Part 5

PARE four turnips, sweat them with a little water till they are done and the liquor reduced, then rub them through a tamis sieve. Add to them a small quantity of benshamelle, and then cut some more turnips in shapes as for a haricot. Sweat them in the like manner, and add the benshamelle to them.

_Lamb Cutlets with Tendrons another way._

THE tendrons may be served in the center of the dish, with the cutlets larded, braised, and glaized, to go round them; and the sauce made in the same manner, but instead of benshamelle add cullis.

_Shoulder of Lamb glaized._

BONE a shoulder of house lamb, then season it with pepper, salt, mushroom powder, and beaten spice; fill the cavity with some light forcemeat; sew it up, and make it in the form of a leg of lamb; after which blanch it, and braise in a little stock and bards of fat bacon. When it is done wipe it dry, glaize it, and serve it up with sorrel sauce under; or a strong cullis sauce with a little tarragon of vinegar in it.

_Shoulder of Lamb en Epigram._

ROAST a shoulder of lamb till three parts done, and let it stand till cold; then take the blade-bone out with the meat, leaving only the skin whole in the form of a fan. Cut the meat into slips, add to it parsley, thyme, eschallots, and mushrooms, chopped fine, some good-seasoned cullis, and a little lemon pickle. Let it stew gently for a quarter of an hour; and let the fan of the shoulder and the blade bone be broiled, and served up over the stew.

_Shoulder of Lamb grilled._

ROAST it till three parts done, then score it with chequers, season with pepper and salt, and grill it gently till done. Let it be of a light brown colour, and serve it up with a sauce over it made with cullis, ketchup, lemon juice, and a bit of fresh butter.

_Hind Quarter of Lamb marinated._

BONE the leg, fill the cavity with a light forcemeat well-seasoned, sew it up and lard the top part of the quarter with slips of fat bacon. When done, take a quart of veal stock, half a gill of vinegar, whole black pepper, some salt, two bay leaves, three onions cut in pieces, a little garlick, and half a pint of rhenish wine. Boil all the ingredients together a quarter of an hour, put the lamb into a deep dish, and strain the liquor to it. Let it lay five or six hours, turn it several times, then roast the lamb gently with a veal caul over it. When it is nearly done, let it colour a little and glaize the top. Serve it up with a sauce under it, made with the above liquor boiled down almost to a glaize, with some cullis added.

N. B. In the same manner may be done a shoulder or leg of lamb.

_Hind Quarter of Lamb with Spinach._

BOIL the leg, preserve it as white as possible, serve it up with spinach under, and the steaks round it very hot. The loin to be cut into chops, and seasoned with pepper and salt; then fried or broiled. Pick and boil the spinach till nearly done; then strain and squeeze it dry, chop it, and add a little piece of fresh butter, pepper, and salt, a little cullis or cream, and let it stew for five minutes.

N. B. The spinach may be served up as a dish with fried bread round it.

_Leg of Lamb with Oysters._

BONE the leg, fill the cavity with light forcemeat, and some blanched and bearded oysters pounded with it. Sew it up, put over it slices of lemon, salt, bards of fat bacon, and paper. Roast it gently, and when it is to be served up, glaize it, and put a sauce round it made with oysters blanched and bearded, stewed mushrooms, boiled button onions, some cullis, and the oyster liquor they were blanched in. Season to the palate with cayenne and lemon juice.

_Currie._

CUT two young chickens into pieces, and blanch and drain them dry; then put them into a stewpan with two table spoonfuls of currie powder and a gill of veal stock, and stew them gently till half done. Then cut into slices three middling-sized onions, and put them into a stewpan with a table spoonful of currie powder, a quart of veal stock, two ounces of jordan almonds blanched and pounded fine, and boil till the onions are tender; then rub it through a tamis sieve to the chicken, and season to the palate with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon or tamarind juice. Let the chickens stew till three parts done, then pour the liquor into another stewpan, and add three ounces of fresh butter, a very little flour and water, and reduce it to three gills. Strain it through a tamis sieve to the chickens, and let them simmer till tender.

N. B. Rabbits may be done in the same manner.

_Plain Rice to be eaten with Currie._

PICK one pound of rice, and wash it very clean; then have ready some boiling water and put the rice in. Let it simmer till three parts done, and strain and wash it in several waters till free from slime. Drain it in a large hair sieve, and when dry put it into a stewpan with some paper and the cover over it. Set it in a moderate oven for one hour and a half, or longer, if there be a greater quantity.

_Currie of Lobster._

BOIL lobsters till three parts done, and pick and cut the claws and tails into good-sized pieces; then add currie powder, and proceed with the same directions as with the chickens, only pound the body of the lobsters and spawn, if any, and add them to the almonds and other ingredients.

_Currie of Veal._

CUT a piece of breast of veal into tendrons, and fry them in a little lard till of a light colour; then drain them dry, add currie powder, and proceed with the same directions as for chicken currie.

_Currie of Mutton._

TAKE three pounds of the best end of a loin of mutton, cut off the bone and some of the fat; then cut the meat into small square pieces, fry them, and proceed with the same directions as for veal.

_Pig's Head Currie._

TAKE a young porker's head, cleave it in half, blanch and wash it, then cut it into small thick pieces, fry them, and dress in the same manner as veal and mutton; only omit the fresh butter, as there will be a sufficient quantity of fat.

_Directions for roasting._

OBSERVE that in roasting it requires a good quick fire, but not too strong, and the meats should be well-jointed, trimmed neat, and covered with paper to preserve it from being too high a colour. Beef and mutton should not be done too much; veal, pork, and lamb, should be done well; and some little time before it is to be served up, take the paper off, sprinkle the meat with salt, and when of a proper colour, froth it with butter and flour. Large poultry to be papered and done in the same manner; but small poultry, such as chickens, woodcocks, rabbits, wild fowls, &c. will not require papering. The time the several articles will take roasting depends upon a little practice, as the weather and the different strengths of fires make a material alteration. I have given directions for some particular roasts which require a preparation; as for others which are served with sauces, they may be found under their respective heads: and for the trimmings of meat, &c. I have wrote a receipt to make into soup, or they may be put into the beef stock pot.

_Soup for a Family._

CUT the particles of meat from the trimmings of different joints, as beef, mutton, veal, pork, &c. and when done put the bones into a pot, cover with water, and boil them till the goodness is extracted. Then strain the liquor, wash the trimmings of the vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, onions, leeks, celery, and a little cabbage. Cut all small, put them into a pot with the above liquor and some split peas; boil till the peas are tender, add a little dry mint, and rub it through a tamis cloth or sieve. Then season the meat with pepper and salt, sweated down till three parts tender, and add the pulp. Boil all together till the meat is done, skim it and serve it up with fried bread in the form of dice.

_To prepare a Haunch of Venison, or Mutton, for roasting._

TAKE great care the venison is well hung and good. Wipe it, take the skin from the top part, and put butter and plenty of salt over it; then put paste confined on with four or five sheets of paper braced with packthread. Roast it gently, and ten minutes before it is done, take off the paper, let it colour gradually, and froth it with flour and butter. Serve up with the venison warm currant jelly in a boat, and some good gravy with a little red port in it in another sauce boat.

_To roast Woodcocks or Snipes._

TAKE out the trail, then roast the birds, and ten minutes before they are done bake a toast, put the trail into a stewpan, with a little cullis and fresh butter, and boil them together. When the woodcocks are to be served up put the sauce over the toast, and the woodcocks upon it.

N. B. If the woodcocks are thin roast them with a bard of bacon over.

_To roast Larks._

TAKE the entrails out of the birds, wash and wipe them dry, put them upon a lark spit, with small thin slices of fat bacon and a piece of a vine or green sage leaf between each, if approved; and while roasting, put over them crumbs of bread, or roast them plain. When they are done, serve them up with fried breadcrumbs round them, and melted butter in a sauce boat.

_To fry Breadcrumbs._

RUB crumbs of bread through a hair sieve, have ready a clean frying pan, put them into it with a piece of fresh butter, set them over a moderate fire, keep stirring with a wooden spoon till they are of a light brown colour, and put them upon a plate.

_Turkeys._

TO be roasted with a stuffing in the breast, and served with bread sauce in a boat.

_Rabbits._

TO be roasted either plain, or a stuffing, with the liver chopped in it, put into the belly, and served up with parsley and butter in a boat.

_Hares._

TO be dressed in the same manner as rabbits, with stuffing; but served up with cullis and fresh butter put over, and warm currant jelly in a sauce boat.

_Hare roasted another way._

STUFF as above, and while roasting drudge it with flour, baste it with milk, and so alternately till a quarter of an hour before the hare is done; then baste it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter put into the dripping pan. Serve it up with a cullis sauce and butter put over, and currant jelly in a sauce boat.

N. B. Baste it repeatedly, as there must be a good crust over. It will require three pints of warm milk for that purpose.

_Pigeons._

MAY be roasted with a little stuffing in them, or plain; and served up with parsley and butter.

_Quails, or Ruffs and Rees._

TO be roasted with bards of bacon and vine leaves over them, with sauce in a boat made with cullis and red port in it.

_Guinea Fowls, Pea Fowls, Pullets, Chickens, and Turkey Poults._

TO be roasted either larded or plain, and served up with gravy under, and bread and egg sauces in separate boats.

_Wild Fowl._

TO be roasted plain, not done too much, and served up with onion sauce in a boat; as also a small quantity of gravy and red port boiled together.

_Partridges and Pheasants._

TO be roasted plain, and served up with poivrade sauce hot, and bread sauce in boats.

_Green Geese and Ducklings._

TO be roasted with pepper and salt put in the bellies, and served with green sauce in a boat.

_Other Geese and tame Ducks._

TO be roasted with onion and sage chopped fine, seasoned with pepper and salt put into the inside, and served up with apple sauce in a boat.

_To roast a Pig._

MAKE a stuffing with chopped sage, two eschallots, two eggs, breadcrumbs, and fresh butter, and season with pepper and salt; put it into the belly, sew it up, spit it, and rub it over with a paste brush dipped in sweet oil. Roast it gently, and when done cut off the head; then cut the body and the head in halves, lay them on a dish, put the stuffing with the brains into a stewpan, add to them some good gravy, make it boil, and serve up the pig with the sauce under it.

_To roast Sweetbreads._

BLANCH heart sweetbreads till half done, then wash and wipe them dry, cut off some of the pipe, put yolk of eggs on the tops with a paste brush, and strew fine breadcrumbs over. Roast them gently till done and of a nice colour, serve them up with a toast under and melted butter poured over, together with some cullis sauce round.

_To roast Ribs of Beef._

BONE the beef, roll it round like a fillet of veal, put a good stuffing in the center, bind it tight, roast it gently, and serve it up with brown oyster sauce round it.

_Fillet of Veal._

TO be done in the same manner as the above, with white oyster or cullis sauce round.

_Observations on Meat and Poultry._

MEATS to be preferred when of a good fatness and the lean appears juicy, but not particularly streaked with fat, as it then frequently happens to eat hard. When the season will permit let it hang for a week, and not more, as I have found that period bring it to its best state. Poultry, likewise, should be chosen tolerably fat and of a soft grain. Let them hang three or four days, which will add to their better eating; except woodcocks, snipes, larks, or pigs, which should be dressed fresh. Be particular that the poultry are trussed very neat.

_Stuffing for Turkies, Hares, Veal, &c._

CHOP very fine beef suet, parsley, thyme, eschallots, a very small quantity of marjoram, savory, basil, and lemon peel, with grated nutmeg, two eggs (or milk), pepper, salt, and an anchovie chopped (if approved). Mix all well together.

_Gravy for Roast Meat, Steaks, and Poultry._

CUT slices of chuck beef, veal, and lean ham; pare onions, turnips, a carrot, and cut them with celery; then add a bunch of parsley and thyme, a few whole pepper, and a little mace. Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, set them over a moderate fire, sweat down till the liquor becomes of a light brown colour, and be careful not to let it burn. Discharge it with water or beef stock, season to the palate with salt, and, if required, add a little liquid of colour. Let it simmer till the meat is perfectly done, skim it free from fat, and strain it through a tamis cloth.

_Peloe of Rice._

WASH, pick, and dress, in the same manner as the directions for plain rice, observing only, that, before it is to be set in the oven, add a little pounded mace with the rice; and put into a stewpan a chicken half boiled and a piece of pickle pork three parts boiled, and cover with the rice. When it is to be served up, put the fowl and pork at the bottom of the dish, the rice over, and garnish with boiled or fried button onions and halves of hard eggs, which should be hot.

_Peloe of Rice another way._

WASH and pick two pounds of rice, boil it in plenty of water till half done, with a dozen of whole cardamum seeds; then drain it, pick out the seeds, put the rice into a stewpan, with three quarters of a pound of fresh butter and some pounded mace, and salt to the palate. Take a loin of house lamb or some fresh pork cut into small pieces; put them into a frying-pan, add cinnamon, cloves, cummin and cardamum seeds, a small quantity of each pounded and sifted, with a bit of butter and some cayenne pepper, and fry the meat till half done. Then take two bay leaves, four good-sized onions sliced, and add to them a pint and a half of veal stock. Boil them till tender and rub them through a tamis cloth or sieve; then boil the liquor over a fire till it is reduced to half a pint, add it to the fried meat and spices, together with some peeled button onions boiled. Then put some of the rice at the bottom of another stewpan, then a layer of meat and onions on the rice, and so on alternately till the whole is put in. Cover the pan close, set it in a moderately heated oven for two hours and a half, and when it is to be served up turn the rice out carefully on a dish.

_Timbol of Rice._

PICK, wash, and parboil the rice; then strain it, put it into a stewpan with a little oiled butter and yolk of egg. Simmer it gently till tender; then fill an oval tin mould with the rice, press it down close, take the shape out of the mould, wash it lightly with a paste brush with yolk of egg, and set it in a quick oven. When it is a good colour cut a square piece out of the top, scoop out the inside, and fill the cavity with fricassee of chickens, or any thing else you please.

_Petit Patties of Chicken and Ham._

SHEET the pans with puff paste, and put a bit of crumb of bread the bigness of a dice in each; then cover them with more paste, trim round the pan, wash the tops of the paste with egg, and bake the patties of a light colour. When they are to be served up take out the bread, have ready the white meat of dressed fowl, lean ham, an eschallot chopped fine, a spoonful of consumé of veal, a little cream, flour, salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, a small quantity of each. Mix all the ingredients together over a fire, boil them for five minutes, fill the patties with it, and serve them up very hot.

_Patties of Lobsters or Oysters._

BAKE patties as before directed, fill them with lobsters or oysters chopped, add to them a little strong consumé of veal, a small quantity of flour, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, a bit of lemon peel, an eschallot chopped fine, an anchovie rubbed through a sieve, and mixed over a fire for five minutes.

N. B. The lobsters or oysters are to be half boiled before they are chopped.

_Forcemeat Patties._

SHEET the pans as for chicken patties, but instead of bits of bread fill them with a light forcemeat well-seasoned. Cover and bake them, and serve them up with a little cullis added to the forcemeat.

_Pulpton of Chicken, Rabbits, &c._

TAKE veal suet or beef marrow, chop it, put it into a stewpan over a fire till melted, and when lukewarm mix it to some flour with a little water into a paste. Knead it well, and rub fresh butter round the inside of a mould of any shape, and strew vermicelli upon the butter. Then sheet the mould over the vermicelli with the paste rolled of the thickness of half an inch, and within the paste put a layer of chicken, slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, truffles, and morells; after which put a little light forcemeat round with a paste over, close it well, egg, and bake it gently. When to be served up, turn it out of the mould, make a little hole in the top, and put into it a good cullis.

N. B. Cut the chicken in pieces and blanch them; the sweetbreads, truffles, and morels to be blanched, and afterwards season with pepper and salt.

_Fishmeagre Pie._

BONE and cut into pieces a male carp; make it into a forcemeat with some of the roe, parsley, thyme, eschallots chopped very fine, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, pepper, salt, a little beaten spice, half a pint of cream, four eggs, and crumb of french bread. Afterwards take pieces of eel, salmon, and skate, pass them with sweet herbs, pepper, salt, lemon juice, and a bit of butter. When they are cold, put some of the forcemeat at the bottom of a deep dish, and mix with the fish some stewed mushrooms, button onions, truffles and morells blanched, and the roe cut into pieces, and put them into the dish with more forcemeat round the top; then cover with puff paste, ornament with leaves of paste, egg it, and bake it. When it is to be served up cut a small hole in the center of the top, and add a good cullis.

_Raised Ham Pie, with Directions for making a raised Crust._

TAKE water boiling hot, put a piece of fresh butter into it, and mix it with flour into a paste, and as it gets cold knead it several times, taking care it is of a good consistence but not too stiff, and then raise it into any shape you please. Have ready part of a ham boiled till half done, trim it to the shape of the crust, which must be big enough to put some light forcemeat at the bottom and round the ham when in the pie. Cover it with the same kind of paste, pinch round the top, and egg and ornament it. Just before it is set in the oven add half a pint of madeira wine, bake it gently for four hours, and when it is to be served up add some good cullis, but be careful it is not too salt.

_Raised Chicken Pie._

CUT chicken into pieces, and put them into a stewpan, either blanched or not, with a bit of fresh butter, lemon juice, pepper and salt, parsley, thyme, eschallots chopped very fine, and a little pounded mace. When the chicken are half done put them on a dish, and when cold raise the crust, put light forcemeat at the bottom, the chicken upon it, and more forcemeat round the top. Cover, bake gently, and when served up, cut off the lid, and add a ragout of sweetbreads, cocks combs, &c. &c.

N. B. Rabbits and veal may be done in the same manner; as also pigeons, but they are to be put into the crust whole.

_Flat Chicken Pie (or Tourte)._

CUT chicken into pieces, blanch them, and season with pepper and salt; then put a light forcemeat at the bottom of a deep dish, and upon it some of the chicken, some slices of throat sweetbreads seasoned, some stewed mushrooms, truffles and morells, and upon them the remainder of the chicken. Cover it with a puff paste, then egg and ornament the top with leaves of paste of the same kind, bake it of a nice colour, and when it is to be served up put into it a good cullis.

N. B. The chicken may be passed with sweet herbs, &c. and when cold put into the dish as above. Rabbits also may be done in the same manner.

_Pigeon Pie._

WASH the pigeons in cold water and wipe them dry; then put into a deep dish a rump steak cut into pieces, beat with a chopper, and seasoned with pepper and salt, and upon it the pigeons with the liver, &c. seasoned. Add also some yolk of hard eggs, cover it with puff paste, egg and ornament it with small leaves, bake it, and add some cullis.

_Raised Turkey Pie with a Tongue._

BONE a turkey, and have ready a boiled pickled tongue; pare the principal part, put it into the center of the turkey with some light forcemeat well-seasoned, and some slices of throat sweetbreads. Sew it up, and put it into boiling water for ten minutes. Then make a crust with raised paste big enough to receive the turkey, which, when cold, put in with bards of fat bacon upon it and forcemeat at the bottom of the crust; then cover and ornament it as a raised chicken pie, and bake it. When it is to be served up, take off the lid and the bards of bacon, glaize the breast lightly, and add a cullis or green truffle sauce.

N. B. Pullets, chickens, partridges, and pheasants, may be done in the same manner; but instead of the tongue put in whole green truffles pared, and some truffles pounded with the forcemeat, and when served up, add a good cullis. Or, instead of a raised crust, they may be put in a dish and covered with puff paste, &c.

_Raised Macaroni Pie._

RAISE a crust and ornament and bake it, and when it is to be served up have ready some hot macaroni stewed and a white fricassee of chicken in separate stewpans. Put them alternately into the pie, strew a little grated parmezan cheese over it, put a slip of paper round the edge of the pie to prevent from burning, and colour the cheese with a salamander.

_Raised Beef Steak Pie._

TAKE prime steaks of a rump of beef, cut the skin from the fat, beat the steaks with a chopper, cut them into middling-sized pieces, then pass them with a bit of fresh butter, pepper, salt, lemon juice, and eschallots chopped, and when they are half done put them into a dish till cold. Blanch oysters, strain them, and preserve the liquor; then raise a crust, put a layer of steak at the bottom, some oysters upon it, and so alternately; cover the pie, ornament and bake it. When it is to be served up put into it a good cullis, with the oyster liquor and some ketchup mixed with it.

N. B. In the same manner put steaks and oysters into a deep dish, and cover them with puff paste.

_Veal Pie._

CUT the best end of a loin of veal into thin chops, take off part of the bone and some of the fat from the kidney, season with pepper and salt, put them into a deep dish with yolks of boiled eggs, cover with puff paste, egg and ornament with leaves, bake it, and when it is to be served up, put into it some good consumé.

_Pork Pie._