The Art of Home Candy Making, with Illustrations

Part 2

Chapter 24,412 wordsPublic domain

It is more convenient to buy your nuts already shelled, although it is more expensive. English walnuts are probably used more than any other nut, for tops of bon-bons and centers also. It is probably better to purchase these with shells on and crack them yourself, as they are very easily cracked.

In purchasing these nuts, get the smallest ones possible, as the smaller they are the prettier they will look on your candies. We advise you to always keep your bon-bons small in size.

The California English walnuts do not crack out as pretty as the Grenoble nut does, as the meat in them is a much prettier shape and rougher on top, and looks much nicer on the bons-bons. The Grenoble nut is an English walnut, imported from Germany, and you may always distinguish them from the fact that you can stand them on end; while a California English walnut is so pointed at the ends that it will not stand up. Crack carefully on the side which does not have the ridge running down it, as then the halves will come out perfectly whole. The ones that break may be chopped up and saved, to be used in the centers of the bon-bons.

Almonds are very easily cracked and you will have no trouble with them. Always crack hickory nuts on the edge. Black walnuts should be cracked on the broad side, as you never use them only in small pieces, and it is not necessary to use any care in cracking them. In some candies, these walnuts are finer than any other nut, as they give the candy a peculiar flavor, especially in caramels and different taffies. These are the ordinary walnuts that grow wild all over the country.

Pecans are a very hard nut to get out whole, but if you purchase as large thin-shelled ones as possible, put them in a pan, pour cold water over them, let them stand for about five hours, then pour off the water and let stand for a while, or even over night until they dry off on the outside, you will then be able to get the meats out very nicely without them breaking much. They are a very brittle nut, but by soaking them as directed, they do not break very easily. Crack on the side which does not have the small vein running from end to end, taking care not to hit them too hard, and you will find that the halves will split open very nicely; and if you will use a little care in removing them from the shell, by using a knife with which to loosen them around the edge, you will be able to get a great many of the halves out perfect.

Use the perfect halves for the tops of your bon-bons. Pick over the broken ones and save the largest pieces of them with which to make Chocolate Pecan Fritters (see recipe), and the small pieces you may chop up fine and use for centers. It takes about two pounds of unshelled pecans, almonds, or English walnuts, to make one pound of shelled meats.

For peanut candy, always get if possible, the small unroasted Spanish peanut, and they may be purchased of any confectioner or candy factory, and at a great many of the large stores. They come already shelled and should cost you from twelve and one half to fifteen cents a pound. These nuts are much finer in flavor than the large peanut, and by using the raw ones and roasting them in the candy as we direct you in the recipe, you will find the flavor of your candy much nicer. Of course, if you wish to use peanuts for the centers of bon-bons or chocolate creams, any kind of roasted ones chopped up will answer the purpose.

In chopping your nuts, it is much better to lay them on the table and use a butcher knife with which to cut them up, than it is to put them in a bowl and use a chopping knife; as by chopping them in a bowl, you are unable to get them so uniform, as the ones at the bottom will be chopped up into a fine powder, for which you have no use, before the ones on top are small enough. By cutting them up with a knife as directed, you will be able to get them all about the same size. You will see the advantage of this after trying it once.

Pistachio nuts make one of the prettiest tops you can find for bon-bons. They are a small, dark green nut, which may be purchased at a great many large grocery stores in cities, if you live convenient to one. Also some confectioners have them on hand, but not many of them. They are an expensive nut, but a few of them go a great ways, as they must be split in two. After splitting them open, save the prettiest halves for the tops of the bon-bons, and all broken and off-colored ones you may chop up very fine, and use for sprinkling over the tops of your pink bon-bons and they also look very pretty sprinkled over chocolate creams before the chocolate hardens.

BON-BON CREAM (FONDANT).

Have all of these articles conveniently at hand: Place the table in a position where the air will strike it on all sides from a door or window. Be sure that it is level and that you can pass around it. Arrange the kettle in the most convenient manner, so that when you lift it off the stove you will not have to turn it about or jar it unnecessarily, as this is sufficient to spoil the syrup.

BON-BON CREAM.

5 pounds Granulated Sugar. 6 drops Acetic Acid. 1½ pints cold Water.

Put the sugar and water into the kettle and place it over a HOT FIRE (it must boil quickly and not be allowed to simmer), and stir constantly until it commences to boil. It is not necessary to stir quickly, but the sugar must not be allowed to settle. USE THE WOODEN PADDLE or spoon to stir with, and splash the syrup against the sides of the kettle to wash down the granulations. Just before the syrup begins to boil, wipe down the sides of the kettle with a damp cloth and BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO GRANULATIONS ON THE SIDES OF THE KETTLE, because, unless they are removed they would make the fondant gritty. NEVER STIR THE SYRUP AFTER IT BEGINS TO BOIL. NEVER JAR OR MOVE THE KETTLE WHILE THE SYRUP IS COOKING.

When the syrup begins to boil, add the acetic acid. Drop it on a spoon because you might not drop it accurately. TOO MUCH ACID would spoil the candy. Put the lid on the kettle and let it steam for several minutes. This is done so that the steam will wash down the sides of the kettle and remove some remaining grains of sugar that might be sticking to the sides. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT ALL OF THESE GRAINS SHOULD BE REMOVED. Do not remove the lid until the steam is coming out freely around the edges, because it does not matter if the lid is left on a little longer than three minutes. Remove the lid and put in the thermometer, so that the bulb is covered with the syrup. The thermometer may be read easier if it is fastened to the kettle by the hook on the back of the case. If a black scum appears on the surface do not disturb it until it gathers into a bunch, then carefully remove it by using a spoon and do not disturb the syrup.

While the syrup is cooking, prepare the slab by washing it with a damp cloth. Do not dry it and NEVER GREASE THE SLAB WHEN MAKING FONDANT. Place the bars in position. If you use a platter instead of a slab, it must be ice cold.

When the thermometer registers =240= (remember to make the correct allowance if your thermometer does not register =212= in boiling water), remove it quickly. See that your way is clear, lift the kettle off the stove and carry it to the slab, taking great care not to shake the syrup. Pour the syrup on the slab, beginning in the center at one end of the slab, pouring down toward the corner and while doing this, keep the kettle as close to the slab as you can, and at the end, quickly tip up the kettle so that it will not drip. NEVER ALLOW THE LAST OF THE SYRUP TO DRIP OUT OVER WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY POURED ON THE SLAB. NEVER SCRAPE OUT THE KETTLE, because these drops and scrapings will granulate, and when the syrup is cold there will be sugared spots on top. If this should occur, they must be removed before the syrup is worked, because they would make the fondant gritty. NEVER MOVE THE TABLE OR PLATTER WHILE THE SYRUP IS COOLING AS THIS WOULD RUIN THE CANDY. Allow the syrup to remain on the slab until cold. Test it by using the back of the hand, as it is more sensitive than the palm. WHEN THE SYRUP IS COLD IT IS READY TO BE WORKED. Then it should be as smooth as glass.

WORKING THE FONDANT.

Remove the bars by running a corner of the scraper between them and the syrup.

With the scraper or wooden paddle commence by scooping or turning the syrup toward the center so as to get it into a mass in the center of the slab, as shown in Fig. 1. Continue turning it over and over; always work from the edge and keep the scraper in the position of Fig. 1. The mass will move from one end of the slab to the other, but by always working around the edge, you will be able to keep the syrup in a mass and prevent it from spreading over the slab. Each time that you turn up the syrup, scrape the slab clean and turn the scraper up and over the mass as shown in Fig. 2. This movement removes the syrup from the scraper and when it works up to the handle, clean the scraper with a knife. Sugar will soon appear on the under side of the scraper, but this is only an indication that the syrup is reaching the creamy stage, when it will become much thinner and easier to work; also it will require more rapid working to prevent it from running off the slab. (Fig. 3.)

When this stage is reached, work rapidly and in a short time it will become harder and finally become a hard ball when it is finished (Fig. 4). Scrape off any remaining particles on the slab; clean the scraper, and put this sugar on the batch. Wring out a heavy cotton cloth out of COLD WATER (such as a piece of toweling), so that it is damp, and place this cloth over the fondant on the slab; tuck it in on all sides, allowing it to remain for a half hour. This sweats or seasons it and mellows the fondant. Remove the cloth and your efforts will be rewarded by a mass of snow-white fondant, smooth as velvet. Cut it into chunks and put them into a crock or stone jar. Wet the cloth, (wring it out well), and lay it over the top of the crock. It must not touch the fondant, because the cloth will draw the syrup and absorb the moisture of the fondant. In three days it will be ready for use.

The fondant may be kept six months in a dry, cool place. Keep the cloth moist. You may have the delicious bon-bons at any time, as the fondant is always ready for immediate use.

If, after you have poured the syrup on the slab, you find that some scum has poured out with it, remove it just before you begin to work the syrup, because it will then be cold and there will be no danger of spoiling it.

If, when you begin to work the syrup and you find there are granulations on the bottom of the slab, or through the syrup, it indicates that you disturbed the syrup while cooking, jarred it too much when pouring it out, cooked it too high or did not cool it rapidly. If this should occur, work the syrup according to the above instructions and the sugar may be used for cooking purposes or for any kind of candy EXCEPT FONDANT.

You never beat the fondant, but it may be kneaded before putting it into the crock, if you wish to make it finer grained.

When the fondant is kept for any length of time, a crust forms on top, if the cloth becomes dry, which may be melted with the rest of the fondant. It is not spoiled. The contact of the air is the cause of this crust forming. Moisten the cloth and the crust will soften in a short while.

IMPORTANT: Never begin to work the syrup until it is cold. This is one of the secrets of perfect bon-bon cream.

Before you pour the syrup on the slab, wet your hand a little in cold water and moisten the slab, but do not get it too wet.

If any of the syrup should run out, hold something at the place where it is running out underneath the bars (for a minute or two) until the syrup hardens a little and it will stop running out. NEVER PUT THE SYRUP THAT HAS RUN OUT IN THE BATCH ON THE SLAB, BECAUSE IT WOULD MAKE THE WHOLE BATCH GRAINY.

Always use the same side of the slab for fondant, and this side must never be greased.

Bon-bon cream should always be covered, so that it does not dry out.

It should not be used the same day that it is made.

Don’t allow the batch to get too cold, as that takes all the life out of the sugar.

The crock may be covered with wax paper and a lid.

Do not make a batch larger than what you can cool quickly on your slab, because it will take too long to cool properly. Sugar that is cooled slowly loses its strength and after it is melted, it will not keep a good string, and also will be dull looking within a few days.

If the fondant in the crock becomes hard from neglecting to keep the cloth damp with which it is covered, wet the cloth, squeeze it slightly and place it over the crock. The moisture will be taken up by the fondant, which will be as good as before the moisture was evaporated.

If you should be so unfortunate as to spoil a batch of fondant, you can use the sugar for most any kind of candy, except fondant or orientals, by simply using the grained fondant in place of sugar.

MAPLE FONDANT.

2 pounds Maple Sugar. 1 pound Granulated Sugar. 1 pint Water.

If you cannot procure the maple sugar, use the following recipe:

4 pounds Maple Syrup. 1 pound Granulated Sugar. ½ pint Water.

Maple fondant is made in the same manner as bon-bon cream. There is no acid used with the maple fondant.

It is more sticky than the white fondant, but is delicious.

COFFEE FONDANT.

1 pound Sugar. 2 drops Acetic Acid. 1 cup strong Coffee.

Follow the directions given for bon-bon cream.

FILLINGS FOR BON-BONS.

You may use fillings of any kind you are particularly fond of, but we will mention a few, so as to give you an idea of the different kinds, and will tell you how to use them later on. One of the finest fillings is composed of candied cherries and candied citron ground up together, or chopped very fine. If you should have a food grinder in the house, use that for this purpose; but if you have none, a chopping knife and bowl will answer the purpose. About two parts cherries and one part citron makes a fine combination, but you may use any proportion you wish. A small amount of candied orange peel ground with them, gives a peculiar flavor, which is liked by many Any kind of candied fruit, such as pears, plums, limes, or pineapple, ground very fine, make a nice filling. Figs, after removing the hard part around the stem, then ground up alone or with a little orange peel added to them, make a very fine filling. In fact, most any fruit of this order, such as raisins or dates, will do, but they are not so nice as the French candied fruits. It is best to prepare quite an amount of these different fillings while you are at it, as they will keep indefinitely without drying out, if put in a small jar of some kind with a tight cover on it. By doing this you will save a great deal of time and trouble, as your fillings are always prepared for you, and any time you wish to make a few bon-bons it will not be necessary to stop and grind your fillings.

Almond paste, which may be purchased at any bakery where they make macaroons, makes a very fine filling. It is all prepared when you buy it, and is to be worked in with the bon-bon cream the same as the chopped fruit. It is not expensive, and will also keep for a long time in a closed jar.

Ground pecans, English walnuts, hickory nuts, and Brazil nuts (sometimes called nigger toes), are about the best nuts to use for centers. It is also best to grind as many of these at a time as possible, as they will not spoil in cold weather. Fresh grated cocoanut may also be used, by working it in your bon-bon cream, for centers of cocoanut bon-bons; but we will tell you a much nicer way to make a cocoanut filling later on. Any bon-bon with the ground fruit center in it will keep fresh much longer than one in which you use only nuts. You will find that, if you put enough ground fruit in the centers, after your bon-bons are a week or ten days old, they are very soft and sticky inside, which is caused by the fruit sweating, and are delicious. Some people will wonder how you were ever able to get a center so soft.

HOW TO MAKE BON-BONS.

As nearly all bon-bons are made in the same manner, we will explain very carefully how to make one or two kinds, and after you understand the idea, you may make any shape, color, or flavor you desire. We will now tell you how to make pink, rose flavor bon-bons, in several shapes. Take a small amount of bon-bon cream, and from one third to one half as much ground cherries and citron (see article on Bon-Bon Fillings) as you have bon-bon cream, and with your hands work and knead them well together. This center, especially, is very sticky, and you will be obliged to work enough XXXX or confectioners’ sugar into it to make it stiff enough so that you can mould it up into different shapes easily. Right here we will say that in getting the XXXX sugar, do not allow them to give you XXX sugar, as it is a little gritty, while XXXX sugar is as smooth as flour. Of course, if you cannot obtain XXXX sugar the other will do, but is not so nice.

After you commence kneading this bon-bon cream and fruit, add a little sugar at a time, knead it in well and as soon as you get the mass so it feels a little dry, it is ready to mould up. You must use a little judgment in doing this, as you only need work sufficient sugar into it to make it stiff enough so that the centers will retain their shape after being moulded. If you wish any flavoring, put a few drops into it while you are working in the sugar. In centers where you use only chopped nuts, and no fruit of any kind, it is not necessary to use much, if any sugar at all, as the nuts have a tendency to make the cream work up dry. Sometimes bon-bon cream is stickier than it is at other times, so if necessary use the sugar, but never use any other than XXXX or confectioners’ sugar.

When worked sufficiently, cut off a piece and roll it with your hands into a long roll about as large around as a cigar; then cut in small pieces about one half inch long and roll each of them in your hands until they are perfectly round, then lay them on a piece of wax paper, and when they are all moulded, set them in a cool place for a while until they harden a little. We advise rolling out in this manner before cutting up to roll into balls, as it will enable you to get them all about the same size. If you find upon starting to roll them into balls that it is still too sticky, you must knead in a little more sugar.

Do not get the centers too large, as your bon-bons are much prettier when small. Bear this in mind in all bon-bon making, as most amateurs have a tendency to make their bon-bons and chocolates too large, and the more dainty your candy looks, both as to size and color, the better it tastes. After making part of them round, take the remainder of the mass and pat it out into a flat piece about one-half inch thick and cut it up in strips seven-eighths inch wide; then take each strip and cut it into pieces about one-half inch wide and here you have oblong centers seven-eighths by one-half inch, which are for the centers of bon-bons, on top of which you put a nut. Remember, after these centers are coated they will be quite a little larger than this, and you must try and keep them small enough so that after they are coated, the half of an English walnut will almost completely cover the top of them. Of course if you use a smaller nut for the top, your bon-bons will necessarily be larger than the nut, and still they will not be large enough to look bad. The ones upon the top of which you use the half of a pistachio nut, must necessarily be considerably larger than the nut. We give you these little details, as they improve the looks of your candy so much, and you will be able to make them to look pretty the first time, and not be obliged to experiment any in order to get the correct size. If you wish to use a pistachio nut on these, they are prettier if you cut these centers =square=, instead of oblong, making them about five-eighths or three-fourths inch each way.

Experience alone will teach you as to how much bon-bon cream it will be necessary to melt up in order to cover the centers you have moulded. Put your bon-bon cream in the double boiler with boiling water under it, keep it on the fire and stir continually, that is, do not let it stand over a few minutes at a time without stirring, and when it is melted, flavor with a few drops of rose flavoring and color a delicate pink with Damask Rose coloring (Burnett’s), by adding a little at a time until you have the desired shade. It will probably be necessary to add a few drops of cold water to your fondant while melting in order to make it thin enough. Add the water very =sparingly=, as it does not require much to thin it, and if you get too much in, your bon-bons will not harden for you after being coated, and neither will they, if the cream is not hot before dipping. Test it the same as you do center cream, by sticking your tongue to it, and you should not allow it to get as hot as you do the center cream. Practice alone will tell you about how thin it should be. You must have it so that when you dip the bon-bons out and lay them on wax paper, they will not stick to the dipping fork, but drop off readily, and as you lift the fork the cream will string out a little so that you may make any design you wish on the top. After dipping a a few, you will understand more about this and will have no trouble. As soon as thin enough, and colored and flavored, set the double boiler on your table, leaving it in the hot water to keep it warm. You must avoid sitting in a draught while coating these, as this cream hardens very quickly. Now pick up a center, and with the dipping fork in your other hand stir the cream thoroughly on one side to break the crust which forms on top, then drop in the center, push it under with the fork, then stick the fork underneath it so it will rest as near the end of the fork as possible, lift it up and scrape off most of the surplus cream hanging to it by drawing it over the edge of kettle, then quickly turn your fork over and lay the bon-bon on the wax paper, lift the fork, and with the cream that strings up with it, make the design on top, by twisting it in the form of a knot. Do this by moving your fork quickly in a circle. You will see by this, as you lift the bon-bon out of the cream, the side, or bottom rather, which you scrape off on the edge of the kettle, is the top of the bon-bon after you turn your fork over and lay it on the paper; so do not scrape it off too much, as it is necessary to leave a little cream hanging there in order to have some lift up with the fork with which to make the design on top.