Part 13
In England the same practice is adopted by many persons that have gray hair; but instead of using the black material in the form of a powder, it is employed as a crayon, the color being mixed with a greasy body, such as the brown and black stick pomatums, described in the previous article.
TURKISH HAIR DYE.
In Constantinople there are some persons, particularly Armenians, who devote themselves to the preparation of cosmetics, and obtain large sums of money from those desirous of learning this art. Amongst these cosmetics is a black dye for the hair, which, according to Landerer, is prepared in the following manner:--
Finely pulverized galls are kneaded with a little oil to a paste, which is roasted in an iron pan until the oil vapors cease to evolve, upon which the residue is triturated with water into a paste, and heated again to dryness. At the same time a metallic mixture, which is brought from Egypt to the commercial marts of the East, and which is termed in Turkish _Rastiko-petra_, or _Rastik-Yuzi_, is employed for this purpose. This metal, which looks like dross, is by some Armenians intentionally fused, and consists of iron and copper. It obtains its name from its use for the coloration of the hair, and particularly the eyebrows--for _rastik_ means eyebrows, and _yuzi_ stone. The fine powder of this metal is as intimately mixed as possible with the moistened gall-mass into a paste, which is preserved in a damp place, by which it acquires the blackening property. In some cases this mass is mixed with, the powder of odorous substances which are used in the seraglio as perfumes, and called _harsi_, that is, pleasant odor; and of these the principal ingredient is ambergris. To blacken the hair a little of this dye is triturated in the hand or between the fingers, with which the hair or beard is well rubbed. After a few days the hair becomes very beautifully black, and it is a real pleasure to see such fine black beards as are met with in the East among the Turks who use this black dye. Another and important advantage in the use of this dye consists therein, that the hair remains soft, pliant, and for a long time black, when it has been once dyed with this substance. That the coloring properties of this dye are to be chiefly ascribed to the pyrogallic acid, which can be found by treating the mass with water, may be with certainty assumed.
LITHARGE HAIR DYE.
Powdered litharge, 2 lbs. Quicklime, 1/2 lb. Calcined magnesia, 1/2 lb.
Slake the lime, using as little water as possible to make it disintegrate, then mix the whole by a sieve.
ANOTHER WAY.
Slaked lime, 3 lbs. White lead in powder, 2 lbs. Litharge, 1 lb.
Mix by sifting, bottle, and well cork.
_Directions_ to be sold with the above.--"Mix the powder with enough water to form a thick creamy fluid; with the aid of a small brush; completely cover the hair to be dyed with this mixture; to dye a light brown, allow it to remain on the hair four hours; dark brown, eight hours; black, twelve hours. As the dye does not act unless it is moist, it is necessary to keep it so by wearing an oiled silk, india-rubber, or other waterproof cap.
"After the hair is dyed, the refuse must be thoroughly washed from the head with plain water; when dry, the hair must be oiled."
SIMPLE SILVER DYE. (_Otherwise "Vegetable Dye._")
Nitrate of silver, 1 oz. Rose-water, 1 pint.
Before using this dye it is necessary to free the hair from grease by washing it with soda or pearlash and water. The hair must be quite dry prior to applying the dye, which is best laid on with an old tooth-brush. This dye does not "strike" for several hours. It needs scarcely be observed that its effects are more rapidly produced by exposing the hair to sunshine and air.
HAIR DYE, WITH MORDANT. (_Brown._)
Nitrate of silver, 1 oz., blue bottles. Rose-water, 9 oz. " _The mordant_.--Sulphuret of potassium, 1 oz., white bottles. " Water, 8 oz. "
HAIR DYE, WITH MORDANT. (_Black._)
Nitrate of silver, 1 oz., blue bottles. Water, 6 oz. " _The mordant_.--Sulphuret of potassium, 1 oz., white bottles. " Water, 6 oz. "
The mordant is to be applied to the hair first; when dry, the silver solution.
Great care must be taken that the sulphuret is fresh made, or at least, well preserved in closed bottles, otherwise, instead of the mordant acting to make to make the hair black, it will tend to impart a _yellow_ hue. When the mordant is good, it has a very disagreeable odor, and although this is the quickest and best dye, its unpleasant smell has given rise to the
INODOROUS DYE.
_Blue bottles._--Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water as in the above, then add liquid ammonia by degrees until the mixture becomes cloudy from the precipitate of the oxide of silver, continue to add ammonia in small portions until the fluid again becomes bright from the oxide of silver being redissolved.
_White bottles_.--Pour half a pint of boiling rose-water upon three ounces of powdered gall-nuts; when cold, strain and bottle. This forms the mordant, and is used in the same way as the first-named dye, like the sulphuret mordant. It is not so good a dye as the previous one.
FRENCH BROWN DYE.
_Blue Bottles_.--Saturated solution of sulphate of copper; to this add ammonia enough to precipitate the oxide of copper and redissolve it (as with the silver in the above), producing the azure liquid.
_White Bottles_.--_Mordant_.--Saturated solution of prussiate of potass.
Artificial hair, for the manufacture of perukes, is dyed in the same manner as wool.
There are in the market several other hair dyes, but all of them are but modifications of the above, possessing no marked advantage.
LEAD DYE.
Liquid hair dye, not to blacken the skin, may be thus prepared:--Dissolve in one ounce of liquor potassæ as much freshly-precipitated oxide of lead as it will take up, and dilute the resulting clear solution with three ounces of distilled water. Care must be taken not to wet the skin unnecessarily with it.
QUICK DEPILATORY OR RUSMA. (_For removing hair._)
As the ladies of this country consider the growth of hair upon the upper lip, upon the arms, and on the back of the neck, to be detrimental to beauty, those who are troubled with such physical indications of good health and vital stamina have long had recourse to rusma or depilatory for removing it.
This or analogous preparations were introduced into this country from the East, rusma having been in use in the harems of Asia for many ages.
Best lime slaked, 3 lb. Orpiment, in powder, 1/2 lbs.
Mix the material by means of a drum sieve; preserve the same for sale in well-corked or stoppered bottles.
_Directions_ to be sold with the above. Mix the depilatory powder with enough water to render it of a creamy consistency; lay it upon the hair for about five minutes, or until its caustic action upon the skin renders it necessary to be removed; a similar process to shaving is then to be gone through, but instead of using a razor, operate with an ivory or bone paper-knife; then wash the part with plenty of water, and apply a little cold cream.
The precise time to leave depilatory upon the part to be depilated cannot be given, because there is a physical difference in the nature of hair. "Raven tresses" require more time than "flaxen locks;" the sensitiveness of the skin has also to be considered. A small feather is a very good test for its action.
A few readers will, perhaps, be disappointed in finding that I have only given one formula for depilatory. The receipts might easily have been increased in number, but not in quality. The use of arsenical compounds is objectionable, but it undoubtedly increases the depilating action of the compounds. A few compilers of "Receipt Books," "Supplements to Pharmacopoeias," and others, add to the lime "charcoal powder," "carbonate of potass," "starch," &c.; but what action have these materials--chemically--upon hair? The simplest depilatory is moistened quicklime, but it is less energetic than the mixture recommended above; it answers very well for tanners and fellmongers, with whom time is no object.
SECTION XIV.
ABSORBENT POWDERS.
A lady's toilet-table is incomplete without a box of some absorbent powder; indeed, from our earliest infancy, powder is used for drying the skin with the greatest benefit; no wonder that its use is continued in advanced years, if, by slight modifications in its composition, it can be employed not only as an absorbent, but as a means of "personal adornment." We are quite within limits in stating that many ton-weights of such powders are used in this country annually. They are principally composed of various starches, prepared from wheat, potatoes, and various nuts, mixed more or less with powdered talc--of Haüy, steatite (soap-stone), French chalk, oxide of bismuth, and oxide of zinc, &c. The most popular is what is termed
VIOLET POWDER.
Wheat starch, 12 lbs. Orris-root powder, 2 lbs. Otto of lemon, 1/2 oz. " bergamot, 3/4 oz. " cloves, 2 drachms.
ROSE FACE POWDER.
Wheat starch, 7 lbs. Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm. Otto of rose, 2 drachms. " santal, 2 "
PLAIN OR UNSCENTED HAIR POWDER
Is pure wheat starch.
FACE POWDER.
Starch, 1 lb. Oxide of Bismuth, 4 oz.
PERLE POWDER.
French chalk, 1 lb. Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz. Oxide of zinc, 1 oz.
BLANC DE PERLE
Is pure oxide of bismuth in powder.
FRENCH BLANC
Is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve.
This is the best face powder made, particularly as it does not discolor from emanation of the skin or impure atmosphere.
LIQUID BLANC (FOR THEATRICAL USE).
The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to subdue it.
Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:--
Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint. Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz.
Mixed by long trituration.
CALCINED TALC
Is also extensively used as a toilet powder, and is sold under various names; it is not so unctuous as the ordinary kind.
ROUGE AND RED PAINTS.
These preparations are in demand, not only for theatrical use, but by private individuals. Various shades of color are made, to suit the complexions of the blonde and brunette. One of the best kind is that termed
BLOOM OF ROSES.
Strong liquid ammonia, 1/2 oz. Finest carmine, 1/4 oz. Rose-water, 1 pint. Esprit de rose (triple), 1/2 oz.
Place the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia; allow them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days; then add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix. Place the bottle in a quiet situation for a week; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine will subside; the supernatant "Bloom of Roses" is then to be bottled for sale. If the carmine was perfectly pure there would be no precipitate; nearly all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less sophisticated, its enormous price being a premium to its adulteration.
Carmine cannot be manufactured _profitably_ on a small scale for commercial purposes; four or five manufacturers supply the whole of Europe! M. Titard, Rue Grenier St. Lazare, Paris, produces, without doubt, the finest article; singular enough, however, the principal operative in the establishment is an old Englishman.
"The preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery, because, on the one hand, its consumption being very limited, few persons are engaged in its manufacture, and, upon the other, the raw material being costly, extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently made."--DR. URE.
In the _Encyclopédie Roret_ will be found no less than a dozen recipes for preparing carmine; the number of formulæ will convince the most superficial reader that the true form is yet withheld.
Analysis has taught us its exact composition; but a certain dexterity of manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete success.
Most of the recipes given by Dr. Ure, and others, are from this source; but as they possess no practical value we refrain from reprinting them.
TOILET ROUGES.
Are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with talc powder, in different proportions, say, one drachm of carmine to two ounces of talc, or one of carmine to three of talc, and so on. These rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots; for the latter the rouge is mixed with a minute portion of solution of gum tragacanth. M. Titard prepares a great variety of rouges. In some instances the coloring-matter of the cochineal is spread upon thick paper and dried very gradually; it then assumes a beautiful green tint. This curious optical effect is also observed in "pink saucers." What is known as Chinese book rouge is evidently made in the same way, and has been imported into this country for many years.
When the bronze green cards are moistened with a piece of damp cotton wool, and applied to the lips or cheeks, the color assumes a beautiful rosy hue. Common sorts of rouge, called "theatre rouge," are made from the Brazil-wood lake; another kind is derived from the safflower (_Carthamus tinctorius_); from this plant also is made
PINK SAUCERS.
The safflower is washed in water until the yellow coloring-matter is removed; the carthamine or color principle is then dissolved out by a weak solution of carbonate of soda; the coloring is then precipitated into the saucers by the addition of sulphuric acid to the solution.
Cotton wool and crape being colored in the same way are used for the same purpose, the former being sold as Spanish wool, the latter as Crépon rouge.
SECTION XV.
TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.
TOOTH powders, regarded as a means merely of cleansing the teeth, are most commonly placed among cosmetics; but this should not be, as they assist greatly in preserving a healthy and regular condition of the dental machinery, and so aid in perfecting as much as possible the act of mastication. In this manner, they may be considered as most useful, although it is true, subordinate medicinal agents. By a careful and prudent use of them, some of the most frequent causes of early loss of the teeth may be prevented; these are, the deposition of tartar, the swelling of the gums, and an undue acidity of the saliva. The effect resulting from accumulation of the tartar is well known to most persons, and it has been distinctly shown that swelling of the substance of the gums will hasten the expulsion of the teeth from their sockets; and the action of the saliva, if unduly acid, is known to be at least injurious, if not destructive. Now, the daily employment of a tooth powder sufficiently hard, so as to exert a tolerable degree of friction upon the teeth, without, at the same time, injuring the enamel of the teeth, will, in most cases, almost always prevent the tartar accumulating in such a degree as to cause subsequent injury to the teeth; and a flaccid, spongy, relaxed condition of the gums may be prevented or overcome by adding to such a tooth powder, some tonic and astringent ingredient. A tooth powder containing charcoal and cinchona bark, will accomplish these results in most cases, and therefore dentists generally recommend such. Still, there are objections to the use of charcoal; it is too hard and resisting, its color is objectionable, and it is perfectly insoluble by the saliva, it is apt to become lodged between the teeth, and there to collect decomposing animal and vegetable matter around such particles as may be fixed in this position. Cinchona bark, too, is often stringy, and has a bitter, disagreeable taste. M. Mialhe highly recommends the following formula:--
MIALHE'S TOOTH POWDER.
Sugar of milk, one thousand parts; lake, ten parts; pure tannin, fifteen parts; oil of mint, oil of aniseed, and oil of orange flowers, so much as to impart an agreeable flavor to the composition.
His directions for the preparation of this tooth powder, are, to rub well the lake with the tannin, and gradually add the sugar of milk, previously powdered and sifted; and lastly, the essential oils are to be carefully mixed with the powdered substances. Experience has convinced him of the efficacy of this tooth powder, the habitual employment of which, will suffice to preserve the gums and teeth in a healthy state. For those who are troubled with excessive relaxation and sponginess of the gums, he recommends the following astringent preparation:--
MIALHE'S DENTIFRICE.
Alcohol, one thousand parts; genuine kino, one hundred parts; rhatany root, one hundred parts; tincture of balsam of tolu, two parts; tincture of gum benzoin, two parts; essential oil of canella, two parts; essential oil of mint, two parts; essential oil of aniseed, one part.
The kino and the rhatany root are to be macerated in the alcohol for seven or eight days; and after filtration, the other articles are to be added. A teaspoonful of this preparation mixed in three or four spoonfuls of water, should be used to rinse the mouth, after the use of the tooth powder.
CAMPHORATED CHALK.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Powdered orris-root, 1/2 lb. Powdered camphor, 1/4 lb.
Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with a little spirit, then sift the whole well together. On account of the volatility of camphor, the powder should always be sold in bottles, or at least in boxes lined with tinfoil.
QUININE TOOTH POWDER.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Starch Powder, 1/2 lb. Orris powder, 1/2 lb. Sulphate of quinine, 1 drachm.
After sifting, it is ready for sale.
PREPARED CHARCOAL.
Fresh-made charcoal in fine powder, 7 lbs. Prepared chalk, 1 lb. Orris-root, 1 lb. Catechu, 1/2 lb. Cassia bark, 1/2 lb. Myrrh, 1/4 lb.
Sift.
PERUVIAN BARK POWDER.
Peruvian bark in powder, 1/2 lb. Bole Ammoniac, 1 lb. Orris powder, 1 lb. Cassia bark, 1/2 lb. Powdered myrrh, 1/2 lb. Precipitated chalk, 1/2 lb. Otto of cloves, 3/4 oz.
HOMOEOPATHIC CHALK.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Powder orris, 1 oz. " starch, 1 oz.
CUTTLE FISH POWDER.
Powdered cuttle-fish, 1/2 lb. Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Powder orris, 1/2 lb. Otto of lemons, 1 oz. " neroli, 1/2 drachm.
BORAX AND MYRRH TOOTH POWDER.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Borax powder, 1/2 lb. Myrrh powder, 1/4 lb. Orris, 1/4 lb.
FARINA PIESSE'S POWDER.
Precipitated chalk, 2 lbs. Orris-root, 2 lbs. Rose pink, 1 drachm. Very fine powdered sugar, 1/2 lb. Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm. " lemons, 1/4 oz. " bergamot, 1/4 oz. " orange-peel, 1/4 oz. " rosemary, 1 drachm.
ROSE TOOTH POWDER.
Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. Orris, 1/2 lb. Rose pink, 2 drachms. Otto of rose, 1 drachm. " santal, 1/4 drachm.
OPIATE TOOTH PASTE.
Honey, 1/2 lb. Chalk, 1/2 lb. Orris, 1/2 lb. Rose Pink, 2 drachms. Otto of cloves, } " nutmeg, } each, 1/2 drachm. " rose, } Simple syrup, enough to form a paste.
MOUTH WASHES.
VIOLET MOUTH WASH.
Tincture of orris, 1/2 pint. Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. Spirit, 1/2 pint. Otto of almonds, 5 drops.
EAU BOTOT.
Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint. " myrrh, 1/4 pint. " rhatany, 1/4 pint. Otto of peppermint, 5 drops.
All these tinctures should be made with grape spirit, or at least with pale unsweetened brandy.
BOTANIC STYPTIC.
Rectified spirit, 1 quart. Rhatany root, } Gum myrrh, } of each, 2 oz. Whole cloves, }
Macerate for fourteen days, and strain.
TINCTURE OF MYRRH AND BORAX.
Spirits of wine, 1 quart. Borax, } Honey, } of each, 1 oz. Gum myrrh, 1 oz. Red sanders wood, 1 oz.
Rub the honey and borax well together in a mortar, then gradually add the spirit, which should not be stronger than .920, _i.e._ proof spirit, the myrrh, and sanders wood, and macerate for fourteen days.
TINCTURE OF MYRRH WITH EAU DE COLOGNE.
Eau de Cologne, 1 quart. Gum myrrh, 1 oz.
Macerate for fourteen days, and filter.
CAMPHORATED EAU DE COLOGNE.
Eau de Cologne, 1 quart. Camphor, 5 oz.
SECTION XVI.
HAIR WASHES.
ROSEMARY WATER.
Rosemary free from stalk, 10 lbs. Water, 12 gallons.
Draw off by distillation ten gallons for use in perfumery manufacture.
ROSEMARY HAIR WASH.
Rosemary water, 1 gallon. Rectified spirit, 1/2 pint. Pearlash, 1 oz.
Tinted with brown coloring.
ATHENIAN WATER.
Rose-water, 1 gallon. Alcohol, 1 pint. Sassafras wood, 1/4 lb. Pearlash, 1 oz.
Boil the wood in the rose-water in a glass vessel; then, when cold, add the pearlash and spirit.
VEGETABLE OR BOTANIC EXTRACT.
Rose-water, } Rectified spirits, } of each, 2 quarts. Extrait de fleur d'orange, } " jasmin, } " acacia, } of each, 1/4 pint. " rose, } " tubereuse, } Extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint.
This is a very beautifully-scented hair wash. It retails at a price commensurate with its cost.
ASTRINGENT EXTRACT OF ROSES AND ROSEMARY.
Rosemary water, 2 quarts. Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. Rectified spirit, 1-1/2 pint. Extract of vanilla, 1 quart. Magnesia to clear it, 2 oz.
Filter through paper.
SAPONACEOUS WASH.
Rectified spirit, 1 pint. Rose-water, 1 gallon. Extract of rondeletia, 1/2 pint. Transparent soap, 1/2 oz. Hay saffron, 1/2 drachm.
Shave up the soap very fine; boil it and the saffron in a quart of the rose-water; when dissolved, add the remainder of the water, then the spirit, finally the rondeletia, which is used by way of perfume. After standing for two or three days, it is fit for bottling. By transmitted light it is transparent, but by reflected light the liquid has a pearly and singular wavy appearance when shaken. A similar preparation is called Egg Julep.
BANDOLINES.