The basket maker

Part 3

Chapter 32,012 wordsPublic domain

Figure I represents the consecutive steps in the construction of elliptical bottoms. Cut four spokes of No. 4 or No. 5 reed the length of the major diameter of the bottom, and as many as are desired, the length of the minor diameter. By analysis it will be seen that these bottoms are half round at each end and filled in straight between; therefore, each end requires half as many spokes as would be required in a round bottom, and as many in between these as is necessary in order to get the bottom the required length.

Another important point,—if the spokes on each end are to be one inch apart when the bottom is all woven, the spokes between must be a little more than that distance apart as these side spokes remain parallel during the weaving of the sides while the end ones radiate somewhat with the flare of the basket. Split all the short spokes and string them on the four long ones. Take a pair of the short spokes and put them near the end of the long ones as shown at A, Fig. I. Place a weaver of No. 2 or No. 3 reed, diagonally behind the group from 1 to 2 and bring it diagonally across the front from 2 to 1, then back of the group of four and to the left from 1 to 3, parallel with the short pair of spokes. Next, diagonally across the face from 3 to 4 and down behind the short pair from 4 to 1. Now the winding of the four long spokes commences as shown. This should continue for about 1³⁄₁₆ inches, if the end spokes are to be one inch apart when the bottom is finished.

Bring in the next spoke and bind it into its place. This binding is so clearly shown as to require no explanation. When all the short single spokes are bound in, bind in the last pair as shown, turn the bottom and insert the second weaver in order that the pairing weave may be started. D, Fig. I, shows just how this weave is inserted.

The weaving process from now on is just the same as for that of round bottoms described in the chapter on Weaving Foundations. E, Fig. I, shows the proper relative position of the spokes at the beginning of the separation of the end ones into singles. If it is thought more desirable to have the sides of the bottom a little curved rather than straight, the straight part may be filled in after all the spokes are separated into singles. This is illustrated, and is done with the colored weavers in order to show it more clearly. This filling in process is done with the single weave, over and under five spokes for the first two pieces, then three, two and one. If this does not round the sides to suit the taste fill in again after one or two rows of regular weaving.

When the bottom is woven, insert one stake each side of each spoke and weave the sides as in the usual way. One can easily figure out the proper number of stakes required, in order to take advantage of the decorative features of triple weaving, in these baskets as in the round ones. Figure III shows some elliptical baskets of different designs and proportions as to major and minor diameters and also two kinds of twisted handles, small and large. Basket No. 3 has a bottom with but one single spoke between its ends as shown in Figure I, D and E. Basket No. 2 has two as shown at C. Basket No. 1 has three, and No. 4 and No. 5 have six.

The edge finishes are all as described in chapter III, Fig. II, B, and the twisted handles are all as described in chapter IV. A pleasing decorative feature is shown in the large wastebasket in the left hand foreground of Figure III. Two natural and one colored weaver are used and the stakes are equally divisible by three, the number of weavers. Three rows are woven around, then the green weaver changes places with a white one and three more rows are woven. This process is kept up until the desired height is reached, resulting in a spiral arrangement of spots. Figure III shows progress in working out some simple designs, A showing a large hollow diamond (as easily made solid). Smaller hollow diamonds would look well around an elliptical basket. B also shows hollow diamonds and the Indian “good luck” symbol. This work is done with the single weave on stakes not more than one-half inch apart.

Many fine designs may be “worked up” on plotting paper. Use paper which is lined off about as far apart as the diameter of the weaver to be used and draw vertical lines across this about as far apart as the distance between the stakes.

VII. MELON SHAPED BASKETS

A melon shaped basket seems to me to be the most fascinating of all in its method of construction. Figure I shows the material necessary with the exception of the weavers. Figure II shows the method of determining the shape of the slices or ribs on which the weaving is done.[6] The material with which the two circular ribs are made is stout ash splint. Take two straight pieces the length required for the circumference of the circle allowing about three-fourths of an inch for lap. These may be fastened together to form the two circular rings either by a small bent iron fastener or with fine string. These rings are then placed in the position shown in Figure III, No. 1, perpendicular to each other. The weaver is then placed behind the vertical ring on top of the horizontal ring with its ends projecting toward the right in the direction of A-B. The weaver is then brought over from A to D in front of the vertical ring.

Footnote 6:

NOTE.—Let AA represent the orthographic projection of the two rings. From the point x, with a radius equal to xy, draw the quarter circle. Divide this quarter circle into three equal parts from 1 to y, and connect the points of division with lines to point x. Lay off lines parallel to these one-eighth inch apart to represent the space to be allowed for the weavers. This will show the projection of one side of the basket with the ribs in position. Draw a quarter circle on the right hand side. From the center line, at point 2, lay off distances on this quadrant about an inch apart as shown at 2-a-b-c-d. Project these to the left on to the line xy, and with x as a center, continue these projection lines with arcs crossing the center rib, as shown. Draw chords 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. Take a piece of stiff paper or of the material to be used as ribs and bend around from 1 to 3 to get the true length which will be the distance 1 2 3 as shown above at B. Draw the two center lines at right angles, crossing at 4. Lay off distances 4 5, 5 6, 6 7, 7 8 on either side of 4 corresponding with the distances 2a, ab, be, and cd. On these, by means of arcs, lay off distances equal to the lengths of the corresponding chords 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 in the view AA. A curve tangent to these arcs shows one contour of a rib.

If many baskets of this size are wanted it will be found convenient to make a pattern for each size and mark it properly. If the basket wanted is more than six inches in diameter more ribs will be needed, and the small lay-out C will give the proper suggestion.

Then behind the horizontal ring and up to B, in which position it is shown at No. 1. From thence it goes diagonally across the vertical ring from B to C and upward behind the horizontal, from C to A and assumes the position shown at No. 2. It now goes across from A to D as before, and behind the vertical ring from D to C, below the horizontal; which position is shown at No. 3. From there it goes across the vertical ring from C to B, then behind the vertical from B to A. This method of winding is kept up, as shown at 4, 5, and 6, until a little pocket is formed, as shown at E and F. This process takes place on both ends of the rings. The center ribs on either side are now put into this pocket and the single weaving is commenced, as shown at Figure IV.

Weave three or four rows on one end, then three or four on the other end. This weaving, first on one end and then on the other, must be kept up during the whole construction of the basket.

In the construction of these baskets many will place all the ribs in the pocket at once, but this method of construction is too difficult for an amateur to attempt.

After these two middle ribs have been placed in position and three rows of weaving completed, the other four ribs should be tucked into the pocket on one end and the single weaving continued until four or five rows are woven, as shown in Figure V.

This process has been found to be much easier than to place the ribs in both pockets, because of the fact that in weaving on one end the other ends of the ribs are continually flying out.

After four or five rows are woven the other ends of the ribs may be placed in the opposite pocket and the weaving continued as on the opposite end. Great care must be taken in the shaping of these ribs to see that there is a proper distance between them so that the weaver may not be cramped.

The final shape of the basket depends almost entirely upon the nicety with which these ribs are constructed.

If one wishes to construct the basket so that it will be more than a half-sphere in depth, it can be easily done by making a plan of rings and ribs of the shape wanted and laying out these rings and ribs from that. It may be necessary in teaching younger pupils the construction of these baskets for the teacher to do the drawing and laying out of the size and shape of these ribs, but this process should be thoroughly explained.

If difficulty is found in getting heavy ash splint for the rings and ribs, they may be easily constructed from the hoops of a sugar barrel or even wood from a cheese box, both of which must be soaked and whittled down thin, say to one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness. One of the best melon shaped baskets which I have seen had its rings and ribs constructed from wood taken from a butter box which was about eight inches in diameter. Too much emphasis cannot be placed on the necessity of getting the foundation features of this construction absolutely accurate. This is truer of this shape than of almost any other.

Where it seems impossible to get either the ash splint or other material spoken of, No. 8 or 10 round reed may be split lengthwise and used in the construction of the rings. If these are to be used it will be found necessary to have a greater number of ribs on which to weave than has been spoken of previously. It does not seem wise, however, to attempt a melon shaped basket over four or five inches in diameter with half round reed as a foundation.

“Think it up a little” and see how broad the field of basketry really may become.

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.