Part 21

Entering at the south end of the hill a steep and narrow street leads straight up to the top at the north end, where stands the old castle of the Grimaldis (Fig. 209). This is evidently an ancient structure, having the bold machicolated parapet of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. But it has been greatly altered in the seventeenth century, when large windows have been opened in the walls, the machicolations being in numerous places cut away to receive them (Fig. 210); while at the entrance front a wide outer staircase with double ramp and marble balustrade has been introduced leading up to a principal entrance doorway on the first floor. From this access is obtained to a small inner courtyard surrounded with Renaissance columns forming a staircase and corridor above of two storys in height, which, adorned as it is with beautiful plants by the present proprietor, has a peculiarly pleasing effect. Some of the apartments are finely decorated. That of the “Belle Cheminée” has a sculptured marble fireplace and a ceiling painted with the fall of Phaeton, said to be by Carlowe. From the platform lying to the north of the château a magnificent view is obtained to the northward up the valley of the Malvan towards St Paul and Vence, and the lofty precipices of St Jeannot beyond, backed to the right with the snowy ridges of the distant Alps.

The nearest place of prominence from Cagnes is the Castle of VILLENEUVE-LOUBET--about two miles to the north-west. This castle has been modernised and nearly rebuilt, but enough of the original work remains to render a visit very interesting. On nearing it, the edifice (Fig. 211) is seen to consist of a central castle strengthened with four towers at the angles, and surmounted by a lofty, quaint, and Moorish-looking watch-tower, the whole being enclosed with a strong wall of enceinte, defended with round towers at the angles (Fig. 212), provided with large port-holes for guns, and separated from the surrounding county by a deep ditch. The entrance gateway consists of an iron grating, guarded by two round towers, and furnished with a drawbridge over the moat. The round towers and walls of enceinte are by no means modern; they probably belong to the sixteenth century, but they have been shorn of their proud battlements, and thus present a very squat and subdued appearance.

The central castle is in part much more ancient, but also for the most part greatly altered and modernised. The

original plan was probably not dissimilar to the existing one, comprising a central courtyard with buildings surrounding it. The exterior walls are modern, but those of the interior of the courtyard are partly ancient, although altered. They are built with the rough-faced ashlar of the thirteenth century, and contain some decayed coats of arms on which may still be traced the lances of the Villeneuves and the star of Les Baux. Externally, the east face (Fig. 212) presents two noteworthy features in the apse of the chapel and the tall watch-tower. The chapel, although now converted into apartments, still retains the outlines and buttresses of an apse which seems to belong to the fifteenth century. The watch-tower is one of the most perfect examples of those characteristic features of the Maritime Alps. It is of the same nature as the keep towers we have met with at Cannes, Grasse, and Antibes, having the same rough ashlar facing, but instead of being square on plan like them, it has the eastern side projected in the form of a sharp angle (like the tower of La Trinité in the same locality, to be described immediately, and of which a plan is given). The access to the top is by a narrow wheel-stair on the side next the quadrangle. The important point about the tower is that it preserves its battlemented top almost unaltered. It is carried up to the height of about 90 feet, and near the summit has several courses of a dark-coloured stone, which give it a Moorish or Italian character. These may at one time have been enriched with carving, of which one fancies some traces may still be observed, but they are so completely weather-worn that no forms can be distinguished. The level platform on the top is defended with a simple crenellated parapet without machicolations. From this lofty station a wide outlook could be kept over sea and land.

This castle and tower belonged in the thirteenth century to Romée de Villeneuve, the chief of that powerful family and the guardian of Beatrix, daughter of Raymond Béranger IV., the last of the Counts of Provence of that line. It was through the marriage with the heiress Beatrix that Charles of Anjou, the brother of St Louis, succeeded to the title and estates of the Count of Provence. The estate was sold at a later period to the Lascares of Ventimiglia, and is now the property of the Count of la Panisse-Pacy. In 1538 this castle entertained an illustrious guest in the person of Francis I., who stayed here while Pope Paul III. carried on negotiations between him and Charles V. The latter had landed at Villefranche in order to meet the French king; but so great was the antipathy and distrust of the two monarchs for each other, that they could not be brought to encounter a personal interview. These negotiations ended in the signature, by Francis in the Castle of Villeneuve-Loubet, of the Treaty of Nice (_See_ “The Maritime Alps and their Sea Board.”)

From the top of Romée de Villeneuve’s tower another similar tower is observed rising above the pine wood about a mile up the valley to the north-west. To reach it we descend from the castle so as to gain the bridge across the Loup, and in doing so the steep streets of the old town of Villeneuve, terraced in tiers on the slope of the

hill, are traversed, and the old church on its fine platform is passed on the left. The road up the valley is easy and agreeable, but the ascent of the conical hill, the summit of which is crowned with the tower of LA TRINITÉ, is no light work. From a distance this tower looks like a lofty pedestal erected to support the colossal statue of the Virgin and child which now surmounts it. But on closer inspection it is found to be a remarkable example of a keep, defended with that accumulation of obstacles with which the old builders used to block up the access to their strongholds. After the steep hillside has been climbed, one finds himself at the base of the pointed rock on which the keep is set (Fig. 213). From here a sloping path leads up to the ruins of the chapel, of which only the vestiges of wall shewn in the sketch (Fig. 214), mingled with the scattered fragments of the font and other relics, now remain.

The ruins of a strong gateway in the outer walls which closed the access are passed just before reaching the chapel, and a lower bastioned terrace is continued round the northern part of the eminence at this level.

From the chapel, when one turns his eyes upwards to the tower (as in Fig. 214), he discovers such a series of winding stairs interrupted at frequent intervals with walls and gateways as must certainly have rendered a hostile approach in that direction impracticable, while perpendicular rocks and lofty walls made the access equally hopeless on the other sides. Besides this, on the side next the hill, which was perhaps the least invulnerable point, stands the keep (Fig. 215), strengthened with a projecting beak of similar form to that of the tower of Romée de Villeneuve. The lower story is original, and contained the doorway at the level of the top of the rock. This inaccessible point, on which there is a small platform, was probably reached by a rude stair cut in the rock (as indicated on the plan) and was defended with outworks, the approach to which was overlooked from the upper platform. The doorway, it will be observed, is placed on the opposite side of the tower from the platform, at a point where the foothold is narrow, and the door therefore all the more secure.

The upper portion of the tower dates from 1863, when, as the following inscription, which is carved on a marble slab let into the wall, announces, the old tower was reconstructed by the Comte and Comtesse de la Panisse-Pacy, and dedicated to the blessed Virgin:--

HOC ANTIQUUM CASTELLUM VULGO DICTUM LA TRINITÉ HENRICUS DE MARCK TRIPOLI COMES DE PANISSE-PASSIS ET MARIA THERESA DE ROBIN DE BARBENTANE EJUS UXOR INSTAURAVERUNT BEATÆQUE MARIAE VIRGINI IMMACULATAE TESTIMONIUM FIDEI AC PIETATIS DEDICAVERUNT ANNO DOMINI MDCCCLXIII.

The tower alone has been restored in the manner shewn by the sketches; all the other portions remain undisturbed in their ruins. The rooms in the tower are only 10 ft. 6 in. long by 7 ft. wide, and there is no indication of any other habitation connected with the fort.

The place has all the appearance of a typical robber’s stronghold, and, as James V. said of a similar Scottish keep, “He that built it was a thief in his heart.” According to tradition, La Trinité was originally a keep of the Templars. That order had extensive possessions in this part of Provence, and they may have erected this tower as a post for watching and giving notice of the approach of an enemy. After the suppression of the order La Trinité passed into the possession of the Mathurins or Redfriars. They were also called the Order of the Trinity, and their special duty was to succour prisoners. The name of the tower may possibly have been derived from them. The chapel is 29 ft. long by 14 ft. wide, and the raised step at the east end is still traceable. The

walls have been about 8 ft. 6 in. high to the plain ovalo forming the string course from which sprung the semi-circular barrel vault of the roof. From the upper platform of the fortress a splendid view is obtained (Fig. 215), especially to the northwards, comprising St Paul-du-Var in the middle distance, and Vence backed by the towering precipices of St Jeannet. Beneath these stood the powerful Commandery of the Templars at St Martin (to be afterwards described), from which a signal at their watch-tower of La Trinité would be easily observed.

From La Trinité a rough footpath leads across the pine-clad hills to BIOT, a distance of about two and a half miles as the crow flies, but about an hour’s walk over the heath-covered heights, and through the deep ravines which have to be traversed. Some extensive quarries are passed on the way at Les Aspres. After a hot tramp over these rocky and barren hills, it is refreshing to reach the fertile and cultivated valley of the Brague with its steep and terraced banks richly clad with olive and orange trees. A very steep descent leads to the bottom of the valley, from which the walls and towers of Biot are seen rising on the crest of the hill above (Fig. 216). This is one of the most primitive old towns in the district. A very circuitous post road has now been constructed up to it, but the old accesses by long flights of wide steps, on which the peasants and their mules are constantly ascending and descending, are still preserved, and are in their way amongst the most picturesque streets in the Riviera. Climbing patiently up flight after flight, and winding round the narrow streets, we at length reach the highest point, on which stands the church. The following inscription is carved in the interior wall:--“Hanc Ecclesiam consecravit Illus, primus et reveredismus Inxpo P.D.D. Isnædus D. Grassa Episcopus Grassen,

1472 [Illustration: round symbol] DIE 19.

JANU.”

thus shewing that the church was consecrated by the bishop of Grasse at the above date. Some of the work corresponds with that period, _e.g._, the doorway in the west end (Fig. 217). But the south doorway (Fig. 217) has an earlier character. The exterior is all altered, and the interior has also been modernised in a very extraordinary manner, but some traces of the original building are still observable. Biot belonged to the Templars in 1247, and afterwards to the knights of Malta. In 1470 the bishop of Grasse brought hither forty-eight Genoese families, probably to help to re-people the town after the plague or some destructive assault of the Corsairs. This was evidently the occasion on which the bishop re-consecrated the church, which then no doubt required to

be to a great extent rebuilt. But some of it bears the signs of having been erected at an earlier date by the Templars. The plan (Fig. 218) is very unusual. A simple oblong divided into three aisles with three terminal apses such as we see here is common enough, but the plain round columns which separated the nave and aisles are very uncommon. The bases and caps are of a simple and early character (Fig. 219). The pillars are too light to have been intended to carry vaulting, and the original church would thus seem to have had a row of plain arches on each side, with perhaps a clerestory wall above supporting a wooden roof. The building would thus have originally the characteristics of a primitive basilica, somewhat like San Miniato at Florence (Fig. 33, p. 101). But this design has now been ingeniously altered and destroyed, and the whole character of the interior degraded from being one of the most interesting churches of Provence into a commonplace Renaissance chapel. By means of stucco the old round pillars have been converted on the side next the nave into flat

pilasters which are carried up and finished with Ionic caps, supporting an entablature which runs along each side of the church above the old arches. A groined vault in plaster springing from the top of the cornice is

thrown across the nave. The old pillars with their caps and bases have, however, been allowed to remain unchanged on the side next the aisles, where their archaic forms contrast strikingly with the modern plaster work on the other side. An attempt has been made to Italianise the apse also, but the pilasters and entablature fit lamely into the old apse. A wide flight of steps at the west end leads _down_ from the doorway into the church, and has a rather peculiar effect. This no doubt arose from the irregularity of the site. To the west of the church lies the public _place_, surrounded with plain houses, all arcaded on the ground floor, and presenting a pleasing example of that picturesque feature of the towns of the Riviera. A walk of about three miles through the olive gardens of the valley of the Brague leads to the Antibes Railway station. Biot may of course be visited directly from the latter; there is a good carriage road.

One of the most delightful excursions from Cagnes is that to ST PAUL-DU-VAR, and VENCE, two of the most interesting old towns of the Riviera. The distance to St Paul is from three to four miles, and to Vence two to three miles further. This may be accomplished either by driving or on foot. A carriage may be hired near the Cagnes Railway Station. The route in driving goes by a rather circuituous road round the west side of the valley of the Malvan, passing within a short distance of the castle of Villeneuve-Loubet. The most direct road is either along the base of the hill on which Cagnes stands, or through the town. For the pedestrian the latter is by far the most agreeable. Starting from the terrace of the old castle (already described), a rough footpath is followed along the ridge which separates the valley of the Malvan from that of the Cagne, and affords a delightful prospect of both. The rich colour of the russet leaves of the forest trees, mingled with the dark green of the pines and the grey tint of the olives, gives a special charm to the walk. Looking northwards the towns of La Gaude and St Jeannet stand out prominently on their rocky heights against the lofty and precipitous mountains immediately behind them; while in the distance the white peaks of the Maritime Alps close the valley of the Var. To the south there is a splendid view of Cagnes with the Mediterranean on the horizon. After half an hour’s walk the footpath joins the main road

opposite St Paul, and near the point where the mule path branches off to descend to the Malvan, before again ascending by a rough and steep track to the town. From the main road a fine view is obtained of St Paul (Fig. 220), surrounded with its massive walls, and standing on a detached promontory, with steep terraced slopes descending to the river. Other pleasing and varied prospects of the town and valley occur at intervals amongst the ancient olives in following the above footpath (Fig. 221). About half way up the path on the side next the town an outwork on a detached peak is passed, then a ruined fortification bars the road, and finally the ancient gateway and barbican, and the cemetery just outside the walls, are reached, and the main street of the town, which is but a narrow lane, is before us. The architectural interest of the place is at once apparent. On every hand are evidences of genuine ancient and

unaltered work. The doorways (Fig. 222) are of old and varied forms, almost every one having a panelled lintel, supported by corbels, many of the former containing carved shields and ornaments, and the latter being enriched with leaves and scrolls. Most of these doorways are of the beginning of the sixteenth century, and indicate early Renaissance work. Others again are carved and moulded with the double curvature of the late Gothic style, and a few shew marks of a simpler and earlier design (Figs. 223 and 224). The windows also contain many specimens of Gothic shafts and mullions, but they are much more altered than the doorways. Even the ancient woodwork of the latter is in many instances retained, and the unpainted oak or walnut give, in addition to the picturesque and fanciful designs, a rich and antique character. One of the most interesting points connected with the main, and almost the only street in the town, is the preservation of its

ancient shops. At almost every step one meets with the wide arch which contained both the door and window of the shop, the former being cut down to the door step, while the latter had the stonework built so as to form a sill about 2 feet high, on which the goods were exhibited. These sills are sometimes projected and moulded on the edge. At St Paul many of the shop fronts are now built up, but several are still in use (Fig. 223), and when piled up with their complex store of vegetables and fruits, mixed with the quaint and richly coloured jars of the country, present very tempting subjects for the artist. The street floor

of the houses adjoining the north gateway (Fig. 226) is amongst the oldest and least altered examples. Numerous narrow lanes branch off the main street and descend by steps and arcades to the roads which run round the walls. In other cases arches are thrown across the street, and picturesque effects are thus produced (Figs. 225 and 227). Most of the buildings in the main street date from the time of Francis I. After the destructive invasion of Provence by Charles V., Francis found that his frontier in this quarter was insufficiently protected, and employed an engineer from Arles called Mandon to inspect the locality and fix on the best site for a fortress. Mandon chose the isolated hill on which stood the ancient town of St Paul as the best suited for this purpose; and it was accordingly fortified and surrounded with the walls and bastions which still subsist almost in their entirety. St Paul was thus raised into a place of some importance and security, and became the residence of a governor and several families of distinction. This no doubt led to the improvement of the architecture of which we have seen so many examples. Of the town houses of the governor and nobility some specimens still remain--one well preserved mansion of a somewhat later period is seen in sketch, Fig 225, and relics of others are also to be found, though in a sadly degraded and dilapidated state.

In the Maison Suraire (formerly Du Port), remains of ancient magnificence still exist in two richly decorated mantelpieces, of which Fig. 228 is one.

The original staircase of this house is also still in use; its richly-carved and ornamental balustrade of marble (Fig. 229) forming a strange contrast with its present humble position as an access to peasants’ houses. The mode of junction of the pedestals at the turn of the staircase by placing a boldly cut lion rampant between them is novel and effective.

This house stands in the very diminutive and only little “place” in the town, where also is the fountain, and whence branches off the way to the church, which stands on the highest point of the site. The main street, and all the side alleys, are but continuations of the mule paths of the country, interrupted here and there with steps, and all too narrow to admit a cart or carriage of any kind. They are thus often so completely swept by the loads of firewood and brushwood on the mules’ backs, that passengers have to seek shelter in the recesses of the doorways. The walks round the walls are in part wider, and the small gardens of the houses sloping down to them, with the dark foliage and golden fruit of their orange groves, form a fine foreground to the lovely prospects visible in every direction.

The gateway (Fig. 230) at the entrance to the town from the north has an older character than the fortifications of Mandon. This gateway seems to have formed the ancient entrance through a square tower placed for defence on the neck of land which joins the promontory to the mainland. It presents the same character as the square gate towers of Avignon, having a plain pointed archway and portcullis groove on the exterior, defended by a machicolated parapet above, the interior of the tower being left open towards the town, so that, if captured, it could not be turned to account against it (_see_ Fig. 226).

This tower has been incorporated by Mandon in his works, and is strengthened externally by a bastion with another portcullis, and a narrow passage commanded from above.