Act I. Scene 4. Gammer, Hodge, Tib, Cocke.

_Gammer._ "Alas, alas, I may well curse and ban This day, that ever I saw it, with Gib and the milke pan. For these, and ill lucke together, as knoweth Cocke my boy, Have stacke away my dear neele, and rob'd me of my joy, My fair long straight neele, that was mine only treasure, The first day of my sorrow is, and last of my pleasure."

_Hodge._ "Might ha kept it when ye had it; but fools will be fools still: Lose that is fast in your hands? ye need not, but ye will."

_Gammer._ "Go hie the, Tib, and run along, to th' end here of the town. Didst carry out dust in thy lap? seek where thou porest it down; And as thou sawest me roking in the ashes where I morned, So see in all the heap of dust thou leave no straw unturned."

_Hodge._ "Your neele lost? it is pitie you shold lacke care and endles sorrow. Tell me, how shall my breches be sewid? shall I go thus to-morrow?"

_Gammer._ "Ah, Hodge, Hodge, if that I could find my neele, by the reed, I'd sew thy breches, I promise the, with full good double threed, And set a patch on either knee, shall last this months twain, Now God, and Saint Sithe, I pray, to send it back again."

_Hodge._ "Whereto served your hands and eyes, but your neele keep? What devil had you els to do? ye keep, I wot, no sheep. I'm fain abrode to dig and delve, in water, mire and clay, Sossing and possing in the dirt, still from day to day A hundred things that be abroad, I'm set to see them weel; And four of you sit idle at home, and cannot keep a neele."

_Gammer._ "My neele, alas, I lost, Hodge, what time I me up hasted, To save milk set up for thee, which Gib our cat hath wasted."

_Hodge._ "The devil he take both Gib and Tib, with all the rest; I'm always sure of the worst end, whoever have the best. Where ha you ben fidging abroad, since you your neele lost?"

_Gammer._ "Within the house, and at the door, sitting by this same post; Where I was looking a long hour, before these folke came here; But, wel away! all was in vain, my neele is never the near!"

"Gammer Gurton's Needle," says Hazlitt, "is a regular comedy, in five acts, built on the circumstance of an old woman having lost her needle which throws the whole village into confusion, till it is at last providentially found sticking in an unlucky part of Hodge's dress. This must evidently have happened at a time when the manufactures of Sheffield and Birmingham had not reached the height of perfection which they have at present done. Suppose that there is only one sewing needle in a village, that the owner, a diligent notable old dame, loses it, that a mischief-making wag sets it about that another old woman has stolen this valuable instrument of household industry, that strict search is made every where in-doors for it in vain, and that then the incensed parties sally forth to scold it out in the open air, till words end in blows, and the affair is referred over to the higher authorities, and we shall have an exact idea (though, perhaps, not so lively a one) of what passes in this authentic document between Gammer Gurton and her gossip Dame Chat; Dickon the Bedlam (the causer of these harms); Hodge, Gammer Gurton's servant; Tyb, her maid; Cocke, her 'prentice boy; Doll Scapethrift; Master Baillie, his master; Dr. Rat, the curate; and Gib, the cat, who may fairly be reckoned one of the _dramatis personæ_, and performs no mean part."

From the needle itself the transition is easy to the needlework which was in vogue at the time when this little implement was so valuable and rare a commodity. We are told that the various kinds of needlework practised at this time would, if enumerated, astonish even the most industrious of our modern ladies. The lover of Shakspeare will remember that the term _point device_ is often used by him, and that, indeed, it is a term frequently met with in the writers of that age with various applications; and it is originally derived, according to Mr. Douce, from the fine stitchery of the ladies.

It has been properly stated, that _point device_ signifies _exact_, _nicely_, _finical_; but nothing has been offered concerning the etymology, except that we got the expression from the French. It has, in fact, been supplied from the labours of the needle. _Poinct_, in the French language, denotes a _stitch_; _devise_ any thing _invented_, disposed, or _arranged_. _Point devise_ was, therefore, a particular sort of patterned lace worked with the needle; and the term _point lace_ is still familiar to every female. They had likewise their _point-coupé_, _point-compté_, _dentelle au point devant l'aiguille_, &c. &c.

But it is apparent, he adds, that the expression _point devise_ became applicable, in a _secondary_ sense, to whatever was uncommonly exact, or constructed with the nicety and precision of stitches made or devised with the needle.

Various books of patterns of needlework for the assistance and encouragement of the fair stitchers were published in those days. Mr. Douce[116] enumerates some of them, and the omission of any part of his notation would be unpardonable in the present work.

The earliest on the list is an Italian book, under the title of "Esemplario di lavori: dove le tenere fanciulle et altre donne nobile potranno facilmente imparare il modo et ordine di lavorare, cusire, raccamare, et finalmente far tutte quelle gentillezze et lodevili opere, le quali pò fare una donna virtuosa con laco in mano, con li suoi compasse et misure. Vinegia, per Nicolo D'Aristotile detto Zoppino, MDXXIX. 8vo."

The next that occurs was likewise set forth by an Italian, and entitled, "Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de lingerie. Paris, 1588. 4to." It is dedicated to the Queen of France, and had been already twice published.

In 1599 a second part came out, which is much more difficult to be met with than the former, and sometimes contains a neat portrait, by Gaultier, of Catherine de Bourbon, the sister of Henry the Fourth.

The next is "Nouveaux pourtraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme, nouvellement inventez et mis en lumière. Imprimé à Montbeliard, 1598. 4to." It has an address to the ladies, and a poem exhorting young damsels to be industrious; but the author's name does not appear. Vincentio's work was published in England, and printed by John Wolfe, under the title of "New and Singular Patternes and Workes of Linnen, serving for paternes to make all sortes of lace, edginges, and cutworkes. Newly invented for the profite and contentment of ladies, gentilwomen, and others that are desireous of this Art. 1591. 4to." He seems also to have printed it with a French title.

We have then another English book, of which this is the title: "Here foloweth certaine Patternes of Cutworkes; newly invented and never published before. Also, sundry sortes of spots, as flowers, birdes, and fishes, &c., and will fitly serve to be wrought, some with gould, some with silke, and some with crewell in coullers; or otherwise at your pleasure. And never but once published before. Printed by Rich. Shorleyker." No date. In oblong quarto.

And lastly, another oblong quarto, entitled, "The Needle's Excellency, a new booke, wherein are divers admirable workes wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the pleasure and profit of the industrious." Printed for James Boler, &c., 1640. Beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to the patterns are sundry poems in commendation of the needle, and describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of Pembroke. The poems were composed by John Taylor the water poet. It appears that the work had gone through twelve impressions, and yet a copy is now scarcely to be met with. This may be accounted for by supposing that such books were generally cut to pieces, and used by women to work upon or transfer to their samplers. From the dress of a lady and gentleman on one of the patterns in the last mentioned book, it appears to have been originally published in the reign of James the First. All the others are embellished with a multitude of patterns elegantly cut in wood, several of which are eminently conspicuous for their taste and beauty.

We are happy to add a little further information on some of these works, and on others preserved in the British Museum.

"Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dédié à la Reyne. A Paris, 1578."[117]

The book opens with a sonnet to the fair, which announces to them an admirable motive for the work itself:--

"Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer."

Aux Dames et Damoyselles.

SONNET.

"L'un s'efforce à gaigner le coeur des {grands} Seigneurs Pour posseder en fin une exquise richesse; L'autre aspire aux estats, pour monter en altesse, Et l'autre, par la guerre alléche les honneurs.

"Quand à moy, seulement pour chasser mes langueurs, Je me sen satisfaict de vivre en petitesse, Et de faire si bien, qu'aux Dames ie delaisse Un grand contentement en mes graves labeurs.

"Prenez doncques en gré (mes Dames) ie vous prie, Ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquels ie vous dedie, Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer.

"En ceste nouveauté, pourrez beaucoup apprendre, Et maistresses en fin en cest oeuvre vous rendre, Le travail est plaisant: Si grand est le loyer."

Which, barring elegant diction and poetic rule, may be read thus:--

Whilst one man worships lordly state As yielding all that he desires-- This, fertile acres begs from fate; Another, bloody laurels fires.

To dissipate my devils blue, Trifles, I'm satisfied to do; For surely if the fair I please, My very labours smack of ease.

Take then, fair ladies, I you pray, The book which at your feet I lay, To make you happy, brisk and gay.

There's much you here may learn anew, Which _comme il faut_ will render you, And bring you joy and honour too.

Proceed we to the--

"Ouvrages de point Coupé," of which there are thirty-six. Some birds, animals, and figures are introduced; but the patterns are chiefly arabesque, set off in white, on a thick black ground.

Then, with a repetition of the ornamented title-page, come about fifty patterns, which are represented much like the German patterns of the present day, in squares for stitches, but not so finely wrought as some which we shall presently notice. These patterns consist of arabesques, figures, birds, beasts, flowers, in every variety. To many the stitches are ready counted (as well as pourtrayed), thus:--

"Ce Pélican contient en longueur 70 mailles, et en hauteur 65." This pattern of maternity is represented as pecking her breast, towards which three young ones are flying; their course being indicated by the three lines of white stitches, all converging to the living nest.

"Ce Griffon {contient} en hauteur 58 mailles, et en {longueur} 67." Small must be the skill of the needlewoman who does not make this a very rampant animal indeed.

"Ce Paon contient en longueur 65 mailles, et en hauteur 61."

"La Licorne en hauteur {contient} 44 mailles, et en longueur 62, &c. &c."

"La bordure contient 25 mailles."

"La bordure de haut {contient} 35 mailles." This is a very handsome one, resembling pine apples.

"Ce quarré contient 65 mailles." There are several of these squares, and borders appended, of very rich patterns.

But the book contains far more ambitious designs. There are Sol, Luna, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, Neptune, and others, whose dignities and vocation must be inferred from the emblematical accompaniments.

There is "La Déesse des fleurs représentant le printemps."

"La Déesse des Bleds representant l'esté."

"Ce Bacchus representant l'Autonne."

"Ceste figure representant l'hiver," &c. &c.

Appended is this "Extraict du Privilege."

"Per grace et privelege du Roy, est permis a Jean le Clerc le jeune, tailleur d'histoires à Paris, d'imprimer ou faire imprimer {vendre} et distribuer un livre intitulé livre de patrons de Lingerie, DEDIE A LA ROYNE, nouvellement inventé par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, avec deffences à tous Libraires, Imprimeurs, ou autres, de quelque condition et qualité quilz soyent, de faire ny contrefaire, aptisser ny {agrandir}, ou pocher lesdits figures, ny exposer en vente ledict Livre sans le {congé} ou permission dudict le Clerc, et ce jusques au temps et terme de neuf ans finis et accomplis, sur peine de confiscation de tous les livres qui se trouveront imprimez, et damande arbitraire: comme plus a plein est declaré en lettres patentes, données à Paris ce douziesme jour de Novembre, 1587."

Another work, preserved in the British Museum, was published at Strasbourg, 1596, seemingly from designs of the same Vinciolo. These consist of about six-and-thirty plates, with patterns in white on a black ground, consisting of a few birds and figures, but chiefly of stars and wreaths pricked out in every possible variety; and at the end of the book a dozen richly wrought patterns, without any edging, were seemingly designed for what we should now call "insertion" work or lace.

There is another, by the same author, printed at Basil in 1599, which varies but slightly from the foregoing.

This Frederick de Vinciolo is doubtless the same person who was summoned to France, by Catherine de Medicis, to instruct the ladies of the court in the art of netting the lace of which the then fashionable ruffs were made.

In another volume we have--

"Corona delle Nobili et virtuose Donne, nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in Aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti à Reticelle, e d'ogni altre sorte, cosi per Freggi, per Merli, e Rosette, che con l'Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l'Europa.

"E molte delle quali Mostre possono servire ancora per opere a Mazzette.

"Con le dichiarationi a le Mostre a Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana.

"In Venetia appresso Alessandro di Vecchi, 1620."

The plates here are very similar to those in the above-mentioned works. Some are accompanied by short explanations, saying where they are most used and to whom they are best suited, as--

"Hopera Bellissima, che per il più le Signore Duchese, et altre Signore si servono per li suoi lavori."

"Queste bellissime Rosette usano anco le gentildonne Venetiane da far traverse."

But certainly the best work of the kind is, "The Needle's Excellency," referred to in Mr. Douce's list. It contains a variety of plates, of which the patterns are all, or nearly all, arabesque. They are beautifully executed, many of them being very similar to, and equally fine with, the German patterns before the colouring is put on, which, though it guides the eye, defaces the work. These are seldom seen uncoloured, the Germans having a jealousy of sending them; but we have seen, through the polite attention of Mr. Wilks, of Regent Street, one or two in this state, and we could not but admire the extreme delicacy and beauty of the work. Some few of the patterns in the book we are now referring to are so extremely similar, that we doubt not the modern artists have borrowed the _idea_ of their beautifully traced patterns from this or some similar work; thereby adding one more proof of the truth of the oft quoted proverb, "There is nothing new under the sun."

As a fitting close to this chapter, we give the Needle's praises in full, as sung by the water poet, John Taylor, and prefixed to the last-mentioned work.

THE PRAISE OF THE NEEDLE.

"To all dispersed sorts of arts and trades, I write the needles prayse (that never fades) So long as children shall be got or borne, So long as garments shall be made or worne, So long as hemp or flax, or sheep shall bear Their linnen wollen fleeces yeare by yeare: So long as silkwormes, with exhausted spoile, Of their own entrailes for man's gaine shall toyle: Yea till the world be quite dissolv'd and past, So long at least, the needles use shall last: And though from earth his being did begin, Yet through the fire he did his honour win: And unto those that doe his service lacke, He's true as steele and mettle to the backe He hath indeed, I see, small single sight, Yet like a pigmy, _Polipheme_ in fight: As a stout captaine, bravely he leades on, (Not fearing colours) till the worke be done, Through thicke and thinne he is most sharpely set, With speed through stitch, he will the conquest get. And as a souldier (Frenchefyde with heat) Maim'd from the warres is forc'd to make retreat; So when a needles point is broke, and gone, _No point Mounsieur_, he's maim'd, his worke is done, And more the needles honour to advance, It is a tailor's javelin, or his lance; And for my countries quiet, I should like, That women kinde should use no other pike. It will increase their peace, enlarge their store, To use their tongues lesse, and their needles more. The needles sharpnesse, profit yields, and pleasure, But sharpnesse of the tongue, bites out of measure. A needle (though it be but small and slender) Yet it is both a maker and a mender: A grave Reformer of old rents decay'd, Stops holes and seames and desperate cuts display'd, And thus without the needle we may see We should without our bibs and biggins bee; No shirts or smockes, our nakednesse to hide, No garments gay, to make us magnifide: No shadowes, shapparoones, caules, bands, ruffs, kuffs, No kerchiefes, quoyfes, chinclouts, or marry-muffes, No croscloaths, aprons, handkerchiefes, or falls, No table-cloathes, for parlours or for halls, No sheetes, no towels, napkins, pillow beares, Nor any garment man or woman weares. Thus is a needle prov'd an instrument Of profit, pleasure, and of ornament. Which mighty queenes have grac'd in hand to take, And high borne ladies such esteeme did make, That as their daughters daughters up did grow, The needles art, they to the children show. And as 'twas then an exercise of praise, So what deserves more honour in these dayes, Than this? which daily doth itselfe expresse A mortall enemy to idlenesse. The use of sewing is exceeding old, As in the sacred text it is enrold: Our parents first in Paradise began, Who hath descended since from man to man: The mothers taught their daughters, sires their sons Thus in a line successively it runs For generall profit, and for recreation, From generation unto generation. With work like cherubims embroidered rare, The covers of the tabernacle were. And by the Almighti's great command, we see, That Aaron's garments broidered worke should be; And further, God did bid his vestments should Be made most gay, and glorious to behold. Thus plainly and most truly is declar'd The needles worke hath still bin in regard, For it doth art, so like to nature frame, As if it were her sister, or the same. Flowers, plants and fishes, beasts, birds, flyes, and bees, Hills, dales, plaines, pastures, skies, seas, rivers, trees; There's nothing neere at hand, or farthest sought, But with the needle may be shap'd and wrought. In clothes of arras I have often seene, Men's figur'd counterfeits so like have beene, That if the parties selfe had been in place, Yet art would vie with nature for the grace; Moreover, posies rare, and anagrams, Signifique searching sentences from names, True history, or various pleasant fiction, In sundry colours mixt, with arts commixion, All in dimension, ovals, squares, and rounds, Arts life included within natures bounds: So that art seemeth merely naturall, In forming shapes so geometricall; And though our country everywhere is fild With ladies, and with gentlewomen, skild In this rare art, yet here they may discerne Some things to teach them if they list to learne. And as this booke some cunning workes doth teach, (Too hard for meane capacities to reach) So for weake learners, other workes here be, As plaine and easie as are A B C. Thus skilful, or unskilful, each may take This booke, and of it each good use may make, All sortes of workes, almost that can be nam'd, Here are directions how they may be fram'd: And for this kingdomes good are hither come, From the remotest parts of Christendome, Collected with much paines and industrie, From scorching _Spaine_ and freezing _Muscovie_, From fertill _France_, and pleasant _Italy_, From _Poland_, _Sweden_, _Denmark_, _Germany_, And some of these rare patternes have beene fet Beyond the bounds of faithlesse _Mahomet_: From spacious _China_, and those kingdomes East, And from great _Mexico_, the Indies West. Thus are these workes, _farrefetcht_ and _dearely bought_, And consequently _good for ladies thought_. Nor doe I derogate (in any case) Or doe esteeme of other teachings base, For _tent worke_, _rais'd worke_, _laid worke_, _frost works_, _net worke_, Most curious _purles_, or rare _Italian cut worke_, Fine, _ferne stitch_, _finny stitch_, _new stitch_, and _chain stitch_, Brave _bred stitch_, _Fisher stitch_, _Irish stitch_, and _Queen stitch_, The _Spanish stitch_, _Rosemary stitch_, and _Mowse stitch_ The smarting _whip stitch_, _back stitch_, and the _crosse stitch_ All these are good, and these we must allow, And these are everywhere in practise now: And in this booke there are of these some store, With many others, never seene before. Here practise and invention may be free. And as a squirrel skips from tree to tree, So maids may (from their mistresse or their mother) Learne to leave one worke, and to learne another, For here they may make choice of which is which, And skip from worke to worke, from stitch to stitch, Until, in time, delightful practise shall (With profit) make them perfect in them all. Thus hoping that these workes may have this guide, To serve for ornament, and not for pride: To cherish vertue, banish idlenesse, For these ends, may this booke have good successe."

FOOTNOTES:

[115] It is worth while to remark the circumstance, that by a machine of the simplest construction, being nothing in fact but a tray, 20,000 needles thrown promiscuously together, mixed and entangled in every way, are laid parallel, heads to heads, and points to points, in the course of three or four minutes.

[116] Illustrations, vol. ii. p. 92.

[117] This seems to be a somewhat earlier edition of the second book in Mr. Douce's list.