Part 11

Having given the names and characters of a few herbaceous plants, all or most of them easily obtained, many of them extremely handsome, and such as agree best with transplanting at this season of the year; for several others, such as _Pæònias_, or any other strong fibrous or bulbous sorts, see _September_ and _October_. Where they are in pots, they can be planted at any time, the weather permitting, provided the ball of earth is not broken. But where they are only to be removed, the best time is just as vegetation commences. That herbaceous plants may look to the best advantage, and flower well, they must not be allowed to get into large stools; but as soon as they are above one foot in diameter, they should be divided.

Very frequently those who perform this operation, take the spade, and cut a piece off all round, which to a degree improves the look of the plant; but this is only half justice. It should be lifted entirely, fresh soil given, or removed a few feet, and planted a little deeper than it was before, as the plant tends apparently to grow out of the soil when allowed to stand long. If the weather becomes dry shortly after transplanting, give them a few waterings, until they have taken fresh roots, which will be within two weeks. Colour should be diversified through the garden as much as practicable, and the highest growing sorts planted farthest from the walk, so as all may appear in view. At all times avoid crowding the plants together.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

About the middle of this month, let the covering of tan, saw-dust, or decayed leaves, be cleared from the beds of such as were directed to be covered in November; afterwards carefully stirring the surface among them with a kind of wooden spatula, or wedge, breaking the surface fine; then dress all the alleys smooth and neat with the hoe and rake, clearing away every particle of litter. When the leaves of Tulips are expanding, they frequently become entangled so much, that the force of growth breaks the foliage: if there are any appearance of this at any time, they should be set right with the hand. In early seasons these roots will be far advanced, and perhaps one night of frost unexpectedly might materially injure them. When there is any suspicion of cold weather, hoops should be spanned across the beds, so that the necessary mats or canvass could in a few minutes be placed over them, to ward off danger. Protect the finest sorts from heavy drenching rains, and give them small neat rods for support, as they grow up. If the rods and tyings are painted green, the effect will be improved. These directions equally apply to _Narcissus_, _Jonquils_, _Iris_, and all Holland bulbs.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, PRIMROSES, &c.

Which have been protected by frames through the winter, must have at all favourable opportunities plenty of air admitted to them by lifting the sashes, and in fine mild days and nights, the sashes may be taken entirely off. Divest them of all decayed leaves, and stir up the earth on the surface of the pots; those that are intended to be planted in the garden may be set to one side, while those that are to be kept in pots must be more strictly attended to. Of these the Pinks and Carnations should be repotted about the first of the month. Those that have been kept in four inch pots, should be put into pots of seven inches, and those that are in five inch pots may be put into eight inch. Give a gentle watering after repotting. Pinks do not require the pots so large, but the same treatment in every other respect. Where the extremity of the leaves are decayed, cut them off, with any other decayed leaves: the pots must be well drained with shivers or fine gravel. Give them plenty of air, otherwise they will be weak in growth.

_Primroses_ require only a little fresh earth on the top of the pots. _Daisies_ may be planted out in shady situations; the sun destroys them during summer if exposed.

AURICULAS.

These beautiful and highly interesting plants are, to a great degree, neglected in our collections. It cannot be from want of beauty or fragrance that they have not attracted our attention, for they are exquisite in both. We are rather inclined to think that those who have them do not give them the treatment they require yearly to perfect their bloom. They should now have the surface earth taken off about half an inch down, and fresh soil added, which will cause them to put out fresh fibres about the upper part of the roots, and greatly increase their growth. The frame in which they are placed should now face the east, as the sun will be too strong for them; and about the end of the month turn it to the north. The glass of the frame may be white-washed, which will partially shade them from the sun, that being their delight. Give them water sparingly until they begin to grow, and never water them over the foliage previous to flowering, as water injures that fine mealy-like substance found on many of the sorts, and which so greatly improves their beauty. Defend them, therefore, from rain and high winds. To have them flower strongly, only one flower stem should be allowed to grow. The first one that shows is generally the best. At all events leave the strongest, and cut off all the others, or only nip off the flower pips, which answers the same end. Never keep the sash off during night, lest it should rain before morning.

RANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE.

The frames must have plenty of air, and give frequent sprinklings of water. The sashes or boards should be taken entirely off every mild day, and in fine nights leave them exposed to the dew; stir up the earth amongst them, breaking it fine, making all neat. They require liberal supplies of water after they begin to grow.

ROSES.

This is the most favourable month for planting all kinds of garden roses, which must be done as soon as the weather opens, and the ground in a proper state. The earlier in the month they flower the more perfect they will be. Never delay planting when there is an opportunity; for if delayed until the leaves are expanding, the bloom will be much weakened, and the probability is there will be no flowers, and the plants meet with a premature death. It has been said, "there is a particular advantage in planting some every ten days, even to the middle of May; for the flowering of them may be retarded in this way, and the bloom of these delightful shrubs continue for a much longer period." One moment's reflection will convince us, that nature, while in her own element, will not be retarded, suppose there was no danger of instantaneous death to the plants. The artificial means that might be judiciously adopted, with which we are acquainted, to keep back the blooming of hardy plants, is to lift them as soon in spring as is practicable, put them in boxes of earth, and then place them in the driest part of an icehouse until the desired time of planting, which may be delayed as long as the required time of flowering. This will be found a true method of retarding the flowering of roses especially, and not going counter to the rules and principles of nature. There are many beautiful varieties of the garden rose in cultivation, the names of the finest of which we will give in the Catalogue, but perhaps it may be proper to mention here a few of the most particular sorts. The finest unquestionably when in bloom, is the _Moss_ and its varieties, but the flowering is of so limited duration, that it is in a great degree surpassed by others. There is said to be a striped variety of the _Moss Rose_, but we do not credit it. The _Blush Moss_, _Clinton White Moss_, and _Mottled Moss_, at present certainly are the most superb of that kind. _Lee's Crimson Perpetual_ is a magnificent rose, and flowers in profusion from June to October. This is considered, and justly too, the finest of all the garden roses; its fragrance is exquisite, and the plant highly valued. There is a striped _Unique Rose_, and a _Rosa tricolor_, which are much thought of. We have mentioned these as the finest we have seen, but amongst two thousand cultivated varieties of the garden rose, there must be many of equal beauty. Of _Rósa spinosíssima_ there are above three hundred varieties; _R. gàllica_; two hundred; _R. centifòlia_, one hundred and fifty; _R. damascène_, above one hundred; _R. álba_, fifty; _R. rubiginósa_, thirty; and of various sorts above eleven hundred. In several individual collections of Europe, there are cultivated above fifteen hundred species, sub-species, and varieties.

When planted, they are too frequently crowded indiscriminately amongst other shrubs, which prevents them having the effect they would have if planted singly or grouped. They vary in size in different sorts from one to ten feet. When planted in the latter method, they should be assimilated in size of leaves and manner of growth, with the greatest variation of flower; or if planted in many small patches, giving each a distinct colour, which has a picturesque effect. An other desirable and fanciful method, is to plant them in figures, giving them edgings of wire, willow, or any other substitute, in imitation of basket work, which is called "baskets of roses;" the ground enclosed in the basket margin to be made convex, which will present a greater surface to the eye; the strong shoots to be layered, or kept down by pegs into the ground, having the points of the shoots only to appear above the soil, which should be covered with moss. With this treatment, in a few years the whole surface of the basket will be covered with rose buds and leaves, of one or various sorts. If two or three of the larger growing sorts are taken, such as _Moss_ or _Provins_, they may be trained so as to cover a surface of several square yards. One of these covered with _Lee's Crimson Perpetual Rose_, would be one of the greatest ornaments of the Flower-garden.

A modern invention in the cultivation of the rose is, to grow them in shape of trees, by budding on strong growing kinds at different heights from the ground, according to taste, and the purposes intended. They will form in a few years handsome round heads, which will flower more freely than by layers, or trained on their own stalk. They are particularly desirable amongst low shrubs. When planted, they should be well supported by strong rods, to prevent the wind from destroying them. If any of the roots have been bruised in lifting, cut off the bruised part with the knife, and likewise shorten the young shoots; breaking the earth well about their roots when planting. This has been an esteemed shrub among all civilized nations. The flowers are double, semi-double, and single; the colours are pink, red, purple, white, yellow, and striped, with almost every shade and mixture; the odour universally grateful. This plant is cultivated in every garden, from the humblest cottager to the loftiest prince, and by commercial gardeners in Europe extensively, for distilling rose water, and making the essential oil of roses. They delight in a rich loamy soil, and require plenty of moisture while in a growing state. Those sorts which throw up numerous suckers should be lifted every three or four years, reduced, and then transplanted. When thus removing them, avoid as much as possible exposing their roots; and when newly planted, mulching is of considerable advantage; that is, putting half rotten stable-manure on the surface of the ground round their roots, which prevents evaporation, and keeps up a constant moisture. If this was done in general to our roses in dry seasons, it would greatly improve their flowering. For China roses see next month.

CLIMBING ROSES.

This is the best time to prune ever-blooming climbing roses, such as _Champney_, _Scarlet Cluster_, _Duchesse de Dino_, _Notsette_, _Burgenville_, &c. Many of these, when allowed to grow year after year without pruning, become unsightly; they never bear flowers on the old wood, that is, wood of three or four years. Having a tendency to throw out young shoots from the bottom of the stem, the old wood should be cut out, thus encouraging the young wood, which the second year bears the most and finest flowers. In severe winters, the extremities of the shoots are frequently killed, and we have often seen all the wood black or brown, and apparently dead. When that is the case it is best to leave it until they begin to grow, which will show what is dead or alive, when they can be pruned to better advantage.

DECIDUOUS ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING SHRUBS.

The earlier the planting of these shrubs is attended to in this month, the more will their growth and flowering be promoted, having all finished before the buds begin to expand. (For kinds recommended see List, end of the volume.) They should never be planted too thick, but leave space for them to grow as they respectively require, and according as they are designed for open or close shrubberies, clumps, or thickets. Have all in readiness, that it may be done with as much expedition as possible, to prevent their roots from being dried by the sun and wind in time of planting. Make the holes intended for their reception round, capacious, and deep enough to hold their roots, without confining them in the least, and loosen the bottom well, putting new and fresh soil under their roots, breaking and pulverizing it during the operation, and frequently shaking the plant as you progress in filling up. When done, make all firm with the foot, leaving a circular cavity to hold the water they will require during dry weather. Give rods, and tie with bands all that need that support before they are left, lest they should be neglected. Cut off any of the bruised roots or irregular growths of the branches.

GRASS PLATS AND WALKS.

Rake and sweep off from these all litter and worm cast earth, and give an occasional rolling to settle the ground, and render the surface smooth, where the scythe is to be used. The grass will likewise grow better by rolling it where the frost has partially thrown it out, and add greatly to the beauty of the whole. Cut the edgings with an edging iron or spade, so that the whole will have a finished appearance. If any new turf is required to be laid down, this is a very good time to do it, before vegetation is strong; as the turf that is now laid will have taken root before the dry season commences. Where a great extent is to be done, sowing might be adopted; but it will not have the effect of turf under three years, and during that time must be carefully cut, after the first season, every three weeks, while growing, nor must it be walked upon. White clover and true perennial rye-grass are the seeds most proper for sowing. The ground must in the first place be all equally made up, and levelled with the spade and rake; not "cart loads of soil laid down and leveled," which would finally become very uneven, and would need to be lifted and relaid next year. The best turf is that of a close growing pasture or common, free from all kinds of weeds or strong roots, and the grass short. To cut it expeditiously, be provided with a turfing-iron; but if that cannot be conveniently had, a spade may do very well. Strain a line tight, cutting the turf lengthways, at equal distances, from twelve to eighteen inches. Next draw the line across, cutting from one and a half to two feet; then cut them up with the spade, about one and a half inch thick. In laying, join them close and alternately; when done, beat them firm with a level wooden beater, and roll with a heavy roller.

Grass walks, in the last century, were very popular; but time having put them to the test, they are found unfit for walking upon or using in any manner, almost for one half of the year; therefore not answering the purposes intended. They require great attention to keep them in order; and if not always neat and clean, they are a disagreeable object in a garden; but when they are well dressed, their effect is very enlivening. Where they are desired, prepare the ground as above directed; making the walk a little higher than the adjoining borders, to prevent the earth from being washed on it by the rain. Allowing the walks to be six feet wide, make the centre five inches higher than the sides, or about seven-eighths of an inch to the foot whatever the breadth may be, which will form a gentle declivity to throw off the rain. When laid, beat and roll it well; cutting the edge neat and even. Water frequently if the weather sets in dry. To keep grass walks or plats in order, they should be mown once every three or four weeks from May to September, and the grass each time swept clean off. When the grass is allowed to get long before being cut, the roots become tender; and die when exposed to the sun; at last the grass is all in spots, and in another year requires to be relaid.

GRAVEL WALKS.

A practice once existed of turning these into heaps or ridges during winter to destroy weeds, &c. But this has almost been given up as unnecessary, unsightly, inconvenient, and not doing any material service.

Where the surface of these has become foul, irregular, or mossy, they had better be turned over four or five inches deep where the gravel will admit of it; but if not, hoe and rake them perfectly clean, give a new coat of gravel, and pick up any stones that you think too large; then give them a good rolling, applying it frequently after showers of rain. When they are well attended to just now, they will look well all the season; but if neglected, they take more labour, and are never in such good condition.

Fancy edgings of _Thyme_, _Thrift_, _Gentiana_, _Lavender_, and _Violets_--(_Daisies_ may be used if the situation is shaded.) The whole of these may be planted by the line with the dibber except _Thyme_, which lay as directed for _Box_. See this month, under that head. Any time in this or beginning of next month will answer to make edgings of these; and if dry weather occurs before they begin to grow after planting, they must have frequent waterings until they have taken fresh root. Thyme requires to be dressed twice during the season to keep it in order.

OF GRAFTING.

There are four methods of grafting. The one we will describe is _whip_ or _tongue grafting_, which is the preferable and most expeditious plan with all deciduous shrubs or trees. The stock upon which it is performed must be slender, from two-thirds of an inch to any diameter suitable to the thickness of the graft. Having headed the stock at a clear smooth part, slope it on one side with a sharp knife at a very acute angle, make a slit on the lower side of the slope about an inch downwards, to receive the tongue or wedge of the graft or scion. Secondly, having the prepared scions cut into lengths of 3, 4, or 5 eyes, take one which matches the stock in size, and slope the bottom of it so as to fit the stock, that the rinds of both may correspond exactly, especially on one side and at bottom; make also a slit upward in the graft, like that in the slope of the stock, so as the one may be inserted in the other as evenly and completely as possible. Let the graft be carefully held in its due position, while a bandage is applied. Take strands of Russian mat, and bind them in a neat manner several times round the stock and graft. Lastly, cover the joint with well worked clay, coat from half an inch below the bottom of the graft to an inch above the top of the stock, and to the thickness of half an inch all round, finish it in an oblong globular form, taking care to work it close, that no air may penetrate. If the clay is covered with moss, it will partially prevent it from cracking.

The grafts will have taken when they begin to grow freely; then the clay may be taken off, and the bandage loosened, and put on again, but not so tight; give the grafts a stake for support, tying them thereto to prevent accidents from the wind. Allow no shoots to arise from the stock.

Any of the rare deciduous trees may, by the above method, be grafted on one of its own family, that is more common, and in that respect is the finest species of propagation that is resorted to.

=Rooms.=

_MARCH._

If the plants in these situations have been properly attended to by admitting air at all favourable times, and when the apartment was below 36° a little fire heat applied to counteract the cold, keeping the heat above that degree; your attention will be rewarded by the healthy appearance of your plants. The weather by this time has generally become milder, so that air may be more freely admitted, especially from ten to three o'clock. Where the leaves are grown to one side, turn the plant with the dark side to the light. They will require a more liberal supply of water, but always avoid keeping them wet. Pick off all decayed leaves, and tie up any straggling shoots; stir up the earth on the top of the pots, breaking it fine where it is hardened by the frequent waterings. This will allow the fresh air to act upon the roots, which is one of the principal assistants in vegetation. For those that require shifting or repotting, see _Green-house_, _March_; the plants enumerated there equally apply here, if they are in the collection, with this difference, that well kept rooms are about two weeks earlier than the Green-house. After the end of this month, where there is a convenience, plants will do better in windows that look to the east, in which the direct rays of a hot sun are prevented from falling upon them, and the morning sun is more congenial for plants in this country than the afternoon sun. Where there is any dust on the leaves of any of them, take a sponge and water, and make the whole clean, likewise divest them of all insects. The green-fly is perhaps on the roses; if there are no conveniences for fumigating, wash them off as previously directed. Where there are only a few plants, these pests could be very easily kept off by examining the plants every day. For the scaly insect, see _January_. If they have not been cleared off, get it done directly; for by the heat of the weather they will increase tenfold.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

_Hyacinths_, _Tulips_, _Narcissus_, _Jonquils_, and _Crocus_, will be generally in flower. The former requires plenty of water, and the saucers under the pots should be constantly full until they are done blooming. The others need only be liberally supplied at the surface of the pot. Give them neat green-painted rods to support their flower stems, and keep them all near the light. The spring flowering _Oxalis_ will not open except it is exposed to the full rays of the sun. The _Lachenàlia_ is greatly improved in colour with exposure to the sun, though when in flower its beauties are preserved by keeping it a little in the shade.

_Prímulas_, or Primrose, both Chinese and European, delight in an airy exposure; but the sun destroys the beauty of their flowers by making the colours fade.

_Caméllias._ Many of them will be in perfection. See Green-house this month for a description of the finest varieties. Do not let the sun shine upon the blooms. Those that are done flowering, will, in small pots, require to be repotted. The _Cálla_ or Æthopian water-lily, when in flower, ought to stand in saucers with water.

The Hyacinths that are in glasses must be regularly supplied with water. The roots will be very much reduced by this method; therefore, when the bloom is over, if possible plant them in the garden, or bury them in pots of earth, to ripen and strengthen the bulbs. They will take two years with good encouragement, before they can satisfactorily be again flowered in glasses, and properly they ought not be allowed to bloom next year. Those that are done flowering in pots, can be set aside, and the usual waterings gradually withdrawn. Treat all other Dutch bulbs in a similar manner.

=Hot-House.=

_APRIL._