Part 8

Extract of acacia, 1 pint. " jasmine, } " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange, } " tubereuse, } " civet, 1/4 " Otto of almonds, 10 drops.

BOUQUET D'AMOUR.

Esprit de rose, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " violette, } " cassie, } Extract of musk, } of each, 1/2 " " ambergris, }

Mix and filter.

BOUQUET DES FLEURS DU VAL D'ANDORRE.

Extrait de jasmine, } " rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " violette, } " tuberose, } Extract of orris, 1 " Otto of geranium, 1/4 oz.

BUCKINGHAM PALACE BOUQUET.

Extrait de fleur d'orange,} " cassie, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " jasmine, } " rose, } Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 " " ambergris, } Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm. " lavender, 1/2 " " rose, 1 "

BOUQUET DE CAROLINE; ALSO CALLED BOUQUET DES DELICES.

Extrait de rose, } " violette, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " tuberose, } Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 " " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, } " Limette, } of each, 1/4 oz. " cedret, }

THE COURT NOSEGAY.

Extrait de rose, } " violette, } of each, 1 pint. " jasmine, } Esprit de rose triple, 1 " Extract of musk, } of each, 1 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of lemon, } of each, 1/2 oz. " bergamot, } " neroli, 1 drachm.

EAU DE CHYPRE.

This is an old-fashioned French perfume, presumed to be derived from the _Cyperus esculentus_ by some, and by others to be so named after the Island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus--

Extract of musk, 1 pint. " ambergris, } " vanilla, } of each, 1/2 " " tonquin bean, } " orris, } Esprit de rose triple, 2 pints.

The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be made.

EMPRESS EUGENIE'S NOSEGAY.

Extract of musk, } " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. " tonquin, } " neroli, } " geranium, } " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 " " santal, }

ESTERHAZY BOUQUET.

Extrait de fleur d'orange (from pomade), 1 pint. Esprit de rose triple, 1 " Extract of vitivert, } " vanilla, } of each, 2 " " orris, } " tonquin, } Esprit de neroli, 1 " Extract of ambergris, 1/2 " Otto of santal, 1/2 drachm. " cloves, 1/2 "

Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it is the vitivert that gives this bouquet its peculiar character. Few perfumes have excited greater _furor_ while in fashion.

ESS BOUQUET.

The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of the original article, more particularly on the continent. In many of the shops in Germany and in France will be seen bottles labelled in close imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co., Cockspur Street, London, who are, in truth, the original makers.

Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. Extract of ambergris, 2 oz. " orris, 8 " Otto of lemons, 1/4 " " bergamot, 1 "

The name "Ess" bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere contraction of "essence" of bouquet.

EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La première qualité._)

Spirit (from grape), 60 over proof, 6 gallons. Otto of neroli, _Petale_, 3 oz. " " _Bigarade_, 1 " " rosemary, 2 " " orange-peel, 5 " " citron-peel, 5 " " bergamot-peel, 2 "

Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly quiet, before bottling.

EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La deuxième qualité._)

Spirit (from corn), 6 gallons. Otto of neroli, _Petit-grain_, 2 oz. " " _Petale_, 1/2 " " rosemary, 2 " " orange-peel, } " lemon, } of each, 4 " " bergamot, }

Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced to the public as a sort of "cure-all," a regular "elixir of life," it now takes its place, not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial qualities we can say nothing, such matter being irrelevant to the purpose of this book. Considered, however, as a perfume, with the public taste it ranks very high; and although it is exceedingly volatile and evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called "refreshing." Whether this be due to the rosemary or to the spirit, we cannot say, but think something may be attributed to both. One important thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and that is, the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture. The utter impossibility of making brandy with English spirit in any way to resemble the real Cognac, is well known. It is equally impossible to make Eau de Cologne with English spirit, to resemble the original article. To speak of the "purity" of French spirit, or of the "impurity" of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact is, that spirit derived from grapes, and spirit obtained from corn, have each so distinct and characteristic an aroma, that the one cannot be mistaken for the other. The odor of grape spirit is said to be due to the oeanthic ether which it contains. The English spirit, on the other hand, owes its odor to fusel oil. So powerful is the oeanthic ether in the French spirit, that notwithstanding the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous substances as the ottos of neroli, rosemary, and others, it still gives a characteristic perfume to the products made containing it, and hence the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of this substance.

Although very fine Eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the ingredients as indicated in the recipe as above, yet it is better, first, to mix all the citrine ottos with spirit, and then to distil the mixture, afterwards adding to the distillate the rosemary and nerolies, such process being the one adopted by the most popular house at Cologne.

A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe, hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c.

All these, however, are but hum--! Where it is a mere matter of profit, and the formula that we have given is too expensive to produce the article required, it is better to dilute the said Cologne with a weak spirit, or with rose-water, rather than otherwise alter its form; because, although weak, the true aroma of the original article is retained.

The recipe of the second quality of Eau de Cologne is given, to show that a very decent article can be produced with English spirit.

FLOWERS OF ERIN.

Extract of white rose (see WHITE ROSE), 1 pint. " vanilla, 1 oz.

ROYAL HUNT BOUQUET.

Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. " neroli, } " acacia, } " fleur d'orange, } of each 1/4 " " musk, } " orris, } " tonquin, 1/2 " Otto of citron 2 drachms.

BOUQUET DE FLORA; OTHERWISE, EXTRACT OF FLOWERS.

Esprit de rose,} " tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " violette, } Extract of benzoin, 1-1/2 oz. Otto of bergamot, 2 " " lemon, } " orange, } of each, 1/2 "

THE GUARDS' BOUQUET.

Esprit de rose, 2 pints. " neroli, 1/2 pint. Extract of vanilla, 2 oz. " orris, 2 " " musk, 1/4 pint. Otto of cloves, 1/2 drachm.

FLEUR D'ITALIE; OR ITALIAN NOSEGAY.

Esprit de rose, from pomade, 2 pints. " rose triple, 1 pint. " jasmine, } " violette, } from pomade, each, 1 " Extract of cassie, 1/2 " " musk, } " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz.

JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_English formula._)

Extract of orris root, 2 pints. Esprit de rose, triple, 1 pint. " rose de pomade, 1 " Extrait de cassie, } " tubereuse, } de pomade, of each 1/2 " " ambergris, } 1/2 " Otto of bergamot, 1/2 oz.

JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_French formula._)

Esprit de rose, de pomade, 1 pint. " tubereuse, 1 " " cassie, 1/2 " " jasmine, 1/4 " Extract of civet, 3 oz.

Independently of the materials employed being different to the original English recipe, it must be remembered that all the French perfumes are made of brandy, _i.e._ grape spirit; whereas the English perfumes are made with corn spirit, which alone modifies their odor. Though good for some mixtures, yet for others the grape spirit is very objectionable, on account of the predominance of its own aroma.

We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and French spirit; the marked distinction of British and Parisian perfumes made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different spirits employed. Owing to the strong "bouquet," as the French say, of their spirit in comparison with ours, the continental perfumers claim a superiority in the quality of their perfumes. Now, although we candidly admit that _some_ odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than with that from corn spirit, yet there are others which are undoubtedly the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source. Musk, ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with the British spirit.

All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau de Cologne, Eau de Portugal, Eau d'Arquebuzade, and lavender, can alone be brought to perfection by using the French spirit in their manufacture. If extract of jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be made with the French or brandy spirit, the true characteristic odor of the flower is lost to the olfactory nerve--so completely does the oeanthic ether of the grape spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it. This solves the paradox that English extract of violet and its compounds, "spring flowers," &c., is at all times in demand on the Continent, although the very flowers with which we make it are grown there.

On the contrary, if an English perfumer attempts to make Eau de Portugal, &c., to bear any comparison as a fine odor to that made by Lubin, of Paris, without using grape spirit, his attempts will prove a failure. True, he makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit, but judges of the article--and they alone can stamp its merit--discover instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between "Patent British" and foreign brandy.

Perhaps it may not be out of place here to observe that what is sold in this country as British brandy is in truth grape spirit, that is, foreign brandy very largely diluted with English spirit! By this scheme, a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor is maintained; the difference in duty upon English and foreign spirit enables the makers of the "capsuled" article to undersell those who vend the unsophisticated Cognac.

Some chemists, not being very deep in the "tricks of trade," have thought that some flavoring, or that oeanthic ether, was used to impart to British spirit the Cognac aroma. An article is even in the market called "Essence of Cognac," but which is nothing more than very badly made butyric ether.

On the Continent a great deal of spirit is procured by the fermentation of the molasses from beet-root; this, of course, finds its way into the market, and is often mixed with the grape spirit; so, also, in England we have spirit from potatoes, which is mixed in the corn spirit. These adulterations, if we may so term it, modify the relative odors of the primitive alcohols.

A JAPANESE PERFUME.

Extract of rose triple, } " vitivert, } " patchouly, } of each, 1/2 pint. " cedar, } " santal, } " vervaine, 1/4 "

KEW GARDEN NOSEGAY.

Esprit de neroli (_Petale_), 1 pint. " cassie, } " tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " jasmine, } " geranium, 1/2 " " musk, } of each, 3 oz. " ambergris, }

EAU DES MILLEFLEURS.

Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. " rose de pomade,} " tubereuse, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange,} " cassie, } " violette, } Extract of cedar, 1/4 " Extract of vanilla, } " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. " musk, } Otto of almonds, } " neroli, } of each, 10 drops. " cloves, } " bergamot, 1 oz.

These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then filtered prior to sale.

MILLEFLEURS ET LAVENDER.

Essence of lavender (_Mitcham_), 1/2 pint. Eau des millefleurs, 1 "

DECROIX'S MILLEFLOWER LAVENDER.

Spirits from grape, 1 pint. French otto of lavender, 1 oz. Extract of ambergris, 2 oz.

The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender; hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor, and has almost superseded the original preparations.

There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and maréchale, &c., all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients.

BOUQUET DU MARECHALE.

Esprit de rose triple, } } of each, 1 pint. Extrait de fleur d'orange, }

" vitivert, } " vanilla, } " orris, } of each, 1/2 " " tonquin, } Esprit de neroli, } Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 pint. " ambergris, } Otto of cloves, } of each, 1/2 drachm. " santal, }

EAU DE MOUSSELAINE.

Bouquet maréchale, 1 pint. Extrait de cassie, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " tubereuse,} " rose, } Otto of santal, 2 drachms.

BOUQUET DE MONTPELLIER.

Extrait de tubereuse, 1 pint. " rose de pomade, 1 " " rose triple, 1 " Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 " " ambergris, } Otto of cloves, 1-1/2 drachm. " bergarmot, 1/2 oz.

CAPRICE DE LA MODE.

Extrait de jasmine, } " tubereuse, } of each, 1/2 pint. " cassie, } " fleur d'orange, } Otto of almonds, 10 drops. " nutmegs, 10 " Extract of civet, 1/4 pint.

MAY FLOWERS.

Extract of rose (de pomade), } " jasmine, } of each, 1/2 pint. " fleur d'orange, } " cassie, } " vanilla, 1 " Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm.

NEPTUNE, OR NAVAL NOSEGAY.

Extrait de rose, triple, } " santal, } of each, 1/2 pint. " vitivert, } " patchouly, } " verbena, 1/8 "

BOUQUET OF ALL NATIONS.

Countries wherein the Odors are produced. TURKEY, Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint. AFRICA, Extract of jasmine, 1/2 " ENGLAND, " lavender, 1/4 " FRANCE, " tubereuse, 1/2 " SOUTH AMERICA, " vanilla, 1/4 " TIMOR, " santal, 1/4 " ITALY, " violet, 1 " HINDOOSTAN, " patchouly, 1/4 " CEYLON, Otto of citronella, 1 drachm. SARDINIA, " lemons, 1/4 oz. TONQUIN, Extract of musk, 1/4 pint.

ISLE OF WIGHT BOUQUET.

Extract of orris, 1/2 pint. " vitivert, 1/4 " " santal, 1 " " rose, 1/2 "

BOUQUET DU ROI.

Extract of jasmine, } " violet, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " rose } " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. " vitivert, } " musk, } of each, 1 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. " cloves, 1 drachm.

BOUQUET DE LA REINE.

Esprit de rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. Extrait de violette, } " tubereuse, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz.

RONDELETIA.

The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made. Its inventors, Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the _name_ of this odor from the _Rondeletia_, the _Chyn-len_ of the Chinese; or from the R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor. We have before observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different sources: that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed. Again: there are certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself. This effect is exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when mixed, upon the nerve of vision: such, for instance, as when yellow and blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are united, the compound color is known as puce or violet.

Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce a new fragrance, _i.e._ Rondeletia! It is such combinations that constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised, is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma, and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most delicate.

Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains. By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in the atmosphere of the most subtle nature: not only that which is pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful. If an unpleasant odor is a warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the general benefit of health.

To return, however, to Rondeletia: it will be seen by the annexed formulæ, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its peculiar character--that is, cloves and lavender--it contains musk, vanilla, &c. These substances are used in these as in nearly all other bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the handkerchief.

ESSENCE OF RONDELETIA.

Spirit (brandy 60 o.p.), 1 gallon. Otto of lavender, 2 oz. " cloves, 1 oz. " roses, 3 drachms. " bergamot, 1 oz. Extract of musk, } " vanilla, } each, 1/4 pint. " ambergris, }

The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale. Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made with English spirit.

BOUQUET ROYAL.

Extract of rose (from pomade), 1 pint. Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 " Extract of jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1/2 " " violet, } " verbena, } each, 2-1/2 oz. " cassie, } Otto of lemons, } each, 1/4 oz. " bergamot, } Extract of musk, } each, 1 oz. " ambergris, }

SUAVE.

Extract of tubereuse, } " jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. " cassie, } " rose, } " vanilla, 5 oz. " musk, } each, 2 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. " cloves, 1 drachm.

SPRING FLOWERS.

Extract of rose, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. " violet, } " rose, triple, 2-1/2 oz. " cassie, 2-1/2 oz. Otto of bergamot, 2 drachms. Extract of ambergris, 1 oz.