LETTER I.

DRESS.

PROPRIETY of conforming to Fashion, with a due Regard for individual Peculiarities of Appearance--Eccentricity of Taste in Dress--Obedience to the Laws of Convention--The vagaries of Genius, in this respect--Absurdity and Affectation originated by the Example of Byron--All indifference and neglect to be avoided, with regard to Dress--Anecdote of Dr. Johnson and the Siddons--Porson, the Greek Scholar--Horace Greeley--Aphorism-- Habits of a distinguished Parisian _savant_--Example and opinion of Washington with reference to Dress--Partiality of Americans for Black, as the color of dress-clothes--Practice of Men in other Countries, in the selection of Colors--Morning Costume of an English Gentleman--Every English Gentleman usefully employed during a Portion of each Day--Dr. Johnson's Test of good Taste in Dress--The golden mean in Matters of Dress--Ceremonious Costume of a Gentleman--Mode of wearing the Hair and Beard-- Necessity for artistic Taste in one's Barber--All extremes of Fashion in bad Taste--Various Absurdities in this respect, inconsistent with the "keeping" of modern Costume--Collars, their size, shape, &c.--Sleeve-buttons--Bad taste of wearing flash Stones--Use of Diamonds In Dress--Simplicity in the Appendages of Dress, the characteristic of true refinement-- Signet-rings--Distinctive Points of difference between the exterior of a Gentleman and of a Loafer--All staring patterns in Gentlemen's clothes exceptionable--A white suit throughout, for warm Weather--Thin Cravats--Body Linen-- Kotzebue's test of high-breeding--Strength and Comfort the essential Characteristics of working Garments--Fitness and propriety even in matters of Dress, indicative of a well-regulated Mind--Every American should aim to be a true Gentleman--Importance of Trifles, when viewed in the aggregate--Influence of Dress, etc., upon Character and Manner--Wearing Gloves in Dancing--White Gloves alone unexceptionable for ceremonious Evening Occasions--Gloves suitable for the Street and Morning Visits--Bright-colored Gloves in bad _ton_--Illustrative Anecdote--Over-Garments-- Variety sanctioned by Fashion--Becomingness of different Styles--Inconvenience and ill-appearance of Shawls--When Suitable--South American Poncho--Anecdote--New reading of Lord Nelson's celebrated Naval Orders--Difference between Talking and Writing, the Author's Apology for numerous Defects--The Mill-boy of the Slashes--The Author unacquainted with the Elegancies of modern Fashionable Nomenclature--Terms of agreement between the Author and his Correspondents, 25