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THE ARCHITECTURE

OF

PROVENCE AND THE RIVIERA

_Printed by George Waterston & Sons_

FOR

DAVID DOUGLAS, EDINBURGH.

LONDON HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. CAMBRIDGE MACMILLAN AND BOWES. GLASGOW JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS.

THE ARCHITECTURE OF

PROVENCE

AND

THE RIVIERA

BY

DAVID MACGIBBON

AUTHOR OF “THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND.”

EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS

1888.

[_All rights reserved._]

PREFACE.

Having been called on, a few years ago, to make frequent journeys between this country and the Riviera, the author was greatly impressed with the extraordinary variety and abundance of the ancient architectural monuments of Provence. This country was found to contain not only special styles of Mediæval Art peculiar to itself, but likewise an epitome of all the styles which have prevailed in Southern Europe from the time of the Romans. It proved to be especially prolific in examples of Roman Art from the age of Augustus till the fall of the Empire. It also comprises a valuable series of buildings illustrative of the transition from Classic to Mediæval times. These are succeeded by a rich and florid development of Romanesque, accompanied by a plain style which existed parallel with it--both being peculiar to this locality. The remains of the Castellated Architecture are also especially grand and well preserved; while the picturesque towns, monasteries, and other structures of the Riviera have a peculiar charm and attraction of their own.

These Architectural treasures being comparatively unknown, it is believed that a popular work bringing their leading features into notice will be not unacceptable to all lovers of architecture as well as to the numerous visitors to the south of France, and may be of use in directing attention to a most interesting department which has hitherto been to a great extent overlooked.

A proper history of Provence has unfortunately not yet been written. A short account, derived from various sources, of the state of the country from early times and during the Middle Ages is therefore prefixed to the description of the Monuments, so as to explain the historical conditions under which the Architecture of Provence was developed, and to show its connection with that of other countries and times.

The author has to acknowledge the valuable aid he has received from the excellent notes on the Architecture of the country by Prosper Mérimée in his “Voyage dans les Midi de la France” (1835),--a work which, even at the early date of its publication, anticipated many of the results more recently arrived at.

The comprehensive and invaluable “Dictionnaire Raisonné” of Viollet-le-Duc has also been of much service, and is frequently referred to.

Most of the illustrations are from drawings and measurements made by the author on the spot, and these generally bear his initials. But where thought advisable for fuller illustration some of the drawings are taken from photographs; from Henry Révoil’s beautiful work on the “Architecture Romane du Midi de la France” (1873); and a few from other sources as mentioned in the text.

Special thanks are due to Professor Baldwin Brown for his kindness in revising the proof sheets, and for the valuable suggestions he has made.

EDINBURGH, _October 1888_.

ERRATA.

Page vi. line 11 from bottom, _for_ “les” _read_ “le” “ 5, “ 10 “ top, “ “two thousand” “ “three thousand.” “ 27, “ 1 “ “ no ( “ 36, “ 7 “ bottom, _for_ “Carée” “ “Carrée.” “ 93, “ 12 “ “ “ “Dioeletian” “ “Diocletian.” “ 126, “ 4 “ “ “ “length” “ “width.” “ 128, Title, Fig. 41, “ “FETES” “ “TETES.” “ 147, line 7 from bottom, “ “apartmnts” “ “apartments.” “ 194, Title of Fig. 97, “ “ST CÉSAIRE” “ “ST TROPHIME.” “ 211, “ 20 from top, “ “dypticks” “ “dyptichs.” “ 212, “ 14 “ bottom, “ “Jocobi” “ “Jacobi.” “ 221, “ 6 “ top, “ “bonnded” “ “bounded.” “ 462, “ 12 “ bottom, “ “shews” “ “shew.”

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

I. INTRODUCTORY.

The Architecture of South of France comparatively little known, 1; contrast of North and South in climate, buildings, &c., 3; Provence a very ancient and independent State, 4; and scene of important historical events, 5.

II. EARLY HISTORY OF PROVENCE, AND ITS CONDITION DURING THE MIDDLE AGES.

Colonised by Phœnicians, 1100 B.C.--Greek culture introduced, 7; occupied by the Romans about 100 B.C., 8; became their favourite province, 9; overrun by Visigoths in fourth century, 10; Roman and Greek colonies were in cities, and the revived government also municipal, 11; the Church the chief instrument of organised government, 12; monasteries established, 13; anarchic condition from fifth to eighth century, 14; invasion of Saracens, 15; attempt to establish a “Holy Roman Empire,” 16; revival under Charlemagne, 18; growth of the monasteries, Cluny, 20; Citeaux, 22; the Crusades, 23; effects of the above on Architecture, 24.

III. POLITICAL HISTORY OF PROVENCE.

Fall of the Empire in fifth century. Kings of Provence from sixth to tenth century, 26; Kingdom of Arles, 27; Raymond Béranger becomes Count of Provence, 11, 12; independence of cities attacked, 27; Albigensian crusade, 28; in 1245 Charles of Anjou becomes Count of Provence, 29; Queen Joan; 1480, King René dies and Provence becomes part of France, 30.

IV. DESCRIPTION OF CLASSIC BUILDINGS.

The Architecture of Provence naturally divided into a Classic and a Mediæval period--which best considered separately, 32; the Roman period, 33; Paris, Autun, capricious preservation of Classic monuments, 34; Lyons, Vienne, 35; Temple of Augustus and Livia, remains of Forum, 37; the pyramid, 38; Vienne restored, 39; Orange, 40; the theatre, 42; triumphal arch, 45; other triumphal arches at Cavaillon, 47; St Remy, 48; mausoleum at St Remy, 50; Arles, history, 51; amphitheatre, 52; mode of protecting spectators in ditto, 54; obelisk, Place d’Hommes, Tour de la Trouille, 56; Alyscamps, 57; sculpture in museum, 59; Nimes, history, 64; amphitheatre, 65; Maison Carrée, 68; statue of Venus, 71; Nymphæum, 72; Tour Magne, 73; Roman gates, 74; Pont du Gard, 76; the “Camargue” and the “Crau,” 77; St Chamas, Roman bridge at, 77; Vernégue, temple at, 78; paucity of classic remains at Marseilles and Narbonne, 79; Pomponiana, 80; Le Luc, 80; Fréjus, history, 80; gate of Gaul, amphitheatre, theatre, aqueduct, 82; Via Aurelia, 83; aqueduct of Clausonne, Antibes, Vence, 84; Cemenelum, 86; Turbia, 87.

V. TRANSITION PERIOD.

Transition from Classic to Mediæval Architecture, 90; principles of Greco-Italian design, trabeate as opposed to the arch, 91; gradual introduction and development of the latter, 92; trabeate features dropped, 93; early Christian architecture a continuation of that of Rome, 94; the basilica, 95; the baptistery, 96; San Vitale, 96; Byzantine edifices, the dome, 97; St Mark’s, Syrian churches, 98; early churches in the West--Romanesque varieties, 99; attempts to vault--San Miniato, 100; Notre Dame du Pré, Le Mans; form of vaulting in Provence, 102; in Aquitaine, 103; St Front, Perigueux, 104; the dome and single nave characteristic of the South, 105; varieties of style, influence of Roman remains, 105; powerful in Provence, 106; shewn in campaniles, baptisteries, and especially sculpture, 107; supposed Byzantine influence--the pointed arch, 107; used for simplicity of construction, 108; Burgundian style, imitative of nature, 109; the severe style of the Cistertians, 110; the second style of Provençal art; the two periods described, 111; growth of lay element, 112; traditional ecclesiastical forms abandoned and new natural forms adopted, 113; Northern Gothic developed, 114; Gothic applicable to all requirements, 115; domestic and castellated Architecture, 116; origin and growth of the latter, 117; peculiarities in the South, 118; recapitulation, 119; place of Provençal Architecture, 120.

VI. DESCRIPTION OF MEDIÆVAL BUILDINGS.

Description of Mediæval buildings--Lyons, the Ainay, 121; the cathedral, 122; Vienne, St André-le-Bas, and St Pierre, 124; cathedral, 126; ancient houses, 127; Valence, Maison des Fêtes, 127; castle of Crussol, monastery of Cruas, 128; church of Cruas, 132; Montélimar, Viviers--commencement of Provençal examples, St Paul-trois-châteaux, 134; St Restitut, Pont St Esprit, 136; Courthézon, Avignon, 137; history, 138; Notre Dame des Doms, 139; imitation of Roman work, 141; palace of the Popes, 143; history, 144; description of, 145; walls of town, 148; gates, 151; Pont St Bénezet, 151; tower of Villeneuve, 154; castle of St André, 155; gatehouse, 156; curtains, 161; guard rooms on walls, 162; church of Villeneuve, 163; churches of Avignon, the Beffroi, abbey of St Ruf, Priory of St Veran, 164; Vaison, 165; Carpentras, Venasque, Pernes, Le Thor, Cavaillon, 167; Le clocher de Molléges, 168; Tarascon, history, Ste Marthe, 168; castle, 170; houses, gateway, 172; Beaucaire castle, 173; triangular keep, 176; oratory, 178; Les Baux, 179; the town--the bas-reliefs, 180; account of the family, 181; St Gabriel, 182; Arles, St Trophime, 183; includes examples of all periods of Provençal Architecture--the Cistertian nave, 184; the west portal, 187; the cloisters, 188; the Alyscamps, St Honorat, 191; prosperity of Arles after union to France--Renaissance palaces, 192; Mont-Majour, Hermitage, 194; church, 196; cloister, 199; chapel of Ste Croix, 199; the keep, 203; St Gilles, Abbey church, 204; interrupted by Albigensian crusade, 205; portal, 206; sources of Provençal art, 210; Les Saintes Maries, 212; Marseilles, St Victor, 213; Aix-en-Provence, St Sauveur, 217; cloisters, 219; “Les Villes Mortes du Golfe de Lyon,” 220; Montpellier, Maguelonne, 222; Béziers, 222; St Nazaire, 224; Fountain, 227; house in town, 228; Puisalicon, St Pierre de Reddes, St Martin de Londres, 229; Narbonne, history, 230; cathedral, 231; its fortifications, 232; Archbishop’s palace, 233; the keep, 234; St Paul, the Lagunes, the Pyrenees, Perpignan, 235; the castellet, cathedral, 236; citadel, &c., Elne, 239; cathedral, 240; the unfinished chevet, the campanile, 241; the cloisters, 244; Carcassonne, 244; history, 245; towers of the Visigoths, 246; the porte Narbonnaise--the barbican and its defences, 252; the walls and towers, 254; St Nazaire, 257; Aigues Mortes, 260; Canal, 261; walls and gateways, 264; Porte de Nimes, 266; Tour de Constance, 268; Tour Carbonnière, 269.

Eastwards from Marseilles--Toulon, 270; Hyères, 271; castle, 272; St Paul, 273; examples of Cistertian style, 274; Cannet, 275; abbey of Thoronet, 276; the cloisters, 278; remarkable details, 280; chapter house, 281; St Maximin, 282; Fréjus, cathedral and Bishop’s palace, 281; fortified, 289; baptistery, 291; “Pantheon” at Riez, 293; the cloisters, Fréjus, 296; Brass lamp, 298; doorways in town, 299; district of Les Maures, how to visit, 300; St Tropez, fish market, 301; Grimaud, castle, 302; La Garde Freinet, St Raphaël, the Esterelle mountains, 304; Napoule, 305; St Peyré, Mont St Cassien, 307; Cannes, 308; history, Tour du Chevalier, 310; St Anne, 314; Notre Dame d’Espérance, 317; Iles de Lérins, 319; St Honorat, cloisters, 320; Ste Trinité, 320; St Sauveur, 323; castle of St Honorat, 324; style of lower cloister, 330; style of upper cloister, 334; additions, 340; Ste Marguérite, 343; Vallauris, 344; Le Cannet, 347; Mougins, Notre Dame des Vie, 348; Auribeau, 350; Grasse, 351; cathedral, 353; keep tower, 354; Renaissance, 357; l’Oratoire, 357; St Césaire, 359; château de Tournon, 363; Montauroux and Callian, 364; Le Bar, 366; Gourdon, 367; Tourettes, 369; Antibes, 371; two keep towers, 373; Cagnes, castle, 376; castle of Villeneuve-Loubet, 378; history, 381; tower of La Trinité, 382; Biot, 387; St Paul-du-Var, 392; approach to, 393; Architecture of shops and houses, 395; staircase, 397; gateway, 398; church, 400; remarkable keep-tower, 401; Vence, 407; cathedral, 409; keep towers, 411; column, 413; commandery of St Martin, 414; destruction of the Templars, 417; Nice, history, 418; Cimiès Cross, 421; castle of St André, 422; Villefranche, Eza, 422; La Turbie, 428; gateways, 430; Monaco, 432; history, 433; Ducal Palace, 434; Roquebrune, 437; Mentone, 438; Gorbio, Ste Agnes, Castellar, 441; boundary of Provençal Architecture, 441; Ventimiglia, 445; Dolce Aqua, 445; Pigna, 448; San Remo, 449; Taggia, 450; Bussana, Oneglia, &c, 451; Albenga, 452; Genoa, 455.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Details from Cathedral, Genoa, _Title-page_

Map of Provence and Riviera, _To face page_ 1

Details from Cathedral, Arles--_Headpiece_, 1

Details from Arles Museum--_Headpiece_, 7

Head in Arles Museum--_Tailpiece_, 24

Details from Cathedral, Genoa--_Headpiece_, 25

“ of Tomb of Cornelia, Arles--_Tailpiece_, 31

“ from Arles Museum--_Headpiece_, 32

VIENNE, Temple of Augustus and Livia, 36

“ Roman Forum, 37

“ The Pyramid, 38

“ Restored, 39

ORANGE, Roman Theatre--_Exterior_, 41

“ “ “ _Interior_, 43

“ Triumphal Arch, 46

ST REMY, Triumphal Arch and Mausoleum, 49

ARLES, Amphitheatre--_Exterior_, 52

“ “ _Interior_, 53

“ Roman Theatre, 55

“ Place d’Hommes, 57

“ The Alyscamps, 58

“ From the Museum, 59

“ Tomb of Cornelia, 60

“ From the Museum, 61

“ “ “ 62

“ “ “ 63

NIMES, Amphitheatre--_Exterior_, 64

“ “ _Interior_, 65

“ “ Corridor, 67

“ Maison Carrée, 69

NIMES, Statue of Venus, 71

“ Nymphæum, 72

“ La Tourmagne, 74

“ Le Pont du Gard, 75

FRÉJUS, Amphitheatre, 81

FRÉJUS, Aqueduct, 83

CLAUSONNE, Aqueduct, 84

CIMIES, (_Looking N.E._) 85

“ (_Looking S. W._), 86

LA TURBIE, Monument to Augustus, 87

From Arles Museum--_Tailpiece_, 89

“ --_Headpiece_, 90

SAN MINIATO, 101

TOULOUSE Cathedral, 106

From Piazza, San Matteo, Genoa--_Headpiece_, 121

LYONS, The Ainay, 122

“ Arcades in Cathedral, 123

VIENNE, St André-le-Bas, 124

“ St Pierre, 125

“ St Maurice, 126

“ House in, 127

VALENCE, Maison-des-Têtes, 128

CRUSSOL, Castle, 129

CRUAS, Abbey (_from S.W._), 130

“ Monastery Church, 131

“ Church, 133

ST PAUL-TROIS-CHÂTEAUX, _Part of Exterior_ (_from Révoil_), 135

AVIGNON, Church of Notre Dame des Doms, and Palace of the Popes, 140

“ Monument of Pope John XXII., 142

“ Plan of the Palace of the Popes (from Viollet-le-Duc’s _Dictionnaire_), 143

“ Portion of City Wall (_West side_), 149

“ Pont St Bénezet and Chapel of St Nicholas, 152

VILLENEUVE, Tower, 154

ST ANDRÉ, Oratory in Castle, 155

“ Castle, Villeneuve-lez-Avignon. _Plan of Entrance Gateway_, 156

“ Castle of, Villeneuve-lez-Avignon. _Exterior of Gateway_, 157

“ Castle, _Interior of Gateway_, 158

ST ANDRÉ, Castle, _Fireplace in Gatehouse_, 159

“ “ _Walls of Enceinte_, 160

“ Guard-room on wall, 161

“ Remains of a Guard-room on wall, 162

VILLENEUVE-LEZ-AVIGNON, Church, 163

Le Clocher de Molléges (from Viollet-le-Duc’s _Dictionnaire_), 168

TARASCON, Ste Marthe, 169

“ Castle, 171

TARASCON, House, 172

“ Gate, 173

BEAUCAIRE, Plan of the Castle, 174

“ Castle (_from S.-E._), 175

“ “ (_from N.-E._), 175

“ Plans of the Keep, 176

“ Castle (_Interior of Courtyard_), 177

LES BAUX, Fortress, 179

ST GABRIEL, Church, _West Front_. (From _Révoil_), 182

ARLES, St Trophime, 185

“ West Portal of St Trophime, 186

“ Cloisters, St Trophime, (_Eastern Arcade_), 189

“ “Clocher” of the Church of St Honorat, (From _Révoil_), 191

“ Renaissance House, 193

MONT-MAJOUR, Plan of Hermitage, 194

“ Hermitage--Chapel of St Peter, 195

“ The Church and Keep, 197

“ Cloisters, 198

“ Chapelle de Sainte Croix, 200

“ Mortuary Chapel, 201

“ The Keep, Hermitage, etc., 202

“ Plans and Section of Keep, 203

ST GILLES, Portal, 207

“ South Doorway, (_Enlarged_), 208

LES SAINTES MARIES, Church. (From _Révoil_.) 213

MARSEILLES, St Victor--_Exterior_, 214

“ “ _Interior_, 215

“ Monument in St Victor’s, 216

AIX-EN-PROVENCE, St Sauveur, Doorway, 217

“ “ “ _Interior_, 218

“ Cloisters, St Sauveur, 219

BÉZIERS, From the Orbe, 223

BÉZIERS, Tower, South side of St Nazaire, 224

“ Apse, St Nazaire, 225

“ Cathedral of St Nazaire, 226

“ Fountain in Cloisters, 227

“ House, 228

“ St Pierre de Reddes. (From _Révoil_.) 229

NARBONNE, Cathedral of St Just, 231

PERPIGNAN, The Castellet, 237

PERPIGNAN, Cathedral of St Jean, 238

ELNE, Marble Gateway, 241

“ Cathedral, 242

“ Cloisters, 244

CARCASSONNE, general view, 245

“ Towers and Castle, 247

“ Outer and Inner Walls, North Side, 249

“ Porte Narbonnaise, 251

“ Western Walls and Barbican, 253

“ Interior of Walls, 256

“ St Nazaire, 258

AIGUES MORTES, “Tour de Constance,” 261

“ Walls on East and North Sides, 263

“ Interior of South Side of Walls, 265

“ Porte de Nimes, 267

HYÈRES, Castle, 272

“ St Paul, 273

CANNET, 275

THORONET, Church from South-West, 276

“ “ _Interior_, 277

“ Cloister, 279

“ Caps in Cloister, 280

“ Fountain in Grounds, 283

ST MAXIMIN, Church, 284

FRÉJUS, Plan of Cathedral, 285

“ Cathedral, _Interior_, 286

“ Western Enclosure and Cathedral Buildings, 287

“ Cathedral, Eastern Tower and Bishop’s Palace, 288

“ “ South or Entrance Front, 290

“ “ Baptistery, 292

RIEZ, The “Pantheon,” _Plan_ (_From Texier and Pullan_), 293

“ “ _Section_ “ “ 294

FRÉJUS, Cathedral, Cloisters, 295

“ “ “ _Interior_, 297