The Beauties of the State of Washington: A Book for Tourists
Chapter 6
With nature's already liberal supply, and the state and counties blending their united efforts to supplement and conserve, the true sportsman will never regret casting his lot with the state of Washington, where his outdoor propensities may be encouraged to the fullest degree.
The cities of Washington are all beautiful in their natural setting, and reflect the originality, the energy and love for artistic design of the people who dwell within them. In western Washington they are usually protected by verdure covered hills, and built to overlook the Sound, the harbors, or the rivers. The smaller towns nestle close to pretty streams which supply power and water. Snow capped mountains are always visible.
The east side cities are usually near the larger streams and adorned with trees, both native and cultivated. Forests are lacking in the Columbia River Plain, and the brown hills are continually in sight. In the northern counties, however, the native trees and mountains again become more prominent.
All cities are well provided with spacious and comfortable hotels. Theaters, business blocks, school houses, churches, and other public buildings are of modern structure; the streets are generally paved; practically all have electric lights and pure running water. The homes are planned both for beauty and comfort, and are often surrounded by green lawns or gardens where hundreds of species of beautiful flowers reach perfection.
The following pages are devoted to brief descriptions of the larger centers, and the more important trips from each. They are arranged to represent a tour about the state and in the order in which one might visit all, or certain ones only, with the least expenditure of time. The cities given have commercial organizations prepared to give further information regarding their respective localities.
=SPOKANE:= Metropolis of the Inland Empire, and second largest city in the state. Population about 136,000. Its growth was over 500 per cent in twenty years. Situated on both sides of the Spokane River with wonderful waterfalls in heart of city. One of the leading railroad centers in the west, it has five transcontinental lines operating on their own tracks and two others over joint tracks. Its hotels, theaters, public buildings, and homes, are among the most costly in the northwest. Its fifty-two parks, comprising 1,933 acres valued at more than $2,000,000, give the largest per capita park area of any city in the United States. Splendid boulevards within the city connect with broad highways leading to distant points in the Inland Empire. There is a boating course two miles long above the city, a municipal bathing pool a mile from the business center, and a zoo at Manito Park. One may see large manufacturing establishments, irrigation, wheat fields, and many big development projects within a limited area. It is the home of the North Pacific Fruit Distributors, which markets 60 per cent of the apples of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana.
A few of the more important trips should include the following:
Mt. Spokane, 20 miles N. E., highest peak in Eastern Washington.
Indian Canyon, 2 miles west (Indian wigwams still there).
Medical Lake, 16 miles S. W., famous for medicinal qualities of water; one of state's hospitals here. Return by way of Cheney, home of one of state normal schools.
Spokane Valley, fruit section along Apple Way to Hayden Lake.
Reardan, by Sunset Highway, 21 miles, built at cost of $194,000.
Jas. P. Grave's model farm; Country Club on Waikiki Road.
Arcadia Apple Orchard at Deer Park, largest in the world.
Colville Valley, Chewelah and Colville, a rich agricultural valley, good roads, mountains in sight, many lakes.
Pend Oreille Valley, Newport, Ione, and Metaline Falls; see Box and Grandview Canyons; river falls 400 feet in 12 miles.
Steptoe Butte for expansive view of Palouse country.
Through the Palouse to Colfax, Moscow, and State College at Pullman, one of the most remarkable rides--train, auto, or electric.
Kellogg, Idaho, to see largest lead and silver mine in the world.
Northern Idaho, through to Fourth of July Canyon.
Long Lake, 30 miles northwest, $8,000,000 dam.
See also "Spokane Country" under the "Inland Empire."
=WALLA WALLA:= (Many Waters.) The "Garden City," at one time said to "have more bicycles, more pianos, more flowers, and more pretty girls than any other city in the Northwest." Population 23,275. One of the richest farm regions in the world is adjacent. Next to Vancouver, oldest city in the state, and home of first white woman in the Northwest. Picturesque hills, with gentle slopes, usually covered with waving grain, surround it; while many a little stream, protected by cottonwoods and birches, winds towards the larger rivers. The N. P. and O. W. R. & N. railways, and Inland Empire Highway pass through. Trees line the well paved streets and produce a particularly artistic effect. Here is located Whitman College, on the site where Stevens made his famous treaty with the Indians; the State Penitentiary; the Blalock Fruit Company's 1,600-acre fruit farm; old Fort Walla Walla, and the oldest bank in state.
Trips should include:
The Blue Mountains and Wenaha Forest Reserve for wild and rugged canyons and summer resorts.
Toll Gate Pass, 15 miles, a resort, and the only pass to the Wallowa country in Oregon; Wallowa Lake.
Bingham Hot Springs, 40 miles; Clinker Hot Springs.
The famous Whitman monument at Waiilatpui, about 6 miles west.
The Columbia and Snake rivers; Palouse Falls; the Little and Big Meadows.
Vast wheat, barley and rye farms, some of which contain 4,000 acres and more; also large stock ranches.
The Touchet Valley, where diversified farming is successful.
Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy, Clarkston and Asotin, via Inland Empire Highway.
Pasco and Kennewick at mouth of Snake.
=NORTH YAKIMA:= Metropolis of the Yakima Valley, where the largest body of irrigated land in the state lies. Population about 19,000. All points in the lower Yakima and in South Central Washington are easily reached. Business and public buildings are of artistic design. City is symmetrically laid out with very wide streets, well shaded. It grew from a village to the metropolis in a few years, keeping pace with the rapid development evident all up and down the valley. A blossom festival is held annually in the springtime, and the State Fair in September. A sight-seeing electric car will take one forty miles through alfalfa fields and orchards where the results of irrigation are displayed. Good automobile roads extend in every direction.
Trips should include:
A climb to West Selah Heights for a comprehensive view of valley.
Up the Atanum, past Old Mission, through the narrows to Soda Springs.
Moxee Valley to see the flowing wells: on the return Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams are plainly seen.
One through Union Gap either by O.-W., gasoline motor, automobile, or the N. P. Ry. The towns of Sunnyside, Toppenish, Wapato, Mabton, Granger, Zillah and Fort Simcoe, of historic interest, will be seen; also largest area of sage brush land in the state.
Bumping Lake; Lakes Kachees and Keechelus in the Cascades--summer resorts and storage reservoirs.
Horseshoe Bend, past perpendicular cliffs of Basalt, following the American and Bumping rivers to the summit of the Cascades.
Up the Naches Valley on the State Road, past "Painted Rocks."
Into the Tieton basin by pack trains; the mountain and glacial scenery here rivals the Canadian Rockies.
Headwaters of the Cowiche and Wenas--good roads and scenery.
Ellensburg via valley of the Wenas--beautiful scenery.
=ELLENSBURG:= Metropolis of Kittitas Valley, of which 60,000 acres are irrigated, while the High Line, proposed, will water 84,000 acres more. A level country checkered with orchards, oat fields and dairy farms gradually rises to the foot hills of the Cascades, where grand mountain scenery is revealed. Estimated population about 6,000. One of the three State Normals is here. Splendid highways.
Suggested trips:
Cle Elum, 30 miles through the forest, with a good view of Mt. Stewart (9,470 feet).
North Yakima via Valley of the Wenas.
Manastash Canyon with its orchards and farms; perpendicular cliffs on either side.
Lakes Keechelus, 50 miles, Kachess, 45 miles, and Cle Elum, 40 miles. At these three beautiful lake resorts, in the heart of the Cascades, the Government is building, at mammoth expense, a system of storage dams for watering the Yakima Valley.
Wenatchee by Peshastin Canyon, or over Table Mountain, by a 5,200-foot pass from which Mt. Rainier, Mt. Hood, and other peaks are visible.
=WENATCHEE:= The metropolis of North Central Washington, and gateway to the Wenatchee, Columbia, Entiat, Okanogan, Methow and Lake Chelan regions. Situated at the confluence of Columbia and Wenatchee rivers, with the foot hills of the Cascades a few miles away. One continuous orchard is seen up and down both valleys. Auto roads lead in all directions to innumerable points of interest, and the navigable Columbia provides transportation for many miles. A labyrinth of lakes and beautiful farms are within easy reach. The mountain scenery is impressive. For a commanding view one should climb Saddle Rock. Mounts Rainier, Hood and Baker, also the smoke of Walla Walla are visible from some points. Population 5,000.
Suggested trips:
Lake Chelan, Stehekin river, Chelan Falls and Rainbow Falls by Red Apple route and auto stage and boat; Lyman Glacier, 20 miles from Lake Chelan--a star trip.
Glaciers at head of Entiat river, 38 miles. Horseshoe Basin.
Myrtle Lake; Dumpke Lake; Emerald Park, a beautiful natural park, between Lake Chelan and Entiat Valley, reached by Government trail; good hotels.
Waterville by stage along the Columbia, orchards, wheat fields.
Okanogan Valley to Oroville by auto stage or train, boat part way if preferred. A week or more could be spent to advantage. Historical sights are numerous. Near Omak is St. Mary's Indian Mission. Near Brewster is site of oldest settlement in state. Big irrigation projects are seen. Near Oroville are Osoyoos, Wanacut and Epsom Salts Lakes, and the Similkameen river. Okanogan, county seat, Riverside and Tonasket, are passed.
Methow Valley, via Pateros, to Twisp and Winthrop; irrigation, captivating scenery, splendid roads.
Colville Indian Reservation in Okanogan and Ferry counties.
Moses and Grand Coulees; Moses Lake and Soap Lake.
Up the Wenatchee Valley by auto to Leavenworth, from which Tumwater Canyon, the G. N. power plant, and the government fish hatcheries are easily reached; also Icicle River by horseback over government trail; Chiwawa River, a fishing stream, (auto or horse) and Lake Wenatchee, a favorite mountain resort 23 miles northwest.
=SNOHOMISH:= "Garden City," second in importance and oldest in Snohomish county. Located in the midst of the rich dairy country just east of Everett, with which city it is connected by interurban and river boats, as well as by steam trains. See "Everett" for trips.
=EVERETT:= "City of Smokestacks." Population about 32,000. Located on a sightly peninsula formed by Puget Sound and the Snohomish River. Views on every side are superb. The Cascades and Olympics are clearly visible, especially Mounts Baker, Rainier and many lesser peaks, including Pilchuck, always conspicuous, near by. Parks, boulevards and playgrounds, and beautiful homes give artistic completeness. The only arsenic plant in the United States is here. It is an important manufacturing city, especially in lumber, shingles, machinery and paper. Beginning at the city limits a rich dairy country extends to the Cascades. A yearly festival called the "Kla How Ya" is held in July. The G. N., N. P., C, M. & St. P. railways and three interurbans center here, while automobile roads, including the Pacific Highway, lead to the mountains and to lake resorts.
Suggested trips:
Index, a mountain resort in the Cascades, from which may be reached Sunset, Canyon, Eagle, and Bridal Veil Falls; Lake Serene, Lake Isabel and many scenic peaks easily climbed.
Gold Bar (on road to Index), to see Wallace and Olney Falls.
Sultan for Sultan Basin and Canyon. Fishing, hunting, camping.
Granite Falls, the Canyon of the Stillaguamish, and Mt. Pilchuck.
Monte Cristo, Snoqualmie Falls, Darrington, Scenic Hot Springs.
Whidbey and Camano Islands with their many lakes and resorts; Coupeville, Oak Harbor and other towns--some excellent roads.
Silver Lake, Lake Stevens, and Snohomish and Tulalip Indian Reservation.
Startup Pear Orchards, largest west of Cascades.
Utsaladdy, via Sylvan and Stanwood passes of lower Stillaguamish where lie rich dyked lands.
Hazel, 30 miles; Stockbridge dairy farm; oat fields.
Seattle 1 1/2 hours to south and Bellingham 2 1/2 hours to the north, by Pacific Highway.
Snohomish by river boats, auto or rail. Monroe with its large condensery; state reformatory here.
Skagit Valley, Mount Vernon, Burlington, Sedro Woolley and La Conner.
=SKAGIT VALLEY CITIES:= Mount Vernon, county seat, Burlington, Sedro Woolley and La Conner are important centers in the Skagit Valley, famous both for its beauty and because it has some of the richest farm land in the world, extending for miles and level as a table. Dykes are built to protect the country from being overflowed. Oat yields have been known as high as 175 bushels to the acre; while dairying is nowhere in the state more important, two condenseries being supported in Mount Vernon. Two main railroad lines with branches, besides an interurban, serve the section. The Pacific Highway and Skagit County Highway cross at Burlington. Auto trips are made direct to Bellingham, Anacortes, Everett and east into the mountains, visible from almost every point. Many beautiful lakes in region.
=ANACORTES:= A seaport town on Fidalgo Island at western extremity of Skagit county. Population about 6,000. G. N. railway and Sound steamers supply transportation. The Skagit County Highway starts here. Salmon canneries, lumber and shingle manufacturing and ship building may be seen to advantage.
Suggested trips:
South to Deception Pass by auto; cross by ferry and continue to Coupeville and Fort Casey. Splendid roads; rhododendrons.
East to Skagit Valley points. Mountains and water always in sight.
Cypress, Guemes and San Juan islands, and all Sound points.
=BELLINGHAM:= Population about 30,000. Metropolis of Northwestern Washington and fifth in size in state. In vicinity are the largest salmon cannery in world and one of largest lumber and saw mills on coast. The Olympics, Selkirks and Cascades crowned by Mount Maker are visible from its streets. Sehome Hill, where one of the state normal schools is located, permits a view of Bellingham Bay where the ships of the world anchor. In front of city lie San Juan Islands; fishing craft may be seen. 150 acres of parking area have been provided. Pretty roads lead through big timber in various directions. At its door stands Mount Baker, one of main tourist objectives of the northwest, and one of the most interesting mountains on the continent. The annual Marathon races, participated in by the athletes of the world, are made to its summit and back to Bellingham.
Suggested tours:
Mt. Baker, for a two days' trip, or unlimited time.
Olga, East Sound and other points on the San Juan islands; boat leaves every morning. See page 33.
Lummi, Cypress, Guemes and other islands, also Deception Pass.
U. S. Experiment Farm, via Pacific Highway; Government bulb farm, in full bloom during April and May; Country Club.
Lake Whatcom, a suburban resort, 20 minutes' ride; Nooksack Falls; Lake Samish by Samish road through big timber.
Blaine, most northwesterly city in the United States. Birch Bay and Lincoln Park, visiting also Custer, Lynden and Ferndale.
Chuckanut Hill--view of Sound and surrounding country.
Out in a launch to see a fish trap raised--a rare sight.
Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Victoria, Vancouver and the ocean--splendid water trips.
The famous Skagit Valley by trolley or auto.
Anacortes on Fidalgo Island by water, auto or train.
=PORT ANGELES:= Northern gateway to Olympic Peninsula and nearer the ocean than any other city in the Puget Sound country. Harbor is one of the best. Railroads are just building in. Extensive improvements are taking place. It has one of the largest saw and shingle mills in the world. No prettier scenery anywhere.
Suggested trips:
Lake Sutherland, Lake Crescent, and Government Hot Springs.
Sol Duc Hot Springs, the "Karlsbad of America," 45 miles southwest, in the heart of the Olympics. Hotel cost half a million.
Up the Elwha river into the mountains and on to Mt. Olympus.
Hydro-Electric Power Plant, six miles east, built at cost of $2,000,000.00 to furnish light and power for entire Olympic Peninsula.
Sequim and Dungeness, by Olympic Highway, to see largest irrigation tracts in Western Washington. Mountains and Sound are continually in view. Trip may be continued to Port Townsend or along the Olympic Highway to Olympia and Grays Harbor.
=PORT TOWNSEND:= "Key city" to Puget Sound. Situated on Quimper Peninsula with Port Townsend Bay and Admiralty Inlet, Discovery Bay, and Straits of Juan de Fuca on three sides. From Mountain View Park a broad outlook is obtained, which includes, besides the waters mentioned, the Olympic and the Cascade Mountains and hundreds of minor details. Other beautiful parks are Chetzemoka and Lucinda Hastings. Less rain falls than elsewhere in Western Washington. Pretty driveways decorated with rhododendrons, unusual boating possibilities and easy approach to the Olympics, make the region ideal for summer outings. Adjoining the city is Fort Worden, headquarters for the Puget Sound system of defenses, where the 6th Artillery Band, one of the best in the service, renders daily programs. Several of the fastest passenger steamers on the Sound stop daily.
Suggested trips:
Fort Worden by auto and Fort Flagler by water.
Fort Casey, Coupeville, one of the oldest towns in state, and other points on Whidbey Island.
Deception Pass by water, very pretty scenery.
Hood Canal and Discovery Bay, by water or auto.
South through the Chimacum Valley past Quilcene, around Mt. Walker to Brinnon and Duckabush on Hood Canal, returning via Discovery Bay and Saints Rest: from Quilcene the Olympic Highway leads clear through to Olympia.
=SEATTLE:= Metropolis of the Northwest, with an estimated population of 325,000. It is a city of hills, occupying the sightly eminences, valleys and plateaus lying between Lake Washington and Puget Sound, but sloping gradually to the water's edge in either direction. Its entire area is 94.47 square miles, which includes two large fresh water lakes, Lake Union and Green Lake, and nearly encompasses the Harbor known as Elliott Bay. It is gridironed with 237 miles of street car lines while an elaborate boulevard system of more than thirty miles connects its thirty-eight parks, which have a total area of 1,428 acres. There are also a number of children's playgrounds. From nearly all points there is visible either the Sound with the snow capped Olympics or Lake Washington and the Cascades.
Seattle is a city marvelous both for its enterprise and for its beauty. Hills have given way to business blocks and thorofares, and at the same time have increased the area of the city by supplying material for filling in the tide flats, now occupied by the most valuable factory sites. The forty-two story Smith Building is the highest in the world outside of New York. At Salmon Bay the Government is constructing its second largest locks in a canal to connect the Sound with Lake Washington. Six transcontinental lines have their terminals in this city which is also the gateway to Alaska and the home port of the Great Circle Route.
Within the city one should visit:
Lake Washington Canal Locks, Fort Lawton, West Point Lighthouse, Loyal Height.
University of Washington and A.-Y.-P. E. grounds, overlooking Lake Washington.
Lookout Tower at Volunteer Park.
Lookout on forty-two story Smith Building.
West Seattle and Alki Point--waterfront camping sites inside city limits.
Its many beautiful parks and matchless boulevard system.
Outside trips should include:
Mount Rainier, via Tacoma, 2, 3 or 4 days--auto or train.
Sol Duc, the "Karlsbad of America," and Lake Crescent, via Port Angeles, 2 days--steamer and auto.
Snoqualmie Falls (268 feet), 1 day by Snoqualmie Pass Road.
Cedar Falls, Lake and River, 1 day. Mount Si, near North Bend.
Lake Keechelus, in the Cascade Mountains, 1 day.
Hood Canal, 1 day; San Juan Islands, 3 days. See pages 29 and 33.
Whidbey Island--Coupeville, Oak Harbor and Still Park, 1 or 2 days.
Country Club, Richmond Beach and Edmonds--paved road.
Bremerton, to see largest dry dock in the United States, half day. Several good auto trips may be taken from here.
White River Valley, to the south, passing Kent and Auburn. A paved road extends all the way to Tacoma and beyond.
Vashon Island, a large agricultural island and resort region between Seattle and Tacoma.
Mt. Baker, via Bellingham, 3 days. Stop at Everett on way.
Index, Gold Bar and Sultan for beautiful mountain scenery, fishing and hunting; 1 or 2 days.
Tacoma, Olympia, Shelton and Lake Cushman in the Olympics.