Part 3

In the year 12, having reason to hope that I should be employed to provide some nourishing provisions for the sick on board his majesty’s vessels, in consequence of some experiments which had already been made in the sea-ports, by order of _his Excellency the Minister of the Marine and Colonies_, on alimentary productions preserved according to my method; I made the necessary arrangement for fulfilling the orders I had reason to expect. In consequence, that I might not want too many bottles and jars, and that I might be able to condense the substance of eight messes in a bottle of the size of one _litre_, I made the following experiment. As, in general, evaporation cannot take place, but at the expence of the object to be condensed,[I] I made some gravy, in the proportion of two pounds of good meat and poultry to one _litre_. My gravy being made, and strained and suffered to become cool, I put it in bottles. After having well corked, and tied the bottles and wrapped them in bags, I placed them in the boiler. I had taken out, when one quarter dressed, the best pieces of the beef and poultry. When these were grown cold, I put them in jars, and filled the jars with the same gravy. Having well corked, luted, tied and wrapped up these jars, I set them upright in the same boiler with the bottles of gravy. Having filled the boiler with cold water up to the rim of the bottles and jars, and having covered the lid of the boiler with a wet linen cloth, I heated the water-bath. When it was made to boil I kept up the same degree of heat for two hours, and completed this operation as I did the preceding.

[I] Jellies, essences of meat, the substance of ice and portable soups, which are prepared from the soft and white parts of animals, preserved at a great expence by means of evaporation, and drying in stoves with the aid of hartshorn and isinglass, furnish merely factitious aliments, without flavour or any other than a burnt or mouldy taste.

The beef and fowls were found well dressed, and were kept, as well as the gravy, for more than two years.

§ IX.

_Broth, or Jelly._

I composed this jelly, according to the prescription of a physician, of calves feet and lights, red cabbage, carrots, turnips, onions, and leeks, taking a sufficient quantity of each. A quarter of an hour before I took this jelly from the fire, I added some sugar-candy with some Senegal gum. I strained it as soon as it was made. After it was cold it was put in bottles, which were corked, tied, wrapped up in bags, and put in the water-bath, which was kept boiling one quarter of an hour, and this jelly was preserved and remained as good as it was the day on which it was made.

§ X.

_Round of Beef, Fillet of Mutton, Fowls and young Partridges._

I prepared all these articles as if for common use, but only three-fourths dressed, the young partridges being roasted. When they were grown cold, I put these articles separately into jars of a sufficient size. Having well corked, luted, tied and wrapped them up, I put them all into the water-bath which was kept on the boil for half an hour. They were forwarded to Brest, and from thence were sent to Sea for four months and ten days, together with some vegetables, gravy, and preserved milk, all well packed up in a chest.

When opened, eighteen different kinds of preserved food were tasted, every one of which had retained its freshness; and not a single substance had undergone the least change at Sea.

To the experiments made with these four kinds of provisions, I can add two others made by myself; the one, a fricasee of fowls; and the other, a matelot of eels, carp, and pike, with an addition of sweet-bread, mushrooms, onions, butter, and anchovies, all dressed in white wine. The fricasee and the matelot were perfectly preserved.

These results prove sufficiently that the same principle, applied with the same preparatory process, and with the same care and precautions, in general preserves all animal productions. But it is to be observed that in the previous cooking of each articles, it is to be only three-fourths dressed at the utmost, in order that the remainder of the requisite cooking may be communicated by means of the water-bath.

There are a number of articles which can bear an additional hour of boiling in the water-bath without any danger, as broth, gravy, jellies and the essences of meat, poultry and ham, the juice of the grape and of plants, &c. But there are also others which will sustain a great injury from a quarter of an hour’s or even a minute’s too much boiling. Thus the result will always depend upon the dexterity, intelligence and judgment of the operator.[J]

[J] The celebrated CHAPTAL says, in his _Elémens de Chimie, discours préliminaire_, p. cxxxi. “We hear in manufactories of nothing but the _caprice of experiment_, but this vague phrase has its origin only in the ignorance in which the workmen are of the true principles of their art; for nature does not act according to any principle of discernment, but obeys constant laws. The dead matter which we employ in our manufactories, exhibits necessary effects in which the will can have no share, and consequently can have no caprice. Make yourself acquainted, we should say to the manual operator, with the substance on which you are to operate, study better the principles of your art, and you will be able to foresee, predict and calculate every thing. It is your ignorance alone which renders your operations a constant groping in the dark, and a discouraging alternation of success and disappointment.”

In fact, the operator who proceeds with a perfect knowledge of the principles of his art, and of the results of its application, will never ascribe the failure of his process to caprice, but will impute it to the neglect of some indispensable precaution in the application of his principle; and his disappointment will serve as a guide for him to calculate better and improve his preparatory process. Convinced that the effects that flow from his principle are invariable, he knows that every kind of loss and damage can proceed only from an error in the application of his principle.

§ XI.

_New-laid Eggs._

The more fresh the egg is, the longer it withstands the heat of the water-bath. I consequently took eggs the day they had been laid, placed them in a jar, with raspings of bread, to fill up the vacuities, and secure them against breaking when removed to a distance. Having well corked, tied and luted the jars, &c. I placed them in a boiler of a proper size[K] to give them seventy-five degrees of heat.[L] Having taken the water-bath from the fire, I took out the eggs as soon as the water was so cool that I could put my finger in it. I then took out the eggs and kept them six months. At the end of that period I took the eggs out of the jar, put them into cold water which I set on the fire, and heated it to seventy-five degrees: I found them fit to dip a toast of bread into, and as fresh as when I prepared them. As to hard eggs, which are to be cut into slices and fricaseed, I heat the water-bath eighty degrees, and as soon as it begins to boil, I remove the water-bath from the fire.

[K] This operation performed on a great scale, that is in a larger boiler, would require too much exactness, as it would be more difficult to command just the due degree of heat in such a boiler than in a small water-bath which may be set on and taken off at pleasure.

[L] That is, of _Reamur_, or 200 of _Fahrenheit_, in like manner, the 80 of Reamur, or boiling point mentioned below, is 212 of Fahrenheit. T.

§ XII.

_Milk._

I took twelve _litres_ of milk fresh from the cow; I condensed it in the water-bath and reduced it to two-thirds of its volume, frequently skimming it. Then I strained it through a boulting cloth. When cold I took from it the skim which had risen while it was cooling, and bottled it, with the usual process, and afterwards put it in the water-bath which I let boil for two hours; and at the end of several months, I perceived that the cream had separated itself and was swimming in the bottle in the form of flakes. To obviate this inconvenience, I made a second experiment on a like quantity of milk which I condensed in the water-bath, reducing it to one half, instead of one third, as I had done the former. I then added to the milk, so reduced, the yolks of eight new laid eggs well beaten. Having left the whole thus well mingled half an hour on the fire, I completed the experiment as before. This expedient perfectly succeeded.

The yolk of egg had so completely combined all the particles, that at the end of a year, and even of eighteen months, the milk remained as fresh as when I put it in the bottles. The first also was preserved more than two years. The cream which was in flakes disappeared when put on the fire. Both sustained the boiling alike. From both, butter and whey were afterwards obtained. In the different experiments and chymical analyses to which they were exposed, it was found that the last, being much the better, was equal to the best cream sold at Paris to drink with coffee.

§ XIII.

_Cream._

I took five _litres_ of cream taken with care from milk of the preceding evening. I condensed it in the water-bath to four _litres_, without skimming it. I took off the skim which was formed above, in order to strain it through a boulting cloth afterwards, and let it cool. After having taken off the skim which had risen while cooling, I put it in half bottles, observing the usual process, and let the water-bath boil for one hour.

At the end of two years this cream was found as fresh as if prepared the same day. I made some good fresh butter with it; making from four to five ounces of butter from half a _litre_ of cream.

§ XIV.

_Whey._

I prepared some whey by the ordinary process. When clarified, and grown cold, I put it in bottles, &c. and let it remain in the water-bath which was boiling one hour. However well the whey may be clarified, when put into the water-bath, the application of the heat always detaches some particles of cheese which are deposited. I preserved some in this way two and three years, and before I made use of it, I strained it that it might be very clear. On an emergency you may content yourself with carefully decantering the whey for this purpose.

§ XV.

_Of Vegetables._

As the difference of climates renders the productions of different countries more or less early, and varies their qualities, kinds and denominations,[M] attention will be given by the operator to the circumstances of the spot in which he resides.

[M] For this reason the translator adds the original names of the vegetables spoken of. It may happen that some of the kinds of fruits and roots mentioned by the author, do not exactly correspond with those which are considered as the same in this country. Whatever peculiarities there may be in the articles themselves, these will hardly affect the treatment they have to undergo in the process of preserving them. T.

At Paris and its environs, June and July are the best months for preserving green peas (_petits pois verts_), small windsor beans (_petites fèves de marais_), and asparagus (_asperge_). At a later period, these vegetables suffer greatly from heat and dryness. In August and September I preserve artichokes (_artichauts_), French beans (_haricots verts et blancs_), and cauliflowers (_choux-fleurs_).

In general, all vegetables intended to be preserved should be used as recently gathered as possible, and prepared with the utmost rapidity, so that there should be as it were, but one step from the garden-bed to the water-bath.

§ XVI.

_Green Peas._

(_Petits pois verts._)

The _clamart_ and the _crochu_ are the two kinds of peas which I prefer, especially the latter, which is the most juicy and sweet of all, as well as the earliest, except the _michaux_ (hastings), which is the first pea, but this kind is not fit to be preserved. I gather the peas when they are not too young and tender, for they are apt to dissolve in water during the operation. I take them when they are of a middling size. They are then in a more perfect state, and have an infinitely finer taste and flavour. I shell them as soon as they are gathered. I separate the large ones, and they are then put in bottles, the bottles being for that purpose placed on the stool before mentioned, in order that as many peas as possible may, by shaking the bottle, be made to go into them; I then cork the bottles, &c. and put them in the water-bath, which is made to boil for an hour and half, if the season be cool and moist; and two hours in a dry and hot season; and I terminate the operation as before.

I also put in bottles the larger peas which I had separated from those which were more delicate. These, also, I put into the water-bath, which I let boil according to the season, two hours, or two hours and an half.

§ XVII.

_Asparagus._

(_Asperge._)

I clean the asparagus as if for ordinary use, either with the stalk, or the buds only. Before I put them in bottles or jars, I plunge them into boiling water, and afterwards into cold water, in order to take away the peculiar sharpness of this vegetable. The stalks are placed in the jars with great care, the heads being downwards: the buds are put in bottles. After both are well drained, I cork the bottles, &c. and I put them in the water-bath, where they remain only till the water thoroughly boils.

§ XVIII.

_Windsor Beans._

(_Petites fèves de marais._)

Neither the _feverole_ (the small dried bean) nor the _julienne_, which resembles it, are fit to be preserved. I make use of the genuine Windsor, or broad bean, which is of the thickness and breadth of the thumb, when ripe. I gather it very small, about the size of the end of the little finger, in order to preserve it with its skin. As the skin becomes brown when in contact with the air, I take the precaution of putting the beans in bottles as soon as shelled. When the bottles are full, the beans having been shaken down gently on the stool, and in that way the vacancies in the bottle having been filled up, I add to each bottle a little bunch of savory; I cork them quickly in order to give them one hour’s boiling in the water-bath. When this vegetable has been quickly gathered, prepared and preserved, it has a white, greenish colour; on the contrary, when the operation has been tardy, it becomes brown and hard.

§ XIX.

_Peeled Windsor Beans._

(_Fèves de marais dérobées._)

In order to preserve Windsor beans stripped of their skins, I gather them larger, about half an inch long at the utmost. I take off the skin, bottle them with a small bunch of savory, &c. and I put them in the water-bath, which is made to boil an hour and half.

§ XX.

_French Beans._

(_Haricots verts et blancs._)

The bean known by the name of _bayolet_, which resembles the Swiss bean, is the kind fittest to be preserved green, with the pod. It combines uniformity with the best taste. I cause the beans to be gathered as for ordinary use. I string them, and put them in bottles, taking care to shake them on the stool, to fill the vacancies in the bottles. I then cork the bottles and put them in the water-bath, which is to boil an hour and half. When the beans are rather large, I cut them lengthways into two or three pieces: and then they do not require being in the water bath longer than one hour.

Of the kinds of haricot, of which the seeds or beans themselves are to be preserved, the _Soissons_ haricot is justly entitled to the preference. For want of that, I take the best of any other species of the _haricot blanc_ that I can meet with. I gather it when the shell begins to turn yellow. I then shell it immediately, and bottle it, &c. I put it in the water-bath, to give it a two hours’ boiling.

§ XXI.

_Artichokes._

(_Artichauts._)

To preserve artichokes whole, I gather them of a middling size; after having taken off all the useless leaves and pared them, I plunge them into boiling water, and immediately afterwards into cold water. Having drained them, I put them into jars which are corked, &c. and they receive an hour’s boiling.

To preserve cut artichokes (_en quartiers_), I divide them (taking fine specimens) into eight pieces. I take out the choke and leave very few of the leaves. I plunge them into boiling water, and afterwards into fresh water. Having been drained, they are then placed over the fire in a saucepan, with a piece of fresh butter, seasoning, and fine herbs. When half dressed, they are taken from the fire and set by to cool. They then are put in jars, which are corked, tied, luted, &c. and placed in the water-bath, in which they receive half an hour’s boiling.

§ XXII.

_Cauliflowers._

(_Choux-fleurs._)

I plunge the cauliflower, like the artichoke, in boiling water, and then in cold water, after having first plucked it. When well drained, I put it in jars, which are corked, &c. I place it in the water-bath, in order to give it half an hour’s boiling, &c.

As the seasons vary, and are sometimes dry and sometimes moist, it will be soon obvious, that it is necessary to study and adapt the various degrees of heat required according to the season. Attention to this circumstance must never be disregarded. For instance, in a cool and damp year, vegetables are more tender and consequently more sensible to the action of fire. In this case, the water-bath should be made to boil seven or eight minutes less; and in dry seasons, when vegetables are firmer, and better support the action of fire, seven or eight minutes boiling should be added.

§ XXIII.

_Sorrel._

(_Oseille._)

I gather _oseille_ (sorrel), _belle-dame_[N] _noirée_ (beet), _laitue_ (lettice), _cerfeuil_ (chervil), _ciboule_ (green onion), &c. in fit proportions. When they have all been well plucked, washed, drained, and minced, I cause the whole to be stewed together in a copper vessel well tinned. These vegetables ought to be well stewed, as if for daily use, and not dried up and burned as is often done in families, when it is intended to preserve them. This quantity of stewing is the most fit. When my herbs are thus prepared, I set them to cool in earthen or stone vessels. Afterwards I put them in bottles with a wide mouth. I cork them, &c. and I put my sorrel in the water-bath, which is allowed a quarter of an hour’s boiling merely. This time is sufficient for preserving it ten years untouched, and as fresh as if it was just taken from the garden. This mode is, without dispute, the best and most economical for families and hospitals, civil and military. It is, above all, most advantageous to the Navy: for sorrel thus prepared may be brought from the Indies, as fresh and savoury as if dressed the same day.

[N] A species of the _Bella-donna_ very generally made use of as an ingredient in French soups. T.

§ XXIV.

_Spinage, Succory, and other Herbs._

(_Epinards et chicorées._)

Sorrel and succory are prepared as if for daily use. When fresh gathered, plucked, scalded, cooled, squeezed and minced, I put them in bottles, &c. to give them a quarter of an hour’s boiling in the water-bath, &c.

Carrots, cabbages, turnips, parsnips, onions, potatoes, celery, chardoons, (_cardons d’Espagne_), red beet, and, generally, all vegetables, may be preserved alike, either simply scalded, or prepared with soup, in order to be used when taken out of the vessel. In the first case, I cause the vegetables to be scalded and half boiled in water with a little salt. I then take them from the water in order to strain them and let them cool; and afterwards put them into bottles, and into the water-bath. I let the carrots, cabbages, turnips, parsnips, and red beet, remain in the water-bath while it boils one hour: and the onions, potatoes, and celery, &c. half an hour. In the other case I prepare my vegetables with soup, either with or without meat, as for ordinary use. When three-fourths boiled and well prepared and seasoned, I take them from the fire to let them cool. Then I put them in bottles, &c. and give them a good quarter of an hour’s boiling in the water-bath.

§ XXV.

_A Soup called Julienne._

I compose a _Julienne_ of carrots, leeks, turnips, sorrel, French beans, celery, green peas, &c. These I prepare in the ordinary way, which consists in cutting the carrots, turnips, leeks, French beans and celery into small pieces, either round or long. Having well plucked and washed them, I put these vegetables into a saucepan over the fire, with a largish piece of fresh butter. When these are half-done, I add the sorrel and green peas. After the whole has been stewed down, I moisten the vegetables with good gravy, prepared for the purpose, with good meat and poultry. I let the whole boil half an hour. Then I withdraw the fire to let it grow cool; and having put the Julienne into bottles, &c. I let it boil half an hour in the water-bath. Julienne prepared in this way, has been kept by me more than two years.

The Julienne _au maigre_ is prepared in the same manner, except that, instead of gravy, I moisten my vegetables, when well dressed, with a clear vegetable soup, either of French beans, lentils, or large green peas, which I have preserved; and I give it in like manner half an hour’s boiling in the water-bath.

§ XXVI.

_Vegetable Soup._

(_Coulis de Racines._)

I compose and prepare a vegetable soup in the usual way; I make the soup so rich, that a bottle of the size of a _litre_ can supply a dish for twelve persons, by adding two _litres_ of water to it, before it is made use of. When it has grown cool, I put it in bottles, to give it half an hour’s boiling in the water-bath.

§ XXVII.

_Love-Apples._

(_Tomates, ou Pommes d’Amour._)

I gather love-apples very ripe, when they have acquired their beautiful colour. Having washed and drained them, I cut them into pieces, and dissolve them over the fire in a copper vessel well tinned. When they are well dissolved and reduced one third in compass, I strain them through a sieve sufficiently fine to hold the kernels. When the whole has passed through, I replace the decoction on the fire, and I condense it till there remains only one third of the first quantity. Then I let them become cool in stone pans, and put them in bottles, &c., in order to give them one good boiling only, in the water-bath.

I have not yet tried any experiments with the flower of the love-apple, but there is no doubt that this new method will furnish means of deriving, at a slight expence, a great value from them also.

§ XXVIII.

_Herbs and Medicinal Plants._

(_Plantes Potagères et Médicinales._)

I filled a bottle with mint (_menthe poivrée_) in branches and full of flowers. I stirred it with a stick to make the bottle hold a greater quantity of it. I corked it well, &c. and gave it a slight boiling in the water-bath. It was perfectly preserved.

The same may be done with all plants to be preserved in bunches. The operator will calculate the degree of heat which it will be necessary to give to the several subjects of his experiment.[O]

[O] The mode of extracting the juice of plants by means of water has more or less inconvenience. All those juices which have a principle that is very volatile and easy to evaporate, lose infinitely, even in warm water; much more so therefore, when the heat of the water is raised to a higher degree, and when the plants have been left for a long time in digestion.

Aromatic vegetables are infused, when the object is to preserve the aroma, and not impart to the water the extractive principle which the plant contains. Therefore, tea and coffee are made by infusion. But all the theories ancient and modern, and all the new apparatus employed to seize and hold fast the aroma of the coffee are still very deficient.