Part 5

A hive-board suitable is either like the one shown at p. 43, or that at p. 44; the boxes being placed upon it, with the bars ranging from front to back. Some persons are inclined, instead of one central entrance to the stock-box, to prefer two smaller ones, placed respectively at the outer extremities of the front, of course cut from the floor board; and it is probable that this departure from the general practice may not be without its occasional advantage, in winter especially, in a broad, shallow hive.

These boxes, like all wooden hives, should be placed in a house of some kind, if possible; but instances occur where such a convenience is not available. To meet these, I will describe a substitute, which gives effectual protection, though it would still be better standing under a shed. A recurrence to the engraving in the next page will show that our plan comprises an outer casing, in two compartments, and surmounted by a top cover or roof. They may be of half-inch wood, large enough in the square to drop loosely over the boxes, the lower compartment resting upon the rabbet of the hive-board, which may be made as shown at page 44, and wide enough to leave, on three sides, an outside margin of an inch. On the front side a rather more extended margin may be expedient. The height of the lower compartment, measuring from the rabbet of the floor board, reaches to the top of the stock-box, except just as much as will allow the slides to pass over its edge. A good-sized elliptical opening faces the mouth of the hive; or increased to two, where there is a second entrance. The other compartment of the case should be high enough to enclose within it the two upper boxes. To its outer bottom edge, a band or fillet, about two inches wide, and nearly half an inch thick, is appended, half its width. The other half-width is intended to overlap the outer upper edge of the lower case, when placed one upon the other; and this part should be chamfered, so as to go on and off easily. For appearance' sake, another band is appended to the upper case, near its top; unless any other exterior architectural embellishment is preferred. A reference to the engraving will show the whole design is completed by a hipped roof or cover. Under the four projecting edges of the latter is a suspended cornice, about two inches deep, on its outer sides. When in its place, about three quarters of an inch of the cornice ought to overhang, dropping loosely over the upper outer edge of the case (a little chamfered); to regulate this, recessed at the four angles, within the cover, are attached cross corner blocks. For the purpose of ventilating the roof, long lateral openings are cut out on the four sides, from the upper part of the cornice, under the projecting edges of the roof. The total projection of this may be two inches, or a little more. The cover ought to fit equally well upon either compartment of the case; for in winter the edifice can be reduced to one story only.

The stand for the whole is simply an open frame, of the same outside dimensions as the cases; with inch-thick rails, four inches deep, framed at the corners to four posts or legs. These may be two inches square, and eighteen inches high; either sunk into the ground, or placed upon it, by means of cross-pieces, pinned or pegged down. The hive-board drops loosely down into the frame, and rests upon the rails, showing a projection all round of an inch; the cross bars on its underneath side retaining it steadily.

In a former edition, this kind of hive, when thus fitted up with an outer covering, obtained the name of the _double_ bar-hive, by way of distinction from another mode of constructing it, which will now be detailed.

Whatever may be said about the inexpediency of placing wooden hives in exposure to the weather, the one we are now proceeding to describe was intended to meet the wishes of some bee-proprietors, who objected to the small degree of trouble, involved in using any kind of outer casing; obtaining from this circumstance the appellation of the _single_ bar-hive.

The three boxes, forming the set, differ but little from those last described; the interior dimensions, bars, windows, crown-boards, &c., being similar; but the centre board is omitted, and the thickness of the wood must be increased to not less than one and a quarter inch. A rabbet of a quarter of an inch is cut round all the crown-boards, to receive a super box, or the roof cover; the better to retain it in its place. The outside projection should be extended to not less than an inch and a half; this part being chamfered to throw off wet. The plan of the roof cover will be seen on reference to our illustration. The square appended within it is in interior diameter the same as the boxes, to fit over any of them, resting upon it sufficiently to allow the projecting parts of the crown-board to be seen as a cornice. Beyond this, there is a further projection of the roof of an inch, provision for ventilation being made by a double set of openings, cut as shown in our engraving. For better security in winter, loose wooden blocks, to the stock-box, may be made to fill the space intervening between the glass windows and the sliding shutters. The hive-board may be that shown either at p. 43, or 44, of the same dimensions as that of the crown-boards, and chamfered off. The stand to receive it is like the one described and shown at p. 66, the square of its frame being the same as that of the exterior of the boxes. Our engraving exhibits a simple method of adding a useful kind of porch to the entrance of the stock-box, by means of a strip of zinc or other material, of the width of the front projection of the floor board. It can be bent into the form of an elliptical arch, the two lower extremities being held by going down within the sunken part of the board, whilst the upper part derives support by being pressed back beneath the window moulding.

Those who study economy may, instead of the entire set of boxes just described, retain the stock-box only, with a cover to receive any kind of super, as shown above. The cover will do if made of half-inch wood, nine inches high to the square of the roof; the outside dimensions being the same as in the stock-box. A slanting projecting roof forms a part of the cover. Under its projecting edges openings for ventilation can be cut. The cover is retained in its place by a rabbet cut round the top of the stock-box, and preventing the admission of wet.

The object of the bars we have said is to furnish parallel foundations on which the combs are to be worked, for without an observance of this regularity, subsequent extraction becomes impossible; showing the necessity for a proper _beginning_. To induce the bees to preserve a straight direction, it has usually been found expedient to append what are termed _guide-combs_ to three or four of the centre bars of the stock-box, previously to hiving a swarm into it; and for the purpose some pieces of clean _worker-comb_ ought to be kept in reserve. In giving the needful directions for fixing the guides, we cannot do better than use the words of Mr. Golding, who says, "this is easily effected by heating a common flat-iron, slightly warming the bars with it, then melting a little bees'-wax upon it. The comb is now drawn quickly across the heated iron, and held down upon the centre of the bar, to which it firmly adheres, if properly managed. These pieces of guide-comb need not be more than two or three inches in diameter. Care should be taken that the pitch or inclination of the cells is upwards from the centre of each comb." Or it may do equally well, if the edge of the comb is dipped in melted wax.

In the absence of guide-combs another mode of proceeding has been sometimes successfully resorted to. Take a flat piece of tin or zinc (or stiff paper might do), of the length and width of one of the bars: cut out the central portion to the extent of half an inch in width. Lay the pattern thus prepared upon the bar, and with a brush smear, in a straight line, some melted bees'-wax along the central half-inch opening, and so proceed with four or five other bars. The bees will usually commence working first upon the waxed part of the bar, and this tends to uniformity subsequently. Nothing can be more beautiful than a box of honey-combs thus regularly worked; nor is it possible in any other way to have them so perfect and unbroken, when detached. Indeed, the convenience of moveable bars can only be appreciated by those accustomed to their use. Their advantage is apparent when it has become expedient to remove old combs from stock-hives. They may be made available in cases where one box has more and another less of sufficient store of honey: in such event, or as a substitute for feeding, a loaded bar or two can be transferred from the one to the other; or from a super to a stock-box. For the object of making artificial swarms great facility is given, more especially when a comb contains a royal cell. A brood-comb may in like manner be taken and inserted in a weak stock, to strengthen the population; or for the purpose of rearing a Queen artificially, in a hive wanting one. So also, in the swarming season, supernumerary royal cells may be cut out: likewise, a superabundance of drone-combs can be removed, and the bees will fill the vacancies with common ones.

We shall, under the head of _Autumnal management_, give general directions for the removal or deprivation of full super boxes; but it may be well here to describe the method to be pursued where it is necessary to operate on a _stock-hive_. In such a case, a piece of board is useful, of the same width and thickness as the top, or crown-board. In the middle of the day, unscrew the latter, sliding it sideways; the extra board covering over the vacancy as you proceed. In this way, only as much space as is wanted to get at any given bar need be exposed. "A few puffs of smoke," says Mr. Golding, "may now be blown down the sides of the comb to be taken out, which will intimidate the bees, and drive them away. A double-edged knife-blade, an inch and a half long, and three eighths of an inch wide, turned at right angles from the end of an iron rod of about a foot in length, is now passed down the edges of the comb, to detach them from the hive. After this is done, the comb may be easily lifted; such bees as still adhere to it being swept down into the hive as the bar is lifted upwards. Such operations as these are much less formidable than many persons believe. The fact is, the bees, when once intimidated by the smoke, may be done almost anything with. Quietness and a little tact are all that is required. When combs are taken out, they may be either detached from the bars at once, and the bars returned, or spare bars may be kept on hand wherewith to replace such as have been extracted."

BAR GLASS-HIVE.

Before we leave the subject of box-hives, it may be interesting to give a description of one recently constructed by me for experimental purposes, as referred to in the note at page 53, and here illustrated. It may not improperly be termed a _Light_, or _Observatory Hive_, in distinction from the usual mode of rendering the dwelling as dark as possible. The hive itself resembles the bar-boxes just described, as to its interior dimensions, bars, crown-board, &c.; but differs inasmuch as it is made simply as a frame, filled in on the four sides with thick glass, flush with the inside surface of the wood. For the purpose of preventing the bees from attaching the combs to the glass, thin upright strips of wood, rather more than half an inch wide, are tacked under the centre of each bar, at both ends, extending from top to bottom inside of the hive. Or some might prefer to use frame-bars, like the one described and illustrated at page 58; but guides or waxed bars must be used, to ensure the regularity of the combs, and prevent an obstruction to the sight. The hive ought to be placed in a house, and in winter should be carefully covered; an outer case or box going over all.

STRAW BAR-HIVE.

We have already alluded to hives of straw, fitted with bars. The one now about to be described differs from those commonly used, in several respects, as will be seen on reference to the annexed illustration.

In form, my hive is an open cylinder, 14 inches in inside diameter, and 7 inches in height, to the upper side of the bars, which are eight in number; similar in size, and interspaced like those in the square bar-hive, described at page 56. For the purpose of supporting the bars, a well-seasoned hoop is introduced within, and on a level with, the upper edge of the hive--nearly two inches in depth, and a quarter inch thick; its interior diameter being the same as that of the hive. The two upper straw bands of the latter are reduced in size, sufficiently to form a recess equal to the thickness of the hoop,--the outside of the hive remaining flush. The hoop is there retained by a few small brad-nails, driven through it and into the straw; and thus no impediment is offered on extracting the combs. A difficulty presented itself in attaching the bars to the edge of the hoop, to overcome which I constructed a pattern-gauge, differing in form from that seen at page 57. Our illustration will show that the outer edges of the gauge are divided, so as, when laid flat upon the hoop, to give the precise position of the indentations for the reception of the ends of the bars: moreover, these may severally be correctly fashioned by following the form shown upon the gauge. The adjustment of the bars should be done previously to attaching the hoop to the hive, not allowing them to fit too tight. The cover is a flat piece of worked straw, which ought to lie _close_ upon the bars. I have found no better method of securing the cover in its place than by the use of a few pointed iron pins, going down through it and into the upper edge of the hive. For convenience of working supers, a three-inch hole is left in the centre of the cover; stopped, when not in use, by a small piece of worked straw, pinned down. Some persons might prefer a wooden top, which may be perforated either with one hole or three. It should rest upon the bars, and can be held in its place by pins, in the way we have just mentioned, and which at any time are removable; or a hoop may be attached to the edge of the crown-board, as described and shown at page 35.

CIRCULAR WOODEN HIVES.

I have sometimes turned my attention to cylinders of wood, as offering great advantages in constructing a hive; not only in attaching bars, but also the desirable convenience of windows. The facilities for procuring them made with the requisite correctness of form, however, depends on circumstances not always at command; the process of construction being the same of steaming, rolling, and shaping, employed by the manufacturers of our common wooden corn measures, &c. The cost of the wood cylinders alone are not much more than the straw ones, and being made of oak or ash, they are very durable. Softer and more porous wood would doubtless be preferable, but a difficulty attends the use of such. In size, the dimensions before recommended are adhered to; viz., 14 inches clear, by seven inches in height, for hives with or without bars; the thickness being about half an inch. A reference to our illustration, and to the accompanying pattern gauge, will show the mode of cutting and adjusting the bars; these resting rather loosely in rabbets, cut the width of the bar, half through the thickness of the hive. The crown-board may be made and cut in the way already described, and can be fixed by means of a few small screws; or, if preferred, in the method detailed and illustrated at page 59. When the hive is not fitted with bars, it is an advantage partially to sink the crown-board within the diameter of the cylinder, which ensures a more perfect joint. At the back is a window of bent glass, protected by a sliding zinc shutter, moving in a frame of rabbeted moulding; all following the curved form of the wood. A suitable staining and varnishing gives to the whole a neat appearance. Two of the hives may be placed one upon the other, for supering; an adapter or centre board going between them: or smaller wooden round hives, of any size, with thin tops, can be used for the same purpose; and these might be made by a common cooper.

These hives are of too recent introduction to warrant saying more than that, to adapt them to the object in view, it is essential that they be placed in a house or cover, as from the density of the wood they are not calculated to bear exposure to the sun and weather. In winter attention should be given to close covering them. I may add that, in using a thinner cylinder, I have tried the experiment of coating the outside with an envelope of _gutta percha_, giving the advantage of improved appearance, and doubtless of utility, but at a considerable increase of cost.

COLLATERAL SYSTEM.

Various modes of working hives collaterally, or side by side, have been devised, but a very simple one has been practised with success by a correspondent, which as adapted by me may with propriety be termed a _doubling-board_. It is formed of a plain board not less than an inch thick. It must be of sufficient width to take a broad shallow hive, and long enough to contain two of these, with six or eight inches to spare. A stock-hive is in the first instance placed over the centre circular mark, within which is the double outlet for the bees. When more space is required, it must be moved over one of the side circles, and a second hive placed over the other. The double outlet forms a communication within the floor-board from hive to hive. The part hollowed out for this purpose is five inches wide, six inches long, and half an inch high inside, a sloping way being cut on the two further sides down into it. Two covered passages lead from this, terminating at one point on the alighting-board. The bees, having been accustomed to both these passages, will commonly take to the second hive, and commence working therein, particularly if smeared with honey. In order to show the position of the parts hollowed out, these are slightly shaded in the engraving. They are cut from the bottom side of the board, in the way described at page 45. A second piece of wood, nine or ten inches wide, must be screwed to the under side, to enclose the openings. This ought to reach back nearly the width of the upper board; at the same time projecting far enough in front to form the alighting-place. Another cross piece may be screwed to the under side, at each end.

When it is required to take away one of the hives, the communication below must be cut off between them. This is done by means of a divider of strong tin, copper, or iron, pushed in from behind, in a groove cut edgewise in the bottom side of the main board, and resting on the under one. The dotted line in the engraving shows the position of the divider, which must in depth be the same as the passage between the two hives, so as, when in its place, to stop it entirely across the centre.

Another plan of working hives side by side is shown below, two boards being required.

They are made on the double plan, as described at page 45; alike in size and thickness, with the entrance passages cut out from beneath. There must, however, be two entrances to the board intended for the second hive--one in front, and the other at the side, with doorways not less than six inches wide. A wedge or two of wood will contract them as needed. When room is required, the first board with its hive must be moved so far sideways that the second one can precisely occupy its place. At the same time it must be turned half round, so that its mouth and that on the side of the new hive meet and fit close together. The bees will pass into the other hive on going out: on returning it will be the same, for the alighting-board (which ought to be a fixture) will remain as usual. On removing a full hive, the other must be restored to its original position.

WHITE'S COLLATERAL HIVE.

As regards collateral bee-boxes, we owe our original acquaintance with them principally to White, nearly a century ago.[L] His plan requires two boxes, placed side by side, with means of communication, open or stopped at pleasure. These hives do not appear to have been very extensively used; perhaps a good deal owing to the imperfect way in which they were made. For my own use, I endeavoured to improve upon the original design, of which the engraving following will give an idea. The boxes and their boards are shown a little separated; the passages from one to the other being made along the top and bottom of each box. These openings can be closed by the introduction horizontally of slides of thick tin or copper, of an inch and a quarter wide, inserted from behind; let into the boxes their own thickness, and there loosely kept by cases or strips of tin, cut to correspond with the openings. The tins may be about two and a half inches wide. Their form, and that of the slides, is here shown.

[L] See 'Collateral Bee-boxes; or a new, easy, and advantageous method of managing Bees.' By Stephen White, Holton, Suffolk, London, three editions, 1756, 1763, and 1764.

NUTT'S COLLATERAL HIVE.

The modes we have hitherto noticed as applicable to hives worked side by side suppose two to be employed; but Nutt, a few years ago, introduced _three_ boxes, as forming a set; and these hives had their day, where cost and space were not objects.[M]

[M] See 'Humanity to Honey Bees.' By Thomas Nutt.

The three boxes are placed together collaterally, with an entrance from the centre box to the side ones, each way, through what may be termed a grating; which communication can either be open, or cut off by means of a divider, made of sheet tin, pushed between. The centre box Nutt named the _Pavilion_, into which the bees must be hived, and not afterwards disturbed. As more space is required by the bees, it is given by withdrawing the divider. They then take possession of one or both of the side boxes, which when filled can be removed. There are holes on the top of the side boxes for the reception of ventilators. In the construction of these hives the theory of Nutt supposes that a warmer temperature is required in the seat of breeding from that in which comb-building and the storing of honey ought to take place, than which no greater fallacy is possible, as during the formation of a comb the bees cluster round it in masses, to generate the highest degree of warmth. By the agency of ventilation in his side boxes, these are injuriously rendered cooler than the centre one; a thermometer inserted within the ventilator determining the relative degrees of heat.[N]