Part 18

Item, lautre faczon est de brigandines ou aultrement dit currassines, couvertez et clouées par pièces petittes depuis la poitrine en a bas, ne ny a aultre différance de celle cy aux brigandines que on porte en la guerre, sinon que tout ce que contient la poitrine jusques aux faulx est dune seulle pièce et se lace du costé de la main droite ou par darrière du long de leschine. Item, larrest est espès, grox et matériel au plaisir de celui qui le fait faire.

Item, oudit harnoys de corps y a principallement deux boucles doubles, ou une boucle double et ung aneau limé, ou meilleu de la poitrine, plus hault quatre doiz que le faulx du corps, et lautre du cousté sénestre longues; de lautre ung pou plus haulte: lesquelles deux boucles ou aneau sont pour atacher ledit heaume à la curasse ou brigandine; cest assavoir: la première sert pour metre une tresse ou corroye oudit heaulme à une autre pareille boucle comme celle là, qui est oudit heaume clouée sur la pate dudit heaume davant le plus à lendroit du meillieu du travers que len peult, et out voulentiers lesdictes tresses et couvertures de cueur trois doubles lun sur lautre; lautre seconde boucle ou aneau à main sénestre respont pareillement à une aultre boucle ou aneau qui est oudit heaulme à la sénestre partie sur la pate dudit heaulme; et ces deux boucles ou aneaux sénestres servent espéciallement pour la buffe, cest assavoir que quand le rochet atache (_a touché_) sur le hault de lescuczon ou heaume, ceste tresse ou courroye dessusdicte garde que le heaulme ne se joigne à la joe sénestre par la faczon que ledit jousteur en puisse estre depis.

Item, en ladicte brigandine ou curasse y a en la senestre partie en la poitrine, près du bort du braz senestre, à ung doy près endroit le tour du braz hault, troiz doiz plus bas que la boucle de quoy on lasse ladicte brigandine sur lespaulle, ung crampon de fer du gros dun doy en ront, dont les deux chefz sont rivez par dedens et ladicte pièce au mieulx quil se puet faire, et dedens dudit crampon se passe deux ou trois tours une grosse tresse bonne et forte qui depuis passe parmy la poire, laquelle poire est assise et cache ledit crampon; de laquelle poire la haulteur est vouluntiers dun bon doy, sur laquelle lescu repose, et est ataché par lesdits pertuys dudit escu de la tresse qui est atachée audit crampon, laquelle sort par le meilleu de ladicte poire.

Item, en ladicte curasse y a darrière, ou meilleu du creux de lespaulles, une boucle ou aneau qui sert pour atacher une tresse ou courroie à une autre boucle du heaulme darrière, si que le heaulme ne chée davant, et affin aussi que la veue soit de la haulteur et demeure ferme que le jousteur la vieult.

Item, oultre plus en ladicte curasse y a ung petit aneau plus has que nul des aultres, assis plus vers le faillement des coustez à la main sénestre, auquel len atache dune aultre legière tresse la main de fer, laquelle main de fer est tout dune pièce et arme la main et le braz jusques troiz ou quatre doiz oultre le code.

Item, depuis le code jusques au hault, cache (_cachant_) tout le tour de lespaulle y a ung petit garde braz dune pièce, et se descent jusques sur le code quatre doiz.

Item, à la main droite y a ung petit gantellet lequel se appelle gaignepain; et depuis le gantellet jusques oultre le code, en lieu de avant braz, y a une armeure qui se appelle espaulle de mouton, laquelle est faczonnée large endroit le code, et se espanouist aval, et endroit la ploieure du braz se revient ploier par faczon que, quant len a mis la lance en larrest, laditte ploieure de laditte espaulle de mouton couvre depuis la ploieure du braz ung bon doy en hault.

Item, pour armeure de lespaulle droite y a ung petit garde braz fait à lames, sur lequel y a une rondelle joignant une place, laquelle rondelle se haulse et se besse quant on vieult metre la lance en larrest, et se revient recheoir sur la lance quant elle est oudit arrest, par telle faczon quelle couvre ce que est désarmé en hault dentre la lance et ledit garde braz.

Item, aussi oudit royaulme de France se arment de harnoys de jambes quant ilz joustent.

Item, quant à la faczon des estacheures dudit harnoys par bas, si que il ne sourmonte point encontremont par force des copz, je men passe à le déclairer pour le présent, car il y en a pluseurs faczons. Ne aussi daultre part ne me semble pas si quil se doye divulguer si publicquement.

Item, quant est des lances, les plus convenables raisons de longueur entre grappe et rochet, et aussy celles de quoy on use plus communuement est de treze piez ou de treze piez et demy de long.

Item, et lesdiz rochez sont vouluntiers de ouverture entre chascune des trois pointes de deux doiz et demy ou trois au plus.

Item, lesdictes grappes sont voulentiers plaines de petittes pointes agues (_aiguës_) comme petiz dyamens, de grosseur comme petittes nouzilles, lesquelles pointes se viennent arrester dedens le creux de larrest, lequel creux de larrest plain de bois ou de plomb affin que lesdittes pointes ne puissent fouir, par quoy vient ladicte lance à tenir le cop: en faczon quil fault que elle se rompe en pièces, que len assigne bien ou que le jousteur ploye leschine si fort que bien le sente.

Item, les rondes dessusdictes lances ne couvrent tout autour au plus aller que ung demy pié, et sont vouluntiers de trois doiz despès de bourre feutrée entre deux cuirs, du cousté devers la main par dedens.

Et oultre plus pour faire fin à la manière que len se arme en fait de jouxtes ou pais et contrée que jay cy desous déclaié, ne diray aultre chose pour le présent, sinon que ung bon serviteur dun jousteur doit regarder principallement trois choses sur son maistre avant quil luy donne sa lance; cest assavoir que ledit jousteur ne soit désarmé de nulles de ses armeures par le cop précédent; laultre si est que ledit jousteur ne soit point estourdy ou méhaigné pareillement par ledit cops précédent quil aura eu; le tiers si est que ledit serviteur doit bien regarder sil y a autre prest sur les rengs qui ait sa lance sur faulte, et prest pour jouster contre sondit maistre, affin que sondit maistre ne tienne trop longuement sans faire course la lance en larrest, ou quil ne face sa course en vain et sans que autre vienne à lencontre de luy.

APPENDIX E

EXTRACTS FROM THE ORDINANCES OF THE ARMOURERS OF ANGERS

STATUTS DES ARMURIERS FOURBISSEURS D’ANGERS, 1448

1. Quiconque vouldra estre armurier ou brigandinier, fourbisseur et garnisseur d’espées et de harnois ... faire le pourra....

2. It. les quels maistres desd. mestiers seront tenus besoigner et faire ouvrage de bonnes étoffes, c’est assavoir pour tant que touche les armuriers, ils feront harnois blancs pour hommes d’armes de toute épreuve qui est à dire d’arbalestes à tilloles et à coursel a tout le moins demie espreuve, qui est a entendre d’arbaleste a crocq et traict e’archiers, et pour tant que touche les brigandiniers ils seront tenus pareillement faire brigandines, c’est assavoir les plus pesantes de 26 à 27 livres poix de marc tout au plus, tenant espreuve d’arbaleste a tillolles et marquées de 2 marques, et les moindres de 18 a 20 livres, tel poix que dessusu et d’espreuve d’arbaleste a crocq et traict d’archier, marquées d’une marque. Et seront icelles brigandines d’assier, trampees partout et aussi toutes garnies de cuir entre les lames et la toile, c’est assavoir en chacune rencontre de lames, et ne pourront faire lesd. brigandines de moindre poix de lame....

3. It. et fauldra qe lesd. lames soient limees tout a l’entour a ce que tes ettoffes durent plus largement....

10. Que las marchans et ouvriers desd. mestiers, tant faiseurs d’espées, haches, guysarmes, voulges, dagues et autres habillemens de guerre, seront tenus de faire tout ouvrage bon, loyal, et marchant.

11. It. que tous fourbisseurs et garnisseurs d’espées, tant vielles que neuves, seront tenus de faire fourraux de cuirs de vache et de veau, et les jointures de cuir de vache, la poignee d’icelles nouee de fouer [fouet?] et se aucunes poignées sont faictes de cuir, icelles poignées seront garnies de fisselles par dessouez, led. cuir.

12. Et pareillement les atelles des fourreaux seront neufvs et de bois de fouteau sec....

18. It. que nuls marchans ne maistres forains ne pourront tenir ouvrouers ne boutiques de harnois, brigandines, javelines, lances, picques ne espees, ne choses deppendantes desd. mestiers en ceste ville s’ils ne sont maistres en cette ville.

_Ordonn. des rois_, T. XX, p. 156, etc.

AGREEMENT TO SUPPLY ARMOUR BY FOREIGN ARMOURERS IN BORDEAUX

1375. Conegude cause sie que Guitard de Junquyères, armurer de Bordeu, Lambert Braque, d’Alemaine, armurer de cotes de fer, reconegon e autreyan e en vertat confessan aver pres e recebut de la man de Moss. de Foxis 100 florins d’aur d’Aragon, per los quans lo prometan e s’obligan aver portat a Morlaas 60 bacinetz ab capmalh e 60 cotes de fer o plus si plus poden, boos e sufficientz.

_Arch. des B. Pyrénées_, E, 302, fol. 129.

PERMISSION GRANTED BY LOUIS XI TO FOREIGN ARMOURERS TO PRACTISE IN BORDEAUX FOR TWENTY YEARS

1490. Sachent tous ... que cum le temps passe de 6 ans ou environ Estienne Daussone, Ambroye de Caron, Karoles et Glaudin Bellon natifs du pays de Mylan en Lombardie et Pierre de Sonnay natif de la duché de Savoye, les quels ce fussent associés, acompaignés et adjustez entre eulx l’un avecques l’autre, de faire leur résidence pesonnelle et continuelle a ouvrer et trafiquer du mestier de armurerie et pour l’espace de 20 ans ou environ....

_Min. dec. not. Frapier, Arch. de la Gironde, Rev. d’Aquitaine_, XII, 26.

APPENDIX F

EXPENSES OF THE ROYAL ARMOURIES, _TEMP._ HENRY VIII

Brit. Mus., Cotton., Appendix XXVIII, f. 76

1544

The charges of the king’s own armoury accounting the Master of the Armourie’s fee, the Clerk & Yeoman’s wages and 5 armourers for his Highness’ own person with 1 Gilder 2 Lockyers, 1 Millman and a prentice, in the year.

In primis the Master of the Armouries fee by the year and is paid by the Customer of Cichister’s hands xxxi xi

Item the Clerk and Yeoman both, for their wages 22/- the month apiece and is paid by the Treasurer of the Chamber by the year xxviii xii

Item Erasmus the chief Armourer hath for his wages by the month 26/8 and is paid by the said Treasurer xvii vi viii

Item Old Martyn hath 38/10 the month which is by the year xxv v x

Item Mathew Dethyke hath 24/- the month which is by the year xv xii

Item Hans Clinkedag hath 24/- the month which is by the year xv xii

Item Jasper Kemp hath 24/- the month which is by the year xv xii

Item the Gilders wages by the year xl

Item the 2 Lockyers have 20/- a month apiece which is by the year xxvi

Item 1 Millman 24/- a month which is by the year xv xii

Item for the prentice 6d. for the day ix x

Item for 8 bundles of steel to the said armoury for the whole year 38/- the bundle xv iiii

Item for the costs of the house at £7 0 0 the month which is by the year xxiiii xi ---------------- c. li. s. d.

Sm. iii viii viii iiii

In primis the wages of 12 armourers, 2 locksmiths and 4 prentices to be divided into two shops, every of the Armourers their wages at 24/- the month and the Locksmiths at 20/- a month and every prentice 6d. the day amounteth by the year to clv xii

Item the wages of 2 millmen at 24/- the month xxxi iiii

Item to every of the said shops 4 loads of charcoal a month at 9/- the load xlvi xix

Item for 16 bundles of steel to serve both shops a whole year at 38/- the bundle xxx viii

Item 1 hide of buff leather every month for both shops at 10/- the hide vi x

Item for both shops 1 cowhide a month at 6/8 the hide iiii vi viii

Item one 100 of iron every month for both shops at 6/8 the 100 iiii vi viii

Item in wispe steel for both shops every month 15 4⅛ at 4d. the lb. lxv

Item in wire monthly to both shops 12 lb. at 4d. lb. lii

Item in nails & buckles for both shops monthly 5/- lxv

Item to every of the said Armourers Locksmiths & Millmen for their liveries 4 yards broad cloth at 5/- the yard and 3 yards of carsey at 2/- the yard which amounteth in the year for 12 armourers 2 Locksmiths and 2 Millmen at 26/- for a man xx xvi

So that these 12 armourers 2 Locksmiths 2 Millmen and 4 prentices will make yearly with the said 16 bundles of steel and the other stuff aforesaid 32 harnesses complete, every harness to be rated to the c xx kings Highness at £12 0 0 which amounteth in the iii iiii year towards his Grace’s charge iiii

Item of the said Armourers to be divided into 2 shops as is aforesaid 4 of them shall be taken out of Erasmus’ shop wherein his Grace shall save yearly in their wages and living the sum of lxviii

APPENDIX G

PETITION OF THE ARMOURERS OF LONDON TO QUEEN ELIZABETH

July 13th, 1590 (Lansdowne MS. 63, 5)

To the Right Honourable the Lords & others of the Queens Most honourable Privie Counseil.

In most humble wise shew & beseche your honours your poor suppliants the Armourers of London that whereas we having been at great charges these six or seven years as well in making & providing tools & instruments as in entertaining and keeping of foreign men from beyond the seas to learn & practice the making of armour of all sorts which by the goodness of God we have obtained in such sort that at this time we make not onlie great quantitie But also have farre better armors than that wch cometh from beyond the Seas as is sufficiently proved, and fearing that for lack of sale and utterance of the same we shall not be able to keep & maintain the number of our apprentices & servants which are vy well practised in making of all sorts of armors. Our humble suite therfore to yr honors is that it shall please you to be a means to Her Mtie that we may be appointed to bring into her Mties Store at reasonable prices monthly or quarterly the Armor that we shall make till Her Mties Store shall be furnished with all sorts of Armor in such numbers as Her Mtie shall think good & appoint. And we and our posterity shall not only pry for your Honors but also being strengthened by your Honors we do not doubt to serve this land of Englishe Armor in future years as well as it is of Englishe Calyvers and muskets wch within this thirtie years or thereabouts was servd altogether with Outlandish peces with no money in respect of those wch are now made in this land, And we are the more bould, to make this our sute to your Honors because it is not a particular Comoditie to us but a benefit to the whole land as may be proved by these reasons viz:

1. Armour made in this land being not good, the makers may be punished by the laws provided for the same.

2. It is a means to set a great number of Her Majesty’s subjects on work in this land, which now setteth a great number of foreigners on work in other lands.

3. It will furnish the land with skillfull men to make and fit armour to men’s bodies in far better order than it hath been heretofore.

4. We shall be provided within this land of good armour, what restrayntments or quarrels so ever be in other lands, whereas hertofore we have been beholding to other countries for very bad armour.

5. We shall be free from all those dangers that may ensue by the number of bad and insufficient armour which are brought into this land by unskilfull men that know not what they buy and sell it again to them that know not where to have better for their money although they know it to be very bad.

Her Majesties armories at this parte are very weakly furnished and that wch remaynes is neither good in substance nor yet in fashion. So as if it might stande in wth yor. LL. good liking it is very needfull the same should be supplied wth better choise.

The armor that is here made is accompted far better than that wch cometh from beyond the Seas and would well servi for he Mties store So as it might be delivered in good tyme wch the Armorers will undertake to prove but the armor wch they make is wholly blacke, so that unless they will undertake to serve white wth al it will not be so serviceable. The proportion that shall be delivered I refer to yor ll. consideracion theire offer is to deliver to the number of eight thousand wth in fyve yeres and so after a further proporcion it so shall seem good to yor LL. Theire severll prices are hereunder written wch is as lowe as can bring it unto.

Launce armor compleat iii li vi s. viii d. Corslets compleate xxx s. Curate of proofe wth poldrons xl s. Ordinary curate wth poldrons xxvi s. viii d. Target of proofe xxx s. Murrions iii s. iiii d. Burgonetts iiii s.

Endorsed the humble petition of the Armorers of London.

It is signed by RICHARD HARFORD. JOHN SEWELL. RICHARD WOODE RW. WM. PICKERING. 13 July 1590. Lee to inform.

APPENDIX H

UNDERTAKING OF THE ARMOURERS’ COMPANY OF LONDON TO MAKE CERTAIN ARMOURS EVERY SIX MONTHS AND THE PRICES OF THE SAME

From records of the Company dated 17th March, 1618

The Privy Council on the 15th of March, 1618, made inquiry:--

“Who be the ingrossers of Plate to make Armor in London, and secondly what is the reason of the scarcity of Armor, and how it may be remedied?”

The Company agreed to the following answer being sent:--

“That concerning the first we know no ingrossers of such Plate and we have called to our Hall all the workmen of Armor in London and we find them very few, for that in regard of the long peace which, God be thanked, we have had, they have settled themselves to other trades, not having imployment for making of Armor, nor the means to utter the same if they should make it, for the remedy of which scarcity, if it please the Privy Council to take order that the Armorers’ work to be by them made in London, may be taken and paid for at every six months’ end. They will undertake, if continually employed, to use their best means for provision of stuff to make armor in every six months to furnish One hundred Lance Armor, Two hundred Light Horsemen’s Armor, and Two hundred Footmen’s Armor at such rates and prices as followeth.”

The Lance Armor, containing Breast, Back, Gorget, Close Head piece, Poulderons and vambraces, Gushes, and one Gauntlett, to colored Russet, at the price of £4 0 0

The Light Horseman’s Armor being Breast, Back, Gorgett a barred Head piece, Pouldrons, and an Elbowe Gauntlett, to be Russet, at the price of £2 10 0

The Footman’s Armor, containing Breast, Back, Gorgett, head piece, and laces, with iron joints, to be colored russet, at the price of £1 10 0

APPENDIX I

PROCLAMATION AGAINST EXCESSIVE USE OF GOLD AND SILVER FOLIATE, WHICH IS TO BE CONFINED TO ARMOUR AND ENSIGNS OF HONOUR

S.P.D. Jac. I, cv, February 4th, 1618. Procl. Collec. 65

... and furthermore the better to keepe the gold and silver of this kingedome not onely within the Realme from being exported, but that it may also bee continued in moneys and coyne, for the use and commerce of his Majestie and his loving subjects and not turned into any dead masse of Plate nor exhausted and consumed in vanities of Building and pompous use of Gold and Silver Foliate which have beene in the Reignes of divers kings of this Realme ... and the better to prevent the unnecessary and excessive waste of Gold and Silver Foliate within this realeme; His Majestie doth likewise hereby prohibit and forbid That no Gold or Silver Foliate shall be from henceforth wrought, used or imployed in any Building, Seeling, Waniscot, Bedsteds, Chayres, Stooles, Coaches or any other ornaments whatsoever, Except it be Armour or Weapons or in Armes and Ensignes of Honour at Funerals.

Feb. 4, 1618.

APPENDIX J

ERECTION OF PLATING-MILLS AT ERITH BY CAPT. JOHN MARTIN

1624

State Papers Domestic, Jac. I, Vol. CLXXX, 71

King Henry the eight being resolved to have his armorye alwayes stronge and richly furnished wt thirtie or fowertie thousand armes to be in Rediness to serve all the necessities of th times (how suddaine so evr) caused a batterie mill to be built at Detford nere Grenew^{ch} for the batteringe of plaetes for all sorts of armes but dyed before the bsiness was perfected.

In the time of Queen Elizabeth Captain John Martin and myself resolvinge on endeavors to the furtheringe so good a worke resolved y^t I should go to Inspurge wch is uppon the Germaine Alpes and into Lukland likewise to bring over into England seven or eight plaeters, the beste that might be found (wch was donne to ow^r very great chardges) and i[=m] ediately ther upp[=o] fallinge to worke in a batterie mill wch we likewise erected nere unto Erith in Kent and in y^t place wrought as many plates of all sorts as served very nere for twentie thousand armors and targets never having the misterie of plaeting mills in England before. All wch plaeters formerly brought over are now dead save one, and he of so cunninge and obstinate a disposition that he would nev^r yet be brought to teach any Englishman the true misterie of plaeting unto this day.

The beste plaetes that have been formerly knowen to be in Christendome have been made of Inspurg stuff wch place hath continually served Milan Naples and other nations, and latelie England also, wch place beinge so remote and in the Emperor his owne countrie, it is not possible that wth any conveniencey any stronge plaetes can be now bought from thence as formerly we have had. But if his Ma^{tie} will be plesed to have his armorie continually furnished wth thirtie or fortie thousand armes or more to what number he shall be beste plesid as hath been the course and resolution of his Roiall pdecessors, y^t may now be done wth Englishe Irone, by a misterie yet unknown, either to smolten plaetes or armour and to be of such strength and lightnes, for the ease and pservation of the life of the souldier as none can be better found in any nation in Christendome from the pistole to the musket.

It hath been observed in all antient histories and in the rule of our later moderne wars, that the goodness strength and lightness of armes hath been so great an incoradgement unto the souldier as hath made him stand faste in the time of great and strong chardges of the enemye, and to give valiant and couradgeous chardges, and assaults when they have been assured of the strength and goodness of theyre armes.

The raetes for Plaetes and armors exactly examined for the prices the strength and lightness considered are thus reduced.