Chapter 2

Many other species, of minor commercial value, are sprinkled throughout the forest in sufficient plentifulness to complete the artistic design. There are the wide-leafed maples; the red barked madronas; the pale barked quivering cottonwoods and their allies, the bitter tasting willows; the white flowered dogwood, prominent throughout the forests until late in the spring, and occasionally found blooming in the fall; the gray barked alder protecting the springs and mountain streams; the sturdy oaks, skirting the gravelly prairies; the long lived juniper; and the hardy Scotch broom; besides various other trees and shrubs. Many of these are so beautiful that landscape gardeners find nothing more suitable for decorating lawns or lining the city parks and boulevards.

Here and there are many trees, shrubs and vines that seem to have been destined especially to yield food for the natural wanderers of the forests; for it is intended that nothing shall be wanted in the state of Washington. There is probably no other section of the world where wild berries grow in greater profusion. Very prominent is the wild cherry, the wild apple, the salmon berry, the thimble berry, the huckleberry, the salal berry, the Oregon grape, the blackberry, the strawberry, the wild currant, and the raspberry.

Hiding within the shade of these, playing hide and seek with nature lovers who enjoy threading the romantic trails for which this section of the world is noted, is many a modest flower which in some sections blooms nearly the whole year round, so soft is the climate; while the pink petaled rhododendron, of bolder nature, Washington's state flower, is prominent in June tossing its beautiful head among the dry logs and lining the course of many a pretty driveway.

Penetrating everywhere and saturating the atmosphere with its sweetness, may be heard the music of some rippling stream winding its happy way down the mountain side and playing, as it were, an accompaniment to the duets of soul mated song birds unable to restrain their songs of joy. If this is a wilderness then a wilderness is a paradise on earth.

People considering a change of residence or a vacation trip are always interested in the climate of the locality attracting their attention, for they know that absolute contentment in any clime, even for a brief period, is impossible without a friendly attitude on the part of the elements. So many regions seem to have been permanently blighted by conditions opposed to human happiness, or at least to have been forgotten in certain important essentials when Nature was passing round her favors.

The state of Washington, however, received a full share of climatic blessings as well as scenic beauties. Without extremes either of heat or cold its climate is as temperate as that of southern England--a most remarkable fact when one realizes that its latitude is higher than that of the state of Maine and its northern boundary line corresponds to that of North Dakota and Minnesota. Such equability is caused chiefly by the protecting mountains and their dense forests together with the breezes blowing direct from the ocean and warmed by the mysterious Japan Current.

So uniform is the general temperature, excepting in the mountainous regions, that the same weight of clothing is by many found sufficient the year round. In every section there is a long growing season and only a short mild winter, known on the west side as the "rainy season." There is never danger from blizzards or intense "cold waves," for these are deflected to the country east of the Rockies. Trees retain their green foliage the year round; in most parts there is usually some pasture available every month; and in certain sections many varieties of flowers will be found blooming outdoors in January. Cattle may be turned loose almost any day in the year and the farmer is saved the necessity of spending all his summer's profits in order that his livestock will not starve during a long cold period. The lowest monthly normal temperature, as deduced from a period of years, is for Seattle, 39°; Spokane, 27°; and Walla Walla, 33°. Contrast these with the normal temperatures of the following cities for the same month: Duluth, 10°; St. Paul, 12°; Des Moines, 20°; and Chicago, 24°.

The summers may be considered ideal. A breeze is generally stirring. There are no sunstrokes, for even in the warmest parts the dryness of the atmosphere favors evaporation. The nights are everywhere cool. When millions in other climes are rolling about in their torturous beds, struggling for the relief that sleep alone can impart, the Washingtonian doffs his clothes, tucks himself comfortably between his cozy quilts, and is soon wafted into the land of nod from which he awakes in the morning refreshed and ready for life's battle.

MEAN MONTHLY AND SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF WASHINGTON CITIES COMPARED WITH THAT OF OTHER U. S. CITIES.

_June_ _July_ _Aug._ _Sep._ _Sum'r_

Puget Sound District 57 62 61 57 59 Seattle 60 64 63 58 61 Tacoma 58 63 63 57 60 Spokane 63 69 68 59 65

Chicago 66 72 71 64 68 New York City 69 74 73 66 70 Boston 66 72 70 63 68 Washington, D. C. 73 77 75 68 73 Philadelphia 72 76 74 68 72

The summers, too, are particularly free from excessive rainfall, such as discomforts the people in eastern cities during those months and causes so many disappointments; for 80 per cent of our precipitation occurs between October 15th and May 15th, and 75 per cent between sunset and sunrise, so that the pleasures of the day are seldom marred.

The heaviest fall of moisture occurs on the mountain slopes while the valleys, where the people make their homes, have no more than enough to produce a vigorous plant growth. The average for the year on Puget Sound is about the same as in Chicago and only three-fourths as much as in New York or Boston. The Cascade Mountains prevent as high a precipitation in the eastern counties where it corresponds more to that of California.

The normal annual precipitation during a 36 year period, according to the government statistics, was for Seattle, 36.6 inches; Spokane, 18.8 inches; Walla Walla, 17.7 inches; Chicago, 33.3 inches; New York, 44.6 inches; Jacksonville, 53.2 inches; Kansas City, 37.4 inches; Boston, 43.3 inches; Los Angeles, 15.6 inches; and San Francisco, 22.3 inches.

MONTHLY AND SUMMER RAINFALL OF U. S. CITIES.

_June_ _July_ _Aug._ _Sep._ _Sum'r_

Puget Sound District 1.59 0.67 0.74 2.01 5.01 Seattle 1.41 0.61 0.46 1.98 4.46 Tacoma 1.97 0.69 0.66 2.79 5.91 Spokane 1.61 0.67 0.48 1.01 3.8 Walla Walla 1.2 0.4 0.4 0.9 2.9

Chicago 3.52 3.62 3.02 3.06 13.22 New York City 3.41 4.08 4.38 3.44 15.31 Boston 3.14 3.51 4.15 3.44 14.24 Washington, D. C. 3.74 4.34 4.98 3.25 16.31 Philadelphia 3.27 4.14 4.69 3.36 17.46

The same forces that affect the temperature and precipitation also offer protection against the extraordinary meteorological occurrences that so often terrorize the people in more exposed regions. "The Weather Bureau has no authentic record of a real tornado anywhere in the state of Washington" says G. N. Salisbury, Washington Section Director of the U. S. Weather Bureau. Violent thunderstorms are in most parts unknown. Loss of life never occurs from any of these causes. The atmosphere is always pure and salubrious and the death rate is lowest of all states in the Union, while its two largest cities have the lowest death rate of all cities in the United States, having a population of 100,000 or over.

After all has been said it were best to come and see. Spend a season where no dreary winters will engender melancholy while waiting for a lingering spring, and where no sizzling heat will threaten prostration. Come to a state that is as free as possible from the ills of unfriendly phenomena, and where one beautiful day passes into the next as a pleasant dream shades into the sweetest realities of life.

One glorious expanse of calm picturesque water is the great inland sea known as Puget Sound, extending from the Strait of Juan de Fuca far into the interior of the state of Washington. If the Strait mentioned, together with Hood Canal and a portion of the Strait of Georgia are included, and they will be in this article, nearly 2,000 square miles of mirror like surface are encompassed within the green wooded shore lines of as many lineal miles. With sinuous arms, these waters reach in every direction, reflecting in their depths sometimes the lofty mountains, at other times gardens and farms of unusual attractiveness, and again the modern cities located upon the shores.

Almost everywhere have been sprinkled pretty emerald isles beckoning with all the lure of nature, while tree bedecked peninsulas shelter hundreds of cuddling coves. Near the dividing shore line the "tide lands" reach out from the sunny beaches and supply a sort of neutral ground, enjoyed now by the clam diggers or oyster culturists and again claimed by the enveloping waters.

Rising gently from the water's edge broad areas of fertile lands, which have been released from their forest burdens, are now devoted to the pursuits of husbandry and yield liberally to feed the multitudes dwelling in the neighboring large cities. Here and there patches of virgin growth in primeval splendor may still be seen, but usually, excepting in the Hood Canal region, the forests have been forced back to the foot hills, leaving in their wake the so-called logged-off areas which are in turn rapidly giving away to meadows and orchards. Further back to the east and west the mountains stand guard, while innumerable streams with incalculable water power pierce their sides, transect the lower levels, and pour the sweets of the mountainous regions out into the salts of the deep.

Occasionally rocky bluffs or promontories stand boldly out of the water, and command the view for miles in every direction. Pictures are everywhere presented which reproduced on canvass would insure the immortality of any artist. Altogether the region presents the likeness of one vast kingly garden where every plant that will grow is nurtured and all wonders combine to enchant the visitor.

This beauteous sea is not locked away behind impenetrable bulwarks of mountain walls, like many of nature's wonders, but is at the very door of the people and enjoyed by them while going about their daily tasks. Nearly a million human beings look out upon its placid waters and rejoice at their good fortune in being permitted to play, as it were, upon its banks, and to feel the tender caresses of the soft whispering breezes that make the region such a pleasure ground in summer, and a haven in winter--and there is room for ten times as many to make their homes where these same joys may be experienced.

Not in the lifetime of an individual, nor even in the period required for the most extravagant display of human skill, was this great pleasure resort created. Ages elapsed, say geologists, between the rising of the waters that "drowned" the rivers once flowing where now the Sound reposes and the advent of the glaciers which deposited the fertile sediment to nourish the luxuriant growth appearing on every hand.

IDEAL FOR YACHTING AND CRUISING.

One can pass the entire summer on Puget Sound without seeing a bit of rough weather. The largest ocean liners ride here safe from the storms that pound sometimes against the outer coast line; for its waters compose one great harbor, protected by the forests and mountains. One may see "Uncle Sam's" powerful fighting machines almost any day steaming toward Bremerton, one of the U. S. Naval Stations, where the largest dry dock owned by the U. S. Government is located.

But this peaceful body of water is not for the big vessels alone. It could not have been improved if created especially for the yacht, the motor launch, the row boat and even the venturesome canoe. Upon its surface is held many a local speed contest, and the annual power boat race is run from Ketchikan, Alaska, to Seattle. Conditions here are ideal for the college regatta and for the difficult feats of the hydroplane. During festive days many important events are pulled off, while the happy spectators, dressed in holiday attire, are crowded along the water's edge or perched on the ridges and house tops above.

For cruising, no waters in the world offer such advantages--never threatened by tempests and always within reach of some of nature's most glorious beauty spots. Landing places suitable for camps are easily found, from which short inland excursions may be made through alpine meadows by winding trails to the summit of some mountain or to the shores of some peaceful lake.

Those who are not fortunate enough to have their own craft are not necessarily deprived of enjoying these waters; for regular passenger steamers, of ample capacity and stately appearance make regular trips throughout the year from every city on its shores to nearly every other part of the Sound; while special summer time excursions are made from the metropolitan centers to all the principal points of interest on Puget Sound and to the cities of British Columbia and Alaska.

HOOD CANAL.

The waters that put one in closest touch with the mountains are in the narrow channel, or fiord, known as Hood Canal, extending southwesterly and bending back into the heart of the Kitsap Peninsula. Tourists riding over these waters for the first time are elated with the splendors, and the frequent visitor never tires of the inspiring scenes that everywhere greet the eye. The eastern shores reveal the neat farms and settlements in Kitsap and Mason counties, while the western edge is at the very foot of the Olympic range, whose white serrated ridges are continually visible from the deck of a passing steamer. Easily distinguishable also are the deep canyons cut by the several main streams working their way towards the canal, plunging over rocky cliffs and creating falls of exquisite beauty. The Little and Big Quilcene, the Dusewallips, the Duckabush, the Hamma Hamma, and the Lilliwago, are some of the mountain streams whose canyons with rugged trails are familiar to those making frequent pilgrimages thither.

Other attractive places are Lake Cushman, a mountain summer resort reached from Hoodsport, and the rich Skokomish valley containing the Indian reservation of the same name. At Union City one may take the stage over a well traveled road through groves and vales to Shelton, county seat of Mason county, where regular steamers connect with all Puget Sound points--thus encircling the Kitsap Peninsula.

OTHER TRIPS.

Equally delightful are the little voyages over the main traveled waters of the Sound from Seattle or Tacoma to Olympia and Shelton, to Bremerton, Everett, Bellingham, Anacortes, Port Townsend, and Port Angeles; also out to the ocean or through the San Juan Islands to Victoria and Vancouver in British Columbia. The mountains are always in sight although not so close as on the Canal trip, and there passes a continual procession of groves, hills, pebbly beaches, rocky palisades, gardens, orchards, green meadows, and summer homes.

Entrancing is the view at the sun's rising or setting when a myriad shades of reddish and bluish tints are painted on the hovering clouds, which assume various grotesque shapes above the shimmering waters; and even at night time when threading the channel marked by the twinkling beacon lights, or entering the harbor of a city resplendent with thousands of glittering incandescents.

COMMERCE.

Besides scenes that appeal chiefly to the esthetic are many that suggest the state's commercial importance, for these waters produce many million dollars worth of fish each year, and the neighboring shores have the largest saw mills in the world, supplying a big share of the 4,000,000,000 feet of lumber which is Washington's annual contribution and insures her first place in the Union. Out from Bellingham and Anacortes may be observed the rare spectacle of huge fish traps being raised, with sometimes 50,000 Puget Sound salmon wiggling within their meshes, soon to be preserved in the largest canneries of the world and shipped to all corners of the globe. Big ocean liners heavily laden are seen in the harbors or met upon the waters, carrying away cargoes of manufactured products which for the entire state approaches the stupendous sum of $300,000,000 yearly.

THE EAST SHORES.

The loudest buzz of commercialism is to be heard on the east shores, where fertile valleys and sightly plateaus checkered with farms and gardens stretch away to the foot hills of the Cascade Mountains, comprising five of the most densely populated counties in the state. Here, too, are four of Washington's five largest cities, Seattle, Tacoma, Everett and Bellingham, each the center of a rich territory supporting numerous smaller cities. At the southern limit is Olympia, the state capital.

Without irrigation the region yields liberally of fruits, berries, vegetables, hay, oats, dairy and poultry products, which go to support those engaged in the lumbering, fishing, ship building, mining, and other manufacturing industries, and the diversified business pursuits.

Eight transcontinental railroads operate trains, an almost unbroken string of electric railways render good local service, while excellent roads, including the Pacific Highway, crisscross the section and unite the people with indestructible bonds of friendship and mutual interests.

A number of lakes beautify this region, as well as the other parts of the Puget Sound country. The largest is Lake Washington, one of the grandest in the west, twenty miles in length, forming the eastern boundary to Seattle, providing sites for country homes and parks, and embellishing its boulevard system. Near Bellingham is Lake Whatcom, of similar importance to that city. Lake Stevens is handy to Everett, and a number of smaller ones are tributary to Tacoma.

THE ISLANDS.

Puget Sound would not be nearly so interesting without the many enchanting isles dotting its surface from Olympia to Blaine and within easy reach of the cities located upon its shores. Some are hidden within partially concealed bays and others appear like portions of the mainland until circumnavigation has proved their seclusion. Although a few have sufficient area and commercial importance to form entire counties, the larger number are of rather small compass, and a few are tiny gems suitable only for private resorts away from the busy cities. Nearly all are clothed in evergreen trees, bespangled with flowers and ferns, and girdled with gravelly beaches suggesting the real charms of camp life.

SAN JUAN GROUP.

Travelers agree that no islands anywhere are more beautiful than the San Juan group, blocking the entrance to the Straits of Georgia, rivaling as they do the Thousand Isles of the St. Lawrence or the classical Grecian Archipelago. There are 172 of them, including 122 with names suggesting their own peculiarities and others known chiefly by their location and shown only on the mariner's chart. The largest are San Juan, Orcas and Lopez. Apart from them but closer to the mainland are Lummi, Guemes, and Cypress, similar in formation and of like attractiveness. They are approachable with almost any kind of craft, no great distances separate them, and often there is just passage for a steamer. They offer rare opportunity for playing hide and seek on the water, a game which in days gone by men played in earnest; for the smuggler stealing away from the international boundary line found within their shady inlets havens of safety from the unfriendly eye of "Uncle Sam's" revenue cutter.

And only to think, these islands were nearly lost to us! Had it not been for the wise decision of William I. of Germany in 1871, the Union Jack instead of the beloved Stars and Stripes might today be floating over them. The two distinct camps on San Juan Island where the British "Red Coats" and the American "Blues" waited and watched from 1860 to 1872, are still protected as points of interest; the former near Roche Harbor, and the latter near Friday Harbor, the county seat.

The usual way to reach them is by steamer from Seattle, Bellingham or Anacortes. The boat stops at all the main towns including Friday Harbor, where the University Marine Station and two large salmon canneries are located; Roche Harbor, where one of the largest lime kilns is prospering; and Deer Harbor, West Sound, East Sound, Rosario, Olga, and Doebay, attractive as summer resorts.

Many people spend their summers among these isles. The tourist with limited time should, besides visiting the historic sites on San Juan, make a trip to Mount Constitution on Orcas Island. Two good wagon roads lead all the way to the top, the one from East Sound and the other from Olga. A pleasant day's outing is enjoyed by going up one way and returning by the other. Its altitude, 2,408 feet, is nothing compared with the peaks in the Cascades. Nevertheless, few places offer more comprehensive outlooks. On the descent it will be difficult for the "wise" to resist the temptation to pass through Rosario, the beautiful country estate belonging to Robert Moran, a retired Seattle ship builder, who has harnessed the water power from the lakes lying a few hundred feet above and equipped a modern mansion with all that man can desire or money and art can supply. Who would guess that a great pipe organ might be heard in this seemingly remote spot in the universe, bursting out in unexcelled magnificence, rendering the masterpieces of the great composers.

WHIDBY ISLAND.