The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined

Part 4

Chapter 44,413 wordsPublic domain

BONE a rump of beef and daub it with slips of fat bacon, seasoned with sweet herbs, eschallots, beaten spices, pepper, and salt. Bind it round with packthread, and braise it till tender; then wipe it dry, glaize the top, and serve it up with the sauce round. Either Spanish onion sauce, or savoy, haricot, or ashée sauce may be used.

N. B. It may be served with the sauce either plain or daubed.

_To make Spanish Onion Sauce._

BRAISE six Spanish onions with the beef till three parts done; then peel them, and add some good cullis, seasoned with cayenne pepper, salt, lemon juice, and a little sifted lump sugar, and stew them till tender.

_Savoy Sauce._

CUT some savoys in quarters, blanch them, and then tie them round and braise them with the beef till half done. Take them out of the liquor, cut off the string, and put them into a stewpan with good strong cullis, and simmer them till tender.

_Ashée Sauce._

TAKE some pickle cucumbers chopped small, then capers, parsley, eschallots, breast of a fowl, lean of ham, carrots, and yolks and whites of eggs. Then add to them a good-seasoned cullis and a little mushroom ketchup. Simmer all together a quarter of an hour.

N. B. The ham, fowl, egg, and carrot to be boiled before they are chopped.

_Brisket of Beef with Spanish Onions._

TO be done in the same manner as the rump, but not to be daubed with bacon.

_Brisket of Beef with Ashée or Haricot._

TO be done in the same manner as the preceding.

_Rump of Beef a-la mode._

BONE the rump, daub it with slips of fat bacon seasoned with sweet herbs, beaten spices, and pepper and salt. Bind it round with packthread, put it into a braising pan, cover it with some veal stock, make it boil, skim it, and add a pint of red port, some onions, turnips, celery, a few bay leaves, garlick, champignons, a few whole allspice, and a little mace. Let it stew till nearly done; then take it out of the liquor, cut off the strings, wipe it dry, and put it into a clean stewpan. Then strain the liquor, skim the fat off clean, season with cayenne, salt, a gill of vinegar, lemon pickle, and a small quantity of juice of lemon; add a little colour, clear it with whites of eggs, and strain it through a tamis cloth to the beef. Stew it gently till done, and serve it up in a deep dish.

N. B. To the liquor, when cleared with eggs and strained, may be added some passing of flour and butter, by way of thickening, if approved. The reason for clearing the liquor is, that it will make it appear bright either thickened or plain.

_Baked Beef._

BONE a leg of beef, wash it clean, chop plenty of parsley, a middling quantity of thyme, eschallots, marjoram, savory, and a little basil. Then mix them together, and add a small quantity of beaten allspice, mace, cloves, pepper, and salt. Rub the beef well with the ingredients, set it in an earthen pan, put to it a gill of vinegar, half a pint of red port, eight middling-sized whole onions peeled, two bay leaves, a few fresh or dried champignons. Let the meat remain till next day; then add a sufficient quantity of water to it, cover the pan close, and bake the meat till tender.

_Marrow Bones._

CHOP the bones at each end so as to stand steady; then wash them clean, saw them in halves, set them upright in a saucepan with water, and boil them two hours. Serve them up very hot, and with fresh toasted bread.

_Mutton Rumps marinated._

CLEAN and cut the rumps of an equal length, and lay them in a pan and the marinate liquor for a whole night; then pass them in butter till nearly done. Lay them on a dish to cool, wash them over with yolk of egg, and breadcrumb them. Fry them gently in boiling lard till done, and of a nice colour. Drain them dry, and serve them up with a very good-seasoned cullis sauce and ketchup in it.

N. B. In the same manner may be done mutton steaks.

_To make Marinate._

TAKE a little gravy, vinegar, salt, whole black pepper, a few bay leaves, onions sliced, a clove of garlick, and a little thyme. Boil all together and strain it.

_Haricot Mutton Cutlets._

CUT a loin or best end of a neck of mutton into steaks, trim them neat, and fry them till three parts done, and of a nice colour. Put them into a stewpan, add a little liquor to preserve them from burning, and simmer till tender. Lay the steaks round in a dish, and serve them up with haricot sauce over.

N. B. The essence that the steaks were stewed in to be strained, skimmed clean from fat, and added to the sauce.

_Fillet of Mutton with Cucumbers._

TAKE the best end of a neck of mutton, cut off the under bone, leaving the long ones on; then trim it neat, lard it, or let it remain plain; roast it gently, glaize it, and serve it up with cucumber sauce under.

_Stewed Cucumbers._

TAKE fresh gathered cucumbers, pare them, cut them into shapes if seedy, or slices if young. Put them into a stewpan, and add a little salt, vinegar, and an onion. Simmer them over a fire till nearly done and the liquor reduced, or fry them with a bit of fresh butter, and add a good strong cullis. Let the cucumbers stew till done, and serve them up with the mutton, which may be roasted with larding (or plain).

N. B. The cucumbers may be served as an entrée of itself, and fried bread put round them.

_Mutton Cutlets with Potatoes._

CUT a loin of mutton into steaks, beat them with a chopper, and trim them neat. Pass them in sweet herbs, eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When nearly done, lay them on a dish till almost cool, and then egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard till of a light brown colour. Place the steaks round in a dish, leaving a cavity in the center, which is to be filled up with potatoes, and the sauce under the steaks.

N. B. The potatoes to be peeled, scooped, or cut into shapes. Then fry them of a light colour, and put them before the fire till wanted; and add to the sauce the steaks were passed in, a little cullis and ketchup; then strain and reduce it almost to a glaize.

_Mutton Cutlets a la Maintenon._

GET the best end of a loin of mutton, take off the under bone, and cut it into chops; beat them, and trim them neat; then add to them a bit of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, pepper, salt, a little pounded mace, and lemon juice. Pass them till nearly done; then lay them on a dish, pour the liquor over the chops, and, when nearly cool, breadcrumb, and put them separately in oiled white paper; fold them up, broil them over a slow fire, and serve them up with hot poivrade sauce in a boat.

N. B. See _Poivrade Sauce_ receipt.

_Cutlets a la Irish Stew._

GET the best end of a neck of mutton, take off the under bone, and cut it into chops; season them with pepper, salt, a little mushroom powder, and beaten mace. Put them into a stewpan, add a large onion sliced, some parsley and thyme tied in a bunch, and a pint of veal broth. Simmer the chops till three parts done, then add some whole potatoes peeled, and let them stew till done. Serve it up in a deep dish.

N. B. Let the parsley and thyme be taken out when the stew is to be served up.

_Pork Cutlets with Red or White Cabbage._

TAKE a piece of back pork, cut it into chops, beat and trim them, season with pepper and salt, broil them gently till done and of a light brown colour. Serve them up with stewed red or white cabbage under.

_To stew Cabbage._

CUT the cabbage into slips, and blanch and drain them dry. Put them into a stewpan, with a bit of fresh butter, pepper, salt, an onion, some vinegar, half a pint of veal broth, and a little allspice tied in a cloth. Stew the cabbage gently till done and the liquor nearly reduced, and then take the spice and onion out.

_Pork Cutlets with Robert Sauce._

GET a piece of back pork, or the best end of a loin, and take off the under bone; then cut the chops neat, season with pepper and salt, broil them gently, and serve them up with the sauce underneath.

_To make Robert Sauce._

TAKE some cullis, a bay leaf, an onion sliced, a blade of mace, a little mustard, and a gill of rhenish wine. Boil all together a quarter of an hour, strain it, and reduce it nearly to a glaize.

_Pork Cutlets another way._

TRIM the chops neat as above, pass them with a bit of fresh butter, chopped eschallots, pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice. When nearly done, breadcrumb and broil them till of a light brown colour. Serve them up with the following sauce placed underneath; that is to say, cullis, mushroom, ketchup, lemon pickle, and mustard, a little of each, and reduce nearly to a glaize.

_Fillet of Pork roasted._

TAKE a piece of back pork, cut the chine bone from the under part, and lay it in a marinate all night. When it is to be roasted run a lark spit through, tie it on another spit, cover it with paper, and roast it gently; and when to be served up, if not coloured enough, glaize it lightly, and put some robert sauce underneath.

_Pigs Feet and Ears._

TAKE prepared feet and pass them, with chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When done, breadcrumb and broil them gently. Let the ears be cut in slices, and add cullis well-seasoned; then stew them for ten minutes, and serve them up with the feet over.

_To prepare Pigs Feet and Ears._

SCALD and clean them; then split the feet and tie them round with packthread; put them in a pot covered with water; make it boil, skim it clean, and add a little garlick, thyme, eschallots, onions, bay leaves, whole black pepper, allspice, mace, salt, and udder of veal. Braise them till tender, and put them in an earthen pan for use.

_Compotte of Pigeons._

CUT off the pinions, draw the legs in close, colour the breast in boiling hot lard, and then blanch and wash them; which done, put them in a stewpan, add a little veal broth, and simmer them gently till nearly done, and then make a ragout of blanched sweetbreads, button mushrooms, truffles, morells, artichoke bottoms, egg balls, cullis, and the liquor of the pigeons strained, and season well to the palate. Let the ingredients stew for ten minutes, then add them to the pigeons, and serve up all together in a deep dish.

_Pigeons a la Craupidine._

CUT off the pinions, draw in the legs, cut the breast so as to lay back, then pass them with sweet herbs, mushrooms, eschallots chopped fine, a little fresh butter, grated nutmeg, lemon juice, pepper, and salt. Let them simmer till nearly done; then lay them on a dish, and when nearly cool, egg with yolk of eggs, and strew them with crumbs of bread rubbed through a fine hair sieve. Fry them of a light colour in boiling hot lard (or broil them). Serve them up with a good cullis and sharp sauce underneath.

_Pigeons glaized._

PUT some good-seasoned forcemeat in the pigeons, cut off the pinions, lay back the legs, blanch them, and roast them gently with vine leaves and bards of fat bacon over them. When they are to be served up glaize the top part, and serve them with cullis sauce, or celery heads, or asparagus tops, &c. under them.

_Pigeons a la Sousell._

BONE the legs and wings of four pigeons and draw them in; then fill them with a high-seasoned forcemeat, and braise them in a half pint of veal stock. When done enough, take the pigeons out, wipe them dry, glaize the top, and serve them up with stewed sorrel underneath.

N. B. The liquor they were braised in to be strained, skimmed free from fat, and reduced almost to a glaize, and added to the sorrel. (Or they may, when three parts done, be wiped dry, egged and breadcrumbed over, then fried in boiling lard, and served up with sorrel sauce underneath as above).

_Hashed Calf's Head._

TAKE a head, without the scalp, chopped in half; wash and blanch it, peel the tongue, cut it in slices, and likewise the meat from the head. Add blanched morells and truffles, egg and forcemeat balls, stewed mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, and well-seasoned cullis. Let the meat stew gently till nearly done, and then add slices of throat sweetbreads. When it is to be served up, put round the hash the brains and rashers of bacon; and, if approved, half the head to be put on the top, which is to be prepared thus:--One half of the head when blanched to be done over with yolk of raw egg; then season with pepper and salt, strew with fine breadcrumbs, bake till very tender, and colour with a salamander if requisite. The brains to be egged and rolled in breadcrumbs, and fried in boiling lard. The rashers of bacon to be broiled.

_Breast of Veal en Gallentine._

BONE the veal and lay a light forcemeat over it, and upon that some slips of lean ham, pickle cucumbers, fat bacon, and omlets of eggs white and yellow. Roll it up tight in a cloth, tie each end, and braise it till tender. When it is to be served up, take it out of the cloth, wipe it dry, and glaize the top; then put under it stewed sorrel or stewed celery heads, or ragout.

_Breast of Veal Ragout._

TAKE off the under bone and cut the breast in half, lengthways; then cut them in middling-sized pieces, fry them in a little lard till of a light brown colour, wipe them dry, put them into a stewpan with half a pint of veal stock, simmer them till nearly done and the liquor almost reduced; then add blanched morell, truffles, slices of throat sweetbread, egg balls, artichoke bottoms, a little ketchup, and some cullis; season to the palate with cayenne pepper and salt, and a little lemon juice. Let all stew together till done.

_Neck of Veal en Erison._

CUT off the scragg and the under chine bone, then lay a light forcemeat on the top of the veal about half the way, and wash it with whites of eggs with a paste brush, and work a sprig or any other device as fancy directs, with pickle cucumber, ham, breast of fowl, omlets of eggs white and yellow, boiled carrots, and some capers. Put the veal into a stewpan, add a little stock, and stew it gently till tender, taking care the ornament is not disturbed. When it is to be served up glaize the plain part, and put under a cullis sauce with asparagus or peas.

N. B. In the same manner may be done heart sweetbreads.

_Neck of Veal larded._

TAKE off the under bone of a neck of veal, leave only a part of the long bones on; trim it neat, lard it, and roast it gently with a veal caul over. Ten minutes before it is done take off the caul, and let the veal be of a very light colour. When it is to be served up glaize it, and put under some sorrel sauce, celery heads, or asparagus tops.

_Veal Cutlets larded._

CUT the best end of a neck of veal into chops, leaving only a part of the long bone; then lard, blanch, and braise them; and when they are to be served up, drain, dry, glaize, and place them round each other in a dish, and put green truffle sauce, or white mushroom sauce, in the center.

_Loin of Veal a la Cream._

TAKE the best end of a loin of veal, joint it, and cut a little of the suet from the kidney; cause it to lay flat, and then make an incision in the center of the top part about three inches deep and six inches long. Take the piece out, chop it, add to it the suet or beef marrow, parsley, thyme, green truffles, mushrooms, eschallots, lemon peel, chopped very fine, and season it with pepper and salt, and a little beaten spice. Put all together into a marble mortar, add the yolks of two eggs, and a little french bread soaked in cream; then pound the ingredients well, and fill the cavity with the forcemeat, and cover it with a piece of veal caul; after which tie it down close and cover the whole with a large piece of caul, roast it gently, and when it is to be served up, take off the large piece of caul, let it colour a little, glaize it lightly, and put under it a benshamelle or a ragout of sweetbreads, &c.

N. B. In the same manner may be done a fillet of veal instead of plain stuffing.

_Veal Tendrons (brown or white)._

TAKE a breast of white veal, cut off the under bone and the top skin; then cut it into three long slips, and the slips again into pieces of two inches thick; blanch and put them into a stewpan, then add a little water, bards of bacon, and slices of lemon. Braise them till tender, drain them dry, and serve them up with green truffle sauce, or celery, asparagus, or peas. The sauce to be served over the veal.

_Celery Sauce, (white), for Veal, Chickens, Turkies, &c._

CUT celery heads three inches long, trim them, wash and blanch them, drain them dry, add a little stock, boil them till nearly done, and the liquor almost reduced; then put to them some benshamelle, and, if approved, five minutes before the sauce is put over the meat or poultry, add a leason of two yolks of eggs and cream.

_Celery Sauce, (brown,) for Pullets, &c._

DRESS celery heads as above, but instead of benshamelle add a good cullis only.

N. B. The above sauces may be served up in dishes with fried bread round the celery heads, as an entrée of itself.

_Veal Cutlets au natural._

CUT the best end of a neck of veal into chops, trim off the bone, pass the steaks with a bit of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, and eschallots, and season with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When nearly done, lay them on a dish with the liquor; and when cool, egg, breadcrumb, and broil them gently. Serve them up placed round each other, with a sauce in the center made with cullis, a little ketchup, lemon pickle, and artichoke bottoms cut into pieces.

_Veal Collops (brown)._

CUT veal cutlets (taken from the fillet) into small thin pieces, and fry them in a little boiling lard till of a light brown colour. Drain them dry, put them into a stewpan, add cullis, stewed mushrooms, some blanched truffles, morells, pieces of artichoke bottoms, some slices of throat sweetbreads, and egg balls. Let them simmer over a slow fire till tender, season to the palate, and serve them up with rashers of broiled bacon round them.

_Veal Collops (white)._

CUT the collops as for brown, but instead of frying, put them into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter, a little lemon juice, and a blade of mace. Simmer them till nearly done, then strain the liquor to some benshamelle, and add the collops with some slices of throat sweetbreads, some cocks combs blanched, egg balls, pieces of artichoke bottoms, and stewed white mushrooms. Let them stew gently, season to the palate with salt, and make the sauce of a sufficient thickness to adhere to the ingredients.

N. B. Five minutes before the collops are to be served up a leason may be added of eggs and cream.

_Fricando Veal._

CUT off a long or round piece of veal from the leg, beat it flat with a chopper, and make an incision in the under part. Put into it a little light forcemeat, sew it up, lard the top part with pieces of fat bacon very neat, blanch it, put it into a stewpan with a little stock, and cover it close; then let it stew till very tender, and the liquor nearly reduced. When it is to be served up glaize the larding, and put stewed sorrel under.

N. B. The forcemeat, if not approved, may be omitted; and instead of only one piece of veal, three or four small pieces may be served on a dish.

_Sorrel Sauce._

WASH clean, squeeze and chop fine, plenty of sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter; stew it till the liquor is almost reduced, and then add a little strong cullis. Let the sauce be of a good thickness.

_Veal Olives._

CUT thin bards of fat bacon of six inches long and four broad, lay upon them very thin slices of veal of the same dimensions, wash the veal with yolk of egg, and put upon it some light forcemeat. Then roll them up, run a lark spit through sideway of each olive, tie a string over them to prevent their falling off, trim each end with a sharp knife, roast them gently, and froth and serve them up with a cullis sauce under

_Breast of Veal with Oysters._

CUT off the under bone of a breast of white veal, and the skin from the top; then blanch and braise it, or roast it gently till very tender with a veal caul over. When it is to be served up take off the caul, glaize the top of the breast, and put round it white oyster sauce. (See receipt for _Oyster Sauce_.)

_Lamb's Head minced._

CHOP the head in halves, and blanch it with the liver, heart, and lights. Then chop the heart, &c. and add to them a little parsley chopped very fine, a small quantity of shredded lemon peel, and some cullis; then stew it gently till done, and season to the palate. Wash the head over with yolk of egg, season it with pepper and salt, strew fine breadcrumbs over, and bake it gently till very tender. When it is to be served up, colour it with a salamander, put the mince under, and the brains fried round it, with rashers of broiled bacon.

N. B. To prepare the brains, clean them in warm water, wipe them dry, dip them in yolk of egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard.

_Breast of Lamb with Benshamelle._

TAKE off the under bone, then blanch and put it into a stewpan, with parsley, thyme, and eschallots, chopped very fine, a bit of fresh butter, pepper, salt, a little essence of anchovie, and lemon juice. Let it simmer over a slow fire till nearly done; then lay it on a dish, and, when almost cool, egg and breadcrumb it, broil it over a slow clear fire till tender, and let it be of a nice brown colour. Serve it up with a benshamelle sauce under.

_Breast or Tendrons of Lamb en Matelote._

CUT the breast into two long slips, trim off the bone and skin, cut them into small pieces, blanch and boil them in a little stock and lemon juice. When nearly done, add peeled and half-boiled button onions, pieces of pickle cucumber cut of the same size, a few button mushrooms stewed, some slices of throat sweetbreads, blanched omlet of egg (the same kind as for garnishing) cut into pieces the form of dice, and lean ham cut in the same manner; then add a cullis or benshamelle. When it is to be served up, put sippets of fried bread round.

_Breast of Lamb with Peas._

CUT off the under bone, and then blanch and braise it. When it is to be served up, glaize the top and put the stewed peas under.

_To stew Peas for Sauce: for Lamb, Veal, Chickens, &c._

TO a quart of shelled young green peas add two ounces of fresh butter, a very little sifted sugar, and some salt. Put them into a stewpan, cover it close, simmer the peas till nearly done, then add some good-seasoned cullis, and stew them till tender.

_Lamb Cutlets with Cucumbers._

TAKE the bone from a loin of lamb, cut it into chops, beat them flat with a chopper, and trim off some of the fat. Pass them with a piece of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, lemon juice, and pepper and salt. When three parts done, put them on a dish, and, when nearly cool, egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard till of a light brown colour. Drain them dry, place them round each other in the dish, and serve them up with the cucumber sauce in the center.

N. B. In the same manner may be done mutton and veal cutlets.

_Neck of Lamb glaized._

CUT the scragg and the chine bone from a neck of house lamb; then take off the skin, trim part of the fat away to lard the neck lengthways, blanch it, and braise or roast it gently with a veal caul over. When it is to be served up, glaize the larding, and put round it white onion sauce made thus:

_Onion Sauce._

TAKE boiled onions, rub them through a hair sieve; then add to them fresh butter, cream, flour, salt, a very little of each, and let it stew five minutes.

_Lamb Cutlets with Tendrons._

CUT a neck of house lamb into chops, leaving only the long bone; then beat them flat, and pass them with parsley, thyme, eschallots, chopped very fine, and add a little lemon juice, mushroom powder, pepper, and salt. When they are three parts done lay them on a dish, and when half cold breadcrumb them and broil them on a stewpan cover over a slow fire with a bit of fresh butter. When they are to be served up, put in the center of the dish some braised tendrons of the breast of lamb, and round them the cutlets, and turnip sauce over the center.

_Turnip Sauce._