The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined

Part 12

Chapter 124,201 wordsPublic domain

TAKE a pound of fresh butter and rub with it a pound of flour, mix them into a light paste with a gill of yest and some warm cream, and set it in a warm place to rise; then mould in with it a few carraway seeds, make it into cakes the size of small french rolls, and bake them on tins buttered.

_Pancakes._

TO half a pound of best white flour sifted add a little salt, grated nutmeg, cream or new milk, and mix them well together; then whisk eight eggs, put them to the above, and beat the mixture for ten minutes till perfectly smooth and light, and let it be of a moderate thickness. When the cakes are to be fried, put a little piece of lard or fresh butter in each frying-pan over a regular fire, and when hot put in the mixture, a sufficient quantity just to cover the bottom of each pan, fry them of a nice colour, and serve them up very hot. Serve with them, likewise, some sifted loaf sugar, pounded cinnamon, and seville orange, on separate plates.

N. B. Before the frying pans are used let them be prepared with a bit of butter put into each and burnt; then wipe them very clean with a dry cloth, as this method prevents the batter from sticking to the pan when frying.

_Shrewsbury Cakes._

BEAT half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, add to it the same quantity of flour, one egg, six ounces of sifted sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of carraway seeds. Mix all together into a paste, roll it out thin, stamp it with a tin cutter, prick the cakes with a fork, lay them on tin plates rubbed with butter, and bake them in a slow oven.

_Portugal Cakes, or Heart Cakes._

TAKE a pound of flour, a pound of sifted sugar, a pound of fresh butter, and mix them with the hand (or a whisk) till they become like a fine batter. Then add two spoonfuls of rose water, half a pound of currants washed and picked, break ten eggs, whisk them, and mix well all together. Butter ten moulds, fill them three parts full with the mixture, and bake them in a brisk oven.

_Macaroons._

TAKE a pound of jordan almonds blanched and pounded fine, with a little rose water to preserve them from oiling, and add a pound of sifted sugar; then whisk the whites of ten eggs to a solid froth and add to the above; beat all together for some time. Have ready wafer paper on tin plates, drop the mixture over it separately the size of a shilling or smaller, sift a little sugar over, and bake them.

_Mirangles._

TAKE the whites of nine eggs, and whisk them to a solid froth; then add the rind of six lemons grated very fine and a spoonful of sifted sugar; after which lay a wet sheet of paper on a tin, and with a spoon drop the mixture in little lumps separately upon it, sift sugar over, and bake them in a moderately heated oven, observing they are of a nice colour. Then put raspberry, apricot, or any other kind of jam between two bottoms, add them together, and lay them in a warm place or before the fire to dry.

_Ratafias._

BLANCH and pound half a pound of jordan almonds, likewise the same quantity of bitter almonds, and preserve them from oiling with rose water; then add a pound of sifted sugar, beat the whites of four eggs well, and mix lightly with them; after which put the mixture into a preserving pan, set it over a moderate fire, stirring till it is pretty hot, and when it is cold roll it into small rolls, cut them into small cakes the bigness of a shilling, dip the top of your finger into flour and touch lightly each cake, put them on wafer paper, sift sugar over, and bake them in a slow oven.

_Lemon Puffs._

PUT a pound of sifted loaf sugar in a bowl with the juice of two lemons, and beat them together; then whisk the white of an egg to a very high froth, add it to the mixture, and whisk it for twenty minutes; after which put to it the rind of three lemons grated very fine and three eggs, mixing all well together. Sift sugar over wafer paper, drop on it the mixture in small quantities, and bake them in a moderately heated oven.

_Chantilly Basket._

HAVE ready a small quantity of warm clarified sugar boiled to a carmel height, dip ratafia cakes into it, and place them round the inside of a dish. Then cut more ratafia cakes into squares, dip them into the sugar, pile them on the others, and so on for two or three stories high. After which line the inside with wafer paper, fill with sponge biscuits, sweetmeats, blanched almonds, and some made cream as for an apple pie, put some trifle froth over that, and garnish the froth with rose leaves, or coloured comfits or carmel of sugar thrown lightly over the top.

_Green Codlins, frosted with Sugar._

TAKE twelve codlins, blanch them in water with a little roche-alum in it and some vine leaves; when they are nearly done take off the outside skin, rub the apples over with oiled fresh butter, and sift plenty of sugar over them; then lay them on a clean tin, put them into a slow oven, and when the sugar sparkles like frost take them out. When they are cold serve them up in a trifle glass with some perfumed cream round them made as for an apple pie, and on the top of each codlin stick a small flower for garnish.

_Pound Cake._

TAKE a pound of sifted sugar, a pound of fresh butter, and mix them with the hand for ten minutes; then put to them nine yolks and five whites of eggs beaten, whisk them well, and add a pound of sifted flour, a few carraway seeds, a quarter of a pound of candied orange peel cut into slices, a few currants washed and picked, and mix all together as light as possible.

_Yest Cake._

TAKE one pound of flour, two pounds of currants washed and picked, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a pound of lisbon sugar, a quarter of a pound of citron and candied orange peel cut into slices, cinnamon and mace a small quantity of each pounded and sifted. Make a cavity in the center of the ingredients, add a gill of sweet wine, a little warm milk, a teacupful of yest, and let it stand till the yest works; then put a little more warm milk, mix all together, fill a hoop with it, and let it remain till risen, and bake it.

_Rich Plum Cake._

TAKE one pound of sifted sugar, one pound of fresh butter, and mix them with the hand in a earthen dish for a quarter of an hour. Then beat well ten yolks and five whites of eggs, put two thirds of them to the sugar and butter, and mix them together till it begins to be tough; after which add one pound and a half of currants washed and picked, a quarter of a pound of citron, a quarter of a pound of candied orange or lemon peel cut into slices, a quarter of a pound of jordan almonds blanched and bruised very fine. Then pound a quarter of a pound of muscadine raisins, put to them a gill of sweet wine and a spoonful of brandy, strain the liquor through a cloth to the mixture, add the rest of the eggs, and mix all together as light as possible.

_Dried Cherries._

GATHER the largest flemish cherries (or english bearers) when nearly ripe, pick off the stalks and take the stones away; have ready a thin syrup boiling-hot, put the cherries into it, and let them remain till the next day; then strain and boil the liquor again, and add to the cherries; the same again on the third day; on the fourth day strain the syrup, add more sugar, and clarify it; boil it to a strong consistence, add the cherries, put them into jars, and when they are cold cover them close. When wanted for use take them out, lay them on large drying sieves, and put them in a very slack oven.

N. B. In the same manner may be done apricots, pears, plums, &c.

_Pippins with Rice._

BOIL two ounces of whole rice with half a pint of milk, and when it is nearly absorbed put the rice into a marble mortar, add a table spoonful of brandy, a little grated lemon peel, a small quantity of pounded cinnamon and cloves, two ounces of sifted sugar, two eggs, and pound all together. Then pare twelve large ripe golden pippins, core them with an apple scoop, mould over them some of the mixture with the hand, put writing paper on a tin-plate, rub it over with sweet oil or butter, put the apples on it, and bake them gently till done; then serve them up in a deep dish with melted butter over and a little of the syrup of quinces mixed with it.

_To make English Bread._

TAKE a peck of the best white flour, sift it into a trough, make a cavity in the center, and strain through a hair sieve (mixed together) a pint of good yest and a pint of lukewarm water; mix them lightly with some of the flour till of a light paste, set it in a warm place covered over to prove for an hour; then mix the whole with two quarts of lukewarm water and a little salt, knead it, let it be of a good stiffness, prove it an hour more and knead it again; prove it another hour, mould it into loaves or batch two pieces together, and bake them in a brisk oven.

N. B. A middling-size loaf will require an hour and a half in baking.

_French Bread._

SIFT a peck of fine flour into a trough, make a cavity in the center with the hand, strain into it (mixed together) a pint of lukewarm milk and a pint of good yest; mix them with some of the flour till of a light sponge, set it in a warm place covered over to prove for an hour; then add to it two quarts of lukewarm milk, half a pound of fresh butter, an ounce of sifted loaf sugar, and a little salt; knead it till of a nice stiffness, let it prove an hour more, knead it again, and let it prove another hour; then mould it into bricks, lay them on tins, put them into a very slack oven or warm place to prove for half an hour, and bake them in a brisk oven.

_Pulpton of Apples._

PARE, cut into quarters, and core eight good-sized baking apples; put them into a stewpan, add a bit of lemon peel and a table spoonful of rose water; cover the pan close, put it over a slow fire, and when the apples are tender rub them through a hair sieve, put to the pulp, sugar to the palate, sifted cinnamon and cloves a small quantity of each, four eggs well beaten, a quarter of a pound of the crumb of french bread soaked in a gill of cream, and mix all the ingredients together. Rub the inside of a mould with fresh butter, fill it with the mixture, bake it in a moderately heated oven, when done turn it out on a dish, and serve it up with sifted sugar over.

_A sweet Omlet of Eggs._

MIX well together ten eggs, half a gill of cream, a quarter of a pound of oiled fresh butter and a little syrup of nutmeg; sweeten it with loaf sugar, put the mixture into a prepared frying pan as for a savory omlet, fry it in the same manner, and serve it up with a little sifted sugar over it.

_To keep Cucumbers for Winter Use for Sauces._

TAKE fresh gathered middling-sized cucumbers, put them into a jar, have ready half vinegar, half water, and some salt, a sufficient quantity to cover them; make it boiling-hot, pour it over them, add sweet oil, cover the jars down close with bladder and leather, and set them in a dry place.

_To preserve Mushrooms for Sauces._

PEEL button forced mushrooms, wash them and boil till half done in a sufficient quantity of salt and water to cover them; then drain them and dry in the sun, boil the liquor with different spices, put the mushrooms into a jar, pour the boiling pickle over them, add sweet oil, and tie them over with bladder, &c.

_Pullet roasted with Batter._

BONE and force the pullet with good stuffing or forcemeat, paper it and put it to roast; when half done take off the paper, and baste the fowl with a little light batter; let it dry, baste it again, so repeating till it is done and nicely crusted over; then serve it up with benshamelle or poivrade sauce beneath.

_Dutch Beef._

RUB the prime ribs of fat beef with common salt, and let them lay in a pan for three days; then rub them with the different articles as for hams or tongues, and add plenty of bruised juniper berries. Turn the meat every two days for three weeks, and smoke it.

_Mushroom Ketchup._

TAKE a parcel of mushrooms either natural or forced, the latter will prove the best, and cut off part of the stalk towards the root. Wash the mushrooms clean, drain them, then bruise them a little in a marble mortar, put them into an earthen vessel with a middling quantity of salt, let them remain for four days, and then strain them through a tamis cloth. When the sediment is settled pour the liquor into a stewpan, and to every pint of juice add half a gill of red port, a little whole allspice, cloves, mace, and pepper. Boil them together twenty minutes, then skim and strain the ketchup, and when cold put it into small bottles and cork them close.

_Suet Pudding._

CHOP fine half a pound of beef suet, add to it the same quantity of flour, two eggs beaten, a little salt, a small quantity of pounded and sifted ginger, and mix them together with milk. Let the mixture be of a moderate thickness. It may be either boiled or baked.

_Savoy Cake._

BEAT well together the yolks of eight eggs and a pound of sifted sugar, and whisk the whites till of a solid froth; then take six ounces of flour and a little sifted cinnamon, and mix all the ingredients lightly together; after which rub a mould with fresh butter, fill it three parts full with the mixture, and bake it in a slack heated oven.

_Nutmeg Syrup._

POUND a quarter of a pound of nutmegs, put them into a stewpan, add a pint and a half of hot water, and boil them for half an hour; then strain, and put to a pint of liquor two pounds of sifted sugar and one egg beat up with a little cold water; set it over a fire, and when it boils skim it till perfectly clear and reduced to a good syrup, and when it is cold mix with it half a pint of brandy.

Having this syrup always at hand will answer a better purpose for puddings, &c. than grated nutmeg and brandy, as the mixtures can be better palated, and likewise save trouble and expense.

_Sweetbreads with Veal and Ham._

BLANCH heart sweetbreads eight minutes, and wash and wipe them dry; then make an incision in the under part, take out a piece and pound it with a small quantity of light forcemeat; after which fill the cavity in the sweetbread, rub the top with white of egg, lay over it a thin slice of lean ham, a slice of veal, and a bard of bacon; put paper and a thin sheet of common paste over the whole, bake them gently for an hour, and when they are to be served up take off the paste and paper, glaize lightly the bacon, and put under the sweetbreads a good benshamelle.

_Essence of Ham for Sauces._

TAKE four pounds of slices of lean ham, and be careful it is of a good flavour; put it into a stewpan with a little water, six peeled eschallots, and two bay leaves; cover the pan close, set it over a fire, and simmer the ham till three parts done; then add two quarts of water and boil it till tender, strain it through a fine sieve, skim it perfectly free from fat, clear it with whites of eggs, strain it through a tamis, boil it till it is reduced to a pint, and when cold put it into small bottles and cork them close.

_Ox Heart roasted._

LET the heart be very fresh, wash and wipe it, fill it with a stuffing as for a fillet of veal, tie over the top a piece of veal caul, roast it gently one hour and an half, and five minutes before it is done roast it quick, froth it with flour and butter, and put it on a very hot dish. Serve it up with a sauce under it made with cullis, fresh butter, a table spoonful of ketchup, and half a gill of red port boiled together.

_Slices of Cod fried with Oysters._

EGG, breadcrumb, and fry in boiling lard, some slices of crimped cod; when done, drain them dry, serve them up with oyster sauce in the center, made in the same manner as for beef steaks.

_Small Crusts to be eaten with Cheese or Wine after Dinner._

TAKE the crumb of a new-baked loaf, pull it into small pieces, put them on a baking plate, and set them in a moderately heated oven till they are of a nice brown colour.

_Devilled Almonds._

BLANCH half a pound of jordan almonds and wipe them dry; then put into a frying-pan two ounces of fresh butter, make it hot, add the almonds, fry them gently till of a good brown colour, drain them on a hair sieve, strew over cayenne pepper and some salt, and serve them up hot.

_Boiled Tripe and Onions._

CUT a prepared double of tripe into slips, then peel and boil some spanish or other onions in milk and water with a little salt, and when they are nearly done add the tripe and boil it gently ten minutes. Serve it to table with the onions and a little of the liquor in a tureen. Serve up, likewise, in a sauceboat, some melted butter with a little mustard mixed with it, and (if approved) there may be added a table spoonful of vinegar.

_Boiled Sweetbreads._

BLANCH two heart sweetbreads, wash and trim off the pipe, then boil them in milk and water with a little salt for half an hour; drain them dry, and when they are to be served to table put over them some boiling benshamelle with a little parsley chopped very fine in it.

_Broiled Sweetbreads._

BLANCH the sweetbreads till half done, wash and trim off the pipe, then cut them into large slices, season with a small quantity of cayenne pepper and salt, broil them gently over a clear fire till of a nice brown colour, and serve them up very hot, with some cold fresh butter on a plate.

_Conclusion, with Remarks._

ALL sweets, pastry, shellfish or savoury dishes, either plain or modelled, with fat or butter, or ornaments of any kind, that are served up in second courses or ball suppers, &c. should be very light, airy, and neat; the pastry, likewise, of the best puff paste, well-baked, and rather inclining to a pale colour, which has a very good effect.

Let it also be observed, that mention should have been made in the receipt for Mock Turtle, of an addition to the passing of flour and butter, to each gallon of liquor half a pint of madeira wine; and (if approved) the mock turtle may be made with pieces of cow-heel or pig's head instead of calf's scalp.

INDEX.

A.

A LA reine soup, 5

Almond cake, 215 ------ custards, 216 ------ nuts, 200 ------ paste, 198 ------ pudding, 219

Almonds devilled, 312

Anchovie essence for fish sauces, 234 -------- sauce, 265

Apples, to stew, for tarts, 203

Apple dumplings, 223 ----- fritters, 190 ----- pudding baked, 223 ------------- boiled, 222 ----- sauce for pork, &c., 267

Apricot jam, 211

Apricots, preserved, for tarts or desserts, ib.

Artichoke bottoms fried, 171 ----------------- stewed, 144 -----------------, to dry, 243 -----------------, to pickle, 248

Ashée sauce, 45

Asparagus peas, 155 --------- peas another way, 156 --------- tops for sauces, 157

Aspect of fish, 181 ------ of meat or fowl, 182

Atlets curried, 168

B.

Bacquillio with herbs, 27

Bagnets a l'eau, 189

Baked beef, 47 ----- pears, 273

Barberries, to pickle, 251 ----------- to preserve. 279

Bath cakes, 291

Batter, to prepare, for frying, 170 ------- pudding, 221

Beef collops, 42 ---- palates stewed, 43 ---- red, for slices, 179 ---- steaks broiled, 128 ---- steak pudding, 129 ---- stock, 1 ---- tails, 41

Beet root, to pickle, 247

Benshamelle, or white cullis, 4

Black puddings, french, 257

Blancmange, white, 185

Boiled sweetbreads, 313

Breadcrumbs to prepare for frying, 88

Bread pudding, 220 ----- sauce for turkies, &c., 269

Breast of lamb with benshamelle, 72 -------------- en matelote, ib. -------------- with peas, 73

Breast of veal en gallentine, 61 -------------- ragout, ib. -------------- with oysters, 70

Bride cakes, 289

Brisket of beef with spanish onions, 45 -------------------- ashée or haricot, 46

Bristol cakes, 287

Broiled mackarel, 25 ------- salmon, 24 ------- sweetbreads, 313

Burnt cream, 197

Butter clarified for potting, 235 ------ melted, 269

Buns, 207

C.

Cabbage, red, to pickle, 250 -------- to stew, 54

Calf's feet jelly, 187 ------ head hashed, 60 ------ liver roasted, 233

Callipash, 18

Callipee, 19

Canopies, 183

Cardoons stewed, 145

Carrot pudding, 227

Cauliflower a la cream, 144 ----------- sauce, 143 ----------- with parmezan cheese, ib.

Celery fried, 170 ------ sauce (brown), 66 ------ sauce (white), ib. ------ soup, 8

Champignons, &c. to dry, 238

Chantilly basket, 296

Cheese cakes, 199 ------ stewed, 169

Cherries in brandy for desserts, 206

Chicken puffs, 111 ------- tourte, 103 ------- with lemon sauce, 116 ------- or turkies with celery sauce, 118 ------- with oyster sauce, ib. ------- with peas, 119 -------------- another way, 120

Cinnamon cakes, 285

Citron of melons, 270

Clarified butter for potting, 235 --------- sugar, 273

Cleared brown stock, 6

Cloves, syrup of, 274

Codlins, green, frosted with sugar, 297

Coffee cream, 197

Collared eels, 230 -------- pig, 178

Collops, veal (brown), 67 ------- (white), 68

Colouring for paste for garnishing, 286

Compote of oranges, 195 ------- of pigeons, 57

Consumé, 2

Cracknels, 272

Crayfish soup, 5

Cream for fruit pies, 193

Cressey soup, 8

Crisp tart paste, 213

Cucumbers forced, 154 ---------, to keep for winter use, 304 ---------, to pickle, 244 ---------, large, to pickle, 249 ---------, to preserve, 277

Cullis, or thick gravy, 2

Currant jelly, 212

Currants, to pickle, 251 --------, to preserve, 278

Currie or pepper water, 254 ------ of chickens, 81 ------ of lobsters, 83 ------ of mutton, ib. ------ of pig's head, 84 ------ of veal, 83

Curried atlets, 168

Cutlets, lamb, with cucumbers, 74 -------------- with tendrons, 75 -------------- another way, 77

Cutlets, mutton, with haricot, 49 ---------------, with potatoes, 51 ---------------, a la Maintenon, 52 ---------------, a la Irish stew, 53

Cutlets, pork, with red or white cabbage, ib. -------------, with robert sauce, 54 -------------, another way, 55

Cutlets, veal, larded, 63 -------------, natural, 67

D.

Damson pudding, 224 -------------- another way, ib.

Diet bread, 284

Directions for meat and poultry plain boiled, 121 ---------- for roasting, 84 ---------- for vegetables, 157

Dried cherries, 300

Duck with benshamelle, 125 ---- with cucumbers, 124 ---- aux naves, 123

Dutch beef, 306 ----- blancmange, 186 ----- sauce, 264

E.

Eel pie, 109

Egg paste for balls, soups, &c., 39

Eggs and bacon, 213 ---- buttered, 163 ---- fried with ham, &c., 164 ---- poached with sorrel, &c., 163 ---- a la tripe, 165

Endive stewed, 153

English bread, 301

Entrée of eels, 28 ------ of mackarel, 31 ------ of salmon, 29 ------ of smelts, 30 ------ of soles, 28 ------ of whitings, 29

Essence of ham for sauces, 310

F.

Fennel sauce for mackarel, 268

Fillet of beef larded, 42 ------ of mutton with cucumbers, 50 ------ of pork roasted, 56 ------ of veal prepared for roasting, 93

Fish for frying, 22 ---- meagre pie, 101 ---- meagré soup, 14 ---- plain boiled, 21 ---- prepared for broiling, 23 ------------- for frying, ib. ------------- for stewing, 25

Flat chicken pie, or tourte, 103

Flowers in sugar, 276

Forcemeat balls for soups and ragouts, 38

Fowl a la Memorancy, 115 --------- St. Menehout, 114

Fowl, &c. with oyster sauce, 118

French beans creamed, 145 ------ black puddings, 257 ------ bread, 302 ------ salad, 185

Fricando veal glaized, 69

Fricassee of chicken or rabbits (white or brown), 117 --------- of tripe, 167

Fried parsley, 111 ----- puffs with sweetmeats, 204

Fruit pudding baked, 225

G.

Giblet soup, 13

Giblets stewed plain, 138 ------ stewed with peas, 139

Gingerbread nuts, 288

Glaize for hams, larding, &c., 20

Golden pippins a la cream, 191 -------------- another way, 192 -------------- stewed, 193 -------------- syrup of, 275

Gooseberries, to bottle, 282 ------------- another way, 283

Gooseberry fool, 280

Gravy for meats and poultry, 95

Green codlins frosted, 297 ----- gage jam, 210 ----- geese for roasting, 91 ----- peas soup, 10 ----- sauce for poultry, 268 ----- truffles for a dish, 139