Part 1

THE ART OF PRESERVING, _&c. &c. &c._

THE ART OF PRESERVING ALL KINDS OF _Animal and Vegetable Substances_ FOR SEVERAL YEARS.

A WORK PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF THE _FRENCH MINISTER OF THE INTERIOR_, On the Report of the Board of Arts and Manufactures,

BY M. APPERT.

TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH.

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR BLACK, PARRY, AND KINGSBURY, BOOKSELLERS TO THE HON. EAST-INDIA COMPANY, LEADENHALL STREET.

1812.

Printed by Cox and Baylis, Great Queen Street.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Page Explanation of the Plate viii

Advertisement ix Letter of the Minister of the Interior xxi Certificate of the Board of Arts xxiii Letter to General Caffarelli from the Council of Health xxiv

§ 1. _The Art of Preserving, &c._ 1 2. Description of my Rooms, &c. 11 3. Of Bottles and Vessels 18 4. Of Corks 20 5. Of Corking 22 6. The Means of distinguishing defective Bottles, &c. 37

_Description of the Author’s Process_ 41 § 7. Boiled Meat 41 8. Gravy 43 9. Broth, or Jelly 46 10. Round of Beef, Fillet of Mutton, Fowls, and young Partridges 47 11. New-laid Eggs 50 12. Milk 52 13. Cream 55 14. Whey 56 15. Vegetables 57 16. Green Peas 58 17. Asparagus 60 18. Windsor Beans 61 § 19. Peeled Windsor Beans 63 20. French Beans 63 21. Artichokes 65 22. Cauliflowers 66 23. Sorrel 68 24. Spinage, Succory, and other Herbs 69 25. A Soup called Julienne 71 26. Vegetable Soup 73 27. Love-Apples 74 28. Herbs and Medicinal Plants 75 29. The Juices of Herbs 77 30. Fruits and their Juices 78 31. White and Red Currants in Bunches 79 32. White and Red Currants stripped 80 33. Cherries, Raspberries, Mulberries 80 34. Juice of Red Currants 81 35. Strawberries 82 36. Apricots 83 37. Peaches and Nectarines 85 38. Prunes from Green-Gages and Plumbs 86 39. Pears of every Kind 88 40. Chesnuts, Truffles, and Mushrooms 89 41. The Juice of the Grape or Must 91

_Of the Mode of making Use of the Substances which have been preserved_ 93 § 42. Meat, Game, Poultry, Fish 93 43. Jellies made of Meat and Poultry 97 44. Milk and Cream 98 45. Vegetables 99 § 46. French Beans 100 47. Peas, Beans, &c. 101 48. Spinage and Succory 106 49. Vegetable Soups 107 50. Tomates and Herbs 108 51. Preserved Fruits, Marmelades, &c. 109 52. Currant-Jam 113 53. Syrup of Currants 114 54. Ices 116 55. Cordials 117 56. Chesnuts, Truffles, Mushrooms 120 57. Grape Juice, or Must 121 Preparation of Grape Syrup 122 Syrups and Ratafies 125 58. General Observations 130 59. Practical Remarks 135

Letter from the Secretary of the Society for the Encouragement of National Industry 142

Report of the Society 145

EXPLANATION OF THE PLATE.

_Fig. 1._ A reel with two iron bars, made use of to double the wire, and cut the doubled wire twice the length required for fixing the corks in the bottles.

_Fig. 2._ A small machine for twisting the wire one-third of its length after having been doubled by fig. 1.

_Fig. 3._ An instrument for compressing (and, as it were, biting) the corks three quarters of their length, beginning at the smallest end.

_Fig. 4._ A stool stuffed with straw, furnished with a wooden stand on which the bottles may be placed to be tied. The same stool will serve to sit on during the corking.

_Fig. 5._ A hollow block of wood, called a bottle-boot (Casse-Bouteille), within which the bottle is set when it is to be corked. This bottle-boot is furnished with a strong bat for beating in the corks.

_Fig. 6._ A front and side view of pointed pincers, used for twisting the wire employed to keep on the corks, and for cutting off the superfluous ends of the wire. I make use of flat pincers and scissars for this operation.

ADVERTISEMENT.

In an advertisement prefixed to the pamphlet, of which the following sheets are a translation, the author publishes his address: “_Quai Napoléon, au coin de la rue de la Colombe, No. 4, dans la Cité, à Paris_;” and offers for sale there, an assortment of provisions, preserved by the process, of which an account is here communicated to the public. As the book itself is a recommendation of the author’s own goods, it has been thought proper to add to his account of his process, a translation of the authorities and testimonies by which his own statements are authenticated; notwithstanding the repetitions which are in consequence admitted. The recommendation of the process by the French Minister immediately follows. The more elaborate Report of the Paris Society for the Encouragement of National Industry, will be found at the end of the work.

It is needless to anticipate the author’s display of the advantages which must flow from a simple and unexpensive process of keeping fresh articles of animal and vegetable food. If this can be effected for only _one year_, that is, from the season of produce through the seasons of scarcity; if no other articles, for instance, than eggs, cream, and vegetables, can be preserved in their full flavour and excellence during a long winter, there is not a mistress of a family in the kingdom, rich enough to lay by a stock of those articles, and not too rich to despise the economy of a family, who will not find herself benefitted by the perusal of the small work here put within her reach; and there is no reason to suspect the correctness of this part of the author’s statements. This, however, is but one of the more obvious benefits of his process; and if thus much be ascertained, then an interminable prospect of resources is opened, which the State, still more than the individual, will be called upon to employ.

The author, in his enumeration of the advantages to be derived from his process, places at the head, the saving it will occasion in the consumption of sugar. This process, added to recent improvement in the art of preparing grape syrup, holds forth, in his opinion, a prospect of relief to the suffering proprietors of French vineyards. This statement will have been listened to with great complacency by the French government, which so ostentatiously avows the determination to compel the whole Continent to subsist on its own produce, and dispense with the more luxurious of transatlantic commodities. Our country, however, from its soil and climate, can take little or no share in this branch of the application of the author’s process.

On the other hand it offers us incalculable benefits in the equipment and victualling of our fleets, and in providing for the health and comfort of the floating defence of the country, as well as of that numerous and meritorious class of men, to which the nation owes so much of its prosperity. Whatever promises an improvement in the condition of every order of men who subsist on the Ocean, must be considered as an object of national concern. The French government, at least on the part of some of its members in the subordinate branches of its administration, has taken the lead in recommending the author’s process to the attention of public functionaries. From the superior activity, as well as more enlightened discernment of the people of this country, we may expect that our author’s process will excite equally the notice of the government and country at large; and we trust that government-contractors and commissioners, as well as the pursers of men of war, and the stewards of merchantmen, will not be the last to examine for themselves the promising statements of our author.

From the public papers we learn that a patent has been taken out for preserving provisions according to the process described in this book. We do not pretend to determine how far this patent may interfere with the adoption by other persons of this same process as a manufactory and trade; but, it is certain, that on the small scale on which provisions would be preserved for single families, every person will be at liberty to avail himself of the instructions he may meet with in this volume.

It was thought less objectionable to insert unnecessary matter, than to omit what to some readers might be useful or interesting. Every thing, therefore, has been translated, and we have even copied the author’s plate of the machinery used in corking bottles, though from our improved state of mechanics, the greater part of our readers will stand in no need of its assistance, similar machines being in common use by the wine-coopers, &c.

THE MINISTER OF THE INTERIOR, COUNT OF THE EMPIRE, TO M. APPERT, &c.

_Paris, 30th January 1810._

Second Division. BOARD OF ARTS AND MANUFACTURES.

My Board of Arts and Manufactures[A] has reported to me, Sir, the examination it has made of your process for the preservation of fruits, vegetables, meat, soup, milk, &c. and from that report no doubt can be entertained of the success of such process. As the preservation of animal and vegetable substances may be of the utmost utility in Sea-voyages, in hospitals and domestic economy, I deem your discovery worthy an especial mark of the good will of the government. I have in consequence acceded to the recommendation made me by my council to grant you a recompence of 12,000 francs.[B] In so doing I had in view the assigning you the reward due to the inventors of useful processes, and also the indemnifying you for the expences you have been obliged to incur, either in the forming your establishment or in the experiments necessary to establish the success of your process. You shall be immediately informed when you may repair to the public treasury and receive the 12,000 francs.

It appears to me of importance, Sir, that you should spread the knowledge of your preserving process. I desire, therefore, that agreeably to your own proposal, you will digest a detailed and exact description of your process. This description, which you will remit to my Board of Arts and Manufactures, shall be printed at your expence, after it shall have been examined. You will then transmit me 200 copies. The transmission of these copies being the only condition I impose on you for the payment of the 12,000 francs, I doubt not you will hasten to fulfil it. I desire, Sir, you will acknowledge the receipt of my letter.

Accept assurances, &c. (Signed) MONTALIVET.

[A] _Mon Bureau consultatif des Arts et Manufactures._

[B] About £500 sterling.

* * * * *

BOARD OF ARTS AND MANUFACTURES.

The undersigned Members of the Board of Arts and Manufactures attached to the Minister of the Interior, being required by his Excellency to examine the description of the process of Mr. Appert for the preservation of alimentary substance, certify that the details it contains, as well on the mode of carrying on the process as on the results, are exactly conformable to the various experiments which Mr. Appert has made before them, by order of his Excellency.

(Signed) BORDEL, GAY-LUSSAC, SCIPION-PERRIER, MOLARD.

_Paris, 19th April 1810._

* * * * *

_Copy of a Letter written to General Caffarelli, Maritime Prefect at Brest, by the Council of Health, dated Brumaire, year 12._

The provisions prepared according to the process of Citizen Appert and sent to this port by the Minister of Marine, have, after lying in the roads three months, been found in the following condition.

The broth or soup (_bouillon_) in bottles was good; the _bouillon_ with a _bouilli_ in a vessel apart was also good, but weak; the _bouilli_ itself was very eatable.

The beans and green peas, prepared both with meat and vegetable soup, had all the freshness and flavour of recently gathered vegetables.

(Signed) DUBREUIL, BILLARD, DURET, PICHON, THAUMER.

True Copy.

J. MIRIEL, _Secretary_.

THE

ART OF PRESERVING,

_&c. &c. &c._

§ I.

All the expedients hitherto made use of for preserving alimentary and medicinal substances, may be reduced to two principal methods; that of dessication; and that of mingling, in greater or less quantities, a foreign substance for the purpose of impeding fermentation or putrefaction.

It is by the former of these methods that we are furnished with smoaked and hung meat, dried fish, fruits, and vegetables. By the latter, we obtain fruits and other vegetable substances preserved in sugar, the juices and decoctions of plants reduced to syrups and essences, all kinds of pickles, salted meat and vegetables. But each of these modes has its peculiar inconveniences. Dessication takes away the odour, changes the taste of the juices, and hardens the fibrous or pulpy matter (the _porenchyma_).

Sugar, from the strength of its own flavour, conceals and destroys in part other flavours, even that, the enjoyment of which we wish to preserve, such as the pleasant acidity of many fruits. A second inconvenience is this, that a large quantity of sugar is required in order to preserve a small quantity of some other vegetable matter; and hence the use of it is not only very costly, but even in many cases pernicious. Thus the juices of certain plants cannot be reduced to a syrup or essence, but by means of nearly double the quantity of sugar. It results from this, that those syrups or essences contain much more sugar than any medicinal substance, and that most frequently the sugar counteracts the operation of the medicine, and is hurtful to the patient.

Salt communicates an unpleasant acerbity to substances, hardens the animal fibre, and renders it difficult of digestion. It contracts the animal parenchyma.[C] On the other hand, as it is indispensable to remove, by means of water, the greater part of the salt employed; almost all the principles which are soluble in cold water, are lost when the salt is taken away: there remains nothing but the fibrous matter, or parenchyma; and even that, as has been said, undergoes a change.

[C] “The salt meat with which the crews of vessels are fed, appears to be one of the principal causes of the scurvy. It seems that the same causes which operate to prevent the fermentation of meat, renders it also difficult of digestion. Though a small quantity of salt may be an obstacle in the way of putrefaction, the too abundant and frequent use which is made of it, must cause great obstructions in the smaller vessels of the body, and these obstructions cannot fail to overload the stomach of men who have to digest dry vegetables and biscuits, which sailors advanced in years are not always able to chew completely. Bad digestion and obstruction in the smaller vessels may occasionally give rise to ulcers in the mouth, and spots, which denote the scurvy.”--_Santé des Marins, by Duhamel._

Vinegar can seldom be made use of, but in the preparation of certain articles for seasoning.

I shall not enter into any details concerning what has been said and published on the art of preserving alimentary substances. I shall only observe, that as far as my knowledge extends, no author, either ancient or modern, has ever pointed out, or even led to the suspicion, of the principle which is the basis of the method I propose.

It is known, how much, within a certain period, the public attention, both at Paris and in the departments, has been directed towards the means of diminishing the consumption of sugar, by supplying its place by the use of various extracts, or essences, of indigenous substances. The government, whose philanthropic views are turned towards all useful objects, does not cease to invite all those who pursue the arts and sciences, to investigate the means of drawing the utmost advantage from the productions of our soil, in order to develope, to the utmost, our agriculture and manufactures, and so diminish the consumption of foreign commodities.

In order to attain the same end, the Society for the Promotion of National Industry[D] stimulates, by the offer of flattering rewards, all those whose talents and labours are directed towards discoveries, from which the nation and humanity may draw substantial benefits. Animated by this laudable zeal, the Agricultural Society, by its resolution of the 21st of June 1809, and its official notification of it, the 15th of the July following, made an appeal to the whole nation, in order to collect all the information and documents which might contribute to the composition of a work on the art of preserving, by the best possible means, every kind of alimentary substance.

[D] _La Société d’Encouragement pour l’Industrie nationale._

It was after invitations of so great weight, that I resolved to make known a method of effecting this object, of great facility in the execution, and at the same time very cheap, and which, by the extension it admits of, may afford numerous advantages to society.

This method is not a vain theory. It is the fruit of reflection, investigation, long attention, and numerous experiments, the results of which, for more than ten years, have been so surprising, that notwithstanding the proof acquired by repeated practice, that provisions may be preserved two, three, and six years, there are many persons who still refuse to credit the fact.

Brought up to the business of preserving alimentary substance by the received methods; having spent my days in the pantries, the breweries, store-houses, and cellars of Champagne, as well as in the shops, manufactories, and warehouses of confectioners, distillers, and grocers; accustomed to superintend establishments of this kind for forty-five years, I have been able to avail myself, in my process, of a number of advantages, which the greater number of those persons have not possessed, who have devoted themselves to the art of preserving provisions.

I owe to my extensive practice, and more especially to my long perseverance, the conviction:

1st. That fire has the peculiar property, not only of changing the combination of the constituent parts of vegetable and animal productions, but also of retarding, for many years at least, if not of destroying, the natural tendency of those same productions to decomposition.

2d. That the application of fire in a manner variously adapted to various substances, after having with the utmost care and as completely as possible, deprived them of all contact with the air, effects a perfect preservation of those same productions, with all their natural qualities.

Before I state the details of my process, I ought to observe that it consists principally,

1st. In inclosing in bottles the substances to be preserved.

2d. In corking the bottles with the utmost care; for it is chiefly on the corking that the success of the process depends.

3d. In submitting these inclosed substances to the action of boiling water in a water-bath (BALNEUM MARIAE), for a greater or less length of time, according to their nature, and in the manner pointed out with respect to each several kind of substance.

4th. In withdrawing the bottles from the water-bath at the period described.

§ II.

_Description of my Rooms set apart for carrying on the Process on a large Scale._[E]

My laboratory consists of four apartments. The first of these is furnished with all kinds of kitchen utensils, stoves, and other apparatus, necessary for dressing the animal substances to be preserved, as well as with a kettle for broth, gravy, &c. containing 180 French pints, raised on brick work. This kettle is provided with a pot to be put within it, pierced with holes like a skimmer, with divisions for holding various kinds of meat and poultry. This pot can be put into and taken out of the kettle with ease. The kettle is provided with a wide cock, to which is fitted, within, a little rose, like that of a watering-pot, covered with a piece of boulting-cloth. In this way I can procure broth or gravy quite clear, and ready to be put into bottles.

[E] It is obvious, that for the use of private families, and for carrying on the process on a small scale, nothing further will be requisite, than such vessels and other conveniences as are found in every house in the country, where provisions are cured for the consumption of the family during winter.

The second apartment is appropriated to the preparing of milk, cream, and whey.

The third is used for corking and tying the bottles and vessels, and putting them into bags.

The fourth is furnished with three large copper boilers, placed upon stones raised on brick work. These boilers are all furnished with a stout lid, fitted, to rest upon the vessels within. Each boiler is furnished with a wide cock below, in order to let out the water at a proper time. These large boilers are destined to receive, generally, all the objects intended to be preserved, in order to apply the action of heat to them in a suitable manner; and thus they constitute so many water-baths.[F]