Part 6
_Accept, Sir, the assurance of the perfect respect with which I have the honour to salute you._
_MATH. MONTMORENCY_, _Secretary, &c._
EXTRACT FROM THE PROCÈS-VERBAL OF THE SITTING OF THE COUNCIL OF ADMINISTRATION, WEDNESDAY, 15TH MARCH, 1809.
_Report made by Mr. Bouriat, in the name of a Special Committee, on Vegetable and Animal Substances, preserved by_ MR. APPERT.
The council referred to a committee, consisting of Messrs. Guyton-Morveau, Parmentier, and myself, the examination of vegetable and animal substances presented by Mr. Appert, and preserved by his process, for more than eight months.
These substances were,
1. _Pot-au-feu_ [a standing French dish of boiled meat, fowls, &c.] 2. _Consommé_, gravy. 3. Milk. 4. Whey. 5. Green Peas. 6. Small Windsor Beans. 7. Cherries. 8. Apricots. 9. Currant Juice. 10. Raspberries.
Each of these articles was contained in an earthen vessel hermetically sealed, the cork being fastened with iron wire and pitched. Proceeding methodically in our enquiry:
We found in the _pot-au-feu_ a jelly tolerably rich, with a piece of beef and two pieces of fowl in the middle. Warming the whole with care, to a suitable degree, the soup was found good, and the meat which was separated from it, very tender, and of an agreeable flavour.
The _consommé_ appeared to us to be excellent; and though prepared fifteen months before, there was scarcely any discernible difference between its then state, and what it would have been, if made fresh the same day.
The _milk_ was found to be of a yellowish colour, resembling that of colostrum or beestings, more thick, as well as sweeter and more savoury than the ordinary milk: a superiority it derives from the concentration it has undergone. It may be affirmed that milk of this kind, though prepared nine months before, may supply the place of the greater part of the cream sold at Paris. What however will appear more extraordinary is, that this same milk having been put into a pint bottle which was uncorked a month before, to take out a part of it, and re-corked afterwards with little care, was also preserved, having undergone scarcely any change. At first it appeared to have somewhat thickened, but a slight shaking was sufficient to bring back its ordinary liquidity. I present it here in the same bottle, that you may convince yourselves of a fact, which I should have had a difficulty to believe, if I had heard of it only, without having the evidence before me.
The _whey_ which we afterwards examined, presented some singular appearances not less astonishing. It had all the transparency of whey recently prepared. Its colour was deeper, it had a stronger taste, and it was somewhat thicker. It underwent a change also with less rapidity, having been exposed to the air at the end of a fortnight; for a bottle opened six weeks ago, occasionally shaken, and ill corked, did not begin to lose its transparency till the end of a fortnight. Its surface at the end of more than a month was covered with a somewhat thick mouldiness, which when carefully taken off, left the remainder still possessing the flavour of whey.
The _green peas_ and the _Windsor beans_, boiled with the attention enjoined by Mr. Appert, furnished two excellent dishes, which the remoteness of the usual season of such vegetables appeared to render still more finely flavoured and agreeable.
Whole _cherries_, and _apricots_ cut in quarters preserved a great part of the flavour they had when gathered. It is true Mr. Appert was obliged to gather them before they were quite ripe, lest they should lose too much of their figure in the glass jars in which they were preserved.
The _currant_ and _raspberry juice_ appeared to us to enjoy almost all their qualities. We found the aroma of the raspberry perfectly preserved, as well as the somewhat aromatic acid of the currant. Their colour only was a little faded.
Such were the results on our examining the substances prepared according to Mr. Appert’s process, more than eight months, and some of them a year, and fifteen months before; for instance, the whey. We could only receive his statement as to the time of the previous preparation of these articles, as they had been deposited but two months with the Society; but even this shorter period is sufficient to give us a favourable opinion of the author’s process. We are the more justified in relying on Mr. Appert’s declarations, as persons highly worthy of credit, have by their own experiments, convinced themselves that similar substances may be preserved for more than a year. Mr. Appert forwarded to the Council mere specimens of the articles I have enumerated; but he prepares a still greater variety of alimentary substances. He did not communicate his process to us.
_Observations._
The art of better preserving vegetables and animal substances in the state in which nature produces them, has been to a considerable degree the object both of pharmacy and chymistry. To attain that end various means have been employed. Desiccation, ardent spirits, acids and oils, saccharine and saline substances, &c. have been made use of; but it must be confessed that these means cause many productions to lose a part of their properties, or otherwise modifies them, so that their aroma and flavour are no longer to be recognized. From this point of view, the process of Mr. Appert appears to us preferable, if without having recourse to desiccation he adds no extraneous substance to that he wishes to preserve. There is every reason to believe that his method is by so much the better, as the substances on which he operates are more capable of sustaining so high a temperature without a sensible change.
Several persons of acknowledged merit, have by desire of the prefects in different Seaports, examined Mr. Appert’s preparations. It is only necessary to read the reports made by these well-informed persons, in order to be convinced of the excellence of the author’s process.
At Brest, for instance, on the 14th of April 1807, the committee named by the Maritime Prefect express themselves as follows:
“It is demonstrated by every thing just said, that all the alimentary substances, in number eighteen, embarked in the _Stationnaire_, December 12, 1806, and disembarked April 13, 1807, and which were examined by a committee for that especial purpose, under the presidency of a commissary of marine belonging to the hospitals, underwent no change while they were on board, and that they were in the same state at the several periods of the embarkation and disembarkation.
“It may be added that Mr. Appert’s process for the preservation of the articles examined, has been followed by all the success he had promised himself; and that with improvement, which he considers as very easy, and finding means to diminish the number of vessels employed, these provisions would offer great advantages on board his majesty’s and other vessels.”
The Committee nominated at Bourdeaux by the Prefect of the Department, assert, positively:
“The detail which we have just given, on the objects prepared by Mr. Appert, will point out to you that they were in a state of perfect preservation; that the means made use of do not depend on the addition of extraneous substances, and that these means are founded on a process invented or improved by Mr. Appert, which do not destroy the perfume or flavour of the subjects submitted to their influence.”
Rear-Admiral Allemand wrote a letter to Mr. Appert, of which I subjoin a copy.
“I communicated your letter, Sir, to the Captains, under my orders, and they tasted the day before yesterday the vegetables I purchased of you fourteen months ago, one bottle of which my _maître-d’hôtel_ had by accident left in the store-room. As green peas and beans are just beginning to be gathered, the officers actually believed your preserved vegetables to be fresh, so well had you succeeded; they wish to purchase a large quantity of them, as well as soup, fruit, and meat in bottles. I shall also take a considerable quantity for myself at the end of the season.
“I am so well persuaded, Sir, of the infinite advantage which would attend the providing a quantity of articles for the use of the sick on board, that if his Excellency, the Minister of the Marine and Colonies, should do me the honour to ask for my opinion, I shall not hesitate to confirm this my opinion, as well for the sake of the government and of the sick, as of yourself. I shall take the earliest opportunity to speak with him on the subject. Accept the assurance of my high consideration.
“On board the Imperial Ship _le Majestueux_, at anchor off the _Ile d’Aix_.
(Signed) “ALLEMAND.” “_7th March, 1807._”
_Copy of a Letter of Vice-Admiral Martin, Maritime Prefect, to Mr. Appert, at Brest._
“I have received, Sir, your letter of the 27th of last April. According to your desire, I have addressed to his Excellency, the Minister of the Marine and Colonies, a report of the examination of a variety of provisions prepared according to your process.
“I shall neglect no opportunity of making known a discovery which appears to be as useful to the State as it is interesting to seamen. I have the honour to salute you.
“The vice admiral, maritime-prefect,
(Signed) “MARTIN.” “_Rochefort, 22d May, 1807._”
It is apparent from these reports, which appear to be almost the same, though made in towns remote from each other, at different periods and by different persons, that the process of Mr. Appert is as certain as it is useful. It affords the means of enjoying throughout the empire, during the whole year, and with great convenience, the productions which belong alone to a part of it, without fearing that they may have undergone any change by their having been transported to a great distance, or from the remoteness of the season of their growth. Merely under this point of view, the advantage appears to be great: and it has not escaped the notice of the poets and amiable writers, who, to amuse themselves, sing the art of cookery. Mr. Appert has repeatedly received from them the most flattering and highly deserved praises.[T]
[T] These _poëtes et littérateurs amiables qui chantent pour s’amuser_, are _M. de Berchoux_, author of the charming poem _la Gastronomie_, and the authors of the _Almanac des Gourmands_, an annual publication written with infinite wit and humour, and which enjoys a higher reputation, and more extensive popularity, than any other work of taste published in France, since the revolution. For an account of both these productions the reader is referred to the LITERARY PANORAMA, Vol. VII. pp. 661, and 719. The Almanac of Gluttons, if it be not the standard of poetic genius in _imperial_ France, is at least an indication of the direction which talent is now taking: a direction, which the laws and literary police of the Napoleon government will not fail effectually to maintain. T.
The process of this manufacturer is not less valuable in the sparing of sugar in the use of fruit; for without the aid of that article, it preserves the juice till the moment of its consumption, when only a small portion needs to be added to the juice; double the quantity would have been necessary to _preserve_ the same fruit. It may be further added that the flavour and aroma of substances are better preserved by Mr. Appert’s process, than by the decoctions usually made use of in order to preserve them with sugar. This will be considered as a very great advantage, when we reflect how prodigious a quantity of this colonial produce is every year employed to preserve the different kinds of fruit and their juices. The establishment of Mr. Appert has not perhaps been duly appreciated by rich capitalists, who might have given it that desirable extension which it will only gradually receive, if the author is abandoned to his own resources.
The success he has already met with, increases his zeal and makes him carry his views further. He promises to transmit, unchanged, the most agreeable productions of our soil beyond the Line. He purposes to multiply the enjoyments of the Indian, the Mexican, and the African, as well as of the Laplander, and to transport into France from remote regions, an infinity of substances which we should desire to receive in their natural state.
The experiments already made on board several vessels, prove that the sick among a crew will be well satisfied with Mr. Appert’s preparations, which furnish them with the means of procuring, when necessary, meat and broth of a good quality, milk, acid fruits, and even anti-scorbutic juices; for Mr. Appert assures us he is able to preserve these also.
With respect to the embarkation of meat necessary for a whole crew on a long voyage, a slight difficulty seems to lie in the requisite multiplicity of bottles. But Mr. Appert will, without doubt, find means to obviate this inconvenience, by the choice of vessels less fragile and of a larger size.
Our opinion of the substances preserved by Mr. Appert, and transmitted to our examination, is, that they were all of a good quality, that they may be made use of without any inconvenience; and that the Society owes great praise to the author for having so far advanced the art of preserving vegetable and animal substances. We are happy to render this homage to the zeal and disinterestedness with which he has laboured to attain his end.
When the relations of commerce shall be rendered more easy, Mr. Appert will require nothing beyond his own talents and perseverance, to establish a branch of commerce as useful to himself as to his country; but at the present moment his fellow citizens cannot better recompense his labours, than by employing the produce of his manufactures.
_Note._--Mr. Appert desires to preserve his connection with the Society, in order to inform them of the result of the fresh exertions to which he is about to devote himself, on the invitation of your committee.
* * * * *
The council concurring in opinion with its committee, adopts the present report and its conclusions, and resolves that it shall be inserted in the minutes of the Society.
(Signed) GUYTON-MORVEAU, PARMENTIER, BOURIAT.
(A true copy.)
MATH. MONTMORENCY, Secretary.
FINIS.
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Transcriber's notes:
In the text version, italics are represented by _underscores_.
Missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired, but old and unusual spellings have been left.
These items were noted in proofing and in some cases, corrections have been made:--
Tomates Left as printed, this has been used all through book.
Explanation of Plate 6. flat pincers and scissars Left as printed.
p. xi. unexpensive process Left as printed.
p. 2. pulpy matter (the porenchyma) This may be a typo for parenchyma but has been left as printed.
p. 20. The form of the Champage bottle Changed to Champagne.
p. 31. bottle boot This is hyphenated everywhere else and has been changed.
p. 47. three fourths This is hyphenated everywhere else and has been changed.
p. 57. windsor beans Both windsor beans and windsor-beans are used, left as printed.
p. 60. I clean the asparagus is if is if changed to as if.
p. 68. ingred ent Changed to ingredient.
p. 86. green-gages Two words in title, but hyphenated everywhere else, left as printed.
p. 95 three fourths Changed to three-fourths.
p. 110. 2. 1st paragragh not labelled as such, subsequent paragraphs are marked 3d and 4th. Left as printed.
p. 133. praccally Changed to practically.
p. 139. That of procuring civil Changed to procuring for civil.