Part 1

[Transcriber's Notes: Bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= while italic text is surrounded by _underscores_.]

THE ART OF HOME CANDY MAKING

_WITH ILLUSTRATIONS_

_THIRD REVISED EDITION_

PUBLISHED BY THE HOME CANDY MAKERS CANTON, OHIO

Copyright 1913 by The Home Candy Makers Canton, Ohio

TO THE

LADIES OF THIS COUNTRY

WHO ARE FOND OF GOOD CANDY AND DESIRE TO LEARN THE ART OF MAKING IT, THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED.

INTRODUCTION

In presenting to you, our third edition of “The Art of Home Candy Making,” we can safely say, that a more complete or practical book, on Home Candy Making, cannot be found. We strive not only to give you a larger variety of the finest candies that can be made, but to make each recipe, so thorough and simple that anyone with a little study before making them, can make every piece in this book with little or no trouble at all.

In presenting a thermometer with each book and telling you how to use it, we lessen the work to such an extent, that when once using one, you would never attempt to make candy without it. In using a thermometer in candy-making, all it is necessary for you to do, is to put it down in the kettle in the boiling candy, and when it registers the required degree, the candy is done and cannot possibly be wrong.

Every batch you make will be just the same, as we give you the exact degree to cook every recipe. This book is intended for those who make candy at home, and does not contain a single recipe, but that may be made right at home in your own kitchen with a very small outlay for tools, other than for cooking material.

We have endeavored to make all things clear to you, but we must insist that you read each recipe over and study it carefully before starting to cook, if you wish success.

With this explanation we think you will agree with us that this is the most complete book on home candy making ever written.

Hoping you will make a success of your efforts, and with our assistance in answering all questions you will surely do so, we remain,

Very Truly Yours, THE HOME CANDY MAKERS.

Canton, O.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

After reading the introduction to this book, you will understand that it is not written for professional candy-makers, but for those who make candy at home; and consequently it is necessary to go into every little detail, which of course, will make these instructions rather lengthy.

We will endeavor to make them as plain as though we were holding a personal conversation with you, and explain to you, how to put the style and finish to each piece of your home-made candies, that will equal any of the finest grades of candy that are made today.

In reading these instructions, do not get the idea that any single one of these recipes are too difficult for you to make, for you will find they are very simple when once you have begun.

Any of these may be cut down or increased as you desire, but always use the same proportions, and cook the batch to the same degree. Remember, the =degree= is always the =same=, no matter how =large or small= you make your batches.

Do not think it absolutely necessary to get everything in the line of tools that we mention in this book, to have success with your candy, as it is not. For our whole aim is to teach you how to make your candies with as little expense as possible. But to those who wish to go into it a little deeper than others, or who make their candy to sell, it would be well for them to have as many of these tools as possible, for while not being a necessity, are a great convenience.

These candies can be made at an average cost of from eight to fifteen cents per pound for the materials used in them. In bon-bons the cost is considerably lower than in chocolates as you will find out.

This chocolate coating you will use for dipping, is very expensive, but you will find your chocolate creams cost you about fifteen cents per pound in the end; and they are the same grade of chocolates that you pay from sixty to eighty cents per pound for in the best candy shops.

There is no way to cheapen your coating chocolate, but one pound of chocolate will cover two to three pounds of candy, according to the kind of candy to be dipped, as some are heavier than others.

By bon-bons we mean the fancy colored ones with the fancy centers, and coated with bon-bon cream; not chocolate coated ones, as we call those chocolate bon-bons.

The cooking question, which is three-fourths of candy-making, is here solved by the use of the thermometer, which accompanies this book. By cooking your candy with a thermometer, you are not only exempt from burning or overcooking your batches, but your candy will always be exactly the same; and after you have made the bon-bon cream alone, you would not take many times the cost of this book for your thermometer, if you thought you could not procure another.

If at any time you have trouble with any recipe, look and see if you have followed the instructions exactly as written, and if you have and it does not act right, drop us a line, enclosing a stamp for reply, telling us in as few words as possible, how it acts and where it is not right, and we will write at once where your trouble is. If one of your batches shows signs of turning to sugar or gets gritty, simply try it again and use a little more glucose than called for in the recipe. But we know that if you follow the instructions and read every recipe carefully before making it, that you will never have any trouble, as we make these candies ourselves every day, and we know that these recipes are correct. Therefore we repeat, that you must be exact in your weighing and the degree you cook the batch to, if you wish success.

These candies can be seen at any time, at either of Mr. Ned. R. Goldberg’s stores in Canton, O.

In giving you the following recipes we will no doubt shatter a great many ideas that you now have in regard to home candy making; especially as to the style of cooking, size of batch, and length of time you keep your fondants after being made.

In making your Christmas candies, commence from three to four weeks before hand, and make your chocolate creams first, as they will keep perfectly for that length of time, and even longer. Make your bon-bon cream at least two weeks before Christmas, and let it have a few days to season before making it into bon-bons. It will keep for six weeks in cold weather if necessary and all you have to do is to dampen the cloth about twice a week, and keep it in a cool, dry place; if you wish to make bon-bons or wafers at any time, just go to the crock, take out as much as you need, replace the cloth, and it is ready for the next time.

If you have a fair sized slab, you can make at least a five-pound batch of fondant at one time, but if you use a platter to cool it on, we would not advise you to make more than about two pounds at a time, as it will not cool quick enough, and is then liable to grain.

If you ever have a batch of fondant so grainy that you cannot use it, simply cream it up and use it for fudge or caramels in place of sugar as the recipe calls.

A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE NECESSARY TOOLS.

The number of tools absolutely necessary for making candy at home, are very few outside of your ordinary cooking utensils. But we will mention a few of them here, so that you may know just what to get in case you care to purchase them.

=The Thermometer=—You already have, (see article on “How to Use the Thermometer.”)

=Marble Slab=—The next most important thing both for its usefulness and convenience is a marble slab. While it is not absolutely necessary to have one, we would advise everyone to make an effort to get one. Almost any size or kind of a piece of marble will do. If you have an old marble top stand, dresser or some other piece of furniture with a marble top, use that. If you purchase one, see that it has a nice smooth top, and the size about 18 x 18 inches. It does not matter if it is a little larger one way, but this is the standard size. You can buy candy slabs most any size of any marble dealer very cheap. If you have a large stone platter, you can use that for nearly every kind of candy in this book; but buy a slab by all means if you can.

=Steel Bars for Slab=—Get four steel bars ¾ x ½ inch in thickness, (they will cost you about thirty cents at any hardware store). Measure your slab before buying the bars in this way; if the slab is 18 x 18 inches, get two bars each 17 inches long, then get two each 16 inches long; these bars are shorter than the first ones, so that they may be set in between the long ones, making as large or small a dish as the individual batch requires.

=Scraper=—The best thing to use for creaming up the different kinds of fondants is an ordinary wall paper scraper, which can be bought for ten cents at any hardware store. A wooden butter paddle will answer the purpose if you cannot get a scraper.

=Candy Paddle=—A wooden paddle is better to use in stirring candy than a spoon, especially those candies that contain milk or cream, as they must be stirred continually while cooking to prevent scorching, and you are very liable to get burned. Take a piece of wood about 15 inches long and about 2½ inches wide on the paddle end, and about ½ inch thick and taper it towards the other end for a handle. Keep this paddle exclusively for stirring candy.

=Spatula=—A spatula is a very convenient tool for the kitchen and is really as useful for cooking as candy-making. It may be used for scraping out the candy kettle, cake bowl, removing pies or cookies from the pan, icing cakes and in various other ways. A spatula nine inches long will cost you about 25c at any hardware store.

=Kettle=—Take a granite kettle holding about 2½ gallons, and it will hold any size batch given in this book. Some candies boil up considerably and it is necessary to have a large kettle to avoid its running over. If you make only a pound or so of candy at a time, take a smaller kettle, so the syrup will not scorch and that the bulb of our thermometer will be well down in the boiling syrup. If possible get a round bottom kettle, which is better than a flat one, because there are no edges for the syrup to stick to, and it is much easier to stir, especially those that must be stirred while cooking.

=Funnel=—If you make wafers frequently, you will find that a funnel will be a great help to you in dropping them, so that they will be uniform. Have a tinner make you one after these directions: Shape a piece of tin 8 inches long like a cornucopia, 6 inches at the top and tapering to the opening at the bottom, which should be ⅜ of an inch in diameter; the handle should be about 5 inches long and shaped like a dipper handle. A round stick, a flag stick, tapered to fit the opening is used in dropping the wafers. This funnel is also used for dropping the cream centers for chocolate. (See article on “How to Mold in Cornstarch.”)

=Candy Hook=—In making all kinds of taffy, a hook is the best thing to pull it on, for taffy which is pulled in this manner, will be lighter and more fluffy than if pulled with the hands alone. Any blacksmith can make you one very cheap in this manner: Take a piece of tinned iron 17 inches long, and ½ or ¾ inch in diameter; commence a little over half way down and bend it up like a fish hook. Have the other end flattened out a little and have two holes bored about two inches apart so you can screw it on the wall.

=Gloves=—A pair of canvas gloves with a buckskin face, slightly greased is a great protection to the hands when pulling taffy or spreading out the different kinds of brittles. If they stick to your taffy, just dust them with a little cornstarch or flour.

=Double Boiler=—It is not absolutely necessary to have a double boiler, but it is a great convenience to have one holding about a pint or a little more, in which to melt the fondant or chocolate. You may substitute an ordinary bowl and a pan of hot water in which to set it, and obtain the same results.

=Dipping Wire=—This is used in dipping bon-bons and accompanies the book. (See article on “Bon-Bons.”)

=Plaster of Paris Moulds=—These moulds accompany the book and are used for making the centers for chocolates. (See article on “How to Mold in Cornstarch.”)

HOW TO USE THE THERMOMETER.

The first thing necessary for you to do is to test your thermometer. They are supposed to register exactly 212 degrees in boiling water, as this is the standard they are made by; but in =different altitudes, water boils at different degrees=, so they are very liable to vary somewhat. The different degrees given in this book, to which it is necessary to cook the candies to, are based on the supposition that your thermometer registers =exactly 212 in boiling water=; so that if it registers either =higher or lower= than that, you must allow for the =difference=.

Learn to read it accurately the first thing you do. Put some water in a kettle on the fire, and as soon it comes to a boil, set your thermometer down in it with the bottom of the thermometer as near the center of the pan as possible, and let it lean over against the side. Let it remain there for a few moments and then look and see what it registers, and if it is exactly 212, always cook every recipe in this book to just the degree called for. It does not matter how long you let it remain in the boiling water, it will never go any higher after it comes to a good boil. The reason is this, that the water will evaporate if you allow it to boil long enough, and consequently it can never get any hotter. In candy there are other substances which, as the water evaporates, keep getting hotter and retain the heat, and for that reason the mercury in the thermometer will naturally rise higher than 212.

If your thermometer registers lower than 212 degrees in boiling water, notice very carefully just how many degrees it is off, and simply deduct that many degrees from the number given, to which each recipe must be cooked.

If it registers higher than 212, add the number of degrees it registers over 212, to the amount given for each recipe. For example: Supposing your thermometer should register =209 in boiling water=. It would consequently be =three degrees too low=, and in cooking your candy, simply =deduct three degrees= from the number called for in the recipe. That is, if you are making fondant, which called for 240 degrees, only cook to 237, and it will be exactly the same as it would be, if you cooked it to 240 with a thermometer registering 212 in boiling water. In case your thermometer registers over 212, simply add the difference in the same manner as we have directed you to deduct, in case it was too low.

To avoid mistakes and spoiled candy, we would advise you to =mark each recipe as soon as you have tested your thermometer=.

In using it in candy, put it in the kettle just the same as directed for testing in boiling water, and it is always necessary to have enough candy in your kettle to come up over the bulb, or it will not register accurately. We mean by this, that if you cook only a small amount of candy, you must put it in a small kettle, so it will be deep enough to cover the bulb of the thermometer.

If the candy should cook up on the thermometer so it would cover the degree to which you intend it, just raise the thermometer a little, being very careful not to lift the bulb out of the syrup, wet your finger, pass it over the glass tube, and you will have no trouble in reading it.

In cooking fudge and such candies in which you use milk or cream, they will always boil up high on your thermometer at first, but by the time it is cooked enough to register the right degree, you will find it has boiled down enough, so the degree mark will be above the syrup, but you must wet your finger and wipe off the glass before you can read it.

When cooking candies that require stirring, occasionally slide the thermometer around the kettle and stir where it stood, to prevent scorching, being very careful not to lift the bulb out of the syrup.

While the thermometer is tested, and is subject to sudden changes of heat, it is always advisable to warm it slightly before putting it into the boiling syrup. The thermometer is too expensive to take any risks. There is no danger of its breaking when put into the boiling syrup, for that is the use for which it is intended.

Always remember when making candy, that as soon as the thermometer registers the right degree, lift it out of the syrup very quickly, and set it in a pan of water and get your batch off the fire as soon as possible. You must move quickly, or the candy is liable to go up one or two degrees and that is sufficient to spoil your batch.

Never put it in cold water after taking it out of the batch, but have a pan of warm water ready so you can set it in as soon as your batch is done. This will keep your stove from getting smeared and also protect your thermometer. The thermometer will never make a mistake if =you read it correctly=.

Few people are aware that =professional candy-makers use a thermometer=, and are under the impression, that all candies are tested in cold water, better known as the hand test. Until a few years ago, the candy thermometer was almost unknown and candy makers everywhere used the hand test; but when the thermometer was introduced for candy-making, they were quick to see the possibilities of such an invention and abandoned the water test, because by cooking with a thermometer, the candy was always the same, no batches too hard or too soft, as was the case with the old way.

We will give you the different hand test degrees as compared with the degrees on a thermometer:

=Hand Test.= =Thermometer.= Pearl 220° Small Thread 228° Large Thread 236° Blow 240° Feather 242° Small or Soft Ball 244° Large or Hard Ball 250° Small or Light Crack 254° Hard Crack 284°

MATERIAL USED FOR CANDY MAKING

=Sugar.= In all the recipes that call for sugar, use granulated sugar unless otherwise specified.

When cooking a small amount of sugar a small pan should be used or else the pan should be placed on an additional ring, so that the fire will only strike a part of the bottom of the pan. The heat should never strike the pan above the sugar, this causing it to bake on the sides of the pan and sometimes dissolving the pan.

Slowly cooked sugar makes tough and sticky candy, so that candy of any description should be cooked as rapidly as possible.

=Confectioner’s Sugar=, sometimes called XXXX, is especially ground for candy making purposes. XXX sugar is a coarser grade and is not as satisfactory as the XXXX sugar. Pulverized sugar cannot be used as a substitute and give satisfactory results, because it hardens.

=Water.= Always use cold water when making candy. The quantity of water used must be regulated according to the sugar.

=Milk.= Use fresh milk in preference to Pasteurized or sterilized milk, because it is not so liable to curdle.

=Glucose= is a very thick, transparent, tasteless liquid extracted from corn; it is usually of a yellow tinge. Very few people know how glucose is made and are under the impression that it is an injurious adulteration. Because glucose is used extensively in cheap candy, there is a certain amount of prejudice against it. By using glucose sparingly in certain candies it imparts a smoothness and also prevents any stirred candy from turning to sugar.

It may be purchased from any confectioner that makes his own candy. When purchasing it, it is necessary to take a bucket or jar, because it must be put into something that will be easy to get it out on account of its sticky quality.

In putting it into the kettle, first weigh the kettle with the paddle, take out the glucose with the paddle and when you think you have the required amount, weigh the glucose, kettle and paddle. If you do not have scales to weigh it, be =very careful= not to use too much glucose, because it will spoil some candies.

Glucose is easily handled in cold weather, because it gets very thick. Dip your hand in cold water, scoop out a small quantity of glucose, keeping your hand moving all the time; by doing this it will not stick.

One pint of glucose weighs one and a half pounds.

=Corn Syrup=, which is ninety per cent. glucose, may be purchased at almost any grocery and may be used as a substitute for glucose. Use a little more than the amount of glucose called for. Corn syrup is of a yellow color, consequently all of the candies in which it is used will be of a cream color. (See cream of tartar.)

=Acetic Acid.= The addition of acid in candy, “breaks the grain” of the sugar, and brings out the flavor.

It may be purchased at a drug store. Ask for No. 8 and five cents worth will last a long time because it is only used for making fondant and oriental creams.

=Cream of Tartar.= (Substitute for glucose.) As a rule a fourth of a teaspoonful of cream of tartar is used for every five pounds of sugar in making various kinds of candies, such as butterscotch, brittle, center cream; it may also be used for making a grainy fudge, which is the only exception when it is used in a stirred candy.

=Japanese Gelatine=, a vegetable gelatine, is used in making the various jellies. The ordinary gelatine cannot be used as a substitute.

=Nonparaf= must be used instead of paraffine in all candy made for sale, on account of the pure food laws. It is used in chewing taffy and caramels; it keeps them in shape and preserves their good qualities. It may be omitted, but by so doing a certain chewing quality of the candy is destroyed.

=Chocolate.= Only coating chocolate should be used for candy making because it is stronger in flavor and imparts a delicate taste such as no other kind does. It may be bought of any confectioner, who makes his own candy, in ten pound cakes.

=Flavors.= The best candies may be spoiled by using cheap flavorings, and we strongly advise you to buy the very best. Only a few drops are required for flavoring candies and, by buying a few at a time you will be able to have a large assortment in a short while.

=Color Pastes= may be used for coloring ice cream, cakes, icings and desserts and they add a dainty touch to an otherwise ordinary dish. Those that are used for candy making are adapted for all other needs, are pure and strong, so that a two ounce jar will last a long time. Colors seem to be a necessity when making bon-bons, and we offer you a variety. Leaf green, fruit red, golden yellow, damask rose, caramel, violet, chestnut, mandarin orange and imperial blue.

Color pastes which we sell are made from vegetable colorings and are guaranteed under the pure food laws.

=Almond Paste= is used as centers for bon-bons.

=Paper.= Waxed or oiled paper. You may use the ordinary waxed paper that is found in all stores for covering butter, etc. Waxed paper is used to line candy boxes and also for wrapping candies.

=Wafer Paper.= For dropping purposes, a heavier paper is required, such as is found in cracker boxes, cookies, etc. Save all these papers, iron them flat and they will answer the purpose and save you the expense of buying wafer paper.

=Rice Paper= is only used when making nougat, and can be bought at a confectioner’s.

Wax paper bags are a neat and sanitary way of putting up salted and fresh nuts.

HOW TO CRACK NUTS AND PREPARE TOPS FOR BON-BONS.