The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined
Part 6
TAKE a piece of loin of pork with the rind and part of the under bone cut off; then cut into chops, season them with pepper and salt, cover them with puff paste, bake the pie, and when it is to be served up put into it cullis, with the essence of two onions and a little mustard mixed with it.
N. B. I have directed puff paste to be used for meat pies, it having the best appearance when baked; but there is another mode which may be thought preferable; and which is, to mix together half a pound of sifted flour, six ounces of fresh butter, the yolks and whites of two eggs well beaten, and a little milk and salt; then knead it well.
_Eel Pie._
SKIN and clean the eels, cut them into pieces of two inches long, pass them with chopped parsley and eschallots, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and lemon juice, for five minutes; then put a little light forcemeat at the bottom of a deep dish, put the eels over it, cover with puff paste, bake it, and put into it some benshamelle or cullis.
_Mutton Pie._
TAKE off the bone from part of a loin of mutton, cut it into chops, and season with pepper and salt. Then put into a deep dish a layer of chops, and upon them some slices of peeled potatoes (and if approved, some thin slices of onions); put the remaining chops over, cover with puff paste, bake it, and add some cullis. Or, the chops may be passed with sweet herbs, &c. and when cold put into small or large raised crusts with the above vegetables, and when baked add some cullis.
_Sea Pie._
TAKE small pieces of salt beef and pickle pork, veal and mutton chops, a goose or a duck cut into pieces, onions and potatoes cut into thick slices, and season with a little salt and plenty of pepper. Make a paste with beef suet chopped fine, some flour and water; knead them well together, then roll out the paste, sheet a large bowl with it, put into it the above ingredients alternately; cover it with the paste, put a cloth over, and boil four hours. When it is to be served up take off the cloth, make a little hole in the top, and add a good consumé.
_Rissoles._
CUT into small slips breast of fowl, lean ham, pickle cucumbers, and anchovies; add to them consumé, cayenne pepper, breadcrumbs, and raw yolk of egg. Simmer them over a fire for five minutes, and be careful not to let the mixture burn. Then put the mixture on a plate, and when cold, cut into pieces, and dip them in yolk of raw egg, afterwards in fine breadcrumbs, and mould them with the hands into what form you please. Have ready boiling lard, fry them of a nice colour, drain them dry, and serve them up with fried parsley under.
_To fry Parsley._
TAKE fresh gathered parsley, pick, wash, and drain it very dry with a cloth. Have ready clean boiling lard, put the parsley into it, keep stirring with a skimmer, and when a little crisp, take it out, put it on a drainer, and strew salt over.
_Puffs with Chicken, &c._
CHOP breast of fowl, lean ham, and half an anchovie; then add a small quantity of parsley, lemon peel, and eschallots, cut very fine, with a little cayenne and pounded mace. Put them into a stewpan with a ragout spoonful of benshamelle, set them over a fire for five minutes; then put the mixture on a plate, and when cold roll out puff paste thin, cut it into square pieces, put some of the mixture on them, fold the paste, run a jagger iron round to make them in form of a puff, fry them in boiling lard, and serve them up with fried parsley under.
_Wings and Legs of Fowls with Colours._
CUT the legs from a good-sized fowl and the wings as large as possible, leaving no breast bone; then fill the cavities with light forcemeat, sew them up neat, blanch them, drain them dry, wash the tops with raw white of egg, and lay a small quantity of forcemeat on it, and work a sprig with slips of lean ham and white and yellow omlets of eggs. Then put them into a stewpan with a little stock, cover the pan close, and stew them gently till done and the liquor nearly reduced. When they are to be served up, put under a cullis boiled almost to a glaize.
N. B. They may be done in the same manner and served up cold; or put round them savory jelly, instead of cullis, for an ornamental supper.
_Wings and Legs larded and glaized._
CUT the wings and legs and force them as before directed, then lard very neat and blanch them, and stew them with a little stock. When they are to be served up, glaize the larding, and put under a strong cullis, or sorrel sauce, or benshamelle.
N. B. They may be done likewise in the above manner, and served up cold for a ball supper.
_Fowl a la Menehout._
TAKE the bones out of the legs and wings, and draw them in; then split the fowl from the top to the bottom of the back, skewer it down close, pass it with chopped parsley, thyme, and eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When three parts done put it on a dish, and when cold wash it with yolk of egg with a paste brush, strew breadcrumbs over, and broil gently till done and of a light brown colour. Serve it up with a cullis sauce under, with ketchup and lemon-pickle mixed in it.
_Pulled Chicken (or Turkey)._
BOIL a fowl till three parts done, and let it stand till cold; then take off the skin, cut the white meat into slips, put them into a stewpan, add a little cream, a very small quantity of grated lemon-peel and pounded mace, cayenne, salt, one eschallot chopped, a little lemon juice, and a spoonful of consumé; thicken with a little flour and water, simmer it over a fire ten minutes, during which time score the legs and rump, season them with pepper and salt, broil them of a good colour, and serve them up over the pulled chicken.
_Another Way._
CUT the fowl as above, and add to it some benshamelle; or, instead of thickening with flour and water as the above, add, five minutes before it is to be served up, a leason of two eggs.
_Pullet a la Memorancy._
BONE it, leaving the legs and wings on; then season the inside with pepper, salt, and beaten spice. Put a light forcemeat into it, sew it up, truss it as for roasting, set it with hot water, lard it neat, and roast it gently with a veal caul over. When it is done, take off the caul, glaize the larding, and serve it up with white ragooed sweetbreads round it, or with strong cullis or plain benshamelle.
_Chickens with Lemon Sauce._
BOIL two chickens as white as possible, or braise them with bards of bacon over them; and when they are done wipe them dry and pour the sauce over.
_To make Lemon Sauce._
PARE two lemons and cut them into very small pieces in the form of dice; then take the liver and scalded parsley chopped, put them into a stewpan, add some boiling benshamelle and a little melted butter, and simmer over a fire for two minutes.
_Fricassee of Chickens or Rabbits (white)._
CUT them into pieces and blanch and drain them dry; then put them into a stewpan with a little veal stock, a blade of mace, and a middling-sized whole onion. Stew them gently till three parts done; then add slices of blanched throat sweetbreads, stewed white button mushrooms, egg balls, and pieces of artichoke bottoms. When they are all nearly stewed, season with salt and a little lemon juice, add a leason of three eggs, simmer it over a fire for five minutes, taking care not to let it curdle, and serve it up very hot, with the mace and onion taken out.
N. B. Instead of a leason, the stock it is stewed in may be almost reduced, and a benshamelle added with the sweetbreads, mushrooms, &c.
_Chickens or Turkies with Celery._
BOIL or braise them, and when they are to be served up wipe them dry, and pour over them white celery sauce. Or they may be served with brown celery sauce under them, and the breast of the poultry glaized. [See _Celery Sauce, white and brown_.]
_Turkies, Pullets, or Chickens, with Oyster Sauce._
BOIL them, wipe them dry, and when they are to be served up pour over them white oyster sauce.
_To make white Oyster Sauce._
BLANCH large oysters till half done, and strain and preserve the liquor; then beard and wash them, and put the liquor, free from sediment, into a stewpan. Add to it two ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of good cream, a piece of lemon peel, and a blade of mace; put it over a fire, and when it nearly boils add mixed flour and water to thicken it properly. Season to the palate with lemon juice, salt, and a little cayenne pepper if approved; then strain it through a fine hair sieve to the oysters, and boil them gently five minutes.
N. B. In the same manner may be done stewed oysters for dishes, only serve them up with sippets of bread round.
_Chickens with Peas._
TRUSS them as for boiling, blanch them five minutes, and wash them clean; then braise them till tender with a little veal stock and bards of fat bacon or with white paper over them. When they are to be served up wipe them dry, glaize the tops lightly, and put pea sauce under.
_Another way to stew Chickens with Peas._
CUT the chickens into pieces, blanch and drain them dry, and put them into a stewpan with a little veal stock; then stew them till tender and the liquor almost reduced. When they are to be served up, put them on a dish, and the peas sauce over.
_Fricassee of Chickens or Rabbits (brown)._
CUT the chickens into pieces, and fry them in a little lard till of a light brown colour; then drain them with a cloth very dry; after which put them into a stewpan, add button mushrooms stewed, pieces of artichoke bottoms, blanched truffles, morells, egg balls, and some good-seasoned cullis. Set them over a moderate fire, stew them gently till done, and serve up with fried oysters round them.
_To fry Oysters for a Dish._
OPEN twenty-four large oysters, blanch them with their own liquor, and when three parts done strain them, and preserve the liquor; then wash and let them drain. In the meanwhile make a batter with four table spoonfuls of flour, two eggs, a little pepper and salt, and their liquor. Beat it well with a wooden spoon or a whisk for five minutes. Put the oysters into the batter, mix them lightly, and have ready boiling lard. Take the oysters out singly with a fork, put them into the lard, and fry them of a nice brown colour. Then put them on a drainer, strew over a small quantity of salt, and serve them up. If they are for a dish put fried parsley under them, or stewed spinach.
_Directions for Poultry, &c. plain boiled._
LET it be observed that turkies, chickens, and meats, intended to be plain boiled, should be soaked in cold water, and put afterwards into plenty of boiling pump water, kept skimmed and preserved as white as possible. The time they will take dressing depends on a little practice, as in roasting. Be particular in trimming the meats neat, and in trussing the poultry. The carving, likewise, should be carefully attended to, which is frequently expressed by the phrase of _cutting into pieces_.
_Jugged Hare._
CASE the hare, cut off the shoulders and legs, and the back into three pieces. Daub them well with fat bacon, and put them into a stewpot with the trimmings. Add to them allspice, mace, whole pepper, a little of each; a small clove of garlick, three onions, two bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and savory, tied together in a small bunch; a quart of veal stock, three gills of red port; and simmer them over a fire till three parts done. Then take out the shoulders, legs, and back; put them into another stewpan, strain the liquor to them, and add some passed flour and butter to thicken it a little. Let it stew till tender, skim it free from fat, season with cayenne, salt, and lemon juice, and serve it up in a deep dish.
_Glaized Hare._
CASE the hare, bone it as whole as possible, wash it, and fill the inside with light forcemeat; then sew it up, and truss it as for roasting. Lard the back with bacon, the same as a fricando veal; cover it with a veal caul, and roast it very gently. When it is to be served up, take off the caul, glaize the larding, and put strong cullis, with a gill of red port boiled with it, under the hare.
_Duck aux Naves._
BONE a tame duck as whole as possible, and season the inside with beaten spices, pepper, and salt; then draw in the legs and wings, and fill the inside with light forcemeat. Sew it up, braise it in a pint of veal stock, cover it with white paper and the cover of the stewpan. Let it stew gently till tender, and the liquor almost reduced. When it is to be served up glaize the breast, and pour the sauce round it, which is to be made with turnips cut into shapes as for haricot; afterwards to be put into a stewpan and sweated with a bit of fresh butter till three parts done; then add a good cullis and the essence in which the duck was braised. When it boils, skim free from fat, season to the palate, and stew the turnips till done.
_A Duck with Cucumbers._
THE duck to be boned, braised, and served up in the same manner as the above, but instead of turnips put cucumber sauce, or peas, as for veal tendrons.
_A Duck a la Benshamelle._
BONE, braise, and glaize the duck as mentioned in the preceding article, and when it is to be served up put a sauce round it made with heads of sprue grass boiled in a little veal stock, and when tender rub them through a tamis. Add the pulp to a small quantity of benshamelle, boil them together for five minutes, and let the sauce be very white and strong.
_Hashed Mutton for a Dish._
TAKE mutton ready dressed, cut it into thin slices, put them into a stewpan with slices of pickle cucumbers, or walnuts, or onions; then make a sauce with chopped eschallots or onions passed with a bit of fresh butter over a slow fire till three parts done; after which add a pint of veal stock, or gravy, and a little ketchup. Boil it ten minutes, season to the palate with cayenne pepper and salt; then strain it to the mutton, let it stew gently till thoroughly hot, and add a small quantity of liquid of colour.
N. B. In the same manner may be done beef; and when it is to be served up put the bones (which are to be seasoned with pepper and salt, and grilled) over the hash.
_Hashed Venison._
TAKE the part least done of ready-dressed venison, cut it in slices, and put them into a stewpan; then pass a bit of fresh butter and flour and chopped eschallots over a slow fire for ten minutes, and add to them half a pint of red port, a pint and a half of veal stock, its own gravy, if any, a little piece of lemon peel, cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice. Season to the palate, boil all together a quarter of an hour, and strain it to the venison. Let it simmer gently till thoroughly hot.
N. B. The venison should not be put into the liquor above ten minutes before it is to be served up, by reason of the fat dissolving too much.
_Hashed Fowls._
CUT into pieces (very neat) ready-dressed fowls, turkies, or rabbits, and put them into a stewpan; then make a thickening with a bit of fresh butter, flour, and chopped eschallots or onions mixed over a slow fire. Discharge it with veal stock, add a little lemon pickle and ketchup, season to the palate, put a small quantity of liquid of colour, boil for ten minutes, strain to the poultry, and let it stew gently. When served up, there may be put a few pieces of the fowl grilled round it.
N. B. Instead of the thickening and veal stock, may be added cullis with lemon pickle and ketchup.
_Hashed Hare, Wild Fowl, Pheasants, or Partridges._
CUT the poultry into neat pieces, put them into a stewpan, and add a liquor made in the same manner as for venison; or put cullis and red port with their own gravy.
_Broiled Beef Steaks._
TAKE a small fat rump of beef, and cut off the fillet and the first two or three steaks; then cut the remainder into steaks also, and cut the skin from the fat. Beat them with a chopper, and season with pepper and salt just before they are to be put on the gridiron, which should be well cleaned, and the steaks frequently turned. When they are done according to desire, serve them up on a hot dish with a little gravy under, some scraped horseradish, chopped eschallots, and pickles, on small plates, and oyster sauce in a sauce boat, or with slices of onions dipped in batter and fried.
N. B. The fillet and outside steaks of the rump may be made into a pudding, in order to have prime steaks for broiling.
_Beef Steak Pudding._
TAKE flour, chopped suet, some milk, a little salt, and one egg, and mix them well together. Roll out the paste of half an inch thick, and sheet a bason or a bowl with it. Then trim the skin from the meat, beat the steaks well with a chopper, cut them into middling-sized pieces, season with pepper and salt, put them into the bason with blanched oysters and slices of potatoes alternately (or slices of onions, if approved). Cover the top with paste, and tie a cloth over the bason. Boil the pudding (if of a middling size) two hours; and when it is to be served up put into it a little cullis and ketchup.
_Oyster Sauce for Beef Steaks._
BLANCH a pint of oysters, and preserve their liquor; then wash and beard them, and put their liquor into a stewpan with india soy and ketchup, a small quantity of each, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Set them over a fire, and when nearly boiling thicken with flour and water; season to the palate with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice; strain it to the oysters, and stew them gently five minutes.
_To dress Mutton, Lamb, or Pork Chops in a plain Manner._
CUT a loin of mutton, lamb, or pork, into chops of a middling thickness; beat them with a chopper, trim off a sufficient quantity of the bone and fat; then season with pepper and salt, broil them over a clear moderate fire, and serve them up very hot with gravy.
N. B. Lamb chops may have stewed spinach or fried parsley underneath.
_To dress Veal Cutlets._
BEAT the cutlets with a chopper, and cut them into middling-sized pieces; then strew on each side of them a mixture of breadcrumbs, chopped parsley and thyme, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and broil them over a clear fire till done and of a nice colour. Serve them up with cullis sauce and ketchup in it, or stewed mushrooms and cullis. Rashers of broiled bacon and fried oysters (a few of each if approved) may be put round the cutlets or chops, which may be done in the same manner.
_Minced Veal for a Dish._
CUT into small pieces ready dressed veal, put it into a stewpan, add to it a very small quantity of grated lemon peel and a little benshamelle; season to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt; stew the veal gently ten minutes, and serve it up with sippets of bread round it either fried or plain.
_Minced Veal another way._
ADD to the veal a little stock, one eschallot chopped fine, some grated nutmeg and grated lemon peel, a very small quantity of each. Season with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt. Let it stew ten minutes, and just before it is to be served up add a leason of two eggs and cream, simmer them together five minutes, and be careful it does not burn nor curdle. Sippets of bread, likewise, to be placed round.
_Partridges or Pheasants au Choux._
BONE the birds, put into them some light forcemeat well-seasoned; sew them up, blanch and wipe them dry, and braise them in a pint of stock till tender. After which cut two savoys into quarters and boil them till a fourth part done; then squeeze them and tie round with twine, put them into a stewpan, add a pint of stock, and boil them gently till done. Then take the savoys out, cut off the strings, put the birds into the center of a dish, the savoys round them, and set the dish in an oven or in a warm place covered over. Then mix the two liquors together, season to the palate with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. Make it of a proper thickness with flour and water, boil it till three parts reduced, add a little colour and strain it. When the birds are to be served up glaize their breasts lightly, and put the sauce over the savoys.
_Partridges or Pheasants with Truffles._
BONE the birds, and force and braise them in a small quantity of stock. When they are to be served up glaize the breasts lightly, and put green truffle sauce round them, with the essence of the birds mixed in it.
_Turkey with Truffles._
TRUSS the turkey as for boiling, put some light forcemeat with truffles pounded with it into the cavity near the breast, and secure it from falling out. Then put slices of lemon, some salt, and bards of fat bacon on the breast, and white paper over it bound on with packthread, and roast gently (if a good-sized turkey) one hour and a half. When it is to be served up, take off the paper, glaize the breast, and put the truffle sauce round the turkey.
N. B. In the same manner may be done pullets or chickens.
_Truffle Sauce for Turkies, &c._
PUT green truffles into water, clean them well with a hard brush, cut the outside paring thinly off, trim them into shapes or round, put the trimmings into a marble mortar, pound them, and add to the forcemeat which is to be put into the cavity near the breast of the turkey. Then put the truffles into a stewpan with a pint of beef stock, stew them gently, and when the liquor is almost reduced add some cullis well-seasoned.
_Turkey with Chesnuts._
TRUSS the turkey as for boiling, stuff it with light forcemeat and Spanish chesnuts whole, and paper and roast it as a turkey with truffles. When it is to be served up, glaize the breast and put chesnut sauce round it, made with good cullis and chesnuts, which should be boiled till half done, and then roasted in a frying pan till wholly done; after which let them be peeled and put into the cullis five minutes before the turkey is served up.
_Turkey with Ragout._
STUFF it in the plain way, boil it, and when it is to be served up put over the following sauce:--Take slices of throat sweetbreads blanched, white button mushrooms stewed, artichoke bottoms boiled till half done and cut in halves, cocks combs boiled till done, a few egg balls scalded; add a good benshamelle, and stew them gently for ten minutes. Or, instead of benshamelle, there may be put to the above ingredients half a pint of veal stock, and let them all be boiled ten minutes; then add a leason of three eggs and cream, simmer them together five minutes more, and season with salt, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper.
_Rabbits with Onions._
BOIL them as white as possible, and when they are to be served up, wipe them dry and put over onion sauce, made thus:--Take mild onions peeled, and boiled till three parts done; then squeeze and chop them but not too small; add a bit of fresh butter, a little salt and flour, a sufficient quantity of cream to mix them, and a little white ground pepper, if approved. Let the sauce be of a good thickness, and simmered over a slow fire for ten minutes.
_Glaized Sweetbreads._
LARD very neat two heart sweetbreads, then blanch and braise or roast them; and when they are to be served up, glaize the top part, and put stewed endive under them.
_Matelote of Rabbits._
CUT them into pieces and blanch and wash them; then put them into a stewpan with a gill of water, cover close and preserve them as white as possible. When they are nearly done and the liquor almost reduced, which should not be of any colour, add half a pint of good benshamelle, a few whole boiled cocks combs, pickle cucumbers, ham, tongue, omlets of eggs (the same as for garnishing) cut into small squares, and a few stewed button mushrooms. Stew them together for ten minutes, and serve the matelote up directly.
_Sweetbreads en Erison._
TO be done in the same manner as neck of veal, which see.
_Stewed Giblets plain._