Part 3

Without human interference, a large proportion of those that cross the lower part of Little River would doubtless proceed more or less directly to Windy River and cross near its mouth. But the human and canine inhabitants of the Windy River post seem to exert a strong influence in deflecting the Caribou northwestward along several more or less parallel ridges that rise to a maximum height of 40 or 50 feet. These are Little River, Middle, and Camp ridges (map 1). Many animals follow the first of these to its northwestern end, then cross a bog and ascend the Middle Ridge. Some cross the southeastern end of Little River Ridge, scramble down its steep sides by strongly marked trails (fig. 2), and then move across the Eastern Bog to the Middle Ridge. But when they reach the summit, they can see the post directly ahead, and generally hurry off northwestward along the ridge. Presently some may cross the Camp Slough (fig. 13) to the Camp Ridge and then proceed either westward or northwestward. The Caribou have a strong predilection for following the treeless summits of the ridges wherever they are available and extend in a more or less desirable direction. On reaching the vicinity of the Bear Slough, where the three ridges are interrupted or peter out, the animals doubtless turn more or less southwestward to make a passage of Windy River at various points above its mouth. Under the conditions outlined above, it is obvious that some of the finest opportunities for close-range observation and photography lie at the two well-established crossings near the mouth of Little River.

On the dark and drizzly morning of August 24 (temp. 47°-48°) I noticed a number of Caribou, in groups of 2 to 20, traveling northwestward along Middle and Little River ridges. This indication of general activity enticed me to the top of the latter, whence I had a view of perhaps 8 or 10 animals scattered over the Barrens beyond Little River. Several were lying down just beyond the summit of a ridge between the river and Glacier Pond, so that little more than their antlers was visible. With the idea of finding out how closely I could approach these resting animals, I waded knee-deep across a rapid about 100 feet in width, and worked my way up the opposite slope until I once more caught sight of the tips of several antlers. Under cover of a rock and some dwarf birches, I crept ahead on hands and knees, with a miniature camera at the ready. I had arrived within 50 yards when the nearest buck got to its feet and stood looking at me. In hopes of photographing the rest while they were still lying down, I rose to my knees and hastily exposed the last bit of film in the camera. Still there was no immediate reaction on the part of the Caribou. Fortunately there was a cross wind. The first buck was so little alarmed that it leisurely sprinkled the ground. But presently it turned and walked off, presumably giving some signal of voice or posture (such as an erect tail) to the rest; for they got to their feet, not the half a dozen I expected, but half a hundred of them! Though they trotted off toward Windy Bay, they paused within a hundred yards and turned to stare at me. Several more relieved themselves as the first buck had done. By this time I saw that some of the Caribou, including a little fawn, were carrying their tails quite erect, as an expression of suspicion or a signal of alarm. Evidently a majority of the band were bucks, but there were some does, with foot-long horns, and their fawns. On my way back to camp I noticed several groups of Caribou swimming across Windy Bay; perhaps they included the very animals I had so recently disturbed.

In the early afternoon it became evident that a further northwesterly movement was under way along the ridges between camp and Little River. The animals had doubtless made the passage of the river near its mouth. I followed some of them to a bog at the upper end of Little River Ridge, where I began to film several bucks and a lone, inquisitive, one-horned doe. While the latter was approaching me within a hundred feet, I caught a movement out of the corner of my eye, and all at once the bog seemed full of Caribou. There were 75-100 of them, chiefly bucks, and not more than 50 yards or so distant across the open bog. They presently moved on, without haste, and ascended the Middle Ridge.

Several hours later about 50 more Caribou passed through this bog. Then a band of 17 came along, composed chiefly of does and their fawns, with a couple of young bucks; they did not even turn their heads in my direction as I stood in the open 50 yards away. Eventually a herd of about 150 (the largest I saw during the whole season) passed along the well-worn trails on the summit of the Middle Ridge. It seemed to include all sexes and ages, with possibly a majority of does and fawns; bringing up the rear was a limping patriarch with huge antlers, a heavy mane, and a lingering winter coat.

During the remainder of the afternoon several other groups appeared in that general area. About 15 individuals descended Little River Ridge (fig. 2) to the Eastern Bog, but retraced their course after coming close to several of us; they were mostly does, with four fawns and a few bucks. Another band, of all ages and sexes and numbering perhaps a hundred individuals, crossed at the rapid on Little River. The temperatures that had prevailed during this day's marked migratory movements varied from about 45° to 50°. They were low enough to keep the black flies completely in abeyance, and the mosquito season was virtually over. Although I noticed none of the parasitic flies, possibly enough of them were present to keep the Caribou moving actively against a moderate to brisk northerly wind. Now and again a big buck could be seen fairly jumping out of its skin with the vigor of vibrating its sides to shake off the tormentors.

On August 25 (the second day of the big movement) I watched and filmed the pageant of Caribou migration from the southwestern bank of Little River. The turfy slopes of the Barrens, carpeted with low ericaceous shrubs, mosses, and reindeer lichens, and dotted here and there with little thickets of dwarf birch, spruce, and tamarack, stretched invitingly before me. Temperatures ranging from 40° to 51°, with a brisk northwest breeze sweeping down the river, happily suppressed most of the black flies.

The Caribou came along at intervals from the eastward, in bands up to 75 strong, either to make the passage of the river or to continue upstream along the opposite ridge. A small number might make the crossing in one or two files, but one of the larger bands might spread out widely in the shallow rapid. One of the photographs (fig. 7) shows approximately 75 Caribou going divergent ways at this rapid: about 20 passing upstream along the ridge on the far side, including some pausing to feed on the low vegetation; 8 or 9 moving down the slope of the ridge to the water's edge; about 10 bucks, 16 does, and 6 fawns making the passage of the river; and about 13 arriving on the near shore and pausing to feed. The adults were able to step across in the swift water, while the fawns swam part of the way. The bucks were apparently in the minority again on this day.

One group of some 40 does and fawns, after swimming the river near its mouth, came hurrying along the ridge in close array directly toward my station, and did not take alarm until they had arrived within 100 feet. Then they turned tail and, each with its flag erect, beat a hasty retreat. The maneuver made a scene of considerable charm and interest. While I was filming a dozen Caribou in the Eastern Bog from the Middle Ridge, a stray fawn came up and halted for some seconds within a rod of me. The bewildered look in its big eyes was comical though pathetic. In presently dashing on, it passed within a dozen feet.

Late in the afternoon Fred Schweder, Jr., reported about a thousand Caribou, in various bands up to 100 strong, crossing Little River here and there a mile or so above its mouth. They were traveling southwest.

August 26 was marked by mist squalls, a maximum temperature of 45°, and a slackening in the numbers of passing Caribou. Late in the morning a band of more than 30 bucks, does, and fawns crossed the rapid on Little River. In the early afternoon scattering individuals and a band of 15 or 20 did likewise. Presently another band of about 22 animals came (fig. 8); it consisted chiefly of does and fawns, but there were several medium-sized bucks bringing up the rear. They crossed the rapid in a somewhat V-shaped formation, open at the front. The vanguard reached a rocky strip 25 yards in front of my camera and began to feed contentedly on the low vegetation. However, a couple of does still in the water eyed me intently and presumably communicated their misgivings to the others, for all turned and went back through the river without panic or haste, although they trotted on reaching the farther shore. Later there were about 25 Caribou crossing the bay, and nearly as many on Little River Ridge.

The weather on August 27, while mostly sunny, included occasional snow or sleet flurries; the northerly wind was brisk to strong; and the temperature, ranging from 37° to 50°, prevented the appearance of black flies. By 10:20 a.m. a band of about 10 does and fawns crossed the rapid on Little River. Two hours later 12-15 animals followed the same course, and presently 75-100 passed upstream on the far side, with a good deal of grunting. About 2:35 p.m. nearly a hundred Caribou, perhaps alarmed by a passing plane, dashed north out of the Eastern Bog. By 4:45 p.m. 20 or more bucks, does, and fawns swam across Little River at its mouth; several of the biggest bucks, with enormous antlers, led the advance into the water. An hour later, on the eastern side of the river, half a dozen of the animals were lying down, but with heads erect, and facing down wind. At this period of the day several more bands of moderate size swam over to the west side of the river. A goodly number of the animals fed within 25 yards of me for a considerable time.

The following day was nearly cloudless; wind moderate, westerly; temperature, 37.5° to 66°--high enough to bring out the black flies (but extremely few mosquitoes) after several days of virtual freedom from these scourges. Between 11:30 a.m. and 3 p.m. at least 500 Caribou, coming from the east, must have passed the mouth of Little River, some swimming across at that point (figs. 9, 12), and others proceeding various distances upstream before undertaking the passage. A few of the larger bands numbered approximately 30, 40, and 75 individuals. Some consisted largely of does and fawns, some of big bucks. One of the larger bands approached the river on the run, plunged in recklessly, and landed on the western shore some 30 feet directly in front of my battery of cameras. Most of the animals on this and similar occasions were remarkably indifferent to me as I operated the cameras in full view of them. Some among them would approach within a rod or less and stare me in the face without alarm (figs. 11, 14).

August 29 was a cloudy, nearly calm day, with temperatures ranging from 49.5° to 73°--conditions more propitious for black flies than for their victims. There was comparatively little local movement among the Caribou--in the morning two or three swimming across the bay and a band of 20 (6 old bucks, the rest does and fawns) swimming south across the mouth of Windy River; in mid-afternoon a band of 10 running along the ridge on the eastern side of Little River; and about 100 reported during the day in the vicinity of Windy Bay by Fred Schweder, Jr. The "big movement" had passed its peak.

The next day was largely sunny, with a light easterly or southeasterly wind and temperatures of 50° to 68°. There were comparatively few black flies and fewer mosquitoes. During a five-hour vigil near the mouth of Little River I noticed only about 50 Caribou, most of them passing westward by ones, twos, and intermediate numbers up to 17 (does and fawns) in a band. Mike Schweder reported a total of about 200 animals seen within a few miles of camp.

The morning of August 31 was dismal and overcast, with a heavy shower; in the afternoon the sky cleared; wind brisk, south to west; temperature, 47° to 74.5°. Several Caribou passed along the eastern side of Little River, and Fred Schweder, Jr., reported about 300 some miles north of camp, moving in a southwesterly direction.

Clouds and rain ushered in the morning of September 1; the afternoon was sunny; wind light to strong, west to northwest; temperature, 48° to 60°. The next day was partly cloudy, with a mist squall or two; wind light to brisk, northwesterly; temperature, 38° to 51.5°. No Caribou were reported on either day.

September 3 was largely cloudy, with some mist squalls; wind light to moderate, northerly to easterly; temperature, 40° to 51°. There were enough black flies to be slightly troublesome. Two bucks, two does, and a fawn were noted at Bear Slough.

September 4 was partly cloudy, with drizzling rain; wind light, east to south and southwest; temperature, 43° to 58°. I saw about 22 Caribou (largely does and fawns), in several different groups, at Bear Slough and vicinity, and Fred Schweder, Jr., reported about 200 in the same area. Two were noted swimming to the south side of Windy Bay.

September 5 was marked by a driving, day-long rainstorm; wind brisk, easterly; temperature, 43° to 50°. A band of about 20 Caribou (mostly does and fawns, with several middle-aged bucks), besides one or two single animals, were encountered at Bear Slough.

September 6 was a cloudy, raw day, with several snow flurries; wind brisk, northerly; temperature, 33° to 35°. Not a fly was abroad. Two Caribou moved northwest along Little River Ridge; a band of about 75 (mainly does and fawns, but with a fair number of big bucks) passed in the same direction along the Middle Ridge; and about 25 others grazed along the eastern side of Little River. Later about 15-20 more were seen about the mouth of Little River and on a near-by island, and eight swam across Windy Bay to the south side. Fred reported seeing about 300 during the day north and west of camp; they were moving in a northerly direction.

It was cloudy nearly all day on September 7; wind moderate, northerly; temperature, 33° to 40°. No black flies were in evidence. A dozen or more Caribou took to the water from an island in Windy Bay and made for the north shore. A band of about 25 passed along Little River Ridge toward the river's mouth.

September 8 was mostly cloudy; wind moderate to strong, southeasterly; temperature, 37° to 42°. Fred reported a band of about 100 Caribou crossing the mouth of Little River toward the west. A dozen or more swam southward over Windy Bay at the usual crossing-place. Anoteelik brought in 13 tongues from that many freshly killed Caribou; he had secured them with a .22 rifle.

A driving gale from the east, with rain and sleet, continued through the day on September 9; temperature, 36° to 37°. A solitary buck inspected our camp from the south side of Windy River, then retreated.

An overcast sky, with some drizzle and sleet, prevailed on September 10; wind light, east to northeast; temperature, 35.5° to 42.5°. No flies present for some days past. Fred reported about 20 Caribou moving westward in the vicinity of Little River.

On September 11 clouds and mist squalls in the morning gave way to sunshine in the afternoon; wind light, easterly; temperature, 37° to 45.5°. Caribou were noted as follows: five on the east side of Little River; two does and a fawn on an island in Windy Bay; a doe and a fawn swimming northward across this bay; half a dozen on Josie's Hill. During a flight from Churchill to Nueltin Lake on this day, Charles Schweder detected no Caribou at all, and concluded that the bulk of the migrating herds had by this time passed to the southward of his course. During the latter part of August, while descending the Thlewiaza River from Nueltin Lake to Hudson Bay, he had seen thousands of the animals--as many as 5,000 in a single day, although no more than 500 in a single herd.

Sun, clouds, and rain marked September 12; wind moderate to light, south to west; temperature, 48° to 60°. Only two Caribou were reported.

September 13 was cloudy, with intermittent mist squalls and a little sun; wind light to brisk, northerly; temperature, 34° to about 44°. Two bands of Caribou (of four and five animals) appeared near the mouth of Windy River.

It was generally cloudy, with a snow squall, on September 14; wind brisk to light, northerly; temperature, 33° to 41°. A doe and a fawn, proceeding northward, and four or five other Caribou appeared on the near-by ridges.

The weather was clear on the 15th, with a moderate to brisk north wind and temperatures of 29° to 48°; ice at edge of the river. Fred reported about 100 Caribou (none of them bucks) north of camp, and Anoteelik secured 13 east of Little River.

On the morning of the 16th intermittent snow flurries left a thin cover on the ground, but it was practically dissipated by the afternoon sun; wind brisk, northerly; temperature, 30° to 39°. Fred reported three old does without fawns, and no bucks.

September 17 was mostly cloudy, with a little sun; wind light, northwest and west; temperature, 30° to 43°. A single Caribou was seen on the south side of Windy River.

Clear skies prevailed on September 18; wind brisk, westerly; temperature, 35° to 53.5°; ice at edge of the river. A solitary black fly appeared. No Caribou reported.

September 19 was another clear day; wind moderate to brisk, west-southwest; temperature, 42° to 60°. Anoteelik, camping on the Barrens about 2 miles to the north of camp for the past couple of days, reports having killed 20 Caribou (only one of them a buck).

Light rain, soon changing to sleet, and then frequent snow squalls, provided the principal weather elements on September 20; wind light to strong, west to north; temperature, 27° to 43.5°. The ground became partly covered with snow. A big buck, followed several hours later by a doe and a fawn, swam across to the north side of Windy River at its mouth. Ten more Caribou were taken by Anoteelik. Charles considered that the retrograde movement to the north was definitely under way. There had been indications of it on various days from September 6 on.

Except for a few snow flurries, it was largely sunny on the 21st; wind brisk to moderate, north to northwest; temperature, 26° to 34°. About a quarter of an inch of snow remained in sheltered places. A doe and a fawn appeared near camp.

There was considerable snowfall on the 22nd; wind light to moderate, westerly; temperature, 30° to 33°; ice in edge of the river. A large buck left tracks in the snow along the Windy River.

September 23 was partly cloudy; wind brisk, north-northwest; temperature, 21° to 32°; about a quarter of an inch of snow on the ground, and a tundra pond mostly frozen over. Several small groups of Caribou (a doe and a fawn; three does and two fawns; and three others) appeared on the near-by ridges.

September 24 was mostly cloudy; wind moderate to brisk, northerly; temperature, 26° to 41°; nearly an inch of fresh snow on the ground. About 15 does and fawns were resting or feeding quietly on the east side of Little River, and tracks of about half a dozen were noted on Camp Ridge. Charles Schweder reported about 50 Caribou, in three slightly separated bands, appearing during the evening on the south side of Windy River about 2 miles above its mouth, as if contemplating a crossing. He thought they may have been alarmed by Wolves.

September 25 was a cloudy day; wind moderate to light, northerly to westerly; temperature, 31° to 36°; open ground largely bare by afternoon; ice forming on Windy Bay. Some Caribou tracks were noted on the north side of Windy River.

There were clouds, a sprinkle or two of rain, and a little sunshine on the 26th; wind brisk to moderate, southwest to west; temperature, 36° to 47.5°; ground becoming practically bare. Three Caribou were seen beyond Little River, and a doe and a fawn on the south side of Windy River.

The 27th was mostly cloudy, with a thick snow flurry; wind brisk, northwest; temperature, 33° to 40°. Two tundra ponds, previously frozen, were mostly open. Three bucks, a doe, and a fawn were noted on the south side of Windy River.

September 28 was mostly cloudy; wind brisk to light, north-northwest; temperature, 28.5° to 40°; a little snow on the ground disappearing. Seven large bucks (six in one band, moving northward) passed over Camp Ridge, and a dozen other Caribou (including does) were seen beyond Little River.

The 29th was chiefly sunny; wind very light to brisk, west to southwest; temperature, 29° to 48°; ground bare. A band of about 15 Caribou appeared on the north side of Windy River at its mouth. They included four large and two smaller bucks, the remainder being does and fawns. They were apparently traveling south.

The 30th was cloudy, with a sprinkle of rain; wind light, westerly; temperature, 39° to 48°; ground bare. A few black flies were brought out by the mild weather. During an all-morning trip to Point Lake, Charles saw no Caribou, but in the afternoon he reported about 200 on the eastern side of Little River. There were also half a dozen bucks on the south side of Windy River.

October 1 was a rare, fine, sunshiny day in the Barrens; wind moderate to brisk, south to southwest; temperature, 37° to 61°; ground bare; tundra ponds mostly ice-covered. A blowfly crawled over a caribou carcass, and possibly a few black flies were abroad. Two bucks passed from the shoal water of Duck Bay over Little River Ridge. Charles reported about 40 Caribou moving north a mile or two north of camp, and I saw a single buck likewise engaged. During the preceding week or so Fred had seen a good many of the animals between the upper Kazan River and Nueltin Lake; they were moving south and west.

The 2nd was another clear day; wind moderate, southwest; temperature, 41° to 65°; ground bare. About five does and fawns were seen at dusk in the spruce tract near Four-hill Creek.

The next day was drizzly and foggy throughout; wind light, southwest to southeast; temperature, 41° to 43.5°. No Caribou sighted. Eskimos arriving in camp reported them scarce along the way from the upper Kazan River.

October 4 was a dismal, dark day, with steady light rain throughout; wind very light, easterly; temperature, 36° to 42.5°. Fred reported 20 Caribou north of camp.

Snow fell throughout the 5th; wind light, north-northwest; temperature, 31° to 35°. No Caribou sighted.

With 6 inches of snow on the ground in the morning, there was some additional precipitation during the overcast day of October 6; wind moderate to brisk, northeast; temperature, 31° to 33°; waters clear of ice. No Caribou sighted.

October 7 was a generally cloudy day; wind moderate to very light, northerly; temperature, 24° to 29°; watercourses largely open. In the morning Charles reported a couple of hundred Caribou swimming southward across Windy Bay; he considered this a part of the final southward movement into the timbered country--apparently initiated by the recent snowstorm. Later he saw an approximately equal number 2 miles north of camp, moving toward the bay; and Fred encountered about 50 on the north side of the bay.