Part 1

Vol. I FEBRUARY, 1921 No. 5

H.B.C. Pioneer Steamer Ruled West Coast Trade 20 Years

_The "Beaver," of 109 Tons Burthen, Took Prominent Part in History of British Columbia--Cared for Wants of 40,000 Natives._

By C. H. FRENCH

THERE was not a single phase of British Columbia history from 1835 to 1874 in which H.B.S.S. "Beaver" did not play a large part. She was admired by all those old pioneers associated with the history of the West Coast.

The foundation of Victoria City was laid by the "Beaver." Fort Rupert and Nanaimo were built under her protection, and though Fort Simpson was founded prior to her arrival on the coast, she was the main protection of that establishment for many years afterwards.

_Ship Used to Keep Law and Order_

Operations of the Hudson's Bay Company in Russian America were entirely under her control and many minor difficulties in that region were effectively settled promptly on her arrival at the seat of trouble. When, too, the reign of law and order was threatened closer home, in every case the arrival of the "Beaver" was awaited before effective steps could be taken to bring affairs back to a normal state.

On one occasion, two murderers escaped to Cowichan and the warship "Thetis" sent a hundred and fifty of her men on the "Beaver" and proceeded to Cowichan under command of James Douglas to administer the law.

There were many other cases of this nature that demonstrated the "Beaver's" usefulness in developing and colonizing British Columbia, particularly the north coast.

_The "Beaver" Steamed Round the Horn_

It was, to many, a marvel that a small boat of this kind could steam round Cape Horn and weather any storm that she encountered. These men forget that, though small, she was built of stoutest oak and was considered a more able and seaworthy craft than many of much larger size operating today.

Her keel was of unusual size and in full keeping with the British oak stem and stern post. The best greenheart and oak ribs were used, being carefully dressed and of large size. The spaces between these frames were filled in solidly to a level above the water line with curved timbers of the same material as the ribs. Outside planking was oak and African teak, fastened with copper bolts and tree nails, covered with a layer of thick tar paper and then sheeted with fir fastened with spikes of bronze composition. The hull was surfaced with a sheeting of copper.

_Launched Under Royal Patronage_

Her length was a hundred and one feet, breadth inside paddle boxes twenty feet, outside thirty-three feet, depth eleven and one-half feet, having one hundred and nine tons burden. She carried a crew of twenty-six men and was armed with five nine-pounders. Her building, and especially her launching, created a great interest, as she is reported to have plunged into the mighty Thames under the patronage of royalty and in the presence of a vast throng of spectators.

_H.B.C. Quality Shewn in Building_

The construction of the "Beaver" indicates that the Hudson's Bay Company were up-to-date and were living up to their British traditions by being always first in the field in any new enterprise that required capital and far-sighted commercial methods. It must be remembered that steam vessels were not at that time proven to be successful, but were in the experimental stage. The spirit of adventure, as the term was understood in those days, was much in evidence when the Company's Governor and Committee ordered the "Beaver" in 1834 from Messrs. Green, Wigham & Green, at Blackwall, London.

Two new masts were made and installed at Port Simpson in 1858 by a carpenter named Rudlin, and she was sent to Sitka, Alaska, to be overhauled by the Russians the same winter (1858). Apart from this, nothing seems to have been spent on her other than what her own crew could do.

She had two engines 35 nominal horsepower, each of the long since obsolete side-lever type, though much in favour during those early times following the "Beaver's" construction.

It was an interesting day when the keel of this wonderful little black steamer was laid, but how much more interesting must the 29th day of August, 1835, have been when the "Beaver" glided down into the English Channel and out on the trackless ocean on her voyage to the north Pacific ocean to become famous in the annals of the west.

The "Beaver" arrived at Robinson Crusoe Island, via Cape Horn, December 17th, 1835, and Astoria (Columbia River) April 4th, 1836.

_H.B.C. Fur Headquarters on Columbia River_

The Hudson's Bay Company's fur trade up to this date had as its headquarters on the Pacific Coast the Columbia River, but as the trade was being developed it was soon apparent that Columbia River was not the most suitable location from which to administer affairs. The ships from London were taking great risks when crossing the Columbia River bar, and as there were no steam tugs available, going up the Columbia River with a sailing vessel for one hundred miles or more was not at all to their liking. The coastwise boats, apart from the "Beaver," were all small sailing-ships and the voyage to the Columbia from Puget Sound was really a stupendous undertaking.

The Hudson's Bay Company's possessory rights in Oregon were the stumbling blocks. If the Columbia River establishments were abandoned the Company's claim might be jeopardized, and rather than do that a route was opened through from Fort Vancouver to Nisqually on the Puget Sound via the Cowlitz River, where trade goods could be transported by boat and ox-cart and shipped north on the ships engaged in the trade, thereby saving much time to the ships but wasting considerable of the time of the land forces.

_The "Beaver's" Coast Route_

From Nisqually, the "Beaver" took a full cargo in January, proceeding to Fort Simpson, calling en route at all Indian villages where she would anchor, throw out her boarding nets and proceed to trade, so that by the time she reached Fort Simpson a large part of her cargo would have been traded.

At Fort Simpson the furs collected were taken ashore and stored and the ship restocked with trade goods; then she proceeded, calling at all villages en route to Taku. Returning to Fort Simpson, furs were unloaded and more goods taken.

This procedure was kept up all summer, the "Beaver" making about four trips north, and the same number south, leaving off in time to reach Victoria before Christmas.

The "Beaver" was not subject to orders from any but Sir James Douglas, but she had all Posts on the route she covered under her control. It was estimated that she _had to cater to the wants of forty thousand natives_.

_Monarch of Trade for Twenty Years_

For twenty years she was complete monarch of the coast. In all new Indian trade countries and indeed in all new white settlements, the wants of the population had gradually increased, until in 1852 the "Beaver" was found to be totally inadequate for the trade. A new boat was built for the Company in England and named the "Otter," arriving at Victoria in April, 1853.

_Victoria to San Francisco in Four Days_

One of the "Otter's" first duties after arriving at Victoria from England was to go to San Francisco. Sir James Douglas says, "In spite of head winds, she went down in four days and returned in five days, and she was much admired where her unexpected arrival created quite a sensation."

She was the first steamer propelled by a screw to be brought out by the Company, and was altogether just as successful as was the "Beaver" and had the same fault--being too small. However, the "Beaver" and "Otter" between them were able to take care of the work for a few years, until the "Enterprise" was purchased in 1862, to help out on the Fraser River run during the great Caribou gold excitement.

_"Beaver" Chartered to British Government_

It is easy to understand that by this time the "Beaver's" engines were in need of attention, and it was under discussion as to whether they should be taken out and sent home to be re-bored, or whether the steamer should be sent herself to have repairs effected; but before a decision was reached, the boat was chartered to the British Government for the purpose of survey work.

Meanwhile, the Hudson's Bay Company had built in England another ship, the "Labouchere." She was of the paddle-wheel type, but much larger and more costly to operate than the "Beaver." The zeal of the Hudson's Bay Company's officers to get an up-to-date boat caused them to overlook the fact that money and business were not plentiful, and a steamer to operate successfully on the coast must be carefully selected. When they realized their mistake, other work was sought, with the result that she was placed on the San Francisco-Victoria mail route in competition with the California Steam Navigation Company's steamer "Active," and a rate war, probably the first on the coast, was started. It ended suddenly, however, when the "Labouchere" on her second trip was wrecked at Point Ray.

+----------------------+ | LITTLE JOURNEYS TO | | FUR TRADE POSTS OF | | THE HUDSON'S BAY CO. | +----------------------+

GRAHAM POST

_Sioux Lookout, Ontario_

By L. J. WILLIAMS

GRAHAM is one of the comparatively small number of H.B.C. "line" posts, _i.e._, fur trading establishments located close to railway transportation. Graham Post is on the Canadian National Railway at Sioux Lookout, a town of nearly one thousand people and a railroad and lumbering centre.

The name "Sioux Lookout" was taken from the high rocky hill just west of the town. Indian legends relate that this high hill was often used by wandering bands of Sioux warriors, who, ranging far from their Dakota prairies, watched with keen eyes from the top of this hill the narrow gorge from Pelican to Abraham's Lake as they laid plans to ambush and exterminate the Indians of that district. A fire ranger's observation tower now stands at the summit of the hill.

Sioux Lookout lies close by Pelican Lake, one of the chain of lakes comprising the original H.B.C. freight route from the Canadian Pacific Railway to inland posts to the northward--_Lac Seul_, _Osnaburgh_, _Fort Hope_ and _Cat Lake_.

The staff of the Company's present day post at Graham includes the post-manager, three clerks, a deliveryman, bookkeeper and junior office clerk. The Company's business, in addition to fur trading, is derived from the population of Sioux Lookout and comprises the transient trade to and from the lumber camps located to the east and west of the town.

The wonderful waterways and remarkable scenic beauty of the country surrounding Sioux Lookout rival those of Minaki. Vacationers and camping parties in ever increasing numbers are going to Sioux Lookout every Summer, where nearly everybody has a motor boat or canoe to traverse the wondrous stretches of waterways with their miles and miles of beautiful bays and fine sandy beaches.

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_The Fur-ious Medicine Man_

By S. A. TAYLOR, Saskatchewan District

THE Medicine Man--his wife was mad, He had done much to peeve 'er Ten minks he'd caught; their tails cut off, Just simply for to grieve 'er.

And when for _bear_-ly half a day He'd strived hard to appease her, He said, "It's why I call 'er mine Just so as I can tease 'er."

And if she don't improve her ways, Next time I come home then, In order to hear what she says, Again will I _mar_(r)_ten_.

Ten of my very choicest _mink_, A spell I will cast o'er them; If that don't make her stop and think, I'll with my jack knife bore them.

Next day whilst at the water hole His wife fell in the "wotter," He said this time I'll _fisher_ out Because I think I _o't ter_.

As cunning as a _fox_ his wife Was bound she would get even. She thought, I cannot take his life Because of children seven.

Next day she ran off in the bush She'd had too many drinks. They searched all night; to scare the wolves They carried flaming _links_.

No doubt the _wolves_ of her made hash, For she was never found. His marriage to her he _mus_(t)_quash_ Her hubby would be bound.

Her carcass you will never find He said; the wolves have got her So let's go home and never mind. He was an awful rotter.

Now, motto for this pome there's none But for it there's a reason. Each verse contains some kind of _fur_ We hope to get this season.

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ESPRIT DE CORPS

_And Why it Builds Successful Companies_

By H. F. HARMAN, _Land Commissioner_

THE literal meaning of "Esprit de Corps" denotes the common spirit pervading the members of a body or association of persons.

It implies sympathy, enthusiasm, devotion, and jealous regard for the honor of the organization as a whole.

This French phrase was the unwritten but ever present motto or slogan which finally brought about the successful termination of the war for the Allies.

Read slowly the interpretation of the phrase and you will realize its tremendous import when faithfully, persistently exercised.

This is the spirit which, for the past 250 years, has animated so many loyal officials and servants of the "Governor and Company of Adventurers of England Trading into Hudson Bay." Let this generation see to it that we do not become indifferent to this very essential and necessary characteristic.

This spirit should prevail throughout the Company's service in the Dominion and elsewhere, and when difficulties and differences of opinion arise, as they always will in the natural course of our everyday pursuits, let us all, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, in towns, cities and the farthest interior, just remember to say to ourselves "Esprit de Corps, under all circumstances," or, as the Governor put it during his recent visit to Canada, "pour a little oil on the machinery when it does not run perfectly and smoothly." (It's the only lubricant available these days.)

Try to put yourself in the other fellow's shoes and do unto him as you would he should do unto you.

If I were asked, "What institutions do you consider have been, and are yet, of the greatest service to Canada?" my reply would be: "Hudson's Bay Company and Canadian Pacific Railway." "And what has been the chief factor which has created such an enviable position for these two companies?"--"Esprit de Corps."

The success of any organization or corporation depends upon this; let us constantly keep this motto before us.

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Lost in the Bush

By ASHTON ALSTON

IT being a bright, cold, frosty morning in the latter part of October, the Indians all off to their hunting grounds and nothing much doing around the post, I thought that I would take a day off and go and put down some marten and fisher traps.

I got away about 7 a.m. and after paddling about six miles I arrived at the end of the lake and took to the bush. Heading in a northerly direction I trudged along, placing snares for fur at various likely looking places, and so interested was I in my work that I did not notice that the day was fast slipping by and night approaching.

It must have been late in the afternoon when I startled a flock of partridges which got away before I could get a shot at them. After following the direction in which they had gone for some distance and failing to locate them, I thought, therefore, that I would hit the trail for home, but after walking for some time I realized that I was lost.

In the meantime, the wind was getting up and low, angry clouds were scudding across the sky, which foretold, as a sailor would say, "a dirty night." Not expecting to be so long away, I had not brought provisions with me, so was beginning to feel hungry.

The sun had long since disappeared and the night was coming on, so I thought it best to look for a good camping place. I luckily came across a spot with any amount of dry and green wood, so started to make things comfortable for the night. I first of all cut down some green trees and with the branches made a shelter. Then I cut enough dry wood to last the night, made a good fire and lay down in front of it. Fortunately, having a good supply of tobacco and my pipe, I was able to make myself comfortable.

About 8 o'clock, however, things changed for the worse. The thermometer dropped and it began to blow and snow. It snowed more or less all night, and having no blankets or overcoat with me, I was employed the best part of the night in keeping the fire burning. The long night came to an end at last. The wind dropped and the snow ceased falling. Soon the sun appeared above the tree tops, looking warm and big. I was then enabled to get my bearings. I took out my watch and pointed the hour hand towards the sun. Midway between the hour hand and twelve o'clock I knew was south. It does not matter what hour of the day one does this, the result is the same.

By this means I was enabled to get my bearings, and knowing that I had been travelling in a more or less northeasterly direction the day previous I took a southwesterly course. After travelling for six hours through thick bush, climbing over dead falls and crossing many creeks, I struck the lake where I had left my canoe and found it a little over a mile from where I came out to the lake.

Ice was forming on the lake and the country was white with a blanket of snow. Having no mitts, my fingers got numbed from time to time. I soon launched the canoe and made for home. At last the post came in sight, and I can assure you that I received a great welcome. It was not long before I had a moose steak put before me. This, washed down with several cups of hot coffee, soon made me forget my experience of the night.

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The Lure of the North

By CATHERINE L. NASON

_Poets tell of the sunny climes And speak in beautiful lines Of the flowers, the birds and song Of Summer's rapturous throng._

_They liken it to the freshness of the dew, They speak of smiling skies of blue. The awakening bud--the breath of June Is ever the same old poet's tune._

_But I would speak of the dazzling snows That only our great Northland knows. There is a beauty yet untold A majestic power a poet cannot unfold._

_There is a rapture in plains of virgin-white In the snow-clad mountain height, And a solemnity so deep--austere That one feels a God-like presence near._

_There is a wonder in the deep, deep silence, And the mighty wind's defiance Mingled with the Spirit of Unconquered Might And the undefined mystery of the night._

_The call of the North I cannot define, It has a lure of the great--sublime. Man is a being as yet too small To explain or resist the Northland's call._

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Explorations by Adventurers of the H.B.C.

(_Continued from December Number_)

Arranged by J. PREST

Sometimes more dangerous game than buffalo was encountered. On September 17, Hendry writes, "Two men were miserably wounded by a grizzly bear that they were hunting today. One may recover but the other never can. His arm is torn from his body, one eye gouged out and his stomach ripped open." The next day the Indian died.

The Assiniboines were marching southwest from the Pas towards the land of the Blackfeet. They were now three hundred miles southwest of the French House. To Hendry's surprise they came to a large river with high banks that looked exactly like the Saskatchewan. It was the South Branch of the Saskatchewan, where it takes the great bend south of Prince Albert. Canoes had been left far behind. What were the four hundred Assiniboines to do? But the Indians solved the difficulty in less than half a day. Making boats of willow branches and moose parchment skin--like the bull boats of the Missouri--the Assiniboines rafted safely across. The march now turned west toward the Eagle River and Eagle Hills and North Saskatchewan. The Eagle Indians are met and persuaded to bring their furs to York Fort.

As winter approached, the women began dressing the skins for moccasins and clothes. A fire of punk in an earth hole smoked the skins. Beating and pounding and stretching pelts, the squaws then softened the skin. For winter wear, moccasins were left with the fur inside. Hendry remarks how in the fall of the year the women sat in the doors of their wigwams "knitting moose leather into snow shoes" made of seasoned wood. It was October before the Indians of the far western plains were met. These were the famous Blackfeet, for the first time now seen by an English trader. They approached the Assiniboines mounted and armed with bows and spears. Hendry gave them presents to carry to their chief. Hendry notes the signs of mines along the banks of the Saskatchewan. He thought the mineral iron. What he saw was probably an outcropping of coal. The jumping deer he describes as a new kind of goat. As soon as ice formed on the swamps, the hunters began trenching for beaver, which were plentiful beyond the fur traders' hopes. When, on October 11th, the marchers for the third time came on the Saskatchewan, which the Indians called Waskesaw, Hendry recognized that all the branches were forks of one and the same great river, the Saskatchewan, or, as the French called it, Christinaux. The Indian names for the two branches were Keskatchew and Waskesaw.

For several days the far smoke of an encampment had been visible, southwest. On October the 14th, four riders came out to conduct Hendry to an encampment of three hundred and twenty-two tents of Blackfeet Indians, "pitched in two rows with an opening in the middle, where we were conducted to the leader's tent." This was the main tribe of which Hendry had already met the outrunners. "The leader's tent was large enough to contain fifty persons. He received us seated on a buffalo skin, attended by twenty elderly men. He made signs for me to sit down on his right hand, which I did. Our leaders (the Assiniboines) set several great pipes going the rounds and we smoked according to their custom.

Not one word was spoken. Smoking over, boiled buffalo flesh was served in baskets of bent wood. I was presented with ten buffalo tongues. My guide informed the leader I was sent by the grand leader who lives on the Great Waters to invite his young men down with their furs. They would receive in return, powder, shot, guns and cloth. He made little answer; said it was far off and his people could not paddle. We were then ordered to depart to our tents which we pitched a quarter of a mile outside their lines. Again invited to the leader's tent the next morning, Hendry heard some remarkable philosophy from the Indian. "The chief told me his tribe never wanted food as they followed the buffalo, but he was informed the natives who frequented the settlements often starved on their journey, "which was exceedingly true," added Hendry. Reciprocal presents closed the interview. The present to the Assiniboine Chief was a couple of girl slaves, one of whom was murdered at York ten years afterwards by an Indian in a fit of jealousy.

Later, Hendry learned that the Assiniboines did not want these Blackfeet of the far west to come down to the Bay. Neither would the Assiniboines hunt except for food. Putting the two facts together, Hendry rightly judged that the Assiniboines acted as middlemen between the traders and the Blackfeet.