very high pressure, the wood fibers were separated, and a very good quality of cellulose for paper manufacture produced, provided it was bleached before being made into paper, and most of our paper to-day is, therefore, made of wood.

Later on this process gave way to the sulphite process. In the sulphite process, a solution of sulphite of lime is used. Acid sulphite of lime results when the fumes from burning sulphur are passed through chimneys filled with lime. By this process the separation of the fibers and the bleaching are done at the same time and an even whiter paper making material is obtained.

The sulphite process is now used almost exclusively in making paper from wood.

The discovery of the process of making paper from wood has led to the use of paper for many purposes for which it could otherwise never have been used. The wood pulp is also used in the form of papier-mâché, a tough, plastic substance, which is made by mixing glue with it, or by pressing together a number of layers of paper having glue between. Papier-mâché can easily be molded into almost any form, and after drying forms a very tough substance and one that will stand rough usage. It has been employed for making dishes, water baskets and utensils of many other kinds, for making the matrices for and from electrotype plates, for car wheels, and many other purposes.