Part 12

Where the Hot-house has been properly conducted, the plants generally will have a vigorous and healthful aspect. An error frequently arises in the conducting of these departments, by inexperienced operators being ambitious of outstripping their competitors. They keep the house in a very high temperature, and admit little or no air. Where such mode has been pursued, the plants will have got over their first growth, and the foliage look yellow and decaying, thus throwing the plants into a state of inactivity, when nature herself commences her most active movements. The temperature should not be under 60° nor much above 75°, without admitting a little air by the top lights. It will not do yet to give air by the front sashes, the wind being cool, and a current in the house would be hurtful. The sun is not so powerful but the heat can be kept down by the air given from above. In very cold cutting winds, though the effects of sun heat be great, admitting of much air may be injurious. Whatever error may arise, let it be on the side of caution. However, when high winds prevail, there is little danger of the house becoming overheated by the effect of the sun. Hot-house or tropical plants will not be hurt with 110°, if they are not touching the glass. And if the plants are near the glass generally, the glass should have a coat of very thin white-wash (not lime), where the glass is thin and light in colour; but if it is thick and green, there need be no white-washing.

The plants will need a liberal supply of water every day. We have so constantly cautioned the operator on administering this element, that a repetition here is unnecessary. Sprinkle them well with the syringe or engine in the evenings about sundown, four or five times a week, and strictly observe that none of them are omitted; for where there are such, it is probable they are attacked by the red spider. If any of these are detected, syringe them powerfully morning and evening. Water is most effectual in their destruction, and most congenial to the plants. Give regular fumigations to destroy the green-fly. Wherever there is dust or foulness contracted on the foliage, wash all clean with sponge and water; for on these insects are harboured in such quantities that they, in a short time, would overrun all the plants in the house. Keeping the house constantly clean, the plants clear of decayed leaves and every thing of a corroding nature, and duly syringing them, is the surest method of not being much troubled with insects.

For repotting plants, see next month; except those that you are fostering to a great extent, such as _Alstr[oe]merias_, _Calceolàrias_, or any herbaceous plants that require great encouragement to make them flower well. These should always be repotted, as soon as the roots come to be round the outside of the ball.

=Green-House.=

_APRIL._

Regarding the shifting or repotting of plants, the directions given last month may be followed. If the plants are not shifted that require it, get them done as soon as possible, for they will soon get into a luxuriant state of growth, and then it would not be advisable to shift them. Those that were repotted last month will have taken fresh root in the new soil, and the advantage will soon be perceptible. In order to strengthen the plants, and keep them from becoming drawn and spindly, admit large portions of air every mild day. Indeed there will be very few days in this month, that a little air may not be given, always observing to divide the quantity regularly over the house, in cool nights closing in time. About the end of the month an abundance of air is indispensable, leaving the sashes and doors open every mild night, that the plants may be inured to the open exposure they will have in a few weeks.

WATERING.

As the season advances and vegetation increases, the waterings will require to be more copious and more frequent. Look over all plants minutely every day, and with judicious care supply their wants. Those that are of a soft shrubby nature, and in a free-growing state, will require a larger portion at one time than those of a hard texture, which may only want it every two or three days. The weather and situation in some instances may require a modification of these directions. Plants in general will not suffer so soon from being a little dry as from being over-watered. The health and beauty of the foliage of the plants may be much improved by syringing them freely three evenings in the week, except in moist weather, when it ought not to be done. The ravages of many insects also will be retarded, especially mildew and red spider, which will be entirely destroyed. If the red spider is on any of the plants, particularly take them aside evening and morning, and give them a good dashing with water through the syringe. Where there is mildew, after syringing the plant, dust it on the affected parts with flowers of sulphur, and set them for a few days where they will be sheltered from the wind, after which wash off the sulphur. If the cure is not complete, renew the dose. Always sweep out and dry up the water in the house when any is spilt. The succulent plants will be in want of a little water about once a week, but do not overwater them, as there is not heat enough to absorb much moisture. If the soil is damp, it is quite sufficient.

ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

Will in many instances about the end of this month be showing flowers or flower buds. They must under these circumstances have plenty of air to prevent them from falling off when entirely exposed. The reason that we see so much fine blossom falling to the ground where the trees are brought out of the house in May, is from the confinement they have had. Where there is a convenience of giving air from the back of the Green-house, it should always be given in mild days, especially in those houses that have a recess back from the top of the sashes, for even if the sashes are let down every day, still the house will not be properly ventilated. Any plants that are sickly and intended to be planted in the garden next month to renovate their growth, may be cut back, (if not already done,) as far as is required to give the tree a handsome form, taking care not to cut below the graft or inoculation. Let the operation be done with a fine saw and sharp knife, smoothing the amputations that are made by the saw; and if they are large, put a little well made clay over the wound, to prevent the air from mortifying the shoot. Turpentine is preferable to clay, not being subject to crack or fall off by the weather.

If there are any _Lagerstr[oe]mias_, _Pomegranate_, or _Hydràngeas_ in the cellar, they should be brought out about the first of the month, and planted in their respective situations. Give the _Hydràngea_ a very shady spot. It does not require one ray of the sun, providing it has plenty of air, and do not plant it into soil that has been lately manured. A large plant must have great supplies of water in dry weather. If the plant is very thick, the oldest branches may be thinned out, but do not cut out any of the young shoots, as they contain the embryo of the flower. _Lagerstr[oe]mias_ will flower abundantly without pruning, but to have fine large spikes of flowers, cut in the wood of last year to about three eyes from the wood of the preceding year; by this they will be much finer. _Pomegranates_ will only require a little of the superfluous wood cut out. Perhaps some of them may be desired to flower in pots or tubs during summer: the balls will admit of being much reduced, and by this a pot or tub very little larger will do for them. Do not give much water until they begin to grow.

MYRTLES AND OLEANDERS.

If any of these have grown irregularly, and are not headed down or otherwise pruned, as directed last month, they should now be done. Oleanders are very subject to the white scaly insect, and before the heat of summer begins, they should be completely cleansed. This insect is likewise found on _Myrtles_, which are worse to clean, and ought to be minutely examined twice every year. We have observed mildew on these shrubs, which makes the foliage brown and unsightly. If it is detected in time, syringing is an effectual remedy.

GERANIUMS.

Some of the earliest blooming kinds of these will now begin to flower, and the sun will greatly deteriorate their rich colours where they are near the glass with a south aspect. The glass should be white-washed, which will cast a thin shade over them, and prolong the duration of the bloom, but if they are above five feet from the glass, white-washing is not requisite. The strong kinds will be growing very luxuriantly, and require liberal supplies of water. When syringing, do not sprinkle the flowers, as it would make the colours intermingle with each other, and cause them to decay prematurely. If they have been properly attended to in that respect, it may be dispensed with after they have generally come in flower, which will not be until about the first of May.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS AND BULBOUS ROOTS.

If any of the herbaceous plants were neglected to be divided last month, do not omit it now. They will not flower so well if potted entire, and their growth by this time will be much hurt, if not carefully shaded from the sun. After dividing, sprinkle gently with water three times a day, until they have taken fresh root, when they can be put amongst the other plants.

_Cape Bulbs._ Those that flowered late in autumn, as soon as the foliage begins to decay, may be set aside, and the water withheld by degrees. When the foliage is entirely gone, and the roots dry, clear them from the earth, and after laying exposed in the shade for a few days to dry, pack them up in dry moss, with their respective names attached, until August, when they may be again potted. Treat those that are in flower the same as directed in last month.

_Dutch Roots._ All the species and varieties of these that have been kept in the Green-house during winter, will now be done flowering; the water should be withdrawn gradually from them; and then the pots turned on their sides to ripen the bulbs. Or, a superior method is, where there is the convenience of a garden, to select a bed not much exposed. Turn the balls out of the pots and plant them; the roots will ripen better this way than any other. Have them correctly marked, that no error may take place. They can be lifted with the other garden bulbs.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

The best situation for most plants while in flower, is where they are shaded from the sun, and fully exposed to the air. _Primroses_, both European and Chinese, flower best, and the colours are finest when the plants are in the front of the house, and entirely shaded from the sun. The Chinese _Azàleas_ and _Rhododéndrons_ require, while in flower, a similar situation. Have all the shoots tied naturally to neat rods, and keep them clear from others by elevating them on empty pots, or any other substitute. See that there are no insect upon them; for they make a miserable contrast with flowers. The _Cálla æthiopica_ should stand in water when in flower, and even before flowering they will be much strengthened by it.

INSECTS.

Insects will on some plants be very perplexing. The weather may admit of those that are infected to be taken out of doors, and put into a frame in any way that is most convenient. Fumigating them about half an hour, if the day is calm, will be sufficient; but if windy, they will take an hour. When done, syringe them well, and put them in their respective situations. By the above method, the house will not be made disagreeable with the fumes of tobacco.

Tie up neatly all the climbing plants. Keep those that are running up the rafters of the house close to the longitudinal wires. As previously observed, running plants should not be taken across the house, except in some instances where it can be done over the pathway, otherwise it shades the house too much. Clear off all decayed leaves, and all contracted foulness, that the house and plants may in this month have an enlivening aspect, as it is undoubtedly one of the most interesting seasons of the year in the Green-house.

FLOWERING STOCKS.

Those that have been kept in the Green-house, or in frames, should be planted into beds or the borders, where they will seed better than if kept in the pots. The method generally adopted is to select the plants that are intended for seed; plant the different kinds distinctly and separately; then take a few double flowering plants of each kind, which plant round their respective single varieties that are to be kept for seed. Whenever any of the colours sport, that is, become spotted or striped with other colours, pull these up, and destroy them, for they will soon degenerate the whole, and ought never to be seen in collections that have any pretensions to purity. Many have been the plans recommended as the best for saving, and growing from seed the double varieties of German stock. In every method we have tried we have been successful and unsuccessful; although we generally practise planting the double kinds beside the single, where they are intended for seed. We have no scientific reason for it; not seeing what influence these monsters of flowers can have over a flower where the male and female organs are perfect; which in these are wanting. Some say that the semi-double sorts are best: we have likewise found them both abortive and fruitful in the desired results.

=Flower Garden.=

_APRIL._

The ambition of every attentive gardener, during this month, is to be at the head of every department, and over every spot. The operator's activity in this month regulates the whole season. Every weed ought to be cut down as soon as it appears, and the proverbial saying will be realized, "a garden that is well kept is easily kept." A wet day need cause no loss of time. Prepare rods, bands, and tallies, to be in readiness when required. Damp weather should always be taken to prick out or transplant annuals, or stocks, but by no means go on the borders while they are wet. If it cannot be done by keeping on the walks, defer it until they are in a proper state. One day of laborious attention just now will save two in the heat of summer. Many in the height of bustle never finish properly as they proceed, which is the worst of practices. Every operation ought to be completely and properly finished before another is taken in hand, which will ultimately prove the quickest and best method to work upon.

Let digging, pruning, hoeing, raking, &c. be done as expeditiously as strength will allow; that the time may be devoted for a few weeks to the beautifying of the garden by sowing and planting.

ANNUALS.

Those that are tender and were sown last month, according to directions, will be ready to prick out into another light hot-bed, about two feet high, prepared as directed in February. Keep them a few inches apart to let the air circulate. Give them frequent sprinklings with water, and shade them with a mat for a few days until they have taken fresh root; then give them plenty of air, and by the first of next month expose them night and day to harden the plants for the open ground. A few of the annual seeds of every description, and of every country and climate, may be sown any time after the middle of the month. If the season prove favourable they will do well; but reserving a part to sow about the 15th of May, will guard against every extreme.

Those that have come above ground should be thinned out, the dwarf-growing kinds to two or three inches, and the large sorts to four or five inches apart; or they may be only separated about an inch, going over them again in a few weeks; when a few might be taken of those that will bear removing, and plant them in vacant spaces that require filling up. All the varieties of French and African Marygold answer best when transplanted, likewise the species of _Coreòpsis_ that were sown in autumn. The varieties of _Ten-week Stock_, _Balsams_, _Coxcombs_, and other strong growing sorts, generally flower stronger when replanted.

BIENNIALS AND PERENNIALS.

Any biennials that are intended to be removed, and not done last month, must not be delayed longer. The roots of many of them will be very strong, and if possible a cloudy day should be chosen for the operation. Give copious waterings in the evenings until they begin to grow. When the sun is strong, they must be shaded by a piece of board, shingle, or any similar substitute, for some days. When the seeds of these are sown, they should be distinctly marked. The initial B. is the most appropriate.

_Perennials._ For a limited description of several genera and species, see last month. Those that have not been divided and replanted, where large, they should be done directly, if the weather is dry. They must be carefully watered, and shaded as above directed for _Biennials_.

DAHLIAS.

_Dáhlia supérflua_, or what is now called _Georgìana variábilis_, is one of the most fashionable and popular hardy herbaceous plants of the present day. The varieties of the present species are almost endless. The double kinds only are cultivated, the single varieties having been thrown aside. Several collections in Europe contain upwards of three hundred double varieties, of every colour and taste, occupying more than two acres of ground. It will be difficult to specify the finest; but in this country the dwarf-growing sorts are preferred. To make them flower freely, they should be planted in poor heavy soil. From the end of this month to the middle of May, take the roots from their winter quarters to the garden, and with a spade make a hole sufficiently wide and deep to receive the crowns of the roots one inch deeper than the surface of the ground, cutting off with a sharp knife the old stumps close to the eyes. They have the finest effect in rows; plant them four feet apart in the row, and the rows six feet asunder. Individual plants of a dwarf nature look extremely well. The best one for this is the _Dwarf Globe Crimson_, and is perhaps the finest that is known, being prolific, compact, beautiful, and very dwarf, never exceeding three feet: if properly grown, _Púlla elècta_, _Famæa_, and _Zenò_, are also fine dwarf sorts; as tall growing kinds _Etna_; _Imperiòsa_; _Ciceró_; _Cocàde_; _Cambridge Surprise_; _Dutchess of Wellington_; _Countess of Liverpool_; _Barret's William Fourth_; _True Mountain of Snow_; _Diàna_; _Crimson Bonnet_; and _Exímia_, are all superb, and at present the highest in estimation. For the names of more of the finest varieties, with their colour, see Catalogue at the end of the work.

When the roots become very large, they ought to be divided, and in dry seasons they require to be liberally supplied with water to keep them growing. If their growth is obstructed, the flowering will be imperfect. Where they are grown to any extent, it would be advisable to put up a large hot-bed about the end of March, and plant them close together therein, about the beginning of April, which would immediately cause them to grow. Give plenty of air, and about the middle of May plant them in the borders, beds, or rows, which will in cool seasons cause them to flower earlier.

The flowers are from three to eight inches in diameter. There ought to be a few of the most distinct and superb varieties, in every garden. Some individuals consider the _Anemoné-flowered_ varieties the finest; but those who never saw a _Dáhlia_ flower of any character, would, in our opinion, chose the large petaled flowers. The _Anemoné-flowered_ sorts likewise are not so large in flower as the other varieties.

The foliage has no particular attraction about it; the stems look strong, but are soft in substance. If seeds are sown on a hot-bed in March, most of them will flower the same year, by transplanting in the garden about the end of May; but the fine double kinds seldom produce seeds.

CHINA ROSES.

From the first to the middle of this month is the best time to plant the varieties of Chinese roses. If they are to be removed out of the ground, the earlier in the month the better; but where they are in pots, the precise time is not so material. There are about seventy varieties, including the species of these in cultivation; all of them do extremely well in this country, growing freely, and flowering abundantly in the open air. A few of them require protection during winter. The List at the end of the work will contain all the finest varieties; but as they are not generally known, and the greater part of them highly deserving a situation in every garden, a few limited specific observations is obviously desirable to those who are not acquainted with their beauty and fragrance.

No. 1. _Ròsa índica_, common China or daily. From the last name an error has taken place, that it blooms every day. In one sense of the word it does. Plants that are young, and in good ground, will grow and flower constantly from the end of April until the buds are killed with frost; but they will never flower when not growing; the bloom being produced on the young wood. The flower is about three inches in diameter, of a dark blush or rose colour, petals large, and loose, between a semi-double and double, and perfectly hardy.

No. 2. *[B]_Rose Animated_, daily, is a very fine rose, and its merits are appreciated by those who have it in their collections. It is more double, and better formed than No. 1, and partakes of the fragrance of No. 8, is perfectly hardy, colour a fine blush, grows freely, and flowers abundantly; and is coming into great repute.

[B] Those marked thus * we have grown from seed.

No. 3. _Rosa Indìca mínor_, is the smallest of the China roses that we are familiar with; about the end of April or beginning of May it is completely covered with pretty little flowers, and much admired for its diminutiveness: colour same as No. 1.

No. 4. _Rosa Bengal elongáta_, named from the foliage being more elongate than the other common roses. It grows and flowers freely, petals large, colour light red, very distinguishable from any of the other sorts.

No. 5. _Rosa belle Chinese_, is a beautiful French rose, and blooms in great abundance; flowers large and double, colour when first expanded pink, and changes to crimson, making a striking appearance, and greatly admired.

No. 6. _Rosa la tendere japonica_, an erect growing rose, of a handsome purple colour, with large petals; much like the garden velvet rose.

No. 7. _Rosa belle vibert_, does not produce so large flowers as the three last mentioned; but they are very double, blooming abundantly in the latter part of summer; colour very dark, and by some called the Black China Rose.

No. 8. _Rosa odoràta_, or Tea-rose, celebrated in this country for its fragrance being similar to fine Hyson tea. It justly deserves the preference of all the China roses, for the delicacy of its flavour. The flowers are a cream coloured blush, the petals round and full, forming a very large rose; when full blown, it is pendulous. It will withstand the winter of the middle states with a little protection, such as straw, box, or barrel; requires very rich light soil.

No. 9. _Rosa Florence_, or Scarlet-tea. This rose partakes of the fragrance of No. 8, is perfectly hardy, grows freely, and flowers profusely. The flower is well formed, very double, and a distinct variety from any that we know. The flower is lightest when first expanded.

No. 10. _Rose, Purple-tea._ We have not found how this name has originated: but when the plant known in our collections under that name is compared, there is no difference between it and No. 9.