Part 1

THE ART OF COOKERY _MADE EASY AND REFINED_.

[Transcriber's Notes: Text that was superscripted in the original is framed as w^{th.}. Spelling in this text is fluid and archaic. Changes made are noted in the list at the end of this text.]

THE ART OF COOKERY _MADE EASY AND REFINED_;

COMPRISING

AMPLE DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING EVERY ARTICLE REQUISITE FOR FURNISHING THE TABLES

OF THE

NOBLEMAN, GENTLEMAN, AND TRADESMAN.

BY

JOHN MOLLARD, COOK;

Lately one of the Proprietors of Freemasons' Tavern, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields; now removed to Dover Street, Piccadilly, formerly THOMAS'S.

_SECOND EDITION._

_LONDON_:

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, AND SOLD BY J. NUNN, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS, AND ALL BOOKSELLERS IN TOWN AND COUNTRY.

1802. _T. Bensley, Bolt Court, Fleet Street._

PREFACE.

THE mode of cookery which the author of the following sheets has pursued for a series of years having obtained the most distinguished approbation of the public, has induced him to commit his practice to paper; in doing which, a deviation has been made from the usual introductory methods of other treatises of the kind, in omitting to give particular directions for the choice of fish, meats, poultry, and vegetables, and at what times they respectively might be in season, &c. &c. the author conceiving the simpler method to be the most acceptable: and, therefore, as actual knowledge must ever supersede written forms, he would advise a frequent attendance at the different markets, fully assured that experience will convey greater instruction in marketing than all the theories which could be advanced. There are, nevertheless, some useful observations interspersed in the course of the work for that purpose; the author having confined himself chiefly to the practical part of cookery; he has also given some directions in a branch of the confectionary business: in both of which it has been his constant endeavour that they might be rendered as simple and easy as possible, and that economy might pervade the whole.

The receipts are written for the least possible quantities in the different made-dishes and sauces, it being a frequent error in most of the books that they are too expensive and too long; by which means the art has been rendered intricate in the extreme, both in theory and practice.

Independent, also, of a close adherence to any given rules, there are other qualities essential to the completion of a thorough cook; such as, an acute taste, a fertile invention, and a rigid attention to cleanliness.

The preceding hints and subsequent directions, it is hoped, will prove fully adequate to perfection in cookery; the work being entirely divested of the many useless receipts from other professions, (which have been uniformly introduced in books of the like nature,) and nothing inserted but what has an immediate reference to the art itself.

There is prefixed a Bill of Fare for each month in the year, as a specimen of the seasons, which may be altered as judgment directs. There is annexed, also, at the end of the volume, an Index, by which, from the first letter or word of the different articles, will be found their respective receipts.

February 2d, 1802.

CONTENTS.

PAGE Beef stock 1

Veal stock, for soups ib.

Consumé, or the essence of meat 2

Cullis, or a thick gravy ib.

Liquid of colour for sauces, &c. 3

Benshamelle 4

To make a passing of flour and butter for cullis or benshamelle ib.

Soup a la reine 5

Crayfish soup ib.

Vermicelli soup (white) 6

To make a leason ib.

Cleared brown stock for gravy soups ib.

Rice soup 7

Celery soup 8

Turnip soup ib.

Cressey soup ib.

Santé, or spring soup 9

Onion soup 10

Green peas soup ib.

Old peas soup 11

Peas soup another way 12

Giblet soup 13

Fish Meagré soup 14

Mock turtle of calf's head ib.

Mutton broth 15

Real turtle 16

Callipee 19

Glaize for hams, larding, roasted poultry, &c. 20

Fish plain boiled, how to be prepared 21

Fish generally fried 22 ---- to prepare for frying, &c. 23

Broiled fish, how prepared ib. ------ salmon ditto 24 ------ mackarel, common way 25

To stew fish ib.

Water souchée of perch, flounders, soles, eels, &c. 26

Roasted pike or sturgeon ib.

Bacquillio with herbs 27

Entrée of eels 28 ------ of soles ib. ------ of whitings, &c. 29 ------ of salmon ib. ------ of smelts, &c. 30 ------ of mackarel 31

Mackarel the german way ib.

Olios, or a spanish dish 32

The olio, how to be made 34

Hodge podge, or english olio 36

Light forcemeat for pies or fowls, &c. 38

Forcemeat balls for ragouts, &c. ib.

Egg for balls 39

Omlets of eggs for garnishing or cutting in slips ib.

Ox cheek 40

Beef tails 41

Haricot sauce 41

Beef collops 42

Fillet of beef larded ib.

Beef palates 43

Rump of beef a-la-daube, or braised ib.

To make Spanish onion sauce 44

Savoy sauce ib.

Ashée sauce 45

Brisket of beef with Spanish onions ib. ------- with ashée or haricot 46

Rump of beef a-la mode ib.

Baked beef 47

Marrow bones 48

Mutton rumps marinated ib.

To make marinate 49

Haricot mutton cutlets ib.

Fillet of mutton with cucumbers 50

Stewed cucumbers ib.

Mutton cutlets with potatoes 51 ------ a la Maintenon 52

Cutlets a la Irish stew 53

Pork cutlets with red or white cabbage ib.

To stew cabbage 54

Pork cutlets with robert sauce ib.

To make robert sauce 55

Pork cutlets another way ib.

Fillet of pork roasted 56

Pigs feet and ears ib.

To prepare pigs feet and ears 57

Compotte of pigeons ib.

Pigeons a la craupidine 58

Pigeons glaized 59

Pigeons a la sousell ib.

Hashed calf's head 60

Breast of veal en gallentine 61

Breast of veal ragout ib.

Neck of veal en erison 62

Neck of veal larded 63

Veal cutlets larded ib.

Loin of veal a la cream 64

Veal tendrons (brown or white) 65

Celery sauce, (white), for veal, chickens, turkies,&c. 66

Celery sauce, (brown), for pullets, &c. ib.

Veal cutlets au natural 67

Veal collops (brown) ib. ------------ (white) 68

Fricando veal 69

Sorrel sauce ib.

Veal olives 70

Breast of veal with oysters ib.

Lamb's head minced 71

Breast of lamb with benshamelle 72

Breast or tendrons of lamb en matelote ib. ------ of lamb with peas 73

To stew peas for sauce, for lamb, veal, chickens, &c. ib.

Lamb cutlets with cucumbers 74

Neck of lamb glaized 75

Onion sauce ib.

Lamb cutlets with tendrons ib.

Turnip sauce 76

Lamb cutlets with tendrons another way 77

Shoulder of lamb glaized 77 ---------------- en epigram 78 ---------------- grilled ib.

Hind quarter of lamb marinated 79 -------------------- with spinach 80

Leg of lamb with oysters ib.

Currie 81

Plain rice to be eaten with currie 82

Currie of lobster 83 ----- of veal ib. ------ of mutton ib.

Pig's head currie 84

Directions for roasting ib.

Soup for a family 85

To prepare a haunch of venison, or mutton, for roasting 86

To roast woodcocks or snipes 87 -------- larks 88

To fry breadcrumbs ib.

To roast turkies 89 -------- rabbits ib. -------- hares ib. -------- hares another way ib. -------- pigeons 90 -------- quails, or ruffs and rees ib. -------- guinea fowls, pea fowls, pullets, chickens, and turkey poults 91 -------- wild fowl ib. -------- partridges and pheasants ib. -------- green geese and ducklings ib. -------- other geese and tame ducks 92 -------- a pig 92 -------- sweetbreads 93 -------- ribs of beef ib. -------- fillet of veal ib.

Observations on meat and poultry 94

Stuffing for turkies, hares, veal, &c. ib.

Gravy for roast meat, steaks, and poultry 95

Peloe of rice ib. ------------- another way 96

Timbol of rice 97

Petit patties of chicken and ham 98

Patties of lobsters or oysters 99

Forcemeat patties ib.

Pulpton of chicken, rabbits, &c. 100

Fishmeagre pie 101

Raised ham pie, with directions for making a raised crust 102

Raised chicken pie 103

Flat chicken pie (or tourte) ib.

Pigeon pie 104

Raised turkey pie with a tongue 105 ------ macaroni pie 106 ------ beef steak pie ib.

Veal pie 107

Pork pie 108

Eel pie 109

Mutton pie ib.

Sea pie 110

Rissoles ib.

To fry parsley 111

Puffs with chicken, &c. ib.

Wings and legs of fowls with colours 112 ----- larded and glaized 113

Fowl a la Menehout 114

Pulled chicken (or turkey) ib.

Another way 115

Pullet a la Memorancy ib.

Chickens with lemon sauce 116

To make lemon sauce ib.

Fricassee of chickens or rabbits (white) 117

Chickens or turkies with celery 118

Turkies, pullets, or chickens, with oyster sauce ib.

To make white oyster sauce ib.

Chickens with peas 119, 120

Fricassee of chickens or rabbits (brown) ib.

To fry oysters for a dish 121

Directions for poultry, &c. plain boiled ib.

Jugged hare 122

Glaized hare 123

Duck aux naves ib.

A duck with cucumbers 124 ------ a la benshamelle 125

Hashed mutton ib. ------ venison 126 ------ fowls 127 ------ hare, wild fowl, pheasants, or partridges 128

Broiled beef steaks ib.

Beef steak pudding 129

Oyster sauce for beef steaks 130

To dress mutton, lamb, or pork chops in a plain manner ib.

To dress veal cutlets 131

Minced veal for a dish ib. ----------- another way 132

Partridges or pheasants au choux ib. ----------------------- with truffles 133

Turkey with truffles 134

Truffle sauce for turkies, &c. ib.

Turkey with chesnuts 135 ------ with ragout 136

Rabbits with onions ib.

Glaized sweetbreads 137

Matelote of rabbits ib.

Sweetbreads en erison 138

Stewed giblets plain ib. ------ with peas 139

Green truffles for a dish ib.

Rabbits en gallentine for a dish 140

Ham braised ib.

Jerusalem artichokes stewed 141 -------------------- another way 142

Mashed potatoes ib.

Cauliflower with parmezan cheese 143 ----------- a la sauce ib. ----------- a la cream 144

Stewed artichoke bottoms ib.

French beans a la cream for a dish 145

Stewed cardoons ib.

Vegetables in a mould 146

Broiled mushrooms 147

Stewed mushrooms (brown) and (white) 147, 148

Mashed turnips ib.

Potatoes creamed 149

Stewed watercresses ib.

A neat dish of vegetables 150

Vegetable pie ib.

Fried potatoes 151

Fried onions with parmezan cheese 152

Pickle tongue forced 153

Stewed endive ib.

Forced cucumbers 154

To stew peas for a dish ib.

Salad of asparagus 155

Asparagus peas ib. --------- another way 156

Stewed asparagus for sauce 157

Directions for vegetables ib.

Pickled oysters 158

Oyster atlets 159

Scollop oysters 160

Oyster loaves 161

Ragout of sweetbreads (brown) ib. --------------------- (white) 162

Poached eggs with forrel or endive 163

Buttered eggs ib.

Fried eggs, &c. 164

Eggs a la trip 165

Omlet of eggs ib.

Fricassee of tripe 167

Lambs tails and ears ib.

Curried atlets 168

To stew maccaroni 169

Stewed cheese ib.

To prepare a batter for frying different articles, being a sufficient quantity for one dish 170

Fried celery ib. ----- peths 171 ----- sweetbreads ib. ----- artichoke bottoms ib. ----- tripe and onions 172

Hard eggs fried ib.

To dress a lamb's fry 173 --------------------- another way ib.

Puffs with forcemeat of vegetables ib.

Rammequins 174

To dress part of a wild boar 175

Plovers eggs, to be served up different ways 176

Buttered lobsters ib.

Meat cake 177

Collared pig 178

Red beef for slices 179

Savory jelly 180

Aspect of fish 181 ------ of meat or fowl 182

Canopies 183

Salmagundy ib.

Salad of lobster 184

French salad 185

Blancmange ib.

Dutch blancmange 186

Riband blancmange 187

Cleared calves feet jelly ib.

Marbrée jelly 188

Bagnets a l'eau 189

Apple fritters for a dish 190

Golden pippins a la cream 191 -------------- another way 192

Stewed pippins another way 193

Cream for pies 193

Mince meat 194

Compote of oranges 195

Tea cream 196

Virgin cream 197

Coffee cream ib.

Burnt cream ib.

Pastry cream 198

Almond paste ib.

Cheese cakes 199

Almond nuts 200

To make syllabub ib.

Trifle 201

Tarts or tartlets 202

Paste for stringing tartlets ib.

To stew apples for tarts 203

Fried puffs with sweetmeats 204

Pyramid paste ib.

Icing for a cake 206

Cherries in brandy for desserts ib.

To make buns 207

Orgeat ib.

Orange marmalade 208

Raspberry jam 209

Quince jam 210

Green gage jam ib.

Apricot jam 211

Preserved apricots for tarts or desserts ib.

Currant jelly 212

Crisp tart paste 213

Eggs and bacon another way ib.

To make puff paste 214 ------- an almond cake 215

Almond custards 216

Rhubarb tart ib.