Part 3

If they be constantly kept where there is fire, let the window be opened some inches; two or three time a day, for a few minutes, thereby making the air of the apartment more congenial, both for animal and vegetable nature.

WATERING, &c.

There are very few plants killed for want of water, during winter. All that is necessary is merely to keep the soil in a moist state, that is, do not let it get so dry that you can divide the particles of earth, nor so wet that they could be beat to clay. The frequency of watering can be best regulated by the person doing it, as it depends entirely upon the size of the pot or jar in proportion to the plant, whether it is too little or too large, and the situation it stands in, whether moist or arid. Never allow any quantity of water to stand in the flats or saucers. This is too frequently practised with plants in general. Such as _Cálla Æthiòpica_, or African Lily, will do well, as water is its element, (like _Sagittària_ in this country;) and the _Hydrángea horténsis_, when in a growing state, will do admirably under such treatment. Many plants may do well for some time, but it being so contrary to their nature, causes premature decay; a f[oe]tid stagnation takes place at the root, the foliage becomes yellow, and the plant stunted; and in the winter season, death will ensue.

OF CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

In rooms the buds of Camellias will be well swelled, and on the Double White and Double Variegated sorts, perhaps they will be full blown. While in that state the temperature should not be below 34°; if lower they will not expand so well, and the expanded petals will soon become yellow and decay. If they are where there is fire heat, they must have plenty of air admitted to them every favourable opportunity, or the consequence will be, that all the buds will turn dark brown, and fall off. It is generally the case, in the treatment of these beautiful plants in rooms, that through too much intended care they are entirely destroyed. In the city, they do not agree with confined air, and they cannot get too much of pure air, if they are kept from frost or cutting winds. To sponge frequently will greatly promote the health of the plants, and add to the beauty of their foliage, as it prevents the attacks of mildew. In this season they do not require much water at root, which may be observed in the slight absorption by the soil. See this subject under the head of _Watering_.

When the flowers are expanded, and droop, tie them up neatly, so that the flower may be shown to every advantage.

OF INSECTS, &c.

Insects of various kinds will be appearing on your plants. For method of destruction see _Hot-house_, _January_. It will not be agreeable to fumigate the room or rooms, or even to have the smell of tobacco near the house from this cause.

Many ingredients have been compounded, and prescriptions recommended, for the destruction of these nefarious pests. Many of them are altogether ineffectual. Of receipts specified in works of this kind, not a few of them (though eagerly sought for) by men of extensive practice, have been rejected. We shall give the most simple, and in part effective receipt for the destruction of the Green fly.

Take a large tub of soft water, (if the day is frosty, it had better be done in the house,) invert the plant, holding the hand, or tying a piece of cloth, or any thing of the kind, over the soil in the pot, put all the branches in the water, keeping the pot in the hand, drawing it to and fro a few times; take it out, and shake it. If any insects remain, take a small fine brush, and brush them off, giving another dip, which will clean them for the present. As soon as they appear again, repeat the process--for nothing that we have found out, or heard of, can totally extirpate them.

OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN GENERAL.

If you have retained any of the _Cape bulbs_ from the last planting, let them be put in, in the early part of the month. For method, see _September_. Those that are growing must be kept very near the light, that is, close to the window, or they will not flourish to your satisfaction. The fall-flowering oxalis may be kept on the stage, or any other place, to give room to those that are to flower.

_Hyacinths_, _Jonquils_, _Narcissus_, _Tulips_, &c. will keep very well in a room where fire heat is constantly kept, providing that they are close to the window. A succession of these, as before observed, may beautify the drawing room from February to April, by having a reserved stock, in a cold situation, and taking a few of them every week into the warmest apartment.

Wherever any of the bulbs are growing, and in the interior of the room, remove them close to the light, observing to turn the pots or glasses frequently to prevent them from growing to one side, and giving them support as soon as the stems droop, or the head becomes pendant. The saucers under the Hyacinth and Narcissus especially may stand with water, and observe to change the water in the glasses, as already mentioned.

Every one that has any taste or refinement in their floral undertakings, will delight in seeing the plants in perfection; to have them so, they must be divested of every leaf that has the appearance of decaying--let this always be attended to.

=Hot-House.=

_FEBRUARY_.

In the early part of this month the weather generally is very cold and changeable in the middle states, and strict attention, with the greatest caution, will require to be paid to the management of the Hot-house. Most of the tropical plants commence an active state of vegetation; and if checked by temperature or otherwise, they will not recover until midsummer. The thermometer may be kept two or three degrees higher with fire heat than last month; the sun will be more powerful, and this will, in a great degree, increase the vigour of the plants. Air may be admitted when the thermometer rises to 75° or 80°, not allowing it to rise higher than the latter. In giving air, let it be done by the top sashes. It is improper to give it in any way to cause a current, for the external air is very cold, although the sun is more powerful. An inch or two on a few of the sashes, as has been previously observed, will be effectual in keeping the temperature low enough, except the weather is very mild.

With regard to firing, what was said last month may suffice for this. Always recollect that it is preferable to keep out the cold than to put it out. It will frequently happen in the time of intense frost, that the weather is dull. In such cases fire in a small degree is requisite all day.

Heavy snows ought never to be allowed to remain on the shutters while they are on the house. If the snow lies on the sashes one day, the internal heat will dissolve some of it; night coming on will freeze it to the wood work, when it will become a solid mass, and too frequently cannot be separated without much damage. If allowed to remain on for two days, the plants are very much weakened, and the foliage discoloured. Therefore let the snow be cleared off instantly, that no inconvenience may take place.

It will be observed that plants absorb more water this month than last. The quantity given will require to be increased, according to the increase of vegetation and the advancement of the season; but never give it until the soil begins to get dry, and then in such proportion as will reach the bottom of the pot. After the sun has got on the house in the morning is the best time to water, observing all the directions given in January.

OF INSECTS, &c.

Perhaps sufficient observations were given under this head last month; but the importance of keeping these disagreeable visitors out of the house, constrains us to make a few more remarks, and perhaps it may be necessary every month. Man cannot be too frequently guarded against his foes, more especially when they are summoning all their forces, and no profession has more than that of the Horticulturist. Let a strict examination be made about the end of the month for the Red spider; they will be in operation some weeks before their depredations are observed on the foliage. The under side of the leaf is their resort in the first instance, and on such plants as have been already mentioned.

Observe daily the young shoots, in case the Green fly becomes numerous. They give the foliage a very disagreeable appearance, and with most people it is intolerable, before their career is arrested. It also takes a stronger fumigation, which has frequently to be repeated the following day to the same degree, much to the injury of many of the plants, and adding to the disagreeableness of the continued vapour in the house.

OF SHIFTING PLANTS.

The _Calceolàrias_ that were put in small pots about the beginning or middle of last month, will, if they have done well, require, about the end of this, to be put in pots a size larger.

If any of _Lilìum longiflòrum_, _Speciòsum_, or _Japónicum_, are wanted to flower early, and were put in the Hot-house in December, without dividing, those that are to flower will have pushed their flower stems, and can be separated from those that will not flower, and put singly into pots; the two former into five or six inch pots, while the latter require six or seven inch pots. Of those that do not flower, three or four can be put into one pot.

About the end of the month, some of the plants of _Eurcúma_, _Amómum_, _Kæmpféria_, _Glóbba_, _Phrynium_, _Cánna_, _Zíngiber_, _Hedychium_, and others that are on the dry shelf, will be offering to grow. Let them be taken out of their pots, some of their weakest shoots or tubers taken off, and the strong ones repotted: give gentle waterings until they grow freely, then give an abundance.

_Dionæa mucípula_, or Venus fly trap, grows best in the Hot-house, and will, about the end of the month, stand in need of being repotted. This plant is very seldom grown in any degree of perfection, having been always considered a delicate plant in collections. The operator has never had courage to treat it according to its nature in a cultivated state. If it is taken out of the pot, just when beginning to grow afresh, and divested of all the soil, leaving only a few of the young roots, (it is a bulb, and will receive no injury by so doing,) put it in new soil; when potted, place the pot in a saucer with one inch of water in it, giving always a fresh supply, when necessary. A shady and moist situation is best adapted to it; this being repeated every year, it will grow, flower, and seed in perfection.

_Gesnérias_, if in small pots, give larger as they advance in growth. This genus requires to be well attended to make them flower well. _G. bulbósa_ ought to have a situation in every Hot-house. It is remarkable for its many brilliant crimson flowers, and continues in flower for a length of time. When the bulb begins to push, shake it out of the earth, putting it into a small pot; and, as soon as the roots reach the side of the earth, which will be in about one month, put it in a larger pot, and continue to do so until flowering, which will be about the first of June, observing always to keep the ball of earth entire.

_Gloriósas_ must be repotted in the beginning of this month. Etymologists have said that this _genus_ is named from the glorious appearance of its flowers. _G. supérba_ is the most beautiful and curious. The roots ought to be planted one and a half inch deep, taking care not to break them; if there is a bark bed, place the pots in it. Do not water much until they begin to grow. Where there is no bark bed, put the pots into others three inches larger, filling all round with sand, and place them in the warmest part of the house. Keep the sand moist, which will assist to keep the soil in a moist state. The earth must not have much water. As the plants grow, they will require a more liberal supply; yet it is necessary, at all times, to be moderate in giving it. If well treated, the superb flowers will appear in June or July.

OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, &c.

With regard to cleaning the plants. Sprinkling, or syringing, is at all times, to a greater or less degree, necessary. The plants will, in this compartment, be in their first stage of growth, and, if dust or foulness be permitted to lodge on their foliage, the pores will be obstructed, the plants will become unhealthy, and the growth of insects increased.

Let all moss, litter, decayed leaves, or weeds, be cleared out of the house, the earth in the pots stirred up with a round pointed stick, and fresh earth given where required, that the air may operate therein freely.

The house ought always to be sprinkled before being swept, to prevent the dust rising.

Attend to the bulbous roots as directed last month, such as _Hyacinths_, _Narcissus_, &c.

=Green-House.=

_FEBRUARY_.

The directions given last month respecting the airing and temperature of the house, may still be followed, differing only in admitting air more freely as the season advances, and according to the power the sun has on the glass, which now begins to be considerable.

If the weather is tolerably mild, air may be admitted in time of sunshine, so as to keep the mercury as low as 45°, but be cautious in cold, cloudy, frosty weather. It is a practice with many in such weather to keep the shutters on the house night and day, for the space of a week, and sometimes more, never entering it; and, when the weather has induced them to look in, they find that the frost and damp have made many lifeless subjects; whereas, had the house and plants been attended to, in taking off the shutters, and giving a little fire when requisite, all would have been in safety, and many that cannot be replaced still in the collection.

When watering, strictly adhere to the directions of last month, except with _Geraniums_, and other soft wooded plants, which require a little more water toward the end of the month. If the days are mild and sunny about eight or nine o'clock in the morning, all the plants would be benefited by a gentle syringing, which retards the progress of insects, and accelerates vegetation.

Succulents, such as _Cáctus_, _Mesembryánthemum_, _Aloes_, _Furchræas_, _Crássulas_, _Cotylèdons_, &c. will very seldom need water, at the same time keep them from getting as dry as powder.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

Similar treatment to that recommended last month will do for this. Where the soil in the tubs or pots requires to be enriched, take of bone dust or shavings, and fresh sheep dung, equal quantities; put the mixture into a large tub or barrel, until one third full; and fill it up with water. Stir it well two or three times every day for a week, then give each tree one good watering with the compound. Continue to mix up afresh, and let it stand another week, and so on until all the trees requiring it are watered. This watering will greatly enrich the soil, and invigorate the roots.

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

The bulbs, of _Ferrària undulata_ and _F. antheròsa_, that were taken out of the pots in October, will now require to be planted. Five inch pots will be large enough for good roots. The grand criterion for planting bulbs is when there is a protuberant appearance about the bottom, or root part of the bulb, showing, by a principle of nature, the true time for transplanting. When bulbous roots of any description appear above ground, they ought to be placed in an airy situation. They are very frequently placed under other plants, by the inexperienced, until they show their flowers, and then brought to the light, having weak flowers, and comparatively of momentary existence.

_Hyacinths_, _Narcissus_, _Gladìolus_, _Ixia_, &c. having flower stems, ought to have support, to prevent accident, especially the two former; keep them nigh the glass, and water freely. Change the water regularly in the bulb glasses, observing that their roots are never allowed to become matted with f[oe]tid water. Any of the above plants that are in flower, might, if desired, be taken into the drawing room or parlour, washing the pots clean, and putting saucers under them, keeping therein a little water. Twice a week the decayed ones can be taken out, and supplanted with those that are coming into bloom.

CAMELLIA JAPONICA

Will, in this month, show a profusion of flowers; and, where there is a variety, they have truly a magnificent appearance. From a good selection, endless varieties, by seed, of exquisite beauty, might be obtained by attention to the following rule. The best to select for bearing seed are _Single white_, _Atoniana_, _Grandiflora_, _Waratah_, _Carnation Waratah_, _Fulgens_, and, in many instances, the pistil, or pistillum of _Variegata_, _Pompone_, _Pæoniflora_, and _Intermedia_, are perfect, with several others. When any of the above are newly expanded, (_Waratah_ is most perfect about one day before expansion,) take a fine camel hair pencil, and put it gently on the farina or pollen, which is a yellow substance on the anthers, and, when ripe, appears in thousands of small particles. Take the finest double kinds, then, with this on the pencil, rub lightly the stile of those intended to carry seed. Between the hours of ten and twelve in the forenoon, is the most proper time for the operation; the seed will be ripe in September or October, which will be taken notice of, and directions given. For other particulars on cleaning and syringing, see _January_ under this head.

OF SHIFTING &c.

The best time to repot _Camellias_, is just when they are done flowering, which will be before they begin to grow. There are, though not frequently, some flowers after the young foliage begins to appear, and probably it would be better to discriminate the time by the buds offering to push, which will answer to those that have no flowers, as well as those that have. The most general time in shifting _Camellias_ is in August and September, indiscriminately with other plants; and, if then not very gently handled, bad roots eventually are produced. Frequently very fine plants have been killed by probing, and breaking the young fibrous roots, thus causing mortification.

In the process, do not, by any means, break, or bruise any of the roots: and do not give large pots, with the idea of making them grow fast: it acts on most plants diametrically opposite to what is intended. A pot one or one and a half inches wider and deeper than the one they have been in previously, is sufficient. Healthy plants under five feet will not require shifting oftener than once in two years; from five feet upwards in three or four years, according to the health of the plants. This treatment, in the opinion of some, will appear not sufficient: it will be found enough with a top-dressing every year to keep them in a healthy, flowering condition, the soil being according to our description.

On turning the plant out of the pot, it may easily be observed if the soil has, in any degree, been congenial to it; for if so, the roots will be growing all round the ball; if otherwise, no roots will appear.

Therefore, with a blunt pointed stick, probe away all the bad earth, until you come to the roots; then put the plant in the pot about one inch in diameter, larger than the combined roots, previously putting a few small pieces of broken pots, or clean gravel, to drain off the superabundant moisture, and give light waterings, as the roots in this case will grow but slowly.

Top dress all that requires shifting, probe out the soil down to the roots, and by the side of the pot, taking care not to break the fibres; then fill up with fresh earth, watering gently with a rose on the watering pot to settle it.

OF CLEANING, &c.

If any of the plants require cleaning, either by fumigation or otherwise, let it be done before the young foliage appears, according to directions heretofore given. Likewise tie neatly all that require it, clean and top dress those that will not be shifted, having every plant and all in the Green-house, in perfect order, before the throng of spring commences. The weather will now admit, in very fine mornings, of the plants being syringed, which may be done between half past seven and half past eight: and the path or pavement should be washed out once a week, which is a great improvement to the appearance of the whole interior.

In winter whenever any glass is broken it should be immediately mended. Broken glass in cold nights causes a very destructive current of air. It should always be made water tight, for if the drops fall into the pots upon the roots, they will frequently prove fatal to the plants; therefore care ought to be taken during rain to remove those that stand in any manner exposed.

=Flower Garden.=

_FEBRUARY_.

Where the borders and beds were dug in the fall, and compost or a thin coating of well decayed manure given, the advantage will now in part be experienced. If the weather is open about the end of the month, the pruning should be done with the utmost despatch; that all may be prepared for a general dressing next month, and let nothing be delayed which can now properly be accomplished, under the idea that there is time enough.

OF PRUNING, &c.

Generally about the end of the month the very severe frosts are over; and when none need be apprehended that would materially injure hardy shrubs, they may freely be pruned of all dead branches, and the points cut off such shoots as have been damaged by the winter. Most of shrubs require nothing more than to be pruned of straggling, irregular, and injured branches, or of suckers that rise round the root, observing that they do not intermingle with each other. Never trim them up in a formal manner. Regular shearing of shrubs and topiary work have been expelled as unworthy of a taste the least improved by reflections on the beauty, simplicity, and grandeur of nature. In fact, the pruning of deciduous hardy shrubs should be done in such a manner as not to be observable when the plants are covered with verdure. It may frequently be observed in Flower-gardens, that roses and shrubs of every description are indiscriminately cut with the shears, the _Amórphas_ and _Althèas_ sharing the same fate.

_Robínias_, _Colùteas_, _Cyticus_, _Rhús_, _Genístas_, with several of the _Viburnums_, and many others, bear their flowers on the wood of last year, and when thus sheared afford no gratification in flowering. And those shrubs that thus flower on the shoots of last year are perhaps worse to keep in regular order, than those to which the knife can be freely applied; but good management while young will ensure handsome free flowering plants.

Climbing shrubs, and others that are trained against outbuildings, walls, or such as are sheltered thereby, and not now in danger of suffering by frost, may be pruned and dressed. These should be neatly trimmed, and the branches moderately thinned out, tying in all the shoots straight and regular. Avoid at all times, if possible, the crossing of any shoots.

There is not a shrub in the garden that agrees so well with close cutting, as the _Althèa_, and all its varieties. These can be made either bushes or trees, and kept at any desired height. Where the wood of last year is cut to about two or three inches from the wood of the former year, the young shoots of this year will produce the largest and finest flowers, and likewise more profusely. When they have attained the desired height, let them be kept in the most natural and handsome shape that the taste of the operator can suggest. They will bear cutting to any degree.