Chapter 3
This insertion matches the edging or lace above described, and is, therefore, made in exactly the same way, except that the design is double. Both the edging and insertion may be made of any width desired; and the design will be found very pretty for fancy-edge or plain braids without the cord. Buttons or rings may be used in place of the "spiders" seen in the engravings if preferred.
No. 7.
DESIGN FOR A HONITON LACE CAP.
The design illustrated is, of necessity, much smaller than the cap it is intended for; but the clever student may easily enlarge it to, or design one for herself of the size required. Lace-makers will duplicate designs in any size desired for a moderate sum, thus saving the amateur much work and at the same time putting her to little expense.
The design here illustrated might also be used for handkerchief corners, scarf-ends, etc., etc.; and any of the stitches illustrated on preceding pages may be selected for filling-in purposes.
No. 8.
DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG, POINT, OR HONITON LACE.
According to the article to be decorated, this design will be found appropriate for either of the braids used for the laces above mentioned.
For table scarfs, tidies, heavy borders, etc., etc., the Battenburg braids should be selected; but for handkerchiefs or doilies, the point or Honiton braids are the proper ones to choose for this design.
Raleigh bars, Brussels point and any other stitches preferred, may be used in filling in the spaces. When a design is procured from a lace-maker a portion of it is always marked with the stitches to be used; but this is not an arbitrary matter, since the one who is to make the lace, may desire to and may insert other stitches in preference to those indicated.
No. 9.
DOILY IN "IDEAL HONITON" LACE-WORK AND LINEN LAWN.
One of the prettiest and the very newest of the modern laces is here illustrated. It is made of two of the many varieties of Honiton braids, wash-silk floss and linen lawn. The braid is basted smoothly upon a square of lawn in the design illustrated (though individual taste will no doubt suggest many other equally pretty designs), after which the _inner_ edges of the braid are permanently secured by a "short and long stitch." This is merely a short and long button-hole stitch _reversed_ so that the cross loops are on the edge of the braid, while the stitches them selves extend beyond the braid, into the lawn, as seen in the engraving. Two short stitches alternate with single long ones throughout this part of the work. The outer edges are then fastened to the square by tiny button-hole scollops. Then the lawn is cut from under the squares formed by the braid, and the openings are button-holed through the lawn and braid so that the edges of the lawn will not fray. When this is done the spaces are filled in with fancy stitches, and when they are completed the lawn is cut away from the edge-scollops with a pair of fine sharp, scissors. In the doily illustrated "spiders" and point de Venise stitches are used for filling in the spaces. The floss used may be white or tinted, the latter washing as well as the white; but as a rule, white or yellow flosses are selected in preference to other colors. "Ideal Honiton" scarfs, tidies, doilies, pillow shams, tray cloths, etc., etc., may be purchased with the braid already basted on in a pretty design and with the necessary threads or floss, or they may be designed at home, and by either method will result in a beautiful variety of modern lace.
No. 10.
DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG LACE.
Although this design is intended for Battenburg lace, and may be made up of any of the braids used for that kind of lace, it will also be found suitable for the finer point or Honiton braids for handkerchiefs, doilies, mats, etc., etc. As illustrated it would be suitable for a handkerchief. Enlarged and followed in Battenburg braid it would make a very handsome border for a table-scarf, curtains or draperies, or a substantial decoration for a gown of wash fabric or other goods. Raleigh bars, "spiders" and point de Bruxelles stitches are used for filling in, and a dainty picot edge is sewed to the outer line of the braid. Plain or fancy braid may be used for this design. If fancy loop-edge braid is selected, the picot edge will not be needed, the loops taking its place.
No. 11.
BATTENBURG EDGING.
The edging here illustrated is represented about one-third less than its actual width, but the design is so distinctly brought out that its beauty in any width may be readily conceived. It is formed of fancy Battenburg braid, but may be made from a plain variety if preferred. The design is known as the fern leaf and is easy to follow. Sorrento bars are used to connect the work, and "spiders" are made here and there to add variety to the work. Point de Bruxelles stitches are used to fill in the spaces at the sides of the leaves, and, with the fancy braid, produce a very dainty, delicate effect.
No. 12.
BATTENBURG INSERTION.
This insertion is made to match the edging seen above it, but is much wider than the edging, though formed of the same braid. Either design could be varied so as to result in an edging and insertion of equal width, or the edging could be arranged for an insertion, and the insertion illustrated changed into an edging.
No. 13.
FINGER-BOWL DOILY OF PRINCESS LACE AND LINEN LAWN.
Princess lace, (also known as Duchesse lace) as elsewhere mentioned, results from combining Honiton and point lace braids in one design; and a charming specimen of this lovely lace is here illustrated.
The doily is pictured only a trifle smaller than its actual size, and even in its full size is a very dainty affair. After the braids are basted along the design, they are then connected by twisted bars that are an adaptation from the point d'Alençon bars with the twisted stitch; and the spaces are filled in in small d'Angleterre rosettes or "spiders." As few bars as possible are employed for the spiders, in order to produce a very delicate effect. The lawn center is added last.
No. 14.
DESIGN FOR INSERTION, OR A CENTER-PIECE, IN BATTENBURG LACE.
As suggested by the title, the design here presented may be used for insertion, or for a center to a table cloth or scarf, or a handsome spread. As represented it is intended for a center-piece, and the lace from which the engraving was made is about half-a-yard long and one-fourth of a yard wide. The ground-work is formed of Raleigh bars made with picots, and the loops of braid are filled in with twisted point d'Alençon bars.
This center-piece is very pretty made of ribbon with silk thread for the bars, and in this event it may be made of any color desired, and added to a spread or scarf of Surah silk or fine cloth, for which a border to match may be made.
No. 15.
QUEEN ANNE TRAY-CLOTH OF BATTENBURG LACE AND LINEN.
This pretty cloth is intended for a Queen Anne tray, and its lace edges curve upward and just over the rim of the tray when it is laid upon it. The center is of fine table-linen, while the edge is formed of Battenburg braid, buttons and fancy stitches. As will be seen, the corner spaces are filled in with point d'Angleterre rosettes or "spiders," the large border spaces and corresponding corner ones are filled in with picot bars, while the very fine work seen in the triangles and square spaces are point de Venise stitches, and half-spiders are made in the other triangles. The narrow, straight inner border is composed of bars and tiny buttons arranged as represented. The cloth is hem-stitched before the braid is laid on, and the corners are cut out from underneath after the work is otherwise completed.
No. 16.
DESIGN FOR A BUTTERFLY IN POINT LACE. (FULL SIZE).
Butterflies for the corners of handkerchiefs, scarf-ends and the points of caps or coiffures are favorite designs in point and Honiton laces. The one illustrated is very dainty and exceedingly simple to execute. The upper portion of each wing has a point de reprise ground-work, but the solid sections are tiny spiders instead of point de reprise triangles. The outer tips of the wings are filled in with Raleigh bars, while similar bars, point de Bruxelles stitches and a point d'Angleterre rosette complete the lower wings. Any of the fine point or Honiton braids may be chosen for the outlining of the butterfly, and a fine over-and-over stitch or fine cord may be used to mark the lines extending from the head.
No. 17.
DESIGN FOR A DOILY OR HANDKERCHIEF OF POINT OR HONITON LACE.
This design, as illustrated, is of course too small for either a doily or handkerchief, but an expert lace-maker can enlarge it to any size desired; and the clever amateur will find no difficulty in doing the same thing, as the outlines are not at all intricate, and may be easily followed. In sending for the braid for this, or similar designs, it is advisable to permit the lace-maker addressed to select them, and of course, the thread, since her long experience enables her at once to correctly judge what materials are appropriate for the articles you wish to make, especially if she knows the size the article is desired to be. The stitches, as here indicated, are point d'Angleterre rosettes, and point de fillet, with small "spiders" on the latter. A dainty picot-braid edges the design.
No. 18.
"CARDINAL'S POINT" LACE.
This engraving represents a modern adaptation of an ancient lace which may be made of fancy Battenburg braid and plain Raleigh bars. The design is not especially definite in its outlines, and may be imitated with any variations which may seem pleasing to the copyist. The picots are made after the method directed at the illustration of point de Venise bars in the department devoted to stitches. "Cardinal's point" of genuine make is of Italian origin, and in the earlier eras, was largely used for the decoration of church vestments and draperies.
Nos. 19 and 20.
BATTENBURG EDGING AND INSERTION, WITH CORD.
These two engravings show a very pretty design for Battenburg lace made with a cord finish. The application of the cord has been fully described elsewhere, where a different design of the same kind of work is given. In the present instance the spaces are filled in with twisted bars, "spiders" and rosettes in point d'Angleterre. The specimens from which the engravings were made are a trifle wider than seen in the pictures; but the width is a matter of individual taste, and also a result of the braid selected. A professional lace-maker will enlarge or adapt the design to accord with personal requirements.
No. 21.
TAPE-GUIPURE DESIGN, FOUND IN AN OLD CHURCH.
The design here illustrated was found in the old church of Santa Margherita, in Italy. It was drawn on parchment, and was undoubtedly intended as a design for altar lace. It was mentioned in a book of accounts for the year 1592, found in the archives of the church designated and is therefore of antique origin; but it may be easily adapted to modern methods of lace-making, and could be appropriately filled in with either Italian or Genoa lace stitches or with a combination of both, and twisted bars. Done with fancy Battenburg braid, it would be quite similar in effect to the "Cardinal's Point" illustrated on another page.
No. 22.
BATTENBURG CHURCH LACE.
The engraving opposite illustrates a magnificent specimen of Modern Church Lace made of Battenburg braid with a limited introduction of Honiton braid. The specimen itself is considerably wider than represented, but as the width is a matter of individual taste, the engraving will serve as a design for a narrow church lace.
Sorrento bars are used to connect the braids and to form foundations for the spiders or rosettes here and there inserted, and the lace is delicately bordered with a dainty picot-braid. The fancy stitches in the main portions of the cross are point de Valenciennes, while those in the minor sections are point de Bruxelles.
Point de fillet is used for the central portion of the large T-shaped symbol, while the stitch forming the other symbol is one never used except for church lace, and consists of two or three sets of fine stitches so interlaced as to seem to form one solid stitch.
In making church lace any insignia desired can be introduced by a professional designer--an accomplishment that is usually beyond the inventive powers of the novice in lace-making.
No. 23.
ENGLISH NEEDLE-POINT.
This is a very handsome design combining the lily and the rose. The foundation work is made with unbleached linen braid having an ornamental edge, and the filling-in is done with fine and coarse linen thread in various stitches. Raleigh bars with picots define the upper edge of the edging, and Sorrento bars on which buttons are worked form the ground work.
Point de Grecque, point d'Angleterre, d'Alençon bars plain and twisted, point de Bruxelles and "spiders" are also used in making this lace, as will be seen from a close inspection of the engraving.
This specimen of lace is very handsome when developed in black silk braids and silk thread, for black costumes.
No. 24.
PUNCH-GLASS DOILY OF POINT LACE AND LAWN.
As represented this doily is about three-fourths of its actual size. It is made of fine linen lawn, and a set generally comprises a dozen. Fine point lace braid is used to outline the design, and then rosettes in point d'Angleterre, and "spiders" or small rosettes are made in the openings as represented. The alternate outer scallops are filled in with point de Bruxelles stitches, and a dainty picot-braid is added to the edge by the usual over-and-over stitch.
No. 25.
POINT LACE COLLAR AND CUFF.
A very handsome point lace set is here illustrated, and may be easily followed by an expert lace-maker; but it will be wiser for the novice to obtain a pattern or design of the shape and size desired, from a professional lace-maker. Point de Grecque, point de Bruxelles, point de Venise, Sorrento bars, and rosettes and rings are all employed in carrying out this design. As elsewhere mentioned, any fine stitch preferred may be used for filling-in purposes when those suggested or marked out upon a design are not admired.
No. 26.
DESIGN FOR TABLE SCARF IN BATTENBURG LACE.
The scarf-end from which this design was copied is about ten inches deep, and it is about fourteen or fifteen inches wide. It will be seen from these dimensions, that it is impossible to produce a full-size design of it on these pages, but one of any size desired may be obtained at any lace-makers; or, a clever student of lace-making may enlarge the design to suit her own requirements. According to the size of the scarf-end, wide or narrow braid must be selected, with thread to correspond. The stitches used in filling in are point de fillet, point de Bruxelles and point d'Angleterre, and Raleigh, Sorrento and d'Alençon bars, and rosettes and "spiders."
No. 27.
APPLE DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG LACE.
This design is for the corner of a scarf, spread, tidy or pillow-sham and is very popular, as it is effective though simply made. The fine stitches are point de Bruxelles, while the others are Raleigh, Sorrento and point Grecque bars. Plain or fancy braid, or a combination of both may be used in this design with a charming effect.
No. 28.
ROMAN PUNCH-GLASS DOILY IN POINT LACE.
Doilies of this description are generally made about four inches square. The engraving opposite pictures the doily mentioned as somewhat smaller, but the design is sufficiently large to enable the student to make her doilies as large as she desires them to be, as it is easy to follow. The corner spaces are filled in with twisted bars and rings worked at the same time; but rosettes or spiders may be worked in place of the rings if preferred. The corner spaces are filled in in point Brabançon, and for those at each side point de Bruxelles is used. The doily is edged with a fine picot-braid that finishes it daintily, and very sheer linen lawn is used for the center.
No. 29.
MODERN RUSSIAN LACE.
The design illustrated may be followed in Battenburg braid or plain lace tape, and any of the fancy stitches mentioned and described among the rosettes, bars and picots may be employed for filling-in purposes. Cream white or unbleached braids or tapes are prettier for Russian lace than pure white. Russian lace is a very durable as well as effective trimming for household draperies, and also for gowns of wash fabrics or those of cotton fabrics which will not need renovating.
No. 30.
RUSSIAN LACE.
This engraving represents a specimen of genuine Russian lace made of fine braid, and wrought with bars similar to Raleigh bars, except that they have no picots. The Russians have always been noted for their exquisite needle-work, but as a nation they have never had any established lace manufactory. The workers of the small amount of lace produced are scattered about at their own houses, and many of them are poor ladies of gentle birth. Most of the laces, however, are made by the peasantry, who bring them to St. Petersburg where sale for them is found.
No. 31.
BOW-KNOT DESIGN FOR MODERN LACE.
This fashionable design may be developed in various widths and braids as an insertion, or as an appliqué on lawn. The ground-work may be formed of Raleigh bars, or of twisted bars made like the net-work for Raleigh bars. The loops of the bows may be filled in with point de Bruxelles or any fine stitch preferred. The design is pretty for bordering table scarfs, tidies, valances and curtains when heavy braids are selected. The finer braids render the design appropriate for handkerchiefs and dainty trimming laces.
No. 32.
PRINCESS LACE DOILY DESIGN.
The design here illustrated may be enlarged or simplified to please individual taste, and it may be made of Honiton braid as well as point. The connecting stitches may be point de Bruxelles, Raleigh and Sorrento bars, "spiders" or any of the fine stitches described and illustrated in the department devoted to stitches. A dainty picot braid follows the outer edge of the doily. This design, enlarged sufficiently, would form an elegant pattern for a lace handkerchief.
No. 33.
ALTAR LACE (BATTENBURG).
This very elegant specimen of altar lace is, in reality, about nine or ten inches deep; but, for want of space the engraving represents it as only about half as wide. The design, however, is perfect in detail, and the illustration fully displays its effectiveness, and discloses the variety of connecting and filling-in stitches used. A delicate Battenburg braid is chosen for the foundation, and in addition to regular lace stitches, those from drawn work are here and there interspersed. The cross is filled in in point de Venise, (or side stitch as it is sometimes called), and the same stitch is seen in the central design at each side of the cross. Drawn-work effects are seen also in these central figures and along the borders. Sorrento bars are here made and knotted at the center like drawn strands, or are connected by rosettes or "spiders" made in drawn-work style. At the center of the cross is a large drawn-work wheel, while small Maltese crosses and half-crosses are made elsewhere in the work by the drawn-work method, Sorrento bars taking the place of the usual strands. The central section of the border at the right of the cross is done in point de Bruxelles which is afterward button-holed as in bar-work, and a button-hole picot edge follows the lower outlines of the pattern. Raleigh bars with picots form the connecting ground-work throughout the work. This beautiful specimen shows two distinct methods of filling in the sections between the crosses. Either may be used alone, or the two may be used alternately with the crosses.
No. 34.
BATTENBURG OR POINT LACE COLLAR AND CUFF.
These engravings represent a very graceful design for a lace collar and cuffs. As suggested in the title, the set may be made of point or Battenburg braid. The leaf-points are all filled in with d'Alençon bars in the twisted stitch, while the centers are completed with rosettes or small open "spiders," and the latter are distributed elsewhere as will be seen by inspecting the engraving. Point de Grecque is also introduced into some of the spaces, and Raleigh bars are used for the ground-work. Any of the stitches previously described may be used in making such a collar if those mentioned are not admired; and the addition of buttons or rings will improve the work greatly.
No. 35.
FLOUNCE IN BATTENBURG LACE.
A very elegant flounce of Battenburg lace may be made after the design represented on the opposite page. The picture shows the flounce just one-half its actual width; but even this width would be very handsome as a band for the bottom of a dress. By a close inspection of the stitches seen and a reference to these illustrated in the department devoted to stitches, the various kinds here used may be easily identified. They consist of point de Venise, point de Bruxelles, Sorrento and d'Alençon bars and "spiders." A fine picot braid edges each side of the flounce. The design can be obtained in any width desired from a reliable lace-maker.
No. 36.
BUTTERFLY DESIGN FOR POINT LACE.
This design is for point lace braid, and is very easily made. Fancy bars made after an adaptation from the d'Alençon bars, and point de Venise stitches are used for filling in. The butterfly may be used as a portion of an edging design, or as a corner or center for any small article to be decorated. The lines extending from the head are made with a fine over-and-over stitch, or a fine cord.
No. 37.
VENETIAN POINT LACE.